Chapter 11: Southwestern New Mexico

Southwestern New Mexico

This region, defined by the border with Mexico and cloaked by the 3.3-million-acre Gila National Forest, offers ruggedness and remoteness, and always an echo of history. It’s the region that wealthy Zacatecan mine owner Juan de Oñate passed through in 1598 to take possession of the territory for the Spanish king.

It was and still is a good place to hide out. Billy the Kid lived here; so did Geronimo. You’ll stumble upon relics of their past at many junctures. You’ll see thousands of snow geese taking flight at the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. You can even contemplate the vastness of space at the Very Large Array (VLA), the world’s most powerful radio telescope.

The most settled part of the area is down the center of the state, where the Rio Grande marks a distinct riparian line. Throughout history, this river has nourished the Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo settlers who have built their homes beside its banks. The river land was especially fertile around modern Las Cruces; the settlement of La Mesilla was southern New Mexico’s major center for 3 centuries.

West of the river, the Black Range and Mogollon Mountains rise in the area now cloaked by Gila National Forest. This was the homeland of the Mogollon Indians 1,000 years ago. Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument preserves one of their great legacies. This was also the homeland of the fiercely independent Chiricahua Apaches in the 19th century. Considered the last North American Indians to succumb to the whites, they counted Cochise and Geronimo among their leaders.

Mining and outdoor recreation, centered in historic Silver City (pop. 10,000), are the economic stanchions of the region. But dozens of mining towns have boomed and busted in the past 140 years, as a smattering of ghost towns throughout the region attest. Mining continues in the region but with little certainty. Some towns such as Silver City and Hillsboro now survive because artists have opened galleries on the Old West streets.

Las Cruces, at the foot of the Organ Mountains, is New Mexico’s second largest city, with 95,000 people. It’s a busy agricultural and education center. North up the valley are Truth or Consequences (pop. 6,800), a spa town named for the 1950s radio and TV game show, and Socorro (pop. 9,000), a historic city with Spanish roots. West, on the I-10 corridor to Arizona, are the ranching centers of Deming (pop. 15,500) and Lordsburg (pop. 2,800).

Southwestern New Mexico’s Great Outdoors

Rugged, remote, forested, and fascinating all describe southwestern New Mexico, where few tourists venture—lucky for you if you’re looking for backcountry adventure. The general website for all the New Mexico State Parks listed below is www.nmparks.com.

Biking Bikes are not allowed in the Gila Wilderness, but they are permitted on trails in other parts of Gila National Forest ( 575/388-8201; www.fs.usda.gov/gila). Refer to “Other Adventures in Gila National Forest,” later in this chapter, for some specific ride suggestions and contact Gila Hike and Bike ( 575/388-3222) in Silver City for rentals and guidebooks to riding in the Gila National Forest.

Bird-Watching Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge ( 575/835-1828) is a refuge for migratory waterfowl such as snow geese and cranes. (See “Seeing the Sights Near Socorro,” below.) North Monticello Point ( 575/517-7720), on Elephant Butte Lake, is a great place to see pelicans, bald eagles, and a variety of waterfowl, while Water Canyon ( 575/854-2281), 14 miles west of Socorro in the Cíbola National Forest, is home to golden eagles. The Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge ( 575/864-4021; www.fws.gov/southwest), north of Socorro between La Joya and Chamizal, is a long-term ecological research site under the direction of the National Science Foundation. Its visitor center has exhibits about the refuge. The Mesilla Valley Bosque State Park, southwest of Mesilla in Las Cruses ( 575/523-4398), has a visitor center with displays that describe the bosque restoration here and offers Saturday guided birding tours. Call for a schedule. The refuge offers free tours during its open house, the second Saturday in October. In recent years, the Gila National Forest ( 575/388-8201; www.fs.usda.gov/gila) has become quite popular with birders. In the Gila, my favorite birding spot is Lake Roberts, where hummingbirds abound.

Hummingbird Safari at Lake Roberts

At the Annual Hummingbirds of New Mexico Festival ( 575/536-3206; www.hbnm.org) in the village of Lake Roberts, the third week in July, bird lovers can watch as little cuffs are placed on hummingbird ankles, a remarkable process called “banding” to help identify them and learn about their lives. The weekend includes talks, guided walks, arts-and-crafts booths, and baked goods for sale.

Boating In the Gila National Forest, both Lake Roberts ( 575/536-2250), about 40 miles north of Silver City on NM 15, and Snow Lake ( 575/533-6231), north on US 180 from Silver City and then east on NM 159, allow boating. Lake Roberts features motorboat rentals, whereas Snow Lake only permits canoes, rowboats, and other boats without gas motors.

Elephant Butte Lake State Park ( 575/744-5923) boasts the largest body of water in New Mexico. The lake is 43 miles long and popular with boating enthusiasts. Three ramps provide boating access to the lake, and there are launching areas for smaller vessels.

Fishing Caballo Lake State Park ( 575/743-3942), about 18 miles south of Truth or Consequences, offers smallmouth and largemouth bass, stripers, bluegill, crappie, catfish, and walleye fishing in its 11,500-acre lake. Elephant Butte Lake State Park ( 575/744-5923), also near Truth or Consequences, is another great fishing location. Look to catch white bass, black bass, catfish, walleye, crappie, and stripers here. Lake Roberts ( 575/536-2250), about 40 miles north of Silver City in the Gila National Forest, is prime rainbow trout fishing waters. A fishing license and habitat stamp are both required. You’ll find fly-fishing in the Gila River year-round, but the best seasons are spring and fall. Mainly rainbow trout swim these waters, with catfish on the lower Gila. For more information, contact the New Mexico Game and Fish Department ( 505/476-8000; www.wildlife.state.nm.us).

Golf In Socorro, the 18-hole New Mexico Tech Golf Course ( 575/835-5335; www.nmt.edu) offers tree-lined fairways and water on more than half of its holes. The Truth or Consequences Golf Course ( 575/894-2603) offers 9 fairly traditional holes in a desert setting. But the new Sierra del Rio Golf Course at Turtleback Mountain Resort ( 575/744-4653; www.sierradelrio.com), opened in 2007, offers 18 holes that area golfers are talking about. Another contemporary course is in Las Cruces, at the 18-hole Sonoma Ranch Golf Course ( 575/521-1818; www.sonomaranchgolf.com), which opened in 2000. Las Cruces also has the New Mexico State University Golf Course ( 575/646-3219; www.nmsugolf.com), built with collegiate golf in mind. With wide-spanning views and undulating terrain, this Cal Olsen–designed course has much to offer. Deming has the 18-hole Rio Mimbres Country Club ( 575/546-9481), while Silver City golfers go to the 18-hole Silver City Golf Course ( 575/538-5041; www.silvercity.org/golf), home to the annual Billy Casper Golf Tournament.

Hiking It goes without saying that there’s great hiking available in the Gila National Forest ( 575/388-8201; www.nps.gov/gicl), which has approximately 1,500 miles of trails, ranging in length and difficulty. Your best bet for hiking in the area is to purchase a guidebook devoted entirely to hiking the Gila National Forest, but popular areas include the Crest Trail, the West Fork Trail, and the Aldo Leopold Wilderness. One favorite day hike in the forest is the Catwalk, a moderately strenuous hike along a series of steel bridges and walkways suspended over Whitewater Canyon. See “Other Adventures in Gila National Forest,” later in this chapter, for more hiking suggestions. Whenever and wherever you go hiking, be sure to carry plenty of water.

Horseback Riding If you want to go horseback riding, the Double E Guest Ranch ( 575/535-2048; www.doubleeranch.com) offers authentic ranch riding in the southwestern New Mexico desert and forest lands. Because the ranch is also a working cattle ranch, it has an authentic feel, and a guest capacity of only 12 adds to the experience. About a half-hour from Silver City, the ranch sits on a shady bend of Bear Creek, which draws plenty of wildlife. The accommodations are in old ranch buildings, which range from cozy to expansive. These are not luxury rooms—they’re real ranch lodgings. The ranch does not have a separate children’s program but does accept kids.

Hot Springs This is hot springs country. For locations in Truth or Consequences, call 800/831-9487 or 575/894-3536, or see “Truth or Consequences,” later in this chapter for my choices of bathhouses. Lightfeather Hot Spring is a spring near the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument visitor center.

Swimming Swimming is permitted at Elephant Butte Lake State Park ( 575/744-5923) and Caballo Lake State Park ( 575/743-3942), but not at some others. Be sure to ask first.

Socorro & the VLA

Socorro, a quiet, pleasant town of about 9,000, is an unusual mix of the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries. Established as a mining settlement and ranching center, its downtown area is dominated by numerous mid-1800s buildings and the 17th-century San Miguel Mission. The New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology (New Mexico Tech) is a major research center. Socorro is also the gateway to a vast and varied two-county region that includes the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, the Very Large Array National Radio Astronomy Observatory (VLA), and three national forests.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-25 south (1 1/4 hr.). From Las Cruces, take I-25 north (2 3/4 hr.).

Visitor Information The Socorro County Chamber of Commerce, which is also the visitor information headquarters, is at 101 Plaza (P.O. Box 743), Socorro, NM 87801 ( 575/835-0424; www.socorro-nm.com).

Exploring Socorro

The best introduction to Socorro is a walking tour of the historic district. A brochure with a map and guidebook, available at the chamber of commerce on the plaza, where the tour begins, points out several historic buildings, many on the National Register of Historic Places.

You’ll definitely want to check out the old Val Verde Hotel. The horseshoe-shaped Val Verde, a National Historic Landmark, was built in 1919 in California Mission style. It’s been converted to apartments. Another interesting spot is the Fullingim-Isenhour-Leard Gallery, 113-C W. Abeyta St., just off the plaza ( 575/835-4487; www.figalleries.com). In a historic building, four artists share their bronze-work, paintings, and etchings. If you’re craving a cappuccino or latte while in Socorro, head to the Manzanares Street Coffee House ★, 110 Manzanares St. ( 575/838-0809). As well as coffee drinks, the shop offers good sandwiches on focaccia, salads, and house-made gelato and pastries. It’s also a wireless Internet zone.

Cruising the Royal Road

As you skim across the open desert on Interstate 25, take heart in knowing that you’re following an ancient route: El Camino Real, or the Royal Road that ran from Mexico to San Juan Pueblo north of Santa Fe. It’s older than recorded history, traveled first by indigenous people. Later the Spaniards, beginning with Juan de Oñate in 1598, made their way north on it, seeking adventure and prosperity. They brought herds of horses and cattle, flocks of sheep and goats, and, most transformative, Catholicism. In subsequent centuries it continued to be the main road for travelers and traders carrying goods and ideas. Eventually it connected up with the Santa Fe Trail, which was the east-west route from Missouri. To find out more about this route, visit the El Camino Real International Heritage Center. See below for details.

Other Attractions

El Camino Real International Heritage Center ★ This museum, opened in 2005, tells the story of El Camino Real, the 1,500-mile international trade route from Mexico to San Juan Pueblo, near Santa Fe. The impressive $5-million, 20,000-square-foot structure, set in the middle of the desert, is an award-winning building perched like a ship above Sheep Canyon between Socorro and Truth or Consequences. In fact, the center is designed with ship elements, including a bowsprit on the helm. “The journey across this area reminded travelers of crossing the sea, with its tufts of grass, mirages, and overwhelming silence,” says Monument Ranger Dave Wunker. The real fun starts in the exhibit hall, where visitors get to travel the trail themselves, beginning at Zacatecas Plaza in Mexico, one of many stops along the road. Artifacts from the Camino days—a caja fuerte (strong box) and an Apache water jug—help tell the story.

CR 1598, 30 miles south of Socorro. From I-25 take exit 115 and follow the signs. 575/854-3600. www.nmmonuments.org. Admission $5 adults; free for children 16 and under. Wed–Sun 8:30am–5pm.

Mineral Museum Run by the New Mexico Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources, this museum has the largest geological collection in the state. Its more than 15,000 specimens include mineral samples from all over the world, fossils, mining artifacts, and photographs.

Campus Rd., New Mexico Tech campus. 575/835-5420. www.geoinfo.nmt.edu/museum. Free admission. Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–3pm.

Old San Miguel Mission ★★ Built between 1615 and 1626 and abandoned during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, this graceful church was subsequently restored, and a new wing was built in 1853. It boasts thick adobe walls, large carved vigas (rafters), and supporting corbel arches. English-language Masses are Saturday at 5 and 7pm and Sunday at 8am, 10am, and 12:30pm.

403 El Camino Real NW, 2 blocks north of the plaza. 575/835-2891. www.sdc.org/~smiguel. Free admission. Mon–Fri 8am–7:30pm (winter till 6:30pm).

Seeing the Sights Near Socorro

South of Socorro The village of San Antonio, the boyhood home of Conrad Hilton, is 10 miles from Socorro via I-25. During the financial panic of 1907, his merchant father, Augustus Hilton, converted part of his store into a rooming house. This gave Conrad his first exposure to the hospitality industry, and he went on to worldwide fame as a hotelier. Only ruins of the store/boardinghouse remain.

West of Socorro US 60, running west to Arizona, is the avenue to several points of interest. Magdalena, 27 miles from Socorro, is a mining and ranching town that preserves an 1880s Old West spirit. In mid-November, this little town holds its Fall Festival, which includes a variety of studio tours, artist demonstrations, and a silent auction. If you want to stay in Magdalena, I recommend the Western Bed and Breakfast & RV Park, 404 First St. ( 575/854-2417; www.thewesternmotel.com), a rustic motel with pine walls decorating most rooms. The Magdalena Café & Steakhouse ★, 109 S. Main St. ( 575/854-2696), set in a historic building, serves burgers, enchiladas, and steaks. It’s open Monday to Friday 7am to 1:30pm, Thursday and Friday 5 to 7pm, and Saturday 7am to 12:30pm.

Three miles south, the ghost town of Kelly produced more than $40 million worth of lead, zinc, copper, silver, and gold in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The Pie Way

The long stretch of highway on US 60 between Socorro and Quemado offers few islands on its vast sea of grass. One of them is Pie Town. In the 1920s, a Texan named Clyde Norman settled here, started baking and selling pies, and his talent won the town a name. It has even been written up in Smithsonian Magazine. Set along the Continental Divide, today the Pie-O-Neer cafe, on US 60 ( 575/772-2711; www.pie-o-neer.com) offers up a treat worth clocking the miles for. The cafe bakes a variety of pies daily—the specialty is apple. Simple meals, such as burgers and green-chile stew, are offered as well. The town’s Pie Festival takes place in mid-September.

Fifty-four miles west of Socorro via US 60 is the Very Large Array National Radio Astronomy Observatory (VLA) ★★ (the Socorro office is at 1003 Lopezville Rd. NW; 575/835-7000; www.nrao.edu). Here, 27 dish-shaped antennas, each 82 feet in diameter, are spread across the plains of San Agustin, forming a single gigantic radio telescope. Many recognize the site from the 1997 movie Contact, starring Jodie Foster. Photographs taken with this apparatus are similar to those taken with the largest optical telescopes, except that radio telescopes are sensitive to low-frequency radio waves. All types of celestial objects are photographed, including the sun and its planets, stars, quasars, galaxies, and even the faint remains of the “big bang” that scientists believe occurred some 10 billion years ago. On the outdoor, self-guided walking tour, you’ll have a chance to get a closer look at the massive antennas. Admission is free, and visitors are welcomed daily from 8:30am to sunset. Free guided tours are offered every half hour from 11am to 4pm.

