Chapter 7: Santa Fe

A city of 72,000 people living 7,000 feet above sea level, Santa Fe, nicknamed “The City Different,” is an exotic and sophisticated place. The Native Americans enlighten the area with viewpoints and lifestyles deeply tied to nature and completely contrary to the American norm. Many of the Hispanics here still live within extended families and practice a devout Catholicism; they bring a slower pace to the city and an appreciation for deep-rooted ties. Meanwhile, a strong cosmopolitan element contributes cutting-edge cuisine, world-class opera, first-run art films, and some of the finest artwork in the world, seen easily while wandering on foot from gallery to gallery, museum to museum.

The city’s history is told through its architecture. For its first 2 centuries, it was constructed mainly of adobe bricks. When the U.S. took over the territory from Mexico in 1846 and trade began flowing from the eastern states, new tools and materials began to change the face of the city. The old adobe took on brick facades and roof decoration in what became known as the Territorial style. But the flat roofs were retained so that the city never lost its unique, low profile, creating a sense of serenity found in no other U.S. city.

Bishop Jean Baptiste Lamy—the inspiration for the character of Bishop Latour in Willa Cather’s Death Comes for the Archbishop—built the French Romanesque St. Francis Cathedral shortly after he was appointed to head the diocese in 1851. Other structures still standing include what is claimed to be the oldest house in the United States. The San Miguel Mission is the oldest mission church in the country, while the state capitol, built in the circular form of a ceremonial Indian kiva, is among the newest in the U.S.

The city was originally named La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asis (the Royal City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis of Assisi) by its founder, Spanish governor Don Pedro de Peralta. He built the Palace of the Governors as his capitol on the central plaza; today it (and the attached New Mexico History Museum) tells the story of the region. It is one of the major attractions in the Southwest, and under its portico, Native Americans sell their crafts to eager travelers, as they have done for decades.

The plaza is the focus of numerous bustling art markets and Santa Fe’s early September fiesta, celebrated annually since 1770. The fiesta commemorates the time following the years of the Pueblo revolt, when Spanish governor Don Diego de Vargas reconquered the city in 1692. The plaza was also the terminus of the Santa Fe Trail from Missouri, and of the earlier Camino Real (Royal Rd.) from Mexico, when the city thrived on the wool and fur of the Chihuahua trade. Today, a central gazebo makes a fun venue for summer concerts.

What captures the eye most, though, is the city’s setting, backed by the rolling hills and the blue peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. In the summer, thunderheads build into giant swirling structures above those peaks and move over the city, dropping cool rain. In the winter, snow often covers the many flat-roofed adobe homes, creating a poetic abstraction that at every glance convinces you that the place itself is exotic art.

Orientation

Part of the charm of Santa Fe is that it’s so easy to get around. Like most cities of Hispanic origin, it was built around a parklike central plaza. Centuries-old adobe buildings and churches still line the narrow streets; many of them house shops, restaurants, art galleries, and museums.

Santa Fe sits high and dry at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo range. Santa Fe Baldy rises to more than 12,600 feet, a mere 12 miles northeast of the plaza. The city’s downtown straddles the Santa Fe River, a tiny tributary of the Rio Grande that is little more than a trickle for much of the year. North is the Española Valley and, about 70 miles beyond that, the village of Taos (see chapter 8). South are ancient Indian turquoise mines in the Cerrillos Hills; southwest is metropolitan Albuquerque, 58 miles away (see chapter 6). To the west, across the Caja del Rio Plateau, is the Rio Grande, and beyond that, the 11,000-foot Jemez Mountains and Valle Grande, an ancient and massive volcanic caldera. Native American pueblos dot the entire Rio Grande valley; they’re an hour’s drive in any direction.

Arriving

By Plane Many people choose to fly into the Albuquerque International Sunport. However, if you want to save time and don’t mind paying a bit more, you may be able to fly into the Santa Fe Municipal Airport (SAF; 505/955-2900; www.santafenm.gov), just outside the southwestern city limits on Airport Road. In conjunction with American Airlines, commuter flights are offered by American Eagle ( 800/433-7300; www.aa.com).

If you do fly into Albuquerque, you can rent a car or take one of the bus services. See “Getting There & Around,” in chapter 3, for details.

From the Santa Fe Municipal Airport, Roadrunner Shuttle ( 505/424-3367) meets every commercial flight and takes visitors anywhere in Santa Fe. From the Albuquerque Sunport to Santa Fe, Sandia Shuttle Express ( 888/775-5696 or 505/474-5696; www.sandiashuttle.com) runs shuttles daily from 8:45am to 10:45pm. New Mexico Rail Runner Express (see below) also runs to Santa Fe, with a shuttle bus taking travelers from the airport to the train.

By Train & Bus Daily train service from Albuquerque to Santa Fe is now provided by New Mexico Rail Runner Express ( 866/795-7245; www.nmrailrunner.com). For more information about train and bus service to Santa Fe, see “Getting There & Getting Around,” in chapter 3.

By Car I-25 skims past Santa Fe’s southern city limits, connecting it along one continuous highway from Billings, Montana, to El Paso, Texas. I-40, the state’s major east-west thoroughfare, which bisects Albuquerque, affords coast-to-coast access to Santa Fe. From the west, motorists leave I-40 in Albuquerque and take I-25 north; from the east, travelers exit I-40 at Clines Corners and continue 52 miles to Santa Fe on US 285. For those coming from the northwest, the most direct route is via Durango, Colorado, on US 160, entering Santa Fe on US 84.

For information on car rentals in Albuquerque, see “Getting Around” in chapter 3; for agencies in Santa Fe, see “Getting Around,” below.

Visitor Information

The Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau is located downtown at 201 W. Marcy St. (P.O. Box 909), Santa Fe, NM 87504-0909 ( 800/777-2489 or 505/955-6200). You can also log on to the bureau’s website, at www.santafe.org.

City Layout

Main Arteries & Streets The limits of downtown Santa Fe are demarcated on three sides by the horseshoe-shaped Paseo de Peralta and on the west by St. Francis Drive, otherwise known as US 84/285. Alameda Street follows the north side of the Santa Fe River through downtown, with the State Capitol and other government buildings on the south side of the river, and most buildings of historic and tourist interest on the north, east of Guadalupe Street.

The plaza is Santa Fe’s universally accepted point of orientation. Its four diagonal walkways meet at a central fountain, around which a strange and wonderful assortment of people of all ages, nationalities, and lifestyles can be found at nearly any hour of the day or night.

If you stand in the center of the plaza looking north, you’ll be gazing directly at the Palace of the Governors. In front of you is Palace Avenue; behind you, San Francisco Street. To your left is Lincoln Avenue, and to your right is Washington Avenue, which divides the downtown avenues into east and west. St. Francis Cathedral is the massive Romanesque structure a block east, down San Francisco Street. Alameda Street is 2 full blocks behind you.

Near the intersection of Alameda Street and Paseo de Peralta, you’ll find Canyon Road running east toward the mountains. Much of this street is one-way. The best way to see it is to walk up or down, taking time to explore shops and galleries and even have lunch or dinner.

Running to the southwest from the downtown area, beginning opposite the state office buildings on Galisteo Avenue, is Cerrillos Road. Once the main north-south highway connecting New Mexico’s state capital with its largest city, Albuquerque, it is now a 6-mile-long motel and fast-food strip. St. Francis Drive, which crosses Cerrillos Road 3 blocks south of Guadalupe Street, is a far less tawdry byway, linking Santa Fe with I-25, 4 miles southwest of downtown. The Old Pecos Trail, on the east side of the city, also joins downtown and the freeway. St. Michael’s Drive connects the three arteries.

Finding an Address The city’s layout makes it difficult to know exactly where to look for a particular address. It’s best to call ahead for directions.

Maps Free city and state maps can be obtained at tourist information offices. An excellent state highway map is published by the New Mexico Department of Tourism, 491 Old Santa Fe Trail, Lamy Building, Santa Fe, NM 87501 ( 800/733-6396 or 505/827-7400, www.newmexico.org; to receive a tourism guide call 800/777-2489). There’s also a Santa Fe visitor center in the same building. More specific county and city maps are available from the State Highway and Transportation Department, 1120 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87504 ( 505/827-5100). Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA), 1644 St. Michael’s Dr. ( 505/471-6620; www.aaa.com), can obtain free maps from the AAA office. Other good regional maps can be purchased at area bookstores.

Getting Around

The best way to see downtown Santa Fe is on foot. Free walking-tour maps are available at the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau, 201 W. Marcy St. ( 800/777-2489 or 505/955-6200), and several guided walking tours are listed later in this chapter.

By Bus

In 1993, Santa Fe opened Santa Fe Trails ( 505/955-2001; www.santafenm.gov), its first public bus system. There are seven routes, and visitors can pick up a map from the Convention and Visitors Bureau. Most buses operate Monday to Friday 6:30am to 9:30pm and Saturday 8am to 8pm. There is limited service on Sunday and holidays. Call for a current schedule and fare information. Be aware that the buses don’t always run on time.

By Car

Cars can be rented from any of the following firms in Santa Fe: Avis, Santa Fe Airport ( 505/471-5892); Budget, 1946 Cerrillos Rd. ( 505/984-1596); Enterprise, 4462 Cerrillos Rd. and 1611 St. Michael’s; ( 505/473-3600); and Hertz, Santa Fe Airport ( 505/471-7189).

If Santa Fe is merely your base for an extended driving exploration of New Mexico, be sure to give the vehicle you rent a thorough road check before starting out. There are a lot of wide-open desert and wilderness spaces here, so if you break down, you could be stranded for hours before someone passes by, and cellphones don’t tend to work in these remote areas.

Make sure your driver’s license and auto club membership (if you have one) are valid before you leave home. Check with your auto-insurance company to make sure you’re covered when out of state and/or when driving a rental car.

Note: In 2002, the Santa Fe City Council imposed a law prohibiting use of cellphones while driving within the city limits, with strict fines imposed. If you need to make a call, be sure to pull off the road or use a hands-free device.

Street parking is difficult to find during summer months. There’s a metered parking lot near the federal courthouse, 2 blocks north of the plaza; a city lot behind Santa Fe Village, a block south of the plaza; another city lot at Water and Sandoval streets, and one underneath the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. If you stop by the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau (see above), you can pick up a wallet-size guide to Santa Fe parking areas. The map shows both street and lot parking.

Unless otherwise posted, the speed limit on freeways is 75 mph; on most other two-lane open roads it’s 60 to 65 mph. The minimum age for drivers is 16. Seat belts are required for drivers and all passengers ages 5 and over; children 4 and under must use approved child seats.

