To SeeWhen you hear the name Indian River, it’s synonymous with citrus—and indeed, thousands of acres in the western half of the county are devoted to immaculate rows of grapefruit, orange, and other tangy fruits. But the earliest pioneers to this region found it to be a jungle, hard to pull a wagon through, and mostly underwater. In 1887 Henry T. Gifford and his family came to the bluffs of the Indian River Narrows to build their homestead. Within a few years, enough settlers joined them to petition for a post office, and Henry’s wife, Sara, submitted the name “Vero,” the Latin word for “truth.” By November 1891, not only was there a post office, but Indian River County was carved out of neighboring Brevard and St. Lucie Counties. Mr. Gifford was behind the effort to build a road between Sebastian and Fort Pierce, which was dubbed the Dixie Highway. The Florida East Coast Railroad, Henry Flagler’s rail line, began service through the county in 1893, providing citrus growers and fishermen fast shipping to northern markets.
When Waldo Sexton came to Vero in the early 1920s, he—like many other speculators in Florida’s land boom—saw opportunity. An agricultural specialist from Purdue University in Indiana, he created the first dairy in the county and shipped out products in his refrigerator trucks, involved himself in citrus growing and packing, and established a real estate firm to draw northern investors south. He built the Driftwood Inn, a rambling two-story hotel in Vero Beach. Sexton took advantage of the tumbling fortunes of his neighbors in Palm Beach, buying up artworks and property for a song during the depression. He joined with Arthur McKee, to open the McKee Jungle Gardens, a revitalized tourist draw even today. Marshlands were drained for agriculture and housing residents poured in, and the population increased from 793 to 2,226 in 1930.
Today, this lightly populated, conservative county continues to hum along on a base of agriculture and light industry, its visitors mostly interested in the outdoors. They are attracted to the coast for the gentle beaches and great fishing and birding along the Indian River Lagoon, and to the marshy beginnings of the St. Johns River by the beauty of dense forests, cypress strands, and wide-open marshes. As you drive down US 1 toward Sebastian, notice the banana trees growing wild along the Indian River Lagoon—a reminder of an agricultural past that continues to be a strong anchor for this community today.
GUIDANCE For more information on the area, get in touch with the Indian River Chamber of Commerce (772-567-3491; www.indianriverchamber.com), 1216 21st St., Vero Beach 32960.
GETTING THERE By car: Use I-95 or US 1 to reach Fellsmere, Sebastian, Vero Beach, and Oslo. SR 60 connects Florida’s Turnpike with Vero Beach.
By air: Melbourne International Airport (321-723-6227; www.mlbair.com), One Air Terminal Parkway, is the closest airport to the region, offering commuter flights daily on Delta. The region is also within range of Palm Beach International Airport (see North Palm Beach County).
GETTING AROUND By car: A car is necessary for visiting the county unless your destination is Vero Beach, where there is a lot to see and do within walking distance of hotels. Most services are along US 1 and SR A1A, and along SR 60 in Vero Beach.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES For emergencies head to Indian River Memorial Hospital (561-567-4311), 1000 36th St., Vero Beach.
To SeeFellsmere was the vision of E. Nelson Fell, who in 1910 bought 118,000 acres from the railroad land company to create several cities. Fellsmere is the only one that has survived and thrived, in part due to having its own railroad that ensured shipment of citrus from surrounding farms to the Florida East Coast Railroad in Sebastian. Downtown Fellsmere is small and walkable, and its many historic sites include the 1913 City Hall, 1916 Fellsmere School, several churches, the 1915 Fellsmere Inn, and the 1920s land office, now home of the Marsh Landing restaurant (see Eating Out).
Stop in at the 1916 Grant Historical House & Fisherman’s Park (321-723-8543), 5795 US 1, to see a restored pioneer Cracker home that is the centerpiece of this wayside park along the Indian River Lagoon. The home is open for tours 10–4 Tues.–Fri.; the park is open daily sunrise–sunset and has a walking trail, riverfront boardwalk, and fishing dock.
