In the late 1800s, more than 20 small settlements existed along the Treasure Coast, and it’s along those same barrier islands and the Indian River Lagoon that you’ll find the beauty of St. Lucie County. Named by Spanish explorers in the 1560s, the region was once populated by the Ais and Jeaga, indigenous hunters and gatherers whose people eventually died off after exposure to European illnesses. During the Second Seminole War in the 1830s, the First Artillery chose a high bluff about 4 miles south of the inlet to build a blockhouse they called Fort Pierce, in honor of their commander. The city of Fort Pierce is one of the oldest on Florida’s South Atlantic coast, incorporated in 1901. Once known for its fisheries and pineapple farms, Fort Pierce evolved into one of Florida’s 1920s boomtowns, which its architecture showcases today after successful downtown redevelopment efforts.
Once an outpost of unspoiled beaches and quiet villages, St. Lucie County has exploded in population growth over the past decade, changing the face that visitors see—especially along Florida’s Turnpike and I-95 around Port St. Lucie. Where citrus groves and pine forests once stretched to the horizon, now there are residential communities. The western part of the county is still citrus and ranching country. Called the “Grapefruit Capital of the World,” the county still leads all others in Florida in citrus production.
GUIDANCE St. Lucie County Tourism (1-800-344-TGIF; www.visitstluciefla.com), 2300 Virginia Ave., Fort Pierce 34982, and the St. Lucie County Chamber of Commerce (772-468-9152; www.StLucieChamber.org), 482 N. Indian River Dr., Fort Pierce 34950, and 1850 Fountainview Blvd., Port St. Lucie 34986 (772-340-1333), can provide more information about the area.
ARCHITECTURAL DETAIL AT FORT PIERCE
Trish Riley
GETTING THERE By car: Use I-95 or US 1 to reach Fort Pierce, St. Lucie, Port St. Lucie, and Jensen Beach. SR 70 connects Florida’s Turnpike with Fort Pierce.
By air: Palm Beach International Airport (see North Palm Beach County) is the closest major airport.
GETTING AROUND By car: A car is necessary for visiting the county. Most services are along US 1 and SR A1A, and along SR 70 in Fort Pierce.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES In Fort Pierce head for Lawnwood Regional Medical Center (772-220-6866; www.lawnwoodmed.com), 1700 S 23rd St. In Port St. Lucie your nearest emergency room is at St. Lucie Medical Center (772-335-1405; www.stluciemed.com), 1800 SE Tiffany Ave.
To SeeARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES At Spruce Bluff Preserve (772-462-2526; www.stlucieco.gov/erd/spruce-bluff/ais.htm), Peru St. and Dar Ln., Port St. Lucie, follow the Ais Mound Trail to discover a midden from the ancient Ais culture of southeast Florida. The mound is 20 feet high and nearly 180 feet in diameter and is now topped with large trees.
ART GALLERIES Founded in 1961, The A. E. “Bean” Backus Gallery (772-465-0630; www.backusgallery.com), 500 N Indian River Dr., Fort Pierce, focuses on the work of Backus, whose lush impressionist Florida landscapes (1940s–1960s) captured the wild nature of the state’s rugged beauty. Backus had many students over the years, and Alfred Hair, a talented African American protégé, brought Backus’s inspiration to a group of fellow landscape painters now honored as the Highwaymen, who sold their impressionist landscapes out of the backs of their cars. Perched on the banks of the Indian River Lagoon, the 4,000-square-foot gallery showcases a portion of their permanent collection of Backus’s work, plus several galleries displaying the works of other Florida artists. The gallery is open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Sat., noon–4 PM Sun., except during the summer months, when visits are by appointment. Free.
BASEBALL Spring training heats up in late February when the New York Mets arrive at Tradition Field Stadium (772-871-2115; www.traditionfield.com), 525 NW Peacock Blvd., Port St. Lucie, their 100-acre facility with a 7,300-seat stadium. The minor league St. Lucie Mets take the field in early April. Call ahead for tickets or buy them online.
HISTORIC SITES Downtown Fort Pierce boasts a broad range of classic Florida architecture, from Cracker homes to late-19th-century revival businesses and Spanish Mission buildings from the 1920s. Stop at the visitors center located in the 1910 Seven Gable House, 482 Indian River Dr., to pick up walking-tour information. In 1875 the P. P. Cobb Building, 408 N Indian River Dr., served as one of the first trading posts along the Cracker Trail. This cypress-sided building is still used for retail businesses today. Built in 1925, the historic City Hall, 315 Ave. A, was in use until 1972; preservationists saved it from the wrecking ball, and it is now used for banquet rentals and office space. Visited by stars of the silver screen such as Sally Rand and Tom Mix, the 1923 Sunrise Theatre (772-461-4775; www.sunrisetheatre.com), 210 S Depot Dr., was once the largest vaudeville theater on Florida’s east coast. After extensive renovations, it recently reopened as the Theatre for the Performing Arts with regularly scheduled shows. The city itself was named after Fort Pierce, built by the U.S. Army during the Second Seminole War on the high bluff overlooking the Indian River Lagoon; a historic plaque at the site is all that remains to commemorate the spot. While passing through the historic center of town, a mix today of crumbling residences and sparkling Mediterranean architecture, I spotted a flock of peacocks strutting across the road as if they owned the town.
Explore the region’s maritime past at the St. Lucie County Historical Museum (772-462-1795; www.stlucieco.gov), 414 Seaway Dr., where the wreck of the 1715 Spanish fleet comes alive in the Galleon Room, brimming with replicas of gold and silver coins, pottery and household items. In addition to the important Harry Hill photographic collection, which documents St. Lucie County between the 1880s and 1920s, the museum has a fire house with antique engines, a Seminole encampment, artifacts from the original Fort Pierce, and a 1907 settler’s home. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Sat. Fee.
