To SeeCovering 730 square miles, Lake Okeechobee is an inland sea. It’s the second largest lake entirely within the United States, and it has a significant girdle around it called the Herbert Hoover Dike, built for flood control after two devastating hurricanes in the 1920s killed thousands of residents by pushing the water right out of this shallow bowl and into the surrounding prairies. Only 15 feet deep in most places, the lake was once an integral part of water movement through the Kissimmee Valley and into the Everglades; now, the River of Grass relies on locks and canals to feed its need for fresh water. Thanks to the dike, the entire shoreline is managed by the Army Corps of Engineers. There are no waterfront condos, no sprawling lakeside cities, and very few views—unless you climb atop the dike and take a walk.
Water has always been the lifeblood of the region. The Calusa found their way up from the southeastern coast and established villages along the lake they called “Mayami,” the Big Water. In the 1800s settlers pushed their way up the Caloosahatchee River and founded LaBelle, named for Laura and Belle, the daughters of Civil War hero Capt. Francis Asbury Hendry. Farming and ranching became the backbone of the economy around the lake as the city of Moore Haven, founded in 1915 by James A. Moore, was settled on the western shore. Okeechobee is the largest settlement on the eastern shore of the lake and the heart of South Florida’s cattle country. Dating from the late 1800s, this frontier town saw its first explosive growth around 1915 as a port city for the fishing industry along the lake. The 1920s Florida land boom brought cattlemen to the area, and the town’s livestock market—still going strong—opened in 1939. Planned by famed city planner John Nolan and established as a company town by the U.S. Sugar Company, Clewiston, the “Sweetest Town in America,” also sprung to life during the land boom as the Atlantic Coast Line railroad pushed south into lands drained and “reclaimed” for farmland around the southern edge of the lake, leading to an influx of farm workers into South Bay, Belle Glade, and Pahokee by the 1920s. Sugarcane fields stretch to the horizon in what was once part of the Everglades “river of grass,” but they may vanish within the decade—an ambitious state project to turn agricultural lands back into the Everglades is underway, and the fruits of these efforts won’t be known for at least another five years.
Refreshingly rural, this remains an agricultural region where cattle, sugar, oranges, and rice are the major crops. But that doesn’t mean there’s a lack of tourists. If you’ve ever wondered where all those RVs are headed down the interstates every winter, chances are they’re staking out camp at one of the many, many campgrounds around Lake Okeechobee. Anglers arrive here from around the globe for legendary fishing. With fishing, hiking, birding, boating, and historic sites to visit, you’ll find plenty to see and do. I know; I’ve returned at least a week out of every year since 2002 to enjoy the outdoors here.
GUIDANCE Florida’s Freshwater Frontier (1-800-467-4540; www.floridafreshwaterfrontier.com), P.O. Box 1196, Sebring, 33871-1196 brings together tourism information for all of the counties and small communities around Lake Okeechobee. For Hendry County, visit the Hendry County Tourist Development Council (863-612-4783; www.visithendrycounty.com) at the Greater LaBelle Chamber of Commerce, 125 E. Hickpochee Ave. Along US 27, stop in at the Clewiston Chamber of Commerce (863-983-7979), 109 Central Ave. in the Clewiston Museum (see Museums) for brochures. In downtown Moore Haven, pick up information from the Glades County Tourist Development Council (863-946-0300; www.visitglades.com), on US 27 across from Beck’s Gas Station, Moore Haven. In downtown Okeechobee at the visitors center adjoining the police station, the Okeechobee Chamber of Commerce (863-763-6464; www.okeechobeechamberofcommerce.com), 55 S Parrott Ave., can load you up with maps and brochures. Okeechobee County Tourist Development Council (863-763-3959 or 1-800-871-4403; www.okeechobee-tdc.com), 499 NW Fifth Ave., presents details about the area on their Web site. Contact the Palm Beach County Convention and Visitors Bureau (561-233-3000 or 1-800-833-5733; www.palmbeachfl.com), 1555 Palm Beach Lakes Blvd., Ste. 800, West Palm Beach, in advance for a brochure on things to do and see in Pahokee, Belle Glade, and South Bay. For information about the lake, its water control structures (locks and dams), and campgrounds at those structures, contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers South Florida Operations Office (863-983-8101; www.saj.usace.army.mil), 525 Ridgelawn Rd., Clewiston.
GETTING THERE By car: US 27 and US 441 provide primary north-south access, with SR 80 running east-west through LaBelle, Clewiston, and Belle Glade. SR 78 links Okeechobee to Moore Haven via Lakeport.
By air:The nearest major airport to the eastern side of the region is Palm Beach International Airport (PBIA) in West Palm Beach (see North Palm Beach County); to the west, it’s Southwest Florida International Airport (see The Beaches of Fort Myers Sanibel).
By boat: The Okeechobee Waterway runs 152 miles from Port St. Lucie to Fort Myers utilizing the St. Lucie Canal, Lake Okeechobee, and the Caloosahatchee River. You can access Lake Okeechobee from either coast using your private boat.
GETTING AROUND By car: Unless you’re boating, a car is necessary for exploring this region. To circle Lake Okeechobee clockwise starting at the city of Okeechobee, follow US 441 south to Canal Point, CR 715 south to Belle Glade, SR 80 west to Clewiston, US 27 north to Moore Haven, and SR 78 east back to Okeechobee. Mind the speed limits, especially around Clewiston, South Bay, and Belle Glade. SR 29 connects US 27 in Palmdale with LaBelle, and SR 80 connects LaBelle back to US 27 to Clewiston. An unfortunately high number of speeders on SR 80 led to strict enforcement of speed limits for safety’s sake.
By boat: Open-water crossing of Lake Okeechobee is generally rough and requires careful attention to depth readings. A navigable route follows the shoreline of the lake, utilizing the deep-water Rim Canal in places and channel markers in dredged areas of the lake in other places. Consult navigational charts for details.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES For major emergencies go to Hendry Regional Medical Center (863-983-9121; www.hendryregional.org), 500 W Sugarland Hwy., Clewiston, or Raulerson Hospital (863-763-2151; www.raulersonhospital.com), 1796 US 441 N, Okeechobee.
To SeeARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES Hidden in the sugarcane fields along the Herbert Hoover Dike near Belle Glade lie the Chosen Mounds, a multilayered burial complex unearthed by Smithsonian researchers led by George Tallant in the 1930s. In addition to bones of the Calusa, a coastal people from Pine Island Sound (see The Beaches of Fort Myers Sanibel), archaeologists discovered pottery shards, conchs used as hoes, and porpoise teeth used for engraving. Some of the artifacts removed from this site and from a burial complex near Nicodemus Slough (SR 78 near Moore Haven) can be viewed at the South Florida Museum in Bradenton (see Florida’s Gulf Islands). At Fort Center, now accessible via a new interpretive trail at Fisheating Creek WMA (see Wild Places), archaeologists discovered a charnel platform decorated with wooden animal carvings; it was perfectly preserved by the muck at the bottom of a pond and is thought to be from the Belle Glade people, circa 500 A.D., who built earthen mounds and actively cultivated maize.
At the Ortona Indian Mound Park (863-946-0440), SR 78 west of US 27 and east of SR 29, walk through part of a village complex from 3,000 years ago and along canoe canals built by the Calusa not far from the Caloosahatchee River along Turkey Creek. A kiosk with interpretive information helps to orient you to the cultures that lived here and to follow trails around the site, which is heavily buried under vegetation. At 22 feet, the primary temple mound is the highest point in Glades County. Dispersed across 5 square miles, the overall complex is one of the largest prehistoric sites in Florida.
