Chapter 12: Southeastern New Mexico

Southeastern New Mexico

Whether you’re an adult or a child, the wonder of nature in this part of the world will inspire you. Here you’ll find Carlsbad Caverns National Park and White Sands National Monument, whose immensity and intricate beauty speak in unique ways to each individual.

Running east of the Rio Grande (the I-25 corridor) and south of I-40, southeastern New Mexico has other sites as well. Along with the natural wonders, this is the home of the fierce Mescalero Apaches and the world’s richest quarter-horse race. Billy the Kid lived and died in southeastern New Mexico in the 19th century, and the world’s first atomic bomb was exploded here in the 20th. From west to east, barren desert gives way to high, forested peaks, snow-covered in winter; to the fertile valley of the Pecos River; and to plains beloved by ranchers along the Texas border.

The main population center in this section of the state is Roswell (pop. 46,000), famous as the purported landing place of an unidentified flying object (UFO). Ruidoso (pop. 10,000), in the mountains between Alamogordo and Roswell, is a booming resort town. Carlsbad (pop. 25,500), 76 miles south of Roswell, and Alamogordo (pop. 36,000), 117 miles west of Roswell, are of more immediate interest to tourists. Other sizable towns are Clovis (pop. 33,000) and Hobbs (pop. 28,500), both on the Texas border, and Artesia (pop. 11,000), between Roswell and Carlsbad, has a pretty restored historic district.

Southeastern New Mexico’s Great Outdoors

This region of the state offers a wealth of outdoor opportunities. To research any of the state parks listed in this section, go to www.nmparks.com.

Biking Several forest roads and single-track trails in this region are favorites with mountain bikers. In the Ruidoso area, near Cloudcroft, the Rim Trail, a 17-mile intermediate trail that offers views of the White Sands, is considered one of the top-10 trails in the nation. To reach the trail, take NM 130 from Cloudcroft to NM 6563, turn right, and look for the Rim Trail signs. The Cloudcroft area offers three other good trails: La Luz Canyon, Silver Springs Loop, and Pumphouse Canyon. For directions, contact the Cloudcroft Ranger Station ( 575/682-2551). The paved road up to Carlsbad Caverns National Park is scenic, and the auto traffic drives slowly, but it’s very hot in the summer.

Bird-Watching Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge ( 575/622-6755; www.fws.gov/southwest), northeast of Roswell, is particularly good for watching migratory waterfowl, and Bluff Springs ( 575/682-2551), south of Cloudcroft, is popular with turkeys and hummingbirds. If you find turkey vultures particularly fascinating, Rattlesnake Springs ( 575/785-2232; www.nature.org), south of Carlsbad, is the place to go.

Boating Boating, water-skiing, jet-skiing, and sailing are permitted at Carlsbad Municipal Park, which runs through town for just over a mile along the west bank of Lake Carlsbad. The lake also has a beach that’s open to swimmers. Brantley Lake State Park ( 575/457-2384), 15 miles north of Carlsbad, is popular with windsurfers who favor its consistent desert winds.

Fishing Bonito Lake and Rio Ruidoso are popular destinations for trout fishing. The scenic Oasis State Park ( 575/356-5331) just north of Portales, also offers fishing.

Golf This region has plenty of golfing opportunities. In Ruidoso, Cree Meadows Country Club, Country Club Drive off Sudderth Drive ( 575/257-2733; www.playcreemeadows.com), is an 18-hole public course. Also public in the Ruidoso area are the 18-hole courses at the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino, 287 Carrizo Canyon Rd. ( 800/545-9011 or 575/464-4100; www.innofthemountaingods.com); and the Links at Sierra Blanca, 105 Sierra Blanca Dr. ( 575/258-5330; www.thelodgeatsierrablanca.com). In Cloudcroft, the 9-hole Lodge at Cloudcroft Golf Course ( 800/395-6343 or 575/682-2566; www.thelodgeresort.com) boasts an elevation of 9,200 feet; it’s one of the highest courses in the world and one of the oldest in the United States. Alamogordo’s Desert Lakes Golf Course ( 575/437-0290; www.desertlakesgolf.com) has views of Sierra Blanca and the Sacramento Mountains.

Hiking More than 225 miles of trails weave a web through the Smokey Bear Ranger District of the Lincoln National Forest. From Ruidoso, a favorite destination of hikers is the White Mountain Wilderness, with nine trails, and the Capitan Mountains Wilderness, with 11 trails. Smokey Bear Ranger District office, 901 Mechem Dr., Ruidoso ( 575/257-4095; www.fs.fed.us/r3/lincoln), has excellent and inexpensive maps of each wilderness area. Monjeau Lookout is a popular destination off Ski Run Road (NM 532). Carlsbad Caverns National Park has an extensive trail system as well (outside the caves, of course).

Horseback Riding Horseback riding is popular in Ruidoso. Try the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino ( 800/545-9011 or 575/464-4100; www.innofthemountaingods.com) or Cowboys Riding Stables ( 575/378-8217; www.cowboysridingstables.com).

Skiing Southern New Mexico’s premier ski resort is Ski Apache ( 575/257-9001 for snow reports, 575/336-4356 for information; www.skiapache.com), only 20 miles northwest of Ruidoso in the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation. Situated on an 11,500-foot ridge of the 12,000-foot Sierra Blanca, the resort boasts a gondola, two quad chairs, five triple chairs, one double chair, a day lodge, a sport shop, a rental shop, a ski school, a first-aid center, four snack bars, and a lounge. Ski Apache has 55 trails and slopes (20% beginner, 35% intermediate, and 45% advanced), with a vertical drop of 1,900 feet and a total skier capacity of 16,500 an hour. Though its location seems remote, a lot of skiers fill this mountain during weekends and holidays. Because the mountain is owned and run by the Apaches, you can experience another culture while skiing. All-day lift tickets cost $51 for adults, $45 for seniors, $43 for teens 13 to 17, and $25 for children 12 and under. The mountain is open Thanksgiving to Easter daily from 8:45am to 4pm. Lift-and-lodging packages can be booked through the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino ( 800/545-9011 or 575/464-4100; www.innofthemountaingods.com).

Alamogordo

Famous for its leading role in America’s space research and military technology industries, Alamogordo (pop. 36,000) achieved worldwide fame on July 16, 1945, when the first atomic bomb was exploded at nearby Trinity Site. Today, it is home of the New Mexico Museum of Space History, White Sands National Monument, and Holloman Air Force Base. Twenty miles east and twice as high, the resort village of Cloudcroft (elevation 8,650 ft.) attracts vacationers to the forested heights of the Sacramento Mountains.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-25 south 87 miles to San Antonio; turn east on US 380, go 66 miles to Carrizozo; then turn south on US 54 for 58 miles (4 hr.). From Las Cruces, take US 70 northeast (1 1/2 hr.). Note: US 70 may be closed for up to 2 hr. during tests on White Sands Missile Range. From El Paso, take US 54 north (1 1/2 hr.).

The nearest major airport is El Paso International. The local airport, Alamogordo–White Sands Regional Airport ( 575/439-4110) does not offer commercial service.

Visitor Information The Alamogordo Chamber of Commerce and visitor center is at 1301 N. White Sands Blvd., Alamogordo, NM 88311 ( 800/826-0294 or 575/437-6120; www.alamogordo.com).

City Layout Alamogordo is on the eastern edge of the Tularosa Valley, at the foot of the Sacramento Mountains. US 54 (White Sands Blvd.) is the main street, extending several miles north and south. The downtown district is a few blocks east of White Sands Boulevard, off 10th Street.

What to See & Do in Alamogordo

In addition to the attractions in Alamogordo itself, also enjoyable is the small, historic village of La Luz, just 3 miles north of Alamogordo. It has attracted a number of resident artists and craftspeople who live, work, and display some of their products for sale. Worth seeing are the cactus-filled park and the small Our Lady of Light Church.

New Mexico Museum of Space History ★★ The New Mexico Museum of Space History comes in two parts: the International Space Hall of Fame and the Clyde W. Tombaugh IMAX Dome Theater. Both are on the lower slopes of the Sacramento Mountains (with stunning views of the Tularosa Basin), 2 miles east of US 54, and just above New Mexico State University’s Alamogordo branch campus.

The Space Hall of Fame occupies the “Golden Cube,” a five-story building with walls of golden glass. Visitors are encouraged to start on the top floor and work their way down. En route, they recall the accomplishments of the first astronauts and cosmonauts, including America’s Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo programs, and the early Soviet orbital flights. Spacecraft and a lunar exploration module are exhibited. The museum also presents an exhibit on the first successful private flight in space—winner of the Ansari X-Prize. Most fun is a simulator in which visitors get to land the Space Shuttle.

At Tombaugh Theater, IMAX projection and Spitz 512 Planetarium Systems create earthly and cosmic experiences on a 2,700-square-foot dome screen.

Located at the top of NM 2001. 877/333-6589 outside New Mexico, or 575/437-2840. Fax 575/434-2245. www.nmspacemuseum.org. Admission to International Space Hall of Fame $6 adults, $5 seniors 60 and older and military, $4 children age 4–12, free for children 3 and under. IMAX Theater $6 adults, $5.50 seniors and military, $4.50 children age 4–12, free for children 3 and under; additional charge for double feature. Ask about their combination ticket. Daily 9am–5pm.

The Nut House

While traveling this area, you’ll likely see signs pointing into thick groves of pecan trees directing you to the Nut House, 32 Ivy Lane, in La Luz ( 575/437-6889). When you step inside, you’ll be greeted by the scent of pecan pie with a hint of chocolate. The airy space with a long, aged-wood bar is packed with local art, much of it made by the artists of the legendary La Luz art colony from the 1960s and some of their children. As well as perusing art, you can sip a latte and eat homemade soups and sandwiches on a lovely patio within the pecan trees. Don’t leave without sampling a piece of apple, peach, or chocolate pie, all laced with pecans. It’s open Tuesday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 4pm.

Toy Train Depot The brainchild of John Koval (whom you’re likely to meet at the door), this is an interesting attraction for train fanatics and laypeople. Koval started the nonprofit museum, housed in a genuine 1898 railroad depot, as a means to celebrate the railroad’s important presence in the area. The museum meanders back through three rooms, each filled with tracks laid along colorful miniature cityscapes and countryside—1,200 feet of track altogether. The highlight is a re-creation of the Alamogordo, Carrizozo, and Cloudcroft train system. Rides through the grounds on 12-inch and 16-inch gauge trains are offered. There’s also a railroad hobby shop.

1991 N. White Sands Blvd. 888/207-3564 or 575/437-2855. www.toytraindepot.homestead.com. Admission $4. Train rides $4. Wed–Sun 12:30–4:30pm.

Something Unusual

Eagle Ranch Pistachio Groves This is a tasty and fun step into the nutty world of pistachio farming. New Mexico’s first and largest pistachio groves, Eagle Ranch offers free 45-minute tours weekdays at 10am and 1:30pm in summer and at 1:30pm in winter. The tour offers a brief history of the pistachio groves and a tour of the shipping and receiving facility, salting and roasting department, and out through the groves. A visitor center with an art gallery displays the work of local artists, and at the gift shop, you can buy pistachio nuts, custom baskets, and a variety of other items, including wines. Try the pistachio-white-chocolate-chunk ice cream!

7288 US 54/70 (5 miles north of Alamogordo). 800/432-0999 or 575/434-0035. www.heartofthedesert.com. Free admission. Gift shop and gallery Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 9am–6pm.

Trinity Site

The world’s first atomic bomb was exploded in this desert never-never land on July 16, 1945. It is strictly off-limits to civilians—except twice a year, on the first Saturday of April and October. A small lava monument commemorates the explosion, which left a crater a quarter mile across and 8 feet deep, and transformed the desert sand into a jade green glaze called “Trinitite” that remains today. The McDonald House, where the bomb’s plutonium core was assembled 2 miles from ground zero, has been restored to its 1945 condition. The site is on the west slope of Sierra Oscura, 90 air miles northwest of Alamogordo. For more information, call the public affairs office of White Sands Missile Range ( 575/678-1134; www.wsmr.army.mil).

Getting Outside

Fifteen miles southeast of Alamogordo via US 54 and Dog Canyon Road, you’ll find Oliver Lee Memorial State Park. Nestled at the mouth of Dog Canyon, a stunning break in the steep escarpment of the Sacramento Mountains, the site has drawn human visitors for thousands of years. Springs and seeps support a variety of rare and endangered plant species, as well as a rich animal life. Hiking trails into the foothills are well marked; the park also offers a visitor center with excellent exhibits on local history, and picnic and camping grounds, with showers, electricity, and a dump station.

Dog Canyon was one of the last strongholds of the Mescalero Apache, and it was the site of battles between Native Americans and the U.S. Cavalry in the 19th century. Around the turn of the 20th century, rancher Oliver Lee built a home near here and raised cattle. Guided tours from the visitor center to Lee’s restored house give a taste of early ranch life in southern New Mexico.

The park is open 24 hours a day; admission is $5 per car. The visitor center is open daily from 9am to 4pm. Guided tours are offered Saturday and Sunday at 3pm, weather permitting. For more information, call 575/437-8284.

Exploring the Surrounding Area

Cloudcroft ★ is a picturesque mountain village of 765 people high in the Sacramento Mountains, surrounded by Lincoln National Forest. Though only about 20 miles east of Alamogordo via US 82, it is twice as high, overlooking the Tularosa Valley from a dizzying elevation of almost 9,000 feet. It was founded in 1899 when railroad surveyors reached the mountain summit and built a lodge for Southern Pacific Railroad workers. Today, the Lodge is Cloudcroft’s biggest attraction and biggest employer (see “Nearby Places to Stay & Dine,” below). Other accommodations are also available in town, as are lots of recreational opportunities and community festivals. For information, contact the Cloudcroft Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 1290, Cloudcroft, NM 88317 ( 866/874-4447 or 575/682-2733; www.cloudcroft.net). It’s in a log cabin in the center of town, on the south side of US 82.

The Sacramento Mountains Historical Museum and Pioneer Village, US 82 east of downtown Cloudcroft ( 575/682-2932), recalls the community’s early days, with several pioneer buildings, historic photos, and exhibits of turn-of-the-20th-century railroad memorabilia, clothing, and other artifacts. Call for hours. Nearby, Lincoln National Forest ( 575/682-2551) maintains the unique La Pasada Encantada Nature Trail, a short footpath from Sleepygrass Campground, off NM 130 south of town, with signs in Braille inviting walkers to touch the various plants, leaves, and trees. Also look for the several-mile moderate trail to the historic Mexican Canyon Railroad Trestle. The trail head is in a U.S. Forest Service picnic area, west of the junction of US 82 and NM 130, where you’ll also find a short walk to an observation point offering spectacular views across White Sands Missile Range and the Tularosa Basin. The picnic area also has tables, grills, drinking water, and restrooms.

National Solar Observatory–Sacramento Peak ( 575/434-7000; www.nso.edu), 18 miles south of Cloudcroft via NM 6563, a National Scenic Byway, attracts astronomers from around the world to study the sun and its effects on our planet. Actually, three observatories are here, with two open to the public for self-guided tours (allow at least 1 hr.), open daily from 8am to 5pm, with more limited hours in winter—so call. The visitor center is open daily March through January from 9am to 5pm, and the rest of the year on Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 5pm. It has exhibits about the observatory and astronomy, as well as some geared toward children, and a gift shop.

If you’d like a tasty meal in this mountain town, head to where the locals eat, Big Daddy’s Diner, 1705 NM 82 ( 575/682-1224; www.bigdaddysdinercloudcroft.com). In a cozy, diner-style atmosphere, the restaurant serves egg and pancake breakfasts; salads, burgers, and sandwiches at lunch; and chicken, seafood, and steak at dinner, with barbecue on weekends. It’s generally open three meals daily, with abbreviated hours during the winter.

If you like outdoor gear and items such as scented candles and tie-dyed clothes, stop at High Altitude, 310 Burro Ave. ( 575/682-1229).

Where to Stay in Alamogordo

All accommodations in Alamogordo are along White Sands Boulevard, the north-south highway through town, and parking is free.

Best Western Desert Aire This motel, remodeled in 2007, provides a comfortable and quiet night’s rest, which is likely why it fills up most every night during Alamogordo’s busier months. The medium-size rooms have contemporary furnishings and comfortable new beds. The bathrooms are small, with an outer sink vanity. Also available are kitchenettes, which contain stoves, ovens, and microwaves. The suites are inexpensive and have 3-foot-deep Jacuzzi tubs. The central point of this motel is the pool, a great place to cool off on hot days, though it can fill up with kids.

1021 S. White Sands Blvd., Alamogordo, NM 88310. 800/565-1988 or 575/437-2110. Fax 575/437-1898. www.bestwestern.com. 99 units. $68–$107 double; $75–$120 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome ($50 deposit). Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi.

Holiday Inn Express ★ This newer hotel on the south end of town provides what you’d expect from this chain—clean, comfortable rooms with a bit of flair. The hotel is steps above the Best Western, though it doesn’t offer even near the competitive price. Rooms are medium size, with high ceilings and come in standards and suites. All are spacious, decorated in natural hues, with comfortable beds, while the bathrooms are medium size with granite countertops. A full, hot breakfast comes with the room.

100 Kerry Ave. 800/465-4329 or 575/434-9773. Fax 575/434-3279. www.hiexpress.com. 80 units. $114 double; $130–$150 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Camping

I recommend camping at White Sands National Monument (see “Camping,” under “White Sands National Monument,” below), though be aware that it is a backcountry experience.

If you’d rather have amenities, try Alamogordo Roadrunner ( 877/437-3003 or 575/437-3003; www.roadrunnercampground.com). It has laundry and grocery facilities as well as a recreation area, swimming pool, playground, shuffleboard, Wi-Fi at some sites, and planned group activities in winter. The campground is on 24th Street in Alamogordo, just east of the US 54/70/82 junction. If you’re looking for something in between, Oliver Lee State Park, 15 miles southeast of Alamogordo via US 54 and Dog Canyon Road ( 575/437-8284; www.nmparks.com), is a good choice, with 44 sites, 10 full hookups, picnic tables, grills, tent sites, a playground, and hiking trails.

Where to Dine in Alamogordo

CJ’s Si Señor ★ NEW MEXICAN Set along the town’s main drag, this cozy spot remains packed during mealtime for good reason: the food is excellent. Saltillo tile floors and arched doorways lend a festive feel to the casual place. Order anything smothered in chile sauce. Tender palates can order a special mild green chile. Lunch and dinner start with complimentary chips and salsa. The combination plate, with a cheese enchilada, beef taco, flauta, Spanish rice, and refried beans is a delicious choice, as is the chicken enchilada plate. Kids have their own menu here.

1480 N. White Sands Blvd. 575/437-7879. Main courses $4.25–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm.

Memories Restaurant ★ AMERICAN Set in a 1907 Victorian home in a residential neighborhood right on the edge of historic downtown, this restaurant serves good food in an old-world setting. Functional tables sit on carpeted floors within what was once the living room and den, or sun porch, creating a casual, comfortable atmosphere. Diners come to sample salads and croissant sandwiches for lunch and grilled steaks and seafood for dinner. At lunch, I recommend the crab salad served over avocado, or the turkey and avocado croissant sandwich. For dinner, a big seller is the prime rib, which comes with bread, a side dish, and vegetable. The grilled shrimp is also good. For dessert, try the chocolate cream pie. Beer and wine are available.

1223 New York Ave. (corner of 13th St.). 575/437-0077. Reservations recommended. Main courses $6–$13 lunch, $11–$27 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm.

Nature’s Pantry ★ DELI/HEALTH FOOD If many days on the road have left your stomach weary, step into this downtown oasis of healthiness. Linda Jungling offers all manner of vitamins and tonics, but she also has a few tables and a juice bar, where locals come to eat baked goods, sandwiches, and salads. At lunchtime, try the chicken salad sandwich with avocado and sprouts served on whole grain bread, or any number of salads, all made with fresh vegetables.

2909 N. White Sands Blvd. 575/437-3037. AE, DISC, MC, V. All menu items under $11. Mon–Sat 8am–7pm.

Nearby Places to Stay & Dine

Casa de Sueños ★ NEW MEXICAN For tasty New Mexican fare, with a good dose of the whimsy of Mexico, check out this fun restaurant about 15 miles north of Alamogordo, outside Tularosa. Decorated with Mexican folk paintings and a country home mural, it exudes a fiesta atmosphere. Outside, the broad patio is lit with little Christmas lights and has chile peppers printed on the tablecloths. For breakfast, try the huevos rancheros. A lunch buffet provides a good sampling of enchiladas and beans. To start your meal, try the guacamole, made with red onions. For an entree, order anything with the green chile sauce, made with fresh chiles and well seasoned. Vegetarian and children’s selections round out the menu. You can order from a variety of beers and wines.

35 St. Francis Dr., Tularosa, NM. 575/585-3494. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $5–$8 breakfast, $7–$15 lunch and dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–8pm; Fri–Sat 11am–8:30pm; Sun 10:30am–8pm.

The Lodge at Cloudcroft ★★ This lodge is an antique jewel of another era. From the grand fireplace in the lobby to the homey Victorian decor in the guest rooms, it exudes gentility and class. Its 9-hole golf course, one of the nation’s highest, challenges golfers across rolling hills between 8,600 and 9,200 feet elevation. Most rooms in the Lodge have views and all are filled with antiques, from sideboards and lamps to mirrors and steam radiators. The standard rooms are small so you may want to reserve one of their suites, which have a bedroom and a sitting room with a fold-out couch. Some suites have Jacuzzi tubs. In 1991, more rooms were added in the form of the Pavilion and the Retreat, which were built adjacent to the Lodge. These are most often rented out in blocks and are less desirable than those in the main hotel. The hotel’s new Spirit of the Mountain Spa offers a variety of massage treatments.

Rebecca’s ( 575/682-2566), the lodge’s restaurant, is named for the resident ghost, believed to have been a chambermaid in the 1930s who was killed by her lumberjack lover. Three meals, plus a midday snack menu, are served daily. Service is friendly and very efficient, and the atmosphere is elegant, with bright sunshine during the day and romantic lighting at night. I especially enjoy breakfast here, where I order eggs Benedict or anything that comes with their biscuits. Lunch brings sandwiches and salads. At dinner try the rack of lamb. The champagne Sunday brunch is a must here, offering a prime rib serving station and an array of side selections.

601 Corona Place (P.O. Box 497), Cloudcroft, NM 88317. 800/395-6343 or 575/682-2566. Fax 575/682-2715. www.thelodgeresort.com. 59 units. $115–$165 double; $175–$335 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; babysitting; concierge; golf course; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; sauna; spa; access to nearby tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer upon request, Wi-Fi.

White Sands National Monument ★★★

Arguably the most memorable natural area in this part of the southwestern U.S., White Sands National Monument preserves the best part of the world’s largest gypsum dune field, an area of 275 square miles of pure white gypsum sand reaching out over the floor of the Tularosa Basin in wavelike dunes. Plants and animals have evolved in special ways to adapt to the bright white environment here. Some creatures have a bleached coloration to match the whiteness all around them, and some plants have developed means for surviving against the smothering pressures of the blowing sands.

The surrounding mountains—the Sacramentos to the east, with their forested slopes, and the serene San Andres to the west—are composed of sandstone, limestone, sedimentary rocks, and pockets of gypsum. Over millions of years, rains and melting snows dissolved the gypsum and carried it down into Lake Lucero. Here the hot sun and dry winds evaporate the water, leaving the pure white gypsum to crystallize. Then the persistent winds blow these crystals, in the form of minuscule bits of sand, in a northeastern direction, adding them to growing dunes. As each dune grows and moves farther from the lake, new ones form, rank after rank, in what seems an endless procession.

The dunes are especially enchanting at sunrise and under the light of a full moon, but you’ll have to camp here to experience this extraordinary sight (see “Camping,” below). If you’re not camping, you’ll probably want to spend only a couple of hours here. Refreshments and snacks can be purchased at the visitor center, along with books, maps, posters, and other souvenirs; however, no dining or grocery facilities are available here.

Essentials

Getting There The visitor center is 15 miles southwest of Alamogordo on US 70/82. (Note: Due to missile testing on the adjacent White Sands Missile Range, this road is sometimes closed for up to 2 hr. at a time.) The nearest major airport is El Paso International, 90 miles away (see “Getting to New Mexico,” in chapter 3).

Visitor Information For more information, contact White Sands National Monument, P.O. Box 1086, Holloman AFB, NM 88330-1086 ( 575/679-2599; www.nps.gov/whsa). When driving near or in the monument, tune your radio to 1610 AM for information on what’s happening.

Admission Fees & Hours Admission is $3 (free for children 15 and under). Memorial Day to Labor Day, the visitor center is open daily from 8am to 7pm, and Dunes Drive is open daily from 7am to sunset. Ranger talks and sunset strolls are given nightly at 7 and 8:30pm during summer. During the rest of the year, the visitor center is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and Dunes Drive is open daily from 7am to sunset.

Seeing the Highlights

The 16-mile Dunes Drive loops through the “heart of sands” from the visitor center. Information available at the center tells you what to look for on your drive. Sometimes the winds blow the dunes over the road, which must then be rerouted. All the dunes are in fact moving slowly to the northeast, pushed by prevailing southwest winds, some at the rate of as much as 20 feet per year.

In the center of the monument, the road itself is made of hard-packed gypsum. (Note: It can be especially slick after an afternoon thunderstorm, so drive cautiously!) Visitors are invited to get out of their cars at established parking areas and explore a bit; some like to climb a dune for a better view of the endless sea of sand. If you’d rather experience the park by hiking than on the long drive, try the Big Dune Trail, a good trail right near the entrance. It takes you on a 45-minute loop along the edges of the dunes and then into their whiteness, ending atop a 60-foot-tall one. In summer, ranger-guided nature walks and evening programs take place in the dunes.

Safety Tips

The National Park Service emphasizes that (1) tunneling in this sand can be dangerous because it collapses easily and could suffocate a person; (2) sand-surfing down the dune slopes, although permitted, can also be hazardous, so it should be undertaken with care, and never near an auto road; and (3) hikers can get lost in a sudden sandstorm if they stray from marked trails or areas.

Camping

I recommend camping here, especially to see the dunes at sunrise or under a full moon. The park closes at dusk, and you’ll have to leave if you’re not camping. It doesn’t reopen until after dawn, so you’ll have no way to see the sunrise unless you camp. White Sands has no facilities, however, so this is strictly a backcountry adventure. Only tent camping is allowed, and you’ll hike 3⁄4 mile to the campsite where you can pitch a tent. On a full moon, the campsites go quickly; you may want to arrive early in the morning. At other times, availability shouldn’t be a problem. You must register at the visitor center, get clearance, and pay a small fee of $3 per person. Call 575/679-2599 for information.

If backcountry camping isn’t your speed, try one of the other campgrounds in nearby Alamogordo and Las Cruces (see the “Where to Stay” sections under “Alamogordo,” earlier in this chapter, and “Las Cruces,” in chapter 11).

Ruidoso ★ & Environs

Ruidoso (most New Mexicans pronounce it “Ree-uh-do-so”) is situated at 6,900 feet in the timbered Sacramento Mountains, the southernmost finger of the Rockies. It is a mountain resort town most famous for the nearby Ruidoso Downs racetrack, where the world’s richest quarter-horse race is run for a $2-million purse. Outdoors lovers, hikers, horseback riders, fishers, and hunters are drawn to the surrounding Lincoln National Forest. Southern New Mexico’s most important ski resort, Ski Apache, is just out of town. The nearby Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation includes the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino. Not far away, the historic village of Lincoln recalls the Wild West days of Billy the Kid. Be aware that during the busiest of months, Ruidoso seems to live up to its Spanish name—which translates as “noisy,” although the name originally referred to the sound of the river running through town.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-25 south 87 miles to San Antonio; turn east on US 380 and travel 74 miles; then head south on NM 37/48 (4 hr.). From Alamogordo, take US 70 northeast via Tularosa (1 hr.). From Roswell, take US 70 west (1 1/2 hr.). No commercial service is available to Sierra Blanca Regional Airport ( 575/336-8111), 17 miles north, near Alto.

Visitor Information The Ruidoso Valley Chamber of Commerce and visitor center is at 720 Sudderth Dr. ( 877/784-3676 or 575/257-7395; www.ruidosonow.com).

Exploring Ruidoso

Gallery Hopping

Many noted artists—among them Peter Hurd, Henriette Wyeth, and Gordon Snidow—made their homes in Ruidoso and the surrounding Lincoln County. Dozens of other art-world hopefuls have followed them here, resulting in a proliferation of galleries in town. Most are open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm, except where noted. Among my favorites are De Carol Designs, 2616 Sudderth Dr. ( 575/257-5024); McGary Studios, a bronze foundry at 2002 Sudderth Dr. ( 575/257-1000; www.davemcgary.com); and Hurd–La Rinconada ( 575/653-4331; www.wyethartists.com), in San Patricio, 20 miles east of Ruidoso on US 70 (see “A Scenic Drive Around the Lincoln Loop,” later in this chapter), open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm. Check out the contemporary masters and historic works of art at Ann Buell Fine Art ★, 2825 Sudderth Dr. ( 575/257-9102; www.annbuellfineart.com).

Shopping

Ruidoso’s best shopping is at 2801 Sudderth Dr., where a cluster of shops fulfill many desires. Slip on sassy sandals and other contemporary shoes at Steppin’ Out ( 575/257-5924). Next door, tots and teens can find upscale duds at Klassy Kids ( 575/257-3857). Meanwhile, wine lovers may want to sample New Mexico varieties and artisanal cheeses at End of the Vine ( 575/630-9463; www.endofthevine.com). And finally, foodies will like the kitchen selection at House of Kelham ( 575/257-2492). Head north on Mechem to Casa Décor, 1214 Mechem Dr. ( 575/258-2912; www.casadecorruidoso.com) to find reasonably priced rustic furnishings as well as a good selection of Mexican tile and artful crosses.

Pamper Yourself

If you want a sweet break from your travels, book a massage or other treatment at the Healing Room at the Lodge at Sierra Blanca, 107 Sierra Blanca Dr. 866/211-7727 or 575/937-2304. Treatments range from Swedish massage to hot-stone therapy to body wraps to salt glows and facials.

Ruidoso Downs

In a stunning setting surrounded by green grass and pine trees, the famous Ruidoso Downs racetrack and Billy the Kid Casino ( 575/378-4431; www.ruidownsracing.com), 2 miles east of Ruidoso on US 70, is home to the world’s richest quarter-horse race, the $2 million All American Futurity, run each year on Labor Day. Many other days of quarter-horse and thoroughbred racing lead up to the big one, beginning in May and running to Labor Day. Post time is 1pm Thursday through Sunday. Grandstand admission is free; call about reserved seating prices.

The on-site casino has all the neon and noise gamblers love. Though you’ll find only slots at this casino (for more variety, head to Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino), bonuses here include simulcast racing on big-screen TVs in the bar and a well-priced buffet with tables overlooking the track. It’s open Saturday through Thursday from 11am to 11pm, and Friday from noon to midnight.

An Interesting Museum

The Hubbard Museum of the American West ★ This museum contains a collection of thousands of horse-related items, including saddles from all over the world, a Russian sleigh, a horse-drawn “fire engine,” and an 1860 stagecoach. Several great American artists, including Frederic Remington and Charles M. Russell, are represented in the museum’s permanent collection. A gift shop has some interesting books and curios.

841 W. US 70, Ruidoso Downs, NM 88346. 575/378-4142. Fax 575/378-4166. www.hubbardmuseum.org. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors and military, $2 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Family Fun

Families enjoy the excitement at Funtrackers Family Fun Center, 101 Carrizo Canyon Rd. ( 575/257-3275; www.funtrackers-ruidoso.net), which offers go-kart courses, bumper boats, bull riding, and miniature golf. Beware: It can be crammed with people midsummer. It’s open Memorial Day to Labor Day from Sunday to Thursday 10am to 9pm and Friday and Saturday 10am to 10pm; from September to May it’s open weekends only, with limited hours.

Spencer Theater for the Performing Arts ★★

The dream of Alto, New Mexico, residents Dr. A. N. and Jackie Spencer, the 514-seat Spencer Theater, on Sierra Blanca Airport Hwy. 220, 4 1/2 miles east of NM 48 ( 888/818-7872 or 575/336-4800; www.spencertheater.com), is a model performance space that cost more than $22 million to construct. Opened in 1997, the theater has drawn such talents as Ottmar Liebert and Chuck Mangione and presented Broadway shows. Free tours are offered at 10am Tuesday and Thursday. Performances take place both weekends and weekdays. The theater runs two seasons year-round, and tickets cost from $10 to $98.

Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation

Immediately south and west of Ruidoso, the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation covers over 460,000 acres (719 sq. miles) and is home to about 4,000 members of the Mescalero, Chiricahua, and Lipan bands of Apaches. Established by order of President Ulysses S. Grant in 1873, it sustains a profitable cattle-ranching industry and the Apache-run logging firm of Mescalero Forest Products.

Seeing the Highlights

Even if you’re not staying or dining here, be sure to visit the Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino, a luxury resort owned and operated by the tribe ; it’s the crowning achievement of Wendell Chino, former president of the Mescalero Apache tribe.

Also on the reservation, on US 70 about 17 miles southwest of Ruidoso, is the Mescalero Cultural Center ( 575/671-4494; www.mescaleroapache.com), open weekdays from 8am to 4:30pm. Photos, artifacts, clothing, crafts, and other exhibits demonstrate the history and culture of the tribe.

St. Joseph’s Apache Mission ★ ( 575/464-4473; www.stjosephmission.org), just off US 70 in Mescalero, on a hill overlooking the reservation, is a grand, stone Romanesque-style structure that stands 103 feet tall and has walls 4 feet thick. Built between 1920 and 1939, the mission church also contains an icon of the Apache Christ, with Christ depicted as a Mescalero holy man, as well as other Apache religious art. Local arts and crafts and religious items are for sale at the parish office. The church is open daily during daylight hours.

A locals’ secret worth discovering is the Old Road Restaurant, 692 Old Road in Mescalero ( 575/464-4674). In a historic adobe home, with tile and wood floors and chile-ristra accents, this restaurant has served delicious New Mexican food for more than 30 years. Try the combination plate. Checks and cash only. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 9pm.

Ruidoso at Night

If you’d like a rollicking night out, check out Mountain Annie’s Dinner Theater ★, 2710 Sudderth Dr. ( 575/257-7982; www.mountainannies.com). Set in a 7,000 square-foot building with chandeliers and red velvet drapes, the dinner theater features a variety of types of performances, but most are music variety shows, with tunes ranging from rock to country. The cost for a beef brisket or chicken dinner is $33 adults and $12 for children. Doors open at 6:30pm; dinner is served at 7pm, and the show begins at 8pm. Children can either watch the show or hang out in the supervised playhouse, free of charge. In an Old West vein, the Flying J Ranch, on NM 48, 1 mile north of Alto ( 888/458-3595 or 575/336-4330; www.flyingjranch.com), offers fun family entertainment and chuck-wagon fare. This ranch is like a Western village, complete with staged gunfights and pony rides for the kids. Gates open at 5:30pm; the gunfight commences at 6:50pm; a hearty chuck-wagon dinner of barbecue beef or chicken is served promptly at 7pm. Then, at 7:50pm, the Flying J Wranglers present a fast-paced stage show with Western music and a world-champion yodeler. Reservations are highly recommended. It costs $24 for ages 13 and up, $14 for ages 4 to 12, and is free for ages 3 and under. It’s open May to Labor Day Monday to Saturday, and Labor Day to mid-October Saturday only.

Dances & Ceremonies

Throughout the year, the Mescalero Cultural Center hosts powwows of colorful dancing and traditional drumming, open to the public and with unrestricted photography. The most accessible to visitors are dances and a rodeo on July 4.

For more information about the reservation, write to the Tribal Office at P.O. Box 227, Mescalero, NM 88340 or call 575/671-4494.

Lincoln Historic District ★★

One of the last historic yet uncommercialized 19th-century towns remaining in the American West, the tiny community of Lincoln lies 37 miles northeast of Ruidoso on US 380, in the valley of the Rio Bonito. Only some 50 people live here today, but it was once the seat of the largest county in the United States, and the focal point of the notorious Lincoln County War of 1878–79. Though the town contains a number of museums today, a single ticket will get you entry into all of them.

The bloody Lincoln County War was fought between various ranching and merchant factions over the issue of beef contracts for nearby Fort Stanton. A sharpshooting teenager named William Bonney—soon to be known as “Billy the Kid”—took sides in this issue with “the good guys,” escaping from the burning McSween House after his employer and colleague were shot and killed. Three years later, after shooting down a sheriff, he was captured in Lincoln and sentenced to be hanged. But he shot his way out of his cell in what is now the Lincoln County Courthouse Museum, which still has a hole made by a bullet from the Kid’s gun. Of special note here is a letter handwritten by Billy defending himself to Governor Lew Wallace.

Many of the original structures from that era have been preserved and restored by the Museum of New Mexico, Partners in Preservation of Lincoln State Monument, and the Lincoln County Historical Society.

Just the Facts At the Visitor Center, on NM 380 on the east side of town ( 575/653-4025; www.nmmonuments.org), exhibits explain the role in Lincoln’s history of Apaches, Hispanics, Anglo cowboys, and the black Buffalo Soldiers, and detail the Lincoln County War. A 12-minute film on Lincoln history is presented in an old-fashioned theater. Start your visit here and learn more from docents at the various museums. Also of note in the town is the round Torreon fortress, which served as protection from Apache raids; the Montaño Store, once a saloon and boarding house; Dr. Wood’s House, filled with pre-1920s furnishings, books, and instruments; and the Tunstall Store Museum, with late-19th- and early-20th-century clothes, hardware, and butter churns.

An annual folk pageant, The Last Escape of Billy the Kid, has been presented outdoors since 1949 as a highly romanticized version of the Lincoln County War. It’s staged Friday and Saturday night and Sunday afternoon during the first full weekend in August as part of the Old Lincoln Days celebration. The festival also includes living-history demonstrations of traditional crafts, musical programs, and food booths throughout the village.

The historic district is open year-round daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm. Admission is $5 for adults (which includes entry to six buildings during summer and four in winter); free for children 16 and under.

For lodging recommendations in Lincoln, see “Where to Stay in & Around Ruidoso,” below. The village has three dining options. Set in an 1883 building, the Dolan House, 826 Calle la Placita ( 575/653-4670; dolansoutpost@yahoo.com), serves home-style soups and sandwiches Friday to Tuesday 9am to 3:30pm and Friday 5 to 8pm. Try their pecan pie. Just down the road, the Wortley Hotel & Dining Room, on US 380 in the center of Lincoln ( 575/653-4300; www.wortleyhotel.com), offers another historic property dining experience. The restaurant serves hearty egg and pancake breakfasts and lunches that include burgers, salads, and New Mexican food. The restaurant is open during summer Wednesday to Sunday 8am to 3pm, with abbreviated hours in spring and fall. Closed in winter. One mile west of Lincoln on US 380, the Laughing Sheep Farm Restaurant ( 575/653-4041) serves their own farm-grown produce and meats in a sunny room with rural surroundings. It’s open during the warmer months, Wednesday to Sunday from 11am to 3pm and, with reservations only, Friday and Saturday from 5 to 8pm.

If you would like to shop in Lincoln, stop in at Ran La Roca Glass, 3112 US 380 ( 575/653-4219; ranlaroca@pvtn.net). The artists, often working in back, make enameled-glass jewelry, sculptures, and vessels. Down the street, La Placita, on US 380 ( 575/653-4047; www.lincolnnewmexico.com), sells rugs, blankets, and wall hangings made by owner Ralph Dunlap.

Where to Stay in & Around Ruidoso

If you’re looking for a budget stay in Ruidoso, the Motel 6 ( 800/466-8356; www.motel6.com), on the outskirts of town has reliably clean rooms. In recent years Ruidoso has landed many other major chains including Ramada, La Quinta, Comfort Inn, and Days Inn.

In Town

Best Western at Pine Springs Nestled within ponderosa pines well above Ruidoso Downs, this inn offers the consistency of a Best Western, with a few extras. Rooms are fairly spacious, set either motel-style so you can park nearby, or in a grassy courtyard, which I recommend, all only minutes from town and a stone’s throw from the racetrack and casino. Rooms are decorated in soft colors and have comfortable beds and medium-size, clean bathrooms. Though they could use some updating, as could the cracked sidewalks, the setting and price still recommend this place. The inn’s two best points: It’s located away from the town of Ruidoso, which during busy months is unbearably noisy, and it has a lovely outdoor pool with a view of the mountains.

1420 US 70, Ruidoso Downs, NM 88346. 800/237-3607 or 575/378-8100. Fax 575/378-8215. www.bestwestern.com. 100 units. $81–$139 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets (no charge). Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool (summer only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi (in downstairs rooms).

Escape Resort ★★★ For years Ruidoso has needed a really upscale lodging, one with elegance and functionality. Now it has one. This cluster of five casitas, set within town a little off the main road and surrounded by pine trees, offers accommodations of a level one would find in Santa Fe. They come in one- and two-bedroom sizes and have large rooms with high ceilings, marble counters, fine linens, contemporary furnishings in muted earth tones, gas fireplaces fashioned from stacked sandstone, and private patios. The bathrooms have a Jacuzzi tub and steam-shower. All have fully equipped kitchens with stainless-steel appliances. Calling this a “resort” is a bit of a stretch, since it has few amenities, but all else here is stellar.

1016 Mechem Rd., Ruidoso, NM 88345. 888/762-8551 or 575/258-1234. www.theescaperesort.com. 5 units. $229 1-bedroom casita; $279 2-bedroom casita. Rates include complimentary wine. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Access to nearby golf course; outdoor pool (summer only). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi.

Hotel Ruidoso ★★ This new hotel, set in the center of town within walking distance of shopping and entertainment, but a little back from the main street and surrounded by pines, offers clean, contemporary rooms with a bit of flair. Currently, it’s one of the town’s best values. It’s a big, blocky looking three-story building, but it has well-appointed accommodations. Rooms are medium size and come in standards or minisuites. All have comfortable beds and are decorated in earth tones, with medium-size bathrooms with granite sinks and tile work in the bathrooms. Minisuites have a fold-out couch, a good option for small families. Service is good. The breakfast room is a comfortably airy place to spend the morning.

110 Chase St. 866/734-5197 or 575/257-2007. Fax 575/257-2008. www.hotelruidoso.net. 55 units. $79–$99 weekdays; $119–$169 weekends. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi.

Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino ★★ What’s most impressive about this resort is its location, set on a grassy slope above a mountain lake on the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation, 3 1/2 miles southwest of Ruidoso. It’s built in the style of a Lake Tahoe casino, with glossy gaming rooms, a variety of restaurants, and a golf course. Though the architecture has a cool modernity, the rooms are comfortable with luxurious touches. You’re greeted outside by an impressive Crown Dancer fountain, and inside by banks of windows looking out on the lake. The rooms come in a few sizes, though standard ones are fairly spacious, all with quality bedding, comfortable beds, and medium-size bathrooms. I recommend paying a little more for a lakeside view. Wendell’s, with a mountain and lake view, features steak and seafood, with extensive wine offerings. The resort also has a sports bar, a nightclub with live music Friday and Saturday nights, and a casino with more than 1,000 slot machines and 34 table games.

287 Carrizo Canyon Rd., Mescalero, NM 88340. 800/545-9011 or 575/464-7777. www.innofthemountaingods.com. 273 units. $129–$209 forest-view double, $169–$289 lake-view double; $269–$349 suite. Golf and ski packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; golf course; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

The Lodge at Sierra Blanca ★★ Surrounded by a golf course and plenty of quiet, this hotel offers clean, reliable rooms in a picturesque setting. However, if you find convention traffic daunting, you’ll want to ask what’s scheduled at the next-door convention center before reserving. When I visited, the hotel was quiet and serene. The lobby centers around an Anasazi-style stacked sandstone fireplace, creating an elegance that carries into the rooms. The rooms are medium size, decorated in a contemporary Southwestern style, with comfortable beds and medium-size baths. The suites, which are large, have sofa beds, fireplaces, and balconies. Many of the rooms have two-person Jacuzzi tubs. The hotel offers golf packages.

107 Sierra Blanca Dr., Ruidoso, NM 88345. 866/211-7727 or 575/258-5500. Fax 575/258-2419. www.thelodgeatsierrablanca.com. 120 units. $149–$189 double; $169–$199 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Take Mechem Dr. 5 min. north of Sudderth. Pets allowed ($50 fee). Amenities: Golf course; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in most), hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi.

Ruidoso Lodge Cabins ★ This 1950s cabin complex ranks as one of the quaintest accommodations in the Ruidoso area. Set on the banks of the Ruidoso River, these cabins have knotty-pine walls and small rooms decorated with quilts and some antiques. All cabins are very clean, with full kitchens, small bathrooms, and porches with gas grills. My favorite, newly remodeled, is #6, right on the river and with a fireplace and Jacuzzi tub. Newer units adjacent to these, the Riverside Cottages ★★, where kids aren’t welcome, are more upscale, decorated in a country inn style, with vaulted ceilings and in-room Jacuzzis. Though the road passing close to the cabins can prove noisy, it quiets down at night. During the day, the river is a nice spot to fish (for trout) or simply watch the minnows swim by. The lodge restricts outside visitors in order to keep the grounds quiet for all guests. If you’re looking for complete quiet, ask about their new Hidden Canyon ★★, three cabins on 50 acres of forested land.

300 Main Rd., Ruidoso, NM 88345. 800/950-2510 or 575/257-2510. www.ruidosolodge.com. 23 cabins. Sept–June $99–$189 double; July–Aug and major holidays $139–$209 double. Ask about midweek specials. DISC, MC, V. Children not permitted in Riverside Cottages or Hidden Canyon. In room: TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi.

In Lincoln: A Few Historic Lodgings

Ellis Store and Co. Country Inn ★ With part of this house dating from 1850, this is believed to be the oldest existing residence in Lincoln County, and as a B&B, it gives visitors a real taste of 19th-century living but with most of today’s luxuries. The house has plenty of history. Billy the Kid spent several weeks here, although somewhat unwillingly, according to court records that show payment of $64 for 2 weeks’ food and lodging for the Kid and a companion held under house arrest.

Three rooms in the main house are a step back into the 1800s, with wood-burning fireplaces or stoves providing heat, antique furnishings, and handmade quilts. The separate Mill House, built of adobe and hand-hewn lumber in the 1880s, isn’t quite as cozy as the main house, but it definitely offers an Old West feel.

US 380 (mile marker 98, P.O. Box 15), Lincoln, NM 88338. 800/653-6460 or 575/653-4609. 8 units, 4 with private bathroom. $89–$119 double. Rates include gourmet breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant by reservation only. In room: No phone.

Wortley Hotel ★ Built in 1872, this restored hotel offers frontier-style rooms and excellent service. A key locale in the Lincoln County War, this hotel exudes history. A broad front porch is a great place to lounge in the afternoons. The rooms are basic but comfortable and sweetly decorated, with hardwood floors, fireplaces, antique furniture, queen beds, and small bathrooms with showers. A common room has a television. The dining room, with oak tables, a fireplace, and sun-porch, is a nice place to lounge over one of the tasty meals served here. Open spring through fall.

US 380, Lincoln, NM 88338. 575/653-4300. www.wortleyhotel.com. 5 rooms. $95 double. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome ($10 fee). Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone, Wi-Fi.

In San Patricio

Sentinel Ranch Guest Homes ★★ About 20 miles east of Ruidoso on the 2,500-acre Sentinel Ranch, these attractive casitas are part of the Hurd–La Rinconada Gallery, which displays the work of well-known artists Peter and Michael Hurd, Henriette Wyeth Hurd, N. C. Wyeth, and Andrew Wyeth.

Units available are two historic one-bedroom casitas, built in the early part of the 20th century, and three new and much larger units. Of the casitas, Orchard House is my favorite; it sits on the edge of an apple orchard and is furnished in weathered Southwestern antiques. Both of the larger units are elegant, especially La Helenita, a pitched-roofed adobe house that’s large enough for two families. All also have fireplaces and comfortable living areas and are decorated with antiques, primitives, and art by the Hurd-Wyeth family. These casitas serve as good bases for families that enjoy having a kitchen.

NM 70 (mile marker 281), San Patricio, NM 88348. 800/658-6912 or 575/653-4331. Fax 575/653-4218. www.wyethartists.com. 5 units. $140–$410 per casita. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets welcome (some limitations; $20/day). Amenities: Access to e-mail and fax at gallery. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, kitchen.

A Silver Dollar Dinner ★

One of the region’s most cherished relics has been restored. Tinnie Silver Dollar Steakhouse and Saloon, on US 70, 43 miles west of Roswell and 28 miles east of Ruidoso ( 575/653-4425; www.tinniesilverdollar.com), offers excellent food and fine accommodations. The elegant 1870s Victorian structure provides a perfect backdrop for frontier-style dining. A meal here might start with coconut shrimp and move on to a filet mignon with green-chile au gratin potatoes or roasted chicken with mashed potatoes and light gravy. Tinnie also serves Sunday champagne brunch 10am to 3pm, including such traditional favorites as eggs Benedict and prime rib. The steakhouse is open Monday to Thursday from 5 to 9pm, and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10pm, with the saloon opening at 4pm. While eating, enjoy the view of the gardens and fountain from the veranda and the original Peter Hurd paintings that hang in each room of the restaurant.

The same location has a deli (Mon–Sat 10am–9pm and Sun 10am–8pm) offering packaged liquor sales, a gift shop, and two suites for overnight guests. The suites range in price from $89 to $175, depending on the season.

Camping

Lincoln National Forest has more than a dozen campgrounds in the region; four of them are within the immediate area. The Smokey Bear Ranger Station, 901 Mechem Dr., Ruidoso ( 575/257-4095), is open Memorial Day to Labor Day Monday through Saturday from 7:30am to 4:30pm, and the same hours Monday through Friday the rest of the year.

Where to Dine in & Around Ruidoso

In Town

Expensive

Willmon’s Prime Grille ★★ STEAK/SEAFOOD This restaurant at the center of town offers a relaxing retreat from the bustle of the main drag. In a cozy atmosphere of earth tones accented with comfy bancos along the walls, Willmon’s serves elegant contemporary American cuisine. Service is good. For a starter, you might try the jumbo lump crab cakes served with Key lime mustard sauce. For an entree I recommend any of the steaks, served with a variety of topping options including a porcini mushroom or au poivre sauce. All entrees come with one side, which for the price in this part of the state is a little skimpy. Choices include baked potato, mac ’n Gruyère cheese, and asparagus. Willmon’s wine list won the Wine Spectator Award in 2009.

2523 Sudderth Dr. 575/257-2954. www.ruidosofinedining.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$45. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–9pm; Sun 5:30–8pm.

Moderate

Cattle Baron ★ SEAFOOD/STEAK This is the place to go if you really have an appetite. It’s a casually elegant restaurant, part of a chain with six locations around the Southwest, that may not serve the best steaks and seafood you’ve tasted, but still provides good-quality food. It’s a casual restaurant decorated in an opulent Western style with lots of burgundy upholstery and brass. Often the place is busy and festive, so it’s not ideal for a romantic getaway. Service is efficient and friendly. For lunch, try the turkey-and-avocado sandwich or the teriyaki kabob. For dinner, I usually order the filet mignon or the scampi. An extensive salad bar dominates the main dining room, and a comfortable lounge sits near the entryway.

657 Sudderth Dr. 575/257-9355. www.cattlebaron.com. Reservations recommended for 6 or more. Main courses $7.50–$10 lunch, $9–$40 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

Texas Club Grill & Bar ★ SEAFOOD/STEAK Hidden away and somewhat hush-hush, this steakhouse isn’t really a club, but because it advertises only by word of mouth, it has an exclusive quality, accented by plenty of Texas twang in the air and longhorns hanging on the walls. The place’s secrets are a hometown friendliness and steaks hand-rubbed with signature seasonings. The dining room, which overlooks a small lake, has comfy booths and sturdy chairs. It’s a lively place with a broad menu, including many cuts of beef and other dishes, such as chicken, shrimp, pasta, and salads. My favorite dish is the filet, and my mom’s is the jumbo charbroiled shrimp, both served with hot rolls and a choice of potato, pasta, or vegetable. Service is efficient. Also on-site is a lounge with a dance floor, where a DJ spins music every night the place is open, and live music often plays on weekends.

212 Metz Dr. 575/258-3325. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Thurs and Sun 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm. From Mechem Dr., turn east on Cree Meadows Dr.

Inexpensive

Casa Blanca ★ NEW MEXICAN This is a real locals’ favorite for the margaritas and fun New Mexican food. You can count on a good meal here, made with fresh ingredients. The decor is casual—four rooms in a sprawling house on a hill within town, each with brick or tile floors and colorful art on the walls. The garden room and patio are my choices. All of them can get a little noisy from the many kids who like the menu selections here. Your efficient and friendly server will start you out with complimentary chips and salsa. The best bet here is the chicken enchiladas with sour cream, or the beef or chicken fajitas. Recently I enjoyed a tasty habañero-blackened chicken. Salads and burgers are also available. For dessert? Try the chocolate flan cake.

501 Mechem Dr. 575/257-2495. Main courses $7–$17. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 7am–9pm; Fri–Sat 7am–10pm; Sun 7am–8pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Cornerstone Bakery and Café ★ BAKERY/CAFE In this cafe on the east side of town, amid yellow walls covered with nature scenes, diners eat hearty breakfasts while sipping espresso and cappuccino. During breakfast, this place can get crowded, serving omelets and eggs Benedict to locals and travelers. Lunch is equally bustling, with offerings such as quiche, an almond-chicken salad croissant, or one of their daily specials. This might include a pulled pork sandwich on green chile cheddar bun. All the breads and pastries are baked fresh daily including a delicious chocolate cream pie.

359 Sudderth Dr. (3 miles east of downtown). 575/257-1842. www.cornerstonebakerycafe.com. Most menu items under $10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–2pm (3pm in summer).

Hummingbird Tearoom ★ AMERICAN If you’re looking for a light lunch, head to this little room pinched into a corner of a small strip mall in the center of town. Though you won’t find anything extravagant on the menu, everything is well prepared and tasty. I’ve had a tuna salad sandwich made with sweet pickles the way my mother makes them. You can also order their daily frittata, made with cheese and various types of vegetables. A kid’s menu features such favorites as a PB&J and macaroni and cheese. During warm months, their patio offers a nice refuge.

2306 Sudderth Dr., Village Plaza. 575/257-5100. Main courses $5–$9. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm.

Sacred Grounds Coffee ★★ CAFE In a contemporary space with stainless steel tables and big windows, this cafe serves excellent organic and fair-trade coffees including lattes, espressos, and also chai tea. The often-present owner makes pastries, quiches, soups, and sandwiches. With free Wi-Fi, it’s a good place to hang out.

2825 Sudderth Dr., Ste. B. 575/257-2273. All menu items under $8. MC, V. Mon–Sat 6:30am–6pm; Sun 8am–2pm.

Village Buttery ★★ LIGHT FARE You’ll likely be greeted by an enthusiastic, “Hi, darlin’,” when you step into this little place on the east end of town, an indication of homestyle food served here. Run by a covey of kind women, it is a cozy place decorated with tile-topped tables and local art. A broad roadside patio is popular in the warmer months. The Buttery serves a variety of soups, salads, sandwiches, and quiches, along with house-baked pies. Most recently, I enjoyed a chicken salad sandwich with rotini pasta (broccoli, celery, feta cheese, and olives with a broccoli-and-raspberry walnut vinaigrette). Their tomato-basil soup is also good. For something different, try a piece of their signature buttermilk pie.

2107 Sudderth Dr. 575/257-9251. www.thevillagebuttery.com. All menu items under $10. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10:30am–2:30pm.

A Scenic Drive Around the Lincoln Loop

An enjoyable way to see many of the sights of the area while staying in Ruidoso is on a 1- or 2-day 162-mile loop tour. Heading east from Ruidoso on US 70, about 18 miles past Ruidoso Downs, is the small community of San Patricio, where you’ll find (watch for signs) the Hurd–La Rinconada Gallery ( 575/653-4331; www.wyethartists.com). Late artist Peter Hurd, a Roswell native, flunked out of West Point before studying with artist N. C. Wyeth and marrying Wyeth’s daughter, Henriette, eventually returning with her to New Mexico. This gallery shows and sells works by Peter Hurd, Henriette Wyeth, their son Michael Hurd, Andrew Wyeth, and N. C. Wyeth. Many of the works capture the ambience of the landscape in the San Patricio area. In addition to original works, signed reproductions are available. The gallery is open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday from 10am to 4pm. Several rooms and guesthouses are also available by the night or for longer periods ().

From San Patricio, continue east on US 70 for 4 miles to the community of Hondo, at the confluence of the Rio Hondo and Rio Bonito, and turn west onto US 380. From here, it’s about 10 miles to Lincoln, a fascinating little town that is also a National Historic Landmark (see “Lincoln Historic District,” earlier in this chapter). From Lincoln, continue west on US 380 about a dozen miles to Capitan and Smokey Bear Historical Park, 118 Smokey Bear Blvd. ( 575/354-2748; www.smokeybearpark.com), open daily from 9am to 5pm. Smokey, the national symbol of forest fire prevention, was found near here as an orphaned cub by firefighters in the early 1950s. Admission to this park is $2 for adults, $1 for children age 7 to 12, and free for children 6 and under. The park has exhibits on Smokey’s rescue and life at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C.; fire prevention; and forest health. Visitors can also stop at Smokey’s grave and explore a nature path that represents six vegetation zones of the area. If you’d like to stay in Capitan, check out Capitan Cabins, 321 3rd St. ( 575/354-6010; www.capitancabins.com), which has well-appointed cabins on one of the town’s back streets.

No Scum Allowed

In the “ghost town” of White Oaks, the No Scum Allowed Saloon ( 575/648-5583; www.noscumallowedsaloon.com) sits in an atmospheric 1880s brick building, with signed dollar bills plastered to the ceiling and vintage license plates nailed all over the walls. While there, ask the owner, Tony Marsh, how he got the place. You’re in for many laughs. On NM 349 near Carrizozo, it’s well worth a stop to have refreshments and see the art town of White Oaks. Open most weekends.

Heading west from Capitan about 20 miles takes you to Carrizozo, the Lincoln County seat since 1912. One of the best green-chile cheeseburgers in the Southwest can be found at the Outpost ( 575/648-9994), 415 Central Ave. They’re served in a basket, with fries if you’d like. Inside this dark, cool bar/restaurant, you’ll find cowboys and farmers chowing under the gaze of bison and deer heads. If you’d like a light lunch or latte, stop in at La Brewja Café, 113 Central Ave. ( 575/648-3090), a fun joint with free Wi-Fi and a guest computer. Look for breakfast burritos, soups, salads, sandwiches, and quiches. The cafe doesn’t take itself too seriously, as they advertise their “hours of create chaos” to be Monday to Friday 7am to 4pm.

From there, take 2nd Street east to 12th Street, where five lively galleries have opened up in the historic district. Especially look for Gallery 408, 408 12th St. ( 575/648-2598; www.gallery408.com). Also of note is the Carrizozo Heritage Museum, 103 12th St. ( 575/648-2102; www.carrizozochamber.org—click on businesses, then museums). It features displays on the history of this small railroad town and Lincoln County, and is open Friday and Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Continue west on US 380 for 4 miles to Valley of Fires Recreation Area ( 575/648-2241), where you’ll find what is considered one of the youngest and best-preserved lava fields in the United States. Among the black lava formations is a .8-mile self-guided nature trail, which is well worth the walk. Part of it is wheelchair accessible. You’ll discover a strange new landscape that at first glance appears inhospitable but really is rich with plant life and wildlife. Be sure to walk far enough to see the 400-year-old juniper wringing itself from the black stone. A small visitor center and bookstore is in the park campground. Admission is $3 per person or $5 per car for day use, and camping costs $7 to $18. The park is open year-round.

To continue the loop tour, return 4 miles to Carrizozo, turn south onto US 54, and go about 28 miles to the turnoff to Three Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Area ( 575/525-4300), about 5 miles east on a paved road. Some 20,000 individual rock-art images are here, carved by Mogollon peoples who lived in the area centuries ago. A trail about .8 mile long links many of the most interesting petroglyphs; and the view surrounding the area, with mountains to the east and White Sands to the southwest, is outstanding. The park also includes the partially excavated ruins of an ancient Native American village, including a multiroom adobe building, pit house, and masonry house that have been partially reconstructed. Administered by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, the park has facilities for picnicking and camping. The day-use fee is $2 per vehicle. Overnight camping is $10. The U.S. Forest Service also has a campground in the area, about 5 miles east via a gravel road.

From the recreation area, return 5 miles to US 54 and continue south about 15 miles to Tularosa Vineyards ( 575/585-2260; www.tularosavineyards.com), which offers tastings daily from noon until 5pm. Tours by appointment. Using all New Mexico grapes, the winery is especially known for its award-winning reds. Wines can be purchased by the bottle, with prices ranging from $10 to $25. (Note: A fun pastime while traveling in this area is to read Tularosa by Michael McGarrity. Set in the Tularosa Basin, it’s a thrilling mystery about the White Sands Missile Range and Spanish gold.)

Continuing south from the winery, drive about 2 miles to Tularosa and turn east onto US 70, which you take for about 16 miles to the village of Mescalero on the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation. From US 70, take the exit for the Bureau of Indian Affairs and follow the signs to the imposing St. Joseph’s Apache Mission (see “Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation,” earlier in this chapter). After you return to US 70, it’s about 19 miles back to Ruidoso.

Roswell

Best known as a destination for UFO enthusiasts and conspiracy theorists, Roswell has become a household name thanks to old Mulder and Scully. And even if you’re not glued to your set for reruns of The X-Files, you may remember Roswell as the setting for major scenes from the 1996 blockbuster Independence Day. Government cover-ups, alien autopsies, and cigarette-smoking feds . . . come along as we venture into the UFO capital of the world.

The Incident at roswell

In July 1947, something “happened” in Roswell. What was it? Debate still rages. On July 8, 1947, a local rancher named MacBrazel found unusual debris scattered across his property. The U.S. military released a statement saying the debris was wreckage from a spaceship crash. Four hours later, however, the military retracted the statement, claiming what fell from the sky was “only a weather balloon.” Most of the community didn’t believe the story, although some did suspect that the military was somehow involved—Robert Goddard had been working on rockets in this area since the 1930s, and the Roswell Air Base was nearby. Eyewitnesses to the account, however, maintain the debris “was not of this world.”

Theorists believe that the crash actually involved two spacecraft. One disintegrated, hence the debris across the MacBrazel ranch, and the other crash-landed, hence the four alien bodies that were also claimed to have been discovered.

UFO believers have remained dissatisfied with the U.S. Air Force’s weather balloon story and have insisted on an explanation for the “alien bodies.” The most recent comment from the Air Force came in 1997, 2 weeks before the 50th anniversary of the “crash.” The Air Force said that the most likely explanation for the unverified alien reports was that people were simply remembering and misplacing in time a number of life-size dummies dropped from the sky during a series of experiments in the 1950s.

The main place to go in Roswell to learn more about the incident is the International UFO Museum and Research Center ( 575/625-9495; www.roswellufomuseum.com), in the old Plains Theater on Main Street. Staffers will be more than happy to discuss the crash and the alleged military cover-up. As well as displaying an hour-by-hour timeline of the “incident,” the museum has photographs of bizarre and elaborate crop circles, and a variety of films about paranormal experiences. A gift shop sells all manner of little green men and related books. The museum is open daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is $5 for adults, $2 for those 5 to 15, and free for kids 4 and under.

Roswell hosts a UFO Festival every year during the first week in July. Some of the events include guest speakers, celebrity appearances, an Alien Village, and parade. For details on the event, call 888/767-3378 or visit www.roswellufofestival.com.

—Su Hudson

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take I-40 east 59 miles to Clines Corners; turn south on US 285, and travel 140 miles to Roswell (4 hr.). From Las Cruces, take US 70 east (4 hr.). From Carlsbad, take US 285 north (1 1/2 hr.).

Roswell Airport, at Roswell Industrial Air Center on South Main Street ( 575/347-5703), is served commercially by American Eagle Airlines ( 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), directly from Dallas, Texas, twice daily.

Visitor Information The Roswell Chamber of Commerce is at 131 W. 2nd St. (P.O. Box 70), Roswell, NM 88202 ( 575/623-5695; www.roswellnm.org). The Roswell Convention and Visitors Center is at 912 N. Main ( 575/624-6860).

Seeing the Sights

Historical Society for Southeast New Mexico The handsome mansion that houses this historical collection is as much a part of the museum as the collection itself. A three-story, yellow-brick structure, it was built between 1910 and 1912 by rancher J. P. White. Its gently sweeping rooflines and large porches reflect the prairie style of architecture made popular by Frank Lloyd Wright. The White family lived here until 1972; today, this home, on the National Register of Historic Places, is a monument to early-20th-century lifestyles. First- and second-floor rooms, including the parlor, bedrooms, dining room, and kitchen, have been restored and furnished with early-20th-century antiques. The second floor has a gallery of changing historic exhibits, from fashions to children’s toys. The third floor, once White’s private library, now houses the Pecos Valley Collection and the center’s archives. A gift shop sells books and other gift items.

200 N. Lea Ave. (at W. 2nd St.), Roswell, NM 88201. 575/622-8333. Fax 575/623-8746. www.hssnm.net. Admission by donation. Daily 1–4pm.

Roswell Museum and Art Center ★ This highly acclaimed small museum is a good place to stop in order to get a sense of this area before heading out to explore. The art center contains an excellent collection of works by Peter Hurd and his wife, Henriette Wyeth, many of which depict the gentry-ranching lifestyle in this area. You’ll also find works by Georgia O’Keeffe, Ernest Blumenschein, Joseph Sharp, and others famed from the early-20th-century Taos and Santa Fe art colonies. The museum has an early historical section, but its pride and joy is the Robert Goddard Collection, which presents actual engines, rocket assemblies, and specialized parts developed by Goddard in the 1930s, when he lived and worked in Roswell. Goddard’s workshop has been re-created for the exhibit.

100 W. 11th St., Roswell, NM 88201. 575/624-6744. Fax 575/624-6765. www.roswellmuseum.org. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun and holidays 1–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.

Spring River Park and Zoo This lovely park, covering 36 acres on either side of a stream a mile east of the New Mexico Military Institute, incorporates a miniature train, an antique carousel, a large prairie-dog town, a children’s fishing pond, a picnic area, and playgrounds. The zoo features 150 native and exotic animals, as well as some Texas longhorns.

1306 E. College Blvd. (at Atkinson Ave.), Roswell, NM 88203. 575/624-6760. Fax 575/624-6941. Free admission. Summer daily 10am–8pm; winter daily 10am–5:30pm. Gift shop Wed–Sun 1–5pm (summer only).

Getting Outside

Fifteen miles northeast of Roswell, on the Pecos River, at the Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge ★, a great variety of waterfowl—including cormorants, herons, and pelicans—find a winter home. The refuge, reached via US 380 and NM 265 from Roswell, comprises 24,000 acres of river bottomland, marsh, stands of salt cedar, and open range. All told, more than 300 species of birds have been sighted here. You can get information at the headquarters building at the entrance, or contact 575/622-6755; www.fws.gov/southwest. Fall and early winter are the best times to visit.

Bottomless Lakes State Park is a chain of seven lakes surrounded by rock bluffs 16 miles east of Roswell via NM 409, off US 380. It got its name from early cowboys, who tried to fathom the lakes’ depth by plumbing them with lariats. No matter how many ropes they tied together and lowered into the limpid water, they never touched bottom. In truth, though, none of the lakes are deeper than 100 feet. The park offers fishing for rainbow trout, swimming and windsurfing, campsites for trailers or tents, shelters, showers, a dump station, and a concession area with vending machines and paddleboat rentals. The lake is open daily 24 hours; admission is $5 per vehicle. The visitor center is open daily 9am to 6pm Memorial Day to Labor Day, the rest of the year daily 8am to 5pm. For more information, contact 575/624-6058; www.nmparks.com.

Originally built to raise bass and catfish, the Dexter National Fish Hatchery, 1 1/2 miles east of Dexter on NM 190, about 16 miles southeast of Roswell via NM 2, is now a center for the study and raising of 15 threatened and endangered fish species, such as the razorback sucker, Colorado squawfish, and Chihuahuan chub. Year-round, visitors can take self-guided tours among the hatchery’s ponds; from late March to October, the visitor center is open, with exhibits and an aquarium containing endangered fish. The hatchery ( 575/734-5910; www.fws.gov/southwest) is open weekdays from 6:30am to 4pm, and admission is free.

Where to Stay in Roswell

In recent years most major motel chains have opened in Roswell, including Hampton Inn, Holiday Inn Express, Motel 6, and Comfort Suites.

Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott ★ This inn at the center of town offers bright rooms with plenty of amenities. The lobby and breakfast area have a living room feel, and the whole place offers the convenience and good prices one can expect from a Fairfield. Elements such as marble and tile in the bathrooms and a nice pool further enhance the place. The suites offer an interesting angled two-room configuration, with a big TV and a CD player, and the standard rooms are medium size, each with a desk. All rooms have comfortable beds.

1201 N. Main St., Roswell, NM 88201. 800/228-2800 or 575/624-1300. www.marriott.com. 67 units. $139–$169 double. Rates include full hot breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; Wi-Fi (in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, microwave.

Camping

Town and Country RV Park ( 800/499-4364 or 575/624-1833; www.townandcountryrvpark.com), south of Roswell, is your best bet for camping, with some grass and cottonwood and elm trees for shade. The campground has 75 sites, most with full hookups. Prices range from $30 to $35. Tent campers can set up here as well. Bathrooms are clean and convenient, as is the large pool. The campground is at 331 W. Brasher Rd. Head south on Main Street for 3 miles; turn west on West Brasher Road.

Where to Dine in Roswell

Cattle Baron ★ SEAFOOD/STEAK This popular restaurant is always busy during mealtimes. You can usually get a table, however, and they are nicely spaced so that the noise level is minimal. It’s an informal place with a wealthy ranch feel—lots of burgundy and brass. Service is fast and friendly. Many come here just to feast at the salad bar, which is one of the best I’ve seen and includes many potato and pasta dishes, as well as a choice of two soups. Everything is made fresh here—the bread baked in-house, the beef even hand cut by the manager. You can’t go wrong with the steaks, such as the tender filet mignon wrapped in bacon. You can also get dishes such as shrimp scampi at a price that will make you glad for Roswell’s provincialism. The lounge is a comfortable place to come for evening drinks, and there’s a full bar here.

1113 N. Main St. 575/622-2465. www.cattlebaron.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7.50–$10 lunch, $9–$40 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

Farley’s AMERICAN This raucous place can really draw crowds. Folks come for the barnlike atmosphere, where they can throw peanut shells on the floor and scream at TVs. Lots of booths inside and a patio outside please kids and their parents, as does the menu variety. Soups and salads, pizza, sandwiches, and burgers are the big sellers. Entrees such as chicken Alfredo and baby back ribs will fill you up if you want a real meal. Note: On weekend nights and holidays, you’ll have to wait for a table. A full bar is available.

1315 N. Main St. 575/627-1100. Main courses $8–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight or so, depending on the crowd.

Tia Juana’s Mexican Grille & Cantina ★★ NEW MEXICAN On the north end of town, this spot serves tasty New Mexican fare in a festive Mexican cantina ambience. Red chile lights and photos of Oaxaca accent the large dining area, which is made intimate with booths and tables nicely spaced. Service is friendly and on the mark. The food is prepared with fresh ingredients and good chile—the restaurant even makes its own tortillas daily. You can’t go wrong with the enchiladas, served rolled or stacked, or the tacos, served soft or crisp. Kids have plenty of menu options, as well as crayons to draw with, and adults can enjoy a full bar.

3601 N. Main St. 575/627-6113. www.tiajuanas.net. Main courses $8–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

Also Worth a Look: Fort Sumner & Environs

The little town of Fort Sumner, home to 1,250 people, 84 miles north of Roswell via US 285 and NM 20, is important in New Mexico history because it’s the site of Fort Sumner State Monument and the burial place of the notorious Billy the Kid. Stop by if you’re in the vicinity and have some time to spare.

Fort Sumner State Monument ★ ( 575/355-2573; www.nmmonuments.org) recalls a tragic U.S. Army experiment (1864–68) to create a self-sustaining agricultural colony for captive Navajos and Mescalero Apaches. Many still recall the “Long March,” during which some Navajos walked a distance of more than 400 miles. By fall 1864, some 9,000 people were held captive here, site of the Bosque Redondo Reservation. Disaster followed: disease, blighted crops, alkaline water, Comanche raids, and the Navajos’ devastating alienation from their homelands. Some 3,000 Native Americans died here. Part of the fort where the military lived and worked has been reconstructed at the site. A short walking tour takes you to various signposts that explain what was once on the land, illustrated with sad photographs of the dismal conditions. The visitor center (open daily 8:30am–5pm) gives you a good background before you head out to the site. The monument is 7 miles southeast of the modern town, via US 60/84 and NM 272. Admission is $5 for adults, free for children age 17 and under.

Nearby, the Old Fort Sumner Museum ( 575/355-2942) displays artifacts, pictures, and documents. It’s a private enterprise that may not quite be worth the $3.50 admission.

Behind the museum (you don’t have to go through the museum) is the Grave of Billy the Kid, its 6-foot tombstone engraved to “William H. Bonney, alias ‘Billy the Kid,’ died July 16, 1881,” and to two previously slain comrades with whom he was buried. Also in the graveyard is the tomb of Lucien Maxwell, the land czar from the Cimarron area, who purchased Fort Sumner after the military abandoned it.

If you’re curious about the notorious Kid, you can learn more at the Billy the Kid Museum ( 575/355-2380; www.billythekidmuseumfortsumner.com), 1 mile east of downtown Fort Sumner on US 60/84. In operation for over half a century, it contains more than 60,000 relics of the Old West, including some that recall the life of young Bonney himself, such as his rifle. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors 62 and older, $3 for ages 7 to 15, free ages 6 and under.

The Old Fort Days celebration, the second week of June, is Fort Sumner’s big annual event. It includes the World’s Richest Tombstone Race (inspired by the actual theft of Billy’s tombstone, since recovered), 2 nights of rodeo, a country music show, a barbecue, and a parade.

Sumner Lake State Park ( 575/355-2541; www.nmparks.com), 16 miles northwest of Fort Sumner via US 84 and NM 203, is a 1,000-acre property with a campground (with electric and water hookups). Boating, fishing, swimming, and water-skiing are popular recreations.

For more information on the town, contact the Fort Sumner Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 28, Fort Sumner, NM 88119 ( 575/355-7705; www.ftsumnerchamber.com).

Clovis/Portales

Clovis, 110 miles northeast of Roswell via US 70, is a major market center on the Texas border. Founded in 1906 as a railway town, it is now the focus of an active ranching and farming region. The Lyceum Theatre, 409 Main St. ( 575/763-6085), is a significant restoration of a former vaudeville theater; it’s now the city’s center for performing arts. A major rodeo on the national circuit is held the first weekend in June. “Clovis Man,” who hunted mammoths in this region about 10,000 b.c., was first discovered at a site near the city. For more information, contact the Clovis/Curry County Chamber of Commerce ( 575/763-3435; www.clovisnm.org).

Nineteen miles south of Clovis is Portales, a town of 11,000 people that is the home of the main campus of Eastern New Mexico University. On campus are the Roosevelt County Historical Museum ( 575/562-2592; www.enmu.edu—look for “quick links”) of regional ranching history and the Natural History Museum ( 575/562-2753), with wildlife exhibits, including a bee colony. Anthropology and paleontology exhibits are at the Blackwater Draw Archaeological Site and Museum ★ ( 575/562-2202), 7 miles northeast of Portales on US 70 toward Clovis. The museum isn’t much, but the archaeological site draws bone buffs from around the world. Especially notable is the Interpretive Center, where visitors can watch an excavation in progress. The site is on NM 467, 5 miles north of US 70. For more information, contact the Roosevelt County Chamber of Commerce at 575/356-8541; or www.portales.com.

For lodging in the Clovis/Portales area, try the La Quinta Inn, 4521 N. Prince, Clovis, NM 88101 ( 800/753-3757 or 575/763-8777; www.lq.com). A good dining bet in the area is Juanito’s, 1608 Mabry Dr., Clovis ( 575/762-7822).

In Portales, stay at the Super 8 Motel, 1805 W. 2nd St. ( 800/800-8000 or 575/356-8518; www.super8.com). The Cattle Baron, 1600 S. Avenue D ( 575/356-5587; www.cattlebaron.com), has good steaks and a nice salad bar.

Carlsbad & Environs

Carlsbad, named for a spa in Bohemia, offers almost 3 miles of beaches and paths along the tree-shaded Pecos River. Founded in the late 1800s, its back streets have many elegant homes, and its town square encircles a Pueblo-style courthouse designed by New Mexico architect John Gaw Meem. Besides getting a good tourist business from Carlsbad Caverns, the town survives on farming, with irrigated crops of cotton, hay, and pecans.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park (see below) offers an unforgettable nature experience, drawing some 500,000 visitors each year.

Essentials

Getting There From Albuquerque, take 1-40 east 59 miles to Clines Corners; turn south on US 285, and travel 216 miles to Carlsbad via Roswell (6 hr.). From El Paso, take US 62/180 east (3 hr.).

New Mexico Airlines ( 888/564-6119; www.pacificwings.com/nma) provides commercial service, with daily flights between Albuquerque and Cavern City Air Terminal ( 575/887-3060), 4 miles south of the city via National Parks Highway (US 62/180). You can rent a car from Enterprise, 609 N. Canal St. ( 575/887-3039); with an advance reservation they will pick you up at the airport.

Visitor Information The Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce and the Carlsbad Convention and Visitors Bureau, both at 302 S. Canal St. (US 285), P.O. Box 910, Carlsbad, NM 88220 ( 800/221-1224 or 575/887-6516; www.carlsbadchamber.com), are open Monday from 9am to 5pm and Tuesday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

Seeing the Sights

Carlsbad’s pride and joy is the broad Pecos River, with a 3 1/2-mile river walk along the tree-shaded banks, beginning near the north end of Riverside Drive. This is a lovely place for a picnic, and if you’d like to cool off, a municipal beach at the north end has changing rooms and showers. Annual Christmas on the Pecos ★★ pontoon boat rides take place each evening from Thanksgiving to New Year’s Eve (except Christmas Eve), past a stunning display of Christmas lights on riverside homes and businesses. Advance reservations, available from the chamber of commerce, are required.

The Carlsbad Museum and Art Center, 418 W. Fox St., 1 block west of Canal Street ( 575/887-0276), contains Apache relics, pioneer artifacts, and an impressive art collection. The museum’s store has a small but fine selection of jewelry and books at reasonable prices. The museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm; admission is free, although donations are welcome. If you’re looking to shop, check out the Artist Gallery, 120 S. Canyon St. ( 575/887-1210), selling local and regional art. Look especially for Helen Gwinn’s mixed-media pieces.

Getting Outside

Recreational facilities in the Carlsbad area include some two dozen parks, several golf courses, numerous tennis courts and swimming pools, a municipal beach, and a shooting and archery range. Contact the City of Carlsbad Recreation Department ( 575/887-1191; www.cityofcarlsbadnm.com).

Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park ★ Situated within 1,200 acres of authentic Chihuahuan Desert, this park contains more than 50 species of desert mammals, birds, and reptiles, and almost 500 varieties of plants. Even for someone like me, who cringes at the thought of zoos, this is a pleasant 1.3-mile walk. You pass through displays with plaques pointing out vegetation such as mountain mahogany, and geologic formations such as gypsum sinkholes. In addition to a nocturnal exhibit, you’re likely to see lizards and other wild creatures, as well as captive ones.

Rehabilitation programs provide for the park’s animals, which have been sick or injured and are no longer able to survive in the wild. You’ll see golden eagles and great horned owls among the birds of prey in the aviary, and large animals such as deer and elk in outdoor pastures. One of the main highlights is the endangered gray wolf exhibit. The view from the park, high atop the Ocotillo Hills on the northwest side of Carlsbad, is superb.

1504 Miehls Dr. (P.O. Box 100), Carlsbad, NM 88221-0100. 575/887-5516. www.emnrd.state.nm.us/prd/livingdesert.htm. Admission $5 adults, $3 children 7–12, free for children 6 and under. Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day daily 8am–5pm, last park entry by 3:30pm; rest of year daily 9am–5pm, last park entry by 3:30pm. Gift shop closes 45 min. before zoo. Closed Christmas. Take Miehls Dr. off US 285 west of town and proceed just over a mile.

Where to Stay in & Around Carlsbad

Most lodgings are in the center of Carlsbad. Only the Best Western Cavern Inn is near the National Park, and I do not recommend it, as it needs more care than it is getting.

Best Western Stevens Inn ★ This is a comfortable and welcoming place after the rigor of traveling in this part of the state, where there are miles between stops. The grounds are carefully landscaped, and the inn offers numerous types of rooms built in different eras. Some need to be upgraded, so be sure to request a remodeled one or, better yet, request one of the newest rooms at the south end of the property, which are large and have large bathrooms; each has a fridge and microwave, and some have full kitchens. The rooms in the 400 and 600 numbered buildings are also updated. All the rooms are medium size, decorated in a Southwestern style, and have firm beds. Bathrooms are small but have outer double-sink vanities. The Flume is one of the better restaurants in town.

1829 S. Canal St., Carlsbad, NM 88220. 800/730-2851, 800/528-1234, or 575/887-2851. Fax 575/887-6338. www.bestwestern.com. 221 units. $109 double; $129 suite. Rates include breakfast buffet. AE, DISC, MC, V. Small pets allowed ($25 deposit). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free airport transfer; exercise room; playground; large outdoor pool; executive level rooms; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen (in some), microwave, Wi-Fi.

Holiday Inn Express ★★ One of Carlsbad’s newest lodgings, this hotel, opened in 2007, provides well-planned, comfortable rooms on the north side of town. Rooms are medium-size, with comfortable beds dressed in earthy colors, and a desk, and with lots of amenities. The medium-size bathrooms have granite countertops and tile tubs. As well, the hotel has king and queen suites, which include two TVs and a fold-out couch, a good option for families. Service here is courteous and professional.

2210 W. Pierce St., Carlsbad, NM 88220. 800/465-4329 or 575/234-1252. Fax 575/234-1253. www.hiexpress.com. 80 units. $99–$105 double; $133–$143 suite. Rates include full hot breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, microwave, Wi-Fi.

Trinity Hotel Suites ★★ In an 1892 bank building that’s a National Historic Landmark, this new hotel provides a luxurious old-world stay. The lobby, attached restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” below), wine bar, and small gift shop selling locally sourced products have high ceilings and hardwood floors, an elegance that carries into the guestrooms. They are spacious, with black, carved wood furniture, quality bedding, and large luxurious bathrooms, including some with Jacuzzi tubs. Service is very conscientious. The town’s best restaurant also resides here, where guests enjoy a delicious full breakfast included in the price of the room. The wine bar is a happening place, where guests can sample locally made wines including ones from the hotel owners’ vineyard.

201 S. Canal, Carlsbad, NM 88220. 575/234-9891. www.thetrinityhotel.com. 9 units. $169–$269 double. Rates include full gourmet breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi.

Camping

Brantley Lake State Park ( 575/457-2384; www.nmparks.com) in Carlsbad has RV hookups as well as tent campsites. Picnic tables, grills, and recreational facilities are available. Boating and lake fishing are popular here. Carlsbad RV Park and Campground, on the south end of town at 4301 National Parks Hwy. ( 888/878-7275 or 575/885-6333; www.carlsbadrvpark.com), is a large, full-service campground with a swimming pool and playground. In Artesia, try Artesia RV Park ( 575/746-6184; www.artesiarvpark.net), a more moderately sized campground, on Hermosa Drive just south of the junction of US 82/285. Laundry facilities and a game room are available.

Where to Dine in & Around Carlsbad

Blue House ★ BAKERY/CAFE In a quest to find good coffee in even the smallest of New Mexico towns, I now rate Carlsbad high. On a quiet residential street just north of historic downtown is this gem, set in a Queen Anne–style blue house with morning-glory vines adorning the front fence. Inside, subtle colors warm the walls, contrasting with brightly painted chairs and small round tables. The fare is simple, fresh, and imaginative, with espresso, lattes, and Italian sodas the biggest draws, along with special sandwiches and soups daily. Excellent baked goods top the breakfast menu, including homemade cinnamon rolls. For lunch, try any of the fresh organic salads such as the grilled chicken or Oriental. For something sweeter, order the cream cheese–raspberry coffee cake.

609 N. Canyon Rd. 575/628-0555. All menu items under $8. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6am–2pm; Sat 6am–noon (lunch served Tues–Fri 11am–1pm). Take Canal St. to Church St. east, and then go south on Canyon Rd.

Danny’s Place ★ BARBECUE In a country atmosphere with tile floors, pine chairs, and colorful plates adorning the walls, this restaurant serves excellent barbecue cooked over wood flames. More than 35 years ago, Danny Gaulden started marinating beef, pork, and chicken in his own sauce and he still does. At the back of the kitchen, a flaming cauldron cooks it to perfection. This place bustles while the competent waitstaff meets the pace. Your best bet here is the brisket, which accounts for 75% of their meals served. It comes with your choice of sides including coleslaw and potato salad, as does the rib dinner. Half-portion orders are offered. The restaurant also serves burgers, New Mexican dishes, and barbecue sandwiches, while a kids’ menu offers burgers, chicken, and burritos.

902 South Canal St. 575/885-8739. www.dannysbbq.com. Main courses $4–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 11am–9pm.

Trinity Hotel Suites, Fine Foods & Wine ★★ ITALIAN Set in an 1892 bank building complete with hardwood floors, high ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and a safe that now houses a cigar humidor, this lively restaurant serves an excellent selection of Italian dishes prepared with local ingredients, when possible. The service is courteous and efficient. At breakfast, order a latte or espresso with a variety of egg and pancake dishes, while lunch brings soups, salads, and sandwiches, including an Italian meatball one, with mozzarella and marinara sauce. Dinner is when this place really shines, with a variety of pasta, meat and fish, and vegetarian dishes. My favorite is the chicken marsala, with the classic mushroom wine sauce, and served over pasta. The lobster ravioli in a vodka sauce is also delicious. Definitely save room for the tiramisu. A short but well-considered wine and beer list accompanies the menu, with many by-the-glass options.

201 S. Canal, Carlsbad, NM 88220. 575/234-9891. www.thetrinityhotel.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $5–$12 breakfast, $7–$10 lunch, $10–$15 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–2pm; Mon–Sat 5–8:30pm or later if busy.

Carlsbad After Dark

Carlsbad has a bit of a night scene. You have two options. The Blue Cactus, 1829 S. Canal St. ( 575/887-2851), offers a variety of DJ music Monday through Saturday nights, as well as big-screen TVs. The Post Time Saloon, 313 W. Fox St. ( 575/628-1977), is a huge place with pool tables, three bars, and a dance floor. The club offers a range of DJ mixes, including country, Tejano, and karaoke.

Exploring the Environs

A Side Trip to Texas: Guadalupe Mountains National Park ★★

Some 250 million years ago, the Guadalupe Mountains were an immense reef poking up through a tropical ocean. Marine organisms fossilized this 400-mile-long Capitan Reef as limestone; later, as the sea evaporated, a blanket of sediments and mineral salts buried the reef. Then, just 10 to 12 million years ago, a mountain-building uplift exposed a part of the fossil reef. This has given modern scientists a unique opportunity to explore earth’s geologic history, and outdoor lovers a playground for wilderness experience.

The steep southern end of the range makes up Guadalupe Mountains National Park and includes Guadalupe Peak, at 8,749 feet the highest in Texas, while the northern part lies within Lincoln National Forest and Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Deer, elk, mountain lion, and bear are found in the forests, which contrast strikingly with the desert around them.

Just the Facts To reach the park, take US 62/180, 55 miles southwest of Carlsbad. Admission to the park is $5, and the visitor center is open daily June through August from 8am to 6pm; September through May from 8am to 4:30pm. For more information, contact Park Ranger, HC-60, Box 400, Salt Flat, TX 79847 ( 915/981-3251; www.nps.gov/gumo). The park has more than 80 miles of trails; most are steep, rugged, and rocky. No lodging, restaurants, stores, or gas exist within 35 miles of the park. Leashed pets are permitted only in the campground parking area.

Seeing the Highlights The visitor center offers a variety of exhibits and slide programs that tell the story of the Guadalupe Mountains, as well as ranger-guided walks and lectures. Information, maps, and backcountry permits can also be obtained at McKittrick Canyon Visitor Center (10 miles northeast via US 62/180 and a side road; 915/828-3381) and the Dog Canyon Ranger Station (reached through Carlsbad via NM 137 and CR 414, about 70 miles; 575/981-2418).

One of the most spectacular hikes in Texas is to the top of Guadalupe Peak, an 8.5-mile round-trip trek accessed from the Pine Springs Campground. McKittrick Canyon, protected by its high sheer walls, with a green swath of trees growing along the banks of its spring-fed stream, is a beautiful location. It is a great spot for hiking, bird-watching, and viewing other wildlife, and it’s an especially lovely sight during fall foliage season, from late October to mid-November.

Camping Pine Springs and Dog Canyon both have developed camping areas, with restrooms and water, but no hookups or showers. Fires, including charcoal, are not permitted.

Artesia

A downtown rejuvenation project has brought a sparkle to Artesia, a town of nearly 11,000 people, 36 miles north of Carlsbad on US 285. If you’d like to tour the town, pick up a Walking Tour map from local businesses or the Artesia Chamber of Commerce (see below), or download it at www.artesiamainstreet.com, to see 17 historic or notable sites. The Artesia Historical Museum and Art Center, housed in a Victorian home at 505 W. Richardson Ave. ( 575/748-2390; www.artesiamuseum.com), is worth visiting just to see the Queen Anne–style home with the outside covered with round river stones. Open Tuesday through Friday from 9am to 5pm (closed noon–1pm), and Saturday from 1 to 5pm, the museum exhibits Native American and pioneer artifacts, traveling exhibits, and art shows. Admission is free.

If you want to stop over in Artesia, consider the Best Western Pecos Inn, 2209 W. Main St. (US 82), Artesia, NM 88211 ( 575/748-3324; www.bestwestern.com). For a historic option, try the Heritage Inn ★, 209 W. Main St., Artesia, NM 88210 ( 575/748-2552; www.artesiaheritageinn.com). In the center of town, the 1906 hotel offers cozy rooms decorated with antiques, many with hardwood floors. A good place to eat is the Wellhead ★, 332 W. Main St. ( 575/746-0640; www.thewellhead.com), a brewpub designed around the theme of oil wells. It’s open Sunday through Thursday from 11am to 11pm and Friday and Saturday from 11am to midnight. Reservations are recommended on weekends and holidays. Main courses range from $8 to $32, and most major credit cards are accepted. Further information can be obtained from the Artesia Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 99, Artesia, NM 88211 ( 575/746-2744; www.artesiachamber.com).

Hobbs

Located 69 miles east of Carlsbad on US 62/180, on the edge of the Llano Estacado tableland, Hobbs is at the center of New Mexico’s richest oil field. Many oil companies base their headquarters here.

The Lea County Cowboy Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Center near New Mexico Junior College, on the Lovington Highway ( 575/392-6730; www.museumshobbsnm.org), honors the area’s ranchers (both men and women) and rodeo performers and is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm (closed college holidays).

Twenty-two miles northwest of Hobbs via NM 18, at the junction with US 82, is the town of Lovington (pop. 9,500), another ranching and oil center. The Lea County Historical Museum, 103 S. Love St. ( 575/396-4805; www.leacountymuseum.org), presents memorabilia of the region’s unique history in a World War I–era hotel (ca. 1918).

If you plan to stay in Hobbs, try the Holiday Inn Express, 3610 N. Lovington Hwy. ( 800/377-8660 or 575/392-8777; www.hiexpress.com). Harry McAdams Park, 4 miles north of Hobbs on NM 18 ( 575/397-9291), has campsites and a visitor center set on acres of lovely grass. You can get a good square meal at the Cattle Baron, 1930 N. Grimes St. ( 575/393-2800; www.cattlebaron.com). Gamblers and horse-racing fans enjoy the Black Gold Casino at Zia Park, 3901 W. Millen Dr. ( 888/942-7275 or 575/492-7000; www.blackgoldcasino.net), with more than 700 slot machines. Live horse racing takes place September to December. For more information on the area, contact the Hobbs Chamber of Commerce, 400 N. Marland Blvd. ( 800/658-6291 or 575/397-3202; www.hobbschamber.org), or the Lovington Chamber of Commerce, 201 S. Main St. ( 575/396-5311; www.lovingtonchamber.org).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park ★★★

One of the largest and most spectacular cave systems in the world, Carlsbad Caverns comprise some 100 known caves that snake through the porous limestone reef of the Guadalupe Mountains. Fantastic and grotesque formations fascinate visitors, who find every shape imaginable (and unimaginable) naturally sculpted in the underground world—from frozen waterfalls to strands of pearls, from soda straws to miniature castles, from draperies to ice-cream cones.

Although Native Americans had known of the caverns for centuries, they were not discovered by Anglos until about a century ago, when settlers were attracted by sunset flights of bats from the cave. Jim White, a guano miner, began to explore the main cave in the early 1900s and to share its wonders with tourists. By 1923, the caverns had become a national monument, upgraded to national park status in 1930.

Essentials

Getting There Take US 62/180 from either Carlsbad (see “Essentials,” under “Carlsbad & Environs,” earlier in this chapter), which is 23 miles to the northeast, or El Paso, Texas, which is 150 miles to the west. The scenic entrance road to the park is 7 miles long and originates at the park gate at White’s City.

Visitor Information For more information about the park, contact Carlsbad Caverns National Park, 3225 National Parks Hwy., Carlsbad, NM 88220 ( 877/444-6777; www.recreation.gov for tour reservations, 575/785-2232 for information about guided tours, or 575/785-3012 for bat flight information; www.nps.gov/cave).

Admission Fees & Hours General admission to the park is $6 for adults, free for children age 15 and under. Admission is good for 3 days and includes entry to the two self-guided walking tours. Guided tours range in price from $8 to $20, depending on the type of tour, and reservations are required. The visitor center and park are open daily approximately from Memorial Day to Labor Day from 8am to 7pm; however, the last entry into the cave via the Natural Entrance is 3:30pm and via the elevator is 5pm. The rest of the year the visitor center and park are open from 8am to 5pm; the last entry into the cave via the Natural Entrance is 2pm and via the elevator is 3:30pm. The park is closed Christmas.

Touring the Caves

Two caves, Carlsbad Cavern and Slaughter Canyon Cave, are open to the public. The National Park Service has provided facilities, including elevators, to make it easy for everyone to visit the cavern, and a kennel for pets is available. Visitors in wheelchairs are common. Baby strollers are not allowed in the caves, and children 15 and under must be accompanied by an adult.

In addition to the tours described below, inquire at the visitor center information desk about other ranger-guided tours, including climbing and crawling “wild” cave tours. Be sure to call days in advance because some tours are offered only 1 day per week. Spelunkers who seek access to the park’s undeveloped caves require special permission from the park superintendent.

Carlsbad Cavern Tours

You can tour Carlsbad Cavern in one of three ways, depending on your time, interest, and level of ability. The first, and least difficult, option is to take the elevator from the visitor center down 750 feet to the start of the self-guided tour of the Big Room. More difficult and time consuming, but vastly more rewarding, is the 1-mile self-guided tour along the Natural Entrance route, which follows the traditional explorer’s route, entering the cavern through the large historic natural entrance. The paved walkway through the natural entrance winds into the depths of the cavern and leads through a series of underground rooms; this tour takes about an hour. Parts of it are steep. At its lowest point, the trail reaches 750 feet below the surface, ending finally at an underground rest area.

Visitors who take either the elevator or the Natural Entrance route begin the self-guided tour of the spectacular Big Room near the rest area. The floor of this room covers 14 acres; the tour, over a relatively level path, is 1 1/4 miles long and takes about an hour.

The third option is the 1 1/2-hour ranger-guided Kings Palace tour, which also departs from the underground rest area. This tour descends 830 feet beneath the surface of the desert to the deepest portion of the cavern open to the public. Reservations are required, and an additional fee is charged.

Carlsbad Cavern Tour Tips

Wear flat shoes with rubber soles and heels because of the slippery paths. A light sweater or jacket feels good in the constant temperature of 56°F (13°C), especially when it’s 100°F (38°C) outside in the sun. The cavern is well lit, but you may want to bring along a flashlight as well. Rangers are stationed in the cave to answer questions.

Other Guided Tours

Be sure to ask about the Slaughter Canyon Cave, Left Hand Tunnel, Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Spider Cave tours. These vary in degree of difficulty and adventure, from Left Hand, which is an easy half-mile lantern tour, to Spider Cave, where you can expect tight crawlways and canyonlike passages, to Hall of the White Giant, a strenuous tour in which you’re required to crawl long distances, squeeze through tight crevices, and climb up slippery flow-stone-lined passages. Call in advance for times of each tour. All these tours depart from the visitor center.

Bat Flights

Every sunset from Memorial Day to mid-October, a crowd gathers at the natural entrance of the cave to watch 400,000 bats take flight for a night of insect feasting. (The bats winter in Mexico.) All day long, the Mexican free-tailed bats sleep in the cavern; at night, they strike out on an insect hunt. A ranger program is offered around sunset (verify the time at the visitor center) at the outdoor Bat Flight Amphitheater. A dawn bat fly-in is also impressive. Midsummer, the park sponsors a Bat Flight Breakfast from 5 to 7am, during which visitors watch the bats return to the cavern. Participants purchase their own breakfasts at the Carlsbad Caverns Trading Restaurant. For information call 575/785-3012 for bat flights; 575/785-2232, ext. 0 for bat flight breakfast; or check www.nps.gov/cave.

Other Park Activities

The new Carlsbad Caverns Visitor Center has virtual tours of the caves, a variety of films, and an expansive book and gift shop, as well as a restaurant. Aside from the caves, the park offers a 10-mile one-way scenic-loop drive through the Chihuahuan Desert to view Rattlesnake and Upper Walnut canyons. Picnickers can head for Rattlesnake Springs Picnic Area, on CR 418 near Slaughter Canyon Cave, a water source for hundreds of years for Native Americans, and a primo birding spot. Backcountry hikers must register at the visitor center before going out on any of the trails in the park’s 46,766 acres. Watch the Caverns website for dates for Star Party events given during the summer. The park is an excellent place to view the night sky.

Dining

The new Carlsbad Caverns Visitor Center has a cafeteria-style restaurant serving tasty food salads, sandwiches, and hot dishes. It’s open daily in summer from 8am to 7pm, with hot food served until 6:15pm; in winter daily from 8am to 5pm, with hot food until 4:15pm. A cafe at the base of the caverns serves light food and other refreshments.

The Flume ★ AMERICAN Named for the irrigation ditch that brings water to the region’s farmers, the Flume serves reliable beef, pork, and chicken dishes in a comfortable atmosphere. This is where Carlsbad locals come for their special nights out. The decor in the two-room dining area, separated by arches, has a bit of a 1970s feel, but includes comfortable chairs. Service is good. Breakfast brings standard egg and pancake offerings. For lunch you might try one of their sandwiches such as the smoked turkey with Swiss cheese and avocado. The salads and burgers are also tasty. At dinner, I’ve enjoyed a nice grilled chicken here, and my mother liked her fettuccine Alfredo with shrimp. Others seem to order the rib-eye or prime rib, which is served on Friday and Saturday nights. Entrees come with a trip to the salad bar, a vegetable, and choice of a starch. Diners can order from a full bar. A senior menu is available.

1829 S. Canal St., 575/887-2851. www.bestwestern.com. Breakfast and lunch $5–$12; dinner $13–$23. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–10pm.