THE YORKSHIRE WOLDS WAY NATIONAL TRAIL

The Yorkshire Wolds rise lush and green from the muddy brown shore of the Humber Estuary, and roll gently northwards before falling abruptly into the North Sea between Filey and Bridlington. The wolds are merely the northernmost extent of a broad band of chalk that stretches the length of England to Kent and Dorset. The chalk appears as sheer cliffs at Flamborough Head, but inland it forms a gently sloping tableland. This is covered by a huge patchwork quilt of intensively cultivated fields cut by a maze of steep-sided grassy dales, the latter used for grazing sheep and occasionally cattle or horses. The landscape is sparsely dotted with small villages and widely spaced farms — water was always in short supply, so no large towns could be supported.

The bedrock of the Yorkshire Wolds is porous chalk, laid down in the Cretaceous period some 70—100 million years ago. Although the land does not readily support flowing water, glacial melt-water flowed vigorously after the ice age and cut many valleys deep into the landscape. Flint occurs as nodules in beds of chalk and is easily spotted whenever the land is ploughed. The first settlers used flint for sharp-edged scrapers, blades and arrowheads. Several ancient settlement sites occur on the wolds, along with burial mounds and as yet unexplained earthworks. There are also deserted village sites, either abandoned during the Black Death of the 14th century or fallen idle due to changes in agricultural practices. The wolds are fertile, but as the soil is relatively dry and thin it is mostly planted with grain and oilseed rape rather than root crops, and colours change throughout the seasons. Towns are found on the lower ground, away from the wolds themselves, where water was more easily obtained.

Local members of the Ramblers’ Association first suggested back in 1969 that a Wolds Way should be established, and in the same year East Riding County Council agreed that such a route should exist. The route had gained approval by 1971, but it wasn’t until 1982 that it was finally declared open. Despite gaining national trail status the Wolds Way has always been one of the quietest of Britain’s long-distance walking routes. The scenery is charming and interesting, but lacks the drama of high mountains, open moorlands, sheer cliffs and wilderness. In 2004 the route was renamed the Yorkshire Wolds Way with the intention of re-launching it in the public awareness. While it would be no bad thing for more walkers to experience and appreciate the route, as well as the wider Yorkshire Wolds, it has to be said that facilities such as accommodation, food and drink are sparse or absent over long stretches. However, such problems can be overcome with careful planning and the route can be enjoyed with relative ease.

Waymarks for the route are the standard national trail acorn logo, along with directional arrows. Signposts may simply read Wolds Way, or they may also include one of the next destinations along the trail. Keep up-to-date with developments and diversions by checking the website www.nationaltrail.co.uk/yorkshirewoldsway, and obtain a current copy of the Yorkshire Wolds Way Accommodation and Information Guide from tourist information centres.

Wharram Percy is the most famous of the deserted villages in the Yorkshire Wolds (Day 5)