Acknowledgement has to be made to Anders Bolinder for unstinted assistance in the compiling of these notes. He has made available a considerable amount of material from his own archives and offered suggestions from his vast fund of mountaineering knowledge. Tsunemichi Ikeda has taken time away from editing Iwa-to-Yuki to supply me with information and corrections with regard to Japanese mountaineering activity. John Cleare has shed a good deal of light on the Jugal Himal, having himself made extensive surveys of the region.
Yet I cannot claim these lists are complete, for there are many ascents of the smaller peaks that have gone unrecorded. Also, I have not been able to check all ascents listed where contact with the climbers was not possible.
To avoid more confusion on heights and names of peaks, I have taken both mainly from those used on Mountaineering Maps of the World (Japan, 1977) Langtang-Ganesh Himal Sheet, which is a synthesis of previous maps. The long-awaited ‘Schneider’ Map to this area will be welcomed by mountaineers when it is completed. Until this map appears all heights should be considered provisional. The discerning reader will see from these lists which peaks have yet to be climbed.
Abbreviations:
AAJ – American Alpine Journal
AJ – Alpine Journal
GJ – Geographical Journal
HJ – Himalayan Journal
ITY – Iwa-to-Yuki
MW – Mountain World
NZZ – Neue Ziircher Zeitung (Swiss newspaper)
Chronological List of Mountaineering Attempts on Shishapangma and the Area to the North-West (Phuriphu Himal), South-West (Langtang Himal), and South (Jugal Himal)[1]
1921
Shishapangma (8,012 metres/26,291 feet)
Reconnaissance from the north-north-east (Lungchen La, c. 17,700 feet) about 30 miles away, by Major H.T. Moorshead and his survey team during the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance Expedition. He also sighted Shishapangma from the east with A.F.R. Wollaston.
Ref: Mount Everest the Reconnaissance (Arnold, 1922), p. 322
A.F.R. Wollaston Letters and Diaries (Cambridge, 1933), p. 229
1945
Phuriphu Himal – Langtang Himal
Reconnaissance from the east and north-east (Kyirong) by P. Aufschnaiter and H. Harrer during their escape from India to Lhasa.
Shishapangma
Reconnaissance from the north-west (Charkyu Pass, c. 16,000 feet)
Ref: HJ, 1947, pp. 116–20
Seven Years in Tibet: Heinrich Harrer (Hart-Davis, 1953)
1949
Langtang
First mountaineering expedition – British. Leader H.W. Tilman with P. Lloyd, O. Polumn (botanist), J.S. Scott (geologist) and four Sherpas. They surveyed the Langtang Glacier during which they reached the col on the main divide at 5,670 metres – Tilman’s Col. The survey and the climbing was limited by the monsoon but they found that the origin of the Langtang Valley and Glacier was much further north than was indicated on the Survey of India map. They failed to locate Shishapangma because of the monsoon cloud.
Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
An attempt made from the north failed to locate a route.
Ganchempo (6,387 metres) (Fluted Peak)
Attempt via West Ridge abandoned at c. 5,900 metres
Ref: Nepal Himalaya: H.W. Tilman (Cambridge, 1952)
AJ, May 1950, pp. 305–12
GJ, December 1950, pp. 172–82
1950
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Reconnaissance from the east by Aufschnaiter (from Kong Tso Lake) about six miles distant. He published an invaluable sketch map of the whole area in 1954.
Ref: Les Alpes, 1959, pp. 194–9
1952
Langtang – Hagen’s Col (c. 20,000 feet)
Toni Hagen visited the Langtang Glacier during the autumn and the col at c. 20,000 feet on the frontier overlooking the Nyanang Phu Glacier and the South-West Face of Shishapangma, four miles away. He published the first topographical sketch map of the area the following year.
Ref: NZZ No. 583, 14.3.53 with sketch map
Les Alpes, Nos. 5, 6, 7 and 11, 1956, pp. 165–6 and Les Alpes, 1959. pp. 194–9: photographs of Shishapangma
To the Third Pole: G.O. Dyhrenfurth (Werner Laurie, 1955) pp. 156–8: Ref. photograph of Shishapangma, Plate 26
1955
Jugal Himal – Gyalzen Peak (6,151 metres)
First Ascent: British. Route: south side from Phurbi Chyachu Glacier, 11 May. The first expedition to the Jugal Himal and the first to climb a peak in either the Langtang or the Jugal; this was the first all-women’s Himalayan Expedition: Monica Jackson and Elizabeth Stark (reached the summit with two Sherpas, Mingma Gyalzen – whom the peak was named after – and Ang Temba); Evelyn Camrass, the third member and doctor, supported the ascent up to the last camp (5).
