An aluminum johnboat is a wise choice for beginning anglers who spend most of their fishing time on small waters. These boats are economical, portable and stable enough to provide a good casting platform.
I learned to fish as a small boy on the back seat of my dad’s homemade johnboat. There was nothing fancy about it, but fancy doesn’t have much to do with success. Dad’s little boat got us on the water and took us to the holes where crappie lived. I remember days when we completely filled our cooler and had “extras” scattered along the boat’s floor.
Not many beginners will enjoy the same learning opportunities. Most will start fishing from the bank, bridge or dock. But sooner or later, as your skills increase, you’ll want to broaden your horizons and get out “on the water.”
It’s not that you can’t catch fish around the banks. You certainly can, as we’ve noted in previous chapters. However, having a boat or some floating platform allows you to step up to another level in fishing. It opens a whole new world, allowing you to cover more water and be more versatile in your overall approach to the sport. In other words, a boat expands your fishing opportunities, and it allows you to increase your knowledge and fun.
Fishing boats come in a broad range of designs and prices. High end bass boats cost in the mid-$30,000 range! On the low end are float tubes that start around $50. The expensive rigs are highly technical and ultimately functional, and someday you might decide to purchase one. But with this book’s theme of keeping fishing simple, we’ll stick to the fundamental, less expensive, easier-to-maintain models that beginning anglers are more likely to buy. These include johnboats, V-hulls, canoes, “bass buggies,” inflatables and, again, float tubes.
An aluminum johnboat is a wise choice for beginning anglers who spend most of their fishing time on small waters. These boats are economical, portable and stable enough to provide a good casting platform.
Following are looks at each of these types of boats, the waters where they work best, and their advantages and disadvantages.
The aluminum johnboat may be the best all-purpose fishing boat for beginners. Johnboats have a flat bottom and a square or semi-V bow design. They are very stable and draw only a few inches of water, which enables them to traverse shallow areas. Johnboats were designed for streams, but a deep-sided, wide-beamed johnboat also adapts well to large open lakes. These boats perform well with outboard motors.
Johnboats come in a range of lengths, from 8 to more than 20 feet. However, the 12- and 14-foot models are most popular. These are light enough to be cartopped and carried to the water by two anglers. This means you can use a johnboat wherever you can drive close to a stream, pond bank or lakeshore.
Johnboats have three minor disadvantages: the flat hull provides a rough ride in choppy water; johnboats are clumsy to paddle; because of their all-metal construction, they are noisy when objects are dropped or banged against the sides.
But all in all, johnboats make very practical, relatively inexpensive fishing boats for beginners. Many anglers buy basic johnboats and customize them with seats, live well, carpet, rod holders, etc.
Top-of-the-line bass boats are super fishing machines. They feature powerful outboards, a range of electronics, and the size and stability needed to fish big water.
The V-hull is the workhorse of fishing boats. It’s called “V-hull” because it has a V-shaped bow that tapers back to a flat-bottomed hull. This allows the V-hull to slice through waves, giving a smoother, safer ride in rough water.
Most are made of fiberglass or aluminum. Heavier fiberglass boats provide a smoother ride in choppy water. Most popular V-hull sizes are 12-18 feet. These boats are normally fitted with mid-sized outboards (25-100 horsepower).
A disadvantage of the V-hull is its weight. Larger V-hulls require trailers, and must be launched from ramps. They are awkward to paddle, but maneuver well with an electric motor.
These boats are the standard on big lakes and rivers because of their ability to handle rough water. As with johnboats, they are often customized with a broad range of accessories. Some models are equipped with console steering. Boat dealers sell a range of models, from basic no-frills boats to those with motor and accessories factory-installed. V-hulls are typically more expensive than johnboats.
Canoes suffer from bad PR. Inexperienced canoeists believe these boats are too tippy for fishing. The truth is, certain models are very stable, and make excellent fishing boats for a wide range of waters. With only a little practice, beginners can handle a canoe and fish confidently from it.
Canoes offer anglers several advantages. They are relatively inexpensive and are extremely portable. They can be cartopped and carried to lakes or streams far off the beaten path. They are also ideal for small, urban waters where bigger boats are impractical or even disallowed. Canoes draw only inches of water. They are highly maneuverable and can be paddled through shallow riffles or bays. Also, some models can be outfitted with small outboards or electric motors for motorized running.
Canoes are made from several materials: fiberglass, aluminum, polyethylene. They come in square stern and double-end models. (Square stern canoes are best for using outboards or electric motors. Small motors may also be used on double-end canoes with a sidemount bracket near the stern.)
Canoes are inexpensive, portable and easy to learn to paddle. All these features make a canoe a good choice for fishing on flowing waters or small ponds and lakes.
Fishermen shopping for a canoe should strongly consider a 16- or 17-foot model that has a wide beam and a flat bottom. This offers the greatest stability and versatility.
This type boat is also known as a mini-bass boat, but can be used for many different species. It is a rectangular, hard plastic casting platform supported by flotation arms running beneath both sides. Bass buggies come in one- and two-man models, ranging up to 10 feet in length. Most have molded-in seats, rod wells, battery compartments, etc. Most use an electric trolling motor but a few larger models accept a small outboard motor.
Bass buggies are mainly used on small, protected waters such as ponds, sloughs, strip mine pits and arms of larger lakes. They are highly maneuverable in standing timber, brush and other cover. They float in only a few inches of water. Bass buggies should not be used on large lakes or rivers with high waves or strong current.
Bass buggies are bulky, which means they aren’t very portable. They must be hauled in a pickup bed or on a small trailer.
Inflatables are like rubber rafts, except today these “blow-up” boats are mostly made from PVC plastic. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The smallest models accommodate one passenger while the largest carry six people or more. These boats can be carried in a car trunk or SUV, backpacked to out-of-the-way waters and inflated on the spot. Portability is an inflatable boat’s strongest advantage.
Inflatables have several disadvantages, however. They are more a means of water transportation than a true fishing boat. Their soft sides and bottom make them unstable for stand-up casting. Inflatables are subject to puncture from sharp objects, though most are constructed with separate flotation panels, so a puncture in one compartment won’t sink the boat. Also, most inflatables come with easy-to-use repair kits. These boats are unwieldy to paddle, but some have a special motor-mount bracket that allows use of an electric motor or small outboard. One of the most attractive features of inflatables is price. They are very inexpensive. Two-man models start at around $50.
The float tube (also called a “belly boat”) isn’t a standard boat like the others mentioned in this chapter. The float tube is a floating doughnut with a sewn-in seat and leg holes. An angler carries it to his fishing site, steps in, pulls it up around his waist, then walks into the water. When he’s deep enough for the float tube to support his weight, he propels himself by kicking with swim fins or special paddles attached to his boots. (Most float tube anglers wear waders, though they’re not necessary if the water is warm.)
Float tubes are used to fish close to shore in small, quiet waters. They’ve very maneuverable, but they’re slow. They’re good for fishing in flooded brush, timber, patches of reeds or cattails or other similar spots that are difficult to reach by boat. Also, since float tubes are very quiet, they’re good for slipping up on spooky fish.
Float tubes should not be used in strong-wind/open-lake situations. High waves can flip you upside down, and float tubes can be difficult to right. Again, these “boats” should be confined to quiet, close-to-shore fishing.
Float tubes are highly portable and fairly inexpensive. They come in basic or deluxe models. Deluxe models come with such features as zippered tackle holders, shoulder straps, an inflatable backrest and Velcro rod holders.
The V-hull is the workhorse of fishing boats. It’s called “V-hull” because it has a V-shaped bow that tapers back to a flat hull. The V-hull is designed to slice through waves and provide a safe, dry ride in rough water.
Buying Your Fishing Rig
It’s obvious now that, even with a simple fishing rig, you’re looking at a sizeable investment. When it’s time to go shopping, check around for a package deal. By buying a boat, motor, trailer, fish locater and accessories from one dealer, you have a better bargaining position for a discount.
Do your homework. Don’t buy a rig without shopping around. Ask dealers for advice on what boat, motor, and accessories you’ll need for where you’ll be fishing. Check prices, collect literature, study it and decide for sure what you want before making any purchase commitment.
Boat dealers generally offer their best deals in late summer or fall, toward the end of the fishing season. At this time you’re in a better position to bargain and wait for them to come down on price. Don’t be in a hurry to buy your fishing rig. This is a big step, and you should proceed slowly and carefully.
Once you do take the step, however, you’ll have graduated up to fishing’s “high school.” You’ll have access to your chosen lake, river or stream’s entire angling menu. No longer will you have to fish from shore and watch the boats go by. Now you can join them. The door will suddenly open to many new fishing challenges and experiences, more than you can experience in a lifetime.
Motors aren’t absolutely necessary for fishing, but in many cases they certainly make the job easier. You must decide if you need a motor by the type boat you have and the water where you plan to fish. If you’ll be using a small boat on remote streams, small ponds or lakes, paddles may be all the power you need. But if you’ll be on larger waters where you’ll have to cover more distance, or where winds or currents can be strong, a larger boat with a motor will be more practical and efficient.
Fishing motors come in two varieties: outboard and electric. Outboard (gas-powered) motors are more powerful and are used mainly for running long distances—getting from one spot to the next. Electric (battery-powered) motors are less powerful and much quieter. Their job is to ease the boat through the target area while the angler fishes. Electric motors are also used as the main power source on waters where outboards aren’t allowed.
New outboard motors are expensive. Often they cost more than the boat they power. But anglers should view an outboard as a long-term investment. Modern outboards are dependable and easy to operate and will last many years if properly maintained.
Outboards range from 1.5 to 250-plus horsepower. Smaller motors are lightweight and portable. They attach to the boat’s stern with clamp mounts. Larger motors are heavy, and they’re permanently bolted onto the stern.
The main consideration when buying a motor is not to overpower the boat. All boats list maximum horsepower ratings either on the stern plate or in the owner’s instructions. Never exceed these ratings—overpowered boats are unsafe to operate.
Most electric motors fall into one of two categories: 12-volt and 24-volt. Twelve-volt motors are powered by one 12-volt battery. Twenty-four volt motors require two linked 12-volt batteries. The obvious difference between the two is available power, which is measured in “pounds of thrust.” The 24-volt motor is much stronger than a 12-volt. Twenty-four volt motors are normally used on big boats that operate in rough water. On smaller boats and quiet waters, a 12-volt motor is adequate.
Outboard motors come in a wide range of horsepower sizes. Modern outboards are expensive, but they are good investments. They will last for years if properly maintained.
A clamp-on electric motor is a good choice for powering a smaller johnboat, V-hull or bass buggie. They are quiet so they won’t scare fish, yet they are strong enough to maneuver a boat into the best casting position.
Electric motors have different types of mounts and methods of operation. Some motors have “clamp-on” mounts with screws to tighten down on the sides or transom of the boat. Others have bow mounts that attach permanently to the front of the boat. Some electric motors are operated by hand, while others have foot controls that allow the user to run the motor while keeping his hands free to fish. Remote- and radio-control electric motors are available. Microchip technology is being used to upgrade electric motors each year, making them ever more “user friendly.”
It is much more efficient for an electric motor to pull a boat rather than push it. A boat with an electric motor mounted on or near the bow is easier to propel and steer than one with an electric motor on the transom.
When shopping for an electric motor, you’ll find models with many options and power ratings. My recommendation for a beginner’s first electric is a 12-volt clamp-on model with 20-40 pounds of thrust. Remember that the heavier your boat, the more power you’ll need to pull or push it. Also, electric motor shafts come in different lengths. Owners of johnboats, canoes and bass buggies will probably need motors with shafts that are 30 or 36 inches long. Owners of V-hulls may need a motor with a 42-inch shaft, since these boats have higher sides and are more likely to be used in rolling waves. Boat dealers can provide guidelines for choosing the right shaft length.
A fish locater is an angler’s “eyes under the water.” Its basic function is to show the bottom and objects between the surface and the bottom. Knowing water depth is important both from a safety standpoint and also for fishing efficiency. Fish locaters can show submerged structure: drop-offs, sunken channels, stumps, brush, rocks, weeds, etc. A good fish locater can even tell whether the bottom is soft or hard, and can pinpoint concentrations of bait- and gamefish.
A fish finder’s signal is interpreted as a grapic image on the LCD screen. The computer uses the transponder’s signal to “paint” a picture of the bottom, features, and hanging fish.
Even though a fish finder is fairly expensive (starting at around $75), it is considered an almost indispensable tool by serious anglers. I recommend one for all beginners who will be fishing away from shore on lakes and large rivers. A fish locater, properly used, will pay great dividends in terms of numbers of fish caught.
A fish locater is a sonar unit that sends out sound waves that strike underwater objects. Then the fish locater measures how long it takes the echoes to bounce back to the sending unit. The deeper an object in the water, the longer the time required for this roundtrip. The fish locater then translates this time into a distance display, showing bottom depth and objects between the surface and bottom.
Most modern fish locaters are LCD units (“liquid crystal display”) that actually draw chart-like pictures of what’s beneath the boat. The latest technology includes different colors in this display to help users distinguish between fish and other underwater features. You can actually see fish you’re trying to catch!
The boat, motor and fish locater make up the core of the fishing rig, but several other accessories are needed to complete the package. State and federal laws require certain safety equipment on all boats. Boats under 16 feet must carry a Coast Guard-approved flotation device for each passenger, paddle, some type of sound signal (whistle, air horn, etc.), running lights if the boat is to be used at night, and a fire extinguisher if gas is kept in an enclosed compartment. Boats 16 feet and longer must meet these requirements, plus the flotation devices must be wearable life preservers, and the boat must also have a throwable flotation device (cushion, safety ring, etc). For a full review of these requirements, contact your state water safety office.
A fish locater uses sonar to indicate depth and the location of underwater structure. An angler can analyze a body of water and discover the best fishing locations.
Beyond these required items, you may consider a broad array of boat accessories: batteries and battery boxes, battery charger, landing net, anchor and rope, seats, fish basket, bilge pump, rod holders and marker floats. These and other accessories will complete your boat package and make your fishing easier.
Most bass boats use a stern mounted, gasoline powered outboard motor for travelling on lakes and rivers and an electric trolling motor, mounted near the bow, to maneuver around fishing spots.
There are two types of marine batteries: “deep cycle” and “quick start.” Deep-cycle batteries release small amounts of electricity over extended time periods. They are used primarily to power electric motors. Quick-start batteries provide short, powerful bursts of electricity. They are intended for starting outboards and also for running electric accessories other than the electric motor.
Remember four tips for battery maintenance. First, always recharge your batteries immediately after use. Don’t allow them to sit discharged for long periods. Second, if your battery is not sealed, you can open the cell caps to check solution levels. Keep solution at recommended levels. Third, don’t overcharge your batteries. If your batteries don’t have charge indicators, use a hydrometer and check charge level as you recharge. Quit charging when the hydrometer reads “full charge.” And fourth, during winter, charge batteries fully, then store them in a cool, dry place.
Imagine a clock lying on its back. According to my father, a World War II veteran, the United States Army Air Force used it as a directional system to help gunners pick up the positions of attacking enemy fighter aircraft. Now imagine your boat as a flat clock, its numerals used by your guide to direct your attention to a fish’s position and where to aim your cast. Think of the bow as twelve o’clock, starboard as three o’clock, the stern as six o’clock, and port as nine o’clock. Understanding this system will contribute to your success in taking more fish, making your fly fishing more productive and pleasurable. My analogy may seem a bit farfetched, but as you progress as a saltwater fly angler, you will eventually hire a guide who will not only captain your boat but will also be a great source of information and suggestions. Almost all guides employ the clock system: When he says, “Tarpon at ten o’clock,” you need to understand what he is saying and why, so you can act accordingly.
The kayak is a stealthy and effective vehicle to use for fly fishing, a means to access fishing areas where fish are normally easily spooked, such as flats, marshes, and kelp beds. In addition, a kayak is not only portable, but it requires a smaller investment than a flats skiff and is more environmentally friendly (no gasoline or motor oil required).
A properly equipped kayak can store a couple of fly rods, fly boxes, a BogaGrip (for holding fish by the lip, for hook removal), and even a push pole.
Using a kayak, you can stand and sight-cast on shallow flats, or paddle offshore to the kelp beds. If you feel uncomfortable paddling with a double-bladed paddle, then a pedal kayak may be more to your taste and abilities. Yet another option is a kayak with a small, battery-operated trolling motor, which lets you cover more water and even work into the wind.
The kayak is an affordable way to explore backcountry waters.
On a kayak, the fly line can be stripped right onto the deck without your having to worry about hanging up on boat cleats or other obstacles.
A sea anchor will help you stay in position if you’re fishing structure or around kelp beds. On the flats, a small anchor can help keep you in one spot.
If you do opt for a kayak, consider using a longer fly rod, preferably a nine and a half-footer. A rod this long will help keep your line off the water on your backcast and enable you to make longer casts.
One of the hottest new methods of angling for saltwater fish on the fly rod is from a stand-up paddleboard (SUP). Southern California fishermen have been fishing off their surfboards for years, but the recent SUP rage has created all sorts of venues for the more progressive saltwater fly fisher. Besides providing easier portability, the paddleboard gives you a better platform from which to spot, sneak up on, and cast to fish.
The SUP is an extremely versatile fishing platform, a craft you can launch anywhere, and all you need for transport is a cartop rack or a pickup truck. Much lighter than a kayak, the SUP is at home in shallow waters inaccessible by boat or in deepwater areas not frequented by the general public (simply toss it into a boat and take it where you want to go).
Outfit the SUP the same as you would a kayak, using a fishing box specifically designed for fly fishing, with a rod holder and places for your paddle, fly box, and other tackle. You can also build one to your own specifications.
If you use an SUP on a regular basis, you’ll notice that your waistline will benefit. Paddling an SUP, whether kneeling or standing, is a great workout. Cancel that gym membership. Now you’ve got another excuse to go fishing … you’re exercising!
The SUP allows for better sight casting than a sit-in kayak.
As with kayak fishing, it takes some time to master the art of SUP fly fishing. You have to keep in mind, for example, that you will be pushed by the wind, so you need to be aware of your drift and compensate accordingly. Calm, glassy waters are best for the SUP, but offshore is not out of the question. In time, you’ll really come to appreciate the benefits of an SUP.
In one respect, casting from a boat is easier, especially if the boat is stable enough for you to stand in, because you have more elevation above the water, so it’s easier to pick up line and it’s easier to keep your back cast high. However, boats present their own challenges, and if you’re prepared to deal with them, your time on the water will be easier.
First, most boats are full of cleats and seats and other gear that can grab your fly line when you make a cast. Try to remove as many obstructions as possible around your feet, or cover them with a wet towel or a piece of mesh if they can’t be moved. Whereas most of us are pretty casual about where we strip our line when wading, when casting from a boat it helps if you pay more attention to where each length of line is placed when you’re stripping it in. Some anglers like to use a stripping basket in a boat, which is a device used to catch all your excess line after stripping it in. A plastic trash bucket can be used as a stripping basket in a pinch—just fill it with a little water to keep it weighted down and to keep your fly line slick.
Ordinarily, the right-hander in the stern of this boat would be casting in the other direction so he could watch the other angler’s back cast and not cast over the head of the guide in the middle. But all three of these guys are guides so they’ll probably be OK.
You must also pay attention to the living obstructions in a boat. For instance, in a drift boat, where there is typically an angler in the bow and one in the stern with the guide sitting between the two, the territory over the length of the boat is a forbidden land—in other words, never cast straight in front of or straight behind a boat unless you want a very unhappy guide. And with two anglers casting at the same time, even if they are casting to different sides of the boat, it’s very easy to tangle the back cast of one angler with the forward cast of the other. It’s always the responsibility of the caster in the stern to watch out for trouble because the angler in the bow can’t see what is going on behind him.
