To SeeA crucial chapter of Florida’s frontier history played out along the Peace River. As the northernmost border of the Seminole Territory, Arcadia, established in 1886, quickly earned a reputation as the rowdiest city in Florida, a frontier outpost where shootouts between cattle ranchers and cattle rustlers happened as a matter of course. The arrival of the Florida Southern Railroad through town created an economic boom that led to a thriving downtown through the 1920s. Lined with architectural marvels, the 58-block historic district has more than 370 buildings and homes on the National Register of Historic Places. Downtown is one of Florida’s top destinations for antiques shoppers, where you can easily spend a day or two browsing the shops. While rustlers are no longer the problem they were, ranching and other agricultural interests remain the heart of DeSoto County’s economy, with Ben Hill Griffin and more than a dozen other ranchers holding hundreds of thousands of acres in the region.
Farther north on the Peace River, Wauchula, Seminole for “cry of the sandhill crane,” is the county seat of Hardee County, and Zolfo Springs was an important crossroads for cattle drovers moving herds from interior ranchlands to the coast. Bowling Green started as a trading post that marked the northern extent of Seminole lands.
GUIDANCE Florida’s Freshwater Frontier (1-800-467-4540; www.floridafreshwaterfrontier.com), P.O. Box 1196, Sebring, 33871-1196 brings together tourism information for all of the counties and small communities in this rural region. The DeSoto County Chamber of Commerce (863-494-4033; www.desotochamber.net), 16 S Volusia Ave., Arcadia, and downtown merchants association have a small visitors center adjacent to a public park near the railroad depot. Hardee County Chamber of Commerce (863-773-6967; www.hardeecc.com), 401 N 6th Ave. Ste. A, Wauchula, offers information on this rural county’s attractions.
GETTING THERE By car: US 17 links together the cities of this region, which sit 20 to 30 miles east of I-75. At least four exits along the interstate lead to Arcadia, so you won’t miss it!
By air: Sarasota Bradenton International Airport (see Sarasota and Her Islands) is the nearest major airport.
GETTING AROUND A car is essential for getting around in this region.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES For emergencies, visit DeSoto Memorial Hospital (863-494-8401; www.dmh.org), 888 N Robert Ave., Arcadia, or Florida Hospital Wauchula (863-773-3101; www.fhhd.org), 533 West Carlton St., Wauchula, at the corner of Florida Avenue.
PUBLIC RESTROOMS In Arcadia, you’ll find them at the edge of the antiques district at the corner of DeSoto and Oak, behind the pavilion at Oak Park.
PUBLIC PARKING You’ll find free street parking and surface lots in Arcadia, and some free and metered street parking in Wauchula near the restaurants.
To SeeFor evocative paintings of Florida landscapes and wildlife, stop in at Debra Hollingsworth Galleries (863-990-2800; www.debrahollingsworthgalleries.com), 4481 NE Cubitis Ave. (US 17). A fifth-generation Florida native, Debra reveals the soul of the land through her art.
At Solomon’s Castle (see Attractions), playful art is everywhere—in the construction of the buildings, in the quirky galleries inside the castle, on the grounds, and in The Alamo, Howard Solomon’s latest creation, where some of his work is for sale, such as “pet blocks” and bar cars. Just ask!
HISTORIC SITES
With a 58-block historic district, there are many architectural marvels to explore on foot in downtown Arcadia, including the original 1883 Post Office and the Old Opera House. Stop in at Wheeler’s Cafe (see Eating Out) to peruse photos and clippings that help interpret the town’s long history.
At Paynes Creek Historic State Park (see Parks), a significant chapter in Florida history unfolded in 1849 when the federal government built a trading post on the northern boundary of the Seminole Reservation on a creek that marked the land boundary. Several months after the trading post opened, on July 17, 1849, five Seminoles—one of whom was outlawed by his tribe—opened fire on the trading post. Captain George S. Payne, Dempsey Whiddon, and William McCullough were shot, and Payne and Whiddon died. Despite attempts by the tribes to appease the U.S. government, the incident sparked immediate conflict. With ground broken in October 1849, Fort Chokonikla was the first fort built, and the nearby creek was named for the captain killed at the trading post. Remains of the fort and a memorial to the fallen soldiers are an integral part of this park.
Wauchula’s historic downtown district is primarily made up of commercial buildings and the old City Hall across from The Quilter’s Inn (see Lodging).