Since Native American reservations enjoy a measure of self-rule, they can legally enforce certain designated laws. For instance, on the Navajo reservation, it is forbidden to transport alcoholic beverages, leave established roadways, or go without a seat belt. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. If you are caught breaking reservation laws, you are subject to reservation punishment—often stiff fines and, in some instances, detainment.

The State Highway and Transportation Department has a toll-free hot line ( 800/432-4269) that provides up-to-the-hour information on road closures and conditions.

Driving Warning

New Mexico has one of the highest per-capita rates of traffic deaths in the nation (mostly due to drunk driving). Although the number has been dropping in recent years, it’s still a good idea to drive carefully!

By Taxi

Cabs are difficult to flag from the street, but you can call for one. Expect to pay a standard fee of $3 for the service and an average of about $3 per mile. Capital City Cab ( 505/438-0000) is the main company in Santa Fe. On Friday and Saturday nights from 5:30pm to 2:30am, service is $5 for two people ($10 for three or more) anywhere within the city limits. This reduced cost service is provided between a bar, club, or restaurant and a person’s home, not from bar to bar.

By Bicycle

Riding a bicycle is a good way to get around town, though you’ll have to ride cautiously because there are few designated bike paths. Check with Mellow Velo, 638 Old Santa Fe Trail ( 505/982-8986; www.mellowvelo.com); Bike-N-Sport, 524 Cordova Rd. ( 505/820-0809; www.nmbikensport.com); or Santa Fe Mountain Sports, 1221 Flag Man Way ( 505/988-3337; www.santafemountainsports.com), for rentals.

Santa Fe

Airport See “Orientation.”

Area Code In 2007 New Mexico added a new area code. The northwestern section, including Santa Fe and Albuquerque, retained the 505 code, while the rest of the state changed to 575.

ATM Networks As in most U.S. destinations, ATMs are ubiquitous in the cities of New Mexico. However, in the small mountain towns, they’re scarce. ATMs are linked to a network that most likely includes your bank at home. Cirrus ( 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS ( 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) are the two most popular networks in the United States and in this region.

Babysitters Most hotels can arrange for sitters on request. Alternatively, call the professional, licensed sitter Linda Iverson ( 505/982-9327).

Business Hours Offices and stores are generally open Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm, with many stores also open Friday night, Saturday, and Sunday in the summer season. Most banks are open Monday to Thursday, 9am to 5pm, and Friday, 9am to 6pm. Some may also be open Saturday morning. Most branches have ATMs available 24 hours. Call establishments for specific hours.

Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” in chapter 3, and “Getting Around,” above.

Climate See “When to Go,” in chapter 3.

Currency Exchange You can exchange foreign currency at Wells Fargo for $5 at 241 Washington St. ( 505/984-0500).

Dentists Dr. Gilman Stenzhorn ( 505/982-4317 or 505/983-4491) offers emergency service. He’s located at 1496 St. Francis Dr., in the St. Francis Professional Center.

Doctors ABQ Health Partners, 465 St. Michaels Dr., Suite 101 ( 505/995-2400), is open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm. For physician and surgeon referral and information services, call the American Board of Medical Specialties ( 866/275-2267).

Emergencies For police, fire, or ambulance emergencies, dial 911.

Etiquette & Customs Certain rules of etiquette should be observed when visiting the pueblos. See chapter 6 for details.

Hospitals Christus St. Vincent Regional Medical Center, 455 St. Michaels Dr. ( 505/983-3361, or 505/995-3934 for emergency services; www.stvin.org), is a 248-bed regional health center. Patient services include urgent and emergency-room care and ambulatory surgery. Health services are also available at the Women’s Health Services Family Care and Counseling Center ( 505/988-8869; www.whssf.org). Ultimed, 707 Paseo de Peralta ( 505/989-8707; www.ultimed.com), an urgent-care facility near the plaza, offers comprehensive health care.

Hot Lines The following hot lines are available in Santa Fe: battered families ( 505/473-5200; www.esperanzashelter.org), poison control ( 800/432-6866), psychiatric emergencies ( 888/920-6333 or 505/820-6333), and sexual assault ( 505/986-9111).

Internet Access Head to the Santa Fe Public Library at 145 Washington Ave. ( 505/955-6780), or FedEx, 301 N. Guadalupe ( 505/982-6311).

Libraries The Santa Fe Public Library is half a block from the plaza, at 145 Washington Ave. ( 505/955-6780). The Oliver La Farge Branch library is at 1730 Llano St., just off St. Michael’s Drive, and the Southside Library is at 6599 Jaguar Dr., at the intersection with Country Club Road. The New Mexico State Library is at 1209 Camino Carlos Rey ( 505/476-9700).

Liquor Laws The legal drinking age is 21 throughout New Mexico. Bars may remain open until 2am Monday to Saturday and until midnight on Sunday. Wine, beer, and spirits are sold at licensed supermarkets and liquor stores, but there are no package sales on election days until after 7pm, and on Sundays before noon. It is illegal to transport liquor through most Native American reservations.

Lost Property Contact the city police at 505/955-5030.

Newspapers & Magazines The New Mexican—Santa Fe’s daily paper—is the oldest newspaper in the West. Its main office is at 202 E. Marcy St. ( 505/983-3303; www.santafenewmexican.com). The weekly Santa Fe Reporter, 132 E. Marcy St. ( 505/988-5541; www.sfreporter.com), published on Wednesdays and available free at stands all over town, is often more controversial, and its entertainment listings are excellent. Regional magazines published locally are New Mexico magazine (monthly, statewide interest; www.nmmagazine.com) and the Santa Fean magazine (six times a year, Southwestern lifestyles; www.santafean.com).

Pharmacies Del Norte Pharmacy, at 1691 Galisteo St. ( 505/988-9797), is open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday 8am to noon. Delivery service is available.

Police In case of emergency, dial 911. For all other inquiries, call the Santa Fe Police Department, 2515 Camino Entrada ( 505/428-3710). The Santa Fe County Sheriff, with jurisdiction outside the city limits, is at 35 Camino Justicia ( 505/986-2400).

Post Offices The main post office is at 120 S. Federal Place ( 505/988-2239), 2 blocks north and 1 block west of the plaza. It’s open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to 4pm. The Coronado Station branch is at 2071 S. Pacheco St. ( 800/275-8777), and is open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday 9am to 4pm. Some of the major hotels have stamp machines and mailboxes with twice-daily pickup.

Radio Local radio stations are KLBU (102.9), which plays contemporary jazz, and KBAC (98.1), which plays alternative rock and folk music.

Safety Although the tourist district appears very safe, Santa Fe is not on the whole a safe city; theft and the number of reported rapes have risen. The good news is that Santa Fe’s overall crime statistics do appear to be falling. Still, when walking the city streets, guard your purse carefully because there are many bag-grab thefts, particularly during the summer tourist months. Also, be as aware of your surroundings as you would in any other major city.

Taxes A tax of about 8% is added to all purchases, with an additional 7% added to lodging bills.

Taxis See “Getting Around,” above.

Television There are five Albuquerque network affiliates: KOB-TV (Channel 4, NBC), KOAT-TV (Channel 7, ABC), KQRE-TV (Channel 13, CBS), KASA-TV (Channel 2, FOX), and KNME-TV (Channel 5, PBS).

Time Zone New Mexico is on Mountain Standard Time, 1 hour ahead of the West Coast and 2 hours behind the East Coast. When it’s 10am in Santa Fe, it’s noon in New York, 11am in Chicago, and 9am in San Francisco. Daylight saving time is in effect from early March to early November.

Useful Telephone Numbers Information on road conditions in the Santa Fe area can be obtained by calling the State Highway and Transportation Department ( 800/432-4269). For time and temperature, call 505/473-2211.

Weather For weather forecasts, call 505/988-5151.

Where to Stay

Where to Stay in Downtown Santa Fe

The City Different offers a broad range of accommodations. From downtown hotels to Cerrillos Road motels, ranch-style resorts to quaint bed-and-breakfasts, the standard is almost universally high.

You should be aware of the seasonal nature of the tourist industry in Santa Fe. Accommodations are often booked through the summer months, the Christmas holiday, and Easter, and most places raise their prices accordingly. Rates increase even more during Indian Market, the third weekend of August. During these periods, it’s essential to make reservations well in advance.

No matter the season, discounts are often available to seniors, affiliated groups, corporate employees, and others. If you have any questions about your eligibility for these lower rates, be sure to ask.

A combined city-state tax of about 15% is added to every hotel bill in Santa Fe. And unless otherwise indicated, all recommended accommodations come with a private bathroom.

Reservations Services Year-round reservation assistance is available from Santafehotels.com ( 800/745-9910), the Accommodation Hot Line ( 800/338-6877), All Santa Fe Reservations ( 877/737-7366), and Santa Fe Stay, which specializes in casitas ( 800/995-2272). Emergency Lodging Assistance is available free daily after 4pm ( 505/986-0038). All of the above are private companies and may have biases toward certain properties. Do your own research before calling.

Hotels/Motels

Downtown

Everything within the horseshoe-shaped Paseo de Peralta and east a few blocks along either side of the Santa Fe River is considered downtown Santa Fe. All these accommodations are within walking distance of the plaza.

Very Expensive

Eldorado Hotel & Spa ★★ Since its opening in 1986, the Eldorado has been a model hotel for the city. In a large structure, the architects managed to meld pueblo revival style with an interesting cathedral feel, inside and out. The lobby has a high ceiling that continues into the court area and the cafe, all adorned with well over a million dollars’ worth of Southwestern art. The spacious, quiet rooms received a makeover in 2006, maintaining an artistic motif, with a warm feel created by custom-made furniture in all and kiva fireplaces in many. You’ll find families, businesspeople, and conference-goers staying here. Most of the rooms have views of downtown Santa Fe, many from balconies. The Nidah Spa offers a full range of treatments, including turquoise gemstone therapy. The Eldorado also manages the nearby Zona Rosa condominiums, which are two-, three-, and four-bedroom suites with full kitchens. The hotel’s innovative and elegant restaurant, the Old House, serves creative American cuisine.

309 W. San Francisco St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/955-4455 or 505/988-4455. Fax 505/995-4544. www.eldoradohotel.com. 219 units. $139–$389 double. Seasonal package rates available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $18 per night. Pets accepted, $50 fee. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; concierge; executive-level rooms; medium-size health club; Jacuzzi; heated rooftop pool; room service; his-and-hers saunas and steam baths; spa. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi.