Where to Stay in the Socorro Area

Most accommodations are along California Street, the main highway through town, or the adjacent I-25 frontage road. Most lodgings provide free parking.

Casa Blanca ★ The ideal situation in this part of the world is to be just a few minutes away from the Bosque del Apache. That way, you only have to get out of bed a half-hour or so before sunup in order to get to the wildlife refuge and see the morning flight (see “Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge,” below). Casa Blanca is the place to stay for this reason. It’s a cozy Victorian farmhouse and home to proprietor Phoebe Wood, a former schoolteacher. The place has a genuine homelike quality—comfortable and well maintained. The best room is the Heron with a queen-size bed and private bathroom with a whirlpool tub. An early morning snack and coffee are offered for those leaving early to the Bosque, and upon your return, a full breakfast is available. Fruit, cereals, eggs, and home-baked muffins are served in a homey kitchen. Smoking is not permitted.

13 Montoya St. (P.O. Box 31), San Antonio, NM 87832. 575/835-3027. www.casablancabedandbreakfast.com. 3 units. $80–$100 double. Rates include generous breakfast. MC, V. Closed June–Sept. Children and pets welcome.

Holiday Inn Express ★ Opened in 2007, this hotel right within town with good access to I-25 offers the region’s best lodgings. Rooms come in kings, two queens, and suites. All are medium size, with a lounge chair and/or desk and/or two chairs and a table. The rooms, decorated in earth tones, have comfortable beds and nice linens. The suites have fold-out couches, a good option for those traveling with children. Bathrooms are medium-size, with granite countertops. Service here is courteous and efficient. A hot breakfast is served in the sunny breakfast room or on the patio.

1040 California St. NE, Socorro, NM 87801. 800/465-4329 or 575/838-4600. Fax 575/838-4700. www.hiexpress.com/socorronm. 77 units. $105 double; $135 suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; indoor Jacuzzi; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi.

Camping

Casey’s Socorro RV Park ( 800/674-2234 or 575/835-2234) offers mountain and valley views and plenty of shade, as well as 100 sites and 30 full hookups. Tent sites are available, as are picnic tables, grills, and ice. A playground and swimming pool are open year-round. To reach Casey’s, take I-25 to exit 147, go 1 block west on Business I-25 and then 1 block south on West Frontage Road.

Where to Dine in the Socorro Area

El Sombrero ★ NEW MEXICAN This is a real locals’ place. My Socorran friends call it “the Hat” and always request the garden room, where tables surround a fountain. This is some of the best New Mexican food around. I especially enjoy the chicken enchiladas, with tortillas made in-house. They come rolled, with beans, rice, and a sopaipilla. Most popular on the menu are the fajitas, beef or chicken, served with rice, beans, tortillas, and guacamole. The restaurant is known for its trademark sauces, especially the poblano chile and mole sauces, which are served over enchiladas or meats such as chicken. For dessert, try the churro, a cinnamon sugared stick, with vanilla ice cream. Beer and wine are available.

210 Mesquite NE, Socorro. 575/835-3945. www.frankandlupes.com. Main courses $6–$12. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Manny’s Buckhorn Tavern ★★ AMERICAN For years, the cafe across the street from this place in San Antonio (10 miles south of town), the Owl Bar, held the state’s title for the best green chile cheeseburger. More recently this spry contender has come to dominate the ring. With the title has come a slew of press, including GQ magazine naming its burgers on their national top-20 burger list. Travel + Leisure and the New York Times have also written about this charming place that’s full of local color. It has hardwood floors, beer neons, and memorabilia on the walls—a crucifix, antelope antlers—set above cozy booths. Order their specialty, a Buckhorn Burger, made with hand-patted 80% lean beef topped with green chile and cheese. On the side, choose fries or onion rings, both good and crispy. If you’re not a burger fan, try the tacos or tamales. Wash your meal down with a beer or margarita from the full bar.

Building 68, NM 380, San Antonio (10 miles south of Socorro). 575/835-4423. www.buckhornburgers.com. All menu items under $8. MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–8pm; Sat 11am–3pm.

Socorro Springs Brewing Company ★★ AMERICAN/PIZZA This little pocket of sophistication is a nice addition to small-town Socorro. On most any day, the place is full of happy diners sampling the brew and eating tasty wood-oven and grilled cuisine. It’s a casual place with a refined brewpub atmosphere, with wooden tables and colorful walls. The service is congenial though not quick. You may choose from salads and sandwiches, calzones and pizzas, and more upscale dishes. A good pizza choice is the Bandido, with pepperoni, Italian sausage, prosciutto, and jalapeños, or the El Cerdo with red-chile marinated pork, capicola ham, cheddar-jack cheese, olives, and cilantro. Most recently, I enjoyed the baked penne carbonara—penne pasta with a cheddar/bacon sauce baked in the wood-fired oven. The beer is nice, with a bit of a smoky taste.

1012 W. California St., Socorro. 575/838-0650. www.socorrosprings.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $8–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 10:30am–10pm.

Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

By Ian Wilker

The barren lands to either side of I-25 south of Albuquerque seem hardly fit for rattlesnakes, much less one of the Southwest’s greatest concentrations of wildlife. The plants that do find purchase in the parched washes and small canyons along the road—forbiddingly named hardies such as creosote bush, tarbush, and white thorn—serve notice that you are indeed within the northernmost finger of the great Chihuahuan Desert, which covers southern New Mexico and southwestern Texas, and runs deep into Mexico.

However, to the east of the interstate is the green-margined Rio Grande. In the midst of such a blasted landscape, the river stands out as an inviting beacon to wildlife, and nowhere does it shine more brightly than at Bosque del Apache’s 7,000 acres of carefully managed riparian habitat, which includes marshlands, meadows, agricultural fields, arrow-weed thickets on the riverbanks, and big old-growth cottonwoods lining what were once the oxbows of the river. The refuge supports a riot of wildlife, including all the characteristic mammals and reptiles of the Southwest (mule deer, jackrabbits, and coyotes are common) and about 377 species of birds.

A visit here during the peak winter season—from November to March—is one of the most consistently thrilling wildlife spectacles you can see anywhere in the lower 48 states, especially if you’re an avid bird-watcher. Bosque del Apache is, you might say, the LAX of the Central Flyway, one of four paths that migratory birds follow every year between their summer breeding grounds in the tundral north and wintering grounds in the southern United States, Mexico, even as far away as South America—and many of these birds either stop over here to recharge their batteries or settle down for the winter.

It’s not enough to say that hundreds of species of birds are on hand. The wonder is in the sheer numbers of them. In early December the refuge may harbor as many as 45,000 snow geese, 57,000 ducks of many different species, and 18,000 sandhill cranes—huge, ungainly birds that nonetheless have a special majesty in flight, pinkish in the sun at dawn or dusk. Plenty of raptors are also about—numerous red-tailed hawks and northern harriers (sometimes called marsh hawks), Cooper’s hawks and kestrels, and even bald and golden eagles—as well as Bosque del Apache’s many year-round avian residents: pheasants and quail, wild turkeys, and much mythologized roadrunners (El Paisano, in Mexican folklore). Everyone will be mesmerized by the huge societies of sandhills, ducks, and geese, going about their daily business of feeding, gabbling, quarreling, honking, and otherwise making an immense racket.

The refuge has a 12-mile auto tour loop, which you should drive very slowly; the south half of the loop travels past numerous water impoundments, where the majority of the ducks and geese hang out, and the north half has the meadows and farmland, where you’ll see the roadrunners and other land birds, and where the cranes and geese feed from midmorning through the afternoon.

A few special experiences bear further explanation. Dawn is definitely the best time to be here—songbirds are far more active in the first hours of the day, and the cranes and geese take flight en masse. This last is not to be missed. Dusk, when the birds return to the water, is also a good time. At either dawn or dusk, find your way to one of the observation decks and wait for what birders call the “fly out” (off the water to the fields) or “fly in” (from the fields to the water).

Don’t despair if you can’t be at the Bosque del Apache during the prime winter months, for it’s a special place any time of year. By April, the geese and ducks have flown north, and the refuge drains the water impoundments to allow the marsh plants to regenerate; the resulting mud flats are an ideal feeding ground for the migrating shorebirds that arrive in April and May.

If you’d like to stretch your legs a bit, check out the Chupadera Peak Trail, which follows a 2.5-mile loop or a 10-mile loop to a high point overlooking the refuge. Ask for directions at the visitor center.

Just the Facts The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge is about a 1 1/2-hour drive from Albuquerque. Follow I-25 for 9 miles south of Socorro, and then take the San Antonio exit. At the main intersection of San Antonio, turn south onto NM 1. In 3 miles, you’ll be on refuge lands, and another 4 miles will bring you to the excellent visitor center, which has a small museum with interpretive displays and a large shelf of field guides, natural histories, and other books of interest for visitors to New Mexico. The visitor center is open from 7:30am to 4pm weekdays, and from 8am to 4:30pm weekends. The refuge itself is open year-round daily from 1 hour before sunrise to 1 hour after sunset. Admission is $3 per vehicle. For more information, contact Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, P.O. Box 1246, Socorro, NM 87801 ( 575/835-1828; www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/newmex/bosque).

Truth or Consequences

Originally known as Hot Springs, after the therapeutic mineral springs bubbling up near the river, the town took the name Truth or Consequences—usually shortened to “T or C”—in 1950. That was the year that Ralph Edwards, producer of the popular radio and television program Truth or Consequences, began his weekly broadcast with these words: “I wish that some town in the United States liked and respected our show so much that it would like to change its name to Truth or Consequences.” The reward to any city willing to do so was to become the site of the 10th-anniversary broadcast of the program, which would put it on the national map in a big way. The locals voted for the name change, which has survived three protest elections over the years.

Although the TV program was canceled decades ago, Ralph Edwards continued to return for the annual Truth or Consequences Fiesta, the first weekend of May. He died in 2005. Another popular annual festival is Geronimo Days, the second weekend of October. Despite its festive roots, T or C seems to have an identity crisis—perhaps a consequence of giving up its name for the fame and fortune of television. The city displays a forlorn quality, possibly due to the struggling economy. However, in recent years, a few of the bathhouses have undergone renovation, and a number of galleries and restaurants have opened up, bringing new life to the town.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-25 south (2 1/2 hr.). From Las Cruces, take I-25 north (1 1/4 hr.). Though no commercial flight service exists, those who fly themselves may contact the Truth or Consequences Municipal Airport, Old North Hwy. 85 ( 575/894-6199).

Visitor Information A visitor information center is at 211 Main St. next to the Geronimo Springs Museum ( 575/894-6600) in downtown Truth or Consequences. Also there is the Truth or Consequences & Sierra County Chamber of Commerce, 207 S. Foch St., Truth or Consequences, NM 87901 ( 575/894-3536; www.truthorconsequenceschamberofcommerce.com).

City Layout This year-round resort town and retirement community is spread along the Rio Grande between the Elephant Butte and Caballo reservoirs, two of the three largest bodies of water in the state. Business Loop 25 branches off from I-25 to wind through the city, splitting into Main Street (one-way west) and South Broadway (one-way east) in the downtown area. Third Avenue connects T or C with the Elephant Butte resort community, 5 miles east.

Next Stop—Space

Fasten your seat belt and settle back for an orbit or two of Earth—that’s what space-minded folks, such as New Mexico Governor Bill Richardson and British tycoon Richard Branson, foresee as a reality soon. Space tourists would take off from the proposed $225-million Spaceport America near Truth or Consequences. In its embryonic stages now, the spaceport will include one or more runways, hangars, a control building, and launch pads. The first test flights took place in 2007, while the completion date for the spaceport is 2011.

When it’s complete, Branson plans to headquarter Virgin Galactic here. Currently Virgin is selling tickets for $200,000 apiece for a 2 1/2-hour flight, including 5 minutes of weightlessness. The first of these flights will likely fly out of the Mojave Airport in California, where SpaceShipOne became the first privately manned rocket to reach space in 2004. For updates, log onto www.virgingalactic.com or www.edd.state.nm.us.

Taking the Waters at the Historic Hot Springs

The town’s “original” attraction is its hot springs. The entire downtown area is located over a table of odorless hot mineral water, 98° to 115°F (37°–46°C), that bubbles to the surface through wells or pools. The first bathhouse was built in the 1880s; most of the half-dozen historic spas operating today date from the 1930s. Generally open from morning to early evening, these spas welcome visitors for soaks and massages. Baths of 20 minutes or longer start at $7 per person.

The chamber of commerce has information on all the local spas (see “Essentials,” above). Among them is Sierra Grande Lodge & Spa ★★, 501 McAdoo St. ( 575/894-6976; www.sierragrandelodge.com), where Geronimo himself is rumored to have taken a break. (See “Where to Stay in & Around Truth or Consequences,” below.) As well as luxurious soaking tubs, this inn offers a full line of spa treatments, including some innovative massages.

I highly recommend the Hay-Yo-Kay Hot Springs ★, 300 Austin St. ( 575/894-2228; www.hay-yo-kay.com). It has natural-flow pools (versus tubs filled with spring water). The tub rooms are private and gracefully tiled. Hay-Yo-Kay is open Wednesday through Sunday 11am to 7pm. Massages and reflexology are also available. Newly renovated, the Riverbend Springs Resort & Spa ★ 100 Austin St. ( 575/894-7625; www.riverbendhotsprings.com) offers clean tubs that overlook the Rio Grande River. The pools are open daily from 8am to 10pm.

A Museum in T or C

Geronimo Springs Museum Outside this museum is Geronimo’s Spring, where the great Apache shaman is said to have taken his warriors to bathe their battle wounds. Turtleback Mountain, looming over the Rio Grande east of the city, is believed to have been sacred to Native Americans.

Exhibits include prehistoric Mogollon and Mimbres pottery (a.d. 950–1250); the Spanish Heritage Room, with artifacts of the first families of Sierra County; and artists’ work, including historical murals and sculptured bronzes. An authentic miner’s cabin has been moved here from the nearby mountains. The Ralph Edwards Wing contains the history and highlights of the annual fiestas and celebrates the city’s name change, including television footage from the shows filmed in T or C.

211 Main St. 575/894-6600. Admission $5 adults, $2.50 students; family rates available. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm.

Getting Outside

Elephant Butte Lake State Park encompasses New Mexico’s largest body of water, with 36,500 lake surface acres. It’s one of the most popular state parks in New Mexico, attracting watersports enthusiasts and fishers from throughout the south and central regions of the state. Fishing for white bass, black bass, catfish, walleye, crappie, and stripers goes on year-round. Trout are stocked in the Rio Grande below Elephant Butte Dam. The park has sandy beaches for tanning and swimming (though don’t expect the white sands of the Cayman Islands here). You can also find boating, sailing, water-skiing, windsurfing, jet-skiing, scuba diving, nature trails, and camping. Beware of going to the lake on summer weekends—Fourth of July and Labor Day weekend in particular—when the crowds are overwhelming. However, in the other seasons and during the week in summer, it’s a quiet place.

