Lemony Cauliflower over Labaneh

At restaurants all over Israel, you’ll find a plate of simply fried (well, deep-fried) cauliflower, or cruvit, its edges crisp, its sweetness intensified by the high heat. I oven-roast the cauliflower instead and add a generous lashing of freshly squeezed lemon juice before roasting, which helps that lemony punch permeate every bite. I like to have a lot of cauliflower “crumbs,” little pieces that turn dark and golden upon contact with high heat and oil. Serving the warm cauliflower over the cool, creamy labaneh allows you to multiply exponentially the number of textures and flavors you get in one bite.

Serves 4

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 40 minutes

1 medium head cauliflower, leaves trimmed

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1 teaspoon chopped fresh jalapeños, or ¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

¼ cup dried barberries, chopped dried cranberries, or pomegranate seeds

¼ cup toasted pine nuts

1 small garlic clove, very finely minced

¾ cup 4-Hour Labaneh (or store-bought) or Greek yogurt, for serving

Chopped fresh chives, cilantro, or parsley, for serving

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Halve the cauliflower through the core and stem. Using a sharp knife, cut the florets into varying sizes, making sure there are some really small pieces. Slice any tender stem parts into tiny pieces, too. In a medium bowl toss the cauliflower with the olive oil, half the lemon juice and zest, the salt, black pepper, and jalapeños. Spread evenly on a large rimmed baking sheet and roast until the edges begin to char, 20 minutes. Using a spatula, scrape the cauliflower to move it around, then roast until the cauliflower is crispy and dark golden, another 10 minutes (it’s OK if some of the smaller pieces are really charred—that’s kind of the point!). Remove from the oven, sprinkle the remaining lemon juice and zest all over the cauliflower right on the pan, add the barberries and pine nuts, toss, and season with salt and black pepper to taste.

To serve, stir the garlic and labaneh in a medium bowl until incorporated, spread on a medium plate, and top with the cauliflower. Season with additional salt and pepper, drizzle generously with olive oil, and garnish with chives.