ARCADIA’S OLD OPERA HOUSE
Sandra Friend
MUSEUMS At Pioneer Park (see Parks), the Cracker Trail Museum (863-735-0119), 2822 Museum Dr., Zolfo Springs, showcases elements of the region’s long history, from prehistoric bones found in the Peace River to an adze used to kill a Florida panther that attacked a pioneer’s child back in the early 1800s. Artifacts in the museum and adjacent barn bring to life pioneer hardships during the post-statehood settlement of Florida—walk through an actual pioneer cabin and poke around the blacksmith shop. Open 9 AM–5:30 PM Tues.–Sat. Donations appreciated.
RAILROADIANA Historic railroad depots sit in both downtown Arcadia and Wauchula, and you’ll find a 1914 Baldwin steam engine (Engine #3) at the front corner of Pioneer Park (see Parks) in front of the Cracker Trail Museum (see Museums). It was used during the heyday of cypress logging along the Peace River Valley.
RODEO The All-Florida Championship Rodeo (1-800-749-7633; www.arcadiarodeo.com), Arcadia, started in 1929 and is the state’s oldest rodeo association in the middle of cattle country. Where better to watch the cowmen at play? Competitive events include bull riding, bareback riding, barrel racing, saddle bronc, steer wrestling, and tie-down roping. See a frontier shootout, and watch the quadrille—best described as “square dancing on horseback.” Performances begin 2 PM each day of the event. Tickets are available in advance or at the box office after 11 AM. The rodeo, a nonprofit event that benefits the region, is presented in mid-March, with additional events held at the stadium throughout the year (see Special Events).
WILDLIFE REHAB A sanctuary for injured and orphaned wildlife, the Hardee County Animal Refuge (863 735-9531; www.hardeecounty.net), 650 Animal Way, can be found along the Peace River in the northwest corner of Pioneer Park (see Parks), Zolfo Springs. Visitors walk an elevated boardwalk to view the permanent refuge residents in a natural river hammock habitat. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues. and Thurs.–Sun. Fee.
Sandra Friend
ATTRACTIONS
ONA
You have to see it to believe it—Solomon’s Castle (863-494-6077; www.solomonscastle.com), 4533 Solomon Rd., isn’t just a rambling medieval pastiche complete with a replica of a 17th-century Spanish galleon, it’s a collection of galleries and the home of sculptor Howard Solomon and his family. Set along the splendor of Horse Creek, a tributary of the Peace River, this unique little kingdom has a lot to explore. Walking in on the yellow brick road, you’ll see sculptures that will have you cracking a smile. Solomon’s creativity with “discarded stuff” dates back to the original ecoconscious era—he’s been creating comic sculptures on this property since 1970—and he’s entirely self-taught. It’s the ultimate in recycled art. Oil drums, brake shoes, beer cans, turntables, pistons, cams, and universal joints become fantastical creatures and figurines, like the egg-eating gargoyle, the iron butterfly, and “Evil Kornevil.” The tour through the castle and around the grounds is a hoot, filled with puns and silliness, a walk through a series of galleries showcasing this detailed and unusual art plus a peek into the dungeon and a stroll through their home. Its incredible woodworking, including a massive three-sided door, speaks to Solomon’s background as a cabinetmaker. More than 90 stained-glass windows decorate the castle. The tour continues through the Boat in the Moat (see Eating Out), yet another massive work of art, to the workshops where Howard Solomon does his welding and creates his whimsical world. Adjoining the restaurant is the Treetop Gift Shop, topped with a lighthouse and full of cute figurines, mini teapots, garden flags, urns—cute garden decor. If you call ahead, you can stay here, too, in the Blue Moon Room (see Bed & Breakfasts) inside the castle. The nature trail along Horse Creek leads beneath ancient oaks and returns to the grounds via a drawbridge over the moat. Open 11–4 except Mon.; closed July–Sept. I highly recommend the tour: adults $10, children under 12 $4, cash only; admission to the grounds and nature trail are free.
WHIMSICAL SCULPTURES SURROUND SOLOMON’S CASTLE
Sandra Friend
Animals of a different stripe roam the enclosures at Peace River Refuge & Ranch (863-735-0804; www.peaceriverrefuge.org), 2545 Stoner Ln., Zolfo Springs. Here, abandoned exotics are cared for, from African servals to tigers and lynx; you’ll find black bears and other large native mammals as well. The sanctuary is not open to the public, but you can request a tour, either by phone or through their Web site. Donations appreciated.