A hurricane in July 1715 sunk an entire flotilla of Spanish galleons loaded with gold and silver just off the coast of Sebastian Inlet. Nearly 1,500 men made it to shore and made camp at the inlet until they were rescued. Years later, the Spanish returned to the camp to attempt to raise some of their treasure and return it to Spain. The Spanish Fleet Survivors and Salvors Camp is on the National Register of Historic Places and is located inside Sebastian Inlet State Park (see Beaches).
Renowned for the treasures he recovered from the 1622 wreck of the Atocha off Key West, Mel Fisher is considered a giant in the field of treasure hunting. Stop in at Mel Fisher’s Treasure Museum (772-589-9875), 1322 US 1, to see artifacts from the Atocha and from the 1715 Spanish fleet that sank off the coast between Sebastian Inlet and Fort Pierce. Open 10 AM–5 PM Mon.–Sat., noon–5 PM Sun. General admission is $6.50, children 6–12 $2, adults 55 and older $5, free for children age 5 and younger.
At Sebastian Inlet State Park (see Beaches), the McLarty Treasure Museum (772-589-2147), 13180 SR A1A, focuses on artifacts recovered from the shipwrecked Spanish fleet of 1715, found along the Treasure Coast. The movie Treasure: What Dreams Are Made Of explains modern-day salvage efforts. Open 10–4:30 daily; small fee. 
Also inside the park, the Sebastian Fishing Museum (772-388-2750), on the south side of the Sebastian Inlet Bridge, covers the long history of the region’s fishing industry, with replicas of a fish house and dock, and a 24-minute video on the Indian River Lagoon. Open 10 AM–4 PM; free with park admission.
Inside the historic 1935 Vero Beach Community Building, dedicated in 1935, the Indian River Citrus Museum (772-770-2263), 2140 14th Ave., explores the history of citrus growing in the region, from the Spanish explorers who first brought orange trees to Florida to today’s high-tech processing and packing. Archives, artifacts, and guided citrus tours are all part of the experience. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Fri. Donations appreciated.
Considered the largest facility of its kind on the Treasure Coast, the Vero Beach Museum of Art (772-231-0707; www.verobeachmuseum.org), 3001 Riverside Park Dr., offers four art galleries, a sculpture park, an art library, museum store, and numerous spaces for seminars and classes, including an outdoor foundry. Objects from the museum’s permanent collection are rotated through several of the galleries; the Schumann Florida Gallery showcases Florida art. Classes are offered to the public on a regular basis. Open 10 AM–4:30 PM Mon.–Sat., 1 PM–4:30 PM Sun. Closed on Mondays June through August. Some exhibitions are free, others require a fee.
TURTLE WELCOMES YOU TO VERO BEACH
Trish Riley
Indian River County Historical Society Office, Museum and Exhibit Center (www.irchistorical.org) includes the following three attractions, all of which are listed on the National Historic Register.
Built in 1903, the former Florida East Coast Railroad Station is now the Vero Beach Railroad Station Exhibit Center (772-778-3435), 2336 14th Ave. Stop in and see their permanent model-railroad display showcasing a journey through Indian River County. The railroad runs through a scale replica of Indian River County from the previous century. Open 10 AM–4 PM Wed.–Fri. Donations suggested.
The Hallstrom Farmstead, 1723 SW Old Dixie Hwy. (772-778-3435), a museum showcasing the farming lifestyle in this area from the early 1900s. Open 9 AM–1 PM Tues. and by scheduled tour. $5 donation.
Historical Marian Fell Library, 63 N. Cypress St., Fellsmere (772-571-0068), is a one-room library built in 1915. Mon.–Fri., 1 PM–5 PM, donations appreciated.
To DoBIRDING Don’t-miss birding sites in the county include Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge (see Preserves), with its nesting colony of brown pelicans; Fort Drum Marsh Conservation Area (see Wild Places), where sandhill cranes and crested caracara are commonly sighted; and Blue Cypress Conservation Area (see Wild Places), with foraging and nesting habitat for the snail kite. Many of the islands of the Indian River Lagoon are rookeries or roosts for colonial nesting birds such as herons, pelicans, and ibis, so a cruise along the waterway at dusk or dawn will yield spectacular sightings.