Ref: AJ, May 1956, pp. 60–62 (Monica Jackson)
HJ, 1955–6, pp. 75–81 (Elizabeth Stark)
Tents in the Clouds: Monica Jackson (Collins, 1956)
Langtang Himal – Langtang Ri (7,239 metres)
Attempt and reconnaissance by the Swiss Raymond Lambert (leader) and Belgian Jules Détry. Gave up because of dangerous ice cliffs and cornices.
Pemthang Karpo Ri (Dôme Blanc) (6,830 metres)
First Ascent: After gaining the South-East Ridge from the south, Lambert, Ang Norbu, Pasang and Kami Tsering climbed the ridge to the summit on 13 May.
Ref: Chronique Himalayenne – Supplément, 1963, pp. 454–9 by Marcel Kurz
1957
Jugal Himal – Lenpo Gang (7,083 metres) (Big White Peak)
Attempt from the south (Phurbi Chyachu Glacier) by a British party from the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club – including Capt Crosby-Fox (leader), George Spenceley (dep. leader), Don Jones (doctor), Arthur Tallon, Maurice Wilson and W.J. Anderson. The leader and two Sherpas were killed when avalanched near their Camp 4 at 5,650 metres on 30 April. One week later the doctor dislocated his shoulder and Lakpa Tsering broke his leg near Camp 1. Surveying work was carried out.
Ref: AJ, May 1958, p. 131, also pp. 105–6
Mountain Craft, 1958, No. 38, pp. 2–7
Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club Journal VIII, No. 29, 1958, pp. 211–331
1958
Jugal Himal – Lenpo Gang (7,083 metres) (Big White Peak)
Reconnaissance of the south and south-east side by Japanese Kyuya Fukata, Takehide Kazami, Yuichiro Yamakawa and Kazuyoshi Kohara. This expedition discovered the existence of Autschnaiter’s map and brought it back to Japan.
Ref: Editor, ITY
1959
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
This, the highest peak of the Langtang Himal, has gone under several different names, notably Gangchen Lebrub (local name), Dayabhang (Survey of India maps) and Luri Himal (Nepal-China Boundary Atlas published in Peking).
Ref: AJ, November 1964, pp. 287–8 – a note by Aufschnaiter on the naming of Langtang and Langtang Lirung
Attempt made by Japanese in the autumn via East Ridge by Iida Alpine Club of Japan
Ref: HJ, 1974/5, p. 48
AJ, 1979, pp. 232–3
Langtang Himal
Confusion has surrounded the Iida Alpine Club of Japan party’s claims to have climbed Shalbachum with a height of 6,700 metres after their Langtang Lirung attempt. G.O. Dyhrenfurth has attempted to clear up this confusion. He points out that their Shalbachum should, according to the ridge lines on the sketches, be identical with Aufschnaiter’s Phrul Rangjen Ri (6,918 metres), which it now is on the Japanese map (1977) referred to throughout this chronology. Dyhrenfurth continues his investigation: ‘However, in the panorama from Gangja La in Sangaku (1960, pp. 94–5) the name Shalbachum is attributed to the foresummit (6,702 metres) of Kyungka Ri (6,979 metres). This contradiction between map and picture was not made any easier by correspondence.’
So it remains uncertain which summit the Japanese climbers Hojo, Terahata and their Sherpas, Dawa Thondup and Pasang Temba reached. Dyhrenfurth suggests it could be the foresummit but he cannot be certain. This discrepancy came to light with the Italian Expedition to the area in 1963 who climbed Kyungka Ri.
The Japanese claimed it was a second ascent of their Shalbachum. For further information see references.
Ref: Himalaya Chronik, 1963, 1964, 1965
Sangaku, ACJJ, vol. 55, 1960, etc.
1960 Everest
Climbed by the Chinese from the north. Leader: Shih Chan-Chun. An important milestone in the climbing of the Himalaya from the north.
Jugal Himal – Lenpo Gang (7,083 metres) (Big White Peak)
Attempt by Japanese abandoned at 6,800 metres (Camp 5).
