Chapter 4: Suggested New Mexico Itineraries

You may already have an idea of how you want to spend your time in New Mexico—power shopping, perhaps, or time-traveling through ancient cultures. But if you’re not sure what to do, here are four suggested itineraries, outlined in 1-week and 2-week segments. For each one, I assume that you’re starting in Albuquerque, either by driving in your own car or flying into the Albuquerque International Sunport, the air transportation hub of the state, and then renting a car.

New Mexico has a mix of museums and indoor activities, but the real attractions here are the living culture and spectacular scenery en route. With this in mind, I’ve combined scenic drives with city stays in these tours. In order to get a true sense of this place, take your time—linger at a cafe or wander a plaza for an hour. You might be surprised at how easily you get enveloped into the experience of being a New Mexican.

The Regions in Brief

North-Central New Mexico The most highly populated and well-traveled area of the state, north-central New Mexico roughly includes the cities of Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Taos. It’s also the economic center of New Mexico. In this portion of the state, lush mountains seem to rise directly out of the parched plateaus that have made New Mexico’s landscape famous. Temperatures are generally lower in this area than they are in the rest of the state, and skiing is one of the most popular winter activities in both Santa Fe and Taos.

Northwestern New Mexico Head to this region if you’re interested in Native American culture. Sandstone bluffs here mark the homes of Pueblo, Navajo, and Apache Indians, in an area once inhabited by the ancestral Puebloans (also known as Anasazi) of the past. My favorite places to visit in this section of the state are Acoma Pueblo, Chaco Culture National Historical Park, and Aztec Ruins National Monument. A major portion of the northwestern region is part of a Navajo reservation, the largest in the country. This is also the gateway to the famous Four Corners region. The town of Grants, near Acoma, offers a glimpse into uranium mining. Railroad fanatics, hikers, hunters, and fishers should make a trip to Chama, home of the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad and a popular starting point for outdoor adventures.

Northeastern New Mexico Covering the area north of I-40 and east of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, northeastern New Mexico is prairie land once inhabited or visited by some of the West’s most legendary gunslingers. Towns to visit for a bit of Wild West history are Cimarron and Las Vegas. The northeastern portion of the state also includes attractions such as Fort Union National Monument, a portion of the Santa Fe Trail, Kiowa and Rita Blanca National Grasslands, and Capulin Volcano National Monument. Due to its abundance of state parks and wildlife reserves, as well as the fact that it borders the ski resort towns of Angel Fire, Taos, Red River, and Santa Fe, this region is an excellent area for sports enthusiasts.

Southwestern New Mexico This region, like northeastern New Mexico, is another great place to visit if you’re interested in the history of the Wild West and Native American culture, as it was once home to Billy the Kid and Geronimo. The Rio Grande, lifeline to this part of the state, acts as a border between the southwestern and southeastern portions of the state. Attractions west of the river include Gila National Forest, once home to the Mogollon Indians, whose past is preserved in the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. The Chiricahua Apaches, a tribe once led by Geronimo, also lived in this area. The town of Silver City, which survives as an economic center of this area, was once a booming mining town. Surrounding ghost towns weren’t as lucky. Las Cruces, at the foot of the Organ Mountains, is the state’s second largest city, and Truth or Consequences, named for a television and radio game show, offers abundant hot springs.

Southeastern New Mexico Bounded on the west by the Rio Grande, to the north by I-40, and to the east by Texas, southeastern New Mexico is home to two of the most interesting natural wonders in this part of the country: Carlsbad Caverns and White Sands National Monument. The underground caverns, filled with stalactites and stalagmites, are infinitely interesting and hauntingly beautiful. Snow-white dunes at White Sands National Monument, which rise out of the desert landscape, are an extraordinary sight as you make the drive to Alamogordo. White Sands is a great place to camp out and watch the sunrise. This portion of the state is yet another former home of Billy the Kid. It’s also where he died. Southeastern New Mexico has something of a controversial past as well: The world’s first atomic bomb was detonated here.

