To SeeIt’s tropical. It’s enticing. Royal palms line the boulevards, sandal-clad Jimmy Buffet fans share the bars with yachtsmen and golfers, and the sea glimmers green against soft white sands. Hundreds of small islands dot the bays and sounds, awaiting exploration by a sea kayak, a fishing boat, or a quiet skiff. Layers of history lie beneath the shimmering sands and mangrove thickets of these Gulf Coast islands.
In A.D. 100, the Calusa established a city on Mound Key in Estero Bay. Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon met his match in 1521, receiving a mortal wound from a Calusa warrior in Pine Island Sound. Swashbuckling José Gaspar took over Captiva Island, raiding passing galleons on his way to Tampa Bay. From Bokeelia to Bonita Springs, Florida’s pioneers plied the waters, setting up fishing camps, vegetable farms, and banana and coconut plantations, with agriculture still a major force on Pine Island. During the Seminole Wars, the small fortress of Fort Myers provided safe harbor to pioneers settling Florida’s frontier. With millions of acres of open range along the Caloosahatchee River, ranchers such as Jacob Summerlin made fortunes by driving their cattle down to Punta Rassa, where the captains of Spanish galleons would pay them in gold. In 1861 Summerlin enlisted in the Confederate army as a Commissary Sergeant and was appointed to oversee northbound cattle drives to ensure a steady supply of beef to soldiers in Georgia. When the Union army occupied Fort Myers in 1865, two hundred Confederate soldiers marched south from Tampa in an attempt to take the fort back and stop raids on their cattle drives. The resulting four-hour skirmish was the southernmost engagement of the Civil War. The fort itself vanished as settlers poured into the area, eager to establish land grant claims during Reconstruction. Torn down piece by piece, the boards of the fort ended up in new downtown homes and shops.
Incorporated in 1886, the city of Fort Myers became a winter destination for tourists hopping steamships down the Gulf Coast. After a short visit in 1889, Thomas Edison built a grand estate on the Caloosahatchee River, where he could assemble a new laboratory devoted to the study of tropical plants. Edison transformed the little town as his industrialist and scientist friends became frequent visitors. Henry Ford bought an adjoining estate. His sophisticated circle of friends established the cultural core of Fort Myers, with its graceful historic downtown. By overseeing the planting of hundreds of royal palms lining McGregor Boulevard, the old cattle-driving route, Edison ensured Fort Myers a lasting legacy as the City of Palms. Some of the original settlers were flower growers from Europe who made Fort Myers famous many decades ago as the “Gladiolus Capital of the World.”
When the Tamiami Trail opened in the 1920s, the land boom started. Among the developers who kick-started growth at the turn of the last century was former governor Albert Gilchrist, president of the Boca Grande Land Company, who played a large role in the development of Gasparilla Island and Boca Grande. The Charlotte Harbor and Northern Railroad was extended to the island to allow phosphate barges to offload their cargo to a shipping plant built in 1912, and phosphate was shipped out of the island until the 1970s. Simultaneously, wealthy Northeasterners discovered this island getaway, a hot spot in the 1920s when the Silver Star ran the rails from New York City direct to Boca Grande in 24 hours. Anglers came here for some of the best tarpon fishing in the world.
As the population grew, the county’s economy shifted away from agriculture. After receiving gunnery training at Page Field and Buckingham, thousands of World War II airmen returned to Fort Myers to live after the war. Tourists discovered the unparalleled shelling on Sanibel Island, the captivating beauty of Captiva Island, and the thousands of migratory birds that wintered on rookery islands in Pine Island Sound. The economy of the Fort Myers region now revolves around tourism and land development, with nearly a half million residents spilling down the coastline.
GUIDANCE Contact the Lee County Visitor & Convention Bureau (239-338-3500 or 1-800-237-6444; www.FortMyersSanibel.com), 12800 University Dr., Ste. 550, Fort Myers 33907, or visit their Web site for extensive information. Pick up brochures at local businesses or at one of the Estero Chamber of Commerce Visitor Centers (239-948-7990; www.esterochamber.org/visitorInfoCenters.htm), located at the Miromar Outlets and Coconut Point (see Selective Shopping).
Visiting Boca Grande? Stop at the Boca Grande Area Chamber of Commerce (941-964-0568; www.bocagrandechamber.com), 5800 Gasparilla Rd., Ste. A1, next to Boca Grande Resort (see Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf Islands).
GETTING THERE By car: I-75 provides direct access to Fort Myers, and US 41, the Tamiami Trail, shoots straight through its heart. Be especially cautious driving on I-75 between Fort Myers and Naples, as traffic is heavy and a lot of construction equipment clogs up the highway.
By air: Southwest Florida International Airport (RSW) (239-768-1000; www.flylcpa.com), 11000 Terminal Access Rd., Fort Myers, offers regular commuter service on more than 20 different airlines, including AirTran, American, Continental, Delta, Northwest, Southwest, United, and US Airways. International flights depart for Canada and Mexico daily.
By bus: Greyhound (239-334-1011; www.greyhound.com), 2250 Peck St., Fort Myers, provides transportation from the Jackson Street terminal, downtown.
By bus: LeeTran (239-LEE-TRAN; www.rideleetran.com) provides bus service throughout the county with 18 fixed routes. Fare $1.25, all-day pass $2.50, 7-day pass $12.50; senior fare $0.60, 7-day pass $10, monthly pass $20. Children under 42-inches tall free. Buses operate 5 AM to 9:45 PM Monday through Saturday, with several routes operational on Sundays. Check the Web site for route maps and numbers.
By car: To reach Pine Island, use Pine Island Road. Cape Coral is best accessed by Colonial Boulevard and Del Prado Boulevard. During the winter “snowbird” season, traffic south of downtown Fort Myers increases in intensity as you head toward Bonita Springs and Fort Myers Beach. McGregor Boulevard provides a great scenic alternative to US 41. From I-75 use Daniels Parkway to access Fort Myers Beach and Sanibel-Captiva, and Bonita Beach Boulevard to reach Bonita Springs and Estero Island. To get to Boca Grande, you’ll have to drive all the way around Charlotte Harbor, through Punta Gorda, Charlotte Harbor, and Placida (see Charlotte Harbor and the Islands) via Burnt Store Road or US 41 to SR 771 and SR 775. The turnoff is just past Placida. There is a toll of at least $5 to cross the bridge to Gasparilla Island.
By passenger ferry: The Tropic Star (239-283-0015; www.tropicstarcruises.com) is the official provider of ferry service to Cayo Costa State Park with scheduled trips at 9:30 AM and 2:00 PM daily, $35 adult, $25 ages 7 and under. They also offer private water taxi service ($150 per hour) from Bokeelia to most of the destinations surrounding Pine Island Sound, including Boca Grande, Cabbage Key, Cayo Costa, North Captiva, and Useppa.
The Key West Express (1-888-539-2628; www.seakeywestexpress.com), 2200 Main St., connects Fort Myers Beach to Marco Island and Key West using large modern catamarans with all the comforts for the 3–4 hour trip. Departures are from Salty Sam’s Marina and 706 Fisherman’s Wharf in Fort Myers Beach. Oneway fare to either Key West or Marco Island is $86 adult, $57 child. Round-trip to Key West $139 adult, $129 senior, $75 ages 6–12; round-trip to Marco Island, $119 adult, $109 senior, $75 ages 6–12.
By taxi: Checker Cab (239-332-1712; www.bluebirdyellowtaxi.com); you’ll find a taxi stand at the Southwest Florida International Airport.
By trolley: LeeTran (239-LEE-TRAN; www.rideleetran.com) provides a “Park and Ride” trolley service to and from Fort Myers Beach.
PARKING With rare exceptions, beach parking will cost you no matter where you go, and there are parking fees for most of the parks in Lee County, paid via a digital box for which you must have exact change or a credit card. Save those quarters! In downtown Fort Myers, there is two-hour metered street parking and a parking garage.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES Lee Memorial Hospital (239-332-1111; www.leememorial.org), 2276 Cleveland Ave., serves Fort Myers and has several affiliates: Cape Coral Hospital (239-574-2323; www.leememorial.org/facilities/capecoralhospital.asp), 636 Del Prado Blvd.; Gulf Coast Hospital (239-768-5000; www.leememorial.org/facilities/gulfcoasthospital.asp), 13681 Doctor’s Way, near the corner of Metro and Daniels; and Southwest Florida Regional Medical Center (239-939-1147; www.leememorial.org/swfrmc_gc), 2727 Winkler Ave., which is the closest hospital to Sanibel and Captiva Islands and Fort Myers Beach. In Boca Grande, call the Boca Grande Health Clinic (941-964-2276), 320 Parks Ave.
To SeeIt’s the only place I know of where you can explore ancient Calusa culture and order yourself a mouthwatering “Cheeseburger in Paradise”—Cabbage Key is a giant pile of oyster shells cast here by the Calusa thousands of years ago. They built canals, too, and you can explore the island via a nature trail that starts and ends at the inn and restaurant that was once mystery writer Mary Roberts Rinehart’s home in 1938. To get here, take a water taxi (see Boating) or hook up with the folks at Tarpon Lodge (see Lodging) in Pineland, who own the place.
Launch your kayak from Koreshan Historic State Park (see Historic Sites) for a paddle into Estero Bay to see Mound Key, a man-made island of oyster shells rising 32 feet high, once the capital city of the Calusa, where King Carlos received the Spanish explorers who came to his shores in the 1500s.
At the Calusa Heritage Trail at the Randell Research Center (239-283-2062; www.flmnh.ufl.edu/rrc), 13810 Waterfront Dr., explore the interpreted remains of an ancient Calusa city overlooking Captiva Pass and encompassing nearly 60 acres. Engineered thousands of years ago, this was the original city called “Tampa” by the Calusa, who were a seagoing culture with tools based on shells. They subsisted by fishing the vast estuaries between Ten Thousand Island and Charlotte Harbor. Follow nearly a mile of interpretive trails to visit sites of interest, including several significant mounds on which temples and houses once perched, and a canal system that linked the village with the bay. An abrupt climatic change more than 1,500 years ago might have caused the inhabitants to abandon their waterfront property; the ridges show storm deposits from major hurricanes. Guided tours are offered weekly on Saturday at 10 AM (reservations a must), or you can walk the trails yourself. Stop at the visitors center for information. Open 10 AM–4 PM daily. Fee.
Inhabited continuously for more than 10,000 years, Useppa Island was home to another major village of the Calusa, with shell middens today belying sites of significance. Findings from archaeological digs are presented in the Useppa Island Museum (see Museums).
Both the Hughes Gallery (941-964-4273; www.hughesgallery.net), 333 Park Ave., and Paradise! Fine Art (941-964-0774), 340 Park Ave., present fine art by nationally renowned artists, as well as traditional interpretations of Florida landscapes. Nearby, the Serendipity Gallery (941-964-2166), Olde Theatre Mall, 321 Park Ave., is a quirkier place, filled with colorful art that appeals to those of us with flamingos on the bathroom wall and fish platters in the kitchen.
Under a bower of sea grapes, the Crossed Palms Gallery (239-283-2283; www.crossedpalmsgallery.com), 8315 Main St., showcases fine art and classy art glass, sculpture, and jewelry from local artists.
A rotating slate of art shows fills the galleries at Cape Coral Arts Studio (239-574-0802; www.southwestfloridaarts.com/capestudio.cfm), 4533 Coronado Pkwy. If you’re staying in the region for an extended period, check into their ongoing workshops and fine-art classes. Open Mon.–Fri. Free.
At Jungle Drums (239-395-2266; www.jungledrumsgallery.com), 11532 Andy Rosse Ln., nearly three hundred Florida artists are represented in all media, and the result is a store with dozens of pieces of naturally themed art that you’ll want to take home. I found the copper mangrove “Captiva candelabra” tables especially appealing, as are the clay studio sushi platters, “Happy Glass” balls, and beach treasure boxes decorated with shells, beach glass, and copper. Owner Jim Mazzotta is best known for his vibrant island creatures and scenes that celebrate the margarita-and-sailing lifestyle.
Art galleries are tucked amid the shops lining the waterfront, including WildChild Gallery (239-283-6006; www.wildchildartgallery.com), 4625 Pine Island Rd., with pottery, art glass, and vivid Florida landscape paintings; Water’s Edge Gallery (239-283-7570), 4548 Pine Island Rd., with wildlife art; Matlacha Art Gallery (239-283-6453), 4643 Pine Island Rd; and Lovegrove Gallery and Gardens (239-283-1244; www.leomalovegrove.com), 4637 Pine Island Rd., filled with delightful and unique pieces, from whimsical wire people to fish mosaics, wooden critters, and infrared photography. Step outside to the garden for even more art. Leona Lovegrove is the primary artist, but more than 40 other local artists are also represented at this gallery. From February through June enjoy Art Night on Pine Island 4–9 PM on the second Friday of each month as galleries stay open late to showcase artists and gourmet goodies.