To DoBIRDING Watch for red-cockaded woodpeckers in the longleaf pine forests of Deep Creek Preserve (see Wild Places), and for wading birds along the shoreline of the Peace River and Paynes Creek at Paynes Creek Historic State Park (see Parks). I saw several osprey nests while walking along the river at Pioneer Park (see Parks).
BOATING DeSoto Marina is part of the complex at the Nav-A-Gator Grill (see Eating Out) in Lake Suzy, offering dockage for cruisers coming up the Peace River; no live-aboards. Services include groceries, ice, bait, tackle, boat parts and supplies, the restaurant, cottages for rent, and kayak rentals. You can also charter a boat and captain; call for details.
DIVING DeSoto Divers (863-990-7425; www.desotodivers.cc), P.O. Box 1374, Arcadia 34265, offers courses from junior scuba through dive master as well as first aid and CPR.
ECOTOURS See the wild shorelines of the Peace River on Nav-A-Gator Riverboat Tours (1-800-308-7506; www.nav-a-gator.com), 9700 SW Riverview Cir., Lake Suzy, where you’re virtually guaranteed to spot osprey, alligators, and wood storks. Pontoon boat trips (lunch included) depart from the dock behind the Nav-A-Gator Grill; reservations required. Explore the river like early Florida pioneers in a replica cargo canoe with an interpretive guide; trips vary in length from an hour to a day.
FISHING A reclaimed phosphate mine is now home to Hardee Lakes Park Fish Management Area (http://myfwc.com/fishing/pdf/HardeeBrochure6.pdf), north of SR 62 on CR 663 and then west on Ollie Roberts Rd., Fort Green. Four lakes with irregular bottoms are stocked with bluegill, red-ear sunfish, black crappie, and largemouth bass. The Peace River is the major waterway through the region, and fishing is best from your canoe (see Paddling) or from any of the riverside parks when the water is low or near deep holes caused by snags. Largemouth bass, bream, and catfish are common, and snook have been caught as far north as Fort Meade.
FOSSIL HUNTING 
In the summer, the Peace River dries up, exposing countless fossils of prehistoric creatures buried in the creek beds. Bring a trowel or mattock to poke around for large shark’s teeth, mammoth molars, and more. However, Florida archaeological laws prohibit the removal of prehistoric bones or Native American artifacts, so be selective!
GOLF With 27 holes (18 championship, 9 par 3), Sunnybreeze Golf Course (1-888-663-2420; www.sunnybreezegolf.com), 8135 SW Sunnybreeze Rd., off US 17 south of Fort Ogden, provides a challenge for golfers of all experience levels, with greens fees starting at $20. A fully covered driving range and pro shop round out the facility.
HIKING Don’t miss the Horse Creek Nature Trail at Solomon’s Castle (see Attractions) for an easy walk beneath ancient oaks and along a weaving, winding tributary of the Peace River. At Brownsville Park (see Parks) a short nature trail leads you through bottomlands along the Peace River. For a hike that combines history and scenery, head to Paynes Creek Historic State Park (see Parks) to walk a 2.9-mile circuit along Paynes Creek and the Peace River, with stops at the site of a frontier fort and trading post. For lengthier walks, see Wild Spaces.
PADDLING Starting at the Fort Meade Outdoor Recreation Area, north of Bowling Green, the 67-mile Peace River Canoe Trail provides a serene multiday journey down a slow-moving tannic river with sand bluffs, floodplain forests, and dense pine forests. Contact the Canoe Outpost for shuttles; the state Office of Greenways and Trails (850-245-2052 or 1-877-822-5208; www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt) can provide specific details and a map of the route. Check in with Becky or Trent at Canoe Outpost–Peace River (1-800-268-0083; www.canoeoutpost.com) to arrange a one- or two-day float down this majestic wilderness waterway, where towering cypresses and moss-draped live oaks line the shores. In addition to owning a large piece of riverfront property open to overnight camping, Canoe Outpost has two locations—upriver at Gardner, 855 River Rd., or downriver at Arcadia, 2816 NW CR 661. Now in their third generation of river rats running the show, these are Floridians you can trust to show off one of the state’s most beautiful rivers. Guided trips available, or simply rent and arrange a drop-off or pickup.
