To SeeKnown for its beautiful beaches and vibrant cultural offerings, Manatee County is on the south shore of Tampa Bay and stretches deep inland, encompassing massive ranches and farmlands that are important contributors to Florida’s economy. This region has deep roots in the past, with archaeological sites that date back thousands of years and historic sites from the earliest pioneer settlement of Florida. It is the landing site of Spanish explorer Hernando De Soto, who in 1539 arrived with his troops near the mouth of Tampa Bay in search of gold. Near the end of the Second Seminole War in 1841, Josiah Gates arrived by boat and homesteaded along the river in the area now known as Old Manatee. Major Robert Gamble established his 3,500-acre sugar plantation along the Manatee River in 1843. By 1855, enough people had settled around the river for Manatee County to be formed from southern Hillsborough County.
After the Civil War, settlers streamed into the interior to establish cattle ranches, citrus groves, and large farms in places such as Parrish and Miakka (now Myakka), leading to a local agricultural boom. The city of Bradenton grew up around the Civil War–era village of Manatee, with businesses lining downtown avenues and imposing Victorian homes built across the river in Palmetto. Rivers define Manatee County—Little Manatee at its northern end, the Manatee River between Ellenton and Bradenton, and the Braden River to the south.
The barrier islands of Manatee County have been a vacation destination for savvy Floridians for generations. Inhabited in ancient times by Timucua and, more recently, Calusa; explored by the Spanish in the early 1500s; and permanently settled after Florida gained statehood in the 1800s, Anna Maria Island has three charming villages—Anna Maria, Holmes Beach, and Bradenton Beach—with a mix of old-fashioned seaside residential communities, motels, and low-rise condo complexes (thanks to an ordinance prohibiting buildings from being more than three stories tall). Miles of public beaches offer easy access and free parking. Longboat Key is split across neighboring Sarasota County. It’s primarily residential—including the site of the original historic village at the north end—and boasts superb beaches, resort and beach-home rentals, and some classic motels.
GUIDANCE Florida’s Gulf Islands (www.floridasgulfislands.com) is the official tourism Web site for the Bradenton Area Convention & Visitors Bureau (941-729-9177 x231), P.O. Box 1000, Bradenton, FL 34206, and encompasses activities throughout the county. Walk-in information is available at the Manatee County Tourist Information Center (941-729-7040), 5461 Factory Shops Blvd., Ellenton, at Prime Outlet Center and the Anna Maria Island Chamber of Commerce (941-778-1541; www.amichamber.org), 5313 Gulf Dr. N, Holmes Beach.
GETTING THERE By car: I-75, US 19, US 301, and US 41 provide primary access to the region.
By air: Sarasota Bradenton International Airport (941-FLY-2-SRQ; www.srq-airport.com) has regular service by nine major carriers, including Air Canada, AirTran, Delta, and US Airways.
GETTING AROUND By car: US 19 south from I-275 (Sunshine Skyway) leads you through Terra Ceia and Palmetto before ending in Bradenton. US 41 south crosses I-275 to connect Palmetto, Bradenton, and Sarasota. US 301 sweeps in from the northwest through Parrish, Ellenton, and Palmetto to Bradenton en route to Sarasota. Use SR 64 (Manatee Ave.) to reach the northwest corner of the county and to get to Bradenton and Anna Maria Island. CR 789 runs north-south down the islands, connecting Anna Maria Island with Bradenton Beach and Longboat Key. SR 70 is the southernmost east-west route in the county, from South Bradenton to Myakka City. CR 684 (Cortez Rd.) passes through the old fishing village of Cortez to reach Bradenton Beach, crossing one of the oldest manned drawbridges along the Intracoastal Waterway.
By bus: Manatee County Area Transit (941-747-8621; www.mymanatee.org) has 10 routes with hourly bus service between Bradenton, Ellenton, Palmetto, and the Gulf Islands communities 6 AM to 7 PM Monday through Saturday. Fare $1.25, transfers $.25, discounts for seniors and students. Routes connect with the free trolley on Anna Maria Island.
By trolley: A free trolley service is offered on Anna Maria Island between the City Pier and Coquina Beach, 6 AM to 10:30 PM daily. The Longboat Key Trolley runs from Coquina Beach at the south end of Anna Maria Island to downtown Sarasota. Daily service every 30 minutes from 6 AM to 11 PM. Fare $.75.
By taxi: Yellow Cab of Bradenton (941-748-4800), Diplomat Taxi (941-365-8294).
PUBLIC RESTROOMS Beachfront parks include public restrooms and changing areas.
PARKING Beachgoers rejoice! Parking is free at natural-surface lots on Anna Maria Island, Bradenton Beach, and Longboat Key. Downtown Bradenton has metered spaces.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES Manatee Memorial Hospital (941-746-5111; www.manateememorial.com), 206 Second St., East Bradenton.
To SeeAQUARIUM 
Yes, you can see manatees in Manatee County at the 60,000 gallon Parker Manatee Aquarium, part of the educational complex at the South Florida Museum (see Museums). Home to three adult manatees, including the museum’s mascot “Snooty,” it is an accredited second stage rehabilitation facility for injured manatees to be returned to the wild.
At Shaw’s Point, now inside De Soto National Memorial (see Historic Sites), archaeologist S. T. Walker discovered a shell mound in 1879 that had been created by an early culture along the shores of Tampa Bay, complete with fire pits. The mound was nearly 600 feet long and 20 feet high at its highest. Despite the discovery of pottery shards within the mound, there was no government protection for such important artifacts back then. By the 1930s, the mound had been pulled apart and trucked away for road fill. If you walk the trail to Shaw’s Point, you’ll see the bleached oyster shells that were once a part of this large mound. Together with adjacent Riverview Pointe Preserve, the area is known as the Shaw’s Point Archaeological District and was inhabited between 356 B.C. and A.D. 110.
At Emerson Point Preserve (see Parks), stop at the Portavant Temple Mound to capture a bit of prehistory. This flat-topped mound along the Manatee River is 150 feet long and 80 feet wide, and it once commanded a spectacular view, now obscured by centuries-old oaks. More than 1,000 years ago, a village of the ancestors of the Timucua sat on this site. A smaller rounded subsidiary mound and several middens are scattered throughout the forest.
