Mushroom Arayes with Yogurt Sauce

A night in the garden at M25 steakhouse, in the shuk, where our friend Jonathan Borowitz is co-owner and chef, always starts with their arayes, a Lebanese-inspired dish of raw ground meat stuffed into pitas and grilled. I was shocked at how well mushrooms worked in an arayes-style dish made in mini-pitas. Similar to the meat version, the filling cooks up juicy and flavorful, a perfect handheld snack that starts with the simplest white button mushrooms. I tried it with fancier versions, but I actually prefer these; they keep their shape and texture after cooking without trying to pretend like they’re meat at all.

Makes 8 arayes

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

YOGURT SAUCE

1 cup full-fat yogurt

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs of your choice

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

ARAYES

2 pounds button mushrooms, trimmed

1 medium onion, finely minced

3 tablespoons finely minced garlic

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing the pitas

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or cilantro

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

Scant 1 teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 to 10 mini pitas, depending on the size of the pitas

24-Hour Salted Lemon Spread, tahini, and Honey Harissa, for serving

Make the yogurt sauce: In a medium bowl combine the yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil, herbs, and salt. Chill until ready to use.

Make the arayes: On the large holes of a box grater set over a bowl, or in the bowl of a food processor with the coarse grating blade (larger holes) attached, grate the mushrooms. Add the onion, garlic, olive oil, parsley, cumin, salt, paprika, and pepper. Split the pitas, leaving them connected at one end. Preheat a grill, grill pan, or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Working four at a time, divide the filling evenly among the pitas, pressing down lightly so the pita adheres to the filling. Brush the outsides of the pitas with oil and grill the arayes until each side is charred and the filling is hot, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Slice the arayes in half if desired and serve with the yogurt sauce, lemon condiment, tahini, and harissa.