Dubbed the “Island of the Arts,” Sanibel has more than a dozen art galleries hidden in its byways and little malls. Start your exploration at BIG (Barrier Island Group) Arts (239-395-0900; www.bigarts.org), 900 Dunlop Rd., the nonprofit cultural arts center downtown, where monthly displays are shown at the Phillips Gallery. Pick up a copy of the Sanibel Island art gallery guide here to discover the island’s many other artists, among them Bryce McNamara’s whimsical recycled art at the Tin Can Alley Art Gallery (239-472-2902), 2480 Library Way. Featuring oceanic art from local artists such as Nancy Wilson and Myra Robert, Seaweed Gallery (239-472-2585; www.seaweedgallery.com), 1989 Periwinkle Way, is a little niche of glass, ceramic, and paintings that evoke the magic of the sea.
BASEBALL Spring training is the hot topic in these parts, with the Minnesota Twins (http://minnesota.twins.mlb.com) as the fifth team in more than 65 years to train in Lee County. They play at the William H. Hammond Stadium (239-768-4210 or 1-800-33-TWINS), 4400 Six Mile Cypress Pkwy., Fort Myers, and their Class A farm team the Miracle play the remainder of the season. Downtown, the Boston Red Sox (http://boston.redsox.mlb.com) play at the City of Palms Park (239-334-4700 or 1-877-RED-SOXX), 2201 Edison Ave.; tickets $10–44.
At Sandspur Park along Gulf Boulevard, the tall thin lighthouse you see is the Rear Range Light, an unmanned structure built in 1881 to be used in Delaware, and then moved to Boca Grande in 1927 for active duty. Built in 1890 to guide ships to Charlotte Harbor, the Boca Grande Lighthouse (see Museums) is one of the oldest structures in the region. It served as a working lighthouse for nearly 70 years and was fully restored in 1986 to serve as a museum. Nearby, the Quarantine House (to the left of the entrance to the state park where the lighthouse is located), circa 1895, housed sick crewmembers on ships visiting the city. It is privately owned.
Dr. Cyrus Teed founded a utopian settlement along the Imperial River in 1894. The well-preserved village is now part of Koreshan Historic State Park (239-992-0311; www.floridastateparks.org/koreshan), 8661 Corkscrew Rd. The Koreshans once numbered 250, and they believed in a hollow earth, the Golden Rule, communal property, and women’s rights. Tours take you through the village, and you can enjoy the park’s many other amenities—campground, picnic area, riverside nature trail, canoe launch, and fishing—on your own.
Few Florida historic sites see as many visitors as the Edison and Ford Winter Estates (239-334-3614; www.efwefla.org), 2350 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers, managed by the City of Fort Myers. Encompassing 14 acres, this tropical paradise dates from 1886, when Thomas Edison established experimental gardens and a laboratory to determine the industrial uses of tropical plants. By the 1930s, he determined that 10 to 12 percent pure rubber could be extracted from a particular species of goldenrod. A tour through the estate is an immersion in a tropical forest, starting with what is claimed to be the third largest banyan tree in the world, covering nearly an acre with its dense, glossy canopy supported by hundreds of tap roots as thick as tree trunks and providing a labyrinth of tree limbs to explore. The parade of botanical wonders continues along the tour route, beneath the dangling salami-like fruits of the sausage tree, past poisonous apple trees, blooming orchids, and forests of bamboo. Knowledgeable guides lead each hour-long walking tour, which winds through the tropical plantings to stop at Edison’s home office, swimming pool, and wharf before coming to Seminole Lodge, Edison’s home.
THE BOCA GRANDE LIGHTHOUSE MUSEUM
Sandra Friend
As befitting the inventor of the electric light, in 1887 Seminole Lodge was the first building in Florida to be illuminated. The novelty drew Edison’s friends from around the world. This traditional Florida home uses breeze-ways and screened rooms to keep the rooms cool with the constant breezes across the Caloosahatchee River. Original furnishings grace each room. At the adjoining Mangoes, purchased by Edison’s protégé, Henry Ford, the tour continues past a garage housing an original 1914 Model T, 1917 Ford Truck, and 1929 Model A before entering Ford’s home for a look at life in the 1920s. Leaving the gardens, visitors explore Edison’s original rubber laboratory—as intact as the day it shut down—and a museum containing Edison’s many inventions, from the well-known lightbulb and phonograph to the lesser-known movie projector and stock ticker. Open daily, except Thanksgiving and Christmas, 9 AM–5:30 PM, last tour at 4 PM. Adults $20, children ages 6–12 $11. Botanical tours are offered Thursday and Saturday at 9 AM, and cost $24 adult, $10 child. Discounts offered for AAA and reciprocal museum members.
Find the original Sanibel at the Sanibel Historic Village & Museum (239-472-4648; www.sanibelmuseum.org), 950 Dunlop Rd., where wooden walkways lead you through the village and gardens on the site of Bailey’s landing, where the first general store stood. (Their family still has a store on Tarpon Bay Road.) Historic structures were moved here from around the island, including the Burnap Cottage (1898), Miss Charlotte’s Tea Room (1926), the original post office (1926), and others. The museum and houses are open limited seasonal hours, Nov. 7–Apr. 30 Wed.–Sat. 10 AM–4 PM, May 1–Aug. 11 Wed.–Sat. 10 AM–1 PM; fee.
THE BANYAN TREE AT THE EDISON AND FORD ESTATES
Sandra Friend
An excellent introduction to regional history, the Boca Grande Lighthouse Museum (941-964-0060; www.barrierislandparkssociety.org/lighthouse.html) at Gasparilla Island State Park (see Beaches) explains how these barrier islands, once occupied by the Calusa, became Spanish settlements where fishermen created “ranchos,” offshore fish farms that they tended. When the railroad came to Boca Grande to serve the growing phosphate industry along the Peace River, it brought Northern visitors who sought recreation with sportfishing and changed the nature of the town from a working maritime port to the exclusive enclave it remains today. The lighthouse is open Wednesday through Sunday all year long, and Tuesdays February through April. Donation.
Inside the historic Teacherage House at the corner of Park Avenue and Banyan Street, the Boca Grande Historical Society & Museum (941-964-1600; www.bocagrandehistoricalsociety.com) offers a window into the past and an archive for the future, collecting and categorizing memorabilia to present online and in rotating exhibits in their small museum space. Browse their selection of books on the region in their gift store. Open Mon.–Fri., 10 AM–3 PM. Donation.
Located south of channel marker 7 on Boca Bayou, the Gasparilla Island Maritime Museum (941-964-4466) at historic Whidden’s Marina (see Boating) revisits the grand era of commercial fishing in southwest Florida through artifacts and photographs displayed in the old Red Gill Fish House. Built in 1926, the marina is the oldest continuously operating business on the island and still serves its customers daily. Donation.
The small Cape Coral Historical Society Museum (941-772-7037), 544 Cultural Park Blvd., offers exhibits on the local burrowing owl population, a rose garden, a military museum, a Native American room, and a Florida Cracker homestead. Open 1 PM–4 PM Wed., Thurs., and Sun., closed July and Aug. Fee.
BANYAN STREET IN BOCA GRANDE
Sandra Friend
Housed in the city’s original Atlantic Coast Line depot circa 1924, the Southwest Florida Museum of History (239-321-7430; www.swflmuseumofhistory.com), 2300 Peck St., offers a broad perspective on the people and events that shaped this region. From the classy restored Pullman railcar Esperanza to vignettes on the fishing villages of Pine Island Sound, the museum provides a diverse collection of artifacts to explore. Researchers will find the Archival Research Center an invaluable resource for understanding the history of Southwest Florida, and the museum store contains a good selection of Florida history books. The museum also offers downtown walking tours from January through April. Admission for adults $9.50, seniors $8.50, children 3–12 $5. Open 10 AM–5 PM Tues.–Sat.
Kids will have a blast at the Imaginarium Hands-on Museum (239-337-3332; www.cityftmyers.com/imaginarium), 2000 Cranford St., where there’s so much for them to see and do inside a renovated water treatment plant, complete with a water tower. The Animal Lab is full of critters, including turtles, frogs, and the ever-popular giant Madagascar hissing cockroach. There are coral reef and freshwater tanks, and movies to watch at the Theater-in-the-Tank. New touch tanks are a centerpiece of the museum, allowing you to get up close to sting rays, sea urchins, and crabs. Kids ages 5 and under can play grown-up in Tiny Town. At Sporty Science, learn physics by playing hockey and baseball. Mind Magic has plenty of hands-on exhibits, including fun with magnets and pool balls, building noodle structures, and putting on your own puppet show. In the Hands-On Hall, kids can play bee in a honeycomb or get inside the Hurricane Experience (parents welcome!) where you’re buffeted with winds at hurricane force. Upstairs, play meteorologist on WIMG-TV, stand in a thunderstorm, and touch a cloud. There’s even a dinosaur dig! Behind the building is a series of screened rooms with iguanas, doves, and finches, and the Fish-Eye Lagoon, where turtles sun and swans glide. A giant sandbox is set in the shade, right outside the snack bar. You’ll keep the family busy for hours here. Open 10 AM–5 PM Mon.–Sat., noon–5 PM Sun. Adults $8, seniors $7, ages 3–12 $5.
At the Museum of the Islands (239-283-1525; www.museumoftheislands.com), 5728 Sesame Dr., thousands of years of island culture are packed into the display cases. Marvel at Calusa figurines, including icons of sea turtles, alligators, and wolves, and look through photos and the family history of the earliest European settlers on the island. There is a well-labeled shell and fossil collection, and artifacts from early settlers, such as an 1800s antique doll buggy. Browse the gift shop for more books on regional history. Open 11 AM–3 PM Tues.–Sat. Nov. 1–Apr. 30 and Tues., Thurs., Sat. May 1–Oct. 31; fee.
You probably never knew that actor Raymond Burr of Perry Mason fame was an avid shell collector, and neither did I until I visited the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum (941-395-2233; www.shellmuseum.org), 3075 Sanibel-Captiva Rd., a mecca for anyone who enjoys the beauty of seashells. More than two decades ago, Burr helped launch this museum, which prides itself on the most comprehensive collection in the world. It’s entirely fitting it’s located on the one island in the United States where shelling is world-class. A globe is the centerpiece of the Great Hall of Shells, showing where in the world you’ll find specific species. Journey around the galleries to discover themed and regional exhibits, including shells as art: magnificent inlaid mother-of-pearl cabinetry and sailors’ valentines. Natural bird and surf sounds add to the experience, and most of the exhibits put the shells in the context of where and how they live in offshore and inner bay habitats. The Children’s Learning Lab has a touch tank and shell specimens, with hands-on games and puzzles. If you’re planning to collect shells on this trip, don’t miss the introductory movie, which gives important information on how to tell if your finds are alive or not before you remove them from their habitat. You’re welcome to bring your own shells for identification. The gift shop has shell motif items, a great selection of guidebooks and serious scientific books on the subject, and children’s toys and puzzles. Open daily 10 AM–5 PM, fee. Serious collectors will want to consider a membership to receive an information-packed newsletter.
Formerly the terminus of the Charlotte Harbor and Northern Railroad, which actively shipped phosphate brought to the wharf by barges until 1979, Boca Grande still has one of its original railroad depots downtown, built in 1911. It was one of three depots on the island and is now home to several shops and the Loose Caboose Restaurant (see Eating Out).
Hop on board Florida’s only dinner-train theater, the Seminole Gulf Railway (941-275-8487 or 1-800-SEM-GULF; www.semgulf.com), 4110 Centerpointe Dr. at Colonial Station, Colonial Blvd. and Metro Pkwy., Fort Myers, for a real treat as you figure out “whodunit” and feast on Black Angus steak, poached salmon, or chicken stuffed with walnut corn bread dressing. This diesel railway also offers scenic day trips of 20 and 30 miles up to and beyond the Caloosahatchee River trestle on Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday, holidays excepted. Day excursions cost $19.95 adults, $11.95 ages 3–12, with discounts for families and special holiday outings.
WINERY Eden Winery (239-728-9463; www.edenwinery.com), 19709 Little Ln. off SR 80, Alva, is in the heart of the farming district and a popular stop for wine connoisseurs. Wine tastings run 30 to 40 minutes and include a discussion of the grapes and winemaking procedures. Fee.
A classic Florida roadside attraction, Everglades Wonder Gardens (239-992-2591), 27180 Old US 41, opened in 1936 as a wildlife rehab center by Lester and Bill Piper, and since my last visit was in the 1960s, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Although habitats are slowly undergoing replacement, the winding paths under a canopy of tropical trees remain the same. A tour guide takes you on an interpretive walk through and past the enclosures, where you’ll see Florida native species up close. Kids love the bouncing swinging bridge over the alligator pit, and you can let the kids feed fish and turtles along the route. The resident Florida panther, born in 1978, is the oldest in captivity; several have been bred here and released into the wild. There is a sad irony to the many plaques that read A PROTECTED SPECIES DUE TO LOSS OF HABITAT, as natural habitats surrounding the park have vanished at an incredible rate over the past few years. Check out the natural history museum in the gift shop, with pickled eggs, skulls, and photos from the founding of the park, once known as “Bonita Springs Reptile Gardens” and now in its third generation of family ownership. Before you head into the Everglades, see its native creatures up close. Open daily 9 AM–5 PM. Adults $15, ages 3–10 $8, 2 and under free.
YOUNG ALLIGATORS AT EVERGLADES WONDER GARDENS
Sandra Friend
C.R.O.W. (239-472-3644; www.crowclinic.org), 3883 Sanibel-Captiva Rd., aka the Clinic for the Rehabilitation of Wildlife, features a wildlife video and lecture to explain the efforts of this nonprofit organization to treat, stabilize, and rehabilitate injured birds. Check their Web site for entrance times, as they are renovating the animal hospital. Fee.
To DoTo get around Boca Grande’s narrow tropical-canopied streets, consider picking up a bike at Island Bike ’n Beach Rentals (941-964-0711), 333 Park Ave. A bike path parallels the main highway from downtown Boca Grande along the old railroad line all the way to the causeway.
A system of bike paths and bike trails is evolving in and around Fort Myers, with new pieces in place every time I visit. It’s now possible to bicycle to and from the city to Punta Rassa, gateway to the Sanibel Island causeway, via pathways that parallel Summerlin Road and Six Mile Cypress Parkway. New bike paths also stretch along Daniels Parkway, connecting to the southwest corner of Lehigh Acres. Cape Coral has a bike path paralleling Veteran’s Parkway. For downloadable maps, visit the Lee County Metropolitan Planning Organization (www.mpo-swfl.org/bikeped.shtml) Web site.
Bike the entire length of 17-mile-long Pine Island along the bicycle path that parallels Stringfellow Road from Bokeelia to St. James City.
Everybody bikes on Sanibel Island—it beats sitting in long lines of traffic on Periwinkle Drive during tourist season, and it’s good for you, too. A bike path parallels Periwinkle Drive and is heavily used. Side trails lead down to the Gulf, and the main trail continues the length of the island past Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge toward Captiva Island. Shade is limited. Rent bicycles at Billy’s Rentals (239-472-5248; www.billysrentals.com), 1470 Periwinkle Way, or Finnimore’s Cycle Shop (239-472-5577; www.finnimores.com), 2353 Periwinkle Way # 101.
BIRDING It’s a fact: more migratory birds pass through this part of Florida each winter than any other. And it’s the thousands of birds that draw thousands of visitors eager for their first glimpse of a roseate spoonbill picking its way across the mud flats, or a mangrove cuckoo patiently sitting on a tree limb. J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge (see Wild Places) is one of the country’s top destinations for birding, best done along its trails and along Wildlife Drive. I have never made a visit to the refuge without spotting at least one roseate spoonbill. At the refuge’s nearby Bailey Tract on Tarpon Bay Road, watch for osprey and red-tailed hawks fishing in the freshwater impoundments. Birdwatchers also flock to the trails at the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation (see Wild Places), where benches along the Sanibel River and the island’s freshwater marshes provide quiet spots for viewing. From December through June, you’ll see swallow tailed kites nesting at Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (see Preserves) and all year long, families of Florida scrub jays flit through the scrub oaks at Hickey’s Creek Mitigation Park (see Wild Places). On Pine Island, seek out the tough-to-find St. Jude Nature Trail of the Calusa Land Trust in St. James City, a narrow pathway that takes you out to a perfect birding spot in the midst of the mangroves.
At historic Whidden’s Marina (941-964-2878; www.whiddensmarina.com), 190 First St. East, founded in 1926 and still owned by the same family, pick out your favorite craft from the large selection offered by Capt. Russ’ Boat Rentals (941-964-0708).
Most of the region’s marinas will rent or charter boats for you to explore the wondrous backwaters of Pine Island Sound and Estero Bay, including Fish Tale Marina (239-463-3600; www.fishtalemarinagroup.cc), 7225 Estero Blvd., where you can pick up a pontoon boat rental for less than $300 a day, and Salty Sam’s Marina (239-463-7333 or 1-888-796-6427; www.saltysamsmarina.com), 2500 Main St.
At Getaway Marina (239-486-3600; www.getawaymarina.com), 18400 San Carlos Blvd., rent a 17- to 23-foot boat ($140–295) for 4 to 8 hours to putter around these mangrove-lined islands from Bay Breeze Boat Rentals (239-896-0284). Or take a spin on Sea Rocket USA (239-233-1578; www.searocketusa.com), a cigarette-style powerboat that zooms up to 70 MPH through the Gulf of Mexico. Head out on a 15-minute thrill ride ($35 adult, $25 ages 12 and under) past Bowditch Point (see Beaches), where the driver will do zigzags and 360° turns. You’ll see dolphins racing to keep up! Or charter the boat for a private tour to Sanibel Island, Cayo Costa, and Cabbage Key, Naples and Marco Island ($500–1,000 for up to 14 people).
Out of Pineland Marina, Island Charter Service (239-283-3593), 13921 Waterfront Dr., offers charter service to the barrier islands of North Captiva, Cabbage Key, and Boca Grande. Call in advance for reservations and cost. Tropic Star of Pine Island (239-283-0015; www.tropicstarcruises.com), sailing from Bokeelia, is the cruise I took for a day on Cayo Costa to hike the trails and look for seashells (see Getting There). They provide charters and water taxi service as well; arrange in advance.
CRABBING From mid-October through May, it’s perfectly legal for you to dive offshore to collect stone crab claws—if you can stand the thought of removing them from their owners. At least the crabs can grow them back. Prime sites include along the Sanibel Causeway; off Big Carlos Pass Bridge; and near the Boca Grande phosphate docks. Limits set by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (www.myfwc.com) are 1 gallon of claws per person (2 gallons per vessel), and all claws must be a minimum of 2¾ inches from elbow to tip. Divers must fly a diver-down flag.
ECOTOURS 
With miles of unsullied coastline and vast estuaries to explore, guided tours are the best way to get out and see dolphin, manatee, rare birds, and more.
Captiva Kayak Co. & Wildside Adventures (239-395-2925; www.captivakayaks.com), 11401 Andy Rosse Ln. at McCarthy’s Marina, launches daily explorations to Buck Key, where you can paddle through a tunnel of mangroves and explore the estuaries of Pine Island Aquatic Preserve. More paddling tours are mentioned under Paddling. I’ve photographed dolphins frolicking in the wake of the Lady Chadwick on Captiva Cruises (239-472-5300; www.captivacruises.com), South Seas Island Resort Yacht Harbor, Captiva, which features shelling cruises and trips to the outer islands. The Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation (see Wild Places) hosts a variety of guided outdoor adventures, from birding walks to paddling trips and interpretive cruises. Taking a unique spin on local history while introducing you to the wild side of the islands, Calusa Ghost Tours (239-938-5342; www.calusaghosttours.com), based out of Pine Island, include paddling trips along the ancient water trails of the Calusa in replica 14-passenger canoes and walks with a guide to burial mounds.
FAMILY ACTIVITIES When I was a kid, I remember counting down the miles waiting for the Shell Factory (see Selective Shopping) to appear on the horizon. These days, it’s way more than the shell store where I loved to spend my allowance. Now, there’s the Shell Factory Nature Park and Botanical Garden (www.shellfactory.com/about_nature_park.html), with prairie dogs and coat-imundis, kinkajous, a gator slough, a petting zoo, and a 7,000-square foot rainforest aviary. The newest addition, guaranteed to thrill the kids, is the “Day of the Dinosaur” walk into prehistory, with life-sized dinosaurs. $10 adult, $8 seniors, $6 ages 4–12. Another part of the complex is the Fun Park and Arcade, where you can spin around in a bumper boat, slam around in a bumper car, or play miniature golf; fee.
Get in the swing of things! Take the kids out for some mini golf at Golf Safari (239-466-5855; www.golfsafariminigolf.com), 3775 Bonita Beach Rd., Bonita Beach, open 10 AM–10 PM daily; or Smugglers Cove Adventure Golf (941-466-5855; www.smugglersgolf.com), 17450 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers Beach, which is known for its pirate ships and live gators on the course, open 9 AM–11 PM daily. Mini golf is also a part of Mike Greenwell’s Family Fun Park (239-574-4386; www.greenwellsfamilyfunpark.com), 35 Pine Island Rd., Cape Coral, where you can try out batting cages, four go-cart tracks, and the video arcade. They’re open 10 AM–10 PM Sun.–Thurs., 10 AM–11 PM Fri.–Sat.
FISHING Known as the “fishingest bridge in Florida,” the Matlacha Bridge on Pine Island Rd., Matlacha, hosts an assortment of characters every day. But if sportfishing is your bag, you’ve come to the right place. Virtually any marina on the coast (see Boating) can hook you up with a professional guide to chase after tarpon or spend a day on the flats. If you’ve always wanted to cast but never tried, sign up for the Backwater Fishing School (1-800-755-1099; www.bwfishingschool.com), hosted at Tarpon Lodge (see Lodging), a three-day course with hands-on experience to make you the expert you’ve always dreamed of being.
Check in at Getaway Marina (see Boating) for their famous night snapper fishing cruise—you catch, they’ll clean. The expedition departs on Tuesday and Friday nights at 6 PM and returns around 1 AM, and your fare includes rod, reel, license, bait, and tackle. During the day, they run the Great Getaway between 9 AM–3 PM, sailing up to 30 miles offshore for deep sea fishing with all the frills, including a full galley, separate accommodations for men and ladies, and crew that’ll help teach you how to fish.
GAMING At Naples–Fort Myers Greyhound Racing (239-992-2411; www.naplesfortmyersdogs.com), 10601 Bonita Beach Rd., Bonita Springs, relax in the clubhouse or get involved in an unlimited-pot poker game during live races. Simulcasts are also offered.
HIKING Thanks to an aggressive public land–acquisition program, Lee County (www.leeparks.org) offers hikers dozens of spectacular choices for day hikes and a handful of places to take a backpacking trip. Many options are outlined in 50 Hikes in South Florida, and most of the Green Space listings feature at least a nature trail for a short walk. If you only have time to sample a few short hikes, don’t miss the haunting boardwalk loop through Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (see Preserves) in Fort Myers, a walk through the mangrove tunnels at Four Mile Cove Ecological Preserve (see Preserves) in Cape Coral, and an exploration of the trail system at the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation (see Wild Places).
PADDLING The Great Calusa Blueway (239-461-7400; www.GreatCalusaBlueway.com) is one of Florida’s most comprehensive saltwater paddling trails, with more than 190 miles of coastline to explore. Rent a kayak or bring your own and explore the sheltered waters of Estero Bay, or follow the trail along the island coastlines of Pine Island Sound. Launch points for Estero Bay include the Imperial River at US 41, Koreshan Historic State Park (see Historic Sites), Matanzas Pass Preserve (see Preserves), and Fish Tale Marina (see Boating), among many others. Check the Web site or call for a comprehensive map of the paddling trail.
On the islands, rent kayaks at Captiva Kayak Co. (see Ecotours) or at Gulf Coast Kayak (239-283-1125; www.gulfcoastkayak.com), 4530 Pine Island Rd., Matlacha, where they also offer guided tours. Paddle the mangrove forests of Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge by renting a kayak from Tarpon Bay Explorers (239-472-8900; www.tarponbayexplorers.com), 900 Tarpon Bay Rd., on Sanibel Island; guided tours are also available by reservation. Tours of Mound Key are available from Estero River Outfitters (239-992-4050; www.esteroriveroutfitters.com), as well as rentals to take a canoe out on Estero Bay on your own.
SAILING For more than 40 years, Steve and Doris Colgate’s Offshore Sailing School (1-800-221-4326; www.offshore-sailing.com) has trained students how to raise a sail, catch the wind, and then tack back to port with a series of in-depth hands-on courses that turn landlubbers into live-aboards. Offered year-round at the South Seas Island Resort marina on Captiva Island, Learn to Sail courses run from three to nine days. Check the Web site for seasonal pricing.