Culture Cruising: Northern New Mexico in a Week

New Mexico is a big state. Covering it all in 1 week would only wear a traveler out. That’s why I’ve relegated this tour to the northern part, which has the highest concentration of sights. You can gaze at ancient petroglyphs etched on stone at the Petroglyph National Monument, shop one of the world’s top art markets on Canyon Road in Santa Fe, marvel at the play of light on the Rio Grande Gorge in Taos—and even take a white-water rafting trip if you choose. You can do this trip during any season, though the warmer months offer the mildest climate and the most options.

Suggested New Mexico Itineraries

Days 1–2: Albuquerque

If you have some energy left after traveling, head to Old Town, where you can wander through the plaza and peruse some shops. Be sure to tuck into some of the back alleyways and little nooks—you’ll uncover some of the city’s most inventive shops in these areas. Next, head over to the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History to get a good sense of this land’s story. Finish the day with one of New Mexico’s premier treats—an enchilada at Mary & Tito’s.

Start out your second day in Albuquerque at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, where you’ll get a sense of the cultures you’ll encounter up north, and then head to the Albuquerque Biological Park, both in the vicinity of Old Town Plaza. From here, go west of town to visit the Petroglyph National Monument. If it’s summer, you may want to go during the cooler early morning. In the late afternoon, find your way to Central Avenue, just south of Old Town, and drive east on Route 66. This takes you right through downtown, to the Nob Hill district and the Sandia Mountains foothills, respectively. Finish your day with a ride up the Sandia Peak Tramway. Ideally, you should ride up during daylight and back down at night for a view of the city lights. You may even want to dine at the top.

Day 3: The Turquoise Trail ★★ & Santa Fe

Today, strike out for the ghost towns and other sights along the Turquoise Trail to Santa Fe, stopping to peruse some of the galleries in Madrid. This will put you in Santa Fe in time to do some sightseeing. Head straight to the plaza, the New Mexico History Museum & the Palace of the Governors, and St. Francis Cathedral. If you shop from the Native Americans selling under the portal, be sure to ask about the art you buy; the symbols on it may have interesting significance. Next, make your way over to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Finish your day with an enchilada at the Shed. In the evening, depending on the season, you may want to check out Santa Fe’s excellent arts scene; try the Santa Fe Opera or the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival.

Day 4: Santa Fe Arts

In the morning, head up to Museum Hill, where you can take your pick from four unique museums: the Museum of International Folk Art, the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art. You can have lunch at the Museum Hill Café. On your way back to the plaza, take a stroll and do some shopping on Canyon Road. At sunset during the warmer months, you can enjoy a cocktail at the bell tower of the historic La Fonda Hotel. Eat dinner at Santacafé —or if you lingered over your shopping, stop in at Geronimo or the Compound on Canyon Road.

Day 5: Bandelier National Monument ★★★ & North to Taos

Head out of town today to Bandelier National Monument. Explore the ruins and be sure to climb the ladders to see the kiva set high above the canyon floor. Then continue north to Taos. On your way into the city, stop at the San Francisco de Asis church. And if you like music, head out to the Sagebrush Inn for some country-and-western or rock dancing.

Day 6: Taos Pueblo ★★★

Spend your morning exploring Taos Pueblo, the Millicent Rogers Museum, and the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. You can then ditch your car for the afternoon and step out on foot. Do some shopping around Taos Plaza. At cocktail hour, head to the Adobe Bar at the Historic Taos Inn or the Anaconda Bar at the new El Monte Sagrado.

Day 7: The High Road ★★

On your last day, enjoy a leisurely morning and then head south on the High Road to Taos. Be sure to spend some time at the Santuario de Chimayo, where you can rub healing dust between your fingers. You may want to spend the night at a bed-and-breakfast in Chimayo or have lunch at Rancho de Chimayo along the way. Depending on your flight time the next morning, stay the night in Santa Fe or Albuquerque.