Encantado Resort ★★★ This Auberge Resort, set in pink foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains about 15 minutes from Santa Fe, offers 65 elegant casitas, an artfully kiva-shaped spa, and gourmet dining. The resort melds contemporary architecture with traditional Pueblo style, using textured art and earth tones to add warmth to the design. Broad windows blur the boundary between indoor and out, with views from nearly every vantage point. In the casitas, polished concrete floors, kiva fireplaces, vaulted ceilings, and patios with stunning vistas west toward the Jemez Mountains add to the “mystical” quality the resort touts. In addition, the spa features a full range of treatments, including Ayurvedic techniques and regionally inspired massages. Steam rooms, soaking pools, and a fitness facility add to the experience. The resort’s restaurant, Terra, opened to national rave reviews.

198 NM 592, Santa Fe, NM 87506. 877/262-4666. Fax 505/946-5888. www.encantadoresort.com. 65 casitas. $305–$695 casita double; $650–$1,100 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; sauna; spa. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi.

Inn of the Anasazi ★★★ The designers of this fine luxury hotel have crafted a feeling of grandness in a very limited space. The rooms have bold splashes of color, and flagstone floors create a warm and welcoming ambience that evokes the feeling of an Anasazi cliff dwelling. Oversize cacti complete the look. A half-block off the plaza, this hotel was built in 1991 to cater to travelers who know their hotels. On the ground floor are a living room and library with oversize furniture and replicas of Anasazi pottery and Navajo rugs. The rooms range from medium-size to spacious, with pearl-finished walls, comfortable four-poster beds, and novelties such as iron candle sconces, gas-lit kiva fireplaces (in some), and humidifiers. All the rooms are quiet and comfortable, though none have dramatic views. The Anasazi Restaurant serves creative Southwestern cuisine.

113 Washington Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/688-8100 or 505/988-3030. Fax 505/988-3277. www.innoftheanasazi.com. 57 units. Jan–Feb $217–$269 double; Mar–Apr $217–$362 double; May–Dec $325–$525 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15 per day. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; library/boardroom; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Inn of the Five Graces ★★★ In the historic Barrio de Analco, just a few blocks from the plaza, this Relais & Châteaux inn holds true to its stated theme: “Here the Orient and the Old West meet, surprisingly at home in each other’s arms.” With floral-decked courtyards, elaborately decorated suites with kilim rugs, embroidered bedspreads, and ornately carved beds, this is a chic place. All rooms are suites, with sitting areas and fireplaces. Most have large bathrooms with elaborate broken-tile mosaics and soaking or jetted tubs. It’s of the same caliber as Inn of the Anasazi, but with more flair. In recent years, the inn acquired the atmospheric Pink Adobe restaurant next door; every other evening the inn holds a wine-and-cheese reception in the Pink’s lounge. All rooms have robes, stocked fridges, patios, and CD players; some have kitchenettes. This is a nontipping property, and all amenities are included with the room rate.

150 E. de Vargas St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 505/992-0957. www.fivegraces.com. 24 units. $360–$900 double, depending on the season and type of room. Price includes full breakfast with specialty items and afternoon treats. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Pets welcome ($75 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen (in some), MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi.

Inn & Spa at Loretto ★★ This much-photographed hotel, just 2 blocks from the plaza, was built in 1975 to resemble Taos Pueblo. Light and shadow dance upon the five-level structure as the sun crosses the sky. With a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2008, this has become a comfortable and elegant place to stay. The medium-size rooms employ a Navajo motif, with comfortable beds and fine linens, while the medium-size bathrooms have fine tiling and robes. Be aware that the Loretto likes convention traffic, so sometimes service lags for travelers. Overall, it is fairly quiet and has nice views—especially on the northeast side, where you’ll see both the historic St. Francis Cathedral and the Loretto Chapel (with its “miraculous” spiral staircase; ). The Spa Terre offers a range of treatments, from facials to massages, in intimate, Southwest-meets-Asia rooms. Their restaurant, Luminaria, and lobby lounge are excellent places to relax and sate your hunger.

211 Old Santa Fe Trail (P.O. Box 1417), Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/727-5531 or 505/988-5531. Fax 505/984-7968. www.innatloretto.com. 134 units. Jan–Mar $189–$279 double; Apr–June $219–$349 double; July–Oct $329–$499 double; Nov–Dec $209–$299 double. Additional person $30. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Resort fee of $12 per night. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $18 per night. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; outdoor pool (heated year-round); room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, stocked minibar, MP3 docking station (some rooms), Wi-Fi.

La Fonda ★★ This historic hotel right on the plaza offers a glimpse into Santa Fe’s past. It was once the inn at the end of the Santa Fe Trail, hosting trappers and traders, as well as notables such as President Rutherford B. Hayes and General Ulysses S. Grant. The original inn was razed in 1920 and replaced by the current La Fonda, built in pueblo revival style. Inside, the lobby is richly textured and slightly dark, with people bustling about, sitting in the cafe, and buying jewelry from Native Americans.

No two rooms are the same, but all have fine bedding and graceful touches such as hand-painted furnishings and some have fireplaces and private balconies. The elegant Terrace suites have handcrafted furniture, balconies, and city views. La Fiesta Lounge draws many locals, and the newly renovated La Plazuela offers excellent Southwestern cuisine in a skylit garden patio. The Bell Tower Bar, the highest point downtown, is a great place for a cocktail and a view of the city.

100 E. San Francisco St. (P.O. Box 1209), Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/523-5002 or 505/982-5511. Fax 505/988-2952. www.lafondasantafe.com. 168 units. $229–$319 double; $249–$359 deluxe double; $309–$469 suite. Additional person $15. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $12 per day in a covered garage. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 lounges; babysitting, concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool (heated in summer); room service; sauna; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and Spa ★★ Three blocks from the plaza, this century-old New Mexico adobe hotel was once an art colony, and the original part was a Victorian mansion built in 1882. It is said that the first owner’s widow, who died in 1896, continues to haunt the place. If you like tasteful Victorian interiors more than Santa Fe style, these rooms are a good bet.

The rest of the hotel offers pueblo-style architecture. Here, you get to experience squeaky maple floors, vigas and latillas, and kiva fireplaces. Be aware that unless you’ve secured a deluxe room or suite, the rooms tend to be fairly small. Fortunately, the hotel benefited from major remodels in recent years, including a $6-million one in 2008, so all the bathrooms are modern with artful granite throughout. Most notable are the Zen-Southwestern–style spa rooms, as well as a few “gallery suites,” appointed with original artwork. Most rooms don’t have views but have outdoor patios, and most are tucked back into the quiet compound. This hotel has taken many actions toward being “green.”

330 E. Palace Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/727-5276 or 505/986-0000. Fax 505/982-6850. www.laposada.rockresorts.com. 157 units. $169–$361 double; $239–$401 deluxe double; $419–$1,131 suite. Various vacation packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. $30 resort fee per day includes parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool (heated year-round); room service; spa w/full treatments. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Don Gaspar Inn ★★ In a historic neighborhood only a 10-minute walk from the plaza, the Don Gaspar occupies three homes, connected by brilliant gardens and brick walkways. Rooms vary in size, though all are plenty spacious, most with patios, some with kitchenettes, and there’s even a full house for rent. Travelers looking for an adventure beyond a hotel stay, but without the close interaction of a B&B, enjoy this place. Though the rooms don’t have views, all are quiet. The Courtyard Casita, with a kitchenette and a sleeper couch in its own room, is nice for a small family. The Territorial Suite, with carpet throughout and Italian marble in the bathroom, is perfect for a romantic getaway. All rooms have bathrobes and fireplaces. The friendly staff serves a full breakfast such as green-chile stew with fresh baked items on the patio under a peach tree (the fruit from which they make cobbler) in the warm months and in the atrium in winter.

623 Don Gaspar Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87505. 888/986-8664 or 505/986-8664. Fax 505/986-0696. www.dongaspar.com. 10 units. $165–$185 double; $165–$225 suite; $205–$255 casita; $345–$385 house. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Hotel Plaza Real ★ This Territorial-style hotel provides comfortable, creatively appointed rooms near the plaza. The lobby is rustically elegant, built around a fireplace with balconies perched above. Clean and attractively decorated rooms have Southwestern-style furniture, many with French doors opening onto balconies or terraces that surround a quiet courtyard decorated with ristras (strung chiles). Beds are comfortably soft and bathrooms are small but with an outer sink vanity. The junior suites have an especially nice layout, with a sitting area near a fireplace and good light from the north and south.

125 Washington Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 877/901-7666 or 505/988-4900. Fax 505/983-9322. www.hhandr.com. 56 units. $109–$149 double; $149–$289 suite, depending on time of year and type of room. Additional person $20. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $14 per day. Pets $50 per stay. Amenities: Lounge; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some), Wi-Fi.

Hotel St. Francis ★★ Two blocks from the plaza, this 1880 building was renovated in 2009 with an artful Spanish monastery atmosphere. The lobby is crowned by a stone fireplace and has marble arches and travertine tile floors. Devotional art decorates all public spaces and rooms. The standard rooms here are small, but sparsely enough decorated so they feel more cozy than cramped. If possible, opt for a deluxe room and you’ll have more space. Each room in the hotel has a unique footprint, some with hardwood floors, some with carpets. All have a carved trastero housing the television, a sink in the room, and fairly small but nicely tiled bathroom. Request a room facing east, and you’ll wake each day to a view of the mountains. Enjoy high tea in the lobby Thursday to Saturday from 3 to 5pm. Their restaurant, called Table, serves quality New Mexican/American food.

210 Don Gaspar Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/529-5700 or 505/983-5700. Fax 505/989-7690. www.hotelstfrancis.com. 81 units. $109–$349 double, depending on the season. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $9 per day. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service; access to nearby spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in deluxe rooms), MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi.

Hotel Santa Fe ★★ A 10-minute walk south of the plaza, this is the only Native American–owned hotel in Santa Fe. Picuris Pueblo is the majority stockholder, and part of the pleasure of staying here is the culture the Picuris bring to your visit. This is not to say that you’ll experience the rusticity of a pueblo—this is a sophisticated hotel decorated in Southwestern style. The rooms are medium size, with clean lines and comfortable beds, the decor accented with pine Taos-style furniture. Rooms on the north side get less street noise and have better views of the mountains, but they don’t have the sun shining onto their balconies. In the summer, Picuris dancers come to perform and bread bakers uncover the horno (oven) and prepare loaves for sale.

The Hacienda at Hotel Santa Fe ★★ is a unique addition and features 35 luxurious rooms and suites, all with cozy fireplaces, 10-foot ceilings, handcrafted Southwestern furnishings, and plush duvets to snuggle under on chilly nights. The Amaya restaurant serves a standard breakfast, but for lunch and dinner you can dine on what they call “native” cuisine from all over the Americas.