For more than a decade, Sue Arnold has been rehabilitating and caring for native and exotic wildlife at Arnold’s Wildlife (www.arnoldswildlife.org), 14895 NW 30th Terrace, off NW 144th Rd. With a group of dedicated volunteers, she handles more than 700 animals a year through the complex, and some have become permanent residents, including Florida panthers rescued from overpopulated zoos; hurricane victims like Dolly and Casper, a pair of cockatoos; lemurs without a home; and dozens of other raptors, marsupials, and felines. Guinea hens squawk as a panther paces a few feet away, and native deer roam through the garden. More than 720,000 children visit the center each year. But it’s more than a wildlife rehab center with the addition of Arnold’s Butterfly Haven (www.arnoldsbutterflyhaven.com), an integral part of the outdoor experience on this family ranch. Step through the arbor and into a world where hundreds of butterflies flit about, entirely free-roaming, attracted by the colorful and aromatic plantings along garden paths arranged in the shape of our state butterfly, the zebra longwing. More than 57 species have been documented living, breeding, and feeding in this skillfully created garden. Climb to the top of the observation deck for a bird’s-eye view. A 1.5-mile nature trail circles around the property. Open 9 AM–6 PM daylight savings time and 10 AM–5 PM the rest of the year; $10 donation.
BIG CYPRESS SEMINOLE RESERVATION
When the swamp buggy headed straight for the canal, it startled everyone in the high, bouncing vehicle, including me. Airboats zip down these canals and I didn’t think our driver, Kat, could power that swamp monster through the muck and keep us afloat, but she did. At Billie Swamp Safari (863-983-6101 or 1-800-949-6101; www.seminoletribe.com/safari), Lemon Grove Rd., it’s an immersion into the Big Cypress Swamp, ancestral home of the Seminole Tribe since the 1800s, but with a twist. Winding along trails through the dense forest and floodplain swamps along the swamp buggy tour, you’ll see Asian water buffalo and ostriches, and other exotic animals as well as feral hogs, raccoons, alligators, and hundreds of wading birds. Along the way, your tour guide will fill you in on the flora and fauna of Big Cypress, the history of the Seminole, and interesting tidbits tied to the land, such as the best places for Florida panthers to take a perch. The rambling ride with its bumps and bounces is a counterpoint to the popular airboat tours, where you glide at high speed through the swamp with stops at key points, especially where it’s possible to get up close to an alligator. The grounds include numerous animal displays, focused on native wildlife, including a Herpetarium with Florida snakes and some of the biggest alligators you’ll see, and the Swamp Critters Show showcases more cuddly critters like armadillo, baby alligators, and snapping turtles. A nature trail winds along a boardwalk through a pop ash swamp. What’s especially fun, however, is that you can stay overnight (see Campgrounds) in an authentic chickee, the Seminole version of a grass hut, and sit around a campfire listening to storytellers. It’s a very different and authentic experience, one that will leave you with an appreciation of the Seminole and the habitats of the Big Cypress Swamp. Prices are à la carte with packages available. Swamp buggy $25 adult, $23 senior, $15 child; airboat $15; educational programs $8 adult, $4 child. Children must be 4 or older to ride in an airboat.
A Florida classic since 1957, Gatorama (863-675-0623; www.gatorama.com), 6180 US 27, showcases an endangered Florida reptile that you won’t see much of anywhere else—the American crocodile. Endemic to South Florida, these massive saltwater creatures breed from December through January; the colony here dates from the 1960s and now numbers more than 50. When you see owner Allen Register or one of his staff dangling food into the pond for the alligators to munch, you’ll understand what a half century of growth means in gator terms: these creatures are huge! One large pond is divided in two by the walkway and fencing to keep the more aggressive alligators away from the American crocodile colony. Although the exhibits are old-style tiled pools, they showcase interesting creatures such as the mugger crocodile of India and the Nile crocodile. In 1987 the Register family began farming alligators for meat, and the demand still outstrips their supply. Covered walkways lead you past the exhibits, but you’ll spend most of your time marveling at the size of the reptiles cruising the big pond. Open daily; $15 adults, children (under 60 inches) $7, little ones free.
CATTLE AUCTION Watch a live auction every week at the Okeechobee Livestock Market (863-763-3127; www.floridacattleauction.com), 1055 US 98 N, Okeechobee, where ranchers around the region round up their cattle for sale. It’s free and fun. This is cattle country, where a 10,000-acre spread is not out of the ordinary. Florida has a long history of cattle ranching, dating from the Spanish explorers of the 1500s, and remains the third largest ranching state east of the Mississippi, with 1.1 million head of beef cattle and more than 150,000 head of dairy cattle. Calves are sold here between July and January through February.
The Torry Island Swing Bridge on Torry Island Road at Point Chosen is a unique hand-cranked swinging drawbridge connecting the largest island in Lake Okeechobee with the mainland, and it is the oldest remaining manually operated bridge in Florida.
You’ll find dozens of historic sites clustered around downtown, starting with the Bond Street Historic Business District at Bond and Sugarland Hwy. Stop in at the chamber of commerce or The Clewiston Inn (see Lodging) for a walking-tour brochure (see Walking Tours) to explore the area, by foot or by car. Significant historic homes include the B. G. Dahlberg Executive House, 125 W Del Monte Ave.; the Captain Deane Duff House, 151 W Del Monte Ave.; and the Percy Bishop House, 325 E Del Monte Ave., all built on the original lakeside bluff. St. Margaret Catholic Church, 208 N Deane Ave., is the oldest church in town, built in 1931. The quaint wooden Army Corps of Engineers Settlement Homes between Ponce de Leon and Royal Palm Ave., crossing the streets of Balboa, Arcade and Crescent, were built for the men working on the Herbert Hoover Dike in the 1930s after the hurricanes. The dedication marker for the dike is the Hoover Dike Memorial, which is above the boat ramp near the Clewiston lock. The dike took six years to build.
GATORAMA
Sandra Friend
ALLIGATORS GROW HUGE AT GATORAMA
Sandra Friend
On the National Register of Historic Places, the Hendry County Courthouse, SR 80 and SR 29, was built in 1926 in an Italian Renaissance Revival style. It features a four-story clock tower.
Grecian columns flank the doorways to the Glades County Courthouse (863-946-6001), US 27 between Fifth and Sixth Sts., where you can walk inside and see the thick vault doors leading to the inner chambers, and huge historic maps on the wall. Designed by E. C. Hosford, the courthouse dates back to 1928.
By virtue of its age and location, the Lone Cypress Tree (also known as the Sentinel Cypress), Ave. J and the Caloosahatchee River, qualifies as a piece of history—it served as a navigational marker for sailors on the Lake Okeechobee for more than a century, as they used it to find the entrance to the newly dug Caloosahatchee Canal. Years later, the construction of a lock made the tree less useful for navigation, but it’s a beautiful landmark around which the city grew.
A significant downtown historic district lies between SE 4th Ave. and NW 8th Ave., which includes the Okeechobee County Courthouse and the Old Jail. The railroad station (see Railroadiana) dates back to the early 1910s. Stop and take a look at the massive Okeechobee Freshman Campus Historical Mural depicting the settlement of the area, painted on the side of the high school gymnasium at 610 SW 2nd Ave. and 6th St.
The Battle of Okeechobee (www.okeechobeebattlefield.com) is commemorated with a Historic Marker in front of what’s left of the Old Habits Tavern, US 441 SE. For years, it’s been all that that physically remains to point out the location of one of the most significant battles of the Second Seminole War. An annual reenactment (see Special Events) brings this turning point in Florida’s history to life. In 2008, the state of Florida purchased 145 acres of land in this area that includes a portion of the battle site, with plans to eventually turn it into a state historic site.
Cracker tales come alive, so to speak, at the Ortona Cemetery, SR 78 west of US 27 and east of US 29, in the middle of cattle country. Here, Seminole chief Billy Bowlegs III (who was 104 when he died) was interred in 1965, and saddles and cowboy boots decorate the resting places of the departed. A homemade headstone tells the story of a mother and children who died during the 1928 hurricane. This is the only interment site in Glades County.