New Mexico in 2 Weeks

If you have 2 weeks to spend exploring the region, consider yourself fortunate. You’ll not only be able to hit the highlights in the north, but you’ll also be able to spend time getting to know such places as Chaco National Cultural Park, White Sands National Monument, and Carlsbad Caverns National Park. This trip is fun any time of year. In winter, the north will be cold and the south will be cool. In the warmer months, the north will be warm and the south very hot.

Days 1–4: Albuquerque & Santa Fe

For days 1 through 4, follow those days as outlined in the previous itinerary, “Culture Cruising: Northern New Mexico in a Week.”

Day 5: The High Road ★★

Today, travel the High Road to Taos, stopping at the little galleries and art studios along the way. Be sure to rub healing dust between your fingers at Santuario de Chimayo. On the way into Taos, visit the San Francisco de Asis Church. If you like nightlife, head out to the Sagebrush Inn to dance to country-and-western or rock music or to the Anaconda Bar to hear some jazz or other music.

Day 6: Taos

Spend the morning at Taos Pueblo. Next head over to the Millicent Rogers Museum and the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. During the afternoon, do some shopping around the Taos Plaza and then visit the Taos Art Museum. At cocktail hour, head to the Adobe Bar at the Historic Taos Inn.

Day 7: Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad ★★

This morning, get up early and head west on a scenic drive to Chama, where you can spend the day riding the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Be sure to check departure times for the train and make reservations in advance. Spend the night in Chama.

Day 8: Chaco Culture National Historic Park ★★★

From Chama, drive across the Jicarilla Apache Indian Reservation on NM 537 to Chaco Culture National Historical Park. Though it’s a long and dusty drive, Chaco’s combination of stunning setting and expansive ruins makes the day worthwhile. In fact, Chaco is the Holy Grail for Southwest history buffs. If you have camping equipment, spend the night at Chaco. If not, stay the night in Grants.

Day 9: Acoma Pueblo ★★★

Head east on I-40 to Acoma Pueblo. Upon arrival, spend some time in the pueblo’s 40,000-square-foot museum to get a sense of the culture before taking the bus to the top of Sky City. Next, head south on NM 117, one of the state’s prettiest drives, to El Malpais, where you can stretch your legs on a short or long hike. Continue south through Quemado, then turn east, and drive to Magdalena, where you can stop for a meal at Magdalena Café & Steakhouse. This is a long drive, so you’ll need a refresher. Spend the night in Socorro, or continue south to San Antonio, where you can stay at the Casa Blanca B&B.

Day 10: Birds & Lava

If it’s wintertime, wake up before dawn today and head out to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, where you can watch thousands of cranes and snow geese take flight. (Even if it’s not winter—when thousands of cranes and geese fill the sky—you can still tour the refuge to see birds and wildlife.) From the refuge, head east on US 380 to the Valley of Fires Recreation Area, an amazing lava field, where you can stretch your legs before lunch. Your next stop is Carrizozo to feast on a green-chile cheeseburger at the Outpost. Next, you’ll want to make your way east along the Lincoln Loop to Lincoln, where you can visit the Lincoln State Monument and walk in the footsteps of Billy the Kid. Spend the night in Lincoln or Ruidoso.

Day 11: Ruidoso

If you like to hike, stop at the Lincoln National Forest Ranger Station for directions to the many trails in the area. Otherwise, you may want to shop a little. If it’s winter, you can ski at Ski Apache. Or, if you have an interest in horses, head over to the Hubbard Museum of the American West and then take in some horse racing at Ruidoso Downs. Spend the night in Ruidoso, and if you feel like splurging, stay at the Inn of the Mountain Gods. Even if you don’t stay there, you may want to drive to the inn for an evening stroll around the lake and a little throw of the dice in its casino.

Day 12: White Sands National Monument ★★★

This day takes you southwest out of Ruidoso through the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation on US 70 to Alamogordo. Here, you’ll visit the New Mexico Museum of Space History and one of the stars of this trip: White Sands National Monument. Spend the night in Alamogordo.