Jugal Himal – Madiya Peak (6,800 metres) (named by Japanese; it means ‘Central’). First Ascent: 29 days after arriving at Base Camp and establishing five camps, Kunitoshi Ishihara, Yukihiko Kato and the Sherpas, Pasang Phutal and Chotare reached the summit on 7 May. Ishihara took useful panorama photograph printed in Sangaku (1961) showing the south-west side of Shishapangma and the surrounding peaks of the Upper Nyanam Phu Glacier.
Jugal Himal – Gyalzen Peak (6,151 metres)
Second Ascent: Via the South-West Ridge from the col between Gyalzen and Madiya Peak. The summit was reached by Kanenori Haruta, Tsuneoh Inagaki and the Sherpa Dawa Thondup.
Ref: Sangaku, JACJ, vol. 56, 1962, pp. 7–8
Editor, ITY
1961
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Attempt up the East Ridge by Japanese in the spring met with disaster – two Japanese died, the leader Kaichi Morimoto and Kenji Oshima, with Sherpa Gyaltsen Norbu in an avalanche. Gyaltsen Norbu was the only Sherpa at the time to have climbed two 8,000-metre peaks – Makalu and Manaslu. The attempt was abandoned at 6,500 metres on the East Ridge.
Ref: HJ, 1961, p. 192
AJ, 1979, pp. 232–3
Sangaku, JACJ, vol. 57, 1963, pp. 13–15
Jugal Himal – Lenpo Gang (7,083 metres) (Big White Peak)
Attempt by the Japanese, who got to 7,050 metres. The 13 members were from the All Japan Mountaineering Federation. They then climbed two other peaks:
Gyalzen Peak (6,151 metres)
Third Ascent: By the leader, Tokujiro Kajimoto, Hiroaki Bamba with five Sherpas.
Gumasi Peak (6,100 metres)
This peak is situated on the ridge between Ladies Peak (6,000 metres) and Phurbi Chyachu (6,658 metres). The name means ‘round’ in Nepali. Ascent (first?) by Tetsuya Nomura and Takayasu Yamada.
Ref: AJ, November 1961, p. 390
Sangaku, vols. 5, 7, 1963, pp. 15–17
MW, 1964/5, p. 194
Editor, ITY
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Reconnaissance: The first officially acknowledged Chinese reconnaissance took place in the spring, beginning in March. The second reconnaissance was in the autumn from September to October. See text of this book and references given. This peak was now the last 8,000-metre summit unclimbed.
1962
Langtang Himal
A mixed British team visited the area in the spring, led by Lord Glentworth, and including Alfred Gregory and Charles Wylie.
PT (17,750 feet)
First Ascent: Peak west of Shalbachum (Phrul Rangjen) Glacier, on the ridge descending the Yansa Tsenjl (Dragpochhe Ri) (6,543 metres)
Tsergo Ri (4,850m) (North of Jatang)
Climbed by the women members of the expedition and Sherpa Sirdar.
Langshisha Ri (6,300 metres)
A circuit was made around this peak.
Col (19,250 feet) was reached near the head of the Langtang Glacier, and on the frontier ridge where they had good views of Shishapangma.
Goldum (6,447 metres) (Japanese give 6,947 metres)
Attempted by its north ridge to 6,100 metres; bad snow conditions prevented further progress. This peak is only four miles from Shishapangma.
Tilman’s Col (5,670 metres)
Was reached by the women via the Langtang Glacier.
Ref: AJ, November 1963, p. 291
Mountaineering (BMC Journal), September 1962, pp. 9–10
Jugal Himal – Lenpo Gang (7,083 metres) (Big White Peak)
First Ascent: Sieged by the Japanese from Phurbi Chachu Glacier, across the South Ridge of Madiya Peak to the upper Dorje Lakpa Glacier Basin, on to and up the East-North-East Ridge of Lenpo Gang to its summit on 3 May. 1st Team: Tadashi Morita and Kazunari Yasuhisa; 2nd: Makoto Takashima and Yukihiko Katoh; 3rd: Dr Ishida and Mitsuru Nakano, Masahito Akiyama, both on 5 May. The leader was Akira Takahashi. The route was long and difficult, involving aid climbing near the summit. This was the third time the Japanese had been to this peak.