Purchased and preserved by Karl and Madira Bickel in 1948, the ancient ceremonial mound now encompassed by Madira Bickel Mound Archaeological State Park (941-723-4536; www.floridastateparks.org/madirabickelmound) was the first designated state archaeological site in Florida. A paved concrete path winds through the palm hammock to a set of stairs leading to the top of the 20-foot-tall temple mound along Terra Ceia Bay. Paleoindian, Weedon Island, and Safety Harbor culture artifacts have been unearthed on the site, which is located off US 19 east 1.3 miles along Bayshore Drive.
An artist’s colony just outside downtown, the Village of the Arts (941-747-8056; www.artistsguildofmanatee.org), between Ninth St. W and 14th St. W, south of Milk Ave., is a working artists’ neighborhood of colorful historic bungalows, with a mix of studios, galleries, and housing. With an Artwalk on the first Friday and Saturday of each month and regular “open shopping” hours of 11 AM–4 PM Saturday, it’s a great place to shop for unique and whimsical art direct from the artists.
Grab some fun at KK’s ARTique (941-383-0883), 5360 Gulf of Mexico Dr., where appealing scenes of Sarasota mingle with classy art glass, mirror mosaics, fiber craft, and pottery.
BASEBALL Every spring, the Pittsburgh Pirates head to historic McKechnie Field (941-747-3031; www.mlb.com/spring_training/ballpark.jsp?c_id=pit), 1611 Ninth St. W, Bradenton, which was originally built for them in 1923 and named for Pittsburgh native, Bradenton resident, and Hall of Fame manager Bill McKechnie. The ballpark can handle more than 6,000 fans, and it’s a busy place when the Pirates are in town. Pirate City (941-747-3031), 1701 27th St. E, is the official training facility.
EQUESTRIAN EVENTS One of the best-kept secrets in this area are the shows presented by Herrmann’s Royal Lipizzan Stallions (941-322-1501; www.hlipizzans.com), 32755 Singletary Rd., Myakka City. Colonel Herrman assisted General George Patton in smuggling the horses out of Austria during World War II, and his heirs continue the tradition of training the horses in leaps and plunges, and touring the stallions throughout the world. Their winter home encompasses 200 acres; brood mares live here full time. See these powerful and graceful stallions with their trainers. Shows are presented Thursday through Friday at 3 PM and Saturday at 10 AM. Private riding lessons are available October through mid-May by appointment.
Built in 1910, the Anna Maria City Pier anchors the north end of the island and looks out over Tampa Bay. On a clear day, you can see Egmont Key, Fort De Soto, and the Sunshine Skyway Bridge in the distance. In addition to providing a place to fish, the pier has a restaurant where you can savor the view.
CROSS MARKING THE LANDING OF HERNANDO DE SOTO
Sandra Friend
Commemorating Spanish explorer Hernando De Soto’s arrival at Tampa Bay in 1539, De Soto National Memorial (941-792-0458 x105; www.nps.gov/deso), end of 75th Ave., at Shaw’s Point, was commissioned in 1940 as the probable landing site of the Spanish fleet. In addition to Uzita, a replica Spanish camp with living-history interpreters, and a visitors center with artifacts, exhibits, and a video on De Soto’s expedition, the park has more than a mile of trails leading through the mangrove fringe to various points of historic interest. Cattle were shipped from the peninsula during the 1800s and U.S. Navy blockaders used the point as a lookout post during the Civil War. As you walk the path along the Manatee River, you’ll encounter the Holy Eucharist Monument, commissioned by the Diocese of St. Augustine in 1960 as a Catholic memorial in honor of De Soto. The nearby Memorial Cross remembers the 12 priests who accompanied De Soto on the expedition. Open 9 AM–5 PM daily. Free.
Florida Heritage District signs on SR 64 at 27th St. E direct you to Braden Castle Park, the site of the first Tin Can Tourist Camp in Florida and the former homestead of Dr. Joseph Braden. There isn’t much left of his old tabby castle, but the view of the Manatee River is spectacular. The ruins are in the middle of a quaint village of tiny bungalows dating from 1924. It is still an active retirement community, so please be respectful when you visit, and don’t block driveways or bother people.
At Manatee Village Historical Park (941-741-4075; www.manateeclerk.com/ClerkServices/HisVill/mchvillage.htm), 1404 Manatee Ave. E, explore historic landmarks brought here for preservation, such as the Bat Fogarty Boat Works, the Bunker Hill School, the Stephens House, and Wiggins Store. Open 9 AM–4:30 PM Mon.–Fri. and the second Sat. of each month. Free. Behind the park (on an adjacent tract outside the fence) is the city’s oldest cemetery, the 1815 Manatee Burying Ground, where most of the county’s earliest settlers are buried. The nearby business district at Ninth St. E and SR 64 is the heart of Old Manatee, the first settlement in the county. Josiah Gates claimed his homestead here along the river in 1841.
Most of downtown Bradenton is a business district from the 1920s boom, but the city itself was founded as Braidenton in 1878. Watch for the Heritage District signs near 12th St. W directing you to the Italianate Post Office and the Bradenton Carnegie Library (941-741-4070), 1405 Fourth Ave. W, established in 1918 by Andrew Carnegie and an important repository of the early history of the region.
Downtown Bradenton Beach is a quaint historic district with homes and businesses dating from the turn of the last century. At the end of Bridge Street, walk down the newly restored Bridge Street Pier, once part of the original plank bridge that was the only access to Anna Maria Island for nearly 40 years.
With homes and boathouses dating back to the late 1800s, the Cortez Fishing Village (www.cortezvillage.org) is on the National Register of Historic Places; a walking tour map is available on their Web site.
BRADENTON BEACH PIER
Sandra Friend
That imposing antebellum home along US 301 is indeed the southernmost remaining example of an architecture common along Florida’s rivers in the early 1800s. Flanked by three-hundred-year-old oaks, the grand entrance to the Gamble Plantation Historic State Park (941-723-4536; www.floridastateparks.org/gambleplantation), 3708 Patten Ave., evokes Tara. Established in 1843 by Major Robert Gamble, the 3,500-acre sugar plantation along the Manatee River needed a grand estate home. Built of tabby (a mix of oyster shells and lime) with walls 2 feet thick, this Greek Revival mansion was designed to trap cool air like a cave and to utilize rainwater cisterns for fresh water. The plantation played a pivotal role at the end of the Civil War, when Confederate Secretary of State Judah P. Benjamin disguised himself as a French journalist, “M. Bonfal,” and fled to Florida. Capt. Archibald McNeil, the plantation owner in 1865, hid his famous guest until arrangements could be made for a boat to Nassau. Both men had to flee to elude capture, but Benjamin succeeded in escaping the United States and went on to have a long career in law in London.