BOATING Cruising the Indian River Lagoon is a favorite pastime of locals. If you’ve brought your own, you can anchor in deep-water slips at the Sebastian River Marina & Boatyard (772-664-3029), 8525 N US 1, Sebastian, a full-service marina, or pull in at the City Marina at Marker 139 (772-978-4960), 3611 Rio Vista Blvd. in Vero Beach; make reservations 48 hours in advance.
FISHING Saltwater or freshwater—your choice! Sebastian Inlet is a popular location where king mackerel, snapper, and grouper hang out around the jetties. If you hook up with a local captain for a deep-sea trip, expect to find wahoo, tuna, and marlin well offshore. Check in at Captain Hiram’s (see Eating Out) to book an excursion with Surfrider Charters (321-917-4384). Inland, Blue Cypress Lake (see Wild Places) is known for its largemouth bass and black crappie, and Stick Marsh, a reservoir in the northwest corner of the county, has been named one of the Top 10 black bass lakes by the Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission.
HIKING While many of the county’s trails are multiuse, there are several gems that are “hiking only” and well worth a morning’s walk. Start with Oslo Riverfront Conservation Area (see Preserves) for a meander through the “jungle” that the early pioneers encountered. For more adventure head out to Fort Drum Marsh Conservation Area (see Wild Places), which has a beautiful boardwalk through a cypress dome and an often-challenging walk around Hog Island, a somewhat dry spot otherwise surrounded by the marshes from which the St. Johns River rises. And even if you’re traveling without children, don’t miss the Environmental Learning Center (see Nature Centers) at Wabasso Island, with its many boardwalks and short trails.
PADDLING Ply saltwater or freshwater with Tropical Kayak Tours (772-778-3044; www.tropicalkayaktours.com), where avid kayaker Ronda Good leads you on an adventure into the tropical heart of Indian River County. Her broad slate of tours includes numerous local destinations such as Blue Cypress Lake and the Sebastian River; tours of the Indian River start at $45. Call or e-mail (info@tropicalkayaktours.com) to arrange reservations; lunch is provided on some of the trips.
Green SpaceSpanning two counties across one of the Indian River Lagoon’s major inlets, Sebastian Inlet State Park (321-984-4852; www.floridastateparks.org/SebastianInlet/), 9700 S SR A1A, is a popular destination for surfers and anglers. A1A runs right through the park, which includes the beach and fishing pier, a full-service campground, a nature trail, and the McLarty Treasure Museum (see Museums). Park admission is $3 per person or $5 for 2 to 8 people in a vehicle. Separate $1 fee for McLarty Museum. Fee for boat ramp area is $3.
There are several oceanfront public parks along this strand, stretching from Golden Sands Beach Park (772-581-4995), 1.4 miles north of CR 510, to Round Island Beach Park (772-492-2412), south of Beachland Blvd. Most provide restrooms and showers, picnic tables and grills, a playground and lifeguards. Free.
Treasure Shores Beach Park, further north on AIA (772-581-4997), also has a lifeguard.
BOTANICAL GARDEN When I was a kid, it was a natural attraction called McKee Jungle Gardens that had been around since 1929. A victim of the Disney era, it closed its doors in 1976, and most of the land was sold to developers. But 18 acres of the original garden remained, and local enthusiasts rallied to save it. Reopened in 2001 as the McKee Botanical Garden (772-794-0601; www.mckeegarden.org), 350 US 1, Vero Beach, this beautiful subtropical hammock bursts with brilliant natural color in every season. A botanical reference library is on-site. Open 10 AM–5 PM Tues.–Sat., noon–5 PM Sun. Fee for non-members.