Ref: HJ, 1964, pp. 43–50, article and photograph of Shishapangma South-West Face
AAJ, 1963, p. 520
Sangaku, 1963, pp. 7–9
1963
Shishapangma (8,012m)
Third Reconnaissance: By Chinese and reported to have reached 7,160 metres via the Yabukangala Glacier on the north side.
Ref: See text of this book and references
Langtang Himal – Langtang II Chenge Liru (6,571 metres)
First Ascent: By Canadian Peter Taylor and Pasang Phutar III (Sirdar). Pasang Sherpa went to the top later the same day – 28 May. The ascent from the east had been completed during a total of 19 days’ return journey from Kathmandu. The peak is on the ridge west of Langtang Lirung and above the village of Syabrubensi.
Ref: HJ, 1964, pp. 69–76
From Cooper’s Creek to Langtang II: Peter Taylor
(Messrs Rigby Ltd, Adelaide)
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Attempt by Italians from Turin Section of CAI during post-monsoon. Whilst attempting the East Ridge from the Lirung Glacier, Giorgio Rossi and C. Volante fell at 6,000 metres, probably because of rockfall. Rossi died immediately and Volante died a few days later at Base Camp.
Langtang Himal – Citta di Torino (6,702 metres)
First or Second Ascents? Corradino Robbi and Andrea Mellano reached the top of this foresummit of Kyungka Ri (6,979 metres) on 28 October and then went to the main summit without doubt. The Japanese argue that they were not the first up Kyungka Ri.
Ref: La Scarpone, 16.10.1963, 16.11.1963, 16.12.1963
Sangaku, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1965
Himalaya Chronik, 1963, 1964, 1965
1964
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
First Ascent: Chinese. See text of this book and references below for this first ascent of Shishapangma via the north side.
Ref China’s Sports, 1964, No. 4
High Mountain Peaks in China, pp. 19–25
Mountaineering in China (China Publications Centre) Chapter on the ‘Conquest of Mount Shishapangma’
A Photographic Record of the Shishapangma Scientific Expedition (Scientific Press, Peking, 1966)
AJ, 1964, pp. 211–16
Bergsteiger, January 1973, pp. 54–5 – Article by Eduard Sternbach Is Shishapangma climbed?
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Attempt by Japanese from Osaka City University via the East Ridge failed at 18,850 feet, as it was too steep. They did climb two other peaks:
Urkinmang (6,151 metres) (Buddha Peak)
First Ascent: ‘Which is located at the south part of the Langtang Glacier (Tunga Glacier), Kiyohara, Ban, Jokei and a Sherpa climbed to the summit on 5 May from South Face.’
Kyungka Ri (6,979m)
Second Ascent: ‘Kondo, Sasaki and a Sherpa reached the summit on 8 May from the Eastern Glacier.’ They claim a first ascent but Italians had been there in 1963 without doubt.
Ref: AJ, 1965, p. 464
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Attempt in the autumn by Peter Taylor and party, but after climbing up to c. 6,700 metres from the west, they gave up through difficulties and lack of experience of the Sherpas and with bad weather approaching.
Ref: AJ, 1979, p. 233
AAJ, 1965, p. 465
Langtang Himal – Pemthang Karpo Ri (6,830 metres) (Dôme Blanc)
Second Ascent: The Japanese Hiroaki Tamura reached the summit via the SW slopes, leaving his two Sherpas, Jangbu and Pemba, at the foot of the final ridge on 22 October.
Jugal Himal – Dorje Lakpa (6,989 metres)
An attempt by an Anglo-Swiss party, consisting of Anthony, Lord Shaftesbury and Swiss Guides Arci Giroud, Michel Darbellay and Michel Rey. They went up the Trupaiku Glacier and along the West Ridge to c. 6,100 metres and gave up through heavy snowfall and shortage of time.
Ref: AAJ, pp. 464–5, also for:
Langtang Himal – Ganchempo (6,387 metres) (Fluted Peak) Attempted by Darbellay and Rey, who were stopped by snowfalls c. 200 metres from the summit.
1965
Langtang Himal – Dôme Blanc (6,830 metres)
Attempted by two Japanese – Ikuo Saeki and Tokumi Yamaguchi – who retreated from high point of 6,000 metres.
Ref: AAJ, 1966, p. 191
1966
Langtang Himal
Royal Nepalese Botanical Survey Team visited Langtang Valley with Mr and Mrs A.D. Schilling and David Sayers.