Commemorating the region’s top folk historian, the Lawrence Will Museum (561-996-3453), 530 South Main St., in the Belle Glade branch library, offers a look into the research of the man who thoroughly studied the Okeechobee hurricanes, with artifacts and historical records. Free.
A walk through the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum (863-902-1113; www.ahtahthiki.com), corner of CR 833 and Government Rd., is a walk through time, experiencing Florida through the eyes of the Seminole people. According to tribal history, ancestors of the Seminoles first crossed paths with European culture in 1510, when a Spanish slave ship landed in South Florida. A brief movie introduces you to Seminole culture and life, both ancient and modern, setting the stage for browsing the 5,000-square-foot exhibit hall. Interpretive information is provided by tribal members, recounting the use of certain arrows, how women ran the camp, how sofkee was made, and hundreds of other details that paint a picture of the evolution of their culture. The displays themselves are world-class, with extreme attention to detail, such as the waterway scene with its ripples and details of what’s under the water. An exhibit on the Green Corn Dance illuminates the religious beliefs and practices of the Seminole Tribe. Each exhibit contains objects of historic importance; a temporary exhibit on Osceola, for instance, included his deerskin coat from 1835 worn by the warrior during the signing of the Lake Monroe Treaty. The outdoors is an extension of the museum, with a 1.5-mile boardwalk loop leading through 60 acres of typical Big Cypress Swamp habitats. Don’t miss this part of the exhibit, as interpretive information is provided on the traditional medicinal uses of plants and trees. Along the trail, there’s a meeting area used for ceremonial functions, and a group of chickees where Seminole artisans perfect and sell their crafts. Inside the museum, a gift shop sells art, books, and traditional items. Open 9 AM–5 PM daily. Adults $9; seniors, students, and military $6; children 4 and under, free.
DETAIL OF THE OKEECHOBEE PIONEER MURAL
Sandra Friend
When I first visited the Clewiston Museum (863-983-2870; www.clewistonmuseum.org), 109 Central Ave., I was pleasantly surprised that it was packed with bits of local history that I knew nothing about before my visit, such as the No. 5 British Flying Training School housed in Clewiston during the 1940s, where British airmen came for fighter-pilot training, and the history behind why the Herbert Hoover Dike was built, with dramatic photos of the destruction from the hurricanes of 1926 and 1928. Now in its new spacious digs—the original home of the Clewiston News—the museum is bigger and better than ever, with a fossil room featuring a diorama and cases of fossils found within Hendry County, like a mastodon’s lower jaw and tusk; a theater with presentations on natural and cultural history of the area; and extensive exhibits on early settlement, day-to-day life, and agriculture, especially the sugar industry. A gift shop with many history books and the official chamber of commerce brochure racks round out the complex. Open 9 AM–4 PM Mon.–Fri. Fee.
Housed in the historic home of the H. A. Rider family, the LaBelle Heritage Museum (863-674-0034), 150 S Lee St., features exhibits on local and regional history. Open 2 PM–5 PM Thurs.–Sat. Donation.
Learn about life on Florida’s frontier at the Okeechobee Historical Society Museum & Schoolhouse (863-763-4344); 1850 FL 70 N, the region’s first one-room schoolhouse, built in 1907. Call to arrange a tour.
RAILROADIANA The South Central Florida Express (SCFE) Depot at W Aztec and W. C. Owen in Clewiston is home to the short line’s rolling stock; stop here to take photos of the brightly painted locomotives. SCFE services the sugarcane fields to assist in the harvest. Okeechobee had a growth spurt when the Florida East Coast Railroad built a spur line into town, completed in 1915. The historic Florida East Coast Railroad station at 801 N Parrott Ave.—which in recent years was a stop on Amtrak until service cutbacks—is slated for renovation.
FOSSILS AT THE CLEWISTON MUSEUM
Sandra Friend
SCENIC VIEWS The Harney Pond Canal Overlook near Lakeport, SR 78 at CR 721, extends nearly a half mile out into the lake, with an observation platform great for birding. At John Stretch Park (see Parks), US 27 between Clewiston and South Bay, climb up the dike for a view of the Rim Canal and the marshes beyond. Stop at Moore Haven Recreation Area or the Parrott Avenue Wayside (aka Lock 7/Jaycee Park) along US 441 for views of the broad expanse of blue along the eastern shore of the lake. And for days and days of panoramic views, walk the Florida Trail (see Hiking) around Lake Okeechobee, which has my favorite scenic view—Indian Prairie.
THE RIM CANAL AT SOUTH BAY
Sandra Friend
To DoAIRBOATS 
Capt. Terry Garrels took me on one heck of a spin on Big “O” Air-boat Tours (863-983-2037; www.bigofishing.com/airboat.html), 920 E Del Monte Ave., departing from Roland Martin’s Marina in Clewiston. Once through the lock and out into the lake, we followed the Rim Canal until the captain found a good break into the “grassy waters,” the shallow marshes not far off the shoreline, and whizzed us through narrow passageways where alligators lounged, moorhens floated, and manatees surfaced. Unexpectedly, we came out into open water, which had enough bounce to it to make me feel like we were on the ocean. On our 10-mile route, Captain Terry made numerous stops to explain the habitats and wildlife we were seeing, including pointing out a lone pond apple tree growing in the shallows—according to historic accounts, a forest of these wizened trees once marched southwest from this lake’s shores. Call for rates, reservations required.
At Billie Swamp Safari (see Attractions), the airboat ride takes you whizzing past a line of chickees in front of a cypress dome before banking into a series of canals through natural habitats, including through a swamp forest where colorful bromeliads dangle from the cypresses.
AN AIRBOAT ZIPS BY AT BILLIE SWAMP SAFARI
Sandra Friend
Captain Don’s Florida Airboat & Pontoon Tours (863-634-2109; www.floridacrappiefishing.com) offers air-boat tours on Eagle Bay near Okeechobee for $25 adult, $15 child for a one-hour tour. He also offers pontoon tours on the Kissimmee River for $50 per hour, up to six people.
AGRICULTURAL TOURS Sugarland Tours (863-983-7979 or 1-877-693-4372; www.clewiston.org), 544 W Sugarland Hwy., offers a glimpse into both the history of Clewiston and how sugar is processed, from the cane in the fields to the refined grains pouring into a bag. In this town, history and sugar are forever linked thanks to Charles Stewart Mott, who bought the bankrupt Southern Sugar Company in 1931 and reopened it as the U.S. Sugar Corporation, convincing investors that the Everglades muck was “black gold” for sugar growers. Most of the historic homes in town are a part of that era of rebirth and expansion, and as we rode through the shaded residential streets, our tour guide explained who built which grand old home and why.
Once out in the fields, we drove through the Southern Gardens Citrus Processing Plant and received a thorough explanation of how oranges become juice and concentrate, even though on that particular day, the plant wasn’t in operation for us to get out and visit. We did disembark, however, along a string of railroad cars in a sugarcane field that was being harvested and watched the dinosaur-like harvester machines at work. Our guide pulled out a machete and chopped fresh cane for us to taste.
At the Clewiston Sugar Refinery, we watched from the safety of our bus as train cars offloaded their sugarcane into hoppers that carry the plant materials into the factory for processing. Donning shower caps and little plastic booties, we were allowed to watch processed sugar being bagged and stacked for shipment on the factory floor, with robotic arms spinning plastic webs around stacks of sacks and LP gas–driven loaders scurrying everywhere.
The tour continues on to provide you a view of Lake Okeechobee, with history of settlement along the lake and the building of the Herbert Hoover Dike, and then wraps up with a buffet lunch at the Clewiston Inn. The comfortable 24-passenger bus totes you from stop to stop. Tours are offered weekdays at 10 AM; reserve your spot in advance by contacting the Clewiston Chamber of Commerce. Call for rates and reservations.