Bird-watchers also enjoy the park, spotting hundreds of species, including bald eagles, great blue herons, and more than 20 species of duck during migrations in spring and fall. The lake was named for a huge rock formation that makes an island; before the inundation that created the lake, it clearly looked like an elephant. Today, it’s partially submerged.

The park is about 5 miles north of Truth or Consequences via I-25. For more information, contact 575/744-5923; www.nmparks.com.

About 18 miles south of Truth or Consequences via I-25 is another recreation area, Caballo Lake State Park ( 575/743-3942; www.nmparks.com), which, like Elephant Butte, has year-round watersports, fishing, swimming, and campsites. The lofty ridge of the Caballo Mountains just to the east of the lake makes a handsome backdrop. Park facilities include a full-service marina with a shop for boaters and full hookups for recreational vehicles.

Reached from the same exit off I-25 is yet another recreation area, Percha Dam State Park ( 575/743-3942; www.nmparks.com), a lovely shaded spot under great cottonwood trees, part of the ancient bosque, or woods, the Spanish found bordering the Rio Grande when they first arrived in this area in the 1530s. The dam here diverts river water for irrigation. The park offers campsites, restrooms and showers, hiking trails, and access to fishing.

Exploring the Ghost Towns in the Area

North of Truth or Consequences About 40 miles from Truth or Consequences are the precarious remains of Winston and Chloride, two so-called ghost towns—abandoned mining centers that nevertheless do have a few residents. Exploring these towns makes for a nice side trip off I-25. You may want to include a visit to the Very Large Array and the old mining town of Magdalena in the trip (see “Socorro & the VLA,” earlier in this chapter). However, be aware that if you do, much of the journey from Winston to the VLA is on graded dirt road.

Winston, 37 miles northwest of Truth or Consequences on NM 52, was abandoned in the early 1900s when silver prices dropped and local mining became unprofitable. Some of the original structures from that era are still standing. A similar fate befell Chloride, 5 miles west of Winston on a side road off NM 52, where famed silver mines had such names as Nana, Wall Street, and Unknown. Chloride also figured in many battles in the turn-of-the-20th-century war between cattle-ranching and sheep-ranching interests. In the very center of town is the “hanging tree,” where the town used to tie drunks to “dry” in the sun.

South of Truth or Consequences Thirty-two miles from Truth or Consequences, via I-25 south to NM 152, then west, is Hillsboro ★, another ghost town that’s fast losing its ghosts to a small invasion of artists and craftspeople, antiques shops, and galleries. This town boomed after an 1877 gold strike nearby, and during its heyday it produced $6 million in silver and gold. It was the county seat from 1884 to 1938. You may want to plan your drive to include breakfast or lunch at Hillsboro General Store & Country Café ★, on NM 152 in the center of town ( 575/895-5306). Serving excellent burgers and burritos in a historic general store ambience, this spot also has some of the best pie in the region; it’s called bumbleberry and combines many berries in a flaky crust. Open Sunday to Wednesday and Friday from 8am to 6:30pm.

The Black Range Historical Museum ( 575/895-5233 or 575/895-5685) contains exhibits and artifacts from Hillsboro’s mining boom. In the former Ocean Grove Hotel, a turn-of-the-20th-century brothel operated by Sadie Orchard, the museum collection includes some of the madam’s effects. This volunteer-staffed museum is supposed to be open daily 10am to 4pm, but it isn’t always. It’s closed most major holidays. Suggested donation is $2 for adults, $1 for children, and $5 for a family.

The Enchanted Villa bed-and-breakfast inn, a quarter mile west of Hillsboro on NM 152 (no street address), P.O. Box 456, Hillsboro, NM 88042 ( 575/895-5686), is a 1941 adobe structure that offers decent accommodations. The rates, $84 for a double and $55 for a single, include full hot breakfasts.

Nine miles west of Hillsboro on NM 152, just after you’ve entered the Gila National Forest, is Kingston, born with a rich silver strike in 1880 and reputed to have been among the wildest mining towns in the region, with 7,000 people, 22 saloons, a notorious red-light district (conveniently located on Virtue Ave.), and an opera house. Kingston was also once the home of Albert Fall, a U.S. secretary of state who gained notoriety for his role in the Teapot Dome Scandal.

Your headquarters in Kingston should be the Black Range Lodge Bed & Breakfast, 119 Main St., Kingston, NM 88042 ( 575/895-5652; www.blackrangelodge.com), a rustic stone lodge that dates from the 1880s, and over the years has housed miners and soldiers. The lodge has seven rooms—all with private bathrooms and some with private balconies—a large game room with a pool table and video games, and family suites, as well as a guesthouse. Rates are $95 for a double, with multiple-night discounts; the guesthouse is $149 per night, which includes a full breakfast. Well-behaved pets are welcome for a $5 per day fee.

Among historic buildings in Kingston are the brick assay office, the Victorio Hotel, and the Percha Bank, now a museum open by appointment—ask at Black Range Lodge. Also ask for a Kingston Walking Tour map. The town bell in front of the Volunteer Fire Department was once used to warn residents of Native American attacks.

Where to Stay in & Around Truth or Consequences

Blackstone Hot Springs ★★ Set in a 1930s motor court, this resort offers a fun and funky theme-room stay. The real draw here is the mineral baths in the rooms, which allow guests to bathe all they want. As befits this town named for a television show, the rooms are as well, with such themes as the Twilight Zone, Golden Girls, and my favorite, The Jetsons, with a space-age couch and posters of the TV show on the walls. All rooms are set around a quiet courtyard and offer fine bedding and kitchenettes. The real star of this show is the Wet Room, reserved on the hour ($25), which has a large soaking tub and a geothermal steam room with a waterfall. Whether you’re a guest or not, you should try this out because breathing in the notable T or C minerals can induce an otherworldly experience.

410 Austin St. Truth or Consequences, NM 87901. 575/894-0894. www.blackstonehotsprings.com. 7 units. $75–$125 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Soaking tub; steam room. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, mineral bath, Wi-Fi.

Elephant Butte Inn ★ For a comfortable stay and a unique experience, try this hotel above Elephant Butte Lake that offers panoramic views as well as a relaxing resortlike feel. It caters to boaters, fishers, and other relaxation lovers. Rooms are standard size, furnished with king- or queen-size beds. Bathrooms are small but functional, with an outer sink vanity. I recommend the lakeside view, where a big grassy lawn stretches down to tennis courts. These rooms are a bit more upscale, with unique decor in each, and equipped with plasma TVs, fridges, and microwaves. For golfers, packages are available that include greens fees at the Sierra del Rio Golf Course at Turtleback Mountain Resort. The Ivory Spa here offers a full range of treatments, including reasonably priced spa packages. A courtesy computer with Internet is available in the lobby.

401 NM 195 (P.O. Box 996), Elephant Butte, NM 87935. 575/744-5431. Fax 575/744-5044. www.elephantbutteinn.com. 45 units. $80–$129 double. Golf and spa packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome ($15–$20 per visit). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge w/outdoor patio; outdoor pool; room service; spa; tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, fridge/microwave (some rooms), hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Sierra Grande Lodge & Spa ★★ Prepare yourself for a sensual oasis at this historic resort. The biggest draw is the springs. Here you stay in luxury while partaking of warm, healing waters rich in minerals. The medium-size rooms in this renovated 1920s lodge, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, have handcrafted furnishings, hardwood floors, high ceilings, and many have balconies. All have comfortable beds with good linens. Bathrooms are small but functional. Some come with in-room Jacuzzis. Best of all here are a variety of spa treatments including massages, wraps, facials, and most notably Ashiatsu, in which the masseuse massages with her feet.

501 McAdoo St., Truth or Consequences, NM 87901. 575/894-6976. www.sierragrandelodge.com. 18 units. $99–$169 double; $249–$279 suite. Rates includes gourmet continental breakfast and 30-min. mineral bath for each day of stay. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Concierge; spa. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player upon request, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Camping

Elephant Butte Lake State Park ( 575/744-5923; www.nmparks.com) welcomes backpackers and RVs alike, with 200 developed campsites, 150 RV hookups, picnic tables, and access points for swimming, hiking, boating, and fishing. Kids love the playground.

Not far from Elephant Butte Lake is Monticello Point RV Park ( 575/894-6468), which offers tent sites and 69 sites with full hookups. Laundry and grocery facilities are also on the premises, as are restrooms with showers. To reach Monticello Point, take I-25 to exit 89, and proceed 5 1/2 miles east on the paved road—follow the signs.

Lakeside RV Park and Lodging ( 575/744-5996), also near Elephant Butte, has 70 sites, two overflow sites (all 64 are full hookups), as well as a recreation room with cable and laundry facilities. The RV park is 4 miles southeast of the I-25 and NM 195 junction (exit 83) on NM 195. To reach the RV park when you’re headed north on I-25, take exit 79, go half a mile east on the paved road, 1 1/2 miles north on NM 181, then 1 1/2 miles east on NM 171, and finally a quarter mile south on NM 195.

Camping is also available at Caballo Lake State Park and Percha Dam State Park. For information on either park, call 575/743-3942 or visit www.nmparks.com.

Where to Dine in & Around Truth or Consequences

Café Bella Luca ★★ TUSCAN/ITALIAN Set in a historic building, renovated to have a clean, contemporary look, with high ceilings, stained concrete floors, and warm earth tones, this restaurant serves some of the best food in the region. Chef Byron Harrel makes all the sauces and breads here, and the seafood is flown in fresh. Lunch or dinner might start with crispy fried calamari or a crab cake. At lunch, one of the many sandwiches is a good bet. I’ve enjoyed the turkey pancetta on focaccia with house-made fries or a salad. The menu also offers pizzas and calzones. The pasta Alfredo with grilled shrimp is also nice. At dinner, the seafood puttanesca has a nice bite, and the ravioli, which varies with the season, is always excellent. An extensive wine and beer list with organic options accompanies the menu, as do a variety of house-made desserts. This is a Wi-Fi hotspot.

303 Jones St. 575/894-9866. www.cafebellaluca.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $7–$12 lunch, $10–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 11am–4pm; Wed–Thurs and Sun–Mon 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

Wandering in T or C

Truth or Consequences has become a bit of an art hot spot recently, with many artists moving here to enjoy the temperate climate and low cost of living. As a result, many galleries have opened up. Unfortunately, they seem to close just as quickly. So rather than give you a list that will surely change by press time, I recommend you check out www.torcart.com, the website for the Downtown Gallery District Association. The site provides a map of its members’ locations and dates for their monthly art hop, when they hold receptions into the evening.

While you’re out wandering, if you need a little energy, head to Little Sprout ★, 400 N. Broadway ( 575/894-4114) to get a health fix. This cafe serves coffee, a broad range of freshly squeezed juices and smoothies, as well as sandwiches and baked goods. A favorite is the roast chicken panini, with mozzarella, roasted red peppers, basil leaves; and pesto on a ciabatta bun. The cafe is open Monday to Saturday 8am to 6pm, and Sunday 8am to 4:30pm.

Happy Belly Deli ★ AMERICAN This prime spot for breakfast and lunch offers homestyle cooking in a friendly, cozy cafe decked with original art. A bonhomie atmosphere pervades, with diners talking table-to-table. A full range of egg and pancake dishes fill the breakfast roster. At lunch, try one of the chef’s inspired soup creations, such as the Thai chicken rice, which change daily. The green-chile Philly is a popular sandwich here, and independent eaters can build their own.

313 Broadway. 575/894-3354. All menu items under $8. MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 8am–3pm; Sun 8am–noon.

Los Arcos Steak & Lobster ★ AMERICAN A favorite of my late father’s, this spacious hacienda-style restaurant fronted by a lovely desert garden is intimate and friendly in atmosphere, as if you’re at an old friend’s home. Its steaks are regionally famous; my choice is always the filet mignon, served with salad and your choice of potato or rice. The fish dishes are also good, with offerings that include king crab and lobster. The restaurant also has a fine dessert list and cordial selection. During warmer months, diners enjoy the outdoor patio. The bar here hops at happy hour.

1400 Date St. 575/894-6200. Main courses $11–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm.

Pacific Grill ★ SEAFOOD With salmon-colored walls and palm tree art, this restaurant serves decent fish prepared inventively. It’s a good family spot or a fun place for a night out with friends. Service is friendly but it can be overworked. Though the fish is brought to the restaurant frozen, the preparations make it seem fresh. I’ve enjoyed the lemon-pepper salmon and the island-style sweet-and-sour chicken.

304 S. Pershing St. (behind the State National Bank). 575/894-7687. Main courses $6–$21. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–2pm and 5–8pm.

Las Cruces

Las Cruces

Picture a valley full of weathered wooden crosses marking graves of settlers brutally murdered by Apaches, behind them mountains with peaks so jagged they resemble organ pipes. Such was the scene that caused people to begin calling this city Las Cruces, meaning “the crosses.” Even today, the place has a mysterious presence, its rich history haunting it still. Reminders of characters such as Billy the Kid, who was sentenced to death in this area, and Pancho Villa, who spent time here, are present throughout the region.

Established in 1849 on El Camino Real, the “royal highway” between Santa Fe and Mexico City, Las Cruces became a supply center for miners prospecting the Organ Mountains and soldiers stationed at nearby Fort Selden. Today, it’s New Mexico’s second-largest urban area, with 95,000 people. It’s noted as an agricultural center, especially for its cotton, pecans, and chiles; as a regional transportation hub; and as the gateway to the White Sands Missile Range and other defense installations.

Las Cruces manages to survive within a desert landscape that gets only 8 inches of moisture a year, pulling enough moisture from the Rio Grande, which runs through, to irrigate a broad swath of valley.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-25 south (4 hr.). From El Paso, take I-10 north (3⁄4 hr.). From Tucson, take I-25 east (5 hr.).

Las Cruces International Airport ( 575/541-2471; www.las-cruces.org/facilities/airport), 8 miles west of the city, offers no commercial flights at this time. El Paso International Airport (ELP; 915/780-4749; www.elpasointernationalairport.com), 47 miles south, has daily flights to and from Albuquerque, Phoenix, Dallas, and Houston, among other cities. The Las Cruces Shuttle Service, P.O. Box 3172, Las Cruces, NM 88003 ( 800/288-1784 or 575/525-1784; www.lascrucesshuttle.com), provides service between the El Paso airport and Las Cruces. It leaves Las Cruces 12 times daily between 5am and 9:30pm for a charge of $40 one-way or $70 round-trip per person, with large discounts for additional passengers traveling together. A $10 charge is added for pickup or drop-off at places other than its regular stops at major hotels. Connections can also be made three times a day from Las Cruces to Deming and Silver City.

Visitor Information The Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau is at 211 N. Water St., Las Cruces, NM 88001 ( 877/266-8252 or 575/541-2444; www.lascrucescvb.org). The Greater Las Cruces Chamber of Commerce, 760 W. Picacho Ave., can be reached at 575/524-1968 or www.lascruces.org.