Ref: See Journal of Royal Horticultural Society, May 1969, Part 5, pp. 222–32
There was a ban put upon mountaineering in Nepal by the Government during the latter half of the 1960s.
1970
Langtang Himal – Yala Peak (5,400 metres) (exact position unknown)
Ascent during October by a party of 17 clients guided by Anderl Ernst and organized by Sporthaus Schuster.
Ref: AAJ, 1971, p. 438
1971
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Ascent – unconfirmed and unofficial – by solo American climber.
Langtang Himal — Ganchempo (Fluted Peak) (6,387 metres)
Attempted by American-Swiss party under the leadership of D. Taylor.
Unconfirmed reports of husband and wife team climbing this peak in 1971.
Ref: HJ, 1971, p. 362
Himal – Langtang Ri (7,239 metres)
Attempt abandoned at c.6,000 metres due to faulty kerosene stoves on the South-East Ridge.
Ref: Sangaku, JACJ, vol. 67, 1972, pp. 18–19
Langtang Himal – Urkinmang (6,151 metres) Buddha Peak (Baudha Peak)
Various unofficial ascents claimed by a US/Rhodesian/New Zealand party and another by a Swiss party.
1972
Langtang Himal – Urkinmang (6,151 metres) (Buddha Peak)
Second Ascent: South Africans – mentioned in AAJ, 1975, p. 201
1973
Langtang Himal – Langshisha Ri (6,300 metres)
Japanese reconnaissance, during which three died on the Langtang Glacier when struck by avalanche.
Ref: HJ, 1980-81, p. 48
Editor, ITY
1974
Langtang Himal – Urkinmang (6,151 metres)
Ascent: Americans Judy Rearick, Larry Derby and Matthew Wells, climbing the West Ridge and using fixed ropes on a 600-foot rock band at 18,000 feet.
Ref: AAJ, 1975, p. 201
1975
Jugal Himal
Mario Fantin of the CAI reports in the AAJ, 1976, p. 518, that ‘Carla Maverna and Irene Affentranger climbed Jugal Himal in October’. There is no peak called Jugal Himal, only the range of which the Nepalese Government did not allow climbing at that time.
1976
Jugal Himal – Nyakanga (5,846 metres)
Unofficial ascent of this peak on Nepalese Trekking list. Many small peaks are often climbed unofficially and no first ascent claims can be entirely reliable.
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
First Ascent: Joint Nepalese/Japanese – nine-man Osaka City University and four-man Nepalese Tribbuvan University. The route was up the East Ridge from the Lirung Glacier (the same route as attempted by Japanese in 1961 and 1964). The summit was reached on 24 October by Seishi Wada and Pemba Tsering.
Ref: AAJ, 1979, p. 269
ITY, No. 67, p. 145
Chinese to Allow Foreigners to Climb on Everest
For the first time since the Communist Government took control, foreign climbers were invited to climb in China. An announcement was made in the New China News Agency permitting a joint Chinese/Iranian expedition to the North Side of Everest during 1978 or 1979. Fifteen Iranian and 20 Chinese climbers carried out a reconnaissance up to 24,600 feet (21 May) on the North Ridge of Everest in 1978. Although the main expedition planned for 1979 was cancelled because of the revolution in Iran, other expeditions were invited into China.
1979
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Reconnaissance to Base Camp on the north side by the Germans Manfred Abelein, Fritz Zintl and Gunther Sturm, to prepare for their expedition in 1980.
1980
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Second Ascent: Via Chinese route up northern side by the German Alpine Club’s Mountain and Ski School. Leaders – Dr Manfred Abelein and Gunther Sturm with Manfred Sturm, Fritz Zintl, Michel Dacher, Otto Wiedemann, Sigi Hupfauer, Dr Wolfgang Schaffert and Erich Reismüller. On 7 May, Dacher, Schaffert, G. Sturm and Zintl reached the summit followed by Hupfauer and M. Sturm on 12 May.
North Face:
Attempt by Dacher, G. Sturm and Zintl, but ran into heavy snow and out of time at 24,600 feet on this difficult Face.
PT (7,150 metres):
Ascent made of a peak (7,150 metres) west of Shishapangma and descent on skis down its north slope on 16 May.
