What to See & Do

Downtown Santa Fe Attractions

One of the oldest cities in the United States, Santa Fe has long been a center for the creative and performing arts, so it’s not surprising that most of the city’s major sights are related to local history and the arts. The city’s Museum of New Mexico, art galleries and studios, historic churches, and cultural sights associated with local Native American and Hispanic communities all merit a visit. It would be easy to spend a full week sightseeing in the city, without ever heading out to any nearby attractions.

The Top Attractions

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum ★★ The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, inaugurated in July 1997, contains the largest collection of O’Keeffes in the world: currently 1,149 paintings, drawings, and sculptures, and 1,851 works by other artists of note. It’s the largest museum in the United States dedicated solely to an internationally known woman artist. You can see such remarkable O’Keeffes as Jimson Weed, painted in 1932, and Evening Star No. VI, from 1917. The museum presents special exhibitions that are either devoted entirely to O’Keeffe’s work or combine examples of her art with works by her American modernist contemporaries. My favorite in recent years brought together works of O’Keeffe and photographer Ansel Adams. The rich and varied collection adorns the walls of a cathedral-like, 13,000-square-foot space—a former Baptist church with adobe walls. O’Keeffe’s images are tied inextricably to local desert landscapes. She first visited New Mexico in 1929 and returned for extended periods from the ’20s through the ’40s. In 1949 she moved here permanently. An excellent film at the museum depicts her life.

217 Johnson St. 505/946-1000. www.okeeffemuseum.org. Admission $9, free for students and children 18 and under, free for all first Fri of each month 5–8pm. Daily 10am–5pm (Fri until 8pm). Closed Tues Nov–May.

New Mexico History Museum and the Palace of the Governors ★★ Open in 2009, the New Mexico History Museum presents the state’s unique role in world history. Set in 96,000 square feet of exhibit space, the museum offers visitors an interactive experience utilizing voice recordings, music and electronic media to explore the region occupied by Pueblo, Navajo, and Apache people, followed by the arrival of the Spanish in the 1500s, and, finally, the present day.

You’ll enter through the Palace of the Governors. Built in 1610 as the original capital of New Mexico, the palace has been in continuous public use longer than any other structure in the United States. Its defining moment was when the Pueblo people took it over during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. Begin out front, where Native Americans sell jewelry, pottery, and some weavings under the protection of the portal. This is a good place to buy, and it’s a fun place to shop, especially if you take the time to visit with the artisans about their work. When you buy a piece, you may learn its history, a treasure as valuable as the piece itself. Plan to spend 2 or more hours exploring the museum and shopping here.

Two shops are of particular interest. One is the bookstore/gift shop, which has an excellent selection of art, history, and anthropology books. The other is the print shop and bindery, where limited-edition works are produced on hand-operated presses. Free docent tours are offered daily, as are downtown walking tours April through October. Call for the schedule.

North plaza. 505/476-5100. www.palaceofthegovernors.org. Admission $8 adults, free for children 16 and under, free for all Fri 5–8pm. 4-day passes (good at all branches of the Museum of New Mexico and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art) $20 for adults. Tues–Sun in winter and daily in summer 10am–5pm (Fri until 8pm).

New Mexico Museum of Art ★ Opposite the Palace of the Governors, this was one of the first Pueblo revival–style buildings constructed in Santa Fe (in 1917). The museum’s permanent collection of more than 20,000 works emphasizes regional art and includes landscapes and portraits by all the Taos masters, los Cincos Pintores (a 1920s organization of Santa Fe artists), and contemporary artists. The museum also has a collection of photographic works by such masters as Ansel Adams and Eliot Porter. Modern artists are featured in temporary exhibits throughout the year. Two sculpture gardens present a range of three-dimensional art, from the traditional to the abstract.

Graceful St. Francis Auditorium, patterned after the interiors of traditional Hispanic mission churches, adjoins the art museum. A museum shop sells gifts, art books, prints, and postcards of the collection.

107 W. Palace (at Lincoln Ave.). 505/476-5072. www.nmartmuseum.org. Admission $9 adults, free for seniors Wed, free for children 16 and under, free for all Fri 5–8pm. 4-day passes (good at all branches of the Museum of New Mexico and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art) $20 for adults. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (Fri until 8pm). Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas.

museum Bingeing

If you’re a museum buff, pick up a Museum of New Mexico’s 4-day pass. It’s good at all branches of the Museum of New Mexico: the Palace of the Governors, the Museum of Art, the Museum of International Folk Art, and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, with the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art thrown in for good measure. The cost is $20 for adults. Also ask about the new Culture Pass, which provides full one-time admission to each of the state’s 14 museums during a 12-month period for $25.

St. Francis Cathedral ★ Santa Fe’s grandest religious structure is an architectural anomaly in Santa Fe because its design is French. Just a block east of the plaza, it was built between 1869 and 1886 by Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy in the style of the great cathedrals of Europe. French architects designed the Romanesque building—named after Santa Fe’s patron saint—and Italian masons assisted with its construction. The small adobe Our Lady of the Rosary chapel on the northeast side of the cathedral has a Spanish look. Built in 1807, it’s the only portion that remains from Our Lady of the Assumption Church, founded along with Santa Fe in 1610. The new cathedral was built over and around the old church.

A wooden icon set in a niche in the wall of the north chapel, Our Lady of Peace, is the oldest representation of the Madonna in the United States. Rescued from the old church during the 1680 Pueblo Rebellion, it was brought back by Don Diego de Vargas on his (mostly peaceful) reconquest 12 years later—thus, the name. Today, Our Lady of Peace plays an important part in the annual Feast of Corpus Christi in June and July.

The cathedral’s front doors feature 16 carved panels of historic note and a plaque memorializing the 38 Franciscan friars who were martyred during New Mexico’s early years. There’s also a large bronze statue of Archbishop Lamy himself; his grave is under the main altar of the cathedral.

Cathedral Place at San Francisco St. 505/982-5619. Donations appreciated. Daily 8am–5pm. Mass Mon–Sat 7am and 5:15pm; Sun 8, 10am, noon, and 5:15pm. Free parking in city lot next to the cathedral.

Santa Fe Plaza ★★ This square has been the heart and soul of Santa Fe, as well as its literal center, since the city was established in 1610. Originally designed as a meeting place, it has been the site of innumerable festivals and other historical, cultural, and social events. Long ago the plaza was a dusty hive of activity as the staging ground and terminus of the Santa Fe Trail. Today, those who congregate around the central monument enjoy the best people-watching in New Mexico. Live music and dancing are often staged on the gazebo/bandstand in summer. At Christmastime the plaza is decked out with lights. Santa Feans understandably feel nostalgic for the days when the plaza, now the hub of the tourist trade, still belonged to locals rather than outside commercial interests.

At the corner of San Francisco St. and Lincoln Ave. Daily 24 hr.

More Attractions

Institute of American Indian Arts Museum ★ A visit to this museum (with more than 7,000 works, often called the “national collection of contemporary Native American art”) offers a profound look into the lives of a people negotiating two worlds: traditional and contemporary. Here, you’ll see cutting-edge art that pushes the limits of many media, from creative writing to textile manufacturing to painting. Much of the work originates from artists from the Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA), the nation’s only congressionally chartered institute of higher education devoted solely to the study and practice of the artistic and cultural traditions of all American Indian and Alaska Native peoples.

Exhibits change periodically, while a more permanent collection of Allan Houser’s monumental sculpture is on display in the museum’s Art Park. The museum store offers a broad collection of contemporary jewelry, pottery, and other crafts, as well as books and music.

108 Cathedral Place. 505/983-1777. www.iaia.edu. Admission $5 adults, $2.50 seniors and students, free for children 16 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm.

Cultural Chow

If you get hungry while visiting the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, the Museum of International Folk Art, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art (all located together, southeast of the plaza), you can now feast on more than your fingernails. The Museum Hill Café ★, 710 Camino Lejo ( 505/984-8900), is open daily for breakfast and lunch from 9am to 5pm, and for a light dinner on Friday until 8pm.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture ★★ An interactive permanent exhibit here has made this one of the most exciting Native American museum experiences in the Southwest. “Here, Now and Always” takes visitors through thousands of years of Native American history. More than 70,000 pieces of basketry, pottery, clothing, carpets, and jewelry—much of it quite old—are on continual rotating display. You begin by entering through a tunnel that symbolizes the sipapu, the ancestral Puebloan entrance into the upper worlds; you’re greeted by the sounds of trickling water, drums, and Native American music. Videos show Native Americans telling creation stories. Visitors can reflect on the lives of modern-day Native Americans by seeing a traditional Pueblo kitchen juxtaposed with a modern kitchen. You can step into a Navajo hogan (log and mud hut) and stroll through a trading post. The rest of the museum houses an expansive pottery collection as well as changing exhibits. There’s always a contemporary show.

Look for demonstrations of traditional skills by tribal artisans and regular programs in a 70-seat multimedia theater. Call for information on year-round lectures and classes on native traditions and arts, as well as performances of Native American music and dancing by tribal groups. The Roland Discovery Corner offers space for kids to build puzzles and stack fake sandstone into a house. The museum shop offers a broad range of jewelry, pottery, books, and music.

710 Camino Lejo. 505/476-1250. www.miaclab.org. Admission $9 adults, free for children 16 and under. 4-day passes (good at all branches of the Museum of New Mexico and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art) $20 for adults. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (also Mon in summer). Drive southeast on Old Santa Fe Trail (beware: Old Santa Fe Trail takes a left turn; if you find yourself on Old Pecos Trail, you missed the turn). Look for signs pointing right onto Camino Lejo.

Museum of International Folk Art ★★★ This branch of the Museum of New Mexico may not seem quite as typically Southwestern as other Santa Fe museums, but it’s the largest of its kind in the world. With a collection of some 130,000 objects from more than 100 countries, it’s my favorite city museum, well worth an hour or two of perusing. It was founded in 1953 by the Chicago collector Florence Dibell Bartlett, who said, “If peoples of different countries could have the opportunity to study each other’s cultures, it would be one avenue for a closer understanding between men.” That’s the basis on which the museum operates today.

The special collections include Spanish colonial silver, traditional and contemporary New Mexican religious art, Mexican tribal costumes and majolica ceramics, Brazilian folk art, European glass, African sculptures, and East Indian textiles. Particularly delightful are numerous dioramas of people around the world at work and play in typical town, village, and home settings, which children enjoy.

The Hispanic Heritage Wing houses a fine collection of Spanish colonial and contemporary Hispanic folk art. Folk-art demonstrations, performances, and workshops are often presented here. The 80,000-square-foot museum also has a lecture room, a research library, and two gift shops, where a variety of folk art is available for purchase.

706 Camino Lejo. 505/476-1200. www.moifa.org. Admission $9 adults, free for children 16 and under. 4-day passes (good at all branches of the Museum of New Mexico and at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art) $20 for adults. Daily 10am–5pm (closed Mon Labor Day to Memorial Day). The museum is about 2 miles southeast of the plaza. Drive southeast on Old Santa Fe Trail (beware: Old Santa Fe Trail takes a left turn; if you find yourself on Old Pecos Trail, you missed the turn). Look for signs pointing right onto Camino Lejo.

Museum of Spanish Colonial Art ★ Ironically, beauty sometimes follows in the wake of imperialism. A good example of this is Spanish colonial art, which has flourished from Europe across the Americas and even in the Philippines. This newer museum, located in the same compound as the Museum of International Folk Art, the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, celebrates this art with a collection of 3,000 devotional and decorative works and utilitarian artifacts. Housed in a home built by noted architect John Gaw Meem, the museum displays retablos (religious paintings on wood), bultos (free-standing religious sculptures), furniture, metalwork, and textiles and, outside, an 18th-century wooden colonial house from Mexico.

750 Camino Lejo. 505/982-2226. www.spanishcolonial.org. Admission $9 adults, free for children 16 and under. 4-day passes (good at all branches of the Museum of New Mexico and this one) $20 for adults. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. The museum is located about 2 miles southeast of the plaza. Drive southeast on Old Santa Fe Trail (beware: Old Santa Fe Trail takes a left turn; if you find yourself on Old Pecos Trail, you missed the turn). Look for signs pointing right onto Camino Lejo.

SITE Santa Fe ★ This not-for-profit, 18,000-square-foot contemporary art space without a permanent collection has made a place for itself in the City Different, as well as in the international art scene. It’s no wonder, with shows by some of the world’s most noted contemporary artists. As well as bringing cutting-edge visual art to Santa Fe, SITE sponsors an art and culture series of lectures, multidisciplinary programs, and artist dialogues.

1606 Paseo de Peralta. 505/989-1199. www.sitesantafe.org. $10 adults, $5 students and seniors, free for SITE Santa Fe members, free for all Fri–Sat 10–noon during the Farmer’s Market. Wed–Sat 10am–5pm (Fri until 7pm); Sun noon–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day. Call for information about docent tours and tours in Spanish.

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian ★ Next door to the folk art museum, this museum resembles a Navajo hogan, with its doorway facing east (toward the rising sun) and its ceiling formed in the interlocking “whirling log” style. It was founded in 1937 by Boston scholar Mary Cabot Wheelwright, in collaboration with a Navajo medicine man, Hastiin Klah, to preserve and document Navajo ritual beliefs and practices. Klah took the designs of sand paintings used in healing ceremonies and adapted them into the woven pictographs that are a major part of the museum’s treasure. In 1976, the museum’s focus was altered to include the living arts of all Native American cultures. The museum offers three or four exhibits per year. You may see a basketry exhibit, mixed-media Navajo toys, or contemporary Navajo rugs. An added treat here is the Case Trading Post, an arts-and-crafts shop built to resemble the typical turn-of-the-20th-century trading post found on the Navajo reservation. Docent tours of the exhibition are Monday through Friday at 2pm and Saturday at 1pm. Year-round each Saturday and Tuesday morning at 10:15am and Sunday at 2pm, the Trading Post presents a lively and informative introduction to Southwestern Indian art. The museum has excellent access for travelers with disabilities. Best of all here are the storytelling sessions ★★ given by Joe Hayes, scheduled in July and August on Saturday and Sunday evenings at 7pm. Check the Web schedule for more details.

704 Camino Lejo. 800/607-4636 or 505/982-4636. Fax 505/989-7386. www.wheelwright.org. Donations appreciated. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas. Drive southeast on Old Santa Fe Trail (beware: Old Santa Fe Trail takes a left turn; if you find yourself on Old Pecos Trail, you missed the turn). Look for signs pointing right onto Camino Lejo.

Churches

Loretto Chapel Museum ★★ Though no longer consecrated for worship, the Loretto Chapel is an important site in Santa Fe. Patterned after the famous Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, it was constructed in 1873—by the same French architects and Italian masons who were building Archbishop Lamy’s cathedral—as a chapel for the Sisters of Loretto, who had established a school for young women in Santa Fe in 1852.

The chapel is especially notable for its remarkable spiral staircase: It makes two complete 360-degree turns, with no central or other visible support. The structure is steeped in legend. The building was nearly finished in 1878, when workers realized the stairs to the choir loft wouldn’t fit. Hoping for a solution more attractive than a ladder, the sisters made a novena (9-day prayer) to St. Joseph—and were rewarded when a mysterious carpenter appeared astride a donkey and offered to build a staircase. Armed with only a saw, a hammer, and a T-square, the master constructed this work of genius by soaking slats of wood in tubs of water to curve them and holding them together with wooden pegs. Then he disappeared without bothering to collect his fee.

207 Old Santa Fe Trail (btw. Alameda and Water sts.). 505/982-0092. www.lorettochapel.com. Admission $2.50 adults, $2 children 7–12 and seniors 65 and over, free for children 6 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10:30am–5pm.

Mission of San Miguel If you really want to get the feel of colonial Catholicism, visit this church. Better yet, attend Mass here. You won’t be disappointed. Built in 1610, the church has massive adobe walls, high windows, an elegant altar screen (erected in 1798), and a 780-pound San José bell (now found inside), which was cast in Spain in 1356. It also houses buffalo-hide and deerskin Bible paintings used in 1630 by Franciscan missionaries to teach the Native Americans. Anthropologists have excavated near the altar, down to the original floor that some claim to be part of a 12th-century pueblo. A small store just off the sanctuary sells religious articles.