What to See & Do in Las Cruces

On a hot day, when the church bells are ringing and you’re wandering the brick streets of Mesilla ★★, you may for a moment feel you have slipped back into the late 16th century. This village on Las Cruces’s southwestern flank was established in the late 1500s by Mexican colonists. It became the crossroads of El Camino Real and the Butterfield Overland Mail route. The Gadsden Purchase, which annexed Mesilla to the United States and fixed the current international boundaries of New Mexico and Arizona, was signed here in 1854.

Mesilla’s most notorious resident, William Bonney, otherwise known as Billy the Kid, was sentenced to death at the county courthouse here. He was sent back to Lincoln, New Mexico, to be hanged, but escaped before the sentence was carried out. Legendary hero Pat Garrett eventually tracked down and killed the Kid at Fort Sumner; later, Garrett was mysteriously murdered in an arroyo just outside Las Cruces. He is buried in the local Masonic cemetery.

Thick-walled adobe buildings, which once protected residents against Apache attacks, now house art galleries, restaurants, museums, and gift shops. Throughout Mesilla, colorful red chile ristras decorate homes and businesses. On Fridays 11am to 4pm and Sundays noon to 4pm year-round locals sell crafts and seasonal produce.

danse Macabre

The Dance of the Matachines, a ritualistic dance performed at northern New Mexico pueblos and in many Hispanic communities, reveals the cultural miscegenation, identities, and conflicts that characterize northern New Mexico. It’s a dark and vivid ritual in which a little girl, Malinche, is wedded to the church. The dance, depicting the taming of the native spirit, is difficult even for historians to decipher.

Brought to the New World by the Spaniards, the dance has its roots in the painful period during which the Moors were driven out of Spain. However, some symbols seem obvious: At one point, men bearing whips tame “El Toro,” a small boy dressed as a bull who has been charging about rebelliously. The whip-men symbolically castrate him and then stroll through the crowd, pretending to display the dismembered body parts, as if to warn villagers of the consequences of disobedience. At another point, a hunched woman-figure births a small troll-like doll, perhaps representative of the union between Indian and Hispanic cultures.

The Dance of the Matachines ends when two abuelo (grandparent) figures dance across the dirt, holding up the just-born baby, while the Matachines, adorned with bishoplike headdresses, follow them away in a recessional march. The Matachines’ dance, often performed in the early mornings, is so dark and mystical that every time I see it, my passion for this area deepens. The image of that baby always stays with me, and in a way represents New Mexico itself: a place born of disparate beliefs that have melded with the sand, sage, and sun, and produced incredible richness.

Touring Mesilla

For a fun and easy jaunt that will familiarize you with the history and architecture of this interesting village, purchase the booklet A Walking Tour of Mesilla, NM, sold at shops around the plaza and at the J. Paul Taylor Visitor Center in the Mesilla Town Hall, 2231 Avenida de Mesilla ( 575/524-3262, ext. 117), where you’ll find period photos and plenty of brochures on the area, as well as clean public restrooms. A good source for Mesilla events is www.oldmesilla.org.

Some places of note include the San Albino Church (see “Other Attractions,” below), from which you can get a view of the plaza and even peek down the side streets, where some of the old adobe houses have been restored and painted bold pinks and greens. On the southwest corner of the plaza is the oldest documented brick building in New Mexico, built by Augustin Maurin in 1860. It has a sad history of its proprietors being murdered by robbers.

If you’d like a treat, head to Stahmann’s on the Plaza, 2030 Calle de Parian ( 575/527-0667; www.stahmanns.com). A retail outlet for the notable Stahmann Farms, Stahmann’s sells cookies, pecan candy, and just plain, but delicious, pecans. Find other nutty treats at Heart of the Desert Pistachios & Wines, 2355 Calle de Guadalupe ( 575/647-2115). I especially enjoy their pistachio white chocolate chunk ice cream. Chocolate lovers will find chocolate-dipped frozen strawberries and homemade ice cream at the Chocolate Lady, 2379 Calle de Guadalupe ( 575/526-2744).

If you prefer a guided historic walking tour, contact Preciliana Sandoval, 2488 Calle Principal, P.O. Box 981, Mesilla, NM 88046 (behind El Patio Bar; 575/647-2639). This bold artist/historian, a fifth-generation Mesilla Valley native, will regale you with stories of ghosts and historic battles in the area. Tours cost $10 per person and take about an hour, and group discounts are available.

Places of Note in Historic Las Cruces

Though it has a much less romantic atmosphere than Mesilla, downtown Las Cruces has a few historical buildings, which make visiting it worthwhile. If you’d like to do a walking tour of the area, pick up a map at the Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau at 211 N. Water St.

Central to the area is Downtown Mall ( 575/541-2155), an open-air arcade that hosts the Las Cruces Farmers’ & Crafts Market ★, which specializes in locally handcrafted items and seasonal local produce, on Wednesday and Saturday from 8am to noon. Established in 1888, New Mexico State University, University Avenue and Locust Street ( 575/646-0111; www.nmsu.edu), has an enrollment of 24,000 students and is especially noted for its schools of engineering and agriculture. It has a museum and two galleries.

Other Attractions

Branigan Cultural Center If you’d like to learn about Las Cruces history, this museum will inform you of the region’s prehistory to its settlement as a city, with an excellent array of period photos, and military, ranching, railroad, and rocket memorabilia. Another gallery houses changing shows of local and regional art and traveling exhibitions. The center also presents performing arts, educational programs, and special events. It’s set in an elegant historic 1935 Branigan Library and still has its original desk, skylight, and mural.

500 N. Water St. 575/541-2155. http://museums.las-cruces.org. Free admission. Tues–Sat 9am–4:30pm.

Las Cruces Museum of Art This museum houses galleries, art studios, and classrooms, with frequently changing exhibitions of contemporary art in a variety of media. It offers art classes year-round. Two recent exhibitions included traveling shows by Salvador Dalí and Auguste Rodin.

490 N. Water St. 575/541-2137. http://museums.las-cruces.org. Free admission. Tues–Sat 9am–4:30pm.

Las Cruces Museum of Natural History This small city-funded museum offers a variety of exhibits that emphasize science and natural history. The museum features live animals of the Chihuahuan Desert and hands-on science activities. The Paleozoic Trackway offers a peek at some of the oldest fossil footprints in the world—280 million years. Exhibits, such as “Insects and Bugs” and “Every Body Eats,” change every few months.

Mesilla Valley Mall, 700 S. Telshor Blvd. 575/522-3120. http://museums.las-cruces.org. Free admission. Mon–Thurs and Sat 10am–5pm; Fri 10am–8pm; Sun 1–5pm.

Las Cruces Railroad Museum Located in the historic Santa Fe Depot, which is on the National Registry of Historic Buildings, this museum offers exhibits of Las Cruces railroad history from the train’s arrival in 1881 to the present. Exhibits include period photos, antique equipment and tools, and model trains. Driving through residential neighborhoods en route to the museum you’ll get a feel for the many styles of architecture that the train’s arrival sparked, including Queen Anne, Mission Revival, and Gothic Revival. My favorite part of the display is a photo of Theodore Roosevelt on a train during his 1912 visit to Las Cruces.

Corner of Mesilla St. and Las Cruces Ave. 575/647-4480. http://museums.las-cruces.org. Free admission. Thurs–Sat 9am–4:30pm.

New Mexico Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum ★★ This 47-acre interactive museum brings to life the 3,000-year history of farming, ranching, and rural living in New Mexico. It’s housed within a huge structure that’s designed to look like a hacienda-style barn, with a U-shaped courtyard in back and exhibits surrounding it on expansive grounds. Visitors can watch a cow being milked, stroll along corrals filled with livestock, enjoy several gardens, and drop by the blacksmith shop. Tape recordings enliven the ranching exhibit, with messages by the region’s first settlers and enduring ranchers, along with the tools and machinery of their trade. Annual events at the museum are the Blessing of the Fields in May and Cowboy Days the second weekend in March.

4100 Dripping Springs Rd. (follow University Ave. east beyond the edge of town). 575/522-4100. www.nmfarmandranchmuseum.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors 60 and over, $2 children 5–17; free for children 4 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm.

San Albino Church ★★ The present structure was built in 1906 on the foundation of the original church, constructed in 1851. It was named for St. Albin, a medieval English bishop of North Africa, on whose day an important irrigation ditch from the Rio Grande was completed. The church bells date from the early 1870s; the pews were made in Taos of Philippine mahogany.

North side of Old Mesilla Plaza. 575/526-9349. www.sanalbino.org. Free admission; donations appreciated. Usually Mon–Sat 1–3pm (call ahead). English-language Mass Sat 5:30pm and Sun 11am; Spanish Mass Sun 8am, weekdays 7am.

Spectator Sports

New Mexico State University football, basketball, baseball, softball, and volleyball teams play intercollegiate schedules in the Big West Conference, against schools from California, Nevada, and Utah. The Aggies play their home games on the NMSU campus, south of University Avenue on Locust Street. Football is played in the Aggie Memorial Stadium, and basketball games are held in the Pan American Center arena. For information about the games, call the Pan Am Ticket Office ( 575/646-1420; www.nmstatesports.com).

New Mexico’s longest horse-racing season takes place 45 miles south of Las Cruces at Sunland Park Racetrack and Casino ( 575/874-5200; www.sunland-park.com). Live races run Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Tuesday, from December to April. The casino, which features 700 slot machines, is open Sunday through Thursday from 9:30am to 1am, Friday and Saturday until 2am.

Shopping

Shoppers should be aware that in Las Cruces, Monday is a notoriously quiet day. Some stores close for the day, so it’s best to call ahead before traveling to a specific store.

For art, visit Lundeen’s Inn of the Arts ★, 618 S. Alameda Blvd. ( 575/526-3326; www.innofthearts.com), displaying the works of about 30 Southwest painters, sculptors, and potters; Rising Sky Artworks, 415 E. Foster ( 877/525-8454; www.risingskypottery.com), which features works in clay by local and Western artists; Mesilla Valley Fine Arts, 2770A Calle de Guadalupe ( 575/522-2933; www.mesillavalleyfinearts.com), which offers works by 30 Southwestern artists—a great place to pick up a New Mexico landscape painting; and Preston Contemporary Art Center ★★, 1755 Avenida de Mesilla ( 575/523-8713; www.prestoncontemporaryart.com), which exhibits midcareer and emerging international artists in an airy contemporary space. For clothing, check out La Mariposa, 2470 Calle de Guadalupe ( 575/647-2636), for brightly colored whimsical women’s wear and jewelry at a reasonable price.

On the plaza, the Nambe Showroom ( 575/527-4623; www.nambe.com) displays handcrafted tableware by Nambe Mills in Santa Fe. It’s a great place to shop for gifts.

For books, try Mesilla Book Center, in an 1856 mercantile building on the west side of Old Mesilla Plaza ( 575/526-6220).

For native crafts and jewelry, check out Silver Assets ★, 1948 Calle de Santiago ( 575/523-8747; www.silverassetsonline.com), 1 1/2 blocks east of San Albino Church in Mesilla. Set back from the plaza itself, look for Galeri Azul, Mesilla Plaza ( 575/523-8783), offering whimsical T-shirts and sun hats, and kitschy jewelry.

Mesilla Valley Mall is a full-service shopping center at 700 S. Telshor Blvd., just off the I-25 interchange with Lohman Avenue ( 575/522-1001; www.mesillavalleymall.com), with well over 100 stores. The mall is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm and Sunday from noon to 6pm.

Southern New Mexico is a big wine-producing region. A few options for wine tastings include Blue Teal Vineyards, 2461 Calle de Guadalupe, south of Old Mesilla Plaza ( 877/669-4637 or 575/524-0390; www.blueteal.com). It’s open Monday through Thursday 11am to 6pm, Friday and Saturday 11am to 8pm, and Sunday noon to 6pm. The tasting room at La Viña Winery ( 575/882-7632; www.lavinawinery.com), south of Las Cruces off NM 28, is open Thursday to Tuesday from noon to 5pm, and by appointment. New to Mesilla is Vintage Wines, 2461 Calle de Principal ( 575/523-9463; www.vintagewinesandcigars.com), with a wine bar, cozy patio, and cigar offerings. It is open Wednesday and Thursday noon to 8pm, Friday and Saturday noon to 10pm, and Sunday noon to 5pm.

Las Cruces After Dark

National recording artists frequently perform at NMSU’s Pan Am Center ( 575/646-1420; www.panam.nmsu.edu). The NMSU Music Department ( 575/646-2421) offers free jazz, classical, and pop concerts from August to May, and the Las Cruces Symphony Orchestra ( 575/646-3709; www.lascrucessymphony.com) often performs here as well.

Hershel Zohn Theater ( 575/646-4515), at NMSU, presents plays of the professional/student American Southwest Theatre Company from September to May, featuring dramas, comedies, musicals, and original works. Visit http://theatre.nmsu.edu/astc for information. The No Strings Theatre Company at the Black Box Theatre, 430 N. Downtown Mall ( 575/523-1223; www.no-strings.org), presents an eclectic selection of plays in a relaxed atmosphere, including some excellent local works.

The Las Cruces Community Theatre ( 575/523-1200; www.lcctnm.org) mounts six productions a year at its own facility on the downtown mall.

The Mesilla Valley Film Society ( 575/524-8287; www.mesillavalleyfilm.org) runs a good selection of contemporary and vintage art films at the Fountain Theatre, 2469 Calle de Guadalupe, a half-block south of the plaza in Mesilla, nightly at 7:30pm and sometimes 9:45pm, and Sunday at 2:30pm and sometimes 5pm.

If you’d like a cocktail in a fun atmosphere, check out Azul Nightclub ★ in the Hotel Encanto, 705 S. Telshor Blvd. ( 866/383-0443 or 575/522-4300; www.hhandr.com). In a contemporary setting reminiscent of a Spanish nightclub, the city’s youngish business set has drinks and hors d‘oeuvres.

Rambling Downtown

The first Friday of each month all the galleries on the Downtown Mall stay open until 7pm for the Downtown Ramble. Most serve refreshments and have artists on-hand to visit with patrons. While wandering in the area stop in the Rio Grande Theatre, 211 N. Downtown Mall ( 575/523-6403; www.daarts.org). Built in 1926 as a movie palace, it has been restored to an elegant performing arts center. With Art Deco touches inside and out, including a restored neon sign and elaborate tile work, it’s worth seeing in its own right. But plenty happens in the theater, including some major productions. Past shows include Eliza Gilkyson in concert and a rendition of Prairie Home Companion. The theater sits along Main Street in downtown, also restored, offering a great place to stroll, though at this writing few shops had as yet opened up. One gallery worth checking out is M. Phillip’s, 300 N. Downtown Mall ( 575/525-1367; www.mphillipsgallery.com), which carries Russian and European fine art.

Exploring the Area

North of Las Cruces The town of Hatch, 39 miles north via I-25 or 34 miles north via NM 185, calls itself the “chile capital of the world.” It’s the center of a 22,000-acre agricultural belt that grows and processes more chile than anywhere else in the world. The annual Hatch Chile Festival over Labor Day weekend celebrates the harvest. For information, call the Hatch Chamber of Commerce ( 575/267-5050) or check out www.villageofhatch.org.