DeSoto Marina at the Nav-A-Gator Grill (see Eating Out) offers canoe and kayak rentals. Head out on the river and explore, but return to dock by 4:30 PM. Guided trips available.
SCENIC DRIVES Follow the Peace River along US 17, a scenic highway that leads you up the entire Peace River Valley from Punta Gorda (its southern terminus) north through Arcadia, Zolfo Springs, Wauchula, and Bowling Green. Between the towns, you’ll enjoy the pastoral cattle-ranch scenery. Perhaps one of the most gorgeous drives in South Florida, SR 66 east from Zolfo Springs to Lake Placid, part of the Florida Cracker Trail Scenic Highway, traverses wide open prairies with massive ranches and haunting stands of cypress.
Green SpaceBrownville Park (863-491-5333), 1885 NE Brownville St., is a delightful Old Florida getaway north of town along the Peace River. Here, the forest is lush bottomland of hickory, sweet gum, and cypress, with a nature trail and canoe launch to let you take in the beauty of the river, and a campground (see Campgrounds) that makes a perfect base camp for fossil hunters. Free.
In an oxbow bend of the Peace River along SR 70 west of downtown, Desoto Park provides a quiet place to have a picnic or launch your canoe. Free.
Protecting the confluence of the Peace River and Paynes Creek as well as an important historic site from the Second Seminole War, Paynes Creek Historic State Park (863-375-4717; www.floridastateparks.org/paynescreek), 888 Lake Branch Rd., has several miles of pleasant hiking trails, a large picnic area with playground, and canoe launch to reach the Peace River. A visitors center (open 9 AM–5 PM daily) interprets the significance of this site as it relates to the Seminole Wars. Fee.
An expansive green space along the upper Peace River, Pioneer Park (863-735-0330), at the corner of US 17 and FL 64, has riverside picnic tables; a playground; a pleasant, shady campground (see Campgrounds); and a village of historic buildings surrounding the Cracker Trail Museum (see Museums). This is the regional venue for large outdoor events, and you can expect to find a flea market going on here most weekends. In March, crowds gather for Pioneer Park Days (see Special Events) to celebrate the region’s past. Free.
WILD PLACES A place for a quiet hike, Deep Creek Preserve (941-475-0769; www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/recreation/areas/deepcreek.html), just off King’s Highway in Lake Suzy on the way to the Nav-A-Gator Grill (see Eating Out), protects more than 2,000 acres along the Peace River and its tributaries. Nine miles of multiuse forest roads wind through the preserve to provide a network of trails.
Nearby, R.V. Griffin Reserve (1-800-423-1476; www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/recreation/areas/rvgriffin.html), CR 769 N, was saved from becoming a “planned community” in the early 1990s. This wilderness area encompasses 374 acres of pine flatwoods, prairies, and marshes, with 22 miles of multiuse trails. A 303-acre reservoir on the property exists to hold water for regional use during the months when the Peace River dries up.
Lodging
Built in the late 1890s by Jasper Newton Parker, one of Florida’s first cattle barons, the Historic Parker House (863-494-1060 or 1-800-969-2499; www.historicparkerhouse.com), 427 W Hickory St., is a true Florida treasure. Each of the Victorian rooms are immense, and owners Kay and Leonard Higley showcase the period with elegant furnishings and beautiful quilts. Enjoy a large screened veranda and the formal living room in addition to your own room or suite ($95); breakfast includes fresh fruits and freshly baked muffins and pastries as well as tasty breakfast entrées.
Stare at the stars from your perch atop the ramparts at the Blue Moon Room (www.solomonscastle.com/bmr.htm), an efficiency apartment within Solomon’s Castle (see Attractions); it’s a work of art, with gorgeous stained-glass doors and hand-painted scenes on the closet doors, $99. Closed July–-Sept. and on Mon.
If you’re an obsessive quilter like some of my friends, then your next destination should be The Quilter’s Inn (863-767-8989 or 1-877-664-8989; www.thequiltersinn.com), 106 S Fourth Ave. Inside this 1925 bungalow, proprietor Pattie Detwiler, an avid quilter, displays her handiwork in all five guest rooms ($99–129). Each room features welcoming decor and is uniquely appointed with period antiques. The comfortable rooms are a favorite for business travelers as well. Guests enjoy breakfasts in the in-house Patchwork Café, which is available for tea parties and other special functions.