401 Old Santa Fe Trail (at E. de Vargas St.). 505/983-3974. Admission $1 adults, free for children 6 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 9am–4pm. Summer hours start earlier. Mass Sun 5pm.

Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe ★ This church, built between 1776 and 1796 at the end of El Camino Real by Franciscan missionaries, is believed to be the oldest shrine in the United States honoring the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico. Better known as Santuario de Guadalupe, the shrine’s adobe walls are almost 3 feet thick, and the deep-red plaster wall behind the altar was dyed with oxblood in traditional fashion when the church was restored early in the 20th century.

It is well worth a visit to see photographs of the transformation of the building over time; its styles have ranged from flat-topped pueblo to New England town meeting and today’s northern New Mexico style. On one wall is a famous oil painting, Our Lady of Guadalupe, created in 1783 by the renowned Mexican artist José de Alzibar. Painted expressly for this church, it was brought from Mexico City by mule caravan. One of Santa Fe’s newest landmarks, the graceful 12-foot, 4,000-pound statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe by Mexican sculptor Georgina “Gogy” Farias, was erected in 2008.

100 S. Guadalupe St. 505/983-8868. Donations appreciated. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm. Labor Day to Memorial Day Sun–Fri 9am–6pm. Mass Mon–Fri 6:30am, Sun noon.

Parks & Refuges

Old Fort Marcy Park Marking the 1846 site of the first U.S. military reservation in the Southwest, this park overlooks the northeast corner of downtown. Only a few mounds remain from the fort, but the Cross of the Martyrs, at the top of a winding brick walkway from Paseo de Peralta near Otero Street, is a popular spot for bird’s-eye photographs. The cross was erected in 1920 by the Knights of Columbus and the Historical Society of New Mexico to commemorate the Franciscans killed during the Pueblo Rebellion of 1680. It has since played a role in numerous religious processions. The park is open daily 24 hours, though it’s dark and not safe at night.

617 Paseo de Peralta (or travel 3 blocks up Artist Rd. and turn right).

Randall Davey Audubon Center ★ Named for the late Santa Fe artist who willed his home to the National Audubon Society, this wildlife refuge occupies 135 acres at the mouth of Santa Fe Canyon. Just a few minutes’ drive from the plaza, it’s an excellent escape. More than 100 species of birds and 120 types of plants live here, and varied mammals have been spotted—including black bears, mule deer, mountain lions, bobcats, raccoons, and coyotes. Trails winding through more than 100 acres of the nature sanctuary are open to day hikers, but not to dogs. There’s also a natural history bookstore on site.

1800 Upper Canyon Rd. 505/983-4609. http://nm.audubon.org. Trail admission $2 adults, $1 children. Daily 9am–5pm. House tours conducted Mon and Fri at 2pm, $5 per person. Free 1-hr. guided bird walk Sat at 8:30am. Gift shop daily 10am–4pm (call for winter hours).

Santa Fe River Park This is a lovely spot for an early morning jog, a midday walk beneath the trees, or perhaps a sack lunch at a picnic table. The green strip follows the midtown stream for about 4 miles as it meanders along Alameda from St. Francis Drive upstream beyond Camino Cabra, near its source. It’s open daily 24 hours, but it’s not safe at night.

Alameda St. 505/955-6977.

Other Attractions

El Rancho de las Golondrinas ★★ This 200-acre ranch, about 15 minutes south of the plaza via I-25, was once the last stopping place on the 1,000-mile El Camino Real from Mexico City to Santa Fe. Today, it’s a living 18th- and 19th-century Spanish village, comprising a hacienda, a village store, a schoolhouse, and several chapels and kitchens. There’s also a working molasses mill, wheelwright and blacksmith shops, shearing and weaving rooms, a threshing ground, a winery and vineyard, and four water mills, as well as dozens of farm animals. A walk around the entire property is 1 3/4 miles in length, with amazing scenery and plenty of room for the kids to romp.

The Spring Festival (the first full weekend of June) and the Harvest Festival (the first full weekend of Oct) are the year’s highlights at Las Golondrinas (the Swallows). On these festival Sundays, the museum opens with a procession and Mass dedicated to San Ysidro, patron saint of farmers. Volunteers in authentic costumes demonstrate shearing, spinning, weaving, embroidery, woodcarving, grain milling, blacksmithing, tinsmithing, soap making, and other activities. There’s an exciting atmosphere of Spanish folk dancing, music, theater, and food.

334 Los Pinos Rd. 505/471-2261. www.golondrinas.org. Admission $6 adults, $4 seniors and teens, $2 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Festival weekends $8 adults, $5 seniors and teens, $3 children 5–12. June–Sept Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; Apr–May and Oct by advance arrangement. From Santa Fe, drive south on I-25, taking exit 276; this will lead to NM 599 going north; turn left on W. Frontage Rd.; drive 1⁄2 mile; turn right on Los Pinos Rd.; travel 3 miles to the museum.

New Mexico State Capitol (Roundhouse) This is the only round capitol building in the U.S. Built in 1966, it’s designed in the shape of a Zia Pueblo emblem (or sun sign, which is also the state symbol). It symbolizes the Circle of Life: four winds, four seasons, four directions, and four sacred obligations. Surrounding the capitol is a lush 6 1/2-acre garden boasting more than 100 varieties of plants, including roses, plums, almonds, nectarines, Russian olive trees, and sequoias. Inside you’ll find standard functional offices, with New Mexican art hanging on the walls. Check out the Governor’s Gallery and the Capitol Art Collection. Self-guided tours are available year-round Monday through Friday 7am to 6pm; Memorial Day to Labor Day guided tours are available Monday through Saturday at 10am and 2pm. All tours and self-guided brochures are free to the public.

Paseo de Peralta and Old Santa Fe Trail. 505/986-4589. www.legis.state.nm.us. Free admission. Memorial Day to last Sat in Aug Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, tours Sat 10am and 2pm; rest of year Mon–Fri 7am–6pm, tours by appointment. Free parking.

Santa Fe Southern Railway ★ “Riding the old Santa Fe” always referred to riding the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroad. Ironically, the main route of the AT&SF bypassed Santa Fe, which probably forestalled some development for the capital city. A spur was run off the main line to Santa Fe in 1880, and today, an 18-mile ride along that spur offers views of some of New Mexico’s most spectacular scenery.

The Santa Fe Depot is a well-preserved tribute to the Mission architecture that the railroad brought to the West in the early 1900s. Characterized by light-colored stuccoed walls, arched openings, and tiled roofs, this style was part of an architectural revolution in Santa Fe at a time when builders snubbed the traditional pueblo style.

Inside the restored coach, passengers are surrounded by aged mahogany and faded velvet seats. The train snakes through Santa Fe and into the Galisteo Basin, broad landscapes spotted with piñon and chamisa, with views of the Sandia and Ortiz mountains. Arriving in the small track town of Lamy, you get another glimpse of a Mission-style station, this one surrounded by spacious lawns where passengers picnic. Check out the sunset rides on weekends and specialty trains throughout the year.

410 S. Guadalupe St. 888/989-8600 or 505/989-8600. Fax 505/983-7620. www.thetraininsantafe.com. Tickets $32 adults, $18 children 3–13; evening High Ball Train $28–$35 adults, children not encouraged; evening Barbecue Train $58–$70 adults, $35–$55 children. Discounts available. Depending on the season, trains depart the Santa Fe Depot (call to check schedule) 9:30am–1pm Mon–Sat. Rides also available Fri–Sat evening and Sun afternoon.

Cooking, Art & Photography Classes

If you’re looking for something to do that’s a little off the beaten tourist path, you might consider taking a class.

You can master the flavors of Santa Fe with an entertaining 3-hour demonstration cooking class at the Santa Fe School of Cooking and Market ★, on the upper level of the Plaza Mercado, 116 W. San Francisco St. ( 800/982-4688 or 505/983-4511; www.santafeschoolofcooking.com). The class teaches about the flavors and history of traditional New Mexican and contemporary Southwestern cuisines. “Cooking Light” classes are available as well. Prices range from $40 to $150 and include a meal; call for a class schedule. The adjoining market offers a variety of regional foods and cookbooks, with gift baskets available.

If Southwestern art has you hooked, you can take a drawing and painting class led by Santa Fe artist Jane Shoenfeld. Students sketch such outdoor subjects as the Santa Fe landscape and adobe architecture. In case of inclement weather, classes are held in the studio. Each class lasts for 3 hours, and art materials are included in the fee, which is $125. Private lessons can also be arranged. All levels of experience are welcome. Children’s classes can be arranged, and discounts are available for families. You can create your own personal art adventure with one of Shoenfeld’s 1-day classes at Ghost Ranch in Abiquiu. Contact Jane at Sketching Santa Fe ★, P.O. Box 5912, Santa Fe, NM 87502 ( 505/986-1108; www.skyfields.net).

Some of the world’s most outstanding photographers convene in Santa Fe at various times during the year for the Santa Fe Workshops ★★, P.O. Box 9916, Santa Fe, NM 87504, at a delightful campus in the hills on the east side of town ( 505/983-1400; www.santafeworkshops.com). Most courses are full time, lasting a week. Food and lodging packages are available.

Wine Tastings

If you enjoy sampling regional wines, consider visiting the wineries within easy driving distance of Santa Fe: Santa Fe Vineyards, with a retail outlet at 235 Don Gaspar Ave., in Santa Fe ( 505/982-3474; www.nmwine.com), or the vineyard itself about 20 miles north of Santa Fe to the Nambe Road on 106 W. Shining Sun ( 505/455-2826); and the Black Mesa Winery, 1502 Hwy. 68, in Velarde ( 800/852-6372), north on US 84/285 to NM 68 (about 1-hr. drive). Be sure to call in advance to find out when the wineries are open for tastings and to get specific directions.

Especially for Kids

Don’t miss taking the kids to the Museum of International Folk Art, where they’ll love the international dioramas and the toys. Also visit the tepee at the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, where storyteller Joe Hayes spins traditional Spanish cuentos, Native American folk tales, and Wild West tall tales on weekend evenings. The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa has extensive children’s programs during the summer. These include horseback riding, swimming, arts-and-crafts programs, and special activities such as archery and tennis. Kids are sure to enjoy El Rancho de las Golondrinas, a living 18th- and 19th-century Spanish village comprising a hacienda, a village store, a schoolhouse, and several chapels and kitchens.

The Genoveva Chavez Community Center, 3221 Rodeo Rd., is a full-service family recreation center on the south side of Santa Fe. The complex includes a 50m pool, a leisure pool, a therapy pool, an ice-skating rink, three gyms, a workout room, racquetball courts, and an indoor running track, as well as a spa and sauna. For hours and more information, call 505/955-4001 (www.chavezcenter.com).

Santa Fe Children’s Museum ★ This museum offers interactive exhibits and hands-on activities in the arts, humanities, and science. The most notable features include a 16-foot climbing wall that kids—outfitted with helmets and harnesses—can scale, and a 1-acre Southwestern horticulture garden, complete with animals, wetlands, and a greenhouse. This fascinating area serves as an outdoor classroom for ongoing environmental educational programs. Special performances and hands-on sessions with artists and scientists are regularly scheduled. Family Life magazine named this as one of the 10 hottest children’s museums in the nation.

1050 Old Pecos Trail. 505/989-8359. www.santafechildrensmuseum.org. Admission $8 for nonresidents; $4 New Mexico residents; $4 children 12 and under. Wed–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm.

Santa Fe Public Library Special programs, such as storytelling and magic shows, can be found here weekly throughout the summer. The library is in the center of town, 1 block from the plaza.

145 Washington Ave. 505/955-6780. www.santafelibrary.org. Mon–Thurs 10am–9pm; Fri–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 1–5pm. Call for information on current events.

Skateboard Park Split-level ramps for daredevils, park benches for onlookers, and climbing structures for youngsters are located at this park near downtown.

At the intersection of de Vargas and Sandoval sts. 505/955-2100. Free admission. Daily 24 hr.

Organized Tours

Bus, Car & Tram Tours

Loretto Line ★ For an open-air tour of the city covering history and sights, contact this company that has been running tours for some 20 years. Tours last 1 1/4 hours and are offered daily from April to October. They depart at 10am, noon, and 2pm—and sometimes more frequently in high summer.

At the Hotel Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail. Tours depart from the Loretto Chapel. 505/983-3701. www.toursofsantafe.com. Tours $14 adults, $10 children 12 and under.

Walking Tours

As with the independent strolls described above, the following are the best way to get an appreciable feel for Santa Fe’s history and culture.

Storytellers and the Southwest: A Literary Walking Tour ★ Barbara Harrelson, a former Smithsonian museum docent and local writer, takes you on a 2-hour literary walking tour of downtown, exploring the history, legends, characters, and authors of the region through its landmarks and historic sites. It’s a great way to absorb the unique character of Santa Fe. Tours take place by appointment. Harrelson’s book, Walks in Literary Santa Fe: A Guide to Landmarks, Legends, and Lore (Gibbs Smith) allows for self-guided tours and is available in local bookstores and online.

924 Old Taos Hwy. 505/989-4561. barbarah@newmexico.com. Apr–Oct. Tours $20 per person, with a $40 minimum.

Walking Tour of Santa Fe ★ One of Santa Fe’s best walking tours begins under the T-shirt tree at Tees & Skis, 107 Washington Ave., near the northeast corner of the plaza (daily at 9:30am and afternoons by reservation). It lasts about 2 1/2 hours. From November through March, the tour runs by reservation only.

54 1/2 E. San Francisco St. 800/338-6877 or 505/983-6565. Tours $10 adults, free for children 12 and under.

Miscellaneous Tours

Pathways Customized Tours ★ Don Dietz offers several planned tours, including a downtown Santa Fe walking tour, a full city tour, a trip to the cliff dwellings and native pueblos, a “Taos adventure,” and a trip to Georgia O’Keeffe country (with a focus on the landscape that inspired the art now viewable in the O’Keeffe Museum). He will try to accommodate any special requests you might have. These tours last anywhere from 2 to 9 hours, depending on the one you choose. Don has extensive knowledge of the area’s culture, history, geology, and flora and fauna, and will help you make the most of your precious vacation time.

161-F Calle Ojo Feliz. 505/982-5382. www.santafepathways.com. Tours for 2 or more people $60 (and up) per day. No credit cards.

Rain Parrish ★ A Navajo anthropologist, artist, and curator, Rain Parrish offers custom guide services focusing on cultural anthropology, Native American arts, and the history of the Native Americans of the Southwest. Some of these are true adventures to insider locations. Ms. Parrish includes visits to local Pueblo villages.

704 Kathryn St. 505/984-8236. 4-hr. tours for 2 people $135. Additional person $30 per hour, and discounted group rates available.

Santa Fe Detours ★ Santa Fe’s most extensive tour-booking agency accommodates almost all travelers’ tastes, from bus and rail tours to river rafting, backpacking, and cross-country skiing. The agency can also facilitate hotel reservations, from budget to high end.

54 1/2 E. San Francisco St. (summer tour desk, 107 Washington Ave.). 800/338-6877 or 505/983-6565. www.sfdetours.com.

Southwest Safaris ★★ This tour is one of the most interesting Southwestern experiences available. You’ll fly in a small plane 1,000 feet off the ground to various destinations while pilot Bruce Adams explains millions of years of geologic history. En route to the Grand Canyon, for instance, you may pass by the ancient ruins of Chaco Canyon and over the vivid colors of the Painted Desert, and then, of course, over the spectacular Grand Canyon itself. Trips to many Southwestern destinations are available.

Departs from Santa Fe Airport. 800/842-4246 or 505/988-4246. www.southwestsafaris.com. Tours $89–$799 per person.