SCENIC DRIVES A slow drive—or, better yet, a bicycle ride—down Banyan Street in Boca Raton will leave you marveling at the wonder of these fast growing tropical trees, members of the ficus family that so quickly knit a dense canopy overhead while putting down roots from their branches. You’ll feel like you’re in a tropical tunnel! And if you see a giant lizard cross the road, well, it’s not your imagination. Unfortunately for native wildlife, a colony of iguanas lives on the island, and there are Nile monitors as well.
Seashells along the sandy strands of the barrier islands can grow to impressive sizes—but you’ll have to be the early bird after high tide recedes to claim your treasure. Look for the best shells where the tides sweep around curved land at the tip of Boca Grande Pass within Gasparilla Island State Park (see Beaches).
It takes a ferryboat ride (see Getting There) or a boat to get to Cayo Costa State Park (see Beaches), but one of the best reasons to go is the shelling. On one visit there in the fall, I found pen shells scattered like leaves across the beach—a scene I hadn’t seen in these parts since I was a kid. Tulip shells, apple murex, olive shells, and periwinkle were mine for the taking. From the campground, wander south along the beach for the best shelling.
The parking fees are a small price to pay for access to Sanibel Island on the morning after a raging storm, as this barrier island is renowned as having the best shell-collecting beaches in North America. Beyond the typical jingle shells, quahogs, and cockles, you’ll find such beauties as alphabet cone, sunray venus, thorny sea star, and apple murex. The secret? Sanibel is a barrier island with an east-west orientation, while Florida’s barrier islands normally run north-south, protecting the coastline. Identify your finds with a visit to the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum (see Museums). Peak season for shelling is May through September, off-season from the usual crowds, and local charter captains offer expeditions to islands and sandbars.
SEA SHELLS AT BOCA GRANDE
Sandra Friend
A sanctuary set in a mangrove forest, the Sanibel Harbour Spa (239-466-2264 or 239-466-2156; www.sanibel-resort.com/spa) at the Sanibel Harbour Resort (see Hotels, Motels, and Resorts), offers tranquility through its broad range of treatments. Step inside a retreat of bamboo and stone, where the concierge will walk you through the possibilities: perhaps a Pedisage for those weary feet, or a Sea Shell Body Mask to nourish your body? For couples, the Caloosa Experience builds intimacy through relaxation. The spa also offers a BETAR (Bio Energetic Transduction Aided Resonance) bed, an immersive mind-body experience within a geodesic dome. Treatments start at $75; call ahead for your appointment.
A patrons-only elevator at the Pink Shell Resort (see Hotels, Motels, and Resorts) whisks you upstairs to the Aquagene Spa (239-463-8648; www.aquagenespa.com), where swirling, dimpled iridescent tiles evoke the calm of the sea. Whether it’s a Romantic Rendezvous (complete with sugar scrub or salt glow, couples massage, champagne, and chocolate-dipped strawberries for two, $360) or a simple De-stress massage ($60 for 25 minutes), they’re ready to assist, with a long list of services and spa packages to please. Open Mon.–Sat. 8:30 AM–6 PM, Sun. 8:30 AM–5 PM.
SWIMMING The beaches along Lee County’s barrier islands are ideal for swimming—the Gulf waters are warm and clear. My favorite spot is Bowman’s Beach on Sanibel Island, but you have dozens of places to choose from (see Beaches).
After hours spent walking on sand and stooping to pick up shells, I could think of no better pick-me-up than a massage to erase my burnout from the beach. And wrapped in flickering candlelight amid the muted earth tones at Esterra Spa & Salon (239-765-4SPA; www.esterraspa.com), 6231 Estero Blvd., it was more than a massage, it was a ritual of relaxation. My choice—hot stone massage, a new-to-me treatment that evolved into a sensory experience, not at all like the standard massages I typically request. I could not see the stones, but I could feel them, at once warm, smooth, round, and heavy, slipped into my palms, between my tired toes, and, in the hands of the masseuse, used to stretch my aching muscles. Afterward, I was ready for a nap. My experience was one of many available from an extensive menu that plays into the need for refreshing your body while at the beach, with treatments like milk and honey body wraps that help with sunburned skin, Salt Glow with Vichy shower to assist in exfoliation and hydration, and a Get the Red Out facial to help repair damaged cells. Open Mon.–Sat. 9 AM–6 PM, Sun. 10 AM–4 PM.
SUNSPLASH FAMILY WATERPARK IN CAPE CORAL
Sandra Friend
WATER PARK Built as a county recreation park in 1992, Sunsplash Family Waterpark (941-574-0557; www.sunsplashwaterpark.com) 400 Santa Barbara Blvd., Cape Coral has undergone an extreme makeover in 2008 to be one hopping water park. You’ll keep the kids entertained all day with its variety of water play, including a frog pond with floating lily pads, a pool with drop slides just for teens, a lazy float down the “Main Stream River,” racing slides for small children, the Tot Spot with water cannons and short slides in a shallow pool, another pool for the whole family, rollicking slides like the Electric Slide and Power Surge, and the drops for the daring—Thunder Bump, Terror Tube, and the X-celerator, all overlooking Lake Kennedy. A deli and café offer on-site eats, or you can get the family together at the picnic pavilion for a catered lunch. $17 for people over 48 inches tall (except seniors, $9), $15 for under 48 inches tall (except ages 2 and younger, $4), discount after 2 PM. Parking $3. Open Mar.–Sept. with varying hours.
Green SpaceGasparilla Island State Park (941-964-0375; www.floridastateparks.org/gasparillaisland) is a string of five beaches along Gulf Boulevard, with the best (in my opinion) to be found at the mouth of Charlotte Harbor, in front of the historic Boca Grande lighthouse. Sandspur Beach, closer to downtown, is popular with surfers trying to catch a wave when the weather’s rough. Fee.
CATCHING A WAVE AT BOCA GRANDE
Sandra Friend
Along a short stretch of secluded shoreline, Little Hickory Island Beach Park (239-949-4615), 26082 Hickory Blvd., offers a wheelchair-accessible strand of pure white sand, with restrooms, picnic tables, and showers. Fee.
At the end of a lengthy mangrove-lined causeway is a hidden treasure—715 acres of protected waterfront known as Bunche Beach (239-765-6794), 18201 John Morris Rd., on San Carlos Bay. This natural area is a historic site, dedicated in 1949 to honor Dr. Ralph Johnson Bunche, the first person of color to win the Nobel Peace Prize. Prior to desegregation, this strip of sand was the designated beach for African-Americans who lived in the area. Free.
You won’t go wrong with a visit to the beach, as the beaches around Fort Myers draw visitors from around the world. Fort Myers Beach provides easy access for visitors with small parking areas at the end of nearly every dead-end street along Estero Boulevard (FL 865), and a large parking area with facilities (showers and restrooms) and picnic tables at Lynn Hall Park on northern Estero Boulevard.
Or continue down the dead-end road to the north end of Fort Myers Beach for a quiet piece of sand all your own at Bowditch Point Regional Preserve (239-463-1116; www.leeparks.org), 50 Estero Blvd., where you can meander bark-chip trails leading to great views of Matanzas Pass and Sanibel Island and find your own quiet slice of undeveloped beach tucked under the shade of mangroves. A wheel-chair-accessible boardwalk leads from the central changing area and restrooms to the beach. Open 8 AM until a half hour after sunset. Fee.
For a unique beach experience, visit Lovers Key State Park (239-463-4588; www.floridastateparks.org/loverskey), 8700 Estero Blvd. (SR 865). A tram runs visitors through the mangrove swamps and out to the slim strip of beach, which is made up entirely of washed-up and eroded islands of seashells held together by cabbage palms, gumbo limbo, and mangroves. Shell collectors can have a blast just sifting through the bounty under their picnic table. Fee. The new bayside part of the park offers picnic tables, a playground, kayak launch, and restrooms. Free.
Dog Beach (941-463-2081), 160 Bahia Via, at Lovers Key just west of New Pass, is where you can let your canine friends romp in the surf. Free.
To feel like a castaway, take the Tropic Star (see Getting Around) from Pine Island to Cayo Costa State Park (941-964-1154; www.floridastateparks.org/cayocosta). No matter whether you spend a day or camp overnight at the primitive campground (cabins available by reservation), you’ll enjoy the serenity of long walks along the beach of an unspoiled barrier island—great shelling guaranteed.
Parking is more limited for the renowned beaches of Sanibel and Captiva Islands, and it’ll cost you if you aren’t staying on the island: In addition to the $6 toll for the Sanibel Causeway, you’ll fork out an hourly charge at every beach parking lot on the islands. Some parking areas provide restrooms, a changing room with outdoor shower, and potable water. Bowman’s Beach has a wilderness feel, while the Sanibel Lighthouse Beach is a popular sunning beach in the shadow of the historic lighthouse. Gulfside Park offers picnic tables and barbecue grills overlooking the ocean, as well as a nature trail. Anglers and sunset watchers head to Turner Beach, where Sanibel and Captiva Islands meet across the filled-in Blind Pass.
NATURE CENTERS Heaven and earth meet at the Calusa Nature Center and Planetarium (239-275-3183; www.calusanature.com), 3450 Ortiz Ave., Fort Myers, where a daily planetarium show (the only one in southwest Florida) complements the center’s main mission of introducing you to the natural history of the Fort Myers area. Explore the reptile tanks to see the many species of turtles, snakes, lizards, and salamanders that inhabit the region, and learn the difference between the resident American alligator (pointed snout, dark body) and American crocodile (rounded snout, grayish body). A 0.6-mile wheelchair-accessible nature trail leads past an Audubon-maintained aviary of raptors and through a representative slough habitat, where volunteers battle to rid the swamp forest of invasive melaleuca. A rougher hiking trail starts at a replica Calusa village and loops around the center’s 105 acres. Check the center’s bulletin boards for information on ongoing environmental education programs open to the public. Open 9 AM–5 PM Mon.–Sat., 11 AM–5 PM Sun. Adults $9, ages 3–12 $6.
Lee County’s first certified green building is the new Interpretive Center for Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (239-432-2004; www.leeparks.org/sixmile), 7751 Penzance Blvd. Stop here first for an understanding of the complexity of the habitats of southwest Florida, where rainfall seeps in sheet flows toward the sea. The network of boardwalks spanning this ecologically significant cypress slough enables you to enjoy lush bromeliads, primordial strap ferns, and flag ponds with resident alligators. Look closely in spring and summer for the delicate blooms of wild orchids in the cypress boughs. Join a guided interpretive walk to learn more about the swamp; walks are offered January through March daily 9:30 AM and 1:30 PM, May through October on Wednesday at 9:30 AM, and April/November/ December daily at 9:30 AM. Fee.
Several parks provide public access to the Caloosahatchee River, including the W. P. Franklin Lock Recreation Area off SR 80, with a picnic area and fishing. On the north side of the river, you can hike, camp, ride your bike, or bring a horse—the Caloosahatchee Regional Park (239-694-0398), 18500 N River Rd., has plenty of room for all sorts of activities. Walking trails lead out to riverside views, and wildlife encounters (especially with deer) are almost assured. Fee. Manatee Park (239-690-5030), 10901 Palm Beach Blvd., is a small park off the Caloosahatchee River providing seasonal access to view manatees near a power plant west of I-75. Free.
Popular Lakes Regional Park (239-432-2000), 7330 Gladiolus Dr., provides 279 acres of outdoor recreation, from swimming and canoeing to bicycling and hiking. A 2.5-mile paved trail system winds through the park, bridging numerous islands within the lakes. Wander the Fragrance Garden to take in the complex aromas. On weekends, you can rent paddleboats, kayaks, and canoes to explore the waterways. A water playground and a rock-climbing wall offer a place for kids to let off steam. Fee.
At Four Mile Cove Ecological Preserve (239-549-4606), SE 23rd Terrace, rent a canoe and explore secluded mangrove forests along the Caloosahatchee River, or take to the trail and enjoy a 1-mile stroll along a winding boardwalk. Walk softly, and you’ll see yellow-crowned herons in the trees and little blue herons in the channels. Bring your fishing pole and relax along a pier with a broad view of the Fort Myers waterfront. This 365-acre saltwater marsh preserve provides a rare green space in the city of Cape Coral, next to the Midpoint Bridge. Free.
Walk down the mangrove-lined trails of Matanzas Pass Preserve (239-765-4222), 199 Bay Rd., to experience the unique estuarine mangrove forest environment. Clad in red and black speckled shells, mangrove crabs scurry down the gnarled roots of the red mangroves. The pathways lead you out to an unspoiled panorama of Matanzas Pass, where a canoe launch awaits your craft. Free.
With more than 1,100 acres protecting the realm of the Florida scrub jay and gopher tortoise, Hickey’s Creek Mitigation Park (239-728-6240), 17980 FL 80, is a great getaway for long hikes, easy walks along the creek, and paddling on this winding cypress-lined blackwater creek. Fee.
Where the Estero River meets the bay, Estero Bay Preserve State Park (941-463-3240; www.floridastateparks.org/esterobay), end of Broadway west of US 41, has more than 5 miles of loop trails to walk and explore wet flatwoods and the tidal marsh on the edge of the estuary, where fiddler crabs scurry across the mud flats. Another access point is in Fort Myers—Winkler Point (239-992-0311), a watery wilderness along the edge of Estero Bay, at the end of Winkler Road. Roam wet flatwoods and estuarine fringe for up to 5 miles on trails where you are virtually guaranteed to get your feet wet. Free.
Encompassing more than half of Sanibel Island, J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge (239-472-1100; www.fws.gov/dingdarling), One Wildlife Dr., hosts more than 100,000 visitors each year, the highest visitation in the entire National Wildlife Refuge system. Before taking to the trails or to Wildlife Drive, the popular one-way driving tour through the mangrove swamps, stop in at the visitors center for an excellent orientation on Sanibel’s unique attraction to migratory birds. Closed Fri. Fee. Across the road, the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation (239-472-2329; www.sccf.org), 3333 Sanibel Captiva Rd., provides miles of hiking through tropical and coastal habitats, including a walk along the freshwater Sanibel River. The organization has actively been preserving every parcel of Sanibel they can buy; you’ll see their signs in many places along the bike trails on the island.
Lodging
One of my most luxurious stays in Florida has been at the Bokeelia Tarpon Inn (239-283-8961 or 1-866-TARPON2; www.tarponinn.com), 8241 Main St., in the historic Poe-Johnson House, built 1914. There is no television in the great room, just a fine selection of music, board games, and books, and a pantry and fridge brimming with delights such as Dove ice cream bits, fresh tropical fruit, potpies, and cheese. Once a sea captain’s home, this grand residence underwent $1 million in renovations to restore it to its natural beauty, with every heart pine and cypress board removed, refinished, and replaced. The simple, uncluttered furnishings of wood and white wicker make it easy to relax and enjoy the sea breezes off Boca Grande Pass. Each room ($159–325) has its own decorative flair, but you’ll end up spending most of your time in the vast common areas, enjoying the views and the company. A gourmet breakfast is served for guests each morning. Guests have access to a boat ramp, dockage, and a 300-foot pier on the pass, perfect for idling away the day; the more active will appreciate the bicycles and golf carts for transportation, and kayaks for exploring Jug Creek.
Dating from the days of Thomas Edison and built by timber magnate William H. Dowling in 1912 on the far shore of the Caloosahatchee River, the Hibiscus House (239-332-2651; www.hibiscushouse.com), 2135 McGregor Blvd., was sawed in two in the 1940s and sent across the river on a barge to be set up in its present location along the Avenue of Palms. With tongue-and-groove pine walls and ceilings, original glass windows, and classy furnishings, the five-bedroom bed & breakfast provides an excellent venue for visitors who want to explore downtown and the historic district on foot. Decked out in light tropical decor, each of the five rooms ($89–210) has a special ambiance themed after local flora. The Palm includes a writing desk and television. Common spaces include a poinciana-shaded sitting room in the rear of the house, a small front parlor where guests can watch television or chat, and a massive dining area where a full gourmet breakfast is served. Bring your swim suit—this is one of the few B&Bs that has its own pool, tucked in a tropical garden.
With its four spacious guest rooms, A Bayview Bed & Breakfast (239-283-7510; www.webbwiz.com/bayviewbb), 12251 Shoreview Dr., is a great little getaway just off the main thoroughfare. Balconies overlook Matlacha Pass, and a resident osprey hangs out around the docks. Grab a canoe, and paddle the estuary behind the house. Each room ($109–199) has a television and phone and a small fridge. Well-behaved children and small pets welcome.
If you’re towing your rig and want to get away from it all, head for the quiet KOA Pine Island (239-283-2415; www.pineislandkoa.com), 5120 Stringfellow Rd., St. James City. In a secluded pine forest surrounded by mango groves, this campground offers a pool, spa, and exercise room, with tent sites, RV sites, and Kamping Kabins. Of the many amenities offered, one of the best is a free shuttle to the beach, attractions, and shopping, offered December through April. Rates $38 and up.
For a real deserted island getaway at an affordable price, pack your tent or reserve a cabin at Cayo Costa State Park (see Beaches), accessible only by boat. While marooned on this barrier island, explore more than 6 miles of hiking trails and walk miles of unspoiled beachfront, where shelling is some of the best in the United States. Primitive tent sites are $17; primitive cabins, $27. The park also manages the historic Jug Creek Cottages in Bokeelia, which start at $66 off-season and can be rented by the week.
Along I-75 you’ll see many camper manufacturers with large lots with RVs and trailers for sale off Luckett Road; many are factory outlets. Scout the region around them for campgrounds and RV parks east of the city, such as Upriver Campground Resort (239-543-3330 or 1-800-848-1652; www.upriver.com), 17021 Upriver Dr., and Pioneer Village (239-543-3303 or 1-877-897-2757; www.rvonthego.com), 7974 Samville Rd.
Coral-rock cottages around a circular lake define Rock Lake Resort (239-332-4080 or 1-800-325-7596; www.bestlodgingswflorida.com/rocklake/index.html), 2937 Palm Beach Blvd., a 1940s classic with nine efficiencies offering a charming slice of Old Florida. Kick back on the porch and read a book, or paddle along scenic Billy Creek, a tributary of the Caloosahatchee. Cottages run $63–105 and adjoin a new city park.
For an intimate getaway with your sweetheart, try Seahorse Cottages (239-472-4262; www.seahorsecottages.com), 1223 Buttonwood Ln., an “adults-only” property in Old Town Sanibel. Lounge in the hammock, relax in the dip pool, take a bicycle and ride up to the shops, or grab beach umbrellas and towels and walk up the street to the Gulf. These housekeeping cottages include cable TV and VCR, CD and cassette players, and phones; guest laundry. Rates $90–255, depending on size and season.
Built in 1925, The Anchor Inn (941-964-5600; www.anchorinnbocagrande.com), 450 Fourth St., is the perfect getaway for aficionados of true Florida Cracker cottage style. Each room or suite ($170–321) comes with a full kitchen and your own courtesy golf cart for getting around the island. Multiday stays are expected, as there is an additional cleaning fee.
Touting “waterfront lodging on the bayou,” The Innlet (941-964-2294; www.innletonthewaterfront.com), 11th St. and East Ave., has a very pretty location with waterfront rooms ($110–165) on a mangrove-lined canal, ample parking for boat trailers, a restaurant on the premises, and boat slips and a boat ramp for visitors.
Stay in quaint, colorful 1940s beach cottages with gingerbread trim at Captiva Island Inn (1-800-454-9898; www.captivaislandinn.com), 11509 Andy Rosse Ln., where the hand-sponged walls lend an artsy touch in this very artsy downtown. Each building has its own name and theme (and, in some cases, story), be it the Orchid Cottage, where Anne Morrow Lindbergh stayed while writing her classic Gift from the Sea; or the Jasmine Cottage, which overlooks a secret garden. The inn also has a large house with upscale rooms centered around a massive common area, perfect for family reunions. Rates start at $99 per night.
Newly reopened and fully renovated, South Seas Island Resort (239-472-5111; www.southseas.com), 5400 Plantation Dr., has a new shine after five years of post-Hurricane Charley recovery, reorganization, and restoration. Captiva Island grows slender here, as it reaches its northern tip, and the access road through the resort sits right amid the mangroves and sea grapes. Along its length—which Uncle Bob’s Trolley will take you up and down—are a variety of accommodations that make up the complex, starting with the Beach Villas and Gulf Beach Villas at Chadwick’s Village, and the nearby Tennis Villas and Bayside Villas. I’d stayed here a decade ago, and a walk through several units convinced me that this is a whole new hotel. The furnishings have modern flair, the floors a natural feel, and small touches make all the difference, like glass block letting natural light illuminate a bathtub, and the televisions are flat-screen with a built-in DVD player. In all, there are more than 600 hotel rooms and a variety of privately owned beach homes available to choose from. At The Pointe, the very tip of the island, Harborside Village has more than a dozen different clusters of accommodations and is the hub of recreational activity. Here you’ll find a zero-entry pool with an almost infinity view into Pine Island Sound, a 9-hole, par 3 seaside golf course, and the harbor itself, home to Captiva Cruises (see Ecotours), the Offshore Sailing School (see Sailing), Holiday Water Sports, and Best Boats. There’s plenty for the younger set to do, including a large supervised arcade, the nature center, the Tiva Kids Club, and just splashing and snorkeling in the sea—the simple times I enjoyed greatly on my visits here. Make sure you stop for ice cream at the new Scoops, a homage-to-the-50s ice cream parlor. Prefer adult beverages? Try the Sunset Beach Bar, Starbucks, and Wine Flight Up, a trendy wine bar just outside the resort gates. Plan a weekend or a week of relaxation at this historic coconut plantation; they’ll take care of everything for you. For rooms and suites, rates range from $109–350; small houses, $219–419; 5–6 bedroom houses, $899–2,500. Watch for their Florida resident specials.
An enchanting mix of historic cottages and modern motel rooms, the ’Tween Waters Inn (239-472-5161 or 1-800-223-5865; www.tween-waters.com), Captiva Rd., is an island getaway where authors, artists, and presidents have played since 1926. J. N. “Ding” Darling had his winter studio here, and you can now stay in it, or you can walk in the footsteps of Charles Lindbergh and Teddy Roosevelt by borrowing their getaways. The lovely Jasmine Cottage overlooks Pine Island Sound. The inn is a destination in itself—there are miles of uncrowded beaches, dockage, on-site fishing guides, guided kayaking tours, tennis courts, an Olympic-sized pool, children’s pool, and several on-site restaurants and shops, plus a new day spa on the premises. Rates ($180–495) vary by season and size of unit, with special package rates, and all include continental breakfast.
At the tip of old Punta Rassa, Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa (239-466-4000; www.sanibelresort.com), 17260 Harbour Point Dr., is one of the premier resorts in the region, located where sport fishing truly began on this coast, when the Tarpon House was a draw for sportsmen in the late 1800s. With buildings tucked into the coastal forest and connecting boardwalks through the mangroves, the resort feels like it’s been here forever. The grand lobby features broad windows overlooking San Carlos Bay and Sanibel Island. Guests can dine at six different restaurants in the complex, enjoying Charley’s Cabana Bar for the ultimate sunset, or the Tarpon House for a more intimate meal. Guest rooms have relaxed Tommy Bahama décor, putting you in an island mood. Deluxe waterfront rooms include a private balcony and mini-bar; executive suites have spacious living rooms and king beds. There’s an endless array of activities to enjoy on-site, from cruises on the Sanibel Harbour Princess to kayak rentals, lazing at the pool, or working out at the fitness center. Parents can drop the kids off at the Kids Club while they while away the hours at the Spa (see Spas). Rates start at $199, with many specials and packages available.
Step back into classic road-trip tourism at the Sea Chest Motel (239-332-1545), 2571 E First St., a good old-time Florida motel with 30 spacious rooms and kitchenettes ($40–85), all with updated furnishings. There is a private pier for guests, and the swimming pool overlooks the Caloosahatchee River.
Right on the beach, The Beacon (239-463-5264; www.thebeaconmotel.com), 1240 Estero Blvd., is the playful place to stay. The retro complex has 14 rooms ($69–209) and a cottage ($129–219) with private beach access, including several with a direct view of the Gulf. These are roomy accommodations with tile floors and updated furnishings. Some have full kitchens, all include a microwave, refrigerator, coffeemaker, and toaster. Breakfast is included with your stay.
The tropical ambiance of Holiday Court Bayfront Villas and Suites (239-463-2830), 925 Estero Blvd., drew me right in. It’s an old-fashioned motel with villas decorated in bright Caribbean colors, with wicker chairs for relaxing, a shuffleboard court, and dockage right on the inlet, with no fee for guests who arrive by boat. Their swimming pool overlooks the harbor, or you can walk across the street to the beach. Most of the rooms are newly renovated, and those that aren’t are available at a discount, $95–269.
Situated in the heart of downtown, the Lighthouse Island Resort Inn and Suites (239-463-9392 or 1-800-778-7748; www.lighthouseislandresort.com), 1051 Fifth Ave., provides a comfortable oasis of greenery where visitors can relax around the pools, make small talk at the tiki bar, and kick back on the balcony to watch the sunset. Easy access to the beach at Lynn Hall Park and the quaint shops and restaurants of downtown make this an ideal location for a multiday stay. This is a family-oriented facility, and pets are welcome for an additional charge. Most rooms contain either a kitchenette or full kitchen with full-sized appliances, great for the needs of a family on the go. Each suite provides multiple bedrooms, a kitchen, and living/dining area. Although many of the units date back nearly 50 years, extensive renovations ensure up-to-date facilities. The newest section of the inn, added in 2000, features the largest suites and elevator access to the upper floors. Rooms $79–255, depending on season, size, and features.
Hidden under the bridge, the Matanzas Inn (239-463-9258 or 1-800-462-9258; www.matanzasinn.com), 414 Crescent St., offers pleasant and spacious waterfront apartments on the bay and motel rooms shaded by mango trees, with 26 units of various sizes ($69–284, weekly rates available) and a waterfront pool and spa; daily housekeeping, guest laundry, an award-winning restaurant, and dockage round out the amenities. You’re within a few minutes walk of the bustling downtown and the beach.
Evolving out of a lovely grouping of pink cottages along the tip of Fort Myers Beach, the new Pink Shell Beach Resort & Spa (1-800-237-5786; www.pinkshell.com), 275 Estero Blvd., embraces the fun of a family beach vacation. The original pink-shingled cottages (pink shingles were all the rage in the 1950s) were built by Roxie Smith’s family, and several of the cottages still stand along the sound, available for guests who want to recapture the past. But the latest evolution of this resort reaches skyward, with five beachfront towers of varying heights offering guests stellar views of the Gulf of Mexico and Sanibel Island. The heart of the complex is the White Sand Villas, where you check in for your stay. This tower is home to the Aquagene Spa (see Spas), the pool-side Bongo’s Bar & Grill, JoJo’s at the Beach (see Eating Out), and more. Dominated by a large faux tree draped in Spanish moss, the lobby and other common spaces have playful cat paintings in prominent places. Sparky, the resort mascot, is a cool cat who loves to surf, and you’ll find him popping up around the undersea fantasy Octopool and at Sparky’s Splash Pool, a zero-entry water playground with sprayers and coconut palms that dump water. Get the kids involved in activities at KiddsKamp, where they’ll learn about native flora and fauna, go fishing, or compete in games at the pool. Next stop—the beach! Walk down the ramp into the soft, warm sand. Settle back in a beach chair, or take a slow walk down to Bowditch Point (see Beaches), scanning the shore for shells. One and two bedroom suites in the White Sand Villas are apartment-sized and immaculate, with spacious living and dining space, a full kitchen with an icemaker and water in the refrigerator door, and a bath that boasts both shower and garden tub. The Captiva Villas have kitchenettes, but the end units offer giant screened rooms overlooking the gulf and the sound. The Sanibel View Villas are farther from the action and closer to the wild shore at Bowditch Point, with a butterfly garden at their base. Guests enjoy free parking underneath their villas and in open lots. The cottages come with their own dock and gas grill, updated cabinetry, a large walk-in closet, and full kitchen, all overlooking Matanzas Pass. Room rates start at $149 off-season, with one bedroom suites $169–289 and two bedrooms $269 and up.
Beneath the bridge you’ll also find the Sun Deck Resort (239-463-1842; sundeckresort.com), 1051 3rd St., another classic motel from the 1960s, this one with seven unique units ($70–250) within a maze of pathways and levels under a canopy of tropical plantings. Some are kitchenettes, and one has a full kitchen. At the top of the stack is Hyannis, a 2-bedroom, 2-bath apartment with its own private decks and a spiral wooden staircase inside leading up to the sleeping quarters. It’s a quirky, fun place just a short walk from Times Square and the beach.
You can’t get more waterfront than the Bridgewater Inn (239-283-2423 or 1-800-378-7666; www.bridgewaterinn.com), which sits on pilings right next to the “fishingest bridge” atop Matlatcha Pass. But who needs to walk to fish when you can drop a line off your deck? All nine rooms ($109–239) are accessed by the deck around the building, and many can interconnect, making this a great destination for big families. They come in a variety of configurations. Room #1 has a living room, full- and queen-sized beds, full kitchen, and dining room. Room #8 is a tropical nook with a fridge and three full-sized beds. And #2 is the deluxe model, a spacious corner suite with a primo view and a large flat-screen TV. Dockage is available for a small fee.
Spacious waterfront rooms make the Best Western Fort Myers Waterfront (239-997-5511 or 1-800-274-5511; www.bestwesternwaterfront.com), 13021 N Cleveland Ave., stand out from the typical chain hotel; every room has a balcony overlooking the Caloosahatchee River, facing downtown on the far shore. Each of the island-themed rooms ($81 and up) feature large closets, an oversized television, and a huge tiled bathroom, and you can walk right downstairs to Pincher’s Crab Shack (see Where to Eat) for dinner.
Be pampered in historic surroundings at Tarpon Lodge (239-283-3999; www.tarponlodge.com), 13771 Waterfront Dr., where the Wells family continues to build on a long history of hospitality. This genteel getaway attracted anglers back in 1926 as the Pine-Aire Lodge and continues to do so today. Of the 21 inviting guest rooms ($115–245) overlooking Pine Island Sound, choose from a room in the Island House annex or in the historic original lodge. The Useppa and Cabbage Key Rooms have fabulous sunset views. The landscaped grounds include a beautiful waterfront swimming pool and a pier with a boathouse (now available as lodging, $235–310), where many visitors and locals amble out to watch the sun set over Useppa Island. The family also manages the rental cottages on offshore Cabbage Key, a quiet tropical getaway accessible only by private boat or local passenger ferry.
A cute little complex with Old Florida flair, Two Fish Inn (239-283-4519; www.twofishinn.com), 2960 Oleander St., has five spiffy suites ($99 and up) named for fish you’ll find in these waters, and the Island House, a spacious home away from home. The suites have just enough kitchen for you to prep your meals and enjoy them, too. Soak in the tropical pool, or borrow a bicycle, kayak, or canoe to explore the island. Captain Charlie runs charters for fishing ($350) or shelling ($200) right from their dock! With free dockage right outside each front door, the Water’s Edge Motel and Apartments (239-283-0515; www.thewatersedgemotel.com), 2938 Sanibel Blvd., is a gem of a family motel, now in the second generation of family ownership. Rooms range from standard motel through efficiency ($89 and up) and a one-bedroom apartment with hardwood built-ins. It’s a popular family-reunion destination, so book ahead!
When I was a kid, my family stayed at the Anchor Inn & Cottages (239-395-9688 or 1-866-469-9543; www.sanibelanchorinn.com), 1245 Periwinkle Way, and every time I’ve visited Sanibel since, passing by the distinctive A-frame cottages reminds me of those childhood days. So I was delighted when I stopped in and discovered everything still has that “stopped in time” feel, sparkling new and clean and 1960s—solid construction with concrete walls and wooden ceilings, old-fashioned terrazzo floors and tiled showers, and verandas outside each of the 12 rooms ($89–179 for standard efficiency to two-bedroom, and $150–270 for the spacious A-frame cottages).
Within walking distance of the beach, The Palm View Inn (239-472-1606 or 1-877-472-1606; www.palmviewsanibel.com), 706 Donax St., offers luxurious themed suites amid a tropical garden, where quiet outdoor courtyard alcoves and a Jacuzzi and barbecue grill await guests. Each newly renovated unit offers a full kitchen, phone, and Internet access. Complimentary guest laundry and use of a kayak, bicycles, and beach toys are included with your stay. There are five units, including efficiencies and two-room suites ($85–185 depending on season and size).
The cozy, Caribbean-themed Sandpiper Inn (239-472-1529 or 1-877-227-4737; www.gosandpiper.com), 720 Donax St., has one-bedroom, one-bath suites with kitchen, sitting area, and a balcony or patio for you to catch the sea breeze. All housekeeping supplies are included, plus complimentary beach accessories, coolers, and bicycles. Adults only, $69–165.
Tucked away in a lush tropical garden, the intimate Tarpon Tale Inn (239-472-0939; www.tarpontale.com), 367 Periwinkle Way, has eight units along a private courtyard with hot tub and hammocks. Choose from partial or full kitchens. Each room has tiled floors and wicker furnishings, and guests can use the shelling table to clean their finds or borrow beach umbrellas and bicycles for an excursion; rates $90–220.
Where to EatA local favorite since 1911, The Pink Elephant (941-964-0100; www.the-gasparilla-inn.com/din_pinkelephant.php), 500 Palm Ave. (at the Gasparilla Inn), is best known for its fresh seafood, featuring locally caught grouper, pompano, and snapper served “Floribbean” style. An extensive wine list complements the menu, which also includes lamb, veal, and hand-cut Angus steaks.
In a historic downtown storefront, The Temptation Restaurant (941-964-2610), 350 Park Ave., has pleased its customers for more than 50 years with top-notch lunches and dinners featuring fresh local fish and seafood plus great steaks. Save room for dessert! Reservations recommended.
It’s fun, funky, and 1940s—a pink palace of movie memorabilia, Christmas ornaments, and tin toys. One of Captiva’s most distinctive dining experiences, The Bubble Room (239-472-5558; www.bubbleroomrestaurant.com), 15001 Captiva Dr., offers sinfully delightful desserts and mouthwatering fresh breads with some of the island’s best seafood. Although the prices say fine dining, the atmosphere is casual—T-shirts and sandals are acceptable. Decked out in a unique scouting uniform, your “Bubble Scout” attends to your every request. Served from 11:30 AM to 2:30 PM, lunch specialties ($9–13) include salads and sandwiches such as the Okra-Homa, with shrimp, okra, and corn cakes. For dinner ($20–33) try the Eddie Fisherman, a fillet of local grouper rolled in brown sugar and pecans and poached in a brown paper bag, or Some Like it Hot Hot Hot, tasty fresh Gulf shrimp in a garlic tequila butter sauce. Many patrons go for the Tiny Bubble, the least-expensive entrée option: a choice of appetizer, fresh breads, house salad, and a slab of one of the Bubble Room’s tasty cakes. No matter how much room you leave for dessert, you’ll be taking some of the generous portion home. Don’t miss the fluffy White Christmas Cake, stuffed with slivered almonds and coconut, topped with whipped-cream frosting. With nearly a dozen dessert choices, you’ll find a perfect match.
In an elegant setting overlooking Pine Island Sound, The Green Flash (239-472-3337), 15183 Captiva Dr., offers tasty lunch ($7–10) and dinner ($14 and up) choices. I like the fruit de mer, with an assortment of sautéed seafood, and the grouper Café de Paris is the house specialty.
At ’Tween Waters Inn (see Lodging), the Old Captiva House serves up inspired variations on classic themes, including pecan crusted mahimahi with cherry buerre rouge, tropical rice and vegetable, and stuffed veal chop stuffed with rosemary and gouda, served with port wine glaze and saffron risotto; entrées $22 and up.
Since 1982, The Prawnbroker (239-489-2226; www.prawnbroker.com), 13451 McGregor Blvd. #16, has served up fresh fish in its fish market; check the daily “Fresh Fish Report” as you walk in. Enjoy your favorites fried, broiled, grilled, or blackened, or have your seafood in a classic pasta dish, dinners $12–25. Your entrée comes with warm fresh bread, and the portions are nicely sized. I enjoyed a platter of light and tasty almond fried shrimp on my last visit. Open for dinner with “Early Catch” specials between 4 PM–5:30 PM, $11–14.
Rich, dark wood and tasteful furnishings underscore the classy feel of The Veranda (239-332-2065; www.verandarestaurant.com), 2122 Second St., a fine restaurant in one of Fort Myers’s most historic venues. Built in 1902 by Manuel Gonzales, son of one of the original settlers, the complex joins together two homes at the corner of Second and Broadway, downtown. Diners look out over a secluded courtyard of tropical plants, accented with a waterfall flowing down into the fishpond. First opened as a restaurant in the 1970s, The Veranda’s lunch menu features tasty combinations such as Florida crab cakes with potato salad, or fried green tomato salad (my favorite!) with tidbits of Virginia ham and blue cheese sprinkled across a bed of mixed greens. Lunches are served 11 AM–2:30 PM and start at $8. The dinner menu ($28–39) shifts the emphasis to seafood and meat, with chateaubriand, veal Piccata, grilled fresh Florida grouper, and the Southern sampler of fresh fish, Gulf shrimp, and sea scallops in a lobster sherry cream sauce, delicious over a bed of fettuccine. Don’t miss the tempting appetizers: oysters Rockefeller, escargot in puff pastry with Stilton blue cheese sauce, and Southern grit cakes with andouille sausage. Desserts include Bailey’s Irish Cream Cheesecake and a delectable chocolate pâté with raspberry coulis, an artful presentation of a slab of cold fudgelike chocolate with a ribbon of maple walnut on a platter of raspberry sauce. Doors open for dinner at 5:30 PM, with meals served until 11 PM.