At Brownville Park (see Parks), campers will appreciate the 24-space campground within this county park along the Peace River, as it is set on the high ground beneath ancient live oaks. There are spaces for tents ($20) and RVs ($25), electric and water included; primitive campsites are $15. Bathhouse and dump station on-site. Reservations suggested.
Bluegrass reigns supreme at Craig’s RV Park (863-494-1820; www.craigsrv.com), 7895 NE US 17, a gathering place for campers who like a little pick-in’ and grinnin’. Home of the Blue-grass Family Gathering and the Gold Wing Express Arcadia Blue-grass Festival (see Special Events), it’s also a pleasant, sunny, family-owned campground with daily rates of $35, monthly $600. The back section of the park is where the music happens.
A favorite with snowbirds, Little Willies RV Resort (863-494-2717 or 1-800-222-7675; www.littlewilliesrvresort.com), 5905 NE Cubitis Ave. (Old US 17), offers sunny grassy sites, full hookups, a clubhouse with scheduled activities, and a massive swimming pool. Open to RV and trailers only, $39, with discounts for members of motorcoach clubs.
Families flock to the Peace River Campground (863-494-9693 or 1-800-559-4011; www.peacerivercampground.com), 2998 NW SR 70, which was set under a shady canopy of live oaks until Hurricane Charley came along. It’ll take a while for the trees to fully recover, but they’re growing in—and the throngs who love this campground, especially tent campers, are increasing. It’s no wonder, with all the activities they have available, including fossil hunts, a playground and game room, fishing and hiking, canoe rentals, and even Segway rentals. Primitive campers have 100 acres of wilderness to roam, where primitive sites are $15 for ages 12 and up. Full hookup sites are $52, tent sites with water and electric, $46.
With frontage right on the Peace River, the Riverside RV Resort & Campground (863-993-2111 or 1-800-795-9733; www.riversidervresort.com), 9770 SW CR 769, is a very appealing destination for snowbirds and weekenders alike. Choose from shady or sunny sites, kick back at the pool and relax in the hot tub, or fish from the docks. There is boat trailer parking available and a boat ramp to slip your craft into the river. In-season daily rates for full hookup run $43–52; tent sites available Apr. 1–Sept. 30 for $41.
Camp amid history at Pioneer Park (see Parks), where the cypresses and palms that shade your space watched as Seminoles camped here long ago. Most of the campsites overlook the wild beauty of the Peace River. Rates $7 without electric, $11 with electric; includes bathhouse with showers. Pets permitted, but they must be leashed.
PIONEER PARK CAMPGROUND ALONG THE PEACE RIVER
Sandra Friend
A renovation of the landmark D. T. Carlton Building has resulted in the snazziest accommodations to open in Arcadia, the Oak Park Inn (863-494-9500; www.oakparkinnarcadia.com). Downstairs, a single room with an outside entrance is wheelchair accessible. Upstairs, the rooms and suites open up into a large social space with a fireplace, and each has its own special round-the-world flair. Pick your mood. Room #7 looks over the historic train station and sports a Caribbean vibe; #1 is the bunkhouse, perfect for the kids, with bunk beds and cowboy art; #7 is distinctly Victorian; and #5 feels like a New York loft apartment, with a modern urban bath and stone floors. Guests have shared access to a washer and dryer, microwave, and complimentary drinks in the fridge. Rates range from $99 for the bunkhouse to $110 for a standard-sized room and $175 for the suites.
Where to EatLovely Venetian murals accent A Taste of Italy (863-494-1700), 115 Oak St., inside the 1926 Koch Arcade. This popular Italian restaurant serves up culinary classics like eggplant parmesan, manicotti, lasagna, and spaghetti alongside brick oven pizza and subs, $7–15. Open Tues.–Sun. 4 PM–9 PM, Fri.–Sun. 11 AM–4 PM.
Since 1929, Wheeler’s Cafe (863-993-1555), 13 S Monroe Ave., has been the place where the locals eat, and when my friend Becky took me there, we sat right down with some folks we’d never met before—a first for me in an American restaurant! Great conversation ensued, and the food was pure Southern. When the café opened as Goody’s Restaurant, a meal cost 35 cents, and dinner specials are still a bargain at under $10, including roast beef, ham steak, fried catfish, and more, with home-style sides. A hearty breakfast costs only a few bucks and is served up in minutes. Leave room for their “world-famous” peanut butter pie! Open daily 6 AM–9 PM.