Fort Selden State Monument is 15 miles north of Las Cruces between I-25 (exit 19) and NM 185. Founded in 1865, Fort Selden housed the famous Black Cavalry, the “Buffalo Soldiers” who protected settlers from marauding natives. It was subsequently the boyhood home of Gen. Douglas MacArthur, whose father, Arthur, was in charge of troops patrolling the U.S.-Mexico border in the 1880s. The fort closed permanently in 1891. Today, elegantly eroded ruins remain. Displays in the visitor center tell Fort Selden’s story, including photos of young Douglas and his family. The monument is open Wednesday to Monday from 8:30am to 5pm; admission is $3 for adults and free for children age 16 and under. For more information, call 575/526-8911 or visit www.nmmonuments.org. Adjacent to the state monument, Leasburg Dam State Park ( 575/524-4068; www.nmparks.com) offers picnicking, camping, canoeing, and fishing.

South of Las Cruces Stahmann Farms, 10 miles south of La Mesilla on NM 28, is one of the world’s largest single producers of pecans. Several million pounds are harvested, mostly during November, from orchards in the bed of an ancient lake. Stahmann’s Country Store ★ ( 800/654-6887; www.stahmanns.com) sells pecans, pecan candy, ice cream, and other specialty foods, and it has a small cafe. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm, Sunday from 11am to 6pm. If you’d like to stay south of Las Cruces, book a night or two at Casa de Sueños ★, 405 Mountain Vista Rd., La Union, NM 88021 ( 575/874-9166; www.casaofdreams.com). Set high on a plain overlooking the Rio Grande River Valley, with the Franklin Mountains in the distance, it offers atmospheric Southwest-style rooms about a half-hour south of Las Cruces, with good access to El Paso.

Weaving Dreams

One day after enchiladas at Chope’s Café in La Mesa, I wandered down a dirt road nearby and found a little adobe garden house, the studio of weaver Rosie Chavarria-Jones. “I use whatever I have around and let the yarn solar dye,” she says. That might include marigolds, prickly pear cactus, purple cabbage, or pomegranates. Once the wool is dyed, she spins it and weaves it into scarves and shawls, which she sells from her shop. Her “A Mano Weaving Workshop” is at 216 E. Bellman in La Mesa ( 575/233-4363; amano4@peoplepc.com). Call to be sure she’s in.

War Eagles Air Museum ★ ( 575/589-2000; www.war-eagles-air-museum.com), at the Santa Teresa Airport, about 35 miles south of Las Cruces via I-10 (call or check the website for directions), has an extensive collection of historic aircraft from World War II and the Korean War, plus automobiles and a tank. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 4pm; admission is $5 for adults, $4 for senior citizens age 65 and over; free for children age 11 and under.

East of Las Cruces The Organ Mountains, so-called because they resemble the pipes of a church organ, draw inevitable comparisons to Wyoming’s Grand Tetons. Organ Peak, at 9,119 feet, is the highest point in Doña Ana County.

The Aguirre Springs Recreation Area ★★ ( 575/525-4300; www.blm.gov.nm), off US 70 on the western slope of the Organ Mountains, is one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever camped. Operated by the Bureau of Land Management, the camping and picnic sites sit at the base of the jagged Organ Mountains. Visitors to the area can hike, camp, picnic, or ride horseback (no horse rentals on-site). If you’d like to hike, don’t miss the Baylor Pass trail, which crosses along the base of the Organ peaks, up through a pass, and over to the Las Cruces side. Though the hike is 6 miles one-way, just over 2 miles will get you to the pass, where there’s a meadow with amazing views.

Where to Stay in & Around Las Cruces

Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces ★★ Spanish Colonial elegance defines this seven-story hotel on the east side of town, about a 15-minute drive from Mesilla, with an incredible view of the city and the Organ Mountains. The hotel was built in 1986, and implemented a major remodel in 2006, including new bedding and furnishings, all with a lovely Old World Mexican/Colonial motif. The lobby has a tiered fountain, colorful tile, and museum-quality furnishings. Rooms are spacious and outfitted with handcrafted furniture and comfortable beds with good linens. Photography by the noted artist Miguel Gandert dresses the walls. Baths are medium-size with granite countertops. Some rooms flank the pool and have little patios. The service here is excellent. The Café España serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in an elegant Spanish Colonial ambience, and the Azul Nightclub offers drinks with a contemporary Southwest flair.

705 S. Telshor Blvd., Las Cruces, NM 88011. 866/383-0443 or 575/522-4300. Fax 575/521-4707. www.hhandr.com. 203 units. $109–$159 double; $179–$199 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome ($25/day). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool (open in summer); room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

La Quinta Five minutes from Old Mesilla, this chain hotel provides relatively quiet and comfortable rooms with plenty of amenities. The clean and well-designed rooms range from medium to large, all with desks and medium-size bathrooms. An outdoor pool sits within a comfortable courtyard, an important addition in this warm climate. Guests eat their continental breakfast in a bright garden room off the lobby. When you reserve here ask for one of the “annex” rooms, which are the largest and newest. Also, be aware that trains pass near this area at night. A few casual dining restaurants have opened across the street.

790 Av. de Mesilla, Las Cruces, NM 88005. 800/531-5900 or 575/524-0331. Fax 575/525-8360. www.laquinta.com. $55–$97 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome. Amenities: Small fitness room; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

A Bed & Breakfast

The Lundeen Inn of the Arts ★ This boutique inn is a late-1890s adobe home, with whitewashed walls, narrow alleys, and arched doorways. It offers a range of rooms, each named for an artist. My favorites are in the main part of the house, set around a two-story garden room, with elegant antiques and arched windows. Most rooms are medium-size with comfortably firm beds dressed in good linens. Bathrooms are generally small and simple but clean. The inn is also an art gallery, displaying the works of about 30 Southwestern painters, sculptors, and potters. Breakfast includes fresh fruit and such specialties as pumpkin pancakes and huevos rancheros.

618 S. Alameda Blvd., Las Cruces, NM 88005. 888/526-3326 or 575/526-3326. Fax 575/647-1334. www.innofthearts.com. 7 units. $85–$99 double; $85–$120 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome. Amenities: Concierge. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Camping

Quite a few campgrounds are within or near Las Cruces. All the ones listed here include full hookups for RVs, tent areas, and recreation areas. KOA Las Cruces ( 575/526-6555; www.koa.com) also offers cabins and laundry and grocery facilities. From the junction of I-10 and US 70 (exit 135), go 1 1/2 miles east on US 70, and then half a block south on Weinrich Road.

Another option is Dalmont’s RV Park ( 575/523-2992). If you’re coming from the west, when you reach the junction of I-25 and I-10, go 2 1/2 miles northwest on I-10 to the Main Street exit, and then go 2 blocks west on Valley Drive. If you’re coming from the east, at the junction of I-10 and Main Street, go 1⁄4 mile north on Main Street and then 1 block west on Valley Drive. To reach Siesta RV Park ( 575/523-6816; www.siestarvpark.com), at the junction of I-10 and NM 28, take exit 140 and go half a mile south on NM 28. Leasburg Dam State Park ( 575/524-4068; www.nmparks.com) is a smaller park that also offers RV and tent camping, but it has no laundry or grocery facilities. A general country store is about 1 mile down the road, and hiking and fishing are available.

Where to Dine in & Around Las Cruces

Expensive

Double Eagle ★★ CONTINENTAL When I was a kid, whenever we went to Las Cruces, we always made a special trip to this elegant restaurant imbued with Old West style. I’m pleased to say that it’s still a quality place to dine. This 150-year-old Territorial-style hacienda that was once the governor’s mansion is on the National Register of Historic Places. Built around a central courtyard, it has numerous rooms, one of which is said to be frequented by a woman’s ghost. The menu is varied and includes pasta, chicken, fish, and steak dishes, with the beef aged in-house. My favorite is the filet mignon. All entrees come with salad, vegetable, and choice of potato or pasta. There’s a full bar, from which you might want to order a mango margarita, and for dessert you can end it all with the Death by Chocolate Cake. Peppers Café, set in the courtyard, serves inventive New Mexican fare at lunch. Try their signature dish, stuffed seafood chile rellenos.

2355 Calle de Guadalupe, on the east side of Mesilla Plaza. 575/523-6700. www.double-eagle-mesilla.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$15 lunch (at Peppers), $14–$36 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

Moderate

Lemongrass ★★ THAI This addition to the Las Cruces dining scene offers delicious flavors in a comfortably elegant atmosphere. It’s set in an open room accented with Thai tapestries on the walls. Service is congenial, though be prepared to wait a bit for the food. Chef Kimberly Ming uses very fresh ingredients and brings her own touch to traditional Thai dishes such as pad Thai—rice noodles with egg, bean sprouts, tofu, tamarind sauce, and shrimp or chicken. I’ve also enjoyed a delicious pad pong kari—broccoli, bell pepper, straw mushrooms, and chicken or shrimp in a yellow curry and coconut milk sauce. Unique to this Thai restaurant, the chef is open to dialing the spice way down so even tender palates can enjoy eating here. Enjoy beer and wine with your meal.

2540 El Paseo Rd. 575/523-8778. Reservations recommended on weekends in summer. Main courses $7–$15 lunch, $16–$20 dinner. AE, DISC, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 5–9pm.

Mix Pacific Rim Cuisine ★★ ASIAN/SUSHI With moody lighting and lots of fine details, this intimate restaurant serves artful Pacific Rim cuisine. Chinese paper lamps seem to float on the ceiling, while the wood tables are topped with inlaid Asian knickknacks, and a sushi bar lines one wall. Service is good. You might start with one of their fun drinks such as a Pacific Pleasure—silver sake with mango, orange, and apple juice. Next, move on to some Polynesian spring rolls with mango salsa. A number of salads dress the menu, as do a full range of sushi offerings. For lunch, the bento combinations are a good buy; such entrees as grilled salmon come with soup, salad, and steamed or fried rice. Dinner offerings are more upscale. You might try the steak wrap—fresh asparagus wrapped with grilled New York steak, or the spicy miso sea bass. Both come with soup, salad, wasabi-mashed potatoes and stir-fried vegetables. A fun choice for dessert is the banana spring rolls with ice cream. Beer and wine accompany the menu. Next door, the same restaurateur serves quality fast Asian food at Mix Express.

1001 University Ave. D4. 575/532-2042. www.mixpacificrim.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses lunch $7–$10, dinner $13–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm and 5–9pm; Sat noon–2pm and 5–9pm.

Sunset Grill & Wine Bar ★★ NEW AMERICAN/STEAKS With moody lighting and lots of fine details, this restaurant serves up good food and even better views. Located at Sonoma Ranch, an upscale golf community, the restaurant looks out over their golf course and serves three meals daily. The interior has a corner fireplace, stacked flagstone accents, and broad windows. The menu changes seasonally and always features some New Mexican entrees. Breakfast brings many selections of egg and pancake type dishes. Lunch offers soups, salads, and sandwiches, including an Asiago-and-steak sandwich with ranch dressing. Dinner focuses primarily on steak and seafood. Most recently, I enjoyed grilled halibut with white wine butter sauce, with mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus. The entrees include a choice of soup or salad, which makes the meals here a real value. A thoughtful wine list accompanies the menu. Live music plays nights Wednesday to Friday.

1274 Golf Club Rd. 575/521-1826. www.sonomaranch.com. Reservations recommended for weekend dinners. Main courses $8–$14 breakfast and lunch, $21–$38 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

Inexpensive

Chope’s Bar & Cafe ★ NEW MEXICAN This is one of those legendary spots, a requisite weekly pilgrimage for many. Drive 15 minutes south of Old Mesilla through pecan orchards to its door, and you’ll encounter a real locals’ scene. The dining rooms are plain. Set in an old house, they have tile floors, faux wood paneling, and closely set tables, usually full of families, businesspeople, and college students. You’ll feast on chile rellenos, enchiladas, and burritos. Whatever you order, make sure it’s smothered with red or green chile, if you can handle the heat. If not, opt for tacos or a hamburger. Kids like the place because it’s casual and they have their own menu. Service is friendly but very overworked. With your meal, order up margaritas or a Mexican beer, or, if you really wish to partake, head next door to the cantina, a dark and raucous place reminiscent of a border-town bar.

NM 28 (in the center of town in La Mesa; no street address). 575/233-3420 or 575/233-9976. Main courses $5–$10. MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–1:30pm and 5:30–8:30pm; cantina Tues–Sat 11:30am–9:30pm.

Farley’s BURGERS/SANDWICHES This big barnlike redbrick place offers pub food in a festive ambience. Part of a chain throughout southern New Mexico, it has entertainment along with food. While awaiting their meals kids and adults enjoy foosball, air hockey, and video games in the game room. The main part of the restaurant is a bar with tall tables for mixing with the scene or booths for more privacy. The third room is quieter and more family-oriented. Food here is rib-sticking, with such offerings as chicken Alfredo, pork ribs, fajitas, soups, salads, and burgers.

3499 Foothills Rd. 575/522-0466. Main courses $7–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

La Posta de Mesilla NEW MEXICAN/STEAKS If you’re on the Mesilla Plaza and want to eat New Mexican food for not much money, walk in here. The restaurant occupies a mid-18th-century adobe building that is the only surviving stagecoach station of the Butterfield Overland Mail route from Tipton, Missouri, to San Francisco. Kit Carson, Pancho Villa, General Douglas MacArthur, and Billy the Kid were all here at one time. The entrance leads through a jungle of tall plants beneath a Plexiglas roof, past a tank of piranhas and a noisy aviary of macaws and Amazon parrots, to nine dining rooms with bright, festive decor. (Kids love this and their own menu selections.) The tables are basic, with vinyl and metal chairs. Try the enchiladas, which come with a nice chile sauce. The tostadas (tortilla cups filled with beans and topped with chile and cheese) are a house specialty. There’s a full-service bar.

2410 Calle de San Albino (southeast corner of Old Mesilla Plaza). 575/524-3524. www.laposta-de-mesilla.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$16. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm (Fri–Sat till 9:30pm).

Lorenzo’s Restaurante Italiano de Old Messilla ★★ SICILIAN In a spirited building with lots of brick and with murals depicting rural scenes on the walls, the restaurant offers the feel of a Sicilian village cafe, a good indication of the quality of the food here. Rather than fancy Italian food like you find in many cities, this restaurant serves traditional Sicilian meals, with lots of red sauces and homemade pasta. It’s big with locals, and it fills up fast. The atmosphere is jovial and the service is good. You can’t go wrong with standards such as spaghetti marinara or lasagna, or for something more adventurous, try the linguini and clams. Meals are served with a salad of freshly tossed greens and bread so good you’ll have a tough time stopping yourself from eating it all. Wash it down with a carafe of Chianti or your favorite beer.

1750 Calle de Mercado #4 (Onate Plaza, a block from Old Mesilla Plaza). 575/525-3174. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Tues 11am–8:30pm; Wed–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–9:30pm.

Old Mesilla Pastry Café: The Shed ★★ NEW MEXICAN This small cafe with a colorful contemporary ambience serves terrific food. Tile floors and plum and orange art make for a friendly place to savor breakfast or lunch. The service is attentive. A good bet here is the breakfast enchiladas—corn tortillas with turkey sausage, onion, and cheese smothered in a red or green sauce with potatoes. The oatmeal pancakes are also delicious. At lunch, the wood-fired pizza is a good choice for those seeking an alternative to chile dishes. Pick up a loaf of their green chile cheddar bread to take with you.