Day 13: Carlsbad Caverns National Park ★★★

Strike out early for Cloudcroft, a darling mountain town where you can stretch your legs and have breakfast at The Lodge at Cloudcroft . Spend the rest of the morning driving to Carlsbad and have lunch in the town itself. If you like zoos, you may want to visit the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park, but be sure to save energy for your afternoon. Head south to the most spectacular sight in New Mexico, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, where you want to walk down into the cave, rather than ride the elevator (trust me). End your day by strolling along the water at the river walk, or if it’s summertime, by relaxing at your hotel pool.

Day 14: Alien Sightings

Spend your last day on a long cruise north to Albuquerque. Take US 285 to Roswell, where you can feed your X-Files fantasies at the International UFO Museum and Research Center. History buffs may want to detour to Fort Sumner to see Billy the Kid’s grave, but more importantly to see the tragedy presented at Fort Sumner State Monument. If you choose this option, stop for a bite afterward at Joe’s in Santa Rosa. In Albuquerque, you can finish the trip with a delicious meal at Jennifer James 101.

New Mexico for Families in a Week

Although it’s wonderful, northern New Mexico is not the most suitable vacationland for kids—unless they have a precocious interest in history and architecture. Some hearts are better suited to Wild West action and natural wonders than gourmet food and history, and those kinds of attractions mainly reside in the state’s southern half. If you prefer a more active vacation, this 1-week trip is for you, whatever your age. The climate in this region is fairly mild, but summers in the south can be quite hot. Tip: Parents who are first-time visitors to New Mexico may want to trade the day 1 and day 2 schedules for a trip north to Santa Fe (see chapter 7) to take in the cultural sights there. You can then shoot down I-25 and resume the itinerary in Socorro on the evening of day 2.

Day 1: Albuquerque

On your first day, head to Old Town, where you can wander the plaza, peruse some shops, and head over to the Explora. Next, visit the Albuquerque Biological Park. Be sure to check out the Biological Park’s butterfly exhibit. Or, you may want to visit the Rio Grande Zoo. Don’t miss the polar bears there. Finish the day with one of New Mexico’s premier treats—an enchilada at Mary & Tito’s . If you have any energy left, ride the Sandia Peak Tramway in time to watch the sunset.

Day 2: Acoma Pueblo ★★★

You’ll cover a lot of ground this day, so head out early. Drive west about 70 miles to Acoma Pueblo, taking time to see the museum there before you ride the bus up to Sky City. Next, head south on NM 117 to El Malpais , where you can stretch your legs on a short hike. Continue south through Quemado, then turn east, and drive to Magdalena, where you can stop for a snack or meal at Magdalena Café & Steak House. Spend the night in Socorro or continue south to San Antonio, where you can stay at Casa Blanca B&B.

Day 3: Birds & Bears

On day 3, if it’s wintertime, wake before dawn and head out to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. Even though it’s early for kids, they’re usually amazed to see thousands of cranes and snow geese take flight, and hear the air fill with their calls. (Even if it’s not winter—when thousands of cranes and geese fill the sky—you can still tour the refuge to see birds and wildlife, and take a hike to a high point to view the scene from above.) From the refuge, head east on US 380 to the Valley of Fires Recreation Area, an amazing lava field. Your next stop is Carrizozo to feast on a green-chile cheeseburger at the Outpost. Continue east to Capitan and Smokey Bear Historical State Park. Farther east along the Lincoln Loop, stop at the Lincoln State Monument. Spend the night in Lincoln or Ruidoso.

Day 4: Ruidoso

This morning, if you like to hike, head to the Lincoln National Forest Ranger Station for directions to the many trails in the area. Otherwise, you may want to shop a little. If it’s winter, you can ski at Ski Apache. Or, if your kids have any interest in horses, head over to the Hubbard Museum of the American West. In the evening, check out the Flying J Ranch for a chuck-wagon dinner and an Old West show. Spend the night in Ruidoso.

Day 5: White Sands National Monument ★★★

This day takes you southwest out of Ruidoso through the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation on US 70 to Alamogordo. Here, you’ll visit the New Mexico Museum of Space History and one of the stars of this trip: White Sands National Monument. Spend the night in Alamogordo.