In 1925 the United Daughters of the Confederacy purchased the land and donated it to the state with the proviso that it be designated the Judah P. Benjamin Confederate Memorial. Now restored to its original glory, the home features period furnishings and artwork and is one of the few remaining examples of a Florida antebellum plantation. The UDC restored and maintains the Patten House (circa 1895) on the grounds of the state park, open by appointment and during special events. The state park has a nominal entrance fee, and there is an additional fee for a guided tour of the home.
Blue historic markers along the sidewalks paralleling Broadway Street denote key homes and businesses in the original Village of Longbeach (www.longbeachvillage.com) founded in 1885. There are still many quaint cottages on the side streets, but most of the historic village has been replaced by modern upscale homes.
At the Palmetto Historical Park (941-723-4991; www.manateeclerk.com/ClerkServices/HisVill/palmetto_park.htm), 515 10th Ave. W, experience a 1920 kindergarten schoolroom, peek into the town’s first freestanding post office from 1880, and visit the military museum in the Cypress House. The 1914 Carnegie Library has an extensive amount of genealogical and historical information, as well as one of the few basements in the region—it was a requirement for the grant for the library to be built. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Fri. and on the first and third Sat. each month. Free.
While there’s little left of the original village save an enclave of rural homesteads, Terra Ceia (north of Palmetto, off US 19) has two distinctive historic sites—the old Palmetto Elementary School and the post office (circa 1891) at the corner of Terra Ceia Drive and Center Road.
At the Anna Maria Island Historical Museum (941-778-0492; www.amihs.org), 402 Pine Ave., you can pose inside the Old City Jail (no prisoners, no windows!) with a jailbird costume on, or go on a scavenger hunt with the kids for baby turtles, shark’s teeth, and more. Open Tues.–Sat. 10 AM–1 PM (May–Sept.) and 10 AM–4 PM (Oct.–Apr.). Free.
On the campus of Manatee Community College, the Family Heritage House Museum (941-752-5319; www.familyheritagehouse.com), 5840 26th St. W, is a gallery and resource center for the study of African American achievements, as well as part of the National Underground Railroad “Network to Freedom” program, with extensive research materials. Open Tues.–Thurs. 11 AM–6 PM, Sat. by appointment.
The South Florida Museum (941-746-4131; www.southfloridamuseum.org), 201 10th St. W, is one of Florida’s more intriguing collections of archaeological and historic interest. While you’ll hear a lot about Snooty, the museum’s resident manatee (see Aquarium), the real treasure here is the amazing Tallant Collection of Paleoindian artifacts, including many excavated from mounds near Lake Okeechobee. In the Great Hall, a series of dioramas on Florida’s long prehistory and history usher you back to the Tallant Gallery, where golden icons, pottery shards, and precious metal jewelry are on display. The 60,000-gallon Parker Manatee Aquarium is Snooty’s home, where you’ll learn about manatees and their part in Florida’s ecosystems. In the Spanish Plaza, a replica home (to scale, where you’ll learn how short early explorers were) shows off life as it was in Spain when Hernando De Soto came to these shores in the 1500s. The main floor also features the Bishop Planetarium and Discovery Place, a hands-on workshop for kids. Upperfloor exhibits focus on regional history. Stop by the museum store on your way out to purchase replicas from the Tallant Collection, books, and great games and toys for the kids. Open daily 10 AM–5 PM Mon.–Sat., 12 PM–5 PM Sun. during Jan.–Apr., July; closed Mon. in May–June and Aug.–Dec. Adults $15.95, seniors $13.75, ages 4–12 $11.75, under 4 free.
The Manatee County Agricultural Museum (941-721-2034; www.manateeclerk.com/clerkservices/hisvill/ag_museum.htm), 1015 Sixth St. W, presents an excellent overview of the history of agriculture in this region, from citrus groves to commercial fishing. Did you know, for instance, that the region was famous for gladiolas in the 1920s? And this was the first place that pink grapefruit was bred? Five galleries present artifacts, photos, tools, and exhibits explaining how farming built this county. Junior Agriculture activities provide fun stuff for the kids to do, such as mazes and puzzles. It’s located in the Palmetto Historical Park (see Historic Sites) and shares the same hours. Free.
RAILROADIANA At the Florida Railroad Museum (1-877-869-0800; www.frrm.org), 83rd St. E off US 301, Parrish, the museum is the train, run by volunteers, and it operates every weekend on a 6-mile stretch of original Seaboard Air Line Railroad track from Parrish north to the town of Willow near the Little Manatee River. Choose from air-conditioned coaches or open-air cars as the locomotive takes you on a smooth two-hour ride. Departures are at 11 AM and 2 PM. Adults $12, ages 3–11 $8, under 3 free. A small gift shop is tucked away in rolling stock on a siding.
WINERY In the rolling hills near Lake Manatee, Rosa Fiorelli Winery (941-322-0976; www.fiorelliwinery.com), 4250 CR 675, brings authentic Italian winemaking to Florida. Moving from Sicily, the family established vineyards in an area that “felt like home.” They offer free wine tastings, or you can sign up for a tour (fee) or a tour with a delicious Italian luncheon or buffet ($17–23). Open 10 AM–5:30 PM Mon. and Wed.–Sat., 12 PM–5 PM Sun.
To DoBIRDING The secret sweet spot for birding on Anna Maria Island is well away from the crowd at the northern residential tip of the island, where the beach can be up to 300 feet wide, attracting flocks of colony birds such as terns, skimmers, and gulls. Park at Bayfront Beach Park and walk up Bay Street to the pathway leading to the beach. Scan the salt marsh at Robinson Preserve (941-748-4501 x4602), 1690 99th St. in Bradenton, from the top of the observation tower. I’ve also had great success at Terra Ceia, where flashes of pink on the mudflats of Terra Ceia Preserve State Park (941-721-2068, www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/recreation/areas/terraceia.html) mean roseate spoonbills are feeding. For sightings of Florida scrub jays, head west to Rye Preserve (941-776-0900), 905 Rye Wilderness Trail, for a trek through scrub habitats along the Little Manatee River.
BOATING For a spin on Sarasota Bay, rent your own runabout, deck boat, or open skiff at Cannons Marina (941-383-1311; www.cannons.com), 6040 Gulf of Mexico Dr., Longboat Key, with rates running from $160 for a half day to $440 for a full day. You are required to put down a $200 security deposit and are responsible for gas and oil.
FLORIDA RAILROAD MUSEUM
Sandra Friend
ECOTOURS With so many natural areas to explore, more and more nature tour operators are showcasing the best of the beach, the bays, and the interior forests. A freebie the kids will love is a walk with the Anna Maria Island Turtle Watch (941-778-5638; www.islandturtles.com) 2213 Ave. B Bradenton Beach, a volunteer group that monitors turtle nesting. Guided walks are offered each June through August, call for reservations. Around the Bend Ecotours (941-794-8773; www.aroundthebend.com), 1815 Palma Sola Blvd., takes groups on a variety of adventures in local natural areas. One week, it may be a dig at Manatee Mineral Springs, another trip a journey into pioneer history out on the open prairie. Tours are led by certified Florida Master Naturalists. Shawn at Native Rentals (see Watersports) is now offering kayak tours, too. He’s an Anna Maria Island native and knows the sweet spots, whether you’re watching wildlife or casting for redfish.
FAMILY ACTIVITIES Did you ever wonder where your milk comes from? Treat the family to a day on the farm at Dakin Dairy Farms (941-322-2802; www.dakindairyfarms.com), 30771 Betts Rd., Myakka City. Take a self-guided tour through the dairy on weekdays or a guided tour on Saturdays. Feed the goats, pet the farm animals, and just plain play outdoors—there’s a fossil dig, hay tunnels, and cow train rides for fun, plus a farm market for Mom and Dad to browse for fresh local produce and dairy products. Don’t forget the ice cream! Open Mon.–Sat. 10–5. While Hunsader Farms (941-331-1212; www.hunsaderfarms.com), 5500 CR 675, Bradenton is a popular U-Pick destination, they also have a petting zoo in their barnyard, a playground for the kids, and picnic space for families. Their Pumpkin Festival and Country Christmas draw big crowds. Open mid-Sept.–mid-June. At Napier’s Family Farm and Animal Rescue (941-750-8185; www.napierfamilyfarm.com), 20010 E SR 64, the children can ride a pony or visit with rescued horses, some of which are up for adoption. Trail rides are offered for a $25 donation.
FISHING No angler should miss the historic Cortez Fishing Village (off Cortez Rd.), where Annie’s Bait & Tackle (see Eating Out), 127th St. W, is the smart stop to ask around for a captain who knows these waters well. Departing from Catchers Marina (941-778-1977), 5501 Marina Dr., Holmes Beach, Anna Maria Island Fishing Charters (941-778-4498; www.fishtampawaters.com) offers inshore and nearshore excursions with local expert Captain Tom Chaya. Both historic piers on the islands draw visitors who want to drop a line in the bay—the Anna Maria City Pier (941-779-1667), 100 S Bay Blvd., and the Bridge Street Pier at Bradenton Beach. In Palmetto, the Green Bridge Fishing Pier is a part of the old Green Bridge over the Manatee River. To enjoy a quiet day casting the shallows along the mangrove-lined shores, head out with Paddle & Cast Kayak Fishing Tours (941-228-0530), 7224 7th Ave. NW, Bradenton.
GOLF 
One of America’s top golf courses is the Legacy Golf Club at Lakewood Ranch (941-907-7067; www.legacygolfclub.com), 8255 Legacy Blvd., a par 72 Arnold Palmer signature course where nearly every hole is framed by sand and water. The fairways are 360 feet wide, providing expansive views. Fees range from $49–99 and include cart with cooler and ice, greens fee, tees, yardage card, and warm-up practice balls. The club offers a variety of instructional courses, including the “Uncomplicated Golf” School.
HIKING As regional conservation efforts have put more land into the public trust, the availability of hiking trails has expanded. Virtually all listings under Green Space and Wild Places provide day hiking. Some of my favorites include Coquina Baywalk, Emerson Point Preserve, and Rye Wilderness Park.
PADDLING Nearly 75 miles of Blueway trails are now a part of the Paddle Manatee program (www.co.manatee.fl.us/paddle.html), which includes the Terra Ceia Paddling Trail, Manatee River Paddling Trail, Braden River Paddling Trail, and Sarasota Bay Paddling Trail. Contact the county for a free comprehensive guide, which includes access points, points of interest, and maps. For a guided trip or a rental, launch with Almost Heaven Kayak Adventures (941-504-6296; www.kayakfl.com). Enjoy a trip down the twisting, winding scenic Little Manatee River with Canoe Outpost (813-634-2228; www.canoeoutpost.com), 18001 US 301 S, Wimauma. At Ray’s Canoe Hideway (941-747-3909, 1-888-57CANOE; www.rayscanoehideaway.com), 1247 Hagle Park Rd., head out on an adventure on the Upper Manatee River into Rye Wilderness Park. Rent their canoes or kayaks ($25–50) or launch your own.
SCENIC DRIVE Following coastal highways and byways from the Sunshine Skyway Bridge over Tampa Bay to the southern tip of Manasota Key, the Gulf Coast Heritage Trail leads you on some of the region’s most scenic roads. More than one hundred points of interest are detailed on the brochure and map. Watch for the distinctive brown signs for key points of interest. For a copy of the map, contact a tourism center (see Guidance).
SEGWAY TOURS I didn’t believe it until I tried it—a Segway really does balance your weight, no matter how you lean! Manatee Segway Tours (941-224-8079; www.manateesegwaytours.com) provides a training session before you head out on one of their three guided trips along Bradenton’s Riverfront. The hour-long tours are offered daily, $35–65 and are by reservation only.
SWIMMING The Gulf of Mexico is shallow and warm, so the beaches along Anna Maria Island, Bradenton Beach, and Longboat Key attract splashers, waders, and swimmers along with sun worshippers. For family fun, G. T. Bray Park (941-742-5923), 502 33rd Ave. Dr. W, Bradenton, offers an Olympic-sized swimming pool and a splash park with lifeguards on duty.