1501 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/825-9876 or 505/982-1200. Fax 505/984-2211. www.hotelsantafe.com. 163 units. $129–$199 double; $239–$459 suite, depending on the season. Hacienda rooms and suites $199–$459. Additional person $20. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Pets accepted with $20 fee. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; concierge; executive-level rooms; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar (in suites), Wi-Fi.

Inn on the Alameda ★★ Just across the street from the bosque-shaded Santa Fe River sits the Inn on the Alameda, a cozy stop for those who like the services of a hotel with the intimacy of an inn. It’s a little like a village, with a number of pueblo-style adobe buildings and casitas. The owner has used red brick in the dining area and Mexican equipae (wicker) furniture in the lobby, as well as thick vigas and shiny latillas in a sitting area set around a grand fireplace. Some rooms have kiva fireplaces, and all have comfortable beds, good linens, robes, and well-planned bathrooms with tile. A full-service bar is open nightly. Breakfast is delicious, with bakery and organic items, as well as dairy-free and gluten-free options.

303 E. Alameda, Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/289-2122 or 505/984-2121. Fax 505/986-8325. www.innonthealameda.com. 71 units. $125–$230 queen; $180–$305 king; $240–$390 suite. Additional adult $25. Reduced off-season rates are available. Rates include breakfast and afternoon wine-and-cheese reception. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Small pets under 30 lb. welcome with $30 fee. Amenities: Lounge; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; 2 open-air Jacuzzis; pet amenities and a pet-walking map. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, fridge (in some), hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Garrett’s Desert Inn The closest budget hotel to the plaza (just 3 blocks), Garrett’s offers decent and comfortable accommodations. It’s a clean, two-story, concrete-block building around a broad parking lot. Renovation on the hotel is ongoing but don’t expect the consistency of a chain hotel here. Instead you’ll find some ’50s elements, such as Art Deco tile in the bathrooms and plenty of space in the rooms. If you’re traveling in winter, ask for a south-facing room and you might be able to sunbathe under the portal. Minisuites have refrigerators and microwaves. The outdoor pool here is one of the nicest in town.

311 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/888-2145 or 505/982-1851. Fax 505/989-1647. www.garrettsdesertinn.com. 83 units. $89–$169 double, depending on season and type of room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; heated outdoor pool (open in summer). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Old Santa Fe Inn ★ Want to stay downtown and savor Santa Fe–style ambience without wearing out your plastic? This is your hotel. A multi-million-dollar renovation to this 1930s court motel has created a comfortable, quiet inn just a few blocks from the plaza. Rooms verge on small but are decorated with such lovely handcrafted colonial-style furniture that you probably won’t mind. All have small Mexican-tiled bathrooms, and some have gas fireplaces and DVD players. You have a choice of king, queen, or twin bedrooms as well as suites. Breakfast is served in an atmospheric dining room next to a comfortable library. This inn jacks prices way up during special event times such as the Indian Market.

320 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/745-9910 or 505/995-0800. Fax 505/995-0400. www.oldsantafeinn.com. 43 units. $90–$129 double; $179–$500 suite depending on season. Rates include full hot breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi.

Santa Fe Motel and Inn ★ If you like walking to the plaza and restaurants but don’t want to pay big bucks, this little compound is a good choice. Rooms here are larger than at the Old Santa Fe Inn and have more personality than those at Garrett’s Desert Inn. Ask for one of the casitas in back—you’ll pay more but get a little turn-of-the-20th-century charm, plus more quiet and privacy. Some have vigas; others have skylights, fireplaces, and patios. The main part of the motel, built in 1955, is two-story Territorial style, with upstairs rooms that open onto a portal with a bit of a view. All guest rooms are decorated with a Southwest motif and some have antique furnishings. All have medium-size bathrooms and comfortable beds. A full breakfast, including Sage Bakehouse bread, is served each morning in the Southwest-style dining room or on a quaint patio.

510 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/930-5002 or 505/982-1039. Fax 505/986-1275. www.santafemotel.com. 23 units. $79–$139 double; $99–$159 deluxe double depending on season. Additional person $10. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette (in some), Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Santa Fe Sage Inn If you’re looking for a convenient, almost-downtown location at a reasonable price, this is one of your best bets. This two-story stucco adobe motel with portals is spread through five buildings and is about a 10-minute walk from the plaza. The hotel also provides shuttle service to local businesses. Built in 1985, it was remodeled in 2005. The smallish rooms have Southwestern furnishings, with comfortable beds and small bathrooms. There’s a park in the back and an outdoor pool set in a secluded fenced area, a good place for kids. To avoid street noise, ask for a room at the back of the property.

725 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 866/433-0335 or 505/982-5952. Fax 505/984-8879. www.santafesageinn.com. 156 units. $50–$140 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Additional person $10. Pets welcome. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Exercise room; heated outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

family-friendly Hotels

Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa Riding lessons, tennis courts with instruction, a pool with a lifeguard, a stocked trout pond just for kids, a summer daytime program, horseback trail trips, and more make this a veritable day camp for all ages.

El Rey Inn A picnic area and playground in a courtyard set back away from the street make this a nice place for families to commune in summer.

The Lodge at Santa Fe Built above the city, with a bit of a country-club feel, this place offers a nice outdoor pool and condo units that serve family needs well.

Residence Inn Spacious suites house families comfortably. An outdoor pool, fully equipped kitchens, and patio grills add to the appeal.

Santa Fe Sage Inn With its fenced-in pool and reasonable prices, this is a good spot for families.

The North Side

Within easy reach of the plaza, the north side encompasses the area that lies north of the loop of Paseo de Peralta.

Very Expensive

Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa ★★★ This resort holds special significance for me because my parents met in the lodge and were later married in the chapel. More than a century ago, when Bishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy was the spiritual leader of northern New Mexico’s Roman Catholic population, he often escaped clerical politics by hiking into this valley called Little Tesuque. He built a retreat and a humble chapel (now on the National Register of Historic Places) with high-vaulted ceilings and a hand-built altar. Today, Lamy’s 450-acre getaway has become Bishop’s Lodge.

In recent years, a $17-million renovation spruced up the place and added a spa. The guest rooms, spread through many buildings, feature handcrafted furniture and regional artwork, and many have balconies or patios. The newer Ridge Rooms are spacious, with high ceilings, vigas, gas fireplaces, patios or balconies, and most with views. The newest addition are villas: spectacular two- and three-bedroom town houses, filled with amenities, including full kitchens, fireplaces, patios, and views, a great option for families or couples who travel together. The Bishop’s Lodge is an active resort three seasons of the year, with activities such as horseback riding, nature walks, and cookouts; in the winter, it takes on the character of a romantic country retreat. A children’s program keeps kids busy for much of the day.

Bishop’s Lodge Rd. (P.O. Box 2367), Santa Fe, NM 87504. 505/983-6377. Fax 505/989-8939. www.bishopslodge.com. 111 units. Summer $299–$489 double; fall and spring $259–$399 double; midwinter $189–$309 double; $599–$1,800 villa. Resort fee $15 per person per day. Additional person $15. Children 3 and under stay free in parent’s room. Ask about packages that include meals. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; babysitting; children’s center; concierge; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; spa; tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Expensive

The Lodge at Santa Fe ★ Set on a hill as you head north toward the Santa Fe Opera, this three-story hotel is a convenient and relaxing place to stay. The theme is Native American, with Anasazi-style stacked sandstone throughout the lobby and dining room, a theme that carries into the guest rooms. They are medium size, decorated in earth tones with bold prints, some with views of the mountains, others overlooking the pool. Premium rooms are more spacious, some with large living rooms and private balconies. Each parlor suite has a Murphy bed and kiva fireplace in the living room, a big dining area, a wet bar and refrigerator, and a jetted bathtub. The suites nearby come with fully equipped kitchens, fireplaces, and private decks. Be aware that this hotel is ready for a remodel; the rooms can be a little worn around the edges. The lodge offers free shuttle service to downtown.

750 N. St. Francis Dr., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/563-4373 or 505/992-5800. Fax 505/992-5856. www.lodgeatsantafe.com. 128 units. $89–$179 double; $129–$199 suite; $200–$300 condo. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen (in suites), Wi-Fi.

The South Side

Greater Santa Fe

Santa Fe’s major strip, Cerrillos Road, is US 85, the main route to and from Albuquerque and the I-25 freeway. It’s about 5 1/4 miles from the plaza to the Santa Fe mall, which marks the southern boundary of the city. Most motels are on this strip, although several of them are to the east, closer to St. Francis Drive (US 84) or the Las Vegas Highway.

Expensive

Residence Inn by Marriott ★ Designed to look like a neighborhood, this inn provides the efficient stay you’d expect from a Marriott. It’s a 10-minute drive from the plaza, through a few quiet neighborhoods. The lobby and breakfast area are warmly decorated in tile, with a fireplace and Southwestern accents. There are three sizes of suites, each roomy, each with a fully equipped kitchen. All rooms have fireplaces and are decorated with Southwestern furnishings. Many have balconies. Outside, plenty of amenities keep family members happy, including barbecue grills on the patio. Most who stay here are leisure travelers, but you’ll also encounter some government workers and business travelers. Guests gather for complimentary hors d’oeuvres Monday through Wednesday from 5 to 6:30pm.

1698 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, NM 87505. 800/331-3131 or 505/988-7300. Fax 505/988-3243. www.marriot.com. 120 suites. $139–$249 studio suite and double suite; $179–$289 penthouse suite. Rates vary according to season. Rates include hot breakfast buffet and Mon–Wed evening hors d’oeuvres. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Exercise room; 3 Jacuzzis; jogging trail; outdoor pool; sports court. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, Wi-Fi.

Moderate

El Rey Inn ★ Staying at “the King” makes you feel as if you’re traveling the old Route 66 through the Southwest. Opened in the 1930s, it received additions in the 1950s, and remodeling is ongoing. No two rooms are alike. The oldest section, nearest the lobby, feels a bit cramped, though the rooms have Art Deco tile in the bathrooms and vigas on the ceilings. Some have little patios. Be sure to request a room as far back as possible from Cerrillos Road. The two stories of suites around the Spanish colonial courtyard have the ambience of a Spanish inn, with carved furniture and cozy couches. Some rooms have kitchenettes. To the north sit 10 deluxe units around the courtyard. These rooms offer more upscale amenities and gas log fireplaces, as well as distinctive furnishings and artwork. There’s also a sitting room with a library and games tables, as well as a picnic area, a playground, and an exercise room.