NATURE CENTER 
Kids will love all there is to see and do at the 64-acre Environmental Learning Center (772-589-5050; http://discoverelc.org), 255 Live Oak Dr., Wabasso Island, with its hands-on interpretive stations along nature trails snaking through a variety of near-shore habitats, from coastal hammock to mangrove fringe. The Welcome Center has exhibits and a gift shop; pick up a map here to begin your exploration of the campus, which hides such goodies as the waterside pavilion for picnics, a tiki hut, a dry lab, a butterfly garden, a greenhouse, a native plant garden, and much more. Three-hour canoe trips on the Indian River Lagoon are offered every other Saturday morning (call for reservations). To reach the nature center, exit from CR 510 from the causeway onto Wabasso Island and drive north. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Fri., 9 AM–noon Sat. (until 4 in winter), 1 PM–4 PM Sun. Free; donations appreciated. Fee for canoe trips.
ALONG THE BEACH AT ORCHID ISLAND
Sandra Friend
In bits and pieces over 20 miles of coastline along SR A1A from Melbourne Beach to Wabasso Beach, Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge (772-562-3909 x275; www.fws.gov/archiecarr) protects the most significant sea turtle nesting ground in the United States. More than 25 percent of all loggerhead sea turtles and 35 percent of all green sea turtles return to this shoreline to nest. Named for University of Florida zoologist and conservationist Archie Carr, the refuge seeks to protect a total of 900 acres of coastal scrub and untrammeled beachfront for sea turtle nesting. Visitors are welcome to enter at adjacent beachfront park access points and walk the shoreline; turtle nests are marked—don’t disturb them and don’t disturb any nesting turtles you might encounter.
At Sebastian Inlet State Park, 9700 South A1A, Melbourne Beach, free guided sea turtle walks are offered in June and July, 9–midnight; advance reservations required (recommended up to a month in advance; phone 321-984-4852). Bring water, comfortable shoes and clothes, and bug repellent.
In 1903 President Theodore Roosevelt dedicated Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge (772-562-3909 x275; www.fws.gov/pelicanisland), SR A1A, 3.5 miles north of CR 510, as a preserve for a breeding colony of endangered brown pelicans, creating the nation’s first National Wildlife Refuge. The preserve now encompasses 500 acres of impoundments along the Indian River Lagoon as well as 2.2-acre Pelican Island, which can be seen from an observation tower at the end of the Centennial Trail. The trail was the first of new visitor improvements added for the preserve’s centennial. (Previously, birders had to visit by boat.) Two multiuse trails loop 2.5 miles each around the impoundments, perfect for a bike ride or a long walk, where, on my very first visit, I saw roseate spoonbills in the trees. The Centennial Trail is wheelchair accessible and another great birding spot. Open 7:30 AM–sunset daily. Free.
Protecting 336 acres along the Indian River Lagoon, Oslo Riverfront Conservation Area (561-778-7200), Oslo Rd., just east of US 1, is a haven for botanical diversity, with some of the tallest wild coffee you’ll ever see and more than 20 rare species of plants, including Simpson’s stopper, coral-root orchid, and whisk fern. Bromeliads grow densely on every tree in the hammock. Three miles worth of nature trails wind through the preserve, leading you to surprises such as an overlook on a mangrove-lined lagoon and to a historic coquina quarry. Open sunrise–sunset daily; free. Informative guided walks are offered Wednesday and Sunday at 9 AM; meet at the park entrance.
With nearly 22,000 acres straddling the C-54 canal and waterfront along the St. Sebastian River, St. Sebastian River Preserve State Park (321-953-5004; www.floridastateparks.org/stsebastian/default.cfm), 1000 Buffer Preserve Dr., spills across Brevard and Indian River Counties and offers outdoor activities that include nearly 60 miles of equestrian trails with primitive campsites, overlooks on the canal for manatee watching,, and nature trails. A visitors center (open 10 AM–4:30 PM Fri.–Sun., 8 AM–5 PM Mon.–Fri.) is located off CR 507 north of Fellsmere.
Protecting 54,000 acres along the chain of lakes that is the lower St. Johns River, Blue Cypress Conservation Area (321-676-6614) has access points off Blue Cypress Lake Rd. and CR 507 north of SR 60. Most folks come here for the fishing, but you can launch a canoe or kayak and experience what Florida looked like centuries ago along these cypress-lined waterways. Access to miles of levees for birding is best from Blue Cypress Recreation Area off CR 507, where there are also several primitive campsites.
SEA TURTLE NEST
Sandra Friend
An excellent place for birding, Fort Drum Marsh Conservation Area (321-676-6614 or 386-329-4404), 9.2 miles east of Florida’s Turnpike Yeehaw Junction exit along SR 60, is a 21,000-acre wilderness that encompasses the headwaters of the St. Johns River. Birders might see crested caracara, sandhill cranes, wood storks, bald eagles, or wild turkey. White-tailed deer and feral hogs are also common here. The preserve offers a day’s worth of walking along the levees, as well as two developed hiking trails with primitive campsites; the Hog Island Trail has a gorgeous boardwalk bridging the “mainland” with Hog Island through a mysterious cypress swamp. The preserve also offers fishing, canoeing, bicycling, and seasonal hunting. Free. Located between State Road (SR) 60 and the Florida Turnpike, approximately 20 miles west of Vero Beach. Access from I-95, exit at SR 60, go west on SR 60 to the “20-Mile Bend.” Access is located 10.9 miles west of County Road 512 and 10 miles east of Yeehaw Junction.
LodgingCAMPGROUNDS If you have a boat or canoe, bring a tent and sufficient fresh water and claim one of the hundreds of uninhabited islands in the Indian River Lagoon as your own for the night; leave-no-trace rules apply. For details contact Sebastian Inlet State Park (772-589-9659), 9700 S SR A1A, Melbourne Beach. Fees for parking and boat launching.
Landlubbers can head to one of the sites at Sebastian Inlet State Park (see Beaches) Book sites through 1-800-326-3521.
Settle into the island mood at Captain Hiram’s Resort (772-388-8588; www.hirams.com), 1580 US 1, part of a tropical resort complex along the Indian River Lagoon at Marker 66. Adding to the relaxed atmosphere, there’s a room to please everyone—from motel rooms to Jacuzzi suites to mini suites with wet bars, $120 and up.
A quiet, old-fashioned place, the San-drift Motel (772-589-4546), 14415 US 1, has basic motel rooms and efficiencies, at reasonable rates ($55–75). You’ll appreciate the sparkling pool and the Marker I restaurant just a few steps away.
Adding a little Miami chic to quiet, conservative Vero Beach, Gloria Estefan, a part-time resident of the area, opened the new $50 million hotel, Costa d’Este Beach Resort (772-562-9919; www.costadeste.com), 3244 Ocean Dr. Modern and stylish, the resort offers 90 guest rooms and four suites ($189–479), and Oriente (772-410-0100), a Cuban restaurant and bar.
The Driftwood Inn (772-231-0550; www.thedriftwood.com), 3150 Ocean Dr., is the same beachfront hotel built by Waldo Sexton in 1935 and includes an oceanfront restaurant, the Ocean Grill. Now a time-share resort, hotel rooms are still available ($90–120).
The Caribbean Court Hotel (772-231-7211; www.thecaribbeancourt.com), 1605 Ocean Dr., is a tropical-themed, pet friendly hotel across Ocean Drive from the beach. Rooms decorated with antiques ($139–239) complement the French cuisine at the hotel restaurant, Maison Martinique.
COSTA D’ESTE HOTEL, VERO BEACH
Trish Riley
With a tropical setting and wrought-iron balcony railings, the Sea Turtle Inn (772-234-0788 or 1-877-998-8785; www.seaturtleinn.net), 835 Azalea Ln., offers a comfortable home away from home, just steps from the Ocean Drive shopping district and the beach. Accommodations include efficiencies and poolside apartments ($99–215).
Where to EatExcellent food and an oceanfront view—what more can you ask for? The Ocean Grill (772-231-5409; www.ocean-grill.com), 1050 Sexton Plaza, is relaxing and satisfying. Dating from 1949, the restaurant sports unique decor with pioneer Waldo Sexton’s imprint. Sexton, earning a good living as a citrus agriculturalist, took advantage of the depression to gather up priceless antiques at Palm Beach auctions, offering rolls of silver dollars for leftovers at auction’s end. Not a bad strategy for anyone left with money during the current era! Each evening, several fresh catches are offered, broiled, Cajun, grilled, or fried. Roast duckling is a house favorite; other specialties include the coquilles St. Jacques, creamy and brimming with mushrooms and crab. Dinner with a glass of wine from their extensive list will set you back $30–50 a person, but the experience is well worth it. In between lunch and dinner, bar patrons can enjoy a tasty bleu cheese dip with crackers and beer.
Oriente (772-410-0100), at the Costa d’Este Beach Resort, 3244 Ocean Dr., brings owner Gloria Estefan’s native Cuban cuisine to Vero Beach along with live music a few nights each week. Sample ropa veija, braised skirt steak with tomatoes and sofrito (a spicy blend of peppers), or ceviche vegetariano, grilled hearts of palm, baby bella mushroom, with asparagus, avocado, pico de gallo (fresh salsa), with oregano citrus dressing. Sip Cuban coffee or mojitos at the daily happy hour (4:30–6:30 PM). Reservations recommended.
Worth driving out of your way for, Marsh Landing (772-571-8622), 44 N Broadway St., is a classic Florida Cracker restaurant serving up swamp cabbage, fried green tomatoes, and “swamp critters” such as gator, frog’s legs, and catfish. You can’t miss this historic building in downtown—it was the land office during the 1920s boom. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily; entrées $10 and up.
When on the sea, eat more seafood! Captain Hiram’s Restaurant (772-589-4345; www.captainhirams.com), 1606 N Indian River Dr., offers a delectable selection of the finest around, from fresh oysters to half-pound broiled lobster tail to “angry” Dungeness crab and crab-stuffed baked shrimp. You won’t go away hungry! Landlubbers can enjoy char-grilled rib eye and jerked chicken breast; there’s a kid’s menu, too. Serving lunch and dinner; entrées $13–25.
From its humble beginning as an ice cream parlor in 1945, the Patio Restaurant (772-563-2844), 1103 21st St., has become one of the best-loved landmarks in Vero Beach. The stunning wrought iron and tile throughout the restaurant is centuries old and was imported from Europe by Addison Mizner, the architect renowned for his work throughout Palm Beach. And what’s the connection? Credit Waldo Sexton, the restaurant’s founder and 1920s boom developer, for piling up “old discards” such as tiles and chandeliers from various ritzy buildings in “the patio.” These pieces were incorporated into the restaurant’s decor in 1959. The restaurant was closed and renovated in 2008. Light and color play through the stained-glass panels above the French doors. It is a place to savor dinner, to enjoy the experience. The menu focuses on fresh local seafood and prime cuts of steak ($8 and up), but there are also pizzas, pastas, and Sunday brunch with mimosas for $20.
Dockside Grille (772-569-6865), 41 Palm Pointe, offers a lunch and dinner of seafood, burgers, and steaks from $8 and up.
Selective ShoppingAn array of eclectic gifts, perhaps mirroring the art collection on display from the town’s founder, is available in the gift shop of the Ocean Grill restaurant, 1050 Sexton Plaza.
A stroll away, you’ll find fine men’s wear at G.T. Rhodes (772-231-6424, www.gtrhodes.com), 1008 Beachland Blvd., and around the corner a lady’s “chic boutique,” at Blondies on the Ocean (772-231-4444), 3300 Ocean Dr.
If you’re looking for that perfect kayak, look no further than Indian River Kayak & Canoe (772-569-5757; www.paddleflorida.com), 3435 Aviation Blvd., one of the largest paddle-sports outfitters on the Atlantic Coast, with “demo days” the first Sunday of each month.
With an extensive selection of children’s books housed in a separate building with a teen reading loft (772-569-6650), the Vero Beach Book Center (772-569-2050; www.verobeachbookcenter.com), 2145 Indian River Blvd., is one of the larger independent bookstores in the state and stocks an excellent array of new books for grown-ups, too. Author events are frequent and feature top Florida authors. If you’re a bibliophile, you won’t want to miss this store!