In the birthplace of the navy demolition teams, where better a museum to honor them? The National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum (772-595-5845; www.navysealmuseum.com), 3300 N SR A1A, recounts the courage and history of navy frogmen, SEALS, and underwater demolition teams through well-interpreted artifacts and timeline based exhibits. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Sat., noon–4 PM Sun.; also Mon. 10 AM–4 PM Jan.–Apr. Fee $6 adults, $3 children ages 6–12. Free for members, group rates available.
To DoBOATING Located downtown, the Fort Pierce City Marina (772-464-1245 or 1-800-619-1780; www.fortpiercecitymarina.com), One Ave. A, offers about 150 slips on the Indian River Lagoon, with fishing and sailing charters available dockside.
PEACOCKS STRUTTING THROUGH FORT PIERCE
Trish Riley
DIVING Dixie Divers Southeast Diving Institute (561-461-4488), 1717 S US 1, Fort Pierce, offers a full range of dive classes, including dive master. Certified scuba divers will want to head for Fort Pierce Inlet State Park (see Beaches), 905 Shorewinds Dr., Fort Pierce (772-468-3985), to check out a reef just 100 yards from the beach; diver-down flag required. Dive Odyssea (772-460-1771), 621 N Second St., Fort Pierce, for fresh air and instructions on where best to charter a boat and head to the offshore reefs and wrecks.
DRIVING TOURS Celebrating the life of one of Florida’s most important folk-lorists, the new Zora Neale Hurston “Dust Tracks” Heritage Trail starts at the Zora Neale Hurston Branch Library, 3008 Ave. D, Fort Pierce, and leads you on a journey through the novelist’s many connections to Fort Pierce. There are eight stops along the way, with detailed interpretive information. Trail information can be found online at www.st-lucie.lib.fl.us/zora. For more information, call 772-462-1618.
Departing from the Fisherman’s Wharf Marina, Florida DolphinWatch (772-466-4660; www.floridadolphinwatch.com) takes you on a narrated journey through the Indian River Lagoon, where dolphin sightings are frequent and the birding is superb. You’ll tour both the fringe of Fort Pierce Inlet State Park and Jack Island Preserve. Reservations required; call for cruise schedule and current pricing. Also offers boat rentals and charters.
River Lilly River Cruises (772-489-8344; www.riverlillycruises.com) offer two nature cruises from November through mid-June. The Eco Tour explores the North Fork of the St. Lucie River Aquatic Preserve, a beautiful backwater lined with palms and dense natural foliage. Watch for alligators, turtles, and birds, with occasional sightings of manatees and river otters. These tours launch from River Park Marina, 500 SE Prima Vista Blvd., in Port St. Lucie. A Nature Cruise to Bird Island launches from Veterans Memorial Park at Rivergate, 2200 SE Veterans Memorial Pkwy., in Port St. Lucie. Cruises are about $20 per person; call for schedule and current pricing; reservations required.
GAMING If you’ve not experienced the high speed game of jai-alai, a Basque sport where the ball whizzes past at speeds of up to 175 miles per hour, stop in at Fort Pierce Jai-Alai (1-800-JAI-ALAI or 1-800-524-2524), Kings Hwy., near Florida’s Turnpike and I-95, Fort Pierce, to watch the mesmerizing action and, if you’re so inclined, to bet on it. The complex includes elegant dining and intertrack wagering as well. Call for schedules; seasonal, running Nov.–Apr.
GOLF Since 1938, the Indian Hills Golf Course (772-465-8110), 1600 S Third St., Fort Pierce, has been an important part of the community, challenging golfers with a par 72 course.
HIKING For solitude amid the pines and ponds, head to the Indrio Savannas (see Wild Places) to stretch your legs; on Jack Island (see Preserves) work your way through a mangrove puzzle for 5 or more miles. With several miles of trails to choose from, the Oxbow Eco-Center in Port St. Lucie (see Nature Centers) is a sure bet for an enjoyable morning hike with or without the kids. There are many other public lands in St. Lucie County with shorter nature trails; see Green Space for more ideas.
HORSEBACK RIDING Enjoy the exhilaration of riding a horse down the beach along South Hutchinson Island. St. Lucie Parks & Recreation (772-489-4386) sponsors this unique experience, and reservations are essential for the 90-minute rides. Rides are typically arranged each Sunday, departing from Frederick Douglass Memorial Park (see Beaches), and riders must be at least 10 years old.
PADDLING By kayak, the Indian River Lagoon is a marvel of wildlife—there is no better way to see manatees and sea turtles up close. Check in at Dolphin Watch (see Ecotours) for rentals. If you’ve brought your own, consider a lazy paddle up the North Fork of the St. Lucie River, launching from either the Halpatiokee unit of the St. Lucie Inlet Preserve State Park (see Wild Places in Martin County) off US 1 in Port St. Lucie (where a handcart is a must to get down the 0.5-mile, often soggy nature trail to the dock) or from the more easily accessible White City Park (561-462-1521), 1801 W Midway Rd., Fort Pierce, where a paddle south lets you admire the moss-draped live oaks along the shoreline and explore the cul-de-sacs and oxbows where manatees hide in the wintertime.
SURFING For surfers in the know, Fort Pierce Inlet State Park (see Beaches) is a primo destination on the Treasure Coast. On the north side of the inlet, the North Jetty receives swells from the south and east, and no matter the time of year, the waves appear—best caught at high tide. The downside? The crowds. Hit the surf early on weekdays for the prime peaks.
The world-renowned Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institution (772-465-2400; www.fau.edu/hboi/), 5600 N US 1, is the home port of Johnson-Sea-Link submersibles and offers lectures, trips, and tours, many open to the public. