Though you first start seeing them in the market as early as July, peak pomegranate season typically begins around Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year—usually in September—and lasts through January. By then the fruit, some type of which has been grown in these parts for thousands of years, is bursting with plump seeds, with every last one yielding a deep reddish, mildly tannic, and perfectly sweet-tart, earthy juice. Pomegranates represent many things in the Jewish tradition—fertility and abundance among them—and in the shuk, selling the juice is a year-round business. When the fruit is in peak season, the savviest vendors extract gallon after gallon of juice, freeze it, then defrost it to sell and serve until another year’s worth of their most precious commodity arrives.
To evoke the essence of pomegranates year-round, make or buy pomegranate molasses; a small drizzle adds sweet-and-sour acidity wherever it’s used. If you’re buying, look for a pure product without artificial coloring; sometimes, if it’s too brilliantly purplish-red, it may be too good to be true. I make my own, starting with (ideally) fresh or bottled pure pomegranate juice with a little honey added. The honey helps balance and round out the texture, since the juice needs time to slowly evaporate without burning.
Makes 1 scant cup
Active Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 55 to 60 minutes
4 cups pure pomegranate juice
2 tablespoons honey
In a small (2- or 3-quart) saucepan, whisk the pomegranate juice and honey together. Bring to a low boil over medium-high heat, then boil until the syrup is reduced to 2 cups (I like to keep a measuring cup nearby and quickly pour the syrup in to gauge the volume), about 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer, stirring occasionally, until the molasses begins to thicken and small bubbles form all over the top (this is how you know you’re getting somewhere). Reduce the heat a little more and continue to simmer until the liquid is visibly thickened but not as thick as honey (it will thicken as it cools); the bubbles will become foamy and small—this is how you know you’re just about ready.
Turn off the heat and slip a spoon into the molasses; it will still drip off the spoon, but if you run your finger over the back of the spoon, a distinct stripe will form. Transfer to a jar to cool. Stored in an airtight container, pomegranate molasses will last for up to 6 months.