Outdoor Activities

Set between the granite peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the subtler volcanic Jemez Mountains, and with the Rio Grande flowing through, the Santa Fe area offers outdoor enthusiasts many opportunities to play. This is the land of high desert, where temperatures vary with the elevation, allowing for a full range of activities throughout the year.

Ballooning

New Mexico is renowned for its spectacular Balloon Fiesta, which takes place annually in Albuquerque. If you want to take a ride, you’ll probably have to go to Albuquerque or Taos, but you can book your trip in Santa Fe through Santa Fe Detours, 54 1/2 E. San Francisco St. (tour desk for summer, 107 Washington Ave.; 800/338-6877 or 505/983-6565; www.sfdetours.com). Flights take place early in the day. Rates begin at around $175 a flight. If you have your heart set on a balloon flight, I suggest that you reserve a time early in your trip because flights are sometimes canceled due to bad weather. That way, if you have to reschedule, you’ll have enough time to do so.

Biking

You can cycle along main roadways and paved country roads year-round in Santa Fe, but be aware that traffic is particularly heavy around the plaza—and all over town, motorists are not particularly attentive to bicyclists, so you need to be especially alert. Mountain-biking interest has blossomed here and is especially popular in the spring, summer, and fall; the high-desert terrain is rugged and challenging, but mountain bikers of all levels can find exhilarating rides. The Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau can supply you with bike maps.

I recommend the following trails: West of Santa Fe, the Caja del Rio area has nice dirt roads and some light-to-moderate technical biking; the railroad tracks south of Santa Fe provide wide-open biking on beginner-to-intermediate technical trails; and the Borrego Trail up toward the Santa Fe Ski Area is a challenging technical ride that links in with the Windsor Trail, a nationally renowned technical romp with plenty of verticality.

In Santa Fe bookstores, or online at sites like Amazon.com, look for Mountain Biking Northern New Mexico: A Guide to Taos, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque Areas’ Greatest Off-Road Bicycle Rides, by Bob D’Antonio (Falcon). The book details 40 rides ranging in difficulty from beginning to advanced. Santa Fe Mountain Sports, 1221 Flagman Way ( 505/988-3337; www.santafemountainsports.com), rents hard-tail mountain bikes for $20 per half-day and $25 per full day, or full-suspension bikes for $35 per full day. Mellow Velo Bikes, 638 Old Santa Fe Trail ( 505/982-8986; www.mellowvelo.com), rents front-suspension mountain bikes for $23 per half-day and $30 per full day. Town cruisers run $23 per half-day and $30 per full day. Full-suspension bikes run $55 per day. Add $7, and Mellow Velo will deliver to and pick up from your hotel (in the Santa Fe area). Price per day decreases with multiday rentals. Both shops supply accessories such as helmets, locks, maps, and trail information, usually at an additional cost.

Bird-Watching

Bird-watchers flock to the Randall Davey Audubon Center ★ (see “Parks & Refuges,” earlier in this chapter), 1800 Upper Canyon Rd. ( 505/983-4609), to see more than 100 species of birds and many other animals. For guided bird-watching tours all over the region, contact Wings West ( 800/583-6928; wingswestnm.com). Bill West guides half-day tours to local spots such as the Santa Fe Mountains and Cochiti Lake ($105 for one to two people) and full-day ones farther afield ($195 for one to two people).

Fishing

In the lakes and waterways around Santa Fe, anglers typically catch trout (there are five varieties in the area). Other local fish include bass, perch, and kokanee salmon. The most popular fishing holes are Cochiti and Abiquiu lakes, as well as the Rio Chama, Pecos River, and the Rio Grande. A world-renowned fly-fishing destination, the San Juan River, near Farmington, is worth a visit and can make for an exciting 2-day trip in combination with a tour around Chaco Culture National Historic Park (see chapter 9). Check with the New Mexico Game and Fish Department ( 505/476-8000; www.wildlife.state.nm.us) for information (including maps of area waters), licenses, and fishing proclamations. High Desert Angler, 460 Cerrillos Rd. ( 505/988-7688; www.highdesertangler.com), specializes in fly-fishing gear and guide services.

Golf

There are three courses in the Santa Fe area: the 18-hole Santa Fe Country Club, on Airport Road ( 505/471-2626; www.santafecountryclub.com); the often-praised 18-hole Cochiti Lake Golf Course, 5200 Cochiti Hwy., Cochiti Lake, about 35 miles southwest of Santa Fe via I-25 and NM 16 and 22 ( 505/465-2239; www.pueblodecochiti.org); and Santa Fe’s newest 18-hole course, Marty Sanchez Links de Santa Fe, 205 Caja del Rio ( 505/955-4400; www.linksdesantafe.com). Both the Santa Fe Country Club and the Marty Sanchez Links offer driving ranges as well. North of Santa Fe on Pojoaque Pueblo land, the Towa Golf Resort, Buffalo Thunder Resort, 12 miles north of Santa Fe on US 285/84 ( 877/465-3489 or 505/455-9000; www.buffalothunderresort.com), offers 36 holes, 27 of them designed by Hale Irwin and William Phillips, set with views of the Jemez and Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

Hiking

It’s hard to decide which of the 1,000 miles of nearby national forest trails to tackle. Four wilderness areas are nearby, most notably Pecos Wilderness, with 223,000 acres east of Santa Fe. Also visit the 58,000-acre Jemez Mountain National Recreation Area. Information on these and other wilderness areas is available from the Santa Fe National Forest, P.O. Box 1689 (1474 Rodeo Rd.), Santa Fe, NM 87504 ( 505/438-7840; www.fs.fed.us). If you’re looking for company on your trek, contact the Santa Fe branch of the Sierra Club, 1807 Second St. ( 505/983-2703; www.riogrande.sierraclub.org). A hiking schedule can be found in the local newsletter; you can pick one up outside the office. Some people enjoy taking a chairlift ride to the summit of the Santa Fe Ski Area ( 505/982-4429; www.skisantafe.com) and hiking around up there during the summer. A popular guide with Santa Feans is Day Hikes in the Santa Fe Area, published by the local branch of the Sierra Club.

The most popular hiking trails are the Borrego Trail, a moderate 4-mile jaunt through aspens and ponderosa pines, ending at a creek, and Aspen Vista, an easy 1- to 5-mile hike through aspen forest with views to the east. Both are easy to find; simply head up Hyde Park Road toward Ski Santa Fe. The Borrego Trail is 8 1/4 miles up, while Aspen Vista is 10 miles. In recent years an energetic crew has cut the Dale Ball Trails ( 505/955-6977; www.santafenm.gov), miles of hiking/biking trails throughout the Santa Fe foothills. The easiest access is off Hyde Park Road toward Ski Santa Fe. Drive 2 miles from Bishop’s Lodge Road and watch for the trail head on the left. If you’re looking for “outspiration” (versus inspiration) on a guided day-hiking experience, call Outspire ( 505/660-0394; www.outspire.com). They’ll set you up with a guide and design just the hike for your ability level and interest. A 3- to 4-hour hike begins at $150. Outspire also guides snowshoeing trips.

Horseback Riding

Trips ranging in length from a few hours to overnight can be arranged by Santa Fe Detours, 54 1/2 E. San Francisco St. (summer tour desk, 107 Washington Ave.; 800/338-6877 or 505/983-6565; www.sfdetours.com). You’ll ride with “experienced wranglers” and they can even arrange a trip that includes a cookout or brunch. Rides are also major activities at the Bishop’s Lodge. The Broken Saddle Riding Company ( 505/424-7774) offers rides through the stunning Galisteo Basin south of Santa Fe.

Hunting

Elk and mule deer are taken by hunters in the Pecos Wilderness and Jemez Mountains, as are occasional black bears and bighorn sheep. Wild turkeys and grouse are frequently bagged in the uplands, geese and ducks at lower elevations. Check with the New Mexico Game and Fish Department ( 505/476-8000; www.wildlife.state.nm.us) for information and licenses.

River Rafting & Kayaking

Although Taos is the real rafting center of New Mexico, several companies serve Santa Fe during the April-to-August white-water season. They include New Wave Rafting, 2110 Hwy. 68, Embudo, NM 87531 ( 800/984-1444 or 505/579-0075; www.newwaverafting.com), and Santa Fe Rafting Co., 1000 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87505 ( 888/988-4914 or 505/988-4914; www.santaferafting.com). You can expect the cost of a full-day trip to range from about $110 to $125 per person before tax and the 3% federal land-use fee. The day of the week (weekdays are less expensive) and group size may also affect the price.

Running

Despite its elevation, Santa Fe is popular with runners and hosts numerous competitions, including the annual Old Santa Fe Trail Run on Labor Day. The Santa Fe Striders website (www.santafestriders.org) lists various runs during the year, as well as weekly runs. This is a great opportunity for travelers to find their way and to meet some locals.

Skiing

There’s something available for every ability level at Ski Santa Fe, about 16 miles northeast of Santa Fe via Hyde Park (Ski Basin) Road. Lots of locals ski here, particularly on weekends; if you can, go on weekdays. It’s a good family area and fairly small, so it’s easy to split off from and later reconnect with your party. Built on the upper reaches of 12,000-foot Tesuque Peak, the area has an average annual snowfall of 225 inches and a vertical drop of 1,725 feet. Seven lifts, including a 5,000-foot triple chair and a quad chair, serve 69 runs and 660 acres of terrain, with a total capacity of 7,800 riders an hour. Base facilities, at 10,350 feet, center around La Casa Mall, with a cafeteria, lounge, ski shop, and boutique. A restaurant, Totemoff’s, has a midmountain patio.

The ski area is open daily from 9am to 4pm; the season often runs from Thanksgiving to early April, depending on snow conditions. Rates for all lifts are $58 for adults, $46 for those ages 13 to 20, $40 for children 12 and under and seniors; half-day (morning or afternoon) tickets run $42. Tickets are free for kids less than 46 inches tall (in their ski boots), and for seniors 72 and older. For more information, contact Ski Santa Fe, 2209 Brothers Rd., Suite 220 ( 505/982-4429; www.skisantafe.com). For 24-hour reports on snow conditions, call 505/983-9155. Ski packages are available through SantaFeHotels.com ( 800/745-9910).

Cross-country skiers find seemingly endless miles of snow to track in the Santa Fe National Forest ( 505/438-5300; www.fs.fed.us). A favorite place to start is at the Black Canyon campground, about 9 miles from downtown en route to Ski Santa Fe. In the same area are the Borrego Trail (high intermediate), Aspen Vista Trail, and the Norski Trail, all en route to Ski Santa Fe as well. Other popular activities at the ski area in winter include snowshoeing, snowboarding, sledding, and inner tubing. Ski, snowboard, and snowshoe rentals are available at a number of downtown shops and the ski area.

Getting Pampered: The spa Scene

If traveling, skiing, or other activities have left you weary, Santa Fe has a number of relaxation options. Absolute Nirvana Spa & Gardens ★★ ( 866/585-7942; www.absolutenirvana.com) offers imaginative Indo-Asian spa “experiences” as well as massages and facials. Their signature treatment, the Javanese Lulur, includes a full-body massage with jasmine oil, a sandalwood/rice powder exfoliation and yogurt/honey wrap, followed by a steam shower and decadent rose petal bath, all accompanied by tea, fruit, and a house-made truffle. The spa is open Sunday to Thursday 10am to 6pm and Friday and Saturday 10am to 8pm. Prices range from $105 to $240. Another option with a more Japanese bent is Ten Thousand Waves ★★, a spa about 3 miles northeast of Santa Fe on Hyde Park Road ( 505/982-9304; www.tenthousandwaves.com). This serene retreat, nestled in a grove of piñons, offers hot tubs, saunas, and cold plunges, plus a variety of massage and other bodywork techniques. Bathing suits are optional in both the communal hot tub (during the day) and the women’s communal tub, where you can stay as long as you want for $19. Nine private hot tubs cost $30 to $40 an hour, with discounts for seniors and children. A premium bath is offered at $49 for 90 minutes. You can also arrange therapeutic massage, hot-oil massage, in-water Watsu massage, herbal wraps, salt glows, facials, dry brush aromatherapy treatments, Ayurvedic treatments, and the much-praised Japanese Hot Stone Massage. If you call far enough in advance, you may be able to find lodging at Ten Thousand Waves as well. The spa is open Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 10:30am to 10:30pm; Tuesday from noon to 10:30pm; and Friday through Sunday from 9am to 10:30pm (winter hours are shorter, so be sure to call). Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.

Swimming

There’s a public pool at the Fort Marcy Complex ( 505/955-2500; www.santafenm.gov) on Camino Santiago, off Bishop’s Lodge Road. In summer, the public Bicentennial Pool, 1121 Alto St. ( 505/955-4778), offers outdoor swimming. Admission to both is less than $2 for all ages.

Tennis

Santa Fe has 44 public tennis courts and four major private facilities. The City Recreation Department ( 505/955-2602; www.santafenm.gov) can help you locate indoor, outdoor, and lighted public courts.

Shopping

Santa Fe offers a broad range of art, from very traditional Native American crafts and Hispanic folk art to extremely innovative contemporary work. Some call Santa Fe one of the top art markets in the world. Galleries speckle the downtown area, and as an artists’ thoroughfare, Canyon Road is preeminent. The greatest concentration of Native American crafts is displayed beneath the portal of the Palace of the Governors.

Any serious arts aficionado should try to attend one or more of the city’s great arts festivals—the Spring Festival of the Arts in May, the Spanish Market in July, the Indian Market in August, and the Fall Festival of the Arts in October.

Few visitors to Santa Fe leave the city without acquiring at least one item from the Native American artisans at the Palace of the Governors. You can also peruse the outstanding gallery catalogs for an introduction to local dealers. They’re available for free in many galleries and hotels. They include The Collector’s Guide to Art in Santa Fe and Taos by Wingspread Incorporated (www.collectorsguide.com), The Essential Guide to Santa Fe & Taos by Essential Guides (www.essentialguide.com), and others. For a current listing of gallery openings, with recommendations on which ones to attend, purchase a copy of the monthly magazine the Santa Fean by Santa Fean, 466 W. San Francisco St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 (www.santafean.com). Also check in the “Pasatiempo” section of the local newspaper, the New Mexican (www.santafenewmexican.com), every Friday.

Business hours vary quite a bit among establishments, but most are open at least Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm, with mall stores open until 8 or 9pm. Most shops are open similar hours on Saturday, and many also open on Sunday afternoon during the summer. Winter hours tend to be more limited.

After the high-rolling 1980s, during which art markets around the country prospered, came the penny-pinching 1990s and the fearful 2000s. Many galleries in Santa Fe have been forced to shut their doors. Those that remain tend to specialize in particular types of art, a refinement process that has improved the gallery scene here. Some locals worry that the lack of serious art buyers in the area leads to fewer good galleries and more T-shirt and trinket stores. The plaza has its share of those, but still has a good number of serious galleries appealing to those buyers whose interests run to accessible art—Southwestern landscapes and the like. On Canyon Road, the art is often more experimental and diverse.

The Top Galleries

Contemporary Art

Canyon Road Contemporary Art This gallery represents some of the finest emerging U.S. contemporary artists, as well as internationally known artists. You’ll find figurative, landscape, and abstract paintings, as well as raku pottery. 403 Canyon Rd. 505/983-0433. www.crcainc.com.

Hahn Ross Gallery Owners Tom Ross and Elizabeth Hahn, a children’s book illustrator and surrealist painter, respectively, specialize in representing artists who create colorful, fantasy-oriented works. Check out the sculpture garden here. 409 Canyon Rd. 505/984-8434. www.hahnross.com.

LewAllen Galleries ★★ This is one of Santa Fe’s most prized galleries. You’ll find bizarre and beautiful contemporary works in a range of media, from granite to clay to twigs. There are always exciting works on canvas. They have a second location at the railyard on 1613 Paseo del Peralta. 129 W. Palace Ave. 505/988-8997. www.lewallencontemporary.com.