SUGAR CANE FIELDS NEAR BELLE GLADE
Sandra Friend
Eagle Bay Airboat Rides (863-824-0500; www.okeechobeeairboat.com), 900 SR 78 W, Okeechobee, takes you on an hour-long tour of Eagle Bay Marsh and Limpkin Creek, once a part of Lake Okeechobee’s shores. Watch for alligators, spot eagles, and osprey, and bring your binoculars to spy the birds Captain Don points out. Ninety-minute tours out on Lake Okeechobee are also offered. Call for rates and reservations.
BICYCLING Atop the Herbert Hoover Dike, the Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail (see Greenways) is now paved from Clewiston to the Pahokee Marina and Moore Haven to the Okee-tantie Recreation Area, providing nearly 50 miles for street bikes to traverse.
BIRDING Birding is fabulous all around the lake—I haven’t been disappointed yet. White pelicans soar over the open water, sandhill cranes gather in groups on the prairies near Okeechobee, bald eagles nest on Torry Island, and osprey creel from snags all along the Rim Canal. For excellent birding, hit the Florida Trail (see Hiking) around the lake and to the south through Hendry County, where you’ll spot caracara along the edges of the sugarcane fields. Vance Whidden Park, a low-lying area just up the road toward Lakeport, has great birding along the marshes. Chandler Slough, along US 98 in Basinger, is a prime place to stop and watch the birds in the cypress trees. For a place where you can spend days in search of caracara, sandhill cranes, red-shouldered hawks, and more, head out to the wide open spaces of Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park (see Wild Places), where the expanses of prairie and palmetto are brimming with birds, including the Florida grasshopper sparrow. Several Wildlife Management Areas (see Wild Places) in the region also offer excellent birding. At Rotenberger WMA, I saw groups of roseate spoonbills winging their way across the marshes, and crested caracara in the surrounding fields. The annual Big O Birding Festival (see Festivals) offers field trips into these productive areas and workshops on birding.
BOATING Public boat ramps are available at all major recreation areas around the lake, including Clewiston Park, South Bay, Port Mayaca, and Alvin Ward Park in Moore Haven; there are numerous private ramps as well. Before heading out on the lake, boaters should pick up a navigational map at one of the marinas as this is one of the shallowest large lakes in the world. Among the many marinas servicing the lake are the Belle Glade Marina (561-996-6322), off SR 715 to SR 717, Belle Glade; Buckhead Marina (863-763-4716), 250 Buckhead Ridge Rd., west of Okeechobee off SR 78; Okee-tantie Marina at the Okee-tantie Recreation Area (see Campgrounds), and the Pahokee Marina (see Campgrounds). In Clewiston you can put in or dock at Roland Martin’s Lakeside Resort (see Lodging), a full-service marina. West of Moore Haven off SR 80, The Glades Resort (see Campgrounds) has a deep-water marina along the Caloosahatchee River and can accommodate boats up to 60 feet.
ECOTOURS At Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park (see Wild Places), sign up for their buggy tours, the best way to see Florida’s largest remaining prairie from on high and with interpretation. Each trip takes 2.5 hours and runs twice a day on weekends (8 AM and 1:30 PM) and on holidays. Call in advance to reserve a seat.
The Seminole Tribe of Florida offers tours through the wilds of their Big Cypress Reservation at Seminole Tours (1-800-949-6101 or 1-863-983-6101; www.seminoletours.com). In addition to package deals for Billie Swamp Safari (see Attractions) and the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum (see Museums), they offer overnight tours and personalized swamp buggy tours.
FAMILY ACTIVITIES Enjoy a real old-fashioned movie theater experience at Mann’s Clewiston Theatre (see Entertainment) in Clewiston, a restored beauty from 1941, or take the kids down to Woodworks Park on Osceola Ave. in Clewiston, a gigantic wooden “super playground” from 1992, adjacent to the public library and pool complex. In Okeechobee, take the family bowling at 
Stardust Lanes (863-467-1800), 1465 US 441 SE.
FISHING If you like to fish, you’ve come to the right place! Lake Okeechobee is a mecca for anglers and has long been known for its great bass fishing—although water management of inflow and outflow via locks and dams has caused serious problems to the quality of the fishery in recent years. But the tiny village of Sand Cut (population eight) along US 441 lays claim to being the speckled perch capital of the world, and I’ve seen some serious catfish in anglers’ boats as they waited in the locks. If you’re a first-timer here, it’s best to check in with one of the marinas (see Boating) or fish camps (see Fish Camps), or contact the Lake Okeechobee Guide Association (1-800-284-2446; www.fishokeechobee.com). One recommendation from my Ontario friend who comes down to fish every year: stop in a bait-and-tackle shop such as Garrard’s Tackle Shop (863-763-3416; www.okeechobeebassguides.com), 4259 US 441 S, Okeechobee, ask around, and you’ll come up with a local who knows the waters like the back of his hand.
GAMING Who needs Vegas for slots? Here they are in the middle of cattle country at the Seminole Casino Brighton (1-866-2-CASINO; www.seminolecasinobrighton.com), on the Brighton Seminole Reservation west of Okeechobee between SR 78 and SR 70. In addition to more than 300 gaming machines, they run high-stakes poker and big-ticket bingo. They’re open 24 hours, 7 days a week, with an on-site restaurant, the Josiah Lounge, open late.
GOLF With its greens within sight of the Herbert Hoover Dike, the Belle Glade Golf and Country Club (561-996-6605), 110 SW E Martin Luther King Ave., Belle Glade, is one busy place on weekends. This par 72 public course features 18 holes under tropical palms. At The Glades Resort (see Campgrounds) off SR 80, the 3,178-yard, par 36 course makes use of natural landscaping along its nine holes. This public course is inexpensive, too, with greens fees starting at $22 to walk, $20 with cart for 9 holes, $30 for 18 holes. Call 863-983-8464 for tee times.
GHOST TOUR Slip around the corridors of the Clewiston Inn (see Lodging) late at night on a guided walk to catch one of several apparitions that employees have been “seeing” for years—a former cook who rattles the kitchen pots, and two female guests who, it seems, checked out . . . without checking out. Ask at the front desk for details.
FISHING THE SHALLOWS OF LAKE OKEECHOBEE
Sandra Friend
HIKING The granddaddy of hiking trails in this region is the Florida Trail (1-877-HIKE-FLA; www.floridatrail.org), which comes in from the south from Big Cypress Swamp and follows the water management canals through sugarcane fields and ranches for nearly 40 miles before reaching Lake Okeechobee, where it splits into two routes and encircles the lake for more than 110 miles. With numerous designated campsites (each with covered picnic bench and fire ring) on the lakeshore, this is a popular destination for backpackers, but it takes a special breed—you spend your time in the sun, and, recently, nearly half of the trail has been paved by the state to accommodate other users. The rewards are the amazing views and astounding amount of wildlife you see from the Herbert Hoover Dike. Those wanting to walk around the entire lake on day hikes join up with the annual Big O Hike (see Special Events) each year, as I’ve done. The linear Florida Trail continues north from Okee-tantie to follow the Kissimmee River upstream, with beauty spots accessible via trail-heads at Yates Marsh, Chandler Slough and Micco Landing. The 5-mile Raphael Sanchez Trail at Okeechobee Ridge Park, accessed from the Port Mayaca Recreation Area, leads hikers on a shaded walk along the historic lakeshore. A backpacking route to the Atlantic Ocean, the 72-mile Ocean to Lake Trail is now accessible from a new trailhead along US 441 between Canal Point and Port Mayaca and heads east to pass through DuPuis Management Area (see Wild Places), part of the Northeast Everglades Natural Area (NENA).
ENTRANCE TO THE BRIGHTON RESERVATION
Sandra Friend
AN EARLY ROUND AT THE BELLE GLADE GOLF COURSE
Sandra Friend
North of Palmdale, Platt Branch Mitigation Park (863-648-3203; www.myfwc.com/RECREATION/platt_branch), Detjens Dairy Rd., Venus, marks the southernmost extent of the Lake Wales Ridge, protecting more than 1,700 acres of scrub and scrubby flatwoods and the associated flora and fauna found in these rare habitats. Marked trails following forest roads create loop hikes of up to 5 miles; plans are for the trail system to be extended to allow backpacking along Fisheating Creek.
PADDLING Think of Lake Okeechobee like an inland ocean—it’s big enough to get whitecaps and storm surges, and yet shallow enough to support a hefty alligator population. That said, not too many folks kayak out there, although following the shoreline looks like it would be nice. Instead, head to the Fisheating Creek Canoe Trail (863-675-5999; www.fisheatingcreekresort.com), 7555 US 27 N, managed by the folks at Fisheating Creek Resort (see Campgrounds). Open year-round, the trail roughly parallels the route of US 27 and offers one- or two-day trips starting at either Venus or Burnt Bridge. On your float trip, you are welcome to camp in any dry, pleasant spot along this meandering cypress-lined creek, one of the most beautiful canoe runs in Florida. The livery provides shuttles ($20–25) and canoe rentals ($30 per day); reservations required. If you can do only one paddling trip in South Florida, do this one.
ROCKHOUNDING Dig for fossils in Florida? Better yet, serious collectors can uncover fossilized sea shells filled with honey-colored calcite crystals at the Fort Drum Crystal Mine (863-634-4579), a favorite destination for mineral collecting clubs. Known for years as Rucks Pit to collectors, it’s the source of fossil shells like Oliva roasa and Prunum bellum, and rarer finds like Iphocypraea rucksorum and Ventrilia rucksorum, named for the owner. Prepare to get very wet and muddy, and bring your own prospecting tools, including shovel, bucket, and screen. Call for directions and cost.
SCENIC DRIVES Follow signs for the Big Water Heritage Trail (www.swfrpc.org/bigwatertrail.shtml) all around Lake Okeechobee to discover points of scenic and historic interest. You can pick up a map and brochure at any of the visitors centers around the lake (see Guidance) or download from the Web site.
Established in 2004 at the urging of Senator Bob Graham, the Everglades Trail (www.evergladestrail.com) is a driving tour that connects the dots of places linked to the natural heritage of the original Everglades. The entire region around Lake Okeechobee is a historic part of the Everglades drainage. Commemorating Florida’s cattle ranching heritage, the Florida Cracker Trail passes through this region using US 98. Drive that route in the early morning, and you’ll experience morning fog wrapping ranches in a dense mist and cows appearing like ghosts against silhouettes of cabbage palms.
SKYDIVING For a unique bird’s-eye view of Lake Okeechobee, jump out of a perfectly good plane over sugarcane fields at Air Adventures of Clewiston (863-983-6151 or 1-800-533-6151; www.skydivefl.com), Air Glades Airport off US 27.
WALKING TOURS Pick up a Clewiston Walking Tour brochure at The Clewiston Inn (see Lodging) or chamber of commerce (see Guidance) and take a walk back into the 1920s by following the route down neighborhood streets to visit historic sites such as the original Clewiston School (circa 1927), St. Margaret’s Catholic Church (circa 1931), and 15 homes from the 1920s, including several on the National Register of Historic Places. Four different routes range from 1 to 2.9 miles, all starting at The Clewiston Inn.
Green SpaceGREENWAYS Managed by the Office of Greenways and Trails, the Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail follows the Herbert Hoover Dike around the lake and is paved for street bikes and roller blading between Port Mayaca and Okee-tantie and Clewiston and Pahokee. Mileages are painted on the asphalt, shaded benches provide resting spots, and kiosks at major access points provide maps of the route.
PARKS Enjoy riverfront picnicking at shady Barron Park in LaBelle along the Caloosahatchee River at SR 29, or explore the new LaBelle Nature Park (www.labellenaturepark.net), along the river at the end of Hardee St., off SR 80, along an old oxbow bend in the river.
Fishing, boating (with on-site launch), and picnicking are popular activities at Clewiston Park along the Herbert Hoover Dike, end of Francisco St.; it’s also an access point to the paved Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail and the Florida Trail.
John Stretch Park, 47225 US Hwy 27, between Clewiston and South Bay, is a favorite picnic spot for motorists, who scramble up the dike to see the Rim Canal and lakeshore marshes.
Between Belle Glade and Pahokee, Rardin Park, 4600 Bacom Point Rd., is set under the shade of massive ficus trees and has picnic tables and a playground; it’s a steep but worthwhile walk up to the dike to see Torry Island and the sweep of the lake.
RECREATION AREAS/LAKE ACCESS POINTS Maintained by the Army Corps of Engineers, recreation areas around Lake Okeechobee provide a place for you to park and walk along the Herbert Hoover Dike; most of the recreation areas have boat ramps and picnic tables, and some have facilities. Key access points include Port Mayaca, at US 441 and SR 76; Henry Creek and Nubbin Slough, along US 441; and Indian Prairie, Harney Pond Canal, Dyess Ditch, and Fisheating Creek, along SR 78.
Tough to get to, but worth the effort if you’re an avid birder, there are several Wildlife Management Areas in southern Hendry County that are notable birding spots. Dinner Island WMA (www.myfwc.com/recreation/dinner_island), south of SR 80 along CR 833, protects 34 square miles of former pastures and prairies, flatwoods and oak hammocks. Holey Land WMA (www.myfwc.com/recreation/holey_land) is more than 35,000 acres and considered the northernmost original remaining portion of the Everglades River of Grass. Access is off US 27 south of South Bay. Nearby Rotenberger WMA (www.myfwc.com/recreation/rotenberger) protects thousands of acres of the original Everglades habitat of sawgrass marshes and hosts colonial nesting birds such as yellow-crowned night herons and cattle egrets.
Along SR 78 between Nicodemus Slough and Fisheating Creek, Vance Whidden Park is an undeveloped park with a dirt road leading out to the prairies along this single stretch of natural lakeshore on the northwest side of the lake, where there is a gap in the Herbert Hoover Dike for 3 miles to permit the Fisheating Creek floodplain to flow naturally into Lake Okeechobee. In the same general vicinity, on the southwestern side of Fisheating Creek, Fisheating Creek WMA (www.myfwc.com/recreation/fisheating_creek), Banana Grove Rd. off SR 78, features a brand-new 1.2-mile interpretive trail (accessed by a 2-mile round trip on a berm, bring a bicycle or walk 3.2 miles) with information about ecosystems and culture along this important waterway.
Protecting 75 square miles of open prairies dotted with palm and oak hammocks, Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park (863-462-5360; www.floridastateparks.org/kissimmeeprairie), 33104 NW 192nd Ave., is Florida’s second largest state preserve and a place that will humble you by its size. As I drove in the front gate and headed down the main road to the campground, I couldn’t help but notice the similarities to driving along Main Park Road in Everglades National Park. The vistas go on forever. Here, it’s not sawgrass, but a combination of prairie grasses and saw palmetto stretching to the horizon. More than 100 miles of old roads crisscross the preserve. Some have been blocked off and set aside as hiking trails, others remain multi-use. This is a good place to bring your bicycle. The campground is a beauty spot, set under the shade of oaks yet open to the prairie, so you can enjoy the panorama from your tent or RV.
Open to equestrians, hikers, bicyclists, and hunters, the DuPuis Management Area (561-924-5314; www.sfwmd.gov/org/clm/lsd/dupindex.html), 23500 SW Kanner Hwy. (FL 76), encompasses more than 21,000 acres of forests, prairies, and wetlands. Stop at the nature center at Gate 5 for an orientation to this magnificent preserve.
Lodging
Get away from it all at the comfortable Big Cypress RV Resort (1-800-437-4102; www.bigcypressrvresort.com), CR 833, in the middle of the Big Cypress Seminole Reservation, just steps away from the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum (see Museums) and near the Billie Swamp Safari (see Attractions). RVs and tent campers welcome ($21–26), and well-appointed cabins are available ($65–75). The park has a clubhouse, aerobic trail, playground, miniature golf, heated swimming pool, and hot tub. Advance reservations suggested during the winter season.
Spend the night surrounded by the Big Cypress Swamp in an authentic Seminole chickee at Billie Swamp Safari (see Attractions). The small palm-thatched buildings sleep two for $35, or you can rent a chickee sleeping 8–12 people for $65. Linens, blankets, and bath towels included; all visitors share the bathhouse and have the opportunity to enjoy storytelling around the campfire or join a night swamp buggy tour (extra fee).
The Clewiston/Lake Okeechobee KOA (863-983-7078 or 1-877-983-7078; www.clokoa.com), 194 CR 720, is in a nicely shaded grove north of town. RV spaces start at $36 daily and tent space (with hookups) for $28. There is one central bathhouse and a swimming pool. They also have rental cabins, including a honeymoon cabin with its own hot tub—ask about it.
Okeechobee Landings (863-983-4144; www.okeechobeelandingsrv.com), 420 Holiday Blvd., caters to the RV crowd with sun-drenched spaces on concrete pads with 50 amp service and full hookups ($35). Enjoy the heated swimming pool or hot tub, or arrange for a fishing guide.
For a different type of outdoor experience, camp in the middle of an orange grove at Grandma’s Grove RV Park (863-675-2567), 2250 W SR 80. You’ll love it during the fragrant orange blossom season! $25 for full hookup; no tents.
The Army Corps of Engineers manages the Ortona Lock Campground (1-877-444-6777; www.reserveamerica.com), where groomed, grassy RV and tent sites ($24; water and electric) have a view of the Caloosahatchee River and access for fishing, off SR 80.
Whisper Creek RV Resort (863-675-6888; www.whispercreek.com), 3745 N SR 29 SW, offers a quiet getaway in the country, yet isn’t far from the amenities of LaBelle, with many planned activities for campers to enjoy. While the resort mainly caters to long-term residents 55 and over, they have overnight rates of $35 for RV camping.
SLEEP IN A CHICKEE AT BILLIE SWAMP SAFARI
Sandra Friend
The Aruba RV Resort (863-946-1324; www.okeedirect.com), 1825 Old Lakeport Rd., is as appealing inside the park as it is from the road. Many sites are shaded with tropical vegetation, waterway access is a cinch, and the heated pool, café, and tiki bar out front are available to all guests. Full-hookup sites include slabs with picnic tables ($31 in the trees, $37 waterfront). Weekly, monthly, and quarterly rates, too.
At The Glades Resort (863-983-8464; www.TheGladesResort.com), 4382 Indian Hills Dr. off SR 80, relax in a cabin along the golf course (see Golf) or bring your RV and settle into a shaded lot not far from the Caloosahatchee River at the marina (see Boating). There are full hookups at your choice of three different campgrounds within this 480-acre complex ($30–35; weekly, monthly, and annual rates available). The comfy cabins have both a bed and futon and run $85 a day.
Snuggled between the Herbert Hoover Dike and the Rim Canal, the Marina RV Resort (863-946-2255), 900 CR 720 NW, offers RV and tent camping right along the Florida Trail (see Hiking), with boating access to both the lake and the Caloosahatchee River. Shady sites are at a premium, but there is a nice central area with a pool, horseshoes, and shuffleboard, and the bathhouse is neat and clean. Full hookups $25, tents $18.
With a private boat ramp right on the Rim Canal, Big Lake Lodge (863-763-4638 or 1-866-256-5566), 8680 US 441 SE, is your destination for fishing. They offer a variety of accommodations for campers, including tent sites ($15), RV sites ($30–45), park models ($60–80), and furnished efficiency apartments ($45–65).
It’s not just a campground—it’s a vacation destination. At the Okeechobee KOA Resort & Golf Course (863-763-0231 or 1-800-562-7748; www.okeechobeekoa.com), 4276 US 441 S, you can play nine holes of golf, relax in the hot tub, grab a bike for a spin, or sip a cold one in the tiki bar. Their massive list of amenities makes this one of the country’s top KOA destinations, and in winter you’ll find most of their seven hundred spaces filled with Canadian snowbirds. Choose from paved 50 amp sites with full hookup ($47–67), cottages or cabins ($65–155), or your basic tent site ($39–50).
With a great location on the Kissimmee River at Lake Okeechobee, the Okee-tantie Recreation Area (863-763-2622), 10430 SR 78, is a county-run facility with 270 sunny RV spaces ($31) and tent sites ($27, no utilities)—limit 2 people and one vehicle—plus a marina with boat rentals, bait and tackle, and ice and groceries.
Zachary Taylor RV Resort (863-763-3377 or 1-888-282-6523; www.campfloridarv.com), 2995 US 441 SE, is a pretty waterfront RV park on Taylor Creek that caters to the 55-and-over crowd with 240 full-hookup sites, screened-in heated swimming pool, and a recreation hall with many planned activities; sites available nightly, weekly, monthly, or for the season, with rates starting at $43 a night.
Everglades Adventures RV & Sailing Resort (1-800-335-6560; www.evergladesadventuresresort.com), 190 N Lake Ave. at the Pahokee Marina, is the only waterfront campground on Lake Okeechobee, where the waves lap right up to your campsite ($27–39) and outside your cabin ($80–140) porch. Drop a line right into the lake!
If you’re looking for a getaway where the live oaks droop low and the Spanish moss waves in the breeze along a cypress-lined waterway, then head to Fisheating Creek Resort (863-675-5999; www.fisheatingcreekresort.com), 7555 US 27 N. This has been a favorite of my friends for years, but it’s had a bad rap due to rowdy campers on the weekends. I’m assured the issue is under control, but weekdays are certainly the quiet days along this lazy creek. RV sites are clustered around a bathhouse/laundry area, with full hookups $20 a night. Primitive tent sites run $15 a night, and the best ones are along the creek, downstream from the camp store. Cabins cost $40 (no bathroom, next to bathhouse) to $65 per night. The livery service runs shuttles and offers canoe rentals (see Paddling).
Park your RV or pitch a tent at South Bay RV Campground (561-992-9045 or 1-877-992-9915), 100 Levee Rd.,off US 27, to relax in a pleasant, open campground surrounded by a series of ponds where you’ll always see wading birds. You’re right at the base of the Herbert Hoover Dike, with quick access for walking, bicycling, or fishing. Rates start at $14.
A classic destination in these parts, Uncle Joe’s Fish Camp (863-983-9421; www.unclejoesfishcamp.com), 2005 Griffin Rd. SE, opened in the 1940s and continues to serve serious anglers and their families with old-time cabins, tent space, and access straight into the lake via a boat ramp—no locks! Nothing fancy here, just serious fishing. Cabins have TV, air-conditioning, and heat and come fully equipped with dishes and linens. Cabins run $59 and up depending on size, tent space $15 a night, and reserved dock space $8 for guests. Laundry and shower room on premises. There is a $5 ramp fee for using their private ramp.
A quiet getaway for the fishing family, the Angler’s Villa Family Fishing Resort (863-763-5060), 3203 SE 29th Ln., is just off the maze of waterways along Taylor Creek. Family owned and operated, this getaway offers a delightful setting under shady oaks. Rentals include fully equipped kitchens and cable TV (three-night minimum, $60 a night, $360 weekly). Heated, screened pool; gas and charcoal grills; and a fish-cleaning bench are on the premises, as well as a boat ramp and boat slips.