1862 Cerrillos Rd. (P.O. Box 4759), Santa Fe, NM 87502. 800/521-1349 or 505/982-1931. Fax 505/989-9249. www.elreyinnsantafe.com. 86 units. $99–$165 double; $125–$225 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool (summer only); sauna. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchenette (in some), Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

La Quinta Inn Though it’s a good 15-minute drive from the plaza, this is a good choice among the economical Cerrillos Road chain hotels. Built in 1986, it has had ongoing remodeling to keep the rooms comfortable and tasteful. The rooms within the three-story building have an unexpectedly elegant feel, with lots of deep colors and Art Deco tile in the bathrooms. There’s plenty of space in these rooms, and they’re lit for mood as well as for reading. The heated outdoor kidney-shaped pool has a nice lounging area. The hotel is just across a parking lot from the Santa Fe Place mall, which shoppers and moviegoers will appreciate. The Flying Tortilla coffee shop is adjacent.

4298 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87507. 800/753-3757 or 505/471-1142. Fax 505/438-7219. www.lq.com. 130 units. June to mid-Oct $92–$119 double; late Oct to May $79–$89 double. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Maximum 2 pets stay free. Amenities: Executive-level rooms; outdoor heated pool (open May–Oct). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave (in some), Wi-Fi.

Bed & Breakfasts

If you prefer a homey, intimate setting to the sometimes impersonal ambience of a large hotel, one of Santa Fe’s bed-and-breakfast inns may be right for you. All those listed here are in or close to the downtown area and offer comfortable accommodations at expensive to moderate prices.

Adobe Abode ★ A short walk from the plaza, in the same quiet residential neighborhood as the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, Adobe Abode is one of Santa Fe’s most imaginative B&Bs. The living room is cozy, decorated with folk art. The creativity shines in each of the guest rooms as well, some in the main house, which was built in 1907. Others, in back, are newer. The Galisteo Suite is decorated with Spanish colonial furniture and artwork, while the Bronco Room is filled with cowboy paraphernalia: hats, Pendleton blankets, pioneer chests, and an entire shelf lined with children’s cowboy boots. Two rooms have fireplaces, and several have private patios. Complimentary sherry, fruit, and cookies are served daily in the living room. Every morning, a full breakfast of fresh fruit and a hot dish such as green-chile corn soufflé is served in the country-style kitchen.

202 Chapelle St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 505/983-3133. Fax 505/983-3132. www.adobeabode.com. 6 units. $155–$225 double. Rates include full gourmet breakfast and afternoon snacks. DISC, MC, V. Limited free parking. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

El Farolito ★★ Within walking distance of the plaza, themes here include the Native American Room, decorated with rugs and pottery; the South-of-the-Border Room, with Mexican folk art; and the elegant Santa Fe–style Opera Room, with hand-carved, lavishly upholstered furniture. A two-room suite has been added in the main building, with a queen-size iron bed and Southwestern decor. The walls of most of the rooms were rubbed with beeswax during plastering to give them a golden finish. All rooms have kiva fireplaces and private patios. Part of the inn was built before 1912, and the rest is new, but the old-world elegance carries through. For breakfast, the focus is on healthy food with a little decadence thrown in. You’ll enjoy fresh fruit and home-baked breads and pastries. Under the same stellar ownership (but a little less expensive) is the nearby Four Kachinas Inn ★ ( 888/634-8782; www.fourkachinas.com), where Southwestern-style rooms sit around a sunny courtyard.

514 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 888/634-8782 or 505/988-1631. Fax 505/988-4589. www.farolito.com. 8 units. $150–$280 casita. Rates include hot entree breakfast buffet. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Babysitting by appointment. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Hacienda Nicholas ★★ A few blocks from the plaza, this inn has a delightful Southwest hacienda feel. Rooms surround a sunny patio; my favorite is the bright Cottonwood, with a serene feel created by the sunshine-colored walls, wood floors, and a kiva fireplace. The luxurious Sunflower has French doors, plenty of space, and also a fireplace. The rooms off the sitting room are more modest but have a warm “Southwest meets Provence” feel. All beds are comfortable and bathrooms range from small (with showers only) to larger (with tub/showers). A full breakfast—including such delicacies as homemade granola and red-and-green chile breakfast burritos—and afternoon wine and cheese are served in the lovely Great Room or on the patio, both with fireplaces. Under the same ownership, Alexander’s Inn ( 888/321-5123 or 505/986-1431; www.alexanders-inn.com) has long been one of the city’s finest B&Bs. The inn itself has closed, but the same managers rent four charming casitas in the older district of Santa Fe.

320 E. Marcy St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 888/284-3170 or 505/992-0888. Fax 505/982-8572. www.haciendanicholas.com. 7 units. $100–$240 double. Additional person $25. Rates include breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Pets accepted with $20 fee. Amenities: Concierge. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Water Street Inn ★★ An award-winning adobe restoration 4 blocks from the plaza, this friendly inn features elegant Southwestern-style rooms, with antique furnishings, and several with kiva fireplaces. Rooms are medium size to large, some with four-poster beds, all comfortable with fine linens and well-planned Mexican-tiled bathrooms. Four suites have elegant contemporary Southwestern furnishings and outdoor private patios with fountains. Most rooms have balconies or patios. The hot breakfast here is always gourmet.

427 W. Water St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 800/646-6752 or 505/984-1193. Fax 505/984-6235. www.waterstreetinn.com. 11 units. $195–$275 double. Rates include hot gourmet breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Children and pets welcome with prior approval. Amenities: Jacuzzi; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV/VCR/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

RV Parks & Campgrounds

RV Parks

At least four private camping areas, mainly for recreational vehicles, are located within a few minutes’ drive of downtown Santa Fe. Typical rates are $30 for full RV hookups, $20 for tents. Be sure to book ahead at busy times.

Los Campos RV Resort The resort has 95 spaces with full hookups, picnic tables, and covered pavilion for use with reservation at no charge. It’s just 5 miles south of the plaza, so it’s plenty convenient, but keep in mind that it is surrounded by the city. The campground honors a variety of discounts. Wireless Internet access is available in half the park.

3574 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87507. 800/852-8160. Fax 505/471-9220. $36–$45 daily; $220–$258 weekly; $500 monthly in winter, $550 monthly in summer. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome. Amenities: Grills; outdoor pool; restrooms; showers; vending machines; free cable TV.

Rancheros de Santa Fe Campground ★ Tents, motor homes, and trailers requiring full hookups are welcome here. The park’s 127 sites are situated on 22 acres of piñon and juniper forest. Cabins are also available. It’s about 6 miles southeast of Santa Fe and is open March 15 to October 31. Wireless Internet access is available throughout the park and high-speed Internet access is available in the lobby. Free nightly movies are shown May through September.

736 Old Las Vegas Hwy. (exit 290 off I-25), Santa Fe, NM 87505. 800/426-9259 or 505/466-3482. www.rancheros.com. Tent site $20–$22; RV hookup $24–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Cable TV hookup; grills; grocery store; nature trails; picnic tables; playground; outdoor pool; propane; recreation room; restrooms; showers.

Santa Fe KOA This campground, about 11 miles northeast of Santa Fe, sits among the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, an excellent place to enjoy northern New Mexico’s pine-filled high desert. It offers full hookups, pull-through sites, and tent sites. Ten cabins are available. Wireless Internet access is available throughout the park.

934 Old Las Vegas Hwy. (exit 290 or 294 off I-25), Santa Fe, NM 87505. 800/KOA-1514 (562-1514), or 505/466-1419 for reservations. www.santafekoa.com. Tent site $14; cabins $55; RV hookup $29–$40. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Cable TV hookup; dumping station; gift shop; picnic tables; playground; propane; recreation room; restrooms; showers.

Campgrounds

There are three forested sites along NM 475 on the way to Ski Santa Fe. All are open from May to October. Overnight rates start at about $12.

Hyde Memorial State Park ★ About 8 miles from the city, this pine-surrounded park offers a quiet retreat. Seven RV pads with electrical pedestals and an RV dumping station are available. There are nature and hiking trails and a playground.

740 Hyde Park Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87501. 505/983-7175. www.nmparks.com. Amenities: Picnic tables; group shelters (for social events in inclement weather); vault toilets; water.

Santa Fe National Forest ★★ You’ll reach Black Canyon campground, with 44 sites, before you arrive at Hyde State Park. It’s one of the only campgrounds in the state for which you can make a reservation ( 877/444-6777; www.recreation.gov). The sites sit within thick forest, with hiking trails nearby. Big Tesuque, a first-come, first-served campground with 10 newly rehabilitated sites, is about 12 miles from town. The sites here are closer to the road and sit at the edge of aspen forests. Both Black Canyon and Big Tesuque campgrounds, along the Santa Fe Scenic Byway, NM 475, are equipped with vault toilets.

1474 Rodeo Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87505. 505/438-5300 or 505/753-7331 (Espanola District). www.fs.fed.us/r3/sfe. Amenities: Vault toilets; drinking and all-purpose water.

Where to Dine

Where to Dine in Downtown Santa Fe

Santa Fe abounds in dining options, with hundreds of restaurants in all categories. Competition among them is steep, and spots are continually opening and closing. Locals watch closely to see which ones will survive. Some chefs create dishes that incorporate traditional Southwestern foods with ingredients not indigenous to the region; their restaurants are referred to in the listings as New American. There is also standard regional New Mexican cuisine, and beyond that, diners can opt for excellent steak and seafood, as well as Continental, European, Asian, and, of course, Mexican menus. On the south end of town, Santa Fe has the requisite chain establishments such as Outback Steakhouse, 2574 Camino Entrada ( 505/424-6800), Olive Garden, 3781 Cerrillos Rd. ( 505/438-7109), and Red Lobster, 4450 Rodeo Rd. ( 505/473-1610).

Especially during peak tourist seasons, dinner reservations may be essential. Reservations are always recommended at better restaurants.

Downtown

This area includes the circle defined by the Paseo de Peralta and St. Francis Drive, as well as Canyon Road.

Expensive

¡A La Mesa! Bistro & Wine Bar ★★ NEW AMERICAN Since its opening in late 2008, this cozy restaurant has drawn crowds. Serving what it calls “classy comfort food from all over the world,” it lives up to its goal. The atmosphere melds the curves of a century-old adobe with modern touches such as a beaded shimmer screen covering one wall. The service is refined. Your meal might start with a frisée salad with mushroom confit, bacon, and a basil vinaigrette. For a main course, the steak frites with green peppercorn and cognac sauce and, of course, french fries, offers brilliant flavor, as does the honey-lacquered duck with sour cherry sauce and mascarpone polenta. A diverse and reasonable international wine list accompanies the menu. For dessert, try the pithivier, a puff pastry with almond marzipan cream on a bed crème anglaise.