TRAIL RIDING Across from Lake Manatee State Park (see Parks), Lake Manatee Stables (941-746-3697), SR 64, Rye, offers trail riding on the park’s trail system. For something completely different, try a little “horse surfing” with Great World Ecotours (941-650-1820 or 1-800-807-7656; www.greatworldway.com), 8374 Market St., Lakewood Ranch. They’ll not only outfit you for a small group trail ride at one of the many area preserves but they offer horseback riding on the beach, where you can swim with the horses and surf with them, too!
WALKING TOURS The Manatee Riverwalk is a designated walking tour that covers historic sites in Palmetto, Bradenton, and Village of the Arts. Contact the chamber of commerce (see Guidance) for a brochure and map.
WATER SPORTS On Anna Maria Island, visit Native Rentals (941-778-7757; www.mysitontopkayak.com), 5416 Marina Dr., where they have ocean kayaks, snorkeling and fishing gear, giant bicycles, and body boards for rent.
Green SpaceBEACHES For a taste of Old Florida, the beaches of Florida’s Gulf Islands are as authentic as they come. They hearken back to the earliest days of beach tourism, when beach bungalows and cottages and tiny motels by the sea beckoned families to return year after year. You’ll find no towering condos shading you as you explore the white sand shores. Paralleled by Gulf Drive with numerous access points, the beaches of Anna Maria Island stretch nearly eight miles and are typically lined with dunes topped with sea oats. Since Manatee Beach (941-742-5923), 4000 Gulf Dr., is closest to Bradenton, it tends to get busy. Head farther south to Coquina Beach, 2603 Gulf Dr., on Leffis Key. It’s popular with families thanks to its picnic tables, playground, concessions, and restrooms. The northern end of Longboat Key is a peninsula known as Beer Can Island, a beauty spot overlooking emerald waves. Access it from North Shore Road off Gulf of Mexico Drive. Thanks to its unique shape, it’s the best spot along the shore for shelling.
A unique gateway to the natural communities along the bay, Leffis Key (941-742-5923), 2603 Gulf Dr., protects 17 acres of waterfront. Access to the park is via gentle hiking trails and boardwalks through the mangrove forests and coastal berm, where you can peer out of overlooks across the bay and down into crystal-clear water to watch sea squirts and sponges on the rocks. Free.
A 32-acre oasis on residential Longboat Key, Joan M. Durante Community Park (941-316-1988), 5550 Gulf of Mexico Dr., is a city park with extensive walkways through natural habitats and a man-made wetland, great views of Sarasota Bay, and picnic and playground facilities. Free.
With miles of equestrian trails and plenty of lakefront to keep anglers happy, Lake Manatee State Park (941-741-3028; www.floridastateparks.org/lakemanatee), 20007 SR 64, is a popular recreation area on the remote eastern side of the county. Swimming is permitted in the lake, and there’s a full-facility campground near the lake. Fee.
Encompassing 365 acres at the northern tip of Snead Island, Emerson Point Preserve (941-748-4501 x4602), Tarpon Rd., protects the ancient Portavant Temple Mound (see Archaeological Sites) as well as an interesting mix of habitats, including a rare look at the Tampa Bay estuary from its southern shore. Both a limestone path and a paved biking trail run around the park, and anglers can gain access to Tampa Bay down at the point. Snaking around the island, several hiking-only trails can be strung together with the limestone path for an easy and interesting 2.7-mile walk. Free.
SARASOTA BAY AT LEFFIS KEY
Sandra Friend
PUBLIC GARDEN Preservation of a 10-acre nursery formed what is now the Palma Sola Botanical Park (941-761-2866; www.palmasolabp.com) 9800 17th Ave. NW, in northwest Bradenton. Its location near Palma Sola Bay allows the growth of tropical plants not generally found elsewhere in the county. Open 8 AM–dusk, free.
SPRINGS Once known as Indian Spring, Manatee Mineral Springs, 2nd Ave. E and 14th St. E, is noted by a historic marker in this small neighborhood park in the Old Manatee district of Bradenton, not far from Manatee Village Historic Park (see Historic Sites). A giant black bead tree grows next to the spring.
WILD PLACES Set aside as wilderness for the residents of Manatee County, Duette Preserve (941-776-2295), 2649 Rawls Rd. off SR 64, Duette, encompasses 22,000 acres of sandhills, prairie, river hammocks, and scrub and is the site of an active Florida scrub jay restoration program. It is the prime destination for the region’s deer hunters in the winter and attracts anglers who enjoy fishing in a relaxed wilderness setting. Ongoing restoration of the scrub habitat is bringing back a Florida scrub jay population. Most of the park roads (designated “trails”) are accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicles, but they can be bicycled or hiked. Tent camping, offered Friday through Saturday nights, costs $20/night for up to four people. Fee.
Offering a smorgasbord of short hikes along and around the Upper Manatee River near the Lake Manatee Dam, Rye Wilderness Park (941-776-0900), 905 Rye Wilderness Trail, Rye, also features a tent campground open on weekends for $20 a night. The preserve has upland scrub habitats as well as gorgeous oak hammocks along the river. Free.
LodgingA grand 1925 coquina and cypress beach house surrounded by dunes, the Harrington House Beachfront Bed & Breakfast Inn (941-778-5444 or 1-888-828-5566; www.harringtonhouse.com), 5626 Gulf Dr., comes with all the comforts of home—and more. Borrow a bike or a kayak, or just lie on the beach and read. If it rains, you can watch movies in the living room. And don’t miss breakfast—the food is top-notch, too. There are 8 well-appointed rooms in the Main House, plus numerous rooms and suites in a variety of nearby historic beach houses owned by the family, including bungalows across the street. Seasonal rates range from $149–329 for single rooms, $229–529 for multiroom suites and a Gulf view villa. Children 12 and over welcome.
Tucked under a canopy of trees, Holiday Cove RV Resort (941-792-1111 or 1-800-346-9224; www.holidaycoverv.com), 11900 Cortez Rd. W, is an appealing destination minutes from the beach and seconds from an exploration of the estuary. Take advantage of their boat launch to putter or paddle out to the bay, or relax around the heated pool. The park caters to motor homes, travel trailers, and fifth wheels only, with full hookups on new brick paver 30/50 amp sites; $35–65 daily, with discounted weekly and monthly rates.