Day 6: Carlsbad Caverns National Park ★★★

Strike out early for Cloudcroft, a darling mountain town where you can stretch your legs and have breakfast at The Lodge at Cloudcroft . Spend the rest of the morning driving to Carlsbad and have lunch in the town itself. If you like zoos, you may want to visit the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park, but be sure to save energy for your afternoon. Head south to the most spectacular sight in New Mexico, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, where you want to walk down into the cave, rather than ride the elevator (trust me). End your day by strolling along the water at the river walk, or if it’s summertime, by relaxing at your hotel pool.

Day 7: Alien Sightings at Roswell

Spend your last day on a long cruise north to Albuquerque. Take US 285 to Roswell, where your kids can stock up on little-green-men stickers and see the International UFO Museum and Research Center. History buffs may want to detour to Fort Sumner to see Billy the Kid’s grave and the tragedy presented at Fort Sumner State Monument. If you take this option, stop for a bite afterward at Joe’s in Santa Rosa.

An Active Tour Of New Mexico in 2 Weeks

Anyone who skis, hikes, mountain bikes, or rafts knows that the Southwest is unsurpassed in its offerings for outdoor enthusiasts. New Mexico is no exception. This trip is for the road-warrior type of sportsperson. It takes in New Mexico’s full sphere of terrain, from the Rocky Mountains in the north to the desert of White Sands in the South and the caves at Carlsbad. Be aware that the region is known for its mercurial weather conditions—always be prepared for extremes. Also, northern New Mexico is over 6,000 feet in elevation, so it may take you time to catch your breath. Be patient on those long upward hills. The sports you do will, of course, depend a lot on the season. For the full benefit of this trip, take it in late March or early April. With a little advance preparation, you might be able to ski and river raft on the same trip!

Days 1–2: Albuquerque

When you arrive in Albuquerque, you may want to get acclimated to the city by strolling through Old Town. Next, visit the Albuquerque Biological Park to get a sense of the nature in the area and the Pueblo Cultural Center to get acquainted with the culture you’ll encounter as you head north.

On day 2, for a truly unique experience, you may want to schedule a balloon ride. Tip: Make reservations for this activity in advance, especially because you fly first thing in the morning. If you’re a bike rider or hiker, head to Petroglyph National Monument for a ride or hike to see thousands of symbols etched on stone. In the evening, ride the Sandia Peak Tramway and do a little hiking along the crest. If you’d like, you can have dinner at the top and view the city lights as you come down.

Day 3: The Turquoise Trail ★★ to Santa Fe

On day 3, head for the ghost towns and other sights along the Turquoise Trail to Santa Fe. If you like to ride horses, schedule a ride in Cerrillos with Broken Saddle Riding Company. This will put you in Santa Fe in time to do some late-afternoon sightseeing. Head straight to the plaza, the New Mexico History Museum & the Palace of the Governors, and St. Francis Cathedral. Have an enchilada at The Shed.

Day 4: Santa Fe

Either use your own bike or rent a cruiser in town to ride around the plaza and up Canyon Road. Stop at the top of Canyon at the Randall Davey Audubon Center to do some bird-watching. Or, you may want to head to the mountains to do some hiking on the Aspen Vista Trail or, if it’s winter, some skiing at Ski Santa Fe. Finish your day at one of the fun restaurants or cafes on Canyon Road. In the evening, depending on the season, you may want to take in some of Santa Fe’s excellent arts, such as the Santa Fe Opera or the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival.

Day 5: Bandelier National Monument ★★★

Head out from Santa Fe to Bandelier National Monument and hike among ancient ruins. Follow the Frijoles Trail as far up as you’d like, making sure you stop to climb the ladders to the kiva perched high on the canyon wall. Trail runners like to jog the Frijoles Trail, with its easy descent back to the start. Next, follow the Rio Grande River north and you’ll come to Taos. On the way into town, stop at the San Francisco de Asis church. Spend the evening strolling around the Taos plaza to get a feel of the city.