Evenings are always hopping at J&S Fish Camp & Tavern (772-597-4455; www.jsfishcamp.com), 9500 SW US 441 S, where the music spills out over the water and onto the highway. This is a fun, funky little Florida fish camp with island style, offering RV sites and tent sites ($18), boat slips, cottages ($70–105, depending on size), and one of the cutest bathhouses I’ve seen. Friendly pets welcome.
Gracious Southern hospitality awaits in the historic elegance of The Clewiston Inn (863-983-8151 or 1-800-749-4466; www.clewistoninn.com), 108 Royal Palm Ave., an outstanding landmark in this rural community. Built in 1938 by the U.S. Sugar Corporation to provide accommodations for business travelers, it’s been at the heart of community functions ever since. Step through the pillars to the elegant Southern lobby into a more genteel era, where it seems utterly appropriate to sip a mint julep in the Everglades Lounge while admiring J. Clinton Shepard’s 1940s oil canvas mural of Everglades wildlife; birders will also appreciate the Audubon prints along the hotel’s hallways. In 2007, the hotel was bought by two private investors who’ve made massive strides in upgrades and renovations to the 57-room complex, bringing modern flair and updated furnishings such as sleigh beds that accent the 1930s feel. Accommodations include standard rooms, suites, and spacious one- and two-bedroom apartments with their own kitchen nooks. Rates start at $99, with discounts for Florida residents. The Colonial Dining Room (see Dining Out) offers Southern-style fine-dining experience with a twist—the new owners have also revived the well-loved menu (and brought back the cook) from an old Clewiston favorite, the Old South Bar-B-Que. The hotel also offers package tours, including ghost tours of the inn, and birding tours of the region.
Pro bass fisherman Roland Martin parlays his fame at Roland Martin’s Lakeside Resort (863-983-3151 or 1-800-473-6766; www.rolandmartinmarina.com), 920 E Del Monte Ave., where spacious rooms provide a good night’s sleep before you hit the lake. Tie up your boat at one of the 130 covered boat slips ($8 per night) or along the lengthy dock; visit the marina store for bait, tackle, or to arrange a fishing guide. RV sites run $35 per night for full hookup. Call for room rates and reservations.
The tiny Aruba Motel is part of the larger Aruba RV Resort (see Campgrounds), with four paneled motel rooms and three suites ($62 and up), each with a small fridge, microwave, and TV. Sit out front and watch the fish jump, or wander a few steps down to the tiki bar. Cash preferred; surcharge for credit card use.
The Lakeport Lodge (863-946-2020), SR 78 and CR 721, caters to anglers and is very busy on weekends. The 24 units include traditional motel rooms ($60) or suites ($70) offering a full kitchen, a living room/lounge area, and linoleum floors to minimize the impact of active outdoor enthusiasts. Smoking is permitted, but not in the bedrooms. The newly reopened Lakeport Restaurant, featuring burgers and steaks, is just steps away.
At Buckhead Ridge, Angler’s Waterfront Motel (863-763-4031; www.guideservice.com), One Sixth St.,just off SR 78, has basic, clean efficiencies and waterfront apartments ($70–80) with parquet floors, showers, and a fridge—just what the busy angler is looking for. Discount for 2 nights or more; guide service on-site.
Under new ownership, the Lakeview Inn & Suites (863-763-1020 or 1-800-754-0428), 3225 US 441 SE, is an economical choice ($39–85) for your Okeechobee stay, featuring 20 rooms—some with kitchenette or full kitchen—and a nook under an arbor along the creek for relaxing, or barbecuing your catch.
Pier II Motel (863-763-8003 or 1-800-874-3744), 2200 US 441 SE, is a former chain motel renovated and now under local management. With enormous rooms, it’s a comfortable place to stay ($70–80).
Where to Eat The casual but elegant Colonial Dining Room at The Clewiston Inn (see Hotels, Motels, and Resorts) has brought back the charm of their original menu with its fine southern cooking, including entrées ($8–20) like buttermilk fried chicken breast, southern style chicken and dumplings, and country style pot roast. They’ve now accentuated it with a second menu, this one resurrecting a long-time favorite, the Old South Bar-B-Que. Having found one of the original cooks from that famed destination restaurant, they’re serving up recipes ($6–25) that are mouthwateringly delicious, including their signature St. Louis ribs, 12-cheese macaroni and cheese (oooh, is that good!), and cornbread that’s as soft as a slice of cake. Brunch served Sun. 11:30 AM–3 PM, all-inclusive luncheon buffet Mon.–Fri. for $9.
Don’s Steak House (863-675-2074), 93 Hall St., is the place for steak in the region, what with all the cattle ranches to the north. Enjoy New York strip, Delmonico, top sirloin, porterhouse, prime rib, even filet mignon ($10 and up), or grab a taste of seafood favorites such as grouper, fried catfish, or fresh Florida frog’s legs. Open for lunch and dinner; children’s menu available.
If it swims, crawls, or hops, they probably serve it at Lightsey’s Seafood Restaurant (863-763-4276), at Okee-tantie Recreation Area (see Campgrounds), where Florida’s marine bounty takes center stage on the menu and you can stare right back at it on the walls and in the aquariums. Enjoy entrées ($12 and up) like Florida lobster stuffed with crabmeat, fresh fried catfish and cooter, or a hefty plate of oysters, and leave room for some delicious pumpkin fry bread.
Even though it’s attached to a gas station, Mrs. Georgia’s Catfish House (561-996-6464), 1400 S Main St., is still worth a stop for dinner if you like your catfish and cole slaw in great big heaps. Dinner can be had for less than $10.
When I hiked into the Swamp Water Café at Billie Swamp Safari (see Attractions) one fine winter day, I was glad that the portions were huge, because they fit my appetite—the massive Indian Taco is made up on Indian fry bread (delightful and calorie-heavy) and loaded with beef, lettuce, tomato, and salsa. I’ve been back several times since and have always been pleased. Open for lunch and dinner, meals $12 and up.
Authentic Mexican shines at the Sunrise Restaurant (941-983-9080), 842 E Sugarland Hwy., where “special plates” of your favorite Mexican dishes run $7 and up, and tacos, tamales, burritos, and more can be bought à la carte. I love their enchiladas, but you may opt for a seafood specialty, including shrimp tacos, frog’s legs, or fried oysters. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
North of Okeechobee, the Pat’s Country Kitchen (863-763-8900), 32601 US 441, is an unassuming block building where you can sit and enjoy classic Clyde Butcher Florida landscape photography while the friendly staff serves up classic Cracker cooking (under $20) such as fried catfish, pork chops, and great homemade pies.
Since 1933, Flora and Ella’s Restaurant (863-675-2891), 550 SR 80 W, has been a fixture in LaBelle. Regulars come all the way from Fort Myers and Naples to enjoy their excellent country cooking and famous to-die-for pies. Their fine Southern cooking ($7 and up) includes such favorites as chicken and dumplings, Country Boy pot roast, catfish, and Hoppin’ John. Yes, you can get okra, grits, and fried green tomatoes here! My dessert was a slide of coconut cream pie and as heavenly fresh and fluffy as it gets; we both gave a nod to one of the best pieces of pecan pie we’ve tasted yet.
New in town but embracing the longstanding rancher culture, Cowboy’s Steak & BBQ (863-467-0321), 102 SW 14th St., holds the Okeechobee image proudly for the world to see. The decor leans heavily on photos and paintings of local ranches and ranch families. Each table is named for a ranching family and decorated with their brand. Now that’s touting OkeechoBEEF! I had a baked potato topped with shredded beef for a light lunch but will sample a hearty steak on my next trip. Lunch and dinner, $6 and up.
The aroma of fresh-baked pizza will draw you right in to Gizmo’s (863-357-2188), 3235 US 441 SE, where their thin-crust pizza is the specialty of the house but their baked, not fried, chicken wings with secret rub are tasty, too. Subs, salads, sandwiches, and dinner specials, $6 and up.
You won’t go wrong with breakfast at Mom’s Kitchen (863-763-7553), 909 S Parrott Ave.—they serve it all day, they serve it up fast, and they serve it with grits if you like, all starting around $4. Choose from more than a dozen types of omelets, or have homemade biscuits and gravy. Open for lunch and dinner, too.
Named for the first sheriff of this frontier region, Pogey’s Restaurant (863-763-7222), 1759 S Parrott Ave., is a good family restaurant with breakfast worth stopping for; most choices are less than $10. I like the French toast, but their specialty is biscuits with sausage gravy.
A surprising find in the strip mall near Publix, Pueblo Viejo VI (863-357-9641), 3415 US 441 S, does a fine job of authentic Mexican dishes. The entrée ($9–16) portions are enormous, whether you order a simple combination dinner with enchiladas, tacos, or chile relleno, or go for one of their chef’s specials like steak Tampiqueña (skirt steak and chicken enchilada) or Mojarra Frita (whole fried tilapia with pico de gallo and avocados). Savor it with a good margarita from their full bar.
Mister Jelly Roll’s Coffee Shop (561-924-0000), 129 Lake Ave., isn’t just for java—it’s the local hangout for scrumptious Mexican meals and general gossip and is named after a popular local character. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
If you want a great steak, don’t look for a steakhouse—Happy Hour (863-467-6420), a tavern along US 441 at Upthegrove Beach, has the best steaks in the region. Honest. We took a tip from a local and discovered the best value for your money in an honest-to-goodness great steak. No frills, just basic sides and perfect beef for $8 and up. Open for dinner Mon.–Sat.
COFFEE SHOPS AND SODA FOUNTAINS Kick back and relax at Common Grounds (863-902-9889), 104 Bond St., Clewiston, a downtown street-corner café serving breakfast treats, soup and salad, and fresh tea and coffee.
Don’t miss Gimme the Scoop (863-946-2663), 699 NW US 27, in Moore Haven, for a sweet treat as you drive through ranching country.
PRODUCE STANDS In Okeechobee, The Market Place (863-467-6639), 3600 US 441, offers farm fresh produce and a weekend flea market.
EntertainmentRestored by the Mann family, Mann’s Clewiston Theatre (863-983-6494), 100 E Sugarland Hwy., Clewiston, dates from 1941 and still shows first-run films in a great historic setting with a classic old refreshment stand in the lobby. Open Thurs.–Sun.; call for times.
Selective ShoppingBond Street downtown is the shopping district, with boutiques, a coffeehouse, and more. I’ve found plenty of goodies at Second Chance Boutique and Gifts (863-983-8865), 113 Bond St., where they have great prices on antique glassware and newer decor items.
At Roland Martin’s Lakeside Resort (see Hotels, Motels, and Resorts), the Marina Store is one of the best places in town to shop. Sure, you can buy bait, but why not a tie-dyed T-shirt for the kids? They carry sportswear from Columbia and Fresh Produce, Guy Harvey T-shirts, Hawaiian shirts, and even hula dancer and tiki salt and pepper shakers.
You’ll find a bevy of unique items at Country Peddler Antiques (863-675-3822), 265 N Bridge St.—when I poked around, I came up with a traveling pulpit for circuit preachers, Noritake china, and an elaborately gilded clock amid primitives and glassware.
I know of no other honey outlet in Florida, so make a beeline to Harold P. Curtis Honey Co. (863-675-2187 or 1-888-531-9097; http://curtishoney.hypermart.net), Bridge St., in the historic downtown district. It’s a store-front for a family business that dates from 1921. You’ve heard of orange blossom honey, but how about palmetto and mangrove? In addition to honey and honey products, they have beautiful beeswax candles for sale, too.
Park Avenue is the historic downtown district just steps away from the chamber of commerce, where you’ll find a handful of antiques shops and boutiques. Among them are The Outpost (863-763-7255), 330 Park Ave., a sportswear shop with Columbia, Quicksilver, and Roxy, as well as surf-related hats and sandals.
The oldest flea market in the region, Cypress Hut Flea Market, 4701 US 441 N, is a giant garage sale with everything including the kitchen sink—even fine antiques, sterling jewelry, and fine leather.
Along US 441, the massive Trading Post Flea Market (863-763-4114) is a popular draw on weekends (8 AM–3 PM), with both new cheapie items and vintage treasures on display.
Special EventsJanuary: Battle of Okeechobee Reenactment (www.okeechobeebattlefield.com) Okeechobee, last weekend, near Kings Bay along US 441 SE. On Christmas Day 1837, the Seminoles, led by their medicine man Abiaka, ambushed a unit of U.S. Army soldiers led by Col. Zachary Taylor. The fighting raged for three hours, and more than a hundred men fell. This battle was a turning point that dubbed Taylor “Old Rough and Ready” and drove the Seminoles deep into the Everglades for nearly a century. The reenactment captures both sides of the story.
SANDHILL CRANES IN OKEECHOBEE
Sandra Friend
Pucker up at the Sour Orange Festival, Lakeport Community Center.
February: Cane Grinding Festival (863-946-0440), Ortona, first weekend. An old-fashioned sugarcane grind and boil held at Ortona Indian Mound Park (see Archaeological Sites), with music and food, too.
Since 1959, the Speckled Perch Festival (863-763-6464; www.okeechobeechamberofcommerce.com/speckledperch.htm) has been a celebration of fishing for one of Lake Okeechobee’s most notable species. Held early Feb.
Swamp Cabbage Festival (863-675-0125), LaBelle, last weekend. Celebrate “hearts of palm” at riverfront Barron Park with food, music, and crafts.
Top of the Lake Art Fest (www.mainstreetokeechobee.com/arts_culture.htm), a new festival sponsored by Okeechobee Main Street, brings the arts to the lake with a juried fine art show and artist booths in the city parks along SR 70.
March: Chalo Nitka Festival (863-946-0440), Moore Haven, first weekend. “Day of the Bass” in Seminole, this long-time heritage festival celebrates the convergence of Seminole and ranching cultures along Lake Okeechobee, and is held at Chalo Nitka Park on 10th St., with Seminole crafts and food and a parade as well as local entertainers.
April: Black Gold Jubilee (561-996-2745), Belle Glade, third weekend, brings in artists, musicians, and a crafts fair to celebrate the end of the harvest from the rich, dark earth that gives sugarcane and vegetables grown here their sweet flavor.
Spanning sites in Glades and Hendry counties, the Big O Birding Festival (www.bigobirdingfestival.com) includes four days of exploration and workshops in a region well-known for its excellent birding for rare birds best seen in this region, such as the Everglades snail kite and the crested caracara. Fee.
Clewiston Sugar Festival (863-983-7979), Clewiston, third Saturday, is a celebration of the end of the sugarcane harvest with entertainment, food, and crafts.
September: Okeechobee Cattlemen’s Rodeo (863-763-6464), at the Cattlemen’s Rodeo Arena, US 441 N. Held annually on Labor Day weekend, the rodeo brings in the cowmen from the ranches surrounding Okeechobee to showcase their riding and roping skills.
November: Big O Hike (1-877-HIKE-FLA; www.floridatrail.org), Thanksgiving week. Since 1992, a group of hikers from the Florida Trail Association have walked around the lake on a 109-mile series of nine-day hikes each year, with designated group camping and social activities along the way.
MONARCH BUTTERFLY ATOP THE HERBERT HOOVER DIKE
Sandra Friend