Established in 1948, Rolling Waves Cottages (941-383-1323; www.rollingwaves.com), 6351 Gulf of Mexico Dr., is the kind of old-fashioned family beach getaway that I truly treasure. These eight cottages (one-and two-bedroom) are absolutely authentic, a slice of local history tucked under the palms and pines and overlooking the dunes. Each cottage ($175–250) has an updated kitchen, several beds, and large televisions with cable television. Cribs and high chairs available on request; discounts for weekly stays.
The Rod & Reel Resort (941-778-2780; www.rodandreelmotel.com), 877 North Shore Dr., is your basic 1940s Florida motel, refurbished but with no real frills—and appealing as all get out because it’s the kind of place that my family would stay at when I was a kid. Most of the kitchenettes ($114–208) have one double bed, some have two, and they’re all on a nicely landscaped courtyard overlooking the bay. With the historic pier right here and an easy walk to the quiet north end beaches, it’s a great location if you just want to get away and fish or read.
With an architectural style that enhances the old Bridge Street historic district, Bridgewalk (941-779-2545 or 1-866-779-2545; www.silverresorts.com/bridgewalk.asp), 100 Bridge St., offers luxurious modern studios, suites, and townhomes within an easy walk of beach and bay, $132–283. The three-building complex includes the Sun House Restaurant & Bar, a heated pool, and a day spa, and the quaint shops of historic Bradenton Beach are just footsteps away.
Families find a place in the sun at Silver Surf Gulf Beach Resort (941-778-6626 or 1-800-441-7873; www.silverresorts.com/silver_surf.asp), 1301 Gulf Dr. N, where the beach is just across the street and the rooms are spacious enough to accommodate the entire brood. Choose from standard, studio, or suite ($118–193). With bead board–style walls, wicker furnishings, and touches of greenery, it feels like you’re in the islands—and you are! Onsite pool, free beach chairs, and rentals of Vespas, sea kayaks, and sailboards. If you’re eligible, ask for Florida resident pricing.
Settle into the Tortuga Inn Beach Resort (941-867-8842 or 1-877-867-8842; www.tortugainn.com), 1325 Gulf Dr. N, and take advantage of one of the 14 private docks on Sarasota Bay or the expansive beach across the street. The upscale rooms (hotel, studio, suite, or multibedroom luxury apartment, $125–355) center around a tropical courtyard and spacious heated pool.
Charming cottages tucked amid tropical vegetation await you at Tradewinds Resort (941-779-0010 or 1-888-686-6716; www.tradewindsresort.com), 1603 Gulf Dr. N. Although they look like historic Old Florida seaside cottages, they are new and modern, with full amenities and daily housekeeping. Enjoy the beach across the street, or the pool just steps from your door. Choose from studios or one- or two-bedroom units, $125–320 daily or $645–1,095 weekly, with special discounts for Florida residents.
Add some retro zing! to your vacation with a stay at Haley’s Motel (941-778-5405 or 1-800-367-7824; www.haleysmotel.com), 8102 Gulf Dr., where owners Tom Buehler and Sabine Musil-Buehler celebrated this classic resort’s 50th anniversary in 2003. From the glass block corners and brightly painted doors to the tropical birds in their cages, this is a very eclectic and fun place. Tuck yourself into one of the updated-but-period 1950s rooms, or pick one of the neatly renovated rooms, studios, or apartments. Lounge at the pool, or read a book by the frog pond in the secret garden. Bikes and beach accoutrements free to guests. All pets welcome! The 14 units of varying configurations start at $119, with weekly rates available.
THE RETRO HALEYS MOTEL
Sandra Friend
An old-fashioned family seaside motel, the White Sands Beach Resort (941-778-2577; www.whitesandsbeachresort.com), 6504 Gulf Dr., has rooms to fit every size group, with full kitchens, tiled floors, big bathrooms, and barbecue grills outside ($119–275; weekly rates available). The heated swimming pool overlooks the Gulf of Mexico, and it’s an easy walk down to the beach.
Enjoy seaside serenity at the Sandpiper Inn (941-383-2552; www.sandpiperinn.com/FL), 5451 Gulf of Mexico Dr., an appealing little hideaway of apartments and studio rooms right on the Gulf. Sit out on your patio and listen to the waterfall in the tropical garden, or soak in the small heated pool after a dip in the sea. Large, tiled one-and two-bedroom suites with kitchens run $139–249, with weekly rates available.
Where to EatWine Spectator rates Euphemia Haye (941-383-3633; www.euphemiahaye.com), 5540 Gulf of Mexico Dr., as worthy of its Award of Excellence for its wine cellar, and the folks at Florida Trend give them the Golden Spoon for creative cuisine, intimate dining, and a dessert room—the Hayeloft. Tucked away in a tropical forest, this local gem offers a getaway for you and your sweetheart to savor a truly international menu, with gourmet creations such as Grecian lamb shank, shrimp Taj Mahal, roast duckling, and calves’ sweetbreads grenoblois. Expect to drop $100 for dinner for two, and save room for delights at the Hayeloft, where you can choose from a dazzling display of desserts.
From the outside Lee’s Crab Trap (941-722-6255), US 19 at the Terra Ceia Bridge, has that casual seafood house look, but let me assure you—it’s not. This is a classy place with a 30-year history of pleasing locals with certified Angus steaks and seafood dishes with a gourmet touch. Lunch includes oyster and shrimp po’boys and Florida gator burgers. Crab is served 13 different ways at dinner, including imperial, supreme, and Norfolk. Dress well (business casual or better); reservations suggested.
On the historic pier, The City Pier Restaurant (941-779-1667; www.pierjewelry.com/restaurant.php), 100 Bay Blvd., offers great views of Tampa Bay with your meal, which might include fish-and-chips, coconut shrimp, or a cherry snapper sandwich at lunch ($7–9), or a sirloin steak or big steamer pot full of veggies, king crab, and shrimp for dinner, entrées $13 and up.
Rotten Ralph’s (941-778-3953; www.rottenralphs.com), 902 S Bay Blvd., is the classic Florida waterfront restaurant that everyone sent me to—it’s got that Cracker fish camp feel but is right in the heart of the marina at the end of the road. Cruise in, drive, or walk, and settle down for the basics. All-you-can-eat British-style fish-and-chips ($10) are the specialty of the house.