428 Agua Fria St. 505/988-2836. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$25; brunch $8–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. June–Aug Wed–Sun 11:30am–2pm (with a brunch menu Sun) and daily 5:30–9:30pm; Sept–May Mon–Sat 5:30–9:30pm. The schedule may change, so call to confirm.

Cafe Pasqual’s ★★ NEW AMERICAN/MEXICAN Pasqual’s owner uses mostly organic ingredients in her dishes, and the walls are lined with murals depicting villagers playing guitars and drinking. It’s a festive place, though it’s also excellent for a romantic dinner. My favorite dish for breakfast or lunch is the huevos motuleños (two eggs over easy on blue-corn tortillas and black beans topped with sautéed bananas, feta cheese, salsa, and green chile). Soups and salads are also served for lunch, and there’s a delectable grilled-salmon burrito with herbed goat cheese and cucumber salsa. The frequently changing dinner menu offers grilled meats and seafood, plus vegetarian specials. Start with the Mexican prawn cocktail with lime, tomato, and avocado, and move on to the chicken mole enchiladas with cilantro rice and orange-jicama salad. There’s a communal table for those who would like to meet new people over a meal. Pasqual’s offers imported beers and wine by the bottle or glass. Try to go at an odd hour—late morning or afternoon—or make a reservation for dinner; otherwise, you’ll have to wait.

121 Don Gaspar Ave. 505/983-9340. www.pasquals.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $8–$15 breakfast, $9–$17 lunch, $19–$39 dinner. AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–3pm and 5:30–9:30pm.

The Compound ★★★ NEW AMERICAN/CONTINENTAL This reincarnation of one of Santa Fe’s classic restaurants serves some of the most flavorful and daring food in the Southwest. Inside, it’s an elegant old adobe with white walls often offset by bold splashes of flowers. Outside, during warm months, a broad patio shelters diners from the city bustle. With friendly, efficient service, this is an excellent place for a romantic dinner or a relaxing lunch. Chef and owner Mark Kiffin (a James Beard award winner and the former chef at Coyote Café) lets his creativity soar. For lunch, monkfish chorizo with watercress is outrageously tasty. At dinner, you might start off with tuna tartare topped with Osetra caviar. For an entree, a signature dish is the grilled beef tenderloin with Italian potatoes and foie gras hollandaise, the beef so tender you won’t quite believe it. Finish with a warm bittersweet liquid-chocolate cake. A carefully selected beer and wine list accompanies the menu.

653 Canyon Rd. 505/982-4353. www.compoundrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$20 lunch, $25–$40 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2pm; daily 6–9pm. Bar opens nightly at 5pm.

Coyote Café ★★ NEW AMERICAN World-renowned chef and cookbook author Mark Miller put this place on the map decades ago. Now under new ownership, it has gained new popularity as a place for innovative food in a festive environment. The atmosphere blends warm colors, sculpted adobe, and creative lighting to make for a memorable meal. The waitstaff is efficient and friendly. The menu changes seasonally. Past favorites have included sautéed Italian porcinis or prawns over corn cakes with chipotle butter and guacamole. For a main course, look for delights such as pan-seared white miso halibut with roasted lobster jus, wasabi mashed potatoes, and braised baby bok choy; or the Cowboy Cut, a rib-eye with “borracho” beans, red-chile onion rings, and roasted fingerling potatoes. You can order drinks from the full bar or wine by the glass.

Coyote Café has an adjunct establishment. In summer, the place to be seen is the Rooftop Cantina, where light Mexican fare and cocktails are served on a festively painted terrace. Try the guacamole and chips, tacos, and burgers.

132 Water St. 505/983-1615. www.coyotecafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$36 (Coyote Café), $6–$16 (Rooftop Cantina). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dining room daily 5:30–10pm; Rooftop Cantina daily 11:30am–9:30pm.

El Farol ★★ SPANISH This is the place to head for local ambience and flavors of Spain, Santa Fe, and Mexico. El Farol (the Lantern), set in an 1835 adobe building, is the Canyon Road artists’ quarter’s original neighborhood bar. The restaurant has cozy low ceilings and hand-smoothed adobe walls. Thirty-five varieties of tapas are offered, including such delicacies as gambas al ajillo (shrimp with chile, garlic, Madeira, and lime) and puerco asado (pork tenderloin with figs). You can make a meal out of two or three tapas shared with your friends, or order a full dinner such as the paella or the mixed grill, with lamb, chorizo, and shrimp over potatoes. There is live entertainment 7 nights a week—including jazz/swing, folk, and Latin guitar music—starting at 9:30pm. In summer, two outdoor patios are open to diners. Check the web to find out about their flamenco dinner shows. The restaurant offers some of the finest wines and sherries in the world.

808 Canyon Rd. 505/983-9912. www.elfarolsf.com. Reservations recommended. Tapas $5–$10; main courses $8.75–$18 lunch, $26–$33 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm and 5:30–10pm. Bar until 2am Mon–Sat; until midnight Sun.

Galisteo Bistro & Wine Bar ★★★ NEW AMERICAN In a cozy setting that sparkles with conviviality, chefs Robert and Marge Chickering serve innovative cuisine that spans the globe. The bistro features an exhibition kitchen that puts on an active show during the busy dining hours here. Chef Robert greets diners at the door and follows up throughout the meal. Each night features a short list of specials, as well as a carefully planned menu with seasonal offerings. You might start with a buffalo bratwurst with mushrooms and sauerkraut. A popular entree is the chicken saltimbocca—pan-roasted chicken layered with sage, prosciutto, and fontina in a Madeira sauce with vegetables and orzo. As a recent special I had a delectable duck Marsala—served over gnocchi and finished with mushrooms, tomatoes, and cream. For dessert, definitely choose the Mud Puddle—layers of coffee ice cream, chocolate mousse and whipped cream, large enough to share. The wine list here features local and international selections that compliment the menu.

227 Galisteo St. 505/982-3700. www.galisteobistro.com. Reservations highly recommended. Tapas $9–$12; main courses $23–$29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 5–9pm.

Geronimo ★★★ NEW AMERICAN/CONTINENTAL This elegant restaurant offers one of Santa’s Fe’s most delectable and atmospheric dining experiences. Occupying an adobe structure known as the Borrego House—which was built by Geronimo Lopez in 1756—it retains the feel of an old Santa Fe home. The food is simply fantastic, always using seasonal produce. If you enjoy dining outside, reserve a spot under the portal and watch the action on Canyon Road. You might order the pan-roasted caramel quail with brie and Reggiano polenta, or a Kurobuta pork tenderloin with a soy peach glaze and scallion risotto. If you want to try one of Santa Fe’s most renowned entrees, order the peppery elk tenderloin with applewood-smoked bacon served with mashed Yukon gold potatoes. For dessert try the white-chocolate mascarpone cheesecake. The menu changes seasonally, and there’s a thoughtful wine list, with a primary focus on boutique American vineyards.

724 Canyon Rd. 505/982-1500. www.geronimorestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $28–$43 dinner. AE, MC, V. Daily 5:45–9:30pm.

La Casa Sena ★★ NEW AMERICAN/NEW MEXICAN This is one of Santa Fe’s favorite restaurants, though the food here isn’t as precise and flavorful as at Santacafé or Geronimo. It sits in a Territorial-style adobe house built in 1867 by Civil War hero Major José Sena. The house, which surrounds a garden courtyard, is today a veritable art gallery, with museum-quality landscapes on the walls and Taos-style handcrafted furniture. During the warm months, this restaurant has the best patio in town. One of my favorite lunches is the fish tacos with Cuban-mojo napa slaw. In the evening, diners might start with a salad of garden greens and New Mexico feta cheese, then move onto a red-chile-crusted pork loin with roasted sweet potatoes.

In the adjacent La Cantina, waitstaff sings Broadway show tunes as they carry platters. The Cantina offers the likes of enchiladas with black beans and Mexican rice. Both restaurants have exquisite desserts; try the black-and-white bittersweet chocolate terrine with raspberry sauce. The award-winning wine list features more than 850 selections.

125 E. Palace Ave. 505/988-9232. www.lacasasena.com. Reservations recommended. La Casa Sena main courses $8–$19 lunch, $21–$39 dinner; 5-course chef’s tasting menu $63, varies with wine price. La Cantina main courses $13–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–3pm; Sun brunch 11am–3pm; daily 5:30–10pm.

Restaurant Martín ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Santa Fe’s stand-out newcomer offers casual elegance in the historic 1944 Ortiz home, with hardwood floors and bold paintings, as well as sprawling patios perfect for a summer lunch. Opened in 2009, the restaurant is the creation of Chef Martín Rios. A native of Guadalajara, Mexico, he grew up in Santa Fe, where he started his career as a dishwasher. After formal training, he became executive chef at some of the city’s finest restaurants. Finally at his own eatery, he serves innovative flavors often utilizing chile peppers and local, seasonal ingredients. At lunch the delicious grilled-vegetable panini has eggplant, camembert, and golden tomatoes. The restaurant’s signature appetizer is an ahi tuna tartare with avocado and jalapeño parfait and toasted nori pancakes. For a dinner entree, the Maine Diver sea scallops with potato-shallot puree and chorizo offers a tasty mix of flavors. For dessert try the bittersweet chocolate truffle cake. The well-conceived wine and beer list is accessible to many wallets.

526 Galisteo St. 505/820-0919. www.restaurantmartinsantafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$14 lunch, $19–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–9pm.

Rio Chama Steakhouse ★★ STEAK/SEAFOOD Serving tasty steaks in a refined ranch atmosphere, this is one of Santa Fe’s most popular restaurants, with a bright patio during warm months. I suggest sticking to the meat dishes here, though the fish and pasta dishes can be quite good, too. At lunch or dinner you might start with the Capitol Salad, with lots of fresh greens, piñon nuts, and blue cheese crumbles. My favorite for lunch is the green-chile cheeseburger made with New Mexico grass-fed beef. Lunch also brings more formal dishes such as a grilled Atlantic salmon with grilled vegetables and mango salsa. At dinner, the prime rib is a big hit, as is the filet mignon, both served with a potato and vegetable. For dessert, try the chocolate pot. The bar here romps during happy hour, when the booths fill up, martinis nearly overflow, and reasonably priced menu items sate postwork appetites.