Day 6: Taos

Sports lovers have many options in this town. If you like to ride horses, take a ride on Taos Pueblo land. Or, you may want to take a llama trek into the Rio Grande Gorge, or hike up to the top of Wheeler Peak, New Mexico’s highest, a full-day trek. If it’s ski season, you’ll definitely want to spend the day at Taos Ski Valley. If it’s spring and the rivers are running, take either the full-day, heart-throbbing romp through the Taos Box, or a half-day trip at Pilar.

Day 7: The High Road ★★★

Take a leisurely drive south toward Santa Fe. You’ll want to take the High Road through the art villages of Cordova and Chimayo. Stop at the Santuario de Chimayo and have lunch on the patio at Rancho de Chimayo. Spend the night in Albuquerque.

Day 8: Acoma Pueblo ★★★

Head east on Interstate 40 to Acoma Pueblo and spend some time in its 40,000-square-foot museum to get a sense of the area’s culture before taking the bus to the top of Sky City. You may want to eat at Acoma or in Grants because dining options are few for the rest of the day. Next, head south on NM 117, one of the state’s prettiest drives, to El Malpais , where you’ll see great views and some wonderful history. Continue south through Quemado and Reserve to the Catwalk National Recreation Trail, where you’ll stretch your legs on an easy hike. Then make your way to Silver City to spend the night. Have dinner at Diane’s Bakery & Cafe.

Day 9: Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument ★★★

Before you head out of town this morning, pick up supplies for a picnic. This day takes you deep into the Gila Wilderness to see the ruins at Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. After you’ve toured the ruins, head up the Middle Fork Trail; the trail head is near the cliff dwellings. The trail follows the Gila River through the wilderness and offers some lovely picnic spots along the way. As you return to town, take a detour through Pinos Altos and stop for dinner at the Buckhorn Saloon & Opera House. Return to Silver City, where you’ll spend the night.

Day 10: White Sands National Monument ★★★

This day takes you southeast, with a quick stop at City of Rocks State Park to see lovely rock formations. Have lunch in Las Cruces at one of the restaurants in the vicinity of Old Mesilla, a lovely plaza where you can shop and stroll. In the afternoon, drive northeast on US 70 to White Sands National Monument, where you’ll want to spend the late afternoon and early evening. For the night, head to the Lodge at Cloudcroft.

Day 11: Cloudcroft

Today, get ready to burn some calories as you hike or bike the Sacramento Mountains around Cloudcroft. The Rim Trail , which offers views out across White Sands, is considered one of the top bike trails in the United States. Or choose one of the excellent hiking trails in the area. Spend the night in Cloudcroft.

Day 12: Carlsbad Caverns National Park ★★★

Head east to Carlsbad to visit the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park. Have lunch in Carlsbad and then drive out to the most spectacular sight in New Mexico, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, where you want to walk down into the cave, rather than ride the elevator. If you’re a serious spelunker, arrange in advance for one of the special tours. End your day at the river walk, where you can swim and pedal paddleboats, or at your hotel pool.

Day 13: Aliens & Billy the Kid

Take US 285 to Roswell, where you can decide for yourself whether or not aliens landed there in the 1940s. Visit the International UFO Museum and Research Center. From there, head west to Lincoln State Monument. Spend the night there at Ellis Store and Co. Country Inn or the Wortley Hotel.

Day 14: North to Albuquerque

Spend a leisurely morning enjoying the quiet village of Lincoln. Then go west to Capitan, where you can learn about the history of forest fire prevention at Smokey Bear Historical State Park. Have lunch in Carrizozo, where you can feast on a green-chile cheeseburger at the Outpost. Continue west to see the Valley of Fires Recreation Area, an amazing lava field. Then drive to San Antonio to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, arriving in time to see the birds fly in to the lakes after a day in the fields. This takes place in winter at dusk, but there are still plenty of birds to see at other times of year. Finally, head north to Albuquerque, where you can cool down in the pool for the evening and have an enchilada before you catch your plane home.