Now here’s a place with real Florida character (and characters)—the Nav-A-Gator Grill (941-627-3474, www.nav-a-gator.com), 9700 SW Riverview Cir. It’s a good old-fashioned fish camp that’s a launch point for fishing, kayaking, ecotours, and more, but most folks come here for the food. Their grouper sandwiches are legendary, and local favorites such as sweet potato fries and swamp cabbage are not to be missed, with entrées $12 and up. Smokers (and those enjoying a beer) tend to gather ’round the fire ring out back, where you might catch someone strumming on a banjo or guitar. Walk back to the gift shop and the little museum—it’s full of artifacts, from beads to pottery shards and bones, found on the bottom of the Peace River.
If you’ve never had lunch on a pirate ship, here’s your chance! The Boat in the Moat is firmly aground in the moat around Solomon’s Castle (see Attractions), and the gangplank leads to a different sort of dining adventure. The restaurant surrounding you is a handcrafted piece of art, from the uniquely themed stained-glass windows to each chair and table. It took Howard Solomon four years to build, and it sits on 105 pilings. His daughter Alane oversees the menu, which includes such lunch favorites as grilled chicken salad, homemade chicken pot pie, and corned beef on rye ($7–10). All of the food is homemade, including the desserts. Dinner is served Fri.–Sat. until 9 PM.
For bluegrass and barbecue, c’mon out to “the middle of nowhere” at Herb’s Limestone Country Club (www.herbs.meanbikergirls.com), 5127 S CR 663. It’s a biker bar, a bunker filled with beer and eclectic ephemera like a full-sized wicker motorcycle, plus Herb’s detailed art. He handcrafted the bar, and the beautiful porch. Sit out there and enjoy a cold one, or show up for the fine barbecue Friday through Sunday and especially for the monthly “BBQ and Bands” bluegrass jams on the last Sunday of every month.
An appealing choice along US 17, The Bread Board Restaurant (863-773-2337), 902 US 17 S, offers good comfort food like country fried steak and catfish, and tasty Southern treats like fried green tomatoes and fried eggplant sticks. Lunch and dinner, $5 and up.
Stop for Southern basics such as catfish, steak, and shrimp at the Pioneer Restaurant (863-735-0726), 2902 US 17, just across from Pioneer Park. Sandwiches and dinners $3 and up. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; no credit cards.
A giant rooster tops Rooster’s (863-735-2322), corner School House Rd. and FL 66, so you won’t miss it from the road. Good, filling country breakfasts, an ice cream counter, and Southern selections for dinner.
Set in the pretty peppermint-pink Koch Arcade from 1926, the Hot Fudge Shoppe (863-494-6633), 117 W Oak St., has a ’50s sock-hop atmosphere, accented by a popcorn machine with an aroma that entices you in. They offer cool treats and hot dogs, with hot fudge sundaes starting around $4 and plenty of fountain favorites. They make their own ice cream on the premises—sugar-free and fat-free versions included—and it is worth the trip.
Selected ShoppingDowntown Arcadia is a serious destination for antique shoppers, with well over 300 different dealers tucked away in shops along Oak, Magnolia, and the side streets between them. Bring your wish lists and plan on a day on the town, as you’ll have plenty to browse. Every fourth Saturday, there’s an antiques fair along the streets. Here’s a sampler of what you’ll find on a stroll downtown.
A 1954 Coca-Cola sign dominates the wall at Abigail’s Antiques & Collectibles (863-494-1434), 24 W Oak St., and it’s for sale—along with a spectrum of vintage glassware, classic sheet music, costume jewelry, furniture, and much more.
I saw some very appealing cedar chests at Antiques on Oak (863-494-2038), 132 W Oak St., where unique furnishings are just a part of the setting—look for Tiffany lamps, stoneware jars, stained-glass windows, and fine glassware, too.
Check out the cheery Christmas corner in the back of Cherry Hill Antiques (863-993-2344; www.CherryHillAntiques.com), 120 W Oak St., and a collection of beer steins in the front of the store. Many of their items can be viewed (and purchased!) online.
Groaning under the weight of used paperbacks—more than 12,000 books stuffed into this little 1908 white and yellow cottage—Crackerhouse Books (863-993-1445), 236 N Brevard Ave., offers bibliophiles a treasure trove to dig through, especially for paper ephemera. Call ahead, as their hours are offbeat.