414 Old Santa Fe Trail. 505/955-0765. www.riochamasteakhouse.com. Reservations recommended on weekend nights. Main courses $8.50–$17 lunch, $18–$39 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–3pm and 5–10pm. Patio bar 5pm–closing.

Santacafé ★★★ NEW AMERICAN This is where I go to celebrate special occasions. The food combines the best of many cuisines, from Asian to Southwestern, served in an elegant setting with minimalist decor. The white walls are decorated only with deer antlers, and each room contains a fireplace. In warm months you can sit under elm trees in the charming courtyard. Beware that on busy nights the rooms are noisy. Their Sunday brunch menu offers such delights as a mascarpone-stuffed French toast and poached eggs with corned beef. For a lunch or dinner starter, try the shiitake and cactus spring rolls with Southwestern ponzu. One of my favorite lunches is the baby spinach niçoise salad with tuna seared to perfection. At dinner I’ve enjoyed the grilled rack of lamb with rosemary risotto. There’s an extensive whole- and half-bottle wine list, with wine by the glass as well. Desserts, as elegant as the rest of the food, are made in-house; try the warm chocolate upside-down cake with vanilla ice cream.

231 Washington Ave. 505/984-1788. www.santacafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $6.50–$11 lunch, $19–$33 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–9pm.

315 Restaurant & Wine Bar ★★ BISTRO/FRENCH This classy French bistro enjoyed instant success when it opened in 1995 because the food is simply excellent. The cozy atmosphere provides a perfect setting for a romantic meal, and during warm months the patio is a popular place to people-watch, with little white lights setting the whole place aglow. Service is excellent. The menu changes seasonally and more recently offers a number of Italian dishes. The daily prix-fixe menu offers some great deals. You might start with the grilled prawn skewer with tomato chutney and move on to the roasted halibut served with baby carrots and asparagus. Save room for dessert, such as the flourless chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream and Grand Marnier sauce. The wine list includes more than 250 offerings from France to California to Australia, with many by-the-glass selections served at table or at the new wine bar.

315 Old Santa Fe Trail. 505/986-9190. www.315santafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$17 lunch, $18–$33 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm; summer only Fri 11:30am–2pm.

family-friendly Restaurants

Blue Corn Cafe A relaxed atmosphere and their own menu pleases kids, while excellent brewpub beer pleases parents.

Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill A casual atmosphere allows parents to relax while their kids chow down on quesadillas and burritos.

Moderate

Cowgirl Hall of Fame ★ REGIONAL AMERICAN/BARBECUE/CAJUN This raucous bar/restaurant serves decent food in a festive atmosphere. The main room is a bar—a hip hangout spot, and a good place to eat as well. The back room is quieter, with wood floors and tables and plenty of cowgirl memorabilia. Best of all is sitting out on a brick patio lit with strings of white lights during the warm season. The service is at times brusque, and the food varies. In winter, my favorite is a big bowl of gumbo or crawfish étouffée, and the rest of the time, I order Jamaican jerk chicken or pork tenderloin when it’s a special. Careful, both can be hot. The daily blue-plate special is a real buy, especially on Tuesday nights, when it’s chile rellenos. There’s even a special “kid’s corral” that has horseshoes, a rocking horse, a horse-shaped rubber tire swing, hay bales, and a beanbag toss. Happy hour is daily from 3 to 6pm. There is also live music almost every night, a pool hall, and a deli.

319 S. Guadalupe St. 505/982-2565. www.cowgirlsantafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$13 lunch, $8–$23 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–midnight; Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 10am–11pm. Bar Mon–Sat until 2am; Sun until midnight.

Il Piatto Cucina Italiano ★★ NORTHERN ITALIAN This simple Italian cafe brings innovative flavors to thinner wallets. It’s simple and elegant, with contemporary art on the walls—nice for a romantic evening. Service is efficient, though on a busy night, overworked. The menu changes seasonally, complemented by a few perennial standards. For a starter, try the grilled calamari with shaved fennel and aioli. Among entrees, my favorite is the pancetta-wrapped trout with grilled polenta and wild mushrooms. The Gorgonzola-walnut ravioli is a favorite of many, though not quite enough food to fill me up, so I order an appetizer. A full wine and beer menu is available.

95 W. Marcy St. 505/984-1091. www.ilpiattosantafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; daily 5:30–9pm. Closed July 4.

India Palace ★★ INDIAN Once every few weeks, I get a craving for the lamb vindaloo served at this restaurant in the center of downtown. A festive ambience, with pink walls painted with mosque rooflines, makes this a nice place for a relaxed meal. The service is efficient, and most of the waiters are from India, as is the chef. The tandoori chicken, fish, lamb, and shrimp are rich and flavorful, and the baingan bhartha (eggplant) makes a nice accompaniment. A lunch buffet provides an excellent selection of both vegetarian and nonvegetarian dishes at a reasonable price. Beer and wine are available, or you might want some chai tea.

227 Don Gaspar Ave. (inside the Water St. parking compound). 505/986-5859. www.indiapalace.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$26; luncheon buffet $9.50. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm. Closed Super Bowl Sunday.

La Boca ★★ SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN Amid cream-colored walls and sparse decor, with simple white-clothed tables set close together, Chef James Campbell Caruso brings the sensations of southern Spain to your palate. Utilizing traditional Spanish foods with mixtures of Arabic and Moroccan flavors, the menu always has welcome surprises. Such artistry has garnered the restaurant acclaim in Travel + Leisure, Esquire, and the New York Times. Only tapas are served at dinner, emphasizing a social way of dining, since dishes circulate—along with conversation—around the table. You may sample Velarde peaches wrapped in jamón serrano or a grilled hanger steak draped with smoked sea-salt-caramel sauce. Full entrees such as paella are available as well. Accenting the experience are selections from a handpicked wine list focusing on Spanish, Italian, and South American vineyards—all served by a knowledgeable and conscientious waitstaff.

72 W. Marcy St. 505/982-3433. www.labocasf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$24 lunch; dinner tapas $6–$14; 3-, 4-, and 5-course tasting menus $45–$65. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–10pm; Sun 5–10pm.

Shohko Cafe ★★ ASIAN Santa Fe’s favorite sushi restaurant serves fresh fish in a 150-year-old adobe building that was once a bordello. The atmosphere is sparse and comfortable, a blending of New Mexican decor (such as ceiling vigas and Mexican tile floors) with traditional Japanese decorative touches (rice-paper screens, for instance). Up to 30 fresh varieties of raw seafood, including sushi and sashimi, are served at plain pine tables in various rooms or at the sushi bar. Request the sushi bar, where the atmosphere is coziest, and you can watch the chefs at work. My mother likes the tempura combination with veggies, shrimp, and scallops. On an odd night, I’ll order the salmon teriyaki, but most nights I have sushi, particularly the anago and spicy tuna roll—though if you’re daring, you might try the Santa Fe Roll (with green chile, shrimp tempura, and masago). Wine, imported beers, and hot sake are available.

321 Johnson St. 505/982-9708. Reservations recommended. Main courses $5–$19 lunch, $8.50–$25 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm.

Vinaigrette ★★ BISTRO This new restaurant serves inventive salads, soups, and sandwiches on one of the city’s best patios. It’s a delightful place to sit and sip herbal iced tea under shade trees, but allow plenty of time because the patio fills quickly. Inside, vermillion-colored chairs and butcher-block tables create a contemporary ambience that appeals to some more than others and tends to be noisy. Still, the food uses seasonal ingredients, much of them sourced from the chef’s own farm in Nambé, north of Santa Fe. The salad selections include classics such as a Greek and Cobb, but also signature ones such as an Asian beef—marinated steak over arugula, roasted cherry tomatoes, and rice noodles with a Thai peanut vinaigrette. Daily soup and sandwich specials also accompany the regular menu, as does an inventive wine and beer list.

709 Don Cubero Alley. 505/820-9205. Reservations accepted for dinner only. Main courses $8–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm.

Inexpensive

Blue Corn Cafe ★ NEW MEXICAN/MICROBREWERY Within a breezy decor—wooden tables and abstract art—you’ll find a raucous and buoyant atmosphere. The overworked waitstaff may be slow, but they’re friendly. I recommend sampling dishes from the combination menu, which includes such favorites as enchiladas and tamales. You can get two to five items served with your choice of rice, beans, or one of the best posoles (hominy and chile) that I’ve tasted. Kids have their own menu and crayons to keep them occupied. Nightly specials include the tasty shrimp fajitas, served with guacamole and the usual toppings. Because this is also a brewery, you might want to sample the High Altitude Pale Ale or Sleeping Dog Stout. My beverage choice is the prickly-pear iced tea (black tea with enough cactus juice to give it a zing). The Spanish flan is tasty and large enough to share. The Blue Corn Cafe & Brewery, 4056 Cerrillos Rd., Suite G ( 505/438-1800), on the south side at the corner of Cerrillos and Rodeo roads, has similar fare and atmosphere.

133 W. Water St. 505/984-1800. www.bluecorncafe.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $10–$12. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

Body ★★ ASIAN/HEALTH FOOD My best friend and I eat lunch here every week in order to partake of the calming atmosphere. The cafe atmosphere is quiet, with wood floors and dark wood tables. The service, though good-natured, seems to be perpetually in training. The main draws for us are the mostly organic offerings that always leave us feeling healthy. Breakfast, served all day, includes an excellent granola and a number of egg dishes such as an omelet with goat cheese, basil pesto, tomatoes, and spinach, served with potatoes and toast. Lunch and dinner (same menu) offer such simply delicious food as grilled vegetables with tofu (or chicken or salmon, if you’d prefer), and a very light lemon grass, coconut, and ginger curry, with lots of vegetables. Salads, sandwiches, and a selection of raw entrees round out the menu, as well as smoothies, chai tea, and desserts such as a yummy mixed berry pie. Organic beers and wines are offered as well.

333 Cordova Rd. 505/986-0362. www.bodyofsantafe.com. Main courses $6–$11. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.

Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill ★ MEXICAN This new “beestro” offers a refreshing twist on fast food: It’s actually healthy! The secret? Tacos are made Mexican style, with a tortilla folded around quality meat, fish, and poultry grilled with veggies. You pick from an array of salsas. Waist watchers can sample from a selection of salads, including one with grilled chicken and avocado. Rotisserie chicken and various burritos round out the main menu, while kids have their own options, such as the quesadillas. Diners order at a counter, and a waiter brings the food. The decor is a bit Formica-esque for my tastes, though the primary colors are fun. During warm months, I try to nab a patio table. Evenings often offer live jazz music, when folks sit back and sip beer and wine. There’s also a drive-through window. There’s another Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill at 3777 Cerrillos Rd ( 505/988-3278), with similar decor and offerings, on the south side of town.