Ref: AAJ, 1981, pp. 307–9
Shishapangma: Manfred Abelein (Lübbe, 1981)
Shishapangma (8,012m)
Third Ascent: Via Chinese route to about 7,000 metres, then further east than previously to the North-East (Summit) Ridge. The expedition came from Austria (Naturfreunde), led by Dr Paul Alf with Thaddäus Dowbenka, Roman Findl, Egon Obojes, Karl Ölmüller, Kurt Pokos and Ewald Putz. Putz and Obojes reached the summit on 13 October. Further attempts were called off due to the accident of the leader, Alf.
Ref: Der Naturfreund, Vienna, Heft 2, 1981
AAJ, 1981, p. 309
Jugal Himal – Dorje Lakpa (6,989 metres)
First Ascent: Unofficial but confirmed to have taken place in the spring via the West Ridge ‘which was not too difficult’. Old fixed ropes were found on the ridge.
Jugal Himal – Kanshurm (6,078 metres)
First Ascent: Via East Ridge from Tilman’s Pass West of Dorje Lakpa. Unofficial but confirmed.
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Attempt on unclimbed 12,000 foot South Face by Michael Searle (Organizer), Mike Stead, Nick Groves, John Marjot, Dr Neil Harding-Roberts, Rod Mackenzie (all British), Shana Parent (Canadian) and Sarki Tsering (Sherpa). The attempt was abandoned more than 3,000 feet from the top on 3 May after climbing a steep rock buttress.
Ref: HJ, 1980-81, pp. 40–48
AAJ, 1981, p. 257
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Second Ascent: First via South-East Ridge, by the six-man free-style Climbing Club party from Tokyo, all reached the summit on 26 October: Iwao Ohtsuka (leader), Tokuo Watanabe, Yutaka Nagai, Shigeki Hirosawa, Gen’ichi Tate, Yasuji Horie.
Ref: ITY, No. 81, p. 171
1981
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Fourth Ascent: And via Chinese Route by Women’s Climbing Club of Japan. The members were Junko Tabei, the leader (Everest Summiter) Setsuko Kitamura, Yoko Mihara, Yoshiko Kato, Keiko Tsurube, Yumiko Kurosawa, Yuko Kuramatsu, Etsuko Otsuki and Noriko Watanabe. Junko Tabei ‘with two Chinese assistants’ reached the summit on 30 April.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, p. 287
ITY, No. 88, pp. 181–2
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Fifth Ascent: And via the Chinese Route by the South-Tyroleans – Reinhold Messner (leader) and Friedl Mutschlechner who reached the summit on 28 May. Other members were the Germans, Dr Oswald Ölz and Gerd Baur. This expedition may have first attempted the difficult North Face, but no further details forthcoming.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, p. 287
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Attempt on the original route by Americans was defeated by a combination of heavy snowfall and enormous avalanches in September and high winds in October.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, pp. 287–8
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
An attempt on the original route by some of the American Everest Kangshung Face Expedition was defeated by strong winds and a retreat was made from the high point at 23,400 feet on 2 November. Team members were Geoffrey C. Tabin, George Lowe, Lou Reichardt, Eric Perlman and James Morrissey.
Shishapangma Group – Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen) (7,703 metres)
First Ascent: And ‘via the Yambukangola Glacier to the east of Shishapangma across the Face of Shishapangma between the North Face and the North Peak, across snow fields to the west of Shishapangma to Molamenqing’.
The following members of this New Zealand Expedition reached the summit: Bruce Farmer, Dick Price (14 May), Warwick Anderson, Ron McLeod (16 May), Geoff Gabites, Bruce Clark, Paul Chapman and Tony Charlton (20 May). Also in the team were Mai Lapwood and Ben Noble. The route was non-technical, but logistics were stretched and all load carrying was done by the team.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, p. 288
To the Untouched Mountain: Warwick Anderson (Reed Ltd, NZ, 1983)
Jugal Himal – Dorje Lakpa (6,989 metres)
Second Ascent (First Official): Via the West Ridge. The members of this joint Nepalese/Japanese Expedition were Pemba Tsering, Kazumari Murakami, Eiichi Shingyoji, Kunioh Kataoka and Makoto Anbe, who reached the summit on 18 October. The other member, Tomohiro Uchimura, being tired, stopped a hundred metres short of the top.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, p. 221
ITY, No. 88, p. 188
Langtang Himal – Langshisha Ri (6,300 metres)
Attempt via South Ridge of this virgin peak. This joint Nepalese/Japanese Expedition was led by Isao Yamazaki. Two members reached 19,300 feet on 9 October, but gave up as the ridge was too difficult for them.