810 S. Valley Dr. 575/525-2636. All menu items under $10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–2pm.

Tiffany’s Pizza & Greek American Cuisine ★★ GREEK/PIZZA Between sky-blue walls decorated with photos of Greece, this cafe serves flavorful pizza, sandwiches, and entrees to the tune of festive music. It’s a casual place with faux wood tables and tile floors and a TV with the sound off, but the food is authentic. One favorite is the Tiffany’s Pizza, which comes with sausage, pepperoni, pastrami, bell peppers, onion, and mushrooms, a good dish to take back to your hotel room after a long day. Or you could have a lamb gyro sandwich. My favorite here is the moussaka or the baked chicken; the latter comes with potatoes, vegetables, and salad at a great price. In fact, the portions are so large here, a couple could easily split a meal. Kids have their own menu, and the relaxed attitude will make them comfortable. Though no alcohol is served, there is Greek coffee, and baklava or Greek wedding cookies for dessert.

Telshor Tower Plaza G-1 (2 buildings behind the Hotel Encanto). 575/532-5002. Main courses $8–$15; pizza $15–$19. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 9am–8pm; Fri 9am–9pm; Sat 11am–9pm.

Deming & Lordsburg

New Mexico’s least populated corner is this one, which includes the “boot heel” of the Gadsden Purchase, poking 40 miles down toward Mexico (a great place for backpacking). These two railroad towns, an hour apart on I-10, see a lot of traffic; but whereas Deming (pop. 15,500) is thriving as a ranching and retirement center, Lordsburg’s population has declined to approximately 2,800. This is a popular area for rockhounds, aficionados of ghost towns, and history buffs: Columbus, 32 miles south of Deming, was attacked by the Mexican bandit-revolutionary Pancho Villa in 1916. The U.S. military retaliated by sending 10,000 troops into Mexico to find him, to no avail.

Essentials

Getting There From Las Cruces, take I-10 west (1 hr. to Deming, 2 hr. to Lordsburg). From Tucson, take I-10 east (3 hr. to Lordsburg, 4 hr. to Deming).

Great Lakes Airlines ( 575/388-4115; www.flygreatlakes.com) flies daily to Grant County Airport ( 575/388-4554), 15 miles south of Silver City near Hurley. The Las Cruces Shuttle Service, P.O. Box 3172, Las Cruces, NM 88003 ( 800/288-1784 or 575/525-1784; www.lascrucesshuttle.com), runs several times daily between Deming and the El Paso airport by way of Las Cruces.

Visitor Information The Deming–Luna County Chamber of Commerce is at 800 E. Pine St., Deming ( 800/848-4955 or 575/546-2674; www.demingchamber.com). The Greater Hidalgo Area Chamber of Commerce is at 117 E. 2nd St., Lordsburg, NM 88045 ( 575/542-9864).

What to See & Do Near Deming

Deming Luna Mimbres Museum ★ Deming was the meeting place of the second east-west railroad to connect the Pacific and Atlantic coasts, and that heritage is recalled in this museum, run by the Luna County Historical Society. It has a stellar geode collection; a room featuring the John and Mary Alice King Collection of Mimbres pottery; and a doll room with more than 800 dolls. A 5,000-square-foot adjacent space displays transportation-related exhibits, including a replica of a railroad depot, a Harvey House, and vintage fire trucks. Across the street is the Custom House, a turn-of-the-20th-century adobe home that has been turned into a walk-through exhibit.

301 S. Silver Ave., Deming. 575/546-2382. Fax 575/544-0121. Free admission; donations encouraged. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; Sun 1:30–4pm.

French & Italian vintages

As one of New Mexico’s best wine growing regions, this area offers two quality vineyards, each with a tasting room well worth visiting. St. Clair Winery & Visitor Center ★★, 1325 DeBaca Rd. SE ( 866/336-7357 or 575/546-1179; www.stclairvineyards.com), the largest wine producer in the state, is run by Florent Lescombe, a sixth-generation French wine grower. It is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm and Sunday noon to 6pm. Luna Rossa Winery ★★, 3710 West Pine St. ( 575/544-1160; www.lunarossawinery.com), features vintages designed by Paolo and Sylvia D’Andrea from northeastern Italy. Paolo comes from a heritage of four generations of wine growers. The tasting room is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm and Sunday noon to 6pm.

Getting Outside

At Rockhound State Park ★, 14 miles southeast of Deming via NM 11, visitors are encouraged to pick up and take home with them as much as 15 pounds of minerals—jasper, agate, quartz crystal, flow-banded rhyolite, and others. At the base of the Little Florida Mountains, the park is a lovely, arid, cactus-covered land with paths leading down into dry gullies and canyons. (You may have to walk a bit, as the more accessible minerals have been largely picked out.)

The campground ($10 for nonelectric hookup; $18 with sewage and electric hookup), which has shelters, restrooms, and showers, offers a distant view of mountain ranges all the way to the Mexican border. The park also has one marked hiking trail and a playground. Admission is $5 per vehicle, and the park is open year-round from dawn to dusk. For more information, contact 575/546-6182; www.nmparks.com.

Some 35 miles south of Deming is the tiny border town of Columbus, which looks across at Mexico. The Pancho Villa State Park ★ here marks the last foreign invasion of American soil. A temporary fort, where a tiny garrison was housed in tents, was attacked in 1916 by 600 Mexican revolutionaries, who cut through the boundary fence at Columbus. Eighteen Americans were killed, 12 wounded; an estimated 200 Mexicans died. The Mexicans immediately retreated across their border. An American punitive expedition, headed by Gen. John J. Pershing, was launched into Mexico but got nowhere. Villa restricted his banditry to Mexico after that, until his assassination in 1923.

The state park includes ruins of the old fort and a visitor center and 7,000-square-foot museum offering exhibits and a film. The park also has a strikingly beautiful desert botanical garden (worth the trip alone), plus campsites, restrooms, showers, an RV dump station, and a playground. There’s a $5-per-vehicle entrance fee; the park is staffed daily from 8am to 5pm. For more information, contact 575/531-2711; www.nmparks.com.

Across the street from the state park is the old Southern Pacific Railroad Depot, which has been restored by the Columbus Historical Society and now houses the Columbus Historical Museum ( 575/531-2620), which contains railroad memorabilia and exhibits on local history. Call for hours, which vary.

If you’d like to stay in Columbus, call Martha’s Place Bed & Breakfast, Main and Lima streets ( 575/531-2467; www.marthasplacebb.com). It’s a two-story stucco Pueblo-style adobe painted cream and green, with Victorian touches inside. The medium-size rooms have comfortable beds and French doors leading to a balcony. Prices are $75 double. Rates include breakfast. Pets are welcome.

Three miles south across the border in Mexico is Las Palomas, Chihuahua (pop. 1,500). The port of entry is open 24 hours. A few desirable restaurants and tourist-oriented businesses are in Las Palomas. Mostly, though, it’s a drug-trafficking town. Beware of barhopping in Palomas at night, as it can be dangerous.

What to See & Do Near Lordsburg

Visitors to Lordsburg can go rockhounding in this area rich in minerals of many kinds. Desert roses can be found near Summit, and agate is known to exist in many abandoned mines locally. Mine dumps, southwest of Hachita, contain lead, zinc, and gold; the Animas Mountains have manganese. Volcanic glass can be picked up in Coronado National Forest, and you can pan for gold in Gold Gulch.

Rodeo, 30 miles southwest via I-10 and NM 80, is the home of the Chiricahua Gallery ( 575/557-2225; www.rodeonewmexico.com), open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Regional artists have joined in a nonprofit, cooperative venture to exhibit works and offer classes in a variety of media. Many choose to live on the high-desert slopes of the Chiricahua Range. Look especially for the inspirational bird-filled landscapes of Jean Bohlender. The gallery is on NM 80 en route to Douglas, Arizona.

Shakespeare Ghost Town A national historic site, Shakespeare was once the home of 3,000 miners, promoters, and dealers of various kinds. Under the name Ralston, it enjoyed a silver boom in 1870. This was followed by a notorious diamond fraud in 1872, in which a mine was salted with diamonds in order to raise prices on mining stock; many notables were sucked in, particularly William Ralston, founder of the Bank of California. It enjoyed a mining revival in 1879 under its new name, Shakespeare. Since 1935, it’s been privately owned by the Hill family, which has kept it uncommercialized, with no souvenir hype or gift shops. Six original buildings and two reconstructed buildings survive in various stages of repair. Two-hour guided tours are offered on a limited basis, and reenactments and living history are staged on the fourth weekends of April, June, August, and October, if performers are available. Phone to confirm the performances.

2 1/2 miles south of Lordsburg (no street address), P.O. Box 253, Lordsburg, NM 88045. 575/542-9034. www.shakespeareghostown.com. Admission $4 adults, $3 children 6–12; for shootouts and special events $5 adults, $4 children. Open only 10am–2pm on the 2nd Sun and preceding Sat of each month. Special tours by appointment. To reach Shakespeare, drive 1 1/2 miles south from I-10 on Main St. Just before the town cemetery, turn right, proceed 1⁄2 mile, and turn right again. Follow the dirt road another 1⁄2 mile into Shakespeare.

Where to Stay in Deming & Lordsburg

In Deming

Holiday Inn ★ Just off I-10, the Holiday Inn brings a bit of style to dusty Deming. Though from the outside the 1974 two-story white brick structure appears basic, the rooms—with renovations in 2009—tell another story. Each is medium-size with light pine furniture and decorated in Aztec prints, with bold expressionist paintings on the walls. Bathrooms are small but each has a vanity with granite counters. Some of the suites come with Jacuzzis. The large pool is surrounded by lush grass; request a poolside room and you’ll have a bit of a resort feel. The hotel’s restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, serving New Mexican and American food.

Off I-10, exit 85 (P.O. Box 1138), Deming, NM 88031. 800/465-4329 or 575/546-2661. Fax 575/546-6308. www.ichotels.com. 116 units. $67–$85 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool (summer); room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

La Quinta Inn ★ True to its origins, this new whitewashed hotel provides consistent and comfortable rooms at a decent price. Each is medium size with high ceilings, red-wood furniture, and earth-tone decor. The beds are comfortable and the bathrooms spacious enough and with granite countertops. This is a good option if you’d like a newer-style hotel than the Holiday Inn next door.

4300 E. Pine St., Deming, NM 88030. 800/753-3757 or 575/546-0600. Fax 575/544-8207. www.laquinta.com. 58 units. $79–$105 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; outdoor heated pool (summer). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi.

In Lordsburg

Comfort Inn Lordsburg ★ This new three-story hotel remains true to its brand, providing clean and comfortable rooms at a reasonable price. All rooms are spacious with earth-tone decor, contemporary mahogany-style furnishings, and a desk. The king rooms have a sleeper sofa, a good option for families. This is definitely your best option in town.

400 W. Wabash St., Lordsburg, NM 88045. 877/526-3938 or 575/542-3355. Fax 575/542-3360. www.comfortinn.com. 64 units. $84–$99 double. Rates include full hot breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets ($10 fee). Amenities: Jacuzzi; indoor pool; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Camping in & Around Deming & Lordsburg

City of Rocks State Park, in Deming ( 575/536-2800; www.nmparks.com), has 55 campsites, 10 with electric hookups; tent sites are available, and picnic tables and a hiking trail are nearby. Dreamcatcher RV Park ( 575/544-4004), also in Deming (take exit 85, Motel Dr., off I-10 and go 1 block south on Business I-10), has 92 sites, all with full hookups. It also offers free access to a nearby swimming pool and on-site laundry facilities. Little Vineyard RV Park ( 575/546-3560) in Deming (from I-10 take exit 85 and go 1 mile southwest on Business I-10 toward Deming) is larger than those already mentioned. It has 150 with full hookups, limited groceries, an indoor pool and hot tub, cable TV hookups, Wi-Fi, and a small RV parts store. The campground at Rockhound State Park ( 575/546-6182; www.nmparks.com) is picturesque and great for rockhounds who can’t get enough of their hobby. RV sites with hookups and tent sites are both available, as are shelters, restrooms, and showers.

If you’d rather camp near Lordsburg, try Lordsburg KOA ( 800/562-5772 or 575/542-8003; www.koa.com). It’s in a desert setting but with shade trees, and tenting is permitted. Grocery and laundry facilities are available, in addition to a recreation area, a swimming pool, a playground, and horseshoes. To reach the campground, take I-10 to exit 22 and then go 1 block south; next, turn right at the Chevron station and follow the signs to the campground.

Where to Dine in Deming & Lordsburg

In Deming

Palma’s Italian Grill ★ ITALIAN Set in an old bank building still equipped with its late 1800s vault, this restaurant serves traditional Italian dishes in a festive atmosphere. With checkered tablecloths and high ceilings, the place is airy and the service friendly. A big seller here is the spaghetti and meatballs with sausage, as is the lasagna, both served with a salad and fresh-baked bread. The steaks are also good, served with soup or salad, and baked potato or pasta. Lighter dishes such as a Caesar salad with grilled chicken, shrimp, or salmon, are available as well. A kids’ menu, including some American offerings, makes them feel at home. Finish with a piece of homemade pie, a cannoli, or spumoni ice cream. A beer and wine list accompanies the menu.

110 S. Silver Ave., Deming. 575/544-3100. Main courses $7–$24. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–9pm; Sun 11am–3pm.

Si Señor ★ NEW MEXICAN Locals crowd this downtown cafe to eat platters full of tasty New Mexican food. The interior has functional furniture and a lovely tile floor. At breakfast, try the huevos rancheros. The big seller here for lunch and dinner is the deluxe combination, with a chile relleno, a tamale, a cheese enchilada, a taco, refried beans, Spanish rice, and red or green chile. The menu also sports salads, hamburgers, and chicken and fish dishes. All come with chips and salsa, and wine and beer are served.

200 E. Pine, Deming. 575/546-3938. Main courses $6–$10 breakfast, $5–$12 lunch and dinner. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm; Sun 1–10pm.

In Lordsburg

Kranberry’s Family Restaurant AMERICAN/MEXICAN A friendly, casual Denny’s-style family restaurant decorated with Southwestern art, Kranberry’s offers American favorites, including eggs and pancakes for breakfast; and burgers, chicken, beef, and salads, as well as Mexican selections for lunch and dinner. Baked goods are made on the premises daily. My favorite is the corn bread, served with the soup special.

1405 S. Main St., Lordsburg. 575/542-9400. Main courses $4–$7 breakfast, $6–$17 lunch and dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–9:30pm.

Silver City ★★

Silver City (pop. 10,000) is an old mining town, in the foothills of the Pinos Altos Range of the Mogollon Mountains, and gateway to the Gila Wilderness and the Gila Cliff Dwellings. It is also a cultural center that offers imaginative galleries and inventive dining.

Early Native Americans mined turquoise from these hills, and by 1804, Spanish settlers were digging for copper. In 1870, a group of prospectors discovered silver, and the rush was on. In 10 short months, the newly christened Silver City grew from a single cabin to more than 80 buildings. Early visitors included Billy the Kid, Judge Roy Bean, and William Randolph Hearst.