With its loyal following tagging along, the original Anna Maria Oyster Bar (941-792-0077; www.oysterbar.net), 6696 Cortez Rd. W, moved landside, offering hot wings, frozen margaritas, their famous giant grouper sandwiches, and 25 cent oysters in a casual setting. Dig into steamer pots of veggies, potatoes, and shellfish, or sample tasty seafood preparations like Cajun onion crusted salmon, nutty grouper, and tilapia almondine, entrées $11 and up. Two additional locations: 6906 US 41 and at 1525 51st Ave., Ellenton.
Grandma Yoders (941-739-2918), 5896 53rd Ave. E, is a little strip-mall treasure that one of my girlfriends took me to for dinner. Enjoy good Amish cooking—especially heaping slices of pie—in a family atmosphere, where Manhattans (open-faced sandwiches on homemade bread) come with real mashed potatoes smothered in gravy. Open 11 AM–8 PM Mon.–Sat.
French toast, pecan and banana pancakes, and Southern pancakes with grits—it’s all part of the fare downtown at Theresa’s (941-747-7066), 608 14th St. W, where breakfast ($4 and up) is served up friendly and fast. Open weekdays 7 AM–2 PM, weekends 8 AM–2 PM.
For a dainty spot of tea, go with the girlfriends to Truffles & Treasures (941-761-3335), 7445 Manatee Ave. W. This Victorian tearoom is lace and frills and downright popular, especially for Mums bringing daughters out on the town. Formal teas include the Queens Tea and Lady Tiffany’s Tea, or you can opt for daily fare such as Truffles’ signature spinach salad. Open 11 AM–3 PM Tues.–Sat. Reservations recommended.
Breakfast at the Gulf Drive Café (941-778-1919), 900 Gulf Dr., is a delightful way to start your day, enjoying a platter of hotcakes while watching the seagulls wheel over the Gulf. Breakfast ($5 and up) is served anytime. Even at 8 AM there’s a line for the seaside patio, where sea oats frame a panorama of blue, so arrive early! Their Belgium waffles are top-notch.
Annie’s Bait & Tackle (941-794-3580), 4334 127th St. W, is a good old-fashioned fish camp befitting this historic fishing village, where you can grab a bucket of shiners and a fresh grouper sandwich or burger. Breakfast served weekends 6:30 AM–11 PM, lunch and dinner daily. Bait shop open daily, with fishing licenses and charters on the spot.
I kept seeing snakes out of the corner of my eye. Sharp objects hung over our heads—crosscut saws and scythes—and weird ones, too, like a pair of snowshoes, a saddlebag, a ceramic jug, and a hornet’s nest. Strapped to the wall behind me was a massive alligator, and in every direction, rattlesnakes dripped from the walls and ceiling. Behind the bar was a veritable zoo of Florida critters frozen in taxidermy, from otters to raccoons. This is dining at the Linger Lodge (941-755-2757; www.lingerlodgeresort.com), 7205 Linger Lodge Rd., off Tara Blvd. and SR 70, one of the weirdest restaurants I’ve ever set foot in. Set beneath ancient oaks and palms along the bluff above the Braden River, it’s a one of a kind experience, thanks to Frank Gamsky, a taxidermist who built the current restaurant in 1968. It started as a fish camp in 1945 and is still a true Old Florida destination, surrounded by a pleasant full-service campground. The menu fits the setting, serving up genuine Southern cooking like frog legs, fried green tomatoes, BBQ pulled pork, and River Bottom Pie. Grab a great dinner for under $15 or linger on the screened porch and enjoy your lunch, $6 and up.
LINGER LODGE
Sandra Friend
There’s heavy voodoo going down at Mr. Jones BBQ (941-778-6614), 3007 Gulf Dr., where New Orleans meets the Far East with burgers rubbed in secret spices, five kinds of ribs (your choice of spare or baby back), and awesome exotics such as chicken shish kebob with rice biryani served up tikka masala style with a mass of my favorite sautéed veggies—peppers, onions, mushrooms, and tomatoes—and sides of raita, mango, and fresh coriander chutneys, as well as strips of French bread for dipping and a boatload of cold beer. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
The busiest breakfast spot on the island is the Blue Dolphin Café (941-383-3787; www.bluedolphincafe.com), 5370 Gulf of Mexico Dr., where the specialties include a breakfast wrap with homemade veggie chili, cheddar cheese, and scrambled eggs, or Belgium waffles with fresh fruit. Serving breakfast and lunch, $6 and up.
Model planes and historic photos of aviation set the tone at Hot Rodd’s Hanger (941-729-2950), 120 Seventh St. W, a busy restaurant with breakfast all day ($4 and up), lunch sandwiches and salads, and lots of dinner choices, with roast pork and baked ham, alligator and coconut shrimp among them. But what’ll really get you in the door are the milk shakes—choose from blueberry or peanut butter, as well as the traditional flavors.
What’s a beach without an ice cream parlor? Mama Lo’s By The Sea (941-779-1288), 101 S Bay Blvd., serves up more than 40 different flavors of ice cream, frozen yogurt, and sorbet in every combination you can think of, and some of the choices are just awesome—coffee crunch, coconut, peppermint stick, and gator tracks, to name a few. They serve lunch and fancy coffee drinks, too. Open 7 AM–9 PM daily.
Everyone in town stops at the Shake Pit (941-748-4016; www.shakepit.com), 3810 Manatee Ave. W, between errands, a local favorite since 1959. It’s a family business with that 1950s flair and funky touches like local celebrities leaving autographs (and sometimes cartoons!) on the ceiling. They make great burgers, dogs, and short order sandwiches like grilled cheese, Philly cheesesteak, and BLTs, but the big draw is the ice cream—in cups and sundaes, sodas and floats, and even with a fried banana! Open for lunch and dinner except Wednesday.
Just up the road, Sweetberries Frozen Custard (941-750-6771; www.sweetberries.com), 4500 Manatee Ave. W, has frozen custard, sandwiches, and soups in a sit-down café where everything is made fresh.
EntertainmentOn the grounds of Seagate, a grand Mediterranean Revival–style mansion built by Powel Crosley Jr. in 1929, the Powel Crosley Theatre (941-722-3244; www.powelcrosleytheatre.com) offers a series of fine theatrical productions from December through April. $20 adults, $16 seniors, ages 5–12, $10.