Ref. AAJ, 1982, p. 221
Langtang Himal – Langtang Lirung (7,246 metres)
Third Ascent: Second via South-East Ridge.
This expedition from the Gumma Workers’ Alpine Federation of Japan consisted of Hajime Abe and Sirdar Ang Phuri Lama, who reached the top on 26 April, and Yasutoshi Kimura, Haroda Tomokai and Mikio Arai who reached the summit 28 April.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, pp. 221–2
ITY, No. 88, p. 188
Langtang Himal – Langtang Ri (7,239 metres)
First Ascent: And via South Ridge by joint Nepalese/Japanese Expedition led by Hideyuki Uematsu. The following reached the summit: Noboru Yamada, Makihiro Wakao, Soichi Nasu, Ang Rinji Sherpa on 10 October; Minoru Iizawa and Isashi Nakaoto on 11 October.
Ref: AAJ, 1982, p. 223
ITY, No. 88, p. 188
1982
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Sixth Ascent: First Ascent via South-West Face and First Ascent Overall by Alpine style. British climbers Roger Baxter-Jones, Alex MacIntyre and Doug Scott climbed the Face from the Nyanang Phu Glacier in three days to the summit on 28 May. Descent was down the South-East Ridge to c. 24,000 feet, then down the South-West Face (half-mile south-east of ascent route) to a camp by the glacier on 29 May, where a fourth member, Nick Prescott was waiting in support. The other members of the team, Elaine Brook and Paul Braithwaite had departed for home.
Shishapangma Group – Pungpa Ri[2] (7,445 metres)
First Ascent: Via South-West Couloir and South-West Ridge by Alpine style. Baxter-Jones, MacIntyre and Scott climbed this peak, really the South-West Shoulder of Shishapangma, after two bivouacs, arriving at the summit on 19 May and descending the same day by route of ascent.
Ref: Text of this book.
Shishapangma Group – Porong Ri (7,284 metres)
First Ascent: Via North Ridge by 14-man Japanese party. Tohru Itoh led the expedition of whom Minoru, Wada and Yukioh Etoh reached the summit on 17 May. ‘Wada fell in the descent and has been missing.’
Ref: ITY, No. 90, p. 98
Phuriphu Himal – Gang Ben Chen (7,281 metres)
First Ascents: By 13-man Kyoto University party from Japan. Climbed up the North Face to the top on 21 April by eight members, two other members reached top on 22 April.
Ref: ITY, No. 90, p. 98
Sangaku, December 1983, pp. 9–10
Shishapangma (8,012 metres)
Seventh Ascent: Via Chinese Route. Seven-man expedition led by Makoto Hara, MD, climbed the peak in Alpine style. M. Tonnta started from ABC at 5,700 metres at 3 p.m. on 10 October and reached the summit at 5.40 p.m. on the 12th; M. Ohmiya and T. Chiba started from ABC on the 9th and reached the summit at the same time as Tomita. Leader Hara, H. Komamiya and H. Konishi started from ABC on the 7th and reached the summit on the 10th. This is claimed as the second Japanese ascent by Alpine style to an 8,000-metre peak but there had been several attempts: ‘Members randomly rushed on the moderate snow slopes. The summit bids failed three times at 7,400 metres, 7,600 metres, and 7,700 metres, in early October’. No further details are available regarding camps and supplies left on the mountain by these earlier attempts, but clearly acclimatization opened the way for rapid climbing.
Ref: ITY, No. 93, p. 111
1. Peter Aufschnaiter recommended that the area be designated Jugal Himal and Langtang Himal (after Langtang Village) for the rest of these mountains. This would overcome the complication of names for ‘Phuriphu’ that have appeared in Chinese publications e.g. ‘Pekhu’ Himal, ‘Peikukangri Mountain Range’ and more recently ‘Pinyin Himal’. Aufschnaiter first wrote Langtrang on his maps but later changed this to Langtang after checking local dialects.[back]
2. This name appears on Aufschnaiter’s original sketch map but not the one subsequently published. We are grateful to Anders Bolinder for making the original available.[back]