This comparatively isolated community kept pace with every modern convenience: telephones in 1883, electric lights in 1884 (only 2 years after New York City installed its lighting), and a water system in 1887. The town should have gone bust with the crash of silver prices in 1893. But unlike many Western towns, Silver City did not become a picturesque memory. It capitalized on its high, dry climate to become today’s county seat and trade center. Copper mining and processing is still the major industry. But Silver City also can boast a famous son: The late Harrison (Jack) Schmitt, the first civilian geologist to visit the moon, and later a U.S. senator, was born and raised in nearby Santa Rita.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-25 south, 15 miles past Truth or Consequences; then west on NM 152 and US 180 (5 hr.). From Las Cruces, take I-10 west to Deming, and then north on US 180 (2 hr.).

Great Lakes Airlines ( 575/388-4115) flies daily to Grant County Airport ( 575/388-4554), 15 miles south of Silver City near Hurley. Silver Stage Lines ( 800/522-0162) offers daily shuttle service to and from the El Paso airport, and charter service to and from Tucson. The Las Cruces Shuttle Service ( 800/288-1784 or 575/525-1784; www.lascrucesshuttle.com) runs several times daily between Silver City and the El Paso airport, by way of Las Cruces.

Visitor Information The Murray Ryan Visitor Center, at 201 N. Hudson St., Silver City, NM 88061 ( 800/548-9378 or 575/538-3785; www.silvercity.org), also houses the Silver City Grant County Chamber of Commerce and is a good source of information. The chamber produces extremely useful tourist publications. Also of note at this site is a replica 1870s log cabin donated to the city by movie producer Ron Howard. It was built for the filming of the 2005 movie The Missing. A plaque on it says that Billy the Kid likely lived in one similar to it when he was a young resident of this town.

What to See & Do in Silver City

Silver City’s downtown Historic District ★, the first such district to receive National Register recognition, is a must for visitors. The downtown core is marked by the extensive use of brick in construction: Brick clay was discovered in the area soon after the town’s founding in 1870, and an 1880 ordinance prohibited frame construction within the town limits. Mansard-roofed Victorian houses, Queen Anne and Italianate residences, and commercial buildings show off the cast-iron architecture of the period. Some are still undergoing restoration.

An 1895 flood washed out Main Street and turned it into a gaping chasm, which was eventually bridged over; finally, the Big Ditch, as it’s called, was made into a green park in the center of town. Facing downtown, in the 500 block of North Hudson Street, was a famous red-light district from the turn-of-the-20th-century until the late 1960s.

Billy the Kid lived in Silver City as a youth. You can see his cabin site a block north of the Broadway Bridge, on the east side of the Big Ditch. The Kid (William Bonney) waited tables at the Star Hotel, at Hudson Street and Broadway. He was jailed (at 304 N. Hudson St.) in 1875 at the age of 15, after being convicted of stealing from a Chinese laundry, but he escaped—a first for the Kid. The grave of Bonney’s mother, Catherine McCarty, is in Silver City Cemetery, east of town on Memory Lane, off US 180. She died of tuberculosis about a year after the family moved here in 1873.

Silver City Walking Tours ★ ( 575/534-4841; www.silvercitywalks.com) offers a “leisurely stroll” through town highlighting tales of Billy the Kid, Geronimo and other historic characters. Tours are by appointment and cost $15.

Silver City Museum ★ This very well-presented museum of city and regional history contains collections relating to southwestern New Mexico history, mining, Native American pottery, and early photographs. Exhibits include a southwestern New Mexico history timeline, a parlor displaying Victorian decorative arts, and a chronicle of commerce in early Silver City. A local history research library is available to visitors also. The main gallery features changing exhibits. The museum is lodged in the 1881 H. B. Ailman House, a former city hall and fire station, remarkable for its cupola and Victorian mansard roof. Ailman came to Silver City penniless in 1871, made a fortune in mining, and went on to start the Meredith and Ailman Bank. Guided historic district walking tours are offered on Memorial Day and Labor Day. There’s also a museum store. Take a fun trip up into the cupola for a nice view of the city.

312 W. Broadway. 575/538-5921. Fax 575/388-1096. www.silvercitymuseum.org. Suggested donation $3 per person. Tues–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 10am–4pm. Closed Mon except Memorial Day and Labor Day.

Western New Mexico University Museum (WNMU) Spread across 80 acres on the west side of Silver City, WNMU celebrated its centennial in 1993. The university boasts a 2,800-student enrollment and 24 major buildings. Among them is historic 1916 Fleming Hall, which houses this interesting museum. The WNMU museum has the largest permanent exhibit of prehistoric Mimbres pottery in the world. Also displayed are Casas Grandes Indian pottery, stone tools, ancient jewelry, historic photographs, and mining artifacts. Displays change regularly, so there’s always something new to see, such as vanishing Americana, riparian fossils, Nigerian folk art, or a collection of 18th- to 20th-century timepieces. There is a gift shop here.

1000 W. College, Fleming Hall, WNMU. 575/538-6386. www.wnmu.edu/univ/museum.htm. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 10am–4pm.

Way Beyond Silver

Silver City has become an artists’ mecca, as creative people retreat to the small town for the peace it offers. You can spend a fun day wandering the streets. Some of my favorite shops and galleries include Silver City Trading Company’s Antique Mall, 205 W. Broadway ( 575/388-8989), which is packed with a range of items, from fun junk to Western antiques. Copper Quail Gallery, 211-A N. Texas St. ( 575/388-2646), offers wonderful regional art. Blue Dome Gallery, 307 N. Texas St. ( 575/534-8671; www.bluedomegallery.com), carries inventive contemporary art and crafts, while Seedboat Gallery, 214 W. Yankee St. ( 575/534-1136; www.seedboatgallery.com), offers more earthy fare. Look for photos by Robert Medina Cook. A fun stop for coffee and a look at period photos of Silver City’s “Big Ditch” is Yankie Creek Coffee House, 112 W. Yankie ( 575/534-9025), open Monday to Saturday 7am to 6pm, and Sunday 7am to 4pm. If you’re craving a cold treat, head to Alotta Gelato, 619 N. Bullard St. 575/534-4995; www.alottagelato.com), serving a broad range of gelato flavors, including Romeo and Juliet, their primo chocolate chip. Open Sunday to Thursday noon to 9pm, Friday and Saturday noon to 10pm.

Silver City After Dark

Silver City Brewing Co. ★ 101 E. College ( 575/534-2739; www.swnmbeer.com), the town’s brewpub, offers tasty beer and a menu including pizza, pasta, sandwiches, and salads. Best of all here, during warm months, live music plays on the patio on weekends. It’s open daily 11am to 8pm. Isaac’s Bar & Grill ★ offers live entertainment on Saturday nights and fun activities on other nights as well, including a Trivia Night on Wednesdays. See “Where to Dine in & Around Silver City,” below.

Exploring the Area

North of Silver City The virtual ghost town of Pinos Altos ★, straddling the Continental Divide, is 6 miles north of Silver City on NM 15. Dubbed “Tall Pines” when it was founded in the gold- and silver-rush era, Apache attacks and mine failures took their toll.

The adobe Methodist-Episcopal Church was built with William Randolph Hearst’s money in 1898 and now houses the Grant County Art Guild. The town also has the Log Cabin Curio Shop and Museum, set in an 1866 cabin ( 575/388-1882), and the Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House. Pinos Altos Horse Drawn Carriage Rides ( 575/534-9605) will tour you around the town on a carriage pulled by draft horses Bonnie and Clyde from Wednesdays to Sundays 11am to 4:30pm. Call for reservations.

If you’d like to stay in the village, contact Bear Creek Motel & Cabins, on NM 15 ( 575/388-4501; www.bearcreekcabins.com). Set among ponderosa pines, it’s a nice, cool place to spend time. The cabins are a little dark, but quite cozy, most with a porch where guests grill their own food. Prices range from $119 to $159.

Thar’s Copper in Them Thar Hills

Southern New Mexico has carried on its mining legacy into the present, with two fully operating mines. 12 miles south of Silver City on NM 90 is the Freeport-McMoRan Tyrone Inc. Open Pit Copper Mine ( 575/538-5331). Some 60 million tons of rock are taken out every year. Former mine owner Phelps Dodge consolidated its Tyrone holdings in 1909 and hired famous architect Bertram Goodhue to design a “Mediterranean-style” company town. Tyrone, later referred to as the Million Dollar Ghost Town, was constructed between 1914 and 1918. A drop in copper prices caused it to be abandoned virtually overnight. After a pre–World War II incarnation as a luxurious dude ranch, Tyrone lay dormant for years until the late 1960s, when the town made way for the present-day open pit mine and mill.

The oldest active mine in the Southwest, and among the largest in America, is the Freeport-McMoRan Chino Mines Co. Open Pit Copper Mine (commonly called the Santa Rita Copper Mine; 575/537-3381) at Santa Rita, 15 miles east of Silver City via US 180 and NM 152. The multicolored open pit is a mile wide and 1,000 feet deep, and can be viewed from an observation point. Even if you scorn such catastrophic gashes in the earth, it’s worth stopping to look out over the mine. Unfortunately, no tours are available at this writing.

South of Silver City City of Rocks State Park ★ ( 575/536-2800; www.nmparks.com), 25 miles from Silver City via US 180 and NM 61, is an area of fantastically shaped volcanic rock formations, formed in ancient times from thick blankets of ash that hardened into tuff. This soft stone, eroded by wind and rain, was shaped into monolithic blocks reminiscent of Stonehenge. For some, the park resembles a medieval village; for others, it’s a collection of misshapen, albeit benign, giants. Complete with a desert garden, the park offers excellent camping and picnic sites. It’s also a renowned spot for bouldering, a type of rock climbing in which participants don’t use ropes. Day use is allowed from 7am to 9pm for $5 per vehicle; a campsite costs $8 to $18 (pay at self-service pay station). The visitor center is typically open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm, but its hours may vary, depending on volunteer staffing.

West of Silver City US 180, heading northwest from Silver City, is the gateway to Catron County and most of the Gila National Forest, including the villages of Glenwood, Reserve, and Quemado. For details on this area, see “Other Adventures in Gila National Forest,” later.

Where to Stay in & Around Silver City

Silver City now offers a full range of chain hotels, many with reasonable prices, so if you have a favorite, call their 800 number to see if it’s represented. Most lodgings in town provide free parking.

Holiday Inn Express ★ East of downtown, this hotel offers clean and quiet rooms with standards you expect from the brand name. Rooms are medium-size, decorated with earth tones, and have high ceilings, large windows letting in lots of sunlight, and a desk and chair. Beds are comfortable. The medium-size bathrooms are very clean. Be sure not to book room no. 121, which has noisy pipes playing tunes through the night.

1103 Superior St., Silver City, NM 88061. 800/465-4329 or 575/538-2525. Fax 575/538-2525. 60 units. $114 double; $140 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets allowed in some rooms. Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

The Palace Hotel If you like the feel of an Old West downtown hotel in the center of the historic district, this is your spot. First established in 1882 as a bank, then opened as a hotel in 1900, it closed for many years but was reopened in 1990 as a small European-style hotel. Each of the rooms on the second floor is shaped and decorated differently. All are eclectic, some with antiques. The beds are medium firm, and the standard-size bathrooms are very clean with old fixtures, some with new toilets. Suites have a microwave and fridge. The rooms closest to the upstairs sitting room and breakfast area are the nicest. If you’re not accustomed to city noise, you’ll want to avoid this place, as traffic noise can be loud into the night.

106 W. Broadway (P.O. Box 5093), Silver City, NM 88061. 575/388-1811. www.zianet.com/palacehotel. 19 units. $48–$63 double; $79 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Lounge; Wi-Fi (in some parts of hotel). In room: No phone.

Smaller Inns

Inn on Broadway ★★ This bed-and-breakfast set on a quiet street in the historic district offers an atmospheric stay in an 1883 Victorian home. The inn has marble fireplaces, hardwood floors, and is decorated with antiques. Each guestroom has its own style, such as the Garden Suite, with bright flower-trimmed walls, lots of light, and a sitting room with a sleeper sofa. A full breakfast is served in the sunny southwest-facing dining room. The innkeepers here go out of their way to provide guests with an enjoyable stay.

411 W. Broadway, Silver City, NM 88061. 575/388-5485. www.innonbroadwayweb.com. 4 units. $95–$155 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Rates include full breakfast. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Casitas de Gila ★★ If you’re looking for a remote and peaceful stay in the quintessential southern New Mexico terrain, this inn is for you. Set on a little bluff above Bear Creek, about a half-hour from Silver City, these five casitas offer the epitome of Southwestern style. The adobe-style dwellings are decorated with Spanish-style furniture and Mexican rugs. The medium-size guestrooms come well equipped with comfortable beds, bath supplies, and bathrobes. Each also has a kiva fireplace and a small porch with a chiminea (Mexican ceramic fireplace) and a grill. On hand is a hot tub with a view of the creek, canyon, and sky. The area is great for birding and hiking, and horseback riding can be arranged. Also on the property are 226 acres with hiking trails, an art gallery, and a courtyard.

50 Casita Flats Rd. (P.O. Box 325), Gila, NM 88038. 877/923-4827 or 575/535-4455. Fax 575/535-4456. www.casitasdegila.com. 5 casitas. $130–$210 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Concierge; Jacuzzi. In room: Kitchen, Wi-Fi.

Relax in History

Set in a Queen Anne–style home dating from 1906, the Ciénega Spa & Salon, 101 N. Cooper St. ( 575/534-1600; www.cienegaspasalon.com), offers a full range of treatments between bisque- and azure-colored walls. The place also serves as an art gallery, representing many local artists as well as pottery from the villagers of Mata Ortiz, Mexico.

Camping

Silver City KOA ( 800/562-7623 or 575/388-3351; www.silvercitykoa.com) has 82 sites and 42 full hookups, and it offers groceries, laundry facilities, a pool, basketball and volleyball courts, a playground, and pet park. The campground is 5 miles east of the NM 90/US 180 junction, 11824 US 180. Silver City RV Park ( 575/538-2239; www.silvercityrv.com) has 48 sites (45 with full hookups), showers, laundry facilities, and picnic tables. It’s downtown on Bennett Street, behind Food Basket supermarket. Camping is also available at the Gila Cliff Dwellings (see “Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument,” below).

Where to Dine in & Around Silver City

Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House ★★ BURGERS/SEAFOOD/STEAKS Seven miles north of Silver City in Pinos Altos, the Buckhorn offers fine dining in 1860s decor. It’s completely authentic, with vigas on the ceiling and thick adobe walls, and a recent renovation has brought a more contemporary touch. The restaurant is noted for its Western-style steaks, seafood, and excellent wine list. If you’ve got a big appetite, try the New York strip or the center-cut pork chop. Entrees come with bread, a salad or soup, and choice of potatoes or onion rings. The high-personality saloon offers an Old West feel with a grand fireplace and a wooden bar, where the mannequin Indian Joe always presides. Many come to this saloon to have excellent burgers and hear live music on selected nights. In the attached opera house, live music also plays some nights, so check the website for a schedule.