A four-star culinary experience, the Tarpon Lodge Restaurant (239-283-2517; www.tarponlodge.com/dining), 13771 Waterfront Dr., at Tarpon Lodge (see Lodging), overlooks Pine Island Sound. The slate of top-notch entrées ($16–32) includes preparations such as rosemary roasted chicken breast, veal Piccata, and aged filet mignon, and the tasty marinated portobello mushroom salad is a wonderful variant on traditional spinach salad. I appreciated the fresh-baked kalamata olive bread with olive oil for dipping; the rich and thick cream of mushroom soup was a delight. Meals are prepared using fresh herbs from the garden on-site. The friendly staff will gladly help you with recommendations to suit your palate. Reservations recommended.
As soon as it opened, eager fans showed up—Doc Ford’s Sanibel Rum Bar & Grille (239-472-8311; www.docfordssanibel.com), 975 Rabbit Rd., is a big hit with the mystery lovers’ crowd as it’s owned by author Randy Wayne White and set just a few minutes from the now-closed marina where Randy and fictional Doc Ford lived and worked. The building is a part of this novelist’s past—it’s a former fish house that supplied fresh catches. The exterior is painted with Florida forest scenes, the warm wooden interior evokes the sea, and the menu reflects the rural tropics in which Randy spent many years on assignment for Outside magazine. Choose from an extensive array of creative appetizers, inspired entrées such as Campeche fish tacos or banana leaf snapper, and unique salads and sandwiches; meals from $7. It’s a sports bar, too, so it gets noisy during the games, and there’s no chance you’ll miss the action with over a dozen flat-screen televisions around the place. The prominent and popular bar has a broad selection of premium rums, including Rum Jumbie and Myers Legend; some are aged a decade or two. Don’t forget to browse the Doc Ford books and souvenirs, including Randy’s own line of hot sauces inspired by his characters. Open daily 11 AM–close.
A top-notch seafood house, Jacaranda (239-472-1771; www.jacarandaonsanibel.com), 1223 Periwinkle Way, consistently wins “Taste of the Islands” awards in all categories. Selections include Florida snapper en Papillote, sesame-encrusted yellowfin tuna, roast duckling, Sanibel cowboy steak, and more; entrées $20 and up. Enjoy fresh oysters at the raw bar on the patio.
Drop in for homemade ice cream at Loose Caboose (941-964-0440; www.loosecaboose.biz), 433 W Fourth St., in the old railroad depot, or take the time for mini-burgers or a soup and salad. Open for lunch daily ($5–13).
The only place to dine oceanfront in Boca Grande is the classic South Beach Bar & Grille (941-964-0765), 777 Gulf Blvd., a tropical-themed casual eatery with a screened room overlooking the placid waters of the Gulf framed by sea grapes. Lunch sandwiches and baskets include fried oysters, grouper Reuben, and grilled cheese. Entrées lean on the bounty of the sea, including Florida crab cakes and fresh peel ’n’ eat shrimp.
At the end of Stringfellow Road, the picture windows of Capt’n Con’s Seafood House (239-283-4300) frame an idyllic Pine Island scene—fishing boats chug through the pass as brown pelicans dive in unison into schools of mullet shimmering beneath the waves. It’s one of the oldest buildings in Bokeelia, the site of the original post office at the town’s original steamer dock, circa 1904. Offering fresh fish, succulent steaks, and an ever-changing variety of down-home specials such as pot roast, meat loaf, and fried catfish, Capt’n Con’s provides excellent value for your dollar (dinners under $20), with daily all-you-can-eat seafood specials. Top your dinner off with a slice of homemade pie, and don’t miss Fran’s shrimp bisque, offered on Thursday.
At Marker 8, the Lazy Flamingo 3 (239-283-5959; www.lazyflamingo.com), 16501-B Stringfellow Rd., is a kick back and relax rustic Cracker shack with picnic tables and a bar—just the kind of place where you’ll find the seafood you love. Grab shucked-to-order oysters, steamer pots, conch chowder, and grouper a few different ways, or go for the “Dead Parrot” wings and spicy french fries, with entrées under $20. It’s a local favorite no matter the location (also found on Sanibel Island).
The lilac and green Keylime Bistro (239-395-0882; www.captivaislandinn.com), 11506 Andy Rosse Ln., will certainly catch your eye, and it’s a blast to settle down to the Sunday jazz brunch with a bunch of friends. Try the chicken voodoo, with sautéed artichokes, tomatoes, kalamata olives, capers, basil, and garlic; or paella Valencia, including shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels, chicken, and sausage. Yum! Lunch runs $6–11, dinner $10–32. Across the street, R.C. Otters Island Eats (239-395-1142), owned by the same folks, is a fun and colorful restaurant with an extensive vegetarian menu and a kid’s menu. They serve steamer pots, cold strawberry bisque, and lobster rolls, so the menu is not one to miss. Open daily for all meals.
I’ve strolled down the beach more than once to The Mucky Duck (239-472-3434; www.muckyduck.com), 11546 Andy Rosse Ln., for fish-and-chips, and that’s why this British pub is a favorite around here: It has great views of the Gulf and reliable grub. Chow down on oyster po’boy or duck fingers, or try meat loaf à la Jaybird, a specialty of the house. Lunch $5–15, dinner $18–38.
From the outside, the building is clearly a renovated Long John Silver’s. But the inside sparkles with bright walls, piñatas, and colorful pastel Mexican festival flags strung from the rafters. Boasting “Authentic Mexican Cuisine,” La Casita (239-415-1050), 15185 McGregor Blvd., delivers with a menu that is anything but Tex-Mex. The owners hail from the Guanajato region of Mexico, where sautéed onions and peppers accompany roasted tomatoes and cilantro in freshly prepared enchiladas, chimichangas, tacos, and gorditas. Besides shredded beef or chicken, you can enjoy a mildly spicy potato filling. Platters come with soft, fresh Mexican rice and red beans. Enjoy house margaritas and a wide variety of Mexican and domestic beers. Platters $9 and up; thick homemade chips and a zesty cilantro salsa are provided as you peruse the menu.
Under the distinctive downtown Arcade marquee, April’s Eatery (239-337-4004), 2269 First St., serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday to downtown workers and visitors. Choose from hot sandwiches, 8-inch subs, or cold sandwiches such as crab, dill, and shrimp salad. Morning choices include bagel sandwiches, toast, and muffins.
For lunch and dinner, Delicious Things (239-332-7797; www.delicious-things.com), 2262 First St., offers a taste of Italy with a twist. Entrée salads can come with ahi tuna, salmon, jumbo shrimp, and more and are made with fine mixed greens. While the lunch menu ($5–9) has many Italian favorites, such as panini, pastas, Pellegrino, and Lavazza coffee, it includes homemade wiener schnitzel with potato salad and a “DownTown Doener” comprised of homemade pita bread with red cabbage, mixed greens, onions, and a Turkish herb or garlic sauce. Dinners ($16–30) are elaborate presentations of fine cuisine, including fresh gnocchi stuffed with asiago cheese with fresh vegetables, manicotti, and filet mignon roasted with fresh thyme.
I was very impressed by the ribs at the Rib City Grill (239-693-2223; www.ribcity.com), 13908 Palm Beach Blvd., which is a regional chain but darn good. Combo dinners “from the pit” cost under $15, and there are five types of salad on the menu, including crunchy grouper. I love the three-cheese fries, smothered in Monterey, cheddar, and pepper Jack with bacon. The coleslaw and baked beans are homemade, and desserts, such as the Chocolate Mousse Mania, just can’t be passed up.
Haunted by the ghosts of Jim and Mary Galloway, whose Mermaid Club was burned by an arsonist in 1955, The Beached Whale (941-463-5505; www.thebeachedwhale.com), 1249 Estero Blvd., is a party-goers spot thanks to their rooftop bar, the Lookout Lounge, and a popular choice for its Whalewiches (no whales—think pulled pork, grouper, and other favorites), served with beans and rice, buttered parsley potatoes or fries, and their house coleslaw. Lunches $9–11, dinners $16–18.
After a day where I managed to squeeze in three hikes while visiting dozens of other locations—and no lunch—I was famished by the time I got to Jojo’s at the Beach at the Pink Shell Resort (see Hotels, Motels, and Resorts). It was pouring rain, and the seating is open-air, but thank goodness for the roof and roll-down windows. This casual restaurant overlooks the Gulf and specializes in Floribbean cuisine. Their crab fettuccine hit the spot, but other entrées ($16–29) tempted, too, including the center cut filet mignon. Feeling in a tropical mood, I savored a piña colada from Bongo’s Bar & Grill for good measure. Jojo’s serves lunch 11 AM–5 PM, dinner 5 PM–9 PM.
Dine beachfront at Junkanoo on the Beach (239-463-6139), 3040 Estero Blvd., where they fling open the sliding glass doors so you can enjoy the salty breeze while munching on a grilled portabello mushroom sandwich or the tasty shrimp and crab salad. Lunches $7–12, dinners $11 and up; it’s a hangout for drinks and live music at night.
Enjoy homespun goodness at the Split Rail Family Restaurant (239-466-3400), 17943 San Carlos, where breakfast sides include fresh hot apples or grits (my favorites!) among many other choices. The atmosphere was pure country comfort, and although I was worried about getting to an appointment, I shouldn’t have—the meal arrived in less than five minutes. I topped my pancakes off with real Wisconsin Gold sweet butter. Breakfast served 6 AM–2 PM, $4–8, including a variety of three-egg omelets and griddle favorites; they serve lunch and dinner, too.
Always busy at dinnertime, the Matlacha Oyster House (239-283-2544), 3930 Pine Island Rd., has a 1970s nautical look about it and keeps regulars coming back with fresh local shrimp and oysters, baked stuffed flounder, and other specialties, $10 and up.
Enjoy Italian specialties along the mangrove-lined estuary at Moretti’s Seafood Restaurant (239-283-5825), 4200 Pine Island Rd., a family-owned restaurant with classic seafood pastas, pizza, grilled beef, veal, and chicken, entrées $10 and up.
A bustling breakfast stop, Mulletville (239-283-5151), 4597 Pine Island Rd., has good Southern classics on the menu, from grits to mullet, and features a mullet, shrimp, and Swiss omelet you just can’t miss.
Offering a great view of the islands, the Sandy Hook Fish & Rib House (239-283-0113; www.sandyhookfishandribhouse.com), 4875 Pine Island Rd., serves up seafood classics in a comfortable family atmosphere. The “Sandy Hook Treasures” include more than a dozen seafood choices, from cracked conch to steamed crab legs and Florida lobster, $12 and up.
For casual waterfront dining, Pincher’s Crab Shack (239-652-1313; www.pincherscrabshack.com), 13021 N Cleveland Ave. at the Best Western, is a fun and affordable choice with a great selection of seafood; the crab and corn chowder is spicy and downright addictive. If you order crab, you’ll be pounding it with mallets on a brown paper–covered table; your fresh veggies and corn come served with real butter. Dinners start at $10; there are two additional locations in town.
Gaily painted roosters and chickens set the tone at Amy’s Over Easy Café (239-472-2625), 630 Tarpon Bay Rd., where your view is of the tropical forest outside, and the extensive breakfast menu includes Gulf shrimp omelets, Reuben Benedict, and stuffed French toast; open for breakfast and lunch daily.
The fun place to eat on Sanibel is The Island Cow (239-472-0606; www.sanibelislandcow.com), 2163 Periwinkle Way, with a dining area that spills out of a historic home and onto the front porch, where you can dine perched on pastel chairs while watching the world walk by. They serve amazing home-cooked breakfasts (Crab cakes and grits! Stuffed French toast!), grilled goodies, greens, quesadillas, wraps, barbecue, steaks . . . the list goes on and on and includes a kid’s menu, too. Don’t miss the treats, too—ice cream floats (such as Purple Cows and egg creams), pies, and cakes. Breakfast starts at $4, entrées at $11.
The Lighthouse Café (239-472-0303; www.lighthousecafe.com), 362 Periwinkle Way, claims bragging rights for the “world’s best breakfast,” and the way folks were lined up for it, I’d believe it. Inside the brightly painted café, try exquisite specialties such as seafood Benedict—a grilled croissant topped with sautéed shrimp, crabmeat, and scallops with broccoli, mushrooms, two poached eggs, and fresh Alfredo sauce. Breakfast all day ($3–11); lunch served 11 AM–3 PM.
Breakfast is big at Jackie’s Family Restaurant (239-283-4225), 3002 Stringfellow Rd., where their specials include a Fisherman’s breakfast with fresh Pine Island mullet (when available), country fried steak, and a hearty helping of eggs, grits or potatoes, and toast, biscuit, or two small pancakes. They have biscuits and gravy, too. Here’s where to fuel up (breakfast $3–9) before your outdoor adventure! Open Mon.–Fri. 8 AM–9 PM, Sat.–Sun. 8 AM–1 PM for breakfast only.
The Boca Grande Baking Company (941-964-5818; bocagrandebakingco.com), 384 E Railroad Ave., features hearth-baked breads, fresh pastries, muffins, and scones, and a full-service coffee bar with your favorite coffee drinks.
On a hot day, you’ll want to have some cool ice cream treats ($4–6) at the Pink Pony next to historic Hudson’s Grocery on Park Avenue, where if you catch them while the lunch counter’s open, they’ll make burgers and dogs, too. Located just across Park Avenue and the bike trail, the Loose Caboose (see Eating Out) dishes out ice cream, too.
The place to grab baked goodies downtown is Mason’s Bakery (239-334-4525; www.masonsbakery.com), 1615 Hendry Ave., where they make political cookies (yep, that’s right!) and cakes and cookies with photos on them, along with muffins and pastries and other tasty treats; closed Sun.–Mon.
I stopped in for ice cream at Strawberrie Corner (941-463-1155), 7205 Estero Blvd., and discovered they offer a pretty complete array of sandwiches for lunch ($5 and up) in addition to sundaes, malts, cones, and, of course, strawberry shortcake.
Selective ShoppingBoca Grande Outfitters (941-964-2445; www.bocagrandeoutfitters.com), 375 Park Ave., carries “Life is Good” T-shirts and hats, a good selection of books on fishing, and sportswear. You can also pick up a pooper-scooper for your dog, a smart move if you’re walking him to tiny Sam Murphy Park along the block, a tropical oasis in the shade of coconut palms.
Ruhama’s Books in the Sand (941-964-5800), 333 Park Ave., is a great little independent bookstore with an emphasis on nautical books and local authors. They also carry art supplies, including sketch pads and watercolor paints.
Packed with a good mix of collectibles and decor items, The Motherload (239-948-1177), 27796 Old US 41 Rd., has everything from Gilbert & Sullivan LPs and an original Battleship game to an Esther Williams swimming instruction book.
Perk up your taste buds with a stop at the Captiva Provision Company (239-472-5111), 5400 Plantation Rd. It’s a lovely gourmet grocery with fine artisan cheeses, a wine bar, fresh sandwiches, and deli items, and if you’re staying at South Seas Island Resort (see Hotels, Motels and Resorts) they’ll deliver right to your room.
Anchored by Dillards, Target, and Muvico Theaters, Coconut Point (239-992-4259; www.simon.com) is a massive outdoor mall along US 41 between Corkscrew Rd. and Coconut Pt., with most of the major chains represented, including some tough-to-find ones like the Apple Store and Trek Bicycles. There is a playground, fire pit, and a turtle pond, plus accommodations for your pet. Shuttles run throughout the property.
There’s plenty to purchase at Flamingo Island (941-948-7799; www.flamingoisland.com), 200 yards west of I-75 on Bonita Springs Blvd., with more than six hundred dealer booths in a tropical setting. You can also pick up fresh fruits and veggies here. Fri.–Sun. 8 AM–4 PM.
Get lost amid hundreds of booths at Flea Masters Giant Flea Market (941-334-7001; www.fleamall.com), on FL 82, 1 mile west of I-75, where I stumbled across beautiful Balinese hand-carved cabinets for reasonable prices, fresh seafood and produce, and the usual booth after booth of cheap Asian goods.
A new mall complex off I-75 at Alico Road, Gulf Coast Town Center (239-267-0783; www.gulfcoasttowncenter.com), 10012 Gulf Center Dr., attracts an outdoorsy crowd with its massive Bass Pro Shops (239-461-7800; www.bassproshops.com), which pays homage to the Everglades.
Right near Punta Rassa and the Sanibel Causeway, the Tanger Factory Outlet (239-454-1974; www.tangeroutlet.com), 20350 Summerlin Rd., contains factory outlet stores for popular top-name brands like Lane Bryant, Samsonite, and Rack Room Shoes, plus a few eateries.
In addition to the usual antiques store inventory, Main Street Antiques & Collectibles (239-689-6246), 2229 Main St., contains the contents of the old Flowers to 50s Vintage Department Store, which makes this a retro trip into your parent’s 1970s basement—a delightful clutter of tree lamps, avocado easy chairs, and a paint-by-number-on-velvet Last Supper. Featuring goodies from the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s, the constantly changing inventory runs the gamut from psychedelic-patterned dresses and vintage Hawaiian shirts to Ronco appliances (“as seen on TV”) still in the box since 1972. Poke through the shelves to find Viewmaster slides, 8 mm cartoon films, and other fun toys and books from your childhood. Note to album collectors—don’t miss this selection!
In the McGregor Boulevard Antique District, a handful of great shops are clustered near the College Parkway overpass. At the McGregor Antique Mall (239-433-0200), 12720 McGregor Blvd., browse collectibles such as political buttons and dolls, regional and national postcards, and salt cellars, as well as a fine collection of glassware and dishes. Poke through vintage purses at Judy’s Antiques (239-481-9600), 12710 McGregor Blvd., where you’ll find fine silver and glassware. George Brown Antiques (239-482-5101), 12730 McGregor Blvd, features tableware, fine furnishings, and estate jewelry.
Island Décor and More (239-283-8080; island-decorandmore.com), 4206 Pine Island Rd., is one of the largest gift shops in the area, and the prices are great. Pick up decor items with a nautical flair, select seashells, and browse through the books.
Sure, it’s kitschy, with row upon row of alligator heads, shark jaws, and coconut monkeys. But nowhere else on earth other than The Shell Factory (1-888-474-3557), 2787 N Tamiami Trail, will you find a finer collection of seashells under one roof. From its humble beginnings in 1942 as a shell shop, the Shell Factory has ballooned to a sprawling megacomplex, with family entertainment (see Family Activities), adult entertainment (karaoke at Captain Fishbones bar), and a virtual department store of gifts beyond the thousands of seashells and corals for purchase. Browse for fossils, Christmas ornaments, touristy T-shirts, and fudge, too.
The Islander Trading Post (239-395-0888; www.islandertradingpost.biz) is an antiques shop with well-organized collections of collections, from vintage drugstore items to ashtrays, Florida postcards and matchbooks, and even milk bottles.
The oldest bookstore on Sanibel Island is MacIntosh Books and Paper (239-472-1447; www.macintoshbooks.com), 2365 Periwinkle Way, a historic beach cottage with a nice selection of new fiction, a local-interest section, a goodly number of nature and children’s books, and a back room filled with used books.
Jazz drifts through the Sanibel Island Bookshop (239-472-5223; www.sanibelbookshop.com), 1711 Periwinkle Way, where you can merge your right and left brain by browsing through both Sark’s books and Ann Coulter. The store carries new books and has an extensive children’s section, tasteful gifts and plush toys, and greeting cards.
Ritchey’s Farm Fresh Produce (239-693-5092), 15500 Palm Beach Blvd., is a don’t-miss family fruit stand along SR 80 with everything you can think of, from homemade jellies and jams to Hendry County citrus and Immokalee tomatoes; cash only.
Wednesday farmer’s markets in Bonita Springs bring fresh produce in from the country. Stop by Riverside Park, 27300 Old 41 Rd., to sample the wares. Nov.–Apr., 7 AM–1 PM.
There is nothing like the smell of Florida oranges being processed, and you’ll pick up that scent as you step out of your car at Sun Harvest Citrus (239-768-2686; www.sunharvestcitrus.com), 14810 Metro Pkwy. Since 1940, this big green packinghouse has been the place to get the pick of the citrus crop for this region. Step inside and grab a supermarket cart to load up on fresh citrus, citrus-inspired sweets like key lime thimble cookies and candied orange slices, homemade fudge, and citrus dressings, jams, and jellies. Sip your own sample of juice while you peek through the big picture windows to watch the packing and juicing operation. They ship gift fruits, of course, but the one thing you shouldn’t miss is the orange and vanilla swirl soft-serve ice cream at the deli counter! Open daily Mon.–Sat. 8 AM–9 PM, Sun. 10–6.
Farmers bring their produce into town for a true Green Market—only agricultural products that can be eaten or grown allowed—at the Downtown Fort Myers Farmers Market (239-332-6813), under the US 41 Caloosahatchee River Bridge in Centennial Park, at the corner of Heitman and First Streets. The market runs year-round from 7 AM–2 PM in Nov.–Apr. and 7 AM–1 PM May–Oct.
Every Friday 7 AM until noon November through April, peek under the Sky Bridge for the Fort Myers Beach Farmer’s Market for booths and booths of fresh produce, seafood, cut flowers, houseplants, and baked goods. Parking is free during market hours.
The finest tropical produce from Pine Island’s groves fills Tropicaya Fruit & Gift (239-283-0656; www.tropicaya.com), 3220 SW Pine Island Rd., where you can browse alligator brushes and hot sauces while waiting for your smoothie or juice. Nab a carambola (star fruit) or two to take home!
EntertainmentFINE ARTS For an evening of fine music, check with the box office for the Southwest Florida Symphony Orchestra (239-418-1500; www.swflso.org), the only professional orchestra in the region. Playing both classical and popular music, they perform at both the Barbara B. Mann Performing Arts Hall (239-481-4849; www.bbmannpah.com), 8099 College Pkwy. SW, Fort Myers, and at BIG Arts (239-395-0900; www.bigarts.org), 900 Dunlop Rd., Sanibel Island.
In the 12,000-square-foot William R. Frizzel Cultural Center, the Alliance for the Arts (239-939-ARTS; www.artinlee.org), 11091 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers, has public galleries with monthly exhibitions, theatrical productions, and art workshops.
THEATER At Broadway Palm Dinner Theatre (239-278-4422; www.broadwaypalm.com), 1380 Colonial Blvd., Fort Myers, the buffet almost upstages the show at this regional theater—but not quite. Featuring professional performers, it hosts musicals and comedies year-round, with ticket prices starting at $25 for show only; reserve in advance.
Special EventsFebruary: For two days, downtown immerses in the arts during Artfest Fort Myers (239-768-3602; www.artfestfortmyers.com), bringing in more than 200 major artists from around the country and drawing on the talents of budding artists as well.
Brighten up at the Edison Festival of Light (239-334-2999; www.edisonfestival.org), midmonth, Fort Myers. Commemorating Thomas Edison’s birthday, a lively lit-up parade kicks off this celebration of light and history, which includes a downtown block party, orchid show, huge arts and crafts fair, and the nation’s largest after-dark parade.
The Lee County Fair (239-543-8368; www.leeciviccenter.com) celebrates the agricultural bounty of the county, from fishing to veggies and ranching, with good old-fashioned family fun.
March: Sanibel Shell Fair (239-472-2155), 2173 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel Island. More than four hundred species of shells wash up on Sanibel’s shores, and collectors enjoy showing off their prizes at this annual gathering that started back in 1937, hosted by the Sanibel-Captiva Shell Club. Donation.
April: Film buffs will love the Fort Myers Beach Film Festival (239-765-0202; www.fmbfilmfest.com), last week of the month, with screenings, filmmaker panel discussions, and workshops as well as an elegant celebrity gala and screenings at the Fort Myers Beach Theatre. Free.
July: Mangos are a serious cash crop on Pine Island, so the Pine Island Mango Mania Tropical Fruit Fair (239-283-0888; www.floridascreativecoast.com/MM-home.html), mid-month, showcases these and other luscious tropical fruits during a weekend celebration at the German-American Social Club on Pine Island Rd. Fee.
October: Launched in 2005, the Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival (239-433-3855; www.calusabluewaypaddlingfestival.com), is a weeklong event that gets you out on the water, exploring both the freshwater rivers and the mangrove-lined coastline of Lee County, with activities held everywhere from Alva to Bonita Springs.
Be one with the birds during Ding Darling Days (239-472-1100; www.dingdarlingdays.com), a weeklong birding and ecoheritage festival at the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge (see Wild Places).
November: American Sandsculpting Championship Festival (239-454-7500; www.sandsculptingfestival.com), Fort Myers Beach. Try building the ultimate sand castle on the beach, where amateurs and pros compete for prize money while showing off their sand artistry. Free.
December: Celebrate the season in honor of the man without whom we’d be without Christmas lights at Holiday House, a special electrified tribute at the Edison & Ford Winter Estates (see Historic Sites). Local musicians play each evening.