Selective ShoppingYou’d hardly believe that Ginny’s and Jane E’s at the Old IGA (941-778-3170; www.annamariacafe.com), 9807 Gulf Dr., was once a supermarket, with its chic indoor “garden of antiques” feel. Local art mingles with antiques, a juice bar (featuring smoothies and coffee), and organic fruit and vegetables to make a comfy kick-back-and-relax atmosphere. Closed Mon.
Across from the Old City Pier, Bayview Plaza, at the corner of Bay and Pine, offers some great little shops, including White Egret Boutique (home decor and gifts), the Paper Egret (sundries and gourmet food), and Two Sides of Nature, with whimsical colorful toys and kitchen items, as well as a prolific stock of bright island T-shirts. But my favorite, The Museum Shoppe (941-779-0273), 101 South Bay Blvd., is up on the second floor and takes a little effort to find, but it is well worth it if you love giving eclectic gifts. I found quill-and-ink sets for writers, sealing wax, heirloom toys, maps, and globes, and local metal art depicting sea life.
A giant rooster tops Bungalow Antiques (941-750-6611), 1910 Manatee Ave. E, making it easy to spot from the highway. This 1940s bungalow has rooms and rooms of great collectibles and decor items—lots of fun stuff!
At Carriage House Antiques (941-747-9234), 3307 Manatee Ave. W, I reveled in a room of Florida kitsch, picking up finds such as 1970s citrus trivets and 1940s playing cards. You’ll also find fine furniture, vintage glassware, a book nook, and more from nearly 24 dealers within the maze of rooms in this cottage.
Break out those comfortable shoes! The Red Barn Flea Market (941-747-3794 or 1-800-274-FLEA; www.redbarnfleamarket.com), 1707 First St. E, is one of the region’s largest, with more than four hundred vendors indoors and two hundred more booths outside. Open 8 AM–4 PM Wed. and Fri.–Sun.
The funky little downtown surrounding the Bridge Street Circle in Bradenton Beach has quite a few shops and restaurants, including Two Sides of Nature (941-779-2432), 119-B Bridge St.; Island Creperie (941-778-1011), 127 Bridge St.; the Banana Cabana (941-779-1930; www.bananacabanaseafood.com), 103 Gulf Dr. N; and the One Stop Shell Shop (941-778-9195), 101 Gulf Dr., where the sign on the door says, WE WELCOME ICE CREAM CONES, BEACH ATTIRE, AND BARE FEET . . . AFTER ALL, THIS IS FLORIDA!
Ahoy, mates! Stroll the salvage garden at The Sea Hagg (941-795-5756; www.seahagg.com), 12304 Cortez Rd. W, for a jumble of nautical goodies—some antique, some new, some indoors, some out. Open Mon.–Sat.
The sprawling Feed Store Antique Mall (941-729-1379), 4407 US 301, is full of dealer booths inside an old-fashioned barn—a maze of bargains, just like an old-fashioned flea market. I found books, collectibles, a W. C. Fields lamp, and costume jewelry. Open daily.
At Niki’s Island Treasures & Antique Mall (941-779-0729), 5351 N Gulf Dr. in Dolphin Plaza, shop for stained-glass windows, retro chairs and tables, and all sorts of funky stuff.
Creativity is in high swing at KK’s Artique (941-383-0883), 5360 Gulf of Mexico Dr., with floral-patterned art glass, mosaic-framed mirrors, fiber craft, clay sculpture, and paintings of appealing Sarasota scenes.
With dozens of dealers under one roof, Emiline’s Antiques and Collectibles Mall (941-729-5282), 1250 10th St. E, offers plenty of possibilities, including everything from a 1916 cash register to Plasticville houses, pottery, salt shakers, fine china, and Fenton glass.
Since 1939, Mixon Fruit Farms (1-800-608-2525; www.mixon.com), 2712 26th Ave. E, has served the region with farm-fresh citrus from their groves east of the city, which are open for guided tours November through April. Their store is open 9 AM–5 PM Monday through Saturday and features orange swirl ice cream, homemade cream and butter fudge, and many Florida gifts.
Between mid-August and September, the Rosa Fiorelli Winery (see Winery) offers fresh u-pick bronze or black muscadine grapes.
Grab farm fresh dairy products at Dakin Dairy Farms (see Family Activities) and stop in at the u-pick at Hunsader Farms (see Family Activities).
At Goodson Farms Produce on US 41 just south of I-275, stop in for fresh fruit milk shakes and strawberry short-cakes during the growing season, November through May.
With 150 acres of groves in and around Palmetto, The Citrus Ranch (239-723-0504 or 1-888-723-2006; www.citrusranch.com) has a stand at 4805 Buckeye Rd., 1.5 miles east of US 41, where they sell packed citrus fruit gifts, loose fruit, and fresh-squeezed juices. Free samples! Open 9 AM–5 PM Mon.–Sat., Nov.–May.
Special EventsJanuary: Discover the region’s agricultural bounty at the Manatee County Fair (941-722-1639; www.manateecountyfair.com), held at the fairgrounds in Palmetto.
February: The Bradenton3 Beach Festival (941-778-1005; www.cityofbradentonbeach.com/events_bridge.php) features boat rides and other watersports along historic Bridge Street at Bradenton Beach.
Eat more seafood at the Cortez Fishing Festival (941-794-1249; www.fishnews.org/festival), where you can nosh on nuggets direct from the sea, browse arts and crafts, and learn how to repair a net. Third weekend of the month.
February/March: The Rubonia Mardi Gras (941-46-7470; www.ruboniamardigras.org) has been “parading for a purpose” in fun costumes since 1980. The Mystic Crewe forged an alliance with nearby Terra Ceia and it became a funky party/parade/fund-raiser for both small communities, still going strong today. Check the Web site for the exact date.
April: CSO Festival, Gamble Plantation Historic State Park (see Historic Sites), first Sat. Entertainment, food, antique autos, arts and crafts, and the Patton House open for tours.
July: Visit the South Florida Museum (see Museums) for Snooty the Manatee’s Birthday Bash, a fun party for the kids.
November: Celebrate the harvest at the Tomato Festival (941-722-1639), Sutton Park, Palmetto, with cook-offs, entertainment, and crafts.
December: The Civil War returns to Ellenton at the Gamble Plantation Holiday Open House (941-723-4536). See the encampments and a live cannon display, as well as Civil War field equipment in action.