32 Main St., Pinos Altos. 575/538-9911. www.buckhornsaloonandoperahouse.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm; saloon Mon–Sat 3–11pm.

The Curious Kumquat ★★ NEW AMERICAN It’s challenging enough for chefs in locales such as Santa Fe and Albuquerque—where small farms are fairly common—to supply their restaurants with local, seasonal ingredients. But doing so in a remote place like this takes real courage. Chef Rob Connoley manages the feat boldly. At lunch you’ll select from a variety of salads and sandwiches as well as a daily special. A favorite is the Robwich—Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese, applewood-smoked bacon, greens, and tomatoes on grilled sourdough. At dinner, the candied pork belly blue corn taco has a blue corn cone filled with pork that’s accented with sugar-salt and smoked paprika and cooked for 24 hours, served with crispy kale and tomato chutney. You’ll feast on such delicacies in the simple setting of a novelty food store set in a restored 1876 home, with modern furnishings set on hardwood floors. During summer, the shaded patio provides a nice retreat. A well-conceived wine list accompanies the menu.

111 E. College Ave. 575/534-0337. www.curiouskumquat.com. Main courses $4.50–$7 lunch, $15–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm; Thurs–Sat 5:30–10pm.

Diane’s Bakery & Cafe ★★ NEW AMERICAN This is a wonderful find in such a small town. Diane Barrett, who was once a pastry chef at La Traviata and Eldorado in Santa Fe, has brought refined city food to this small town. At lunch, the atmosphere is bustling, usually with a slight wait for a table. At dinner, the tone is romantic and low key, with more nouveau specialties. The service is friendly and adequate. You can’t go wrong with any of the baked goods here. At brunch, try the hatch Benedict, a version of eggs Benedict made with home-baked chile cheddar toast. At lunch I suggest the spanakopita, a baked spinach pastry, served with a salad; the quiche of the day is also delicious. At dinner, you may want to order the pork loin, with mashed potatoes and house-made apple sauce, or the seafood Thai coconut curry. Diane’s also serves great steaks. There’s a small but creative wine and beer menu. Don’t leave without sampling one of the desserts, such as the four-layer chocolate cake. Next door, Diane’s Parlor serves wine and light fare, with more extended hours.

510 N. Bullard St., Silver City. 575/538-8722. www.dianesrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $6–$9 breakfast and lunch, $15–$25 dinner. MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–2pm and 5:30–9pm; brunch Sat–Sun 9am–2pm.

Isaac’s Bar & Grill ★ PUB FOOD/AMERICAN With the charm of an 1881 historic building, once housing Isaac N. Cohen’s mercantile business, this restaurant and bar serves good sandwiches, burgers, salads, and grilled meat and fish dishes. The main room is a pub, with tall tables and lots of locals talking among them. The second room is large with tables spread about. Both rooms have hardwood floors, aged brick walls, and high ceilings. The service here can be somewhat evasive, though friendly. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday, with standards such as eggs Benedict and French toast. A big seller here at lunch and dinner is the buffalo burger, with a choice of salad, soup, or the restaurant’s special duck fat french fries. Lighter appetites might like the Greek salad, with veggies, kalamata olives, and feta, served with pita bread. Local live music, ranging from rock to Western to folk to blues, plays on Saturday nights.

200 N. Bullard. 575/388-4090. www.isaacsbarandgrill.com. Main courses $8–$19. MC, V. Mon–Tues 11am–midnight; Wed–Sat 11am–1:30am; Sun noon–midnight.

Jalisco’s ★ NEW MEXICAN Set within an enchanting brick building in the historic district, this festive, nonsmoking restaurant serves big portions of good food. Three dining rooms fill the old structure, which has been Latinized with arched doorways and bold Mexican street-scene calendars on the walls. The combination plates are large and popular, as are the enchiladas. There are also burgers and a children’s menu. Whatever you do, be sure to order a sopaipilla for dessert. They’re delicious and huge. Beer and wine are served.

103 S. Bullard St., Silver City. 575/388-2060. Main courses $6–$12. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–8:30pm.

Shevek & Company Restaurant ★★ INTERNATIONAL You can travel to many places at this sweet restaurant in the center of town. Chef Shevek Barnhart has spent much of his life absorbing culinary magic from relatives and friends with backgrounds ranging from Italian to Moroccan. The ambience is clean bistro in the main room, a little more formal in a connecting dining room, and more casual on the patio. At lunch, the kosher pastrami Reuben is piled with goodies. Dinner brings such delights as Tunisian barbecue chicken over couscous. Shevek & Co. boasts the largest selection of wines and microbrews in the region.

602 N. Bullard St. 575/534-9168. www.silver-eats.com. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $3–$12 brunch, $5–$18 lunch, $10–$24 dinner. DISC, MC, V. Sun–Tues and Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–9:30pm. Closes 1/2-hour earlier in winter.

Vicki’s Eatery ★ SALADS/SANDWICHES Set in a historic building, with hardwood floors and high ceilings, this cafe serves comfort food using fresh ingredients. The place specializes in soups, salads, and sandwiches ranging from healthful to decadent. For breakfast, you might have chorizo or smoked sausage and eggs. At lunch, the Reuben sandwich is thick and served on robust pumpernickel, with German potato salad on the side. Quesadillas are also popular. Heart-healthy selections are available as well. Their carrot cake is stellar.

315 Texas St. (at Market St.). 575/388-5430. Main courses $5–$11. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–3pm; Sun 8am–2pm.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument ★★

It takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours to reach the Gila Cliff Dwellings from Silver City, but it’s definitely worth the trip. First-time visitors are inevitably awed by the remains of an ancient civilization set in the mouths of caves, abandoned for 7 centuries. You reach the dwellings on a 1-mile moderate hike along which you catch glimpses of the ruins. This walk is an elaborate journey into the past. It winds its way into a narrow canyon, from which you first spot the poetic ruins perched in six caves 180 feet up on the canyon wall, stone shiny and hard as porcelain. Then the ascent begins up innumerable steps and rocks until you’re standing face-to-face with these ancient relics, which offer a glimpse into the lives of Native Americans who lived here from the late 1270s through the early 1300s. Tree-ring dating indicates their residence didn’t last longer than 30 to 40 years.

What’s remarkable about the journey through the cliff dwellings is the depth of some of the caves. At one point, you’ll climb a ladder and pass from one cave into the next, viewing the intricate little rooms (42 total) and walls that once made up a community dwelling. Probably not more than 10 to 15 families (about 40–50 people) lived in the cliff dwellings at any one time. The inhabitants were excellent weavers and skilled potters.

The cliff dwellings were discovered by Anglo settlers in the early 1870s, near where the three forks of the Gila River rise. Once you leave the last cave, you’ll head down again traversing some steep steps to the canyon floor. Pets are not allowed within the monument, but they can be taken on trails within the Gila Wilderness. Be sure to pick up a trail guide at the visitor center.

Essentials

Getting There From Silver City, take NM 15 north 44 miles to the Gila Cliff Dwellings. Travel time from Silver City is approximately 2 hours. You won’t find any gas stations between Silver City and Gila Cliff Dwellings, so plan accordingly. Also know that at the monument, vehicles are permitted on paved roads only.

Visitor Information For more information, contact Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, HC 68, Box 100, Silver City, NM 88061 ( 575/536-9461; www.nps.gov/gicl).

Admission Fees & Hours Admission to the monument is $3 per person, $10 per family with children age 12 and under admitted free. The visitor center, where you can pick up detailed brochures, is open daily from 8am to 5pm Memorial Day to Labor Day and from 8am to 4:30pm the rest of the year. The cliff dwellings are open daily from 8am to 6pm in the summer and from 9am to 4pm the rest of the year.

Seeing the Highlights

Today, the dwellings allow a rare glimpse inside the homes and lives of prehistoric Native Americans. About 75% of what is seen is original, although the walls have been capped and the foundations strengthened to prevent further deterioration. It took a great deal of effort to build these homes: The stones were held in place by mortar, and all the clay and water for the mortar had to be carried by hand up from the stream, as the Mogollon did not have any pack animals. The vigas for the roof were cut and shaped with stone axes or fire.

The people who lived here were farmers, as shown by the remains of beans, squash, and corn in their homes. The fields were along the valley of the west fork of the Gila River and on the mesa across the canyon. No signs of irrigation have been found.

Near the visitor center, about a mile away, the remains of an earlier pit house (a.d. 100–400), built below ground level, and later pit houses (up to a.d. 1000), aboveground structures of adobe or wattle, have been found.

Camping

Camping and picnicking are encouraged in the national monument, with four developed campgrounds. Camping is free and some sites are RV accessible, though there are no hookups. Overnight lodging can be found in Silver City and in the nearby town of Gila Hot Springs, which also has a grocery store, horse rentals, and guided pack trips. For information, contact the visitor center ( 575/536-9461).

Other Adventures in Gila National Forest

Gila National Forest, which offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the Southwest, comprises 3.3 million acres in four counties. Nearly one-fourth of that acreage (790,000 acres) comprises the Gila, Aldo Leopold, and Blue Range wildernesses. Its highest peak is Whitewater Baldy, at 10,892 feet. Within the forest, six out of seven life zones can be found, so the range of plant and wildlife is broad. You may see mule deer, elk, antelope, black bear, mountain lion, and bighorn sheep. Nearly 400 miles of streams and a few small lakes sustain healthy populations of trout as well as bass, bluegill, and catfish. Anglers can head to Lake Roberts, Snow Lake, and Quemado Lake.

Just the Facts For more information on the national forest, contact the U.S. Forest Service, Forest Supervisor’s Office, 3005 E. Camino del Bosque, Silver City, NM 88061 ( 575/388-8201; www.fs.fed.us).

The national forest has 29 campgrounds, all with toilets and six with drinking water. Car and backpack camping are also permitted throughout the forest.

Hiking & Other Activities

Within the forest are 1,490 miles of trails for hiking and horseback riding, and in winter, cross-country skiing. Outside the wilderness areas, trail bikes and off-road vehicles are also permitted. Hiking trails in the Gila Wilderness, especially the 41-mile Middle Fork Trail, with its east end near Gila Cliff Dwellings, are among the most popular in the state and can sometimes be crowded. If you are more interested in communing with nature than with fellow hikers, however, you will find plenty of trails to suit you, both in and out of the officially designated wilderness areas.

Most of the trails are maintained and easy to follow. Trails along river bottoms, however, have many stream crossings (so be prepared for hiking with wet feet) and may be washed out by summer flash floods. It’s best to inquire about trail conditions before you set out. More than 50 trail heads provide roadside parking.

Some of the best hikes in the area are the Frisco Box, Pueblo Creek, Whitewater Baldy, the Catwalk and Beyond, the Middle Fork/Little Bear Loop, and the Black Range Crest Trail. The Gila National Forest contains several wilderness areas that are off-limits to mountain bikes, including the Gila, Aldo Leopold, and the Blue Range Primitive Area. However, cyclists can access quite a few trails. Some to look for are the Cleveland Mine trail, Silver City Loop, Continental Divide, Signal Peak, Pinos Altos Loop, Fort Bayard Historical Trails, and Forest Trail 100.

The Catwalk National Recreation Trail ★ ( 575/539-2481), 68 miles north of Silver City on US 180, then 5 miles east of Glenwood via NM 174, is a great break after a long drive. Kids are especially thrilled with this hike. It follows the route of a pipeline built in 1897 to carry water to the now-defunct town of Graham and its electric generator. About 1⁄4 mile above the parking area is the beginning of a striking 250-foot metal causeway clinging to the sides of the boulder-choked Whitewater Canyon, which in spots is 20 feet wide and 250 feet deep. Along the way, you’ll find water pouring through caves and waterfalls spitting off the cliff side. Farther up the canyon, a suspension bridge spans the chasm. Picnic facilities are near the parking area. There’s a $3 fee per car.

A Shocking Experience

If you’d like to have an electrifying moment or two, plan a visit to the Lightning Field, near Quemado ( 505/898-3335; www.lightningfield.org). An enormous sculpture by American artist Walter De Maria, it consists of 400 stainless-steel poles arranged in a rectangular grid. Its purpose? To attract those most picturesque and deadly bolts. Visitors are welcome May through October but must reserve months in advance.

Other Highlights

The scenic ghost town of Mogollon is 3 1/2 miles north of Glenwood on US 180, and then 9 miles east on NM 159, a narrow mountain road that takes a good 25 minutes to negotiate. The village bears witness to silver and gold mining booms beginning in the late 19th century, and to the disastrous effects of floods and fire in later years. Remains of its last operating mine, the Little Fanny (which ceased operation in the 1950s), are still visible, along with dozens of other old buildings, miners’ shacks, and mining paraphernalia. An art gallery and museum are found along Mogollon’s main street. The movie My Name Is Nobody, starring Henry Fonda, was filmed here.

Cochise, Geronimo, and other Apache war chiefs held forth in these mountains in the late 19th century. Reserve (pop. 389), 100 miles northwest of Silver City, has a few homes, a store, and a bar. A good stop in town is Henry’s Corner, 109 Main St. ( 866/291-2732; www.elfegobacaathenryscorner.com), where you’ll find gas, ice cream, and books, including ones on Elfego Baca, and my own King of the Road.

Elfego Baca—local folk hero

As you make your way on NM 12 into Reserve, a village of some 350 residents with a few charming Old West storefronts, you’ll note its quietness—such a contrast from what Elfego Baca must have encountered in 1884. Back then the 19-year-old boy had heard about atrocities taking place here: A man named El Burro had been castrated by some cowboys from Texas. Meanwhile, farmer Epitacio Martinez had tried to stop the misdeed and was taken outside and used as target practice. He survived, but barely, and was left to nurse four bullet wounds.

Along the main street, Milligan’s Store and Whiskey Bar was full of cowboys shooting up the ceiling. Such behavior gave Elfego his first chance to exercise his self-appointed deputy status. Brandishing a badge he’d found, he arrested a man named Charley McCarthy. In the next few days, Elfego stood up to the bullies. Soon word of his bravado spread, and backup troops came from area ranches.

“He must have had supreme confidence,” says Henry Martinez, owner of the gas station/store Henry’s Corner at the center town. Henry has a private stake in this history: his great-great grandfather was the farmer who took four bullets in an attempt to help El Burro.

This history set Henry on a mission to honor Elfego’s life. “It’s fascinating that one man took such a stand and changed history in the Reserve area,” he says. Elfego’s visit ended in a standoff as he hid out in a jacal—a dilapidated mud hut—while some 80 cowboys shot 4,000 holes in the place. Through the ordeal, two were killed. Elfego, a known sharp shooter, survived by ducking into the jacal’s partly dug-out floor and by the grace of a statue of Our Lady of Santa Ana—which came out unscathed, as did Elfego, after fighting for 33 hours.

To honor the event, Henry, with the help of other community members, acquired funds from the state of New Mexico and hired artist James N. Muir to create a statue. “The accuracy and realism” are what sold Henry on Muir’s work. “Elfego is stepping out of the jacal fully in charge, without a scratch,” he says. The statue stands in the center of town, on the spot that Henry says is “within yards” of the original jacal.