301 Jefferson St. (from W. San Francisco St., take Guadalupe 2 blocks north). 505/820-2862. www.bumblebeesbajagrill.com. Main courses $7–$12. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Guadalupe Cafe ★★ NEW MEXICAN A real locals’ choice for New Mexican food, this casually elegant cafe occupies a white stucco building that’s warm and friendly and has a nice-size patio for dining in warmer months. Service is conscientious. For breakfast, try the spinach-mushroom burritos or huevos rancheros, and for lunch, the chalupas or stuffed sopaipillas. Any other time, I’d start with fresh roasted ancho chiles (filled with a combination of Montrachet and Monterey Jack cheeses and piñon nuts, and topped with your choice of chile) and move on to the sour-cream chicken enchilada or any of the other New Mexican dishes. Order both red and green chile (“Christmas”) so that you can sample some of the best sauces in town. Beware, though: The chile here can be hot, and the chef won’t put it on the side. Diners can order from a choice of delicious salads, such as a Caesar with chicken. Daily specials are available, and don’t miss the famous chocolate-amaretto adobe pie for dessert. Beer and wine are served.

422 Old Santa Fe Trail. 505/982-9762. Main courses $5.50–$10 breakfast, $6–$12 lunch, $8–$17 dinner. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 7am–2pm; Sat–Sun 8am–2pm; Tues–Sat 5–9pm.

La Choza ★★ NEW MEXICAN This sister restaurant of the Shed (see below) offers some of the best New Mexican food in town at a convenient location near the intersection of Cerrillos Road and St. Francis Drive. When other restaurants are packed, you’ll only wait a little while here. It’s a warm, casual eatery with vividly painted walls; it’s especially popular on cold days, when diners gather around the wood-burning stove and fireplace. The patio is delightful in summer. Service is friendly and efficient. The menu offers enchiladas, tacos, and burritos, as well as green-chile stew, chile con carne, and carne adovada. The portions are medium size, so if you’re hungry, start with guacamole or nachos. For dessert, you can’t leave without trying the mocha cake (chocolate cake with a mocha pudding filling, served with whipped cream). Vegetarians and children have their own menus. Beer and wine are available. La Choza now boasts a full bar.

905 Alarid St. 505/982-0909. Main courses $9–$12. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 5–9pm; winter Mon–Thurs 11am–2:30pm and 5–8pm, Fri–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 5–9pm.

Plaza Cafe ★ AMERICAN/DELI/NEW MEXICAN/GREEK Santa Fe’s best example of diner-style eating, this cafe has excellent food in a bright and friendly atmosphere right on the plaza. A restaurant since the turn of the 20th century, the decor has changed only enough to stay comfortable and clean, with red upholstered banquettes, Art Deco tile, and a soda fountain–style service counter. Service is always quick and conscientious, and only during the heavy tourist seasons will you have to wait long for a table. Breakfasts are excellent and large, and the hamburgers and sandwiches at lunch and dinner are good. I also like the soups and New Mexican dishes, such as the bowl of green-chile stew, or, if you’re more adventurous, the pumpkin posole. Check out the Greek dishes, such as vegetable moussaka or beef and lamb gyros. Beer and wine are available.

54 Lincoln Ave. (on the plaza). 505/982-1664. www.thefamousplazacafe.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.

The Shed ★★ NEW MEXICAN This longtime locals’ favorite is so popular that during lunch lines often form outside. Half a block east of the plaza and a luncheon institution since 1953, it occupies several rooms and the patio of a rambling hacienda that was built in 1692. Festive folk art adorns the doorways and walls. The food is delicious, some of the best in the state, and a fine example of traditional Hispanic and Pueblo cooking. The red-chile cheese enchilada is renowned in Santa Fe. Tacos and burritos are good, too. The green-chile stew is a local favorite. The Shed has added vegetarian and low-fat Mexican foods to the menu, as well as a variety of soups and salads and grilled chicken and steak. Don’t leave without trying the mocha cake, possibly the best dessert you’ll ever eat. In addition to wine and a number of beers, there’s full bar service. The cantina-style bar is a fun place to schmooze, and the brick patio is well shaded.

113 1/2 E. Palace Ave. 505/982-9030. www.sfshed.com. Reservations accepted at dinner. Main courses $6.75–$11 lunch, $8–$19 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 5:30–9pm. Bar opens at 4pm.

Tomasita’s Cafe ★ NEW MEXICAN When I was in high school, I used to eat at Tomasita’s, a little dive on a back street. I always ordered a burrito, and I think people used to bring liquor in bags. It’s now in a modern building near the train station, and its food has become renowned. The atmosphere is simple—hanging plants and wood accents—with lots of families sitting at booths or tables and a festive spillover from the bar, where many come to drink margaritas. Service is quick, even a little rushed, which is my biggest gripe about Tomasita’s. Sure, the food is still tasty, but unless you go at some totally odd hour, you’ll wait for a table, and once you’re seated, you may eat and be out again in less than an hour. The burritos are still excellent, though you may want to try the chile rellenos, a house specialty. Vegetarian dishes, burgers, steaks, and daily specials are also offered. There’s full bar service.

500 S. Guadalupe St. 505/983-5721. Main courses $6–$15 lunch, $6.25–$16 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm.

Dining on the outskirts

If you’re on the south or east side of Santa Fe, you might want to try some of the excellent restaurants on the city’s outskirts. Toward the east is the famed Harry’s Roadhouse ★★, Old Las Vegas Highway ( 505/989-4629), always packed with locals, but worth a wait to sample from their menu of inventive diner-style food. Try the burgers or the salmon with a mustard glaze. It’s open daily 7am to 9:30pm. Also in that vicinity, try Real Food Nation ★★, 624 Old Las Vegas Hwy. ( 505/466-3886; www.realfoodnation.biz). Greenhouses, orchards, and gardens are on-site, so nearly every item is locally grown. Their veggie burger is homemade and hearty, and the cookies are big enough to share.

The North Side

Moderate

Tesuque Village Market ★ AMERICAN/NEW MEXICAN Located under a canopy of cottonwoods at the center of this quaint village, the restaurant doesn’t have the greatest food but makes for a nice adventure 10 minutes north of town. During warmer months, you can sit on the porch; in other seasons, the interior is comfortable, with plain wooden tables next to a deli counter and upscale market. For me, this is a breakfast place, where blue-corn pancakes rule. Friends of mine like the breakfast burritos and huevos rancheros. Lunch and dinner are also popular, and there’s always a crowd (though, if you have to wait for a table, the wait is usually brief). For lunch, I recommend the burgers, and for dinner, one of the hearty specials, such as lasagna. A kids’ menu is available.

At the junction of Bishop’s Lodge Rd. and NM 591, in Tesuque Village. 505/988-8848. www.tesuquevillagemarket.com. Reservations recommended for holidays. Main courses $4–$15 breakfast, $7–$14 lunch and dinner. MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.

Dining on the outskirts—north

If you’d like to take a little drive en route to dinner, or are cruising into Santa Fe from the north, you’ll find a number of excellent dining options. You can have a little history with your crab cakes or filet mignon at Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar ★★ at Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa, 1297 Bishop’s Lodge Rd. ( 505/819-4035; www.bishopslodge.com). When you finish feasting, ask for a key at the front desk and then take a short walk up some steps to the 1853 chapel, which once served as Bishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy’s retreat. Las Fuentes is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Among the pink hills north of Santa Fe at Encantado Resort, Terra ★★, 198 NM 592 ( 877/262-4666; www.encantadoresort.com) serves New American cuisine with one of the city’s finest sunset views. You might try lobster spaghettini. Terra is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Feast on the region’s best guacamole, mixed tableside at Gabriel’s ★★ on US 84/285 ( 505/455-7000; www.restauranteur.com/gabriels), 15 minutes north of Santa Fe. The steak tacos are excellent. The restaurant is open Sunday to Thursday 11:30am to 9pm and Friday and Saturday 11:30am to 10pm.

South Side

Santa Fe’s motel strip and other streets south of Paseo de Peralta have their share of good, reasonably priced restaurants. Take note that the highly recommended Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill and the Blue Corn Cafe have a south-side location (see above for both). Also, Marisco’s La Playa has a second location on Cerrillos Road, called Marisco’s Costa Azul.

Moderate

Mu Du Noodles ★★ ASIAN If you’re ready for a light, healthy meal with lots of flavor, head to this small restaurant about an 8-minute drive from downtown. The two main rooms, with coral- and butter-colored walls, plain pine tables and chairs, and Asian prints on the walls provide a cozy ambience. The woodsy-feeling patio is definitely worth requesting during the warmer months. Chef Mu uses organic produce and meats and wild seafood whenever she can. My favorite appetizer is the lamb martabak, Indonesian dumplings served with a cilantro-mint dipping sauce. For an entree I often order the Malaysian laksa, thick rice noodles in a blend of coconut milk, hazelnuts, onions, and red curry, stir-fried with chicken or tofu and julienned vegetables and sprouts. If you’re eating with others, you may each want to order a different dish and share. Definitely check out the daily specials, which usually include a fish dish. An interesting selection of beers, wines, and boutique sakes is available, tailored to the menu.

1494 Cerrillos Rd. 505/983-1411. www.mudunoodles.com. Reservations for parties of 3 or larger only. Main courses $9–$18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5:30–9pm (sometimes 10pm in summer).

Second Street Brewery ★ MICROBREWERY/AMERICAN In both its 2nd Street location and its Santa Fe Railyard one, this brewery creates a lively pub scene and fairly warm atmosphere. The decor includes contemporary art and wooden tables. It’s a party type of place, especially during the warm months, when diners and beer drinkers sit out on the patio. The beers are quite tasty, and you can get a 4-ounce sampler size for $1.25 and try a few different brews. The food isn’t extremely memorable, but in winter, it can warm a hearty appetite with such home-style dishes as chicken potpie (as a special) and shepherd’s pie. The fish and chips is a big seller, as are the burgers topped with green chile and cheese. The menu also offers lighter fare, such as quiches, soups, and salads. There’s a kids’ menu, and wines are available. Look for their “Hoppy” Hour, when beer prices are reduced. There are also darts all the time and live entertainment several nights a week.

1814 2nd St. (at the railroad tracks). 505/982-3030. Downtown Railyard location: 1607 Paseo del Peralta. 505/989-3278. www.secondstreetbrewery.com. Main courses $5–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm (bar until later); Sun noon–9pm.