ROOSTER’S DINER IN ZOLFO SPRINGS
Sandra Friend
Housed in the historic Dozier’s Department Store, Isabelle’s Fine Antiques (863-491-1004), 104 W Oak St., has a little bit of everything, from postcards to printer’s trays, wooden rolling pins, a root beer barrel, and a back room full of books.
J&R Antiques (863-494-3398), 125 W Oak St, has classic lamps, tablecloths, and dishes among the home-decor related antiques in their collection.
The Last Chapter Books & Cafe (863-491-0250), 23 W Oak St., offers browsers books, books, and more books, including a fine little cache of antiquarian titles and classic comics, plus a nice little coffee shop.
Everything’s folksy at Maddy’s Antiques (863-494-2500; www.maddysantiques.com), 121 W Oak St., a fun place to browse for folk art, dried flowers, and antique wood.
Oak Leaf Antiques & Collectibles (863-491-5044), 101 W Oak St., offers dealer booths with upscale items such as intarsia trays, a sterling silver tea server, classy quilts, and unforgettable Florida scenes by the Highwayman artists.
The upper floor of the landmark Old Opera House, circa 1920, is home to Pyewackets (863-494-3006), 106 W Oak St., a real treat—the old-time cinema is chock-full of antiques. Most are for sale, but some aren’t, as many constitute a museum dedicated to the heyday of this film house. A whole room is themed and maintained by the “phantom of the opera.” The dealer booths and unique movie-history ephemera offer hours of browsing.
Fine furnishings and stained-glass lamps are among the treasures you’ll uncover at Timeless Treasures (863-993-9393), 103 W Oak St.
Duck inside Treasure Alley (863-993-1838), 122 W Oak St., to browse their interesting mix of items, including military uniforms, mink stoles, and fishing rods.
A feminine display of Victoriana, The Vintage Garden (863-494-3555), 14 W Oak St., has classic cottage decor, plus vintage dresses and hats, purses, and costume jewelry.
Along US 17, watch for roadside stands with fresh seafood and local produce. Nocatee Produce is a roadside stand in Nocatee with local watermelons and tomatoes in season. At Fort Ogden Gardens U-Pick, near CR 761, grab organic vegetables, including tomatoes and onions, and fresh fruits in season.
In Wauchula, it’s hard to miss Sandy’s Big Tree Produce (863-767-0868), 906 S Sixth Ave., for some of the region’s freshest veggies and fruit.
Special EventsJanuary: Experience the agricultural bounty of Arcadia at the DeSoto County Fair (863-494-5678; www.desotocountyfair.org), which began in 1953 to showcase livestock and produce. The fair has grown to be a fun family outing with a midway, beauty pageants, gospel music, and exhibit booths. Held late Jan.–early Feb.
The Gold Wing Express Arcadia Bluegrass Festival (www.craigsrv.com/bluegrass.html), a three-day weekend of bluegrass bands, kicked off a new tradition in January 2009, bringing more bluegrass to this musical region.
February–March: One week, 120 miles, all on horseback: The Florida Cracker Trail Ride (www.crackertrail.org) harkens back to the day when Florida’s cattle drovers moved their herds down the Peace River Valley to Punta Rassa. To draw attention to Florida’s cattle heritage, members of the Florida Cracker Trail Association ride 15 to 20 miles each day on “The Big Ride” from Bradenton to Fort Pierce. Catch the cowmen at Pioneer Park (see Parks) or at any of their stopping points on FL 64, US 98, or FL 68 along the route.
March: All-Florida Championship Rodeo, Arcadia (see Rodeo).
The Cracker Heritage Festival (863-767-0330; www.mainstreetwauchula.com/cracker_heritage.htm), held on a mid-month Saturday by Main Street Wauchula, this festival focuses on regional heritage. Enjoy a pancake breakfast or barbecue lunch, Florida Cracker crafts, kids’ activities, musical entertainment, and both silent and live auctions.
Since 1968, Pioneer Park Days (863-773-2161; www.hardeecounty.net/Pioneer/index.cfm), at Pioneer Park, Zolfo Springs, has celebrated the region’s rich history with pioneer craft demonstrations, country entertainment, good church food, and the fourth largest gathering of antique engines in the United States. Held the first weekend of the month.
May: Watermelon Festival, Arcadia. Includes plenty of watermelon eating, seed spitting contests, and the crowning of the Watermelon Queen, as well as a Sugar Babies contest.