All anglers have a few special knots for general situations and general use. This list of about a dozen knots in alphabetical order is one that I find is useful to remember and practice whenever I get a moment to twist a piece of line. If you can remember and practice these, you’ll be better at remembering and using the other knots in the book. A word to the wise here: You will see many books referring to the strength of the knot being as much as a claimed 200 percent of the strength of the line. This is clearly nonsense, unless you know what they are talking about. What they are really claiming is that the knot does not break until 200 percent (or whatever number they give you) of the manufacturer’s stated breaking strength of the line. This number is found by breaking dozens or perhaps even hundreds of samples of line in a testing machine, under rigorous conditions of quality control in a laboratory. All the breaking strengths are then added up and divided by the number of tests to provide an average number for the break strength. As with many things in the Scientific world, the average is just a number—it is not a guarantee. A clever mathematics teacher once told me that, if I stand with one foot on the stove and the other foot in the refrigerator, on average I would be comfortable. Clearly these extremes are unusual, but they are still correct when talking about an average—you need to know how many tests were done, what the spread of numbers (highest to lowest) was and if the line was all from the same production batch.
It is not unusual to have strength tests that differ widely from each other—the mathematical term for this is standard deviation. This just means that some strengths are higher and some are lower than the average. Taken overall, the average strength of a piece of line can be beaten by (or not do as well as) any other piece of the same line, sometimes even from the same batch. So, when a knot is claimed to perform at 200 percent of the breaking strength (which is implying that the knot makes the line stronger) it just means that several people got lucky once or twice and tested the knot using line that was performing better than the manufacturer’s tests had shown to be the average strength, or that the strength number was understated. Knots will almost make a line weaker, though in the case of some knots, such as the Bimini Twist, the line will break before the knot, if it is tied properly. The point at which the line will break is almost always at the point where it enters the knot, because this is where it is first bent out of shape by the knot, inducing tension on one side of the line and compression on the other. Sometimes a knot will break at a different point within the line and sometimes, as mentioned above, the line will break outside the knot altogether. These are normal variances and may even be expected. It does not mean that a knot improves the strength of the line. You will also occasionally have a line break where there was a defect in the line, which, with modern manufacturing methods, happens a lot less frequently than with the older types of line. Enough of the physics already—let’s get on with the knots.
Before you can start fishing, you’ll need this knot to secure the line to your reel. When tying extra-slippery, non-stretch lines to the arbor, put a piece of tape around the arbor first, so knotted line has something to bite into. Otherwise the entire spoolful is likely to rotate around the arbor under pressure. The Arbor Knot uses an overhand knot on the standing part of your line, backed up by another overhand knot like this:
1. Wrap line around your spool in a clockwise direction.
2. Tie an overhand knot around the standing part and slip the tag end through it.
3. Tie an overhand in the tag end and pull it tight.
4. Slide the completed knot down to fit snugly onto your arbor.
5. Put the spool back on the reel and start taking up line.
When you want to maintain your line at 100 percent of its rated break strength, the Bimini Twist is the knot to choose. When this knot is completed, the loop that results provides two strands that are used together, as if they were a single piece, when tying to another line or to a hook eye. Often the loop is clipped and the two strands are twisted together, and this twist is then used as a single line to make the next connection.
The trick to this knot is controlling the tension properly as the knot is formed. Practice this knot before setting out—there’s nothing quite like the frustration of trying to tie a BT when the wind is blowing, and the boat is rocking.
1. Make a loop that is nearly twice as long as you need it and twist the loop 20 times around with your hand, while holding the tag end and the standing part together.
2. Place the loop around your foot and pull it up over your knee, then pull on both ends to twist the lines together and put the twist under tension.
3. This step reverses the direction of the tag, rolling it down over the twist, heading back toward the loop. Release the tension on the tag end slightly and feed the tag around the twists as they spin. At this point you can assist the rollover by straightening your leg to help the twisted portion spin, as you feed the tag smoothly down over the twists.
4. Then hold the last of the wraps firmly with your left hand while you tie a half hitch around one leg of the loop.
5. Then tie another half hitch around the other leg of the loop. At this point the knot should be stable.
6. Now make a two-or three-wrap half hitch around both legs of the loop.
7. Pull the tag end tightly to snug up the finishing half hitches. Trim the excess, leaving a short tag so the half hitches do not work loose.
The Crawford Knot is a secure knot to use with a monofilament or Spectra leader, because the wraps develop the inherent strength you are looking for. It is a jamming wrap, relying on the tag end jammed into the space between the wraps and the eye on your hook. It can be difficult to fetch up securely unless lubricated well, but is a good knot to remember for a secure tie.
1. Pass the line clockwise through the eye and under the standing part.
2. Wrap over both parts of the loop you just made, to the left, and tuck the tag end under both parts.
3. Bring the tag end over the two legs of the loop, this time to the right.
4. Tuck the tag end, from underneath, into the top loop.
5. Tuck the end back through the loop you first made by the eye.
6. Fair the knot and draw it down tight to the hook, lure, or sinker.
This variation on the standard Clinch Knot has a small improvement in the last step, which makes it more secure in mono because of that extra pinch point.
1. Pass the standing part through the eye, clockwise.
2. Form a loop over the standing part.
3. Make at least three more turns over the standing part, six for slippery line.
4. Pass the tag end UP through the loop by the eye.
5. Pass the tag end DOWN through the tag end’s own loop.
6. Gradually work the wetted turns together, pulling the standing part, and then trim the tag end.
This is a high-strength knot, especially favored by muskie fishermen. Its strength comes from the number of turns the line makes through the hook-eye. Those turns and their finishing wraps are important to spreading the load on the line, so don’t skimp on them just because they are hard to make.
1. Make a loop through the eye, in a clockwise direction.
2. Bring the tag end through the eye again.
3. Bring the tag end through the eye a third time.
4. Start to wrap the two loops with the tag end.
5. Complete three wraps around the loops with the tag end.
6. Fair the knot by pulling on the standing part, gradually working the two loops both through the eye until they are firm, and tightly holding the wraps from Step 5.
Fishing offishore requires that you use something really hardy and capable of taking a beating. A swivel attached to your double-line leader with this knot will stick like glue and never let go. It needs some care in tightening, but is well worth the effort to make it right. It gets its power from the fact that it has so many twists, from an old knot known as a Cat’s-paw, in which each of the twists bears against the next twist, sharing the load throughout the hitch, a bit like a zipper, but with-out being able to unzip. To untie it, you simply have to wiggle the knot open a little and then reverse the direction of tying it.
1. Make a loop in the end of the leader or use a spliced loop if using Dacron braid.
2. Pass the loop through the swivel ring.
3. Flip the loop back over itself to the left, leaving the swivel on the right.
4. Turn the swivel back over itself to the right.
5. Repeat Stage 4 five more times (six in all).
6. Wet the knot thoroughly and draw the twisted loops slowly together, rolling the twists toward the swivel as you go.
The Orvis Company ran a contest to find the best line-to-hook knot. This knot, by Larry Becker of Waskom, Texas, was the winner. It is simple in construction, secure because it does not let go, and strong enough to warrant winning the contest. Orvis judges recognized it as a winner because of the ease with which it can be remembered and tied. The more I have looked at and used the Orvis knot, the more I am convinced that it is an extension of the Timber Hitch, a very useful and secure knot used in old squarerigged ships and on small day-sailor ships to attach a reefing line. Combine those attributes with the base figure eight around the standing part of your line and it is small wonder it was declared the winner. It is in any case a very secure knot.
1. Make a clockwise underhand loop through the hook or lure eye.
2. Bring the tag end over the standing part of the line to make a figure eight.
3. Start to make what appears to be a second figure eight, but keep wrapping the tag end around that arm of the first eight, one more time.
4. Now fair up the knot by tightening the wraps around the second eight and then pulling the first eight tighter.
Here is an interesting fact: did you know that two overhand knots tied in the same direction make a granny knot, or that two overhand knots tied first to the left and then to the right make a square knot? The overhand makes a helpful stopper knot—if you don’t mind that it is usually permanent. It is also the basis for many of the other knots in this section, is a knot that can be tied by the wind, and may have been one of the first knots ever tied by primitive man. Shown are two distinct types of overhand knot, one left-handed and one right-handed. Both are correct—just be sure to use the same type each time.
1. (RH Overhand) Bring the tag end around over the standing part in a clockwise direction.
2. (RH Overhand) Tuck the tag end under the standing part and then through the loop you have formed.
3. (RH Overhand) The completed knot, not yet faired up; leave the tag end sticking out about ¼-inch after fairing the knot.
4. (LH Overhand) Bring the tag end around under the standing part, clockwise.
5. (LH Overhand) Seen here below the RH Over-hand; tuck the tag end down into the loop and pull through from underneath.
6. Here are the RH Overhand and the LH Overhand together before fairing.
If you are looking for a knot to use reliably with braid line, this is it. The Palomar is easily tied, easily remembered and is very useful as a terminal knot for your gear. It can be tied using a loop (bight) or with a doubled line—either way, it will not come loose. A word to the wise—if you are tying a double or triple hook, don’t use this knot, as the hooks are likely to get tangled in the loop at some point during the tying.
1. Bring a loop to the eye of the hook.
2. Pass the loop through the eye.
3. Make an overhand knot with the loop.
4. Pass the loop over the hook to pass behind the shank.
5. Fair the knot by pulling the overhand knot tight around the shank and then up over.
6. Pull the knot and eye, to tighten around the tightened overhand loop knot, then trim away the tag end.
Snelling is a word that was first used in print in the U.S. in 1893, when reference was made in Volume XXII of the February issue of the sporting magazine Outing to “well made, securely wrapped, double-snelled Aberdeen bend hooks.” The origin of the word in Old English means quick or sharp, so I would guess that the name was given on account of the finished appearance of the hook shank being “sharp” when attached like this.
1. Pass the line through the hook eye and along the shank, then return, forming an overhand counter-clockwise loop below the shank.
2. Make wraps around the shank and the upper part of the loop, until you have from four to seven wraps or more, depending on your line.
3. Fair up the knot by rolling it around the shank with your fingers, cutting away the tag end when you are satisfied the wraps are tight enough. Use a hook with a bent eye, NOT the type shown here.
The Albright Knot has a great history, and it’s a standby for tying light mono to heavier lines and leaders like heavy mono, singlestrand wire, or nylon-coated wire. It is trim enough to pass through the rod guides smoothly. The lock on this one brings a certain peace of mind to knowing that the tag end is not going to back out of the knot during a fight. It is sometimes known as the Key Loop with a Lock and the Key Knot Splice with a Lock.
1. Loop each line through the other (solid color is the lighter line; patterned is the heavier line or wire).
2. Start making turns around the legs of the loop, winding the lighter line back down the loop, over itself.
3. Continue wrapping …
4. … until you have six turns, then tuck the tag end through the loop.
5. Then pull the loop through the wraps to capture the tag end. Make turns with the tag end around its own standing part and tuck it through the loop that has formed.
6. Pull hard on the tag end to make the turns snug against the loop end.
7. Here is what it looks like from the other side.
The simple Blood Knot is an elegant knot for joining lines of the same or similar diameter. Be sure to take the number of turns suggested, or you may find that the knot slips and comes apart. Lighter lines require more turns than heavier lines.
1. Lay the two lines together and overlapped about six inches.
2. Pinch one line under the other (here the lighter line is pinched under) with its tag to the right and wrap it around the other standing part about four to six times.
3. Tuck the tag end down between the two lines.
4. Repeat this with the other tag end, being sure to wrap in the opposite direction.
5. Tuck the second tag end through the wraps in the opposite direction of the first.
6. Form the loose knot up evenly and lubricate it with water or saliva, then pull steadily and firmly on both standing ends until the knot is formed. Tighten this knot with one steady pull. It is difficult or impossible to form properly unless it is tightened in one smooth operation.
I call this one the Complex Blood Knot because it takes a little more practice than the simple blood knot and because it is not really a Blood Knot; it only vaguely resembles it. It is used only when you want to attach a light line to a heavier one—the Blood Knot will not do it so easily, and this one is easy to remember. Don’t bother trying to use it to tie two same-size lines together—it will just make for a bulky knot. The Complex Blood Knot is used to help make sure that the light line is not overstressed and that, where the heavier line bends back on itself, it does not cut the lighter line—hence the good reason for doubling the lighter line. One more thing to add to the complexity; you could try leaving a dropper loop for a second hook instead of cutting away the light line loop where it passes through the center of the wraps. That way you get a two-for-one knot.
1. Make a bight in both lines.
2. Start wrapping the heavier line around the lighter line.
3. Bring the third or fourth (last) wrap between itself and the lighter line. This forms one side of the knot.
4. Now take the bight of leader and wrap it around the main line.
5. Tuck it over itself and down into the space where the tag of the main line sits. Be sure to tuck it OVER the main line tag as shown here.
6. Draw the two lines apart, gradually rolling the leader bight tighter around the main line. If you need a loop at this point for a second leader, keep the leader bight, otherwise cut away the leader bight and the tag end of the main line to create a free-running knot. Coat with Pliobond if needed.
As with most knots where you want to join a light line to a heavy line, you have to prepare the light line first. Let’s say that you are looking to connect a fly leader tippet to a good strong line, such as 80-pound test, or heavier. First, make a Bimini Twist in your light line. This double strand will be used to tie the knot to the heavier material. You will need to lubricate this knot to snug it down, and pliers to effectively tighten it.
1. With the heavier material, tie an overhand knot around the doubled strand of the leader.
2. Start wrapping the leader bight around the standing part of your main line, behind the overhand knot.
3. Tie an overhand around your main line using the bight of the leader and snug it down hard against the overhand already in your main line.
4. Wrap the leader bight several times (four or five) around the main line, being sure not to trap the bight under your wraps.
5. Pull the bight through and snug the wraps down against the leader’s own overhand knot.
6. The tag ends should look like this prior to trimming.
7. If you used a Bimini Twist to get your initial loop, fair the knot to get the BT’s wraps down to the overhand knot. Otherwise, tuck the tag end of the bight under a half hitch to finish. Trim away both tag ends and coat with Pliobond.
This is an extension of the simple overhand knot that uses an extra tuck through the knot to develop, in the same way the Cat’s Paw does, more friction by adding an extra twist. It is called the Surgeon’s Knot as it is used in surgery to provide a better grip on the ligature to bring wound edges together.
1. Lay the two pieces of line next to each other, tag ends facing away from each other.
2. Make an overhand loop with both lines.
3. Make an overhand knot, left-handed or right, your choice (RH shown).
4. Double the overhand knot by adding another turn around the knot.
5. Fair the knot tightly, being sure to roll both parts toward each other—a little lubrication would help here.
