Attaching a line directly to the hook involves passing the end of the line through the eye of the hook. Nothing very complicated or difficult about that, so why the need to know about putting a loop through the hook instead? One reason is that a loop spreads the load of the line over the eye of the hook (you are using twice as much line with a loop as you do with a single line), which lowers the load on the individual strands of line. The second, and probably equally important reason is security. You want your knot to stay in place on the eye of the hook. Loops develop greater security than regular knots and hitches. Try these few select loop-to-hook knots and hitches and see if they don’t improve the security of your hooks.
When you attach one loop to another, you will need access to one end of one of the lines to which the loop is attached. Don’t try to pass a fully loaded reel and rod through a leader loop.
1. Two loops already made—use your favorites.
2. Insert the leader loop into the main line loop.
3. Take the other end of the leader and insert it through its own loop only.
4. Pull both loops away from each other and they should flip to look like this.
5. This is not quite perfect, but it will probably slip into place with pressure.
6. This configuration is weak and will cut through itself.
Alongside the Homer Rhode Loop and the non-slip Mono Loop knot, the Duncan Loop is a favorite among anglers for forming a strong loop that allows the hook or lure to swing freely. Under pressure, when fighting a fish, the loop will close, giving you a tighter and more secure knot. Be sure you make the wraps tightly.
1. Pass the tag end through the eye and make an S-shape.
2. Wrap only one side of the S-shape with the tag end.
3. Continue wrapping until you have at least three turns.
4. Pass the tag end through the loop you have formed. Adjust the loop to proper size by sliding the knot on the standing line, then tighten it in place by pulling on the tag end.
5. Here is the knot, tightened down to the hook—after a strike.
Trying to get salmon eggs to stay in place can be a major headache unless you try this little trick. This handy device will provide you with a good solid seating and a built-in trap to keep things where you want them—on the hook.
1. Pass the tag end through the eye.
2. Lay the tag end along the shank and make turns of the standing part around tag end and shank.
3. Keep making turns until you have at least seven turns.
4. Make a loop with the standing part and pass the standing end through the eye, but keep it loose.
5. Make twists of the loop you just formed over the hook, trapping the tag end with your new wraps.
6. After three twists and wraps, stop and pull the standing part to tighten the wraps onto the tag end.
7. Tighten the standing part almost down onto the shank.
8. Now your hook is ready to receive the roe under the loop you created—the tension on your line will handily hold the eggs in place.
This always makes me think about Homer Simpson, although of course he has nothing to do with Homer Rhode, the guide in the Florida Keys for whom the knot was named. This knot is also sometimes known as the Flemish Loop or the Loop Knot, for those who are not aware of Homer Rhode. The knot enables the lure to swing freely and it can be tied with mono or braided line, even plastic-coated wire if need be. Be sure to use pliers to make the turns tight.
1. Tie an overhand knot in the standing part and pass the tag end through the eye.
2. Pass the tag end through the loop of the overhand knot.
3. Make a second overhand knot around the standing part, using the tag end.
4. Tighten both overhand knots and slide them together to create the desired size of loop, and then cut away un-needed tag end.
Here is the third great stand-by. It is non-slip because of the wraps, so in light line or slipperier line, use more wraps.
1. First, make an overhand knot, but don’t pull it tight.
2. Pass the tag end through the eye of the hook and pass the tag back through the overhand knot the same way it exited the knot.
3. Wrap the tag end around the standing part three to five times, depending on what line you are using.
4. Bring the tag end back through the overhand.
5. Fair up the knot and cut away the tag end as needed.
This loop knot allows the slipperiest line, or even bungee cord, to be tied so that it will not slip.
1. Form a first counterclockwise underhand loop.
2. Continue to wind the tag end counterclockwise over the standing part to make the second loop.
3. Position the tag end between the two loops and pull the top loop down through the lower loop …
4. …trapping the tag end between the two loops. Tighten by pulling on the loop.
Like the Surgeon’s Knot, the Surgeon’s Loop will not slip in the slickest of mono or even PVDF—it stays put. For that reason you cannot expect to undo it very easily. This loop is known by several other names: Double Overhand Loop, the Two-Fold Water Knot, the Line Knot, and the Two-Fold Blood Knot. Nothing wrong with having a few extra names, just as long as you remember how to tie it, which is simplicity itself:
1. Make a loop.
2. Start an overhand knot.
3. Make two passes through the overhand knot with the loop.
4. Pull tight—that’s it.
5. A view of the other side of the loop.