Linda Durham Contemporary Art ★ Linda Durham has devoted more than 30 years to representing New Mexico–based artists in a range of mediums including painting, sculpture, photography, and others. These are often daring and always soulful works from a strong roster of talent, including Greg Erf. 1807 2nd St., no. 107. 505/466-6600. www.lindadurham.com.

Manitou Galleries ★ This expansive space just off the plaza presents bold contemporary images of the Southwest and beyond through a variety of mediums, including paintings, prints, sculpture, glass, and jewelry. Look for the work of Miguel Martinez and Roger Hayden Johnson. 123 W. Palace Ave. 800/283-0440 or 505/986-0440. www.manitougalleries.com.

Peyton Wright Gallery ★ Housed within the Historic Spiegelberg House (a refurbished Victorian adobe), this excellent gallery offers contemporary, American Modernism, Spanish Colonial, Russian, and 18th-century New Mexico bultos and santos. In addition to representing such artists as Orlando Leyba, Roni Stretch, and Tim Murphy, the gallery features monthly exhibitions—including contemporary paintings, sculptures, and works on paper. 237 E. Palace Ave. 800/879-8898 or 505/989-9888. www.peytonwright.com.

Shidoni Foundry, Gallery, and Sculpture Gardens ★★ Shidoni Foundry is one of the area’s most exciting spots for sculptors and sculpture enthusiasts. At the foundry, visitors may take a tour through the facilities to view casting processes. In addition, Shidoni Foundry includes a 5,000-square-foot contemporary gallery, a bronze gallery, and a wonderful sculpture garden—a great place for a picnic. Bishop’s Lodge Rd., Tesuque. 505/988-8001. www.shidoni.com.

Native American & Other Indigenous Art

Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery ★ This expansive gallery is a wonderland of authentic Southwestern Indian pottery. You’ll find real showpieces here, including the work of renowned San Ildefonso Pueblo potter Maria Martinez. 100 W. San Francisco St. 505/986-1234. www.andreafisherpottery.com.

Frank Howell Gallery If you’ve never seen the wonderful illustrative hand of the late Frank Howell, you’ll want to visit this gallery. You’ll find a variety of works by contemporary American Indian artists. The gallery also features sculpture, jewelry, and graphics. 103 Washington Ave. 505/984-1074. www.frankhowellgallery.com.

Morning Star Gallery ★★ This is one of my favorite places to browse. Throughout the rambling gallery are American Indian art masterpieces, all elegantly displayed. You’ll see a broad range of works, from late-19th-century Navajo blankets to 1920s Zuni needlepoint jewelry. 513 Canyon Rd. 505/982-8187. www.morningstargallery.com.

Ortega’s on the Plaza A hearty shopper could spend hours here, perusing inventive turquoise and silver jewelry and especially fine-strung beadwork, as well as rugs and pottery. An adjacent room showcases a wide array of clothing, all with a hip Southwestern flair. 101 W. San Francisco St. 505/988-1866. www.ortegasontheplaza.net.

Sherwoods ★ Set in the historic Bandelier House, this gallery features museum-quality Plains Indians antiquities such as an 1870 Nez Perce beaded dress and a Crow war shirt. Some paintings hang here as well, including works by Santa Fe masters such as J. H. Sharp and Gene Kloss. Firearm buffs will go ballistic over the gun room here. 1005 Paseo de Peralta. 505/988-1776. www.sherwoodsspirit.com.

Photography

Andrew Smith Gallery ★ I’m always amazed when I enter this gallery and notice works I’ve seen reprinted in major magazines for years. There they are, photographic prints, large and beautiful, hanging on the wall. Here, you’ll see famous works by Edward Curtis, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Ansel Adams, Annie Leibovitz, and others. A new gallery at the corner of Grant and Johnson streets extends this collection. 122 Grant Ave. 505/984-1234. www.andrewsmithgallery.com.

Photo-Eye Gallery You’re bound to be surprised each time you step into this gallery a few blocks off Canyon Road. Dealing in contemporary photography, the gallery represents both internationally renowned and emerging artists. 370 Garcia St. 505/988-5152. www.photoeye.com.

Traditional Art

Altermann Galleries This is a well of interesting traditional art, mostly 19th-, 20th-, and 21st-century American paintings and sculpture. The gallery represents Remington and Russell, in addition to Taos founders, Santa Fe artists, and members of the Cowboy Artists of America and the National Academy of Western Art. Stroll through the sculpture garden among whimsical bronzes of children and dogs. 225 Canyon Rd. 505/983-1590. www.altermann.com.

Gerald Peters Gallery ★★ Displayed throughout a graceful Pueblo-style building, the works here are so fine you’ll feel as though you’re in a museum. You’ll find 19th-, 20th-, and 21st-century American painting and sculpture, featuring the art of Georgia O’Keeffe, William Wegman, and the founders of the Santa Fe and Taos artist colonies, as well as more contemporary works. 1011 Paseo de Peralta. 505/954-5700. www.gpgallery.com.

The Mayans Gallery Ltd. Established in 1977, this is one of the oldest galleries in Santa Fe. You’ll find 20th-century American and Latin American paintings, photography, prints, and sculpture. 601 Canyon Rd. 505/983-8068.

Nedra Matteucci Galleries ★★ As you approach this gallery, note the elaborately crafted stone and adobe wall that surrounds it, merely a taste of what’s to come. The gallery specializes in 19th-, 20th-, and 21st-century American art. Inside, you’ll find a lot of high-ticket works such as those of early Taos and Santa Fe painters, as well as classic American Impressionism, historical Western modernism, and contemporary Southwestern landscapes and sculpture. Another excellent gallery, Nedra Matteucci Fine Art, is located at 555 Canyon Rd. There look for the fabulous impressionist works by Evelyne Boren. 1075 Paseo de Peralta. 505/982-4631. www.matteucci.com.

Owings-Dewey Fine Art ★ These are treasure-filled rooms. You’ll find 19th-, 20th-, and 21st-century American painting and sculpture, including works by Georgia O’Keeffe, Robert Henri, Maynard Dixon, Fremont Ellis, and Andrew Dasburg, as well as antique works such as Spanish colonial retablos, bultos, and tin works. Look for the exciting bird sculptures by Peter Woytuk. There’s a second shop at 120 E. Marcy St. 76 E. San Francisco St., upstairs. 505/982-6244. www.owingsgallery.com.

Zaplin Lampert Gallery ★★ Art aficionados as well as those who just like a nice landscape will enjoy this gallery, one of Santa Fe’s classics. Hanging on old adobe walls are works by some of the region’s early masters, including Bert Phillips, Gene Kloss, and Gustauve Baumann. 651 Canyon Rd. 505/982-6100. www.zaplinlampert.com.

More Shopping A to Z

Antiques

El Paso Import Company ★ Whenever I’m in the vicinity of this shop, I always stop in. It’s packed—and I mean packed—with colorful, weathered colonial and ranchero furniture. The affordable home furnishings and folk art here are imported from Mexico, India, and Romania. 418 Sandoval St. 505/982-5698. www.elpasoimportco.com.

Jackalope ★ Spread over 7 acres of land, this is a wild place to spend a morning or an afternoon browsing through exotic furnishings from India and Mexico, as well as imported textiles, pottery, jewelry, and clothing. It’s a great place to find gifts. Kids will love the prairie-dog village. 2820 Cerrillos Rd. 505/471-8539. www.jackalope.com.

Arcade Shopping on the plaza

Opened in 2004, the Santa Fe Arcade, 60 E. San Francisco St. ( 505/988-5792), on the south side of the plaza, offers three stories of shops in a sleek, glassy European-style space. It’s a far cry from the Woolworth’s that once lived there. Showy Western wear, fine Indian jewelry, and hip clothing fill the display windows of some 60 spaces in the mall. To pamper yourself with natural products, many made in northern New Mexico, step into Sombria, Ste. 222 ( 888/480-5554 or 505/982-7383). Look for their margarita salt glow, made with salt from Utah’s Great Salt Lake. Prima Fine Jewelry’s Oro Fino, Ste. 218 ( 505/983-9699), sells contemporary and Southwestern inlaid jewelry in silver, gold, and platinum. After all the shopping, if you find yourself hungry, head to the Rooftop Pizzeria ★, top floor ( 505/984-0008; www.rooftoppizzeria.com), for some of the city’s best pizza. Two types of crust, an “artisan” or a blue corn, are topped with imaginative concoctions such as smoked duck and roasted garlic or wild mushroom and Alfredo sauce. Salads, pasta dishes, and beer and wine are also available. It’s open Sunday through Thursday 11am to 10pm and Friday and Saturday 11am to 11pm.

Books

Borders With close to 200 stores nationwide, this chain provides a broad range of books, music, and videos, and it hosts in-store appearances by authors, musicians, and artists. 500 Montezuma Ave. 505/954-4707. www.borders.com.

Collected Works Bookstore ★★ This is an excellent downtown book source, with carefully recommended books up front, in case you’re not sure what you want, and shelves of Southwest, travel, nature, and other books. The shop includes a coffeehouse and hosts weekly readings and talks by notable authors. 202 Galisteo St. 505/988-4226. www.cwbookstore.com.

Garcia Street Books ★ One of Santa Fe’s best shops for perusing, this gem stocks a broad range of titles on the Southwest and collectibles. Not sure what to read? The knowledgeable staff here will help you decide. 376 Garcia St. 866/986-0151 or 505/986-0151. www.garciastreetbooks.com.

Children

Gypsy Baby This shop sells bright clothes, beaded slippers, and mustang rocking horses, all mindful of the slogan “Born to be spoiled.” 318 S. Guadalupe St. 505/820-1898. www.gypsybabies.com.

Crafts

Davis Mather Folk Art Gallery This small shop is a wild-animal adventure. You’ll find New Mexican animal woodcarvings in shapes of lions, tigers, and bears—even chickens—as well as other folk and Hispanic arts. 141 Lincoln Ave. 505/983-1660. www.santafefolkartgallery.com.

Nambe ★ The cooking, serving, and decorating pieces here are fashioned from an exquisite sand-cast and handcrafted alloy. These items are also available at the Nambe stores at 104 W. San Francisco St. ( 505/988-3574) and in Taos at 109 North Plaza ( 575/758-8221). 924 Paseo de Peralta. 505/988-5528. www.nambe.com.

Fashions

Back at the Ranch ★ This shop has chic Western wear and what it calls the “largest selection of handmade cowboy boots in the country.” 209 E. Marcy St. 888/962-6687 or 505/989-8110. www.backattheranch.com.

Origins ★ A little like a Guatemalan or Turkish marketplace, this store is packed with wearable art, folk art, and the work of local designers. Look for good buys on ethnic jewelry. Throughout the summer there are trunk shows, which offer opportunities to meet the artists. 135 W. San Francisco St. 505/988-2323. www.originssantafe.com.

Overland Sheepskin Company The rich smell of leather will draw you in the door, and possibly hold onto you until you purchase a coat, blazer, hat, or other finely made leather item. 74 E. San Francisco St. 505/983-4727. www.overland.com.

Food

The Chile Shop This store has too many cheap trinketlike items for me, but many people find some novelty items to take back home. You’ll find everything from salsas to cornmeal and tortilla chips. The shop also stocks cookbooks and pottery items. 109 E. Water St. 505/983-6080. www.thechileshop.com.

Señor Murphy Candy Maker Unlike any candy store you’ll find in other parts of the country—everything here is made with local ingredients. The chile–piñon nut brittle is a taste sensation! Señor Murphy has another shop in the Santa Fe Place mall ( 505/471-8899). 100 E. San Francisco St. (La Fonda hotel). 505/982-0461. www.senormurphy.com.

Furniture

Southwest Spanish Craftsmen The Spanish colonial and Spanish provincial furniture, doors, and home accessories in this store are a bit too elaborate for my tastes, but if you find yourself dreaming of carved wood, this is your place. 314 S. Guadalupe St. 505/982-1767. www.nussbaumerfineart.com.

Gifts & Souvenirs

El Nicho If you want to take a little piece of Santa Fe home with you, you’ll likely find it at this shop. You’ll find handcrafted Navajo folk art as well as jewelry and other items by local artisans, including woodcarvings (watch for the santos!) by the renowned Ortega family. 227 Don Gaspar Ave. 505/984-2830.

Hats

Montecristi Custom Hat Works ★ This fun shop hand-makes fine Panama and felt hats in a range of styles, from Australian outback to Mexican bolero. 322 McKenzie St. 505/983-9598. www.montecristihats.com.

Jewelry

Packards ★ Opened by a notable trader, Al Packard, and later sold to new owners, this store on the plaza is worth checking out to see some of the best jewelry available. You’ll also find exquisite rugs and pottery. 61 Old Santa Fe Trail. 505/983-9241. www.packards-santafe.com.

Tresa Vorenberg Goldsmiths You’ll find some wildly imaginative designs in this jewelry store, where more than 40 artisans are represented. All items are handcrafted, and custom commissions are welcomed. 656 Canyon Rd. 505/988-7215. www.tvgoldsmiths.com.

Malls & Shopping Centers

De Vargas Center There are approximately 50 merchants and restaurants in this mall just northwest of downtown. This is Santa Fe’s small, more intimate mall, with anchors Ross and Office Depot; it’s open Monday to Friday 10am to 7pm, Saturday 10am to 6pm, and Sunday noon to 5pm. N. Guadalupe St. and Paseo de Peralta. 505/982-2655. www.devargascenter.com.

Fashion Outlets of Santa Fe Outlet shopping fans will enjoy this open-air mall on the south end of town. Anchors include Brooks Brothers, Jones New York, and Coach. 8380 Cerrillos Rd. 505/474-4000. www.fashionoutletssantafe.com.

Sanbusco Market Center ★ Unique shops and restaurants occupy this remodeled warehouse near the old Santa Fe Railyard. Many of the shops are overpriced, but it’s a fun place to window-shop. Borders (see above) is here as well. It’s open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm, Sunday noon to 5pm. 500 Montezuma St. 505/989-9390. www.sanbusco.com.

Santa Fe Place Santa Fe’s largest mall is near the southwestern city limits, not far from the I-25 on-ramp. If you’re from a major city, you’ll probably find shopping here very provincial. Anchors include JCPenney, Sears, Dillard’s, and Mervyn’s. Hours are Monday to Saturday 10am to 9pm, Sunday noon to 6pm. 4250 Cerrillos Rd. (at Rodeo Rd.). 505/473-4253. www.shopsantafeplace.com.

Markets

Santa Fe Farmers’ Market ★★ This farmers’ market has everything from fruits, vegetables, and flowers to cheeses, cider, and salsas. Great local treats! If you’re an early riser, stroll through and enjoy good coffee, excellent breakfast burritos, and music ranging from flute to fiddle. In 2008, the market moved into a beautiful new building in the railyard district. It’s open April to mid-November Tuesday and Saturday 7am to noon. In winter, an abbreviated version takes place indoors. In the Santa Fe Railyard, off Paseo de Peralta. 505/983-4098. www.santafefarmersmarket.com.

Tesuque Flea Market ★ If you’re a flea-market hound, you’ll be happy to discover this one. More than 500 vendors sell everything from used cowboy boots (you might find some real beauties) to clothing, jewelry, books, and furniture, all against a big northern New Mexico view. The flea market runs March to late November Friday to Sunday. Vendors start selling at about 7:30am and stay open until about 6:30pm, weather permitting. US 84/285 (about 8 miles north of Santa Fe). No phone. www.pueblooftesuquefleamarket.com.

Natural Art

Mineral & Fossil Gallery of Santa Fe ★ You’ll find ancient artwork here, from fossils to geodes in all sizes and shapes. Natural mineral jewelry and decorative items for the home, including lamps, wall clocks, furniture, art glass, and carvings are also on hand. Mineral & Fossil also has galleries in Taos, and in Scottsdale and Sedona, Arizona. 127 W. San Francisco St. 800/762-9777 or 505/984-1682. www.mineralgallery.net.

Stone Forest ★★ Proprietor Michael Zimber travels to China and other Asian countries every year to collaborate with the stone carvers who create the fountains, sculptures, and bath fixtures that fill this inventive shop and garden not far from the plaza. 213 St. Francis Dr. 505/986-8883. www.stoneforest.com.

Pottery & Tiles

Artesanos Imports Company ★ Coming here is like taking a trip south of the border, with all the scents and colors you’d expect on such a journey. You’ll find a wide selection of Talavera tile and pottery, as well as light fixtures and many other accessories for the home. 1414 Maclovia St. 505/471-8020. www.artesanos.com.

Santa Fe Pottery at Double Take The work of more than 120 master potters from New Mexico and the Southwest is on display here; you’ll find everything from mugs and lamps to home furnishings. 323 S. Guadalupe St. 505/989-3363.

Rugs

Seret & Sons Rugs, Furnishings, and Architectural Pieces ★ If you’re like me and find Middle Eastern decor irresistible, you’ll want to wander through this shop. You’ll find kilims and Persian and Turkish rugs, as well as some of the Moorish-style ancient doors and furnishings that you see around Santa Fe. 224 Galisteo St. 505/988-9151 or 505/983-5008. www.seretandsons.com.

Santa Fe After Dark

Santa Fe is a city committed to the arts, so it’s no surprise that the Santa Fe night scene is dominated by highbrow cultural events, beginning with the world-famous Santa Fe Opera. The club and popular music scene runs a distant second.

Information on all major cultural events can be obtained from the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau ( 800/777-2489 or 505/955-6200) or from the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission ( 505/955-6707). Current listings are published each Friday in the “Pasatiempo” section of The New Mexican (www.santafenewmexican.com), the city’s daily newspaper, and in the Santa Fe Reporter (www.sfreporter.com), published every Wednesday.

You can also order tickets to events by phone from Ticketmaster ( 800/745-3000). Discount tickets may be available on the night of a performance; for example, the opera offers standing-room tickets on the day of the performance. Sales start at 10am.

A variety of free concerts, lectures, and other events are presented in the summer, cosponsored by the City of Santa Fe and the Chamber of Commerce. Many of these musical and cultural events take place on the plaza; check in the “Pasatiempo” section for current listings and information.

Many performing-arts groups flourish in this city of 72,000. Some of them perform year-round, while others are seasonal. The acclaimed Santa Fe Opera, for instance, has a 2-month summer season: late June to August.

Note: Many companies noted here perform at locations other than their listed addresses, so check the site of the performance you plan to attend.

Major Performing Arts Companies

Opera & Classical Music

Santa Fe Opera ★★★ Many rank the Santa Fe Opera second only to the Metropolitan Opera of New York in the United States. Established in 1957, it consistently attracts famed conductors, directors, and singers. At the height of the season, the company is 500 strong. It’s noted for its performances of the classics, little-known works by classical European composers, and American premieres of 21st-century works. The theater, completed for the 1998 season, sits on a wooded hilltop 7 miles north of the city, off US 84/285. It’s partially open air, with open sides. A controversial structure, this new theater replaced the original, built in 1968, but preserved the sweeping curves attuned to the contour of the surrounding terrain. At night, the lights of Los Alamos can still be seen in the distance under clear skies.

The 8-week, 40-performance opera season runs from late June through late August. Highlights for 2011 include the first major U.S. production of Vivaldi’s Griselda, Gian Carlo Menotti’s The Last Savage, Gounod’s Faust, and Puccini’s La Bohême. All performances begin at 9pm, until the end of July when performances start at 8:30pm, and the last week of the season when performances begin at 8pm. A small screen in front of each seat shows the libretto during the performance. A gift shop has been added, as has additional parking. The entire theater is wheelchair accessible. P.O. Box 2408. 800/280-4654 or 505/986-5900. www.santafeopera.org. Tickets $28–$180; standing room $10; Opening Night Gala $1,750–$3,000. Backstage tours June–Aug Mon–Sat at 9am; $5 adults, free for children 5–17.

Orchestral & Chamber Music

Santa Fe Pro Musica Chamber Orchestra & Ensemble ★ Nominated in 2008 for a Grammy Award, this chamber ensemble performs everything from Bach to Vivaldi to contemporary masters. During Holy Week, the Santa Fe Pro Musica presents its annual Mozart and Hayden Concert at the St. Francis Cathedral. Christmas brings candlelight chamber ensemble concerts. Pro Musica’s season runs September to May. Students and teachers get half off ticket prices. 1405 Luisa St., Ste. 10. 505/988-4640. www.santafepromusica.com. Tickets $15–$70.

Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra and Chorus ★ This 60-piece professional symphony orchestra has grown rapidly in stature since its founding in 1984. Matinee and evening performances of classical and popular works are presented in a subscription series at the Lensic Performing Arts Center from August to May. There’s a preconcert lecture before each performance. During the spring, the orchestra presents music festivals (call for details). P.O. Box 9692. 800/480-1319 or 505/983-1414. www.santafesymphony.org. Tickets $20–$75.

Music Festivals & Concert Series

Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival ★★ An extraordinary group of international artists comes to Santa Fe every summer for this festival. Its 6-week season runs mid-July to mid-August and is held in the St. Francis Auditorium and the Lensic Performing Arts Center. Each festival features chamber-music masterpieces, new music by a composer in residence, jazz, free youth concerts, preconcert lectures, and open rehearsals. Performances are Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday at 8pm; Saturday at various evening times; and Sunday at 6pm. Open rehearsals, youth concerts, and preconcert lectures are free to the public. 239 Johnson St., Ste. B (P.O. Box 2227). 505/983-2075 or 505/982-1890 for box office (after the third week of June). www.sfcmf.org. Tickets $10–$62.

Santa Fe Concert Association ★ Founded in 1937, this oldest musical organization in northern New Mexico has a September-to-May season that includes a six-performance series. Among them are a “Great Performances” series and an “Adventures” series, which feature renowned instrumental and vocal soloists and chamber ensembles. The association also hosts special holiday concerts around Christmas and New Year’s. Performances are held at the Lensic Performing Arts Center; tickets are available at the Lensic box office. 210 E. Marcy St., Ste. 15. 505/988-1234, 800/905-3315 (www.tickets.com), or 505/984-8759. www.santafeconcerts.org. Tickets $20–$175.

Theater Companies

Santa Fe Playhouse ★ Founded in the 1920s, this is the oldest extant theater group in New Mexico. Still performing in a historic adobe theater in the Barrio de Analco, it attracts thousands for its dramas, avant-garde theater, and musical comedy. Its popular one-act melodramas call on the public to boo the sneering villain and swoon for the damsel in distress. 142 E. de Vargas St. 505/988-4262. www.santafeplayhouse.org. Tickets “pay what you wish” to $20, depending on the show.

Theater Grottesco ★★ This troupe combines the best of comedy, drama, and dance in its original productions performed each spring, summer, or fall, at whatever venue suits the performance. Expect to be romanced, shocked, intellectually stimulated, and, above all, struck silly with laughter. Look for upcoming winter shows as well. 551 W. Cordova Rd., no. 8400. 505/474-8400. www.theatergrottesco.org. Tickets $10–$25.

Theaterwork Studio ★ This community theater goes out of its way to present refreshing, at times risky, plays. In an intimate space on the south end of town, Theaterwork offers seven main-stage productions a year, a broad variety including new plays and classics by regional and national playwrights. Expect to see works by such names as Brecht, Shakespeare, and Victor Hugo. 1336 Rufina Circle. 505/471-1799. www.theaterwork.org. Tickets $10–$18.

Dance Companies

Aspen Santa Fe Ballet ★ In its second decade, the Aspen Santa Fe Ballet brings classically trained dancers to Santa Fe and Aspen. Performances are an eclectic repertoire by some of the world’s foremost choreographers. The season is year-round, with performances at the Lensic Performing Arts Center. 550-B St. Michael’s Dr. 505/983-5591. www.aspensantafeballet.com. Purchase tickets at the Lensic ( 505/988-1234). Tickets $20–$72.

María Benitez Teatro Flamenco ★ True flamenco is one of the most thrilling of dance forms, displaying the inner spirit and verve of the gypsies of Spanish Andalusia. María Benitez, trained in Spain, choreographs a troupe of vibrant young dancers called Flamenco’s Next Generation. Their summer series holds matinee performances from mid-July to mid-August on Sundays at 2pm. The María Benitez Theater at the Lodge at Santa Fe is modern and showy, and yet it’s intimate enough so you’re immersed in the art. Institute for Spanish Arts, P.O. Box 8418. 505/470-7828. www.mariabenitez.com. Tickets $5–$15.

Major Concert Halls & All-Purpose Auditoriums

Center for Contemporary Arts and Cinematheque ★ CCA presents the work of internationally, nationally, and regionally known contemporary artists in art exhibitions, dance, music concerts, poetry readings, performance-art events, theater, and video screenings. The Cinematheque screens films from around the world nightly, with special series presented regularly. CCA’s galleries are open daily noon to 7:30pm. 1050 Old Pecos Trail. 505/982-1338. www.ccasantafe.org. Film tickets $8. Art exhibitions are free; performances range broadly in price.

Lensic Performing Arts Center ★★ The Santa Fe arts scene’s best venue, the Lensic hosts many of the city’s major performances, including the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival and the Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra and Chorus, among others. The setting is wonderfully atmospheric; a multimillion-dollar face-lift brought out the 1931 movie palace’s Arabian Nights charm. 211 W. San Francisco St. 505/988-7050. www.lensic.com.

St. Francis Auditorium This atmospheric music hall, patterned after the interiors of traditional Hispanic mission churches, is noted for its excellent acoustics. The hall hosts a wide variety of musical events, including the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival in July and August. Museum of Fine Arts, Lincoln and Palace aves. 505/476-5072. Ticket prices vary; see above for specific performing-arts companies.

The Club & Music Scene

In addition to the clubs and bars listed below, there are a number of hotels whose bars and lounges feature some type of entertainment (see “Where to Stay,” earlier in this chapter).

Country, Jazz & Latin

Chispa! ★ A tapas bar with the chispa or “spark” of fun entertainment and dancing, this hot spot next to the dining room at El Meson draws locals of all types. Music ranges from guitar duos to jazz combos and Brazilian music, with flamenco dancers performing on some Saturday nights. On Tango Tuesdays, locals turn out in their tightest dance clothes to party. The tapas are excellent. It’s open Tuesday to Saturday. 213 Washington Ave. 505/983-6756. www.elmeson-santafe.com. Cover charge for select performances.

Cowgirl Hall of Fame ★ It’s difficult to categorize what goes on in this bar and restaurant, but there’s live entertainment nightly. Some nights there’s blues guitar, others folk music; you might also find progressive rock, comedy, reggae, karaoke, or cowboy poetry. In the summer, this is a great place to sit under the stars and listen to music. 319 S. Guadalupe St. 505/982-2565. No cover for music Sun–Mon and Wed; Tues and Thurs–Sat $3–$5 cover. Special performances $10.

Eldorado Hotel ★ In a grand lobby-lounge full of fine art, classical guitarists and pianists perform nightly. 309 W. San Francisco St. 505/988-4455. www.eldoradohotel.com.

El Farol ★ This original neighborhood bar of the Canyon Road artists’ quarter (its name means “the lantern”) is the place to head for local ambience. Its cozy interior is home to Santa Fe’s largest and most unusual selection of tapas. Jazz, swing, folk, and most notably, salsa and flamenco musicians (and dancers)—some of national note—perform most nights. On Friday nights the Flamenco Dinner Show starts at 7pm for $25. 808 Canyon Rd. 505/983-9912. www.elfarolsf.com. Cover $5.

Snub Out the Smokes

In 2006, smoking in Santa Fe bars and restaurants, including outdoor-dining areas, became illegal. The law was instituted mainly to protect entertainment and hospitality workers from secondhand smoke, but it will likely protect many others as well.

La Fiesta Lounge ★ Set in the notable La Fonda hotel on the plaza, this nightclub offers excellent country bands on weekends, with old- and new-timers two-stepping across the floor. This lively lobby bar offers cocktails, an appetizer menu, and live entertainment nightly. It’s a great authentic Santa Fe spot. La Fonda hotel, 110 E. San Francisco St. 505/982-5511. www.lafondasantafe.com.

Rock & Disco

Catamount Bar and Grille The postcollege crowd hangs out at this bar, where live rock and blues music play on weekends. Food is served until 11pm, and there is also a billiards room. 125 E. Water St. 505/988-7222.

The Bar Scene

The Dragon Room ★ A number of years ago, International Newsweek named the Dragon Room at the Pink Adobe one of the top 20 bars in the world. The reason is its spirited but comfortable ambience, which draws students, artists, politicians, and even an occasional celebrity. The decor theme is dragons, which you’ll find carved on the front doors as well as depicted on the walls, all within low-lit, aged elegance akin to the Pink Adobe’s interior. Live trees also grow through the roof. In addition to the tempting lunch and bar menu, there’s always a complimentary bowl of popcorn close at hand. 406 Old Santa Fe Trail. 505/983-7712.

El Paseo Bar and Grill You can almost always catch live music at this casual, unpretentious place. The crowd here is somewhat younger than at most other downtown establishments, and on certain nights, the bar is completely packed. In addition to the open mic night on Tuesdays, a variety of local bands play here regularly—cranking out many types of music, from blues to rock to jazz to bluegrass. Friday happy hour is from 4 to 6pm. 208 Galisteo St. 505/992-2848. www.elpaseobar.com. Cover $3–$5 weekends.

Evangelo’s A popular downtown hangout, with tropical decor and a mahogany bar, this place can get raucous at times. It’s a bit seedy, but more than 200 varieties of imported beer are available, and pool tables are an added attraction. On Friday and Saturday nights starting at 9pm and Wednesdays at 7:30pm, live bands play (jazz, rock, or reggae). Evangelo’s has reached new fame as one of the bars where Jeff Bridges sang in the 2009 movie Crazy Heart. You’ll find your share of businesspeople, artists, and even bikers here. The bar downstairs attracts a younger crowd and music. It’s open Monday to Saturday noon to 1:30am and Sunday until midnight. 200 W. San Francisco St. 505/982-9014. Cover for special performances only.

Milagro 139 This restaurant and lounge that opened in 2010 transports the flavor and feel of New Orleans to the desert. After dinner hours the lounge becomes a dance spot in a courtyard with climbing bougainvilleas and a live tree growing in the middle. A broad range of ages shows up to sip martinis and margaritas and to enjoy live music on Thursday through Saturday nights. Hours are daily 4pm to midnight, later on weekends. 139 W. San Francisco St. 505/995-0139. www.milagro139.com.

Vanessie of Santa Fe ★ This is unquestionably Santa Fe’s most popular piano bar. The talented Doug Montgomery and Charles Tichenor have a loyal local following. Their repertoire ranges from Bach to Billy Joel, Gershwin to Barry Manilow. They play nightly from 8pm until closing, which could be anywhere from midnight to 2am. There’s an extra microphone, so if you’re daring (or drunk), you can stand up and accompany the piano and vocals (though this is not a karaoke scene). National celebrities have even joined in—including Harry Connick, Jr. Vanessie’s offers a great bar menu. 434 W. San Francisco St. 505/982-9966. www.vanessiesantafe.com.

Touring the Pueblos Around Santa Fe

Excursions from Santa Fe

Of the eight northern pueblos, Tesuque, Pojoaque, Nambe, San Ildefonso, San Juan, and Santa Clara are within about 30 miles of Santa Fe. Picuris (San Lorenzo) is on the High Road to Taos (see “Taking the High Road to Taos,” later in this chapter), and Taos Pueblo is just outside the town of Taos.

The six pueblos described in this section can easily be visited in a single day’s round-trip from Santa Fe, though I suggest visiting just the two that really give a feel of the ancient lifestyle: San Ildefonso, with its broad plaza, and Ohkay Owinge, with its pastoral setting along the Rio Grande. In an easy day trip from Santa Fe you can take in both, with some delicious New Mexican food in Española en route. If you’re in the area at a time when you can catch certain rituals, that’s when you should see some of the other pueblos.

Pueblo Etiquette

When you visit pueblos, it is important to observe certain rules of etiquette. These are personal dwellings and/or important historic sites and must be respected as such. Don’t climb on the buildings or peek into doors or windows. Don’t enter sacred grounds, such as cemeteries and kivas. If you attend a dance or ceremony, remain silent while it is taking place and refrain from applause when it’s over. Many pueblos prohibit photography or sketches; others require you to pay a fee for a permit. If you don’t respect the privacy of the Native Americans who live at the pueblo, you’ll be asked to leave.

Tesuque Pueblo

Tesuque (Te-soo-keh) Pueblo is about 9 miles north of Santa Fe on US 84/285. You’ll know that you’re approaching the pueblo when you see a large store near the highway. If you’re driving north and you get to the unusual Camel Rock and a large roadside casino, you’ve missed the pueblo entrance.

The 800 pueblo dwellers at Tesuque are faithful to their traditional religion, rituals, and ceremonies. Excavations confirm that a pueblo has existed here at least since a.d. 1200; accordingly, this pueblo is now on the National Register of Historic Places. When you come to the welcome sign at the pueblo, turn right, go a block, and park on the right. You’ll see the plaza off to the left. There’s not a lot to see; in recent years renovation has brought a new look to some of the homes around it. There’s a big open area where dances are held and the San Diego Church, completed in 2004 on the site of an 1888 structure that burned down. It’s the fifth church on the pueblo’s plaza since 1641. Visitors are asked to remain in this area.

Some Tesuque women are skilled potters; Ignacia Duran’s black-and-white and red micaceous pottery and Teresa Tapia’s miniatures and pots with animal figures are especially noteworthy. You’ll find many crafts at a gallery on the plaza’s southeast corner. The San Diego Feast Day, which may feature harvest, buffalo, deer, flag, or Comanche dances, is November 12.

The Tesuque Pueblo’s address is Route 42, Box 360-T, Santa Fe, NM 87501 ( 505/983-2667). Admission to the pueblo is free; however, there is a $20 charge for use of still cameras; special permission is required for filming, sketching, and painting. The pueblo is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Camel Rock Casino ( 505/984-8414; www.camelrockcasino.com) is open Sunday to Wednesday from 8am to 4am, and Thursday to Saturday for 24 hours; it has a snack bar on the premises.

Pojoaque Pueblo

About 6 miles farther north of Tesuque Pueblo on US 84/285, at the junction of NM 502, Pojoaque (Po-hwa-keh) Pueblo provides a roadside peek into Pueblo arts. Though small (pop. 2,712) and without a definable village (more modern dwellings exist now), Pojoaque is important as a center for traveler services; in fact, Pojoaque, in its Tewa form, means “water-drinking place.” The historical accounts of the Pojoaque people are sketchy, but we do know that in 1890 smallpox took its toll on the Pojoaque population, forcing most of the pueblo residents to abandon their village. Since the 1930s, the population has gradually increased, and in 1990, a war chief and two war captains were appointed. Today, visitors won’t find a historic village, but the Poeh Cultural Center and Museum, on US 84/285, operated by the pueblo, features a museum, a cultural center, and artists’ studios. It’s situated within a complex of adobe buildings, including the three-story Sun Tower. There are frequent artist demonstrations, exhibitions, and, in the warmer months, traditional ceremonial dances. Indigenous pottery, embroidery, silverwork, and beadwork are available for sale at the Pojoaque Pueblo Visitor Center nearby.

If you leave US 84/285 and travel on the frontage road back to where the pueblo actually was, you’ll encounter lovely orchards and alfalfa fields backed by desert and mountains. There’s a modern community center near the site of the old pueblo and church. On December 12, the annual feast day of Our Lady of Guadalupe features a buffalo dance.

The pueblo’s address is Rte. 11, Box 71, Santa Fe, NM 87506 ( 505/455-2278). The pueblo is open every day during daylight hours. The Poeh Center is at 78 Cities of Gold Rd. ( 505/455-3334; www.poehcenter.com). Admission is free, and it’s open daily 8am to 5pm. Sketching, photography, and filming are prohibited.

Where to Stay & Dine

Hilton Santa Fe Golf Resort & Spa at Buffalo Thunder ★★★ Twenty minutes north of Santa Fe, this lively resort offers luxury accommodations and plenty to do for those seeking fun. The structure itself is gigantic, though designers have managed to impart an intimate feel. The rooms pay special attention to details and texture, with carved headboards, Native American art, and granite counter tops. The suites are spacious and have sleeper sofas—a good option for small families. Most rooms have balconies.

Owned by the Pueblo of Pojoaque, the resort features a number of restaurants and lounges, and a contemporary nightclub. The resort offers duffers 36 holes at the Towa Golf Course, Gamblers test their luck with 1,200 slots, a variety of table games, poker and simulcast horse and dog racing. Spa fans enjoy 16,000 square feet of relaxation. In artful treatment rooms, staff members provide a full range of massages and salt glows.

20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Pojoaque, NM, 87506 505/455-5555. Fax 505/455-0200. www.buffalothunderresort.com. 395 units. $149–$189 double; $209–$389 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 6 restaurants; lounge; casino; children’s center; concierge; executive-level rooms; exercise room; golf course; Jacuzzi; 2 pools; room service; sauna; spa; tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Nambe Pueblo

If you’re still on US 84/285, continue north from Pojoaque about 3 miles until you come to NM 503; turn right, and travel until you see the Bureau of Reclamation sign for Nambe Falls; turn right on NP 101. Approximately 2 miles farther is Nambe (“mound of earth in the corner”), a 700-year-old Tewa-speaking pueblo (pop. 500), with a solar-powered tribal headquarters, at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo range. Only a few original pueblo buildings remain, including a large round kiva, used today in ceremonies. Pueblo artisans make woven belts, beadwork, and brown micaceous pottery. One of my favorite reasons for visiting this pueblo is to see the small herd of bison that roams on 179 acres set aside for them.

Nambe Falls make a stunning three-tier drop through a cleft in a rock face about 4 miles beyond the pueblo. You can reach the falls via a 15-minute hike on a rocky, clearly marked path that leaves from the picnic area. A recreational site at the reservoir offers fishing, boating (nonmotor boats only), hiking, camping, and picnicking. The Waterfall Dances on July 4 and the Saint Francis of Assisi Feast Day on October 4, which has buffalo and deer dances, are observed at the pueblo. Recent dry weather has caused cancellations; before setting out, call the pueblo.

The address is Rte. 1, Box 117-BB, Santa Fe, NM 87506 ( 505/455-2036, or 505/455-2304 for the Ranger Station). Admission to the pueblo is free, and no photography is allowed. Filming and sketching are prohibited. The pueblo is open daily 8am to 5pm. The recreational site is open 8am to noon and 1 to 5pm April to October.

San Ildefonso Pueblo ★★

Pox Oge, as San Ildefonso Pueblo is called in its own Tewa language, means “place where the water cuts down through,” possibly named such because of the way the Rio Grande cuts through the mountains nearby. At Pojoaque, head west on NM 502 and drive about 6 miles to the turnoff. This pueblo has a broad, dusty plaza, with a kiva on one side, ancient dwellings on the other, and a church at the far end. It’s nationally famous for its matte-finish, black-on-black pottery, developed by tribeswoman María Martinez in the 1920s. One of the most visited pueblos in northern New Mexico (pop. 1,524), San Ildefonso attracts more than 20,000 visitors a year.

The San Ildefonsos could best be described as rebellious because this was one of the last pueblos to succumb to the reconquest spearheaded by Don Diego de Vargas in 1692. Within view of the pueblo is the volcanic Black Mesa, a symbol of the San Ildefonso people’s strength. Through the years, each time San Ildefonso felt itself threatened by enemy forces, the residents, along with members of other pueblos, would hide out up on the butte, returning to the valley only when starvation set in. Today, a visit to the pueblo is valuable mainly in order to see or buy rich black pottery. A few shops surround the plaza, and there’s the San Ildefonso Pueblo Museum tucked away in the governor’s office beyond the plaza. I especially recommend visiting during ceremonial days. San Ildefonso Feast Day, on January 23, features the buffalo and Comanche dances in alternate years. Corn dances, held in late August or early September, commemorate a basic element in pueblo life, the importance of fertility in all creatures—humans as well as animals—and plants.

The pueblo has a 4 1/2-acre fishing lake that is surrounded by bosque (Spanish for “forest”), open April to October. Picnicking is encouraged, though you may want to look at the sites before you decide to stay; some are nicer than others. Camping is not allowed.

The pueblo’s address is Rte. 5, Box 315A, Santa Fe, NM 87506 ( 505/455-3549). The admission charge is $7 per car. The charge for taking photographs is $10; you’ll pay $20 to film and $25 to sketch. If you plan to fish, the charge is $10 for adults and $5 for seniors and children 11 and under, but you’ll want to call to be sure the lake is open. The pueblo is open in the summer daily 8am to 5pm; call for weekend hours. In the winter, it’s open Monday to Friday 8am to 4:30pm. It’s closed for major holidays and tribal events.

Ohkay Owinge (San Juan Pueblo) ★

If you continue north on US 84/285, you will reach Ohkay Owinge, via NM 74, a mile off NM 68, about 4 miles north of Española.

The largest (pop. 6,748) and northernmost of the Tewa-speaking pueblos and headquarters of the Eight Northern Indian Pueblos Council, San Juan is on the east side of the Rio Grande—opposite the 1598 site of San Gabriel, the first Spanish settlement west of the Mississippi River and the first capital of New Spain. In 1598, the Spanish, impressed with the openness and helpfulness of the people of San Juan, decided to establish a capital there (it was moved to Santa Fe 10 years later), making San Juan Pueblo the first to be subjected to Spanish colonization. The Indians were generous, providing food, clothing, shelter, and fuel—they even helped sustain the settlement when its leader, Conquistador Juan de Oñate, became preoccupied with his search for gold and neglected the needs of his people.

The past and present cohabit here. Though many of the tribe members are Catholics, most of the San Juan tribe still practice traditional religious rituals. Thus, two rectangular kivas flank the church in the main plaza, and caciques (pueblo priests) share power with civil authorities. The annual San Juan Fiesta is held June 23 and 24; it features buffalo and Comanche dances. Another annual ceremony is the turtle dance on December 26. The Matachine dance, performed here Christmas Day, vividly depicts the subjugation of the Native Americans by the Catholic Spaniards.

The address of the pueblo is P.O. Box 1099, San Juan Pueblo, NM 87566 ( 505/852-4400 or 505/852-4210). Admission is free. Photography or sketching may be allowed for a fee with prior permission from the governor’s office. For information, call the number above. The charge for fishing is $8 for adults and $5 for children and seniors. The pueblo is open every day during daylight hours.

The Eight Northern Indian Pueblos Council ( 505/747-1593) is a sort of chamber of commerce and social-service agency.

Fishing and picnicking are encouraged at the San Juan Tribal Lakes, open year-round. Ohkay Casino ( 505/747-1668; www.ohkay.com) offers table games and slot machines, as well as live music nightly Tuesday through Saturday. It’s open 24 hours on weekends.

Santa Clara Pueblo

Close to Española (on NM 5), Santa Clara, with a population of 1,944, is one of the largest pueblos. You’ll see the village sprawling across the river basin near the beautiful Black Mesa, rows of tract homes surrounding an adobe central area. Although it’s in an incredible setting, the pueblo itself is not much to see; however, a trip through it will give a real feel for the contemporary lives of these people. Though stories vary, the Santa Clarans teach their children that their ancestors once lived in cliffside dwellings named Puye and migrated down to the river bottom in the 13th century. This pueblo is noted for its language program. Artisan elders work with children to teach them their native Tewa language, on the brink of extinction because so many now speak English. This pueblo is also the home of noted potter Nancy Youngblood, who comes from a long line of famous potters and now does alluring contemporary work.

Follow the main route to the old village, where you come to the visitor center, also known as the neighborhood center. There you can get directions to small shops that sell distinctive black incised Santa Clara pottery, red burnished pottery, baskets, and other crafts. One stunning sight here is the cemetery. Stop on the west side of the church and look over the 4-foot wall. It’s a primitive site, with plain wooden crosses and some graves adorned with plastic flowers.

There are corn and harvest dances on Santa Clara Feast Day (Aug 12); information on other special days (including the corn or harvest dances, as well as children’s dances) can be obtained from the pueblo office.

The famed Puye Cliff Dwellings (see below) are on the Santa Clara reservation.

The pueblo’s address is P.O. Box 580, Española, NM 87532 ( 505/753-7326). A permit is required from the governor‘s office to enter the pueblo. The fee is $5 and includes permission for photography; filming and sketching are not allowed. The pueblo is open every day from 8am to 4:30pm.

Puye Cliffs ★★

The Puye Cliff Dwellings offer a view of centuries of culture so well preserved you can almost hear ancient life clamoring around you. You’ll first visit the Harvey House and exhibit hall, which tells some of the history of the site. Next, with a guide, you’ll take a fairly steep hike up to a 200-foot cliff face where you’ll see caves that were once part of dwellings believed to have been built around 1450. Next, either by bus or ladder, you will travel to the mesa top to see stone dwellings dating from 1200. By 1540, this community’s population was at its height, and Puye was the center for a number of villages of the Pajarito Plateau. The guides, ancestors of this culture, help interpret the site.

Unfortunately, Santa Clara Pueblo, which owns Puye, is currently charging a steep price for a visit, as you’ll see below. For this reason, I would recommend a visit to Bandelier National Monument (see below) instead. But if you have money and plenty of time (the guided tours—the only way to see the ruins—take upwards of 2 hours), then by all means go. Your best bet is to check the website or call to make sure tours are available.

From the Monday after Easter to Labor Day, the site is open daily 8:30am to 6pm, with tours on the hour from 9am to 5pm. After Labor Day to the week before Easter, daily hours are 9:30am to 3pm, with tours on the hour from 10am to 2pm. The site is closed the week before Easter, June 13, August 12, Christmas Day, and during inclement weather.

Admission is $35 per person for adults, $33 for children ages 5 to 14, free for ages 4 and under. To reach Puye from Santa Fe, on US 285, drive 28 miles to Española. Turn left onto US 84 and travel just under a mile. You will cross the Rio Grande. Turn left onto NM 30 and travel south 2 miles to the Puye Cliffs Welcome Center. From there you will travel on Indian Rte. 601 for 7 miles to Puye. Call 888/320-5008 (www.puyecliffs.com) for information.

Pecos National Historical Park ★★

About 15 miles east of Santa Fe, I-25 meanders through Glorieta Pass, site of an important Civil War skirmish. In March 1862, volunteers from Colorado and New Mexico, along with Fort Union regulars, defeated a Confederate force marching on Santa Fe, thereby turning the tide of Southern encroachment in the West.

Follow NM 50 east to Pecos for about 7 miles. This quaint town, well off the beaten track since the interstate was constructed, is the site of a noted Benedictine monastery. About 26 miles north of here on NM 63 is the village of Cowles, gateway to the natural wonderland of the Pecos Wilderness. There are many camping, picnicking, and fishing locales en route.

Pecos National Historical Park ★★ ( 505/757-7200; www.nps.gov/peco), about 2 miles south of the town of Pecos off NM 63, contains the ruins of a 15th-century pueblo and 17th- and 18th-century missions that jut up spectacularly from a high meadow. Coronado mentioned Pecos Pueblo in 1540: “It is feared through the land,” he wrote. The approximately 2,000 Native Americans here farmed in irrigated fields and hunted wild game. Their pueblo had 660 rooms and many kivas. By 1620, Franciscan monks had established a church and convent. Military and natural disasters took their toll on the pueblo, and in 1838, the 20 surviving Pecos went to live with relatives at the Jemez Pueblo.

The E. E. Fogelson Visitor Center tells the history of the Pecos people in a well-done, chronologically organized exhibit, complete with dioramas. A 1.5-mile loop trail begins at the center and continues through Pecos Pueblo and the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciuncula (as the church was formerly called). This excavated structure—170 feet long and 90 feet wide at the transept—was once the most magnificent church north of Mexico City.

Pecos National Historical Park is open daily 8am to 6pm (until 5pm Labor Day to Memorial Day). It’s closed January 1 and December 25. Admission is $3 per person age 17 and over.

Los Alamos & Bandelier National Monument

Pueblo tribes lived in the rugged Los Alamos area for well over 1,000 years, and an exclusive boys’ school operated atop the 7,300-foot plateau from 1918 to 1943. Then, the Los Alamos National Laboratory was established here in secrecy, code-named Site Y of the Manhattan Project, the hush-hush wartime program that developed the world’s first atomic bombs.

Project director J. Robert Oppenheimer, later succeeded by Norris E. Bradbury, worked along with thousands of scientists, engineers, and technicians in research, development, and production of those early weapons. Today, with an annual budget of $2 billion, the lab operates more than 2,100 facilities and employs about 11,000 people, making it the largest employer in northern New Mexico. The lab is operated by Los Alamos National Security, currently under a contract through the U.S. Department of Energy.

The laboratory is one of the world’s foremost scientific institutions. It primarily focuses on nuclear weapons research—the Trident and Minuteman strategic warheads were designed here, for example—and has many other interdisciplinary research programs, including international nuclear safeguards and nonproliferation, space, and atmospheric studies; supercomputing; theoretical physics; biomedical and materials science; and environmental restoration.

Currently Los Alamos National Laboratory is building a limited number of replacement plutonium pits for use in the enduring U.S. nuclear weapons stockpile. The lab has the only plutonium-processing facility in the United States that is capable of producing those components.

An unusual town, Los Alamos has the highest per capita Ph.D. population in the nation—22 percent. If you listen closely you may hear people talk of such complexities as quantum cryptography, trapdoor functions of polynomial integers, reciprocal space and heterogeneous multicores. With researchers convening here from all over the world, the accents range from Russian to French to Japanese and even a Texas twang or two.

Orientation/Useful Information

Los Alamos is about 35 miles west of Santa Fe and about 65 miles southwest of Taos. From Santa Fe, take US 84/285 north approximately 16 miles to the Pojoaque junction, then turn west on NM 502. Driving time is only about 50 minutes.

Los Alamos is a town of 18,000, spread over the colorful, fingerlike mesas of the Pajarito Plateau, between the Jemez Mountains and the Rio Grande Valley. As NM 502 enters Los Alamos from Santa Fe, it follows Trinity Drive, where accommodations, restaurants, and other services are located. Central Avenue parallels Trinity Drive and has restaurants, galleries, and shops.

The Los Alamos Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 460, Los Alamos, NM 87544 ( 505/662-8105; fax 505/662-8399; www.losalamoschamber.com), runs a visitor center that is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm and Sunday 10am to 3pm. It’s at 109 Central Park Sq. (across from the Bradbury Science Museum).

What to See & Do

Aside from the sights described below, Los Alamos offers the Pajarito Mountain ski area, Camp May Road (P.O. Box 155), Los Alamos, NM 87544 ( 505/662-5725; www.skipajarito.com), with five chairlifts—it’s only open on Friday through Sunday and federal holidays. It’s an outstanding ski area that rarely gets crowded; many trails are steep and have moguls. Los Alamos also offers the Los Alamos Golf Course, 4250 Diamond Dr. ( 505/662-8139; www.losalamosgolf.org), where greens fees are around $28 for 18 holes and $17 for 9 holes; and the Larry R. Walkup Aquatic Center, 2760 Canyon Rd. ( 505/662-8170; www.losalamosnm.us), the highest-altitude indoor Olympic-size swimming pool in the United States. Not far from downtown is the outdoor Los Alamos County Ice Rink, with a snack bar and skate rentals, open Thanksgiving to late February ( 505/662-4500; www.losalamosnm.us). It’s at 4475 West Rd. (take Trinity Dr. to Diamond St., turn left, and watch for the sign on your right). There are no outstanding restaurants in Los Alamos, but if you get hungry, you can stop at the Central Avenue Grill & Quark Bar ★, 1789 Central Ave., Ste. 8 ( 505/662-2005), a festive gathering place at the center of town that serves salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes and sushi. Science-minded folks gather here in the evenings over drinks. The chamber of commerce has maps for self-guided historical walking tours, and you can find self-guided driving-tour tapes at stores and hotels around town.

The Art Center at Fuller Lodge This is a public showcase for work by visual artists from northern New Mexico and the surrounding region. Two annual arts-and-crafts fairs are also held here in August and October. The gallery shop sells local crafts at good prices.

In the same building is the Los Alamos Arts Council ( 505/663-0477), a multidisciplinary organization that sponsors an art fair in May, as well as evening and noontime cultural programs.

2132 Central Ave., Los Alamos. 505/662-9331. www.artfulnm.org. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm.

Bradbury Science Museum ★ This is a great place to get acquainted with what goes on at a weapons production facility after nuclear proliferation. Although the museum is run by Los Alamos National Laboratory, which definitely puts a positive spin on the business of producing weapons, it’s a fascinating place to learn about—through dozens of interactive exhibits—the lab’s many contributions to science.

Begin in the History Gallery, where you’ll learn about the evolution of the site from the Los Alamos Ranch School days through the Manhattan Project to the present, including a 1939 letter from Albert Einstein to President Franklin D. Roosevelt, suggesting research into uranium as a new and important source of energy. Next, move into the Research and Technology Gallery, where you can see work that’s been done on the Human Genome Project, including a computer map of human DNA. You can try out a laser and learn about the workings of a particle accelerator. Meanwhile, listen for announcement of the film The Town That Never Was, a 16-minute presentation on this community that grew up shrouded in secrecy (shown in the auditorium). Further exploration will take you to the Defense Gallery, where you can test the heaviness of plutonium against that of other substances, see an actual 5-ton Little Boy nuclear bomb (like the one dropped on Hiroshima), and see firsthand how Los Alamos conducts worldwide surveillance of nuclear explosions.

15th St. and Central Ave., Los Alamos. 505/667-4444. www.lanl.gov/museum. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun–Mon 1–5pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas.

Los Alamos Historical Museum ★ Start your visit to this museum next door at Fuller Lodge, a massive vertical-log building built by John Gaw Meem in 1928. The log work is intricate and artistic, and the feel of the old place is warm and majestic. It once housed the dining and recreation hall for the Los Alamos Ranch School for boys and is now a National Historic Landmark. Its current occupants include the museum office and research archives and the Art Center at Fuller Lodge (see above). The museum, located in the small log-and-stone building to the north of Fuller Lodge, depicts area history from prehistoric cliff dwellers to the present. Exhibits range from Native American artifacts to school memorabilia and an excellent Manhattan Project exhibit that offers a more realistic view of the devastation resulting from use of atomic bombs than is offered at the Bradbury Science Museum.

1921 Juniper St., Los Alamos. 505/662-4493. www.losalamoshistory.org. Free admission. Summer Mon–Sat 9:30am–4:30pm, Sun 1–4pm; winter Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 1–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas.

Nearby

Bandelier National Monument ★★★ Less than 15 miles south of Los Alamos along NM 4, this site contains stunningly preserved ruins of the ancient cliff-dwelling ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) culture within 46 square miles of canyon-and-mesa wilderness. The national monument is named after the Swiss-American archaeologist Adolph Bandelier, who explored here in the 1880s. During busy summer months, head out early—there can be a waiting line for cars to park.

After an orientation stop at the visitor center and museum to learn about the culture that flourished here between 1100 and 1550, most visitors follow a trail along Frijoles Creek to the principal ruins. The pueblo site, including an underground kiva, has been stabilized. The biggest thrill for most folks is climbing hardy ponderosa pine ladders to visit an alcove—140 feet above the canyon floor—that was once home to prehistoric people. Tours are self-guided or led by a National Park Service ranger. Be aware that dogs are not allowed on trails.

On summer nights, rangers offer campfire talks about the history, culture, and geology of the area. During the day, nature programs are sometimes offered for adults and children. The small museum at the visitor center displays artifacts found in the area.

Elsewhere in the monument area, 70 miles of maintained trails lead to more ruins, waterfalls, and wildlife habitats. However, a number of years ago a fire decimated parts of this area, so periodic closings take place in order to allow the land to reforest.

The separate Tsankawi section, reached by an ancient 2-mile trail close to White Rock, has a large unexcavated ruin on a high mesa overlooking the Rio Grande Valley. The town of White Rock, about 10 miles southeast of Los Alamos on NM 4, offers spectacular panoramas of the river valley in the direction of Santa Fe; the White Rock Overlook is a great picnic spot. Within Bandelier, areas have been set aside for picnicking and camping.

NM 4 (HCR 1, Box 1, Ste. 15, Los Alamos). 505/672-3861, ext 517. www.nps.gov/band. Admission $12 per vehicle. Daily during daylight hours. No pets allowed on trails. Closed New Year’s Day, Christmas. From Santa Fe take US 84/285 north to Pojoaque. Exit west onto NM 502 toward Los Alamos. Bear right onto NM 4 toward White Rock and continue for 12 miles. Bandelier is on the left. Travel time is approximately 1 hr.

Inside a volcano

While you’re in the area, check out the Valles Caldera National Preserve, past Bandelier National Monument on NM 4, beginning about 15 miles from Los Alamos. The reserve is all that remains of a volcanic caldera created by a collapse after eruptions nearly a million years ago. When the mountain spewed ashes and dust as far away as Kansas and Nebraska, its underground magma chambers collapsed, forming this great valley—one of the largest volcanic calderas in the world. Lava domes that pushed up after the collapse obstruct a full view across the expanse, but the beauty of the place is still within grasp. Visitors have many guided options for exploring the preserve, from sleigh rides and snowshoeing in winter to fly-fishing and horseback riding in summer. For more information, contact 866/382-5537 (www.vallescaldera.gov).

Taking the High Road to Taos ★★

Unless you’re in a hurry to get from Santa Fe to Taos, the High Road—also called the Mountain Road or the King’s Road—is by far the most fascinating route between the two cities. It begins in lowlands of mystically formed pink and yellow stone, passing by apple and peach orchards and chile farms in the weaving village of Chimayo. Then it climbs toward the highlands to the village of Cordova, known for its woodcarvers, and higher still to Truchas, a renegade arts town where Hispanic traditions and ways of life continue much as they did a century ago. Though I’ve described this tour from south to north, the most scenic way to see it is from north to south, when you travel down off the mountains rather than up into them. This way, you see more expansive views.

Chimayo

About 28 miles north of Santa Fe on NM 76/285 is the historic weaving center of Chimayo. It’s approximately 16 miles past the Pojoaque junction, at the junction of NM 520 and NM 76 via NM 503. In this small village, families still maintain the tradition of crafting hand-woven textiles initiated by their ancestors seven generations ago, in the early 1800s. One such family is the Ortegas, and Ortega’s Weaving Shop ( 505/351-4215; www.ortegasweaving.com) and Galeria Ortega ★ ( 505/351-2288; www.galeriaortegainc.com), both at the corner of NM 520 and NM 76, are fine places to take a close look at this ancient craft. A more humble spot is Trujillo Weaving Shop ( 505/351-4457) on NM 76. If you’re lucky enough to find the proprietors in, you might get a weaving history lesson. You can see a 100-year-old loom and an even older shuttle carved from apricot wood. The weavings you’ll find are some of the best of the Rio Grande style, with rich patterns, many made from naturally dyed wool. Also on display are some fine Cordova woodcarvings. Also check out Centinela Traditional Arts, 946 NM 76 ( 505/351-2180; www.chimayoweavers.com), for a good selection of rugs made by weavers from up and down the Rio Grande Valley. Watch for the chenille shawls by Lore Wills.

One of the best places to shop in Chimayo, Chimayo Trading and Mercantile ★ ( 505/351-4566), on NM 76, is a richly cluttered store carrying Pueblo pottery, Navajo weavings, and local arts and crafts as well as select imports. It has a good selection of katsinas and Hopi corn maidens. Look for George Zarolinski’s fused glass.

Many people come to Chimayo to visit El Santuario de Nuestro Señor de Esquipulas (The Shrine of Our Lord of Esquipulas) ★★ ( 505/351-4360; holyfamily@cybermesa.com), better known simply as El Santuario de Chimayo. Ascribed with miraculous powers of healing, this church has attracted thousands of pilgrims since its construction in 1816. Up to 30,000 people participate in the annual Good Friday pilgrimage, many of them walking from as far away as Albuquerque. Although only the earth in the anteroom beside the altar is presumed to have the gift of healing powers, the entire shrine radiates true serenity. A National Historic Landmark, the church has five beautiful reredos (panels of sacred paintings)—one behind the main altar and two on each side of the nave. Each year during the fourth weekend in July, the military exploits of the 9th-century Spanish saint Santiago are celebrated in a weekend fiesta, including games and music. The Santuario is open daily March to September 9am to 6pm and October to February 9am to 5pm. Please remember that this is a place of worship, so quiet is always appreciated.

Where to Stay

Casa Escondida ★ On the outskirts of Chimayo, this inn is a good home base for exploring the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and their many soulful farming villages. Decor is simple and classic, with Mission-style furniture lending a colonial feel. The breakfast room is a sunny atrium with French doors that open out in summer to a grassy yard spotted with apricot trees. The rooms are varied; all of my favorites are within the main house. The Sun Room catches all that passionate northern New Mexico sun upon its red brick floors and on its private flagstone patio as well. It has an elegant feel and connects with a smaller room, so it’s a good choice for families. The Vista is on the second story. It has a wrought-iron queen-size bed as well a twin, and it opens out onto a large deck offering spectacular sunset views. The casita adjacent to the main house has a kiva fireplace, a stove, and a minifridge, as well as nice meadow views.

P.O. Box 142, Chimayo, NM 87522. 800/643-7201 or 505/351-4805. Fax 505/351-2575. www.casaescondida.com. 8 units. $99–$159 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Pets welcome in four rooms for a small fee; prearrangement required. Amenities: Jacuzzi. In room: Kitchenette (in 1 room), no phone.

Where to Dine

Restaurante Rancho de Chimayo ★★ NEW MEXICAN For as long as I can remember, my family and many of my friends’ families have scheduled trips into northern New Mexico to coincide with lunch or dinner at this atmospheric restaurant. In an adobe home built by Hermenegildo Jaramillo in the 1880s, it’s now run as a restaurant by his descendants. Over the years the restaurant has become so famous that tour buses now stop here. However, the food is still delicious. In the warmer months, request to dine on the terraced patio. During winter, you’ll be seated in the atrium or one of a number of cozy rooms with thick viga ceilings. The food is native New Mexican, prepared from generations-old Jaramillo family recipes. You can’t go wrong with the chicken enchiladas with green chile. For variety you might want to try the combinación picante (carne adovada, tamale, enchilada, beans, and posole). Each plate comes with a fluffy sopaipilla. With a little honey, who needs dessert? The full bar serves tasty margaritas.

300 CR 98 (1⁄4 mile west of the Santuario), Chimayo, NM 87522. 505/984-2100. www.ranchodechimayo.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$10 lunch, $9–$21 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. May–Oct daily 11:30am–9pm, Sat–Sun breakfast 8:30–10:30am; Nov–Apr Tues–Sun 11:30am–8:30pm.

High on art

If you really like art and want to meet artists, check out one of the Art Studio Tours held in the fall in the region. Artists spend months preparing their best work, then open their doors to visitors. Wares range from pottery and paintings to furniture and woodcarvings to ristras and dried-flower arrangements. The most notable tour is the High Road Studio Art Tour (www.highroadnewmexico.com) in mid- to late September. If you’re not in the region during that time, watch the newspapers (such as the Santa Fe New Mexican’s Friday edition, “Pasatiempo”) for notices of other art-studio tours. Good ones are held in Galisteo (in mid-Oct; www.galisteostudiotour.com); Abiquiu (early Sept; www.abiquiustudiotour.org); El Rito (mid-Oct; www.elritostudiotour.org); and Dixon (early Nov; www.dixonarts.org). If you’re not here during those times, you can still visit many of the galleries listed on the websites.

Cordova

Just as Chimayo is famous for its weaving, the village of Cordova, about 7 miles east on NM 76, is noted for its woodcarving. It’s easy to whiz by this village, nestled below the High Road, but don’t. Just a short way through this truly traditional northern New Mexico town is a gem: The Castillo Gallery ★ ( 505/351-4067), a mile into the village of Cordova, carries moody and colorful acrylic paintings by Paula Castillo, as well as her metal welded sculptures. It also carries the work of Terry Enseñat Mulert, whose contemporary woodcarvings are treasures of the high country. En route to the Castillo, you may want to stop in at two other local carvers’ galleries. The first you’ll come to is that of Sabinita Lopez Ortiz; the second belongs to her cousin, Gloria Ortiz. Both are descendants of the noted José Dolores Lopez. Carved from cedar wood and aspen, their works range from simple santos (statues of saints) to elaborate scenes of birds.

Truchas

Robert Redford’s 1988 movie The Milagro Beanfield War featured the town of Truchas (which means “trout”). A former Spanish colonial outpost built on top of an 8,000-foot mesa, 4 miles east of Cordova, it was chosen as the site for the film in part because traditional Hispanic culture is still very much in evidence. Subsistence farming is prevalent here. The scenery is spectacular: 13,101-foot Truchas Peak dominates one side of the mesa, and the broad Rio Grande Valley dominates the other.

Look for the High Road Marketplace ★ ( 866/343-5381 or 505/689-2689), an artists’ co-op gallery with a variety of offerings ranging from jewelry to landscape paintings to a broad range of crosses made from tin, rusted metal, and nails. Be sure to find your way into the Cordovas’ Handweaving Workshop ( 505/689-1124). In the center of town, this tiny shop is run by Harry Cordova, a fourth-generation weaver with a unique style. His works tend to be simpler than many Rio Grande weavings, using mainly stripes in the designs.

Just down the road from Cordovas’ is Hand Artes Gallery ( 800/689-2441 or 505/689-2443), a definite surprise in this remote region. Here you’ll find an array of contemporary as well as representational art from noted regional artists. Look for Sheila Keeffe’s worldly painted panels, and Norbert Voelkel’s colorful paintings and monoprints.

About 6 miles east of Truchas on NM 76 is the small town of Las Trampas, noted for its 1780 San José de Gracia Church, which, with its thick walls and elegant lines, might possibly be the most beautiful of all New Mexico churches built during the Spanish colonial period.

Picuris (San Lorenzo) Pueblo & Peñasco

Not far from the regional education center of Peñasco, about 24 miles from Chimayo, near the intersection of NM 75 and NM 76, is the Picuris (San Lorenzo) Pueblo ( 575/587-2519; www.indianpueblo.org/19pueblos/picuris.html). The 375 citizens of this 15,000-acre mountain pueblo, native Tewa speakers, consider themselves a sovereign nation: Their forebears never made a treaty with any foreign country, including the United States. Thus, they observe a traditional form of tribal council government. A few of the original mud-and-stone houses still stand, as does a lovely church. A striking aboveground ceremonial kiva called “the Roundhouse,” built at least 700 years ago, and some historic excavated kivas and storerooms are on a hill above the pueblo and are open to visitors. The annual feast days at San Lorenzo Church are August 9 and 10.

The people here are modern enough to have fully computerized their public showcase operations as Picuris Tribal Enterprises. Besides running the Hotel Santa Fe in the state capital, they own the Picuris Pueblo Museum and Visitor’s Center, where weaving, beadwork, and distinctive reddish-brown clay cooking pottery are exhibited daily 8am to 5pm. Self-guided tours through the old village ruins begin at the museum and cost $5; the camera fee is $6; sketching and video camera fees are $25. There’s also an information center, crafts shop, and restaurant. Fishing permits ($11 for all ages) are available, as are permits to camp ($8) at Tu-Tah Lake, which is regularly stocked with trout.

You might want to plan your High Road trip to include a visit to Sugar Nymphs Bistro ★★, 15046 NM 75 ( 575/587-0311), for some inventive food. Inside a vintage theater in the little farming village of Peñasco, Kai Harper, former executive chef at Greens in San Francisco, prepares contemporary bistro cuisine, using local and seasonal ingredients. Lunch brings imaginative pizza, salads, and burgers, while dinner includes a full range of entrees. Some of my favorites include a goat-cheese salad and a chicken breast with green-chile cream. All breads and desserts are baked in-house by Kai’s partner, Ki Holste, including a delectable chocolate-pecan pie. It goes great with a range of coffee drinks, including a perfect latte. The Bistro also sponsors family-oriented events in the theater. In summer, the cafe is open Tuesday to Saturday 11:30am to 3pm and Thursday to Saturday 5:30 to 7:30 or 8pm, with Sunday brunch 10am to 2pm. In winter, spring, and fall, the schedule is abbreviated. Call ahead to be sure it’s open.

Dixon & Embudo

Taos is about 24 miles north of Peñasco via NM 518, but day-trippers from Santa Fe can loop back to the capital by taking NM 75 west from Picuris Pueblo. Dixon, approximately 12 miles west of Picuris, and its twin village Embudo, a mile farther on NM 68 at the Rio Grande, are home to many artists and craftspeople who exhibit their works during the annual autumn show sponsored by the Dixon Arts Association. If you get to Embudo at mealtime, stop in at Embudo Station ( 505/852-4707; www.embudostation.com), a restaurant right on the banks of the Rio Grande. From mid-April to October—the only time it’s open—you can sit on the patio under giant cottonwoods and sip the restaurant’s own microbrewed beer (try the green-chile ale, its most celebrated) and signature wines while watching the peaceful Rio flow by. The specialty here is Southwestern food, but you’ll find other tantalizing tastes as well. Try the rainbow trout roasted on a cedar plank. The restaurant is generally open Tuesday to Sunday noon to 9pm, but call before making plans. It’s especially known for its jazz on Sunday, an affair that PBS once featured.

To taste more of the local grape, follow signs to La Chiripada Winery ( 505/579-4437; www.lachiripada.com), whose product is quite good, especially to those who don’t know that New Mexico has a long winemaking history. Local pottery is also sold in the tasting room. The winery is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sunday noon to 5pm.

Two more small villages lie in the Rio Grande Valley at 6-mile intervals south of Embudo on NM 68. Velarde is a fruit-growing center; in fall, the road here is lined with stands selling fresh fruit or crimson chile ristras and wreaths of native plants. Alcalde is the site of Los Luceros, a restored early-17th-century home that will soon house a school for Native American and Hispanic filmmakers. The school is a collaboration between the state of New Mexico and actor Robert Redford. The unique Dance of the Matachines, a Moorish-style ritual brought from Spain, is performed here on holidays and feast days.

Española

The commercial center of Española (pop. 9,688) no longer has the railroad that led to its establishment in the 1880s, but it may have New Mexico’s greatest concentration of lowriders. These are late-model customized cars, so called because their suspension leaves them sitting quite close to the ground. For details, see the box below.

lowriders: Car Art

While cruising Española’s main drag, don’t drop your jaw if you see the front of a car rise up off the ground and then sink down again, or if you witness another that appears to be scraping its underbelly on the pavement. These novelties are part of a car culture that thrives in northern New Mexico. Traditionally, the owners use late-model cars, which they soup up with such novelties as elaborate chrome, metal chain steering wheels, even portraits of Our Lady of Guadalupe painted on the hood. If you’re interested in seeing the Custom Car and Truck Show put on by local car clubs (and often cosponsored by local casinos), call the Española Valley Chamber of Commerce for information ( 505/753-2831; www.espanolanmchamber.com).

Sights of interest in Española include the Bond House Museum ( 505/747-8535), a Victorian-era adobe home that exhibits local history and art, and the Santa Cruz Church, built in 1733 and renovated in 1979, which houses many fine examples of Spanish colonial religious art. The Convento, built to resemble a colonial cathedral, on the Española Plaza (at the junction of NM 30 and US 84), houses a variety of shops, including a trading post and an antiques gallery, as well as a display room for the Historical Society. Major events include the July Fiesta de Oñate, commemorating the valley’s founding in 1596; the October Tri-Cultural Art Festival on the Northern New Mexico Community College campus; the weeklong Summer Solstice celebration staged in June by the nearby Hacienda de Guru Ram Das ( 888/346-2420); and Peace Prayer Day, an outdoor festival in mid-June—featuring art, music, food, guest speakers, and more—in the Jemez Mountains ( 877/707-3221; www.peaceprayerday.org).

Complete information on Española and the vicinity can be obtained from the Española Valley Chamber of Commerce, no. 1 Calle de Las Espanolas, NM 87532 ( 505/753-2831; www.espanolanmchamber.com).

If you admire the work of Georgia O’Keeffe, try to plan a short trip to Abiquiu, a tiny town at a bend of the Rio Chama, 14 miles south of Ghost Ranch and 22 miles north of Española on US 84. When you see the surrounding terrain, it will be clear that this was the inspiration for many of her startling landscapes. O’Keeffe’s adobe home ★ (where she lived and painted) is open for public tours. However, a reservation must be made in advance; the fee for adults is $30 (some discounts apply) for a 1-hour tour. A number of tours are given each week—on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday (mid-Mar to late Nov only)—and a limited number of people are accepted per tour. Visitors are not permitted to take pictures. Fortunately, O’Keeffe’s home remains as it was when she lived there (until 1986). Call several months in advance for reservations ( 505/685-4539; www.okeeffemuseum.org).

If you’re in the area and need gas for your car or a snack for yourself (or goodies for a picnic), stop in at Bode’s on US 84 in Abiquiu ( 505/685-4422). The general store for the area, this place has shovels and irrigation boots, and better yet, cold drinks, gourmet sandwiches, and other deli items—even a hearty green-chile stew.

Georgia O’Keeffe & New Mexico: A desert romance

In June 1917, during a short visit to the Southwest, the painter Georgia O’Keeffe (b. 1887) visited New Mexico for the first time. She was immediately enchanted by the stark scenery; even after her return to the energy and chaos of New York City, her mind wandered frequently to New Mexico’s arid land and undulating mesas. However, not until coaxed by the arts patron and “collector of people” Mabel Dodge Luhan 12 years later did O’Keeffe return to the multihued desert of her daydreams.

O’Keeffe was reportedly ill, both physically and emotionally, when she arrived in Santa Fe in April 1929. New Mexico seemed to soothe her spirit and heal her physical ailments almost magically. Two days after her arrival, Luhan persuaded O’Keeffe to move into her home in Taos. There, she would be free to paint and socialize as she liked.

In Taos, O’Keeffe began painting what would become some of her best-known canvases—close-ups of desert flowers and objects such as cow and horse skulls. “The color up there is different . . . the blue-green of the sage and the mountains, the wildflowers in bloom,” O’Keeffe once said of Taos. “It’s a different kind of color from any I’ve ever seen—there’s nothing like that in north Texas or even in Colorado.” Taos transformed not only her art, but her personality as well. She bought a car and learned to drive. Sometimes, on warm days, she ran naked through the sage fields. That August, a new, rejuvenated O’Keeffe rejoined her husband, photographer Alfred Stieglitz, in New York.

The artist returned to New Mexico year after year, spending time with Luhan as well as staying at the isolated Ghost Ranch. She drove through the countryside in her snappy Ford, stopping to paint in her favorite spots along the way. Until 1949, O’Keeffe always returned to New York in the fall. Three years after Stieglitz’s death, though, O’Keeffe relocated permanently to New Mexico, spending each winter and spring in Abiquiu and each summer and fall at Ghost Ranch. Georgia O’Keeffe died in Santa Fe in 1986.

A great way to see Ghost Ranch is on a hike that climbs above the mystical area. Take US 84 north from Española about 36 miles to Ghost Ranch and follow the road to the Ghost Ranch office. The ranch is owned by the Presbyterian Church, and the staff will supply you with a primitive map for the Kitchen Mesa and Chimney Rock hikes. If you hike there, be sure to check in at the front desk, which is open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 5pm. For more information, contact Ghost Ranch, 401 Old Taos Hwy., Santa Fe ( 505/685-4333; www.ghostranch.org).

Where to Stay & Dine

A fun side trip while in the area is the village of El Rito. One of the state’s best chile spots is there, at the family-owned restaurant El Farolito ★★ at 1212 Main St. ( 575/581-9509). The remote place has been written about in Gourmet and Travel + Leisure, and it’s no wonder—their enchiladas are some of the best in the state. The hours vary, so call ahead.

El Paragua ★ NORTHERN NEW MEXICAN Every time I enter El Paragua (which means “the umbrella”), with its red-tile floors and colorful Saltillo-tile trimmings, I feel as though I’ve stepped into Mexico. The restaurant opened in 1958 as a small taco stand owned by two brothers, and through the years it has received praise from many sources, including Gourmet magazine and N. Scott Momaday, writing for the New York Times. You can’t go wrong ordering the enchilada suprema, a chicken-and-cheese enchilada with onion and sour cream. Also on the menu are fajitas and a variety of seafood dishes and steaks, including the churrasco Argentino. Served at your table in a hot brazier, it’s cooked in a green-herb salsa chimichurri. There’s a full bar from which you may want to try Don Luis’s Italian coffee, made with a coffee-flavored liquor called Tuaca. For equally excellent but faster food, skip next door to the kin restaurant El Parasol ★ and order a guacamole chicken taco—the best in the region.

603 Santa Cruz Rd., Española (off the main drag; turn east at Long John Silver’s). 505/753-3211. www.elparagua.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat 9am–9pm; Sun 9am–8pm.

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa ★★ This newly renovated retreat offers fine lodging and quality soaks and spa treatments. A National Historic Site, no other hot spring in the world has Ojo Caliente’s combination of minerals, and these are split into separate pools so visitors can partake of the healing qualities of each. If the weather is warm enough, the outdoor mud bath is a treat.

The lodging options range from posh cliffside rooms with fireplaces and their own mineral soaking tubs on a patio to very basic ones with a shared shower. Lodging rates include access to all mineral pools for both the day of arrival and the day of departure.

The pools are open daily 8am to 10pm. Children 12 and under are welcome in the springs from 10am to 6pm in the large pool only and with adult supervision. Mineral springs entry Monday to Thursday costs $16 adult and $12 for children 12 and under; Friday to Sunday and holidays, it’s $24 adult and $18 children, with reduced rates after 6pm. Private pools are available.

50 Los Baños Dr., Ojo Caliente, NM 87549. 800/222-9162. Fax 505/583-9198. www.ojospa.com. 48 units. $119–$329 double; $399–$449 house for 4 guests. Additional person $50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bikes; concierge; pool; sauna; spa; steam room. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi. On US 285, 45 miles northwest of Santa Fe and 50 miles southwest of Taos.

Rancho de San Juan Country Inn & Three Forks Restaurant ★★★ Thirty-eight miles from Santa Fe, between Española and Ojo Caliente, this inn set on 225 acres provides an authentic northern New Mexico desert experience with the comforts of a luxury hotel. The original part of the inn comprises four recently renovated and enlarged rooms around a central courtyard, all with fireplaces. Additional casitas with kitchens are in the outlying hills. Rooms here are open, bright, and decorated with a creative mix from the owners’ personal art collections. From private patios, you’ll enjoy spectacular views of desert landscapes and distant, snow-capped peaks. The Kiva Suite is the most innovative, with a round bedroom and a skylight just above the bed, perfect for stargazing. Meals at the Three Forks Restaurant are delicious, served in a room with contemporary decor that looks out on the desert.

US 285 (en route to Ojo Caliente), P.O. Box 4140, Fairview Station, Española, NM 87533. 505/753-6818. www.ranchodesanjuan.com. 13 units. $285–$485 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; massage and other spa treatments. In room: A/C (in most), CD player, fridge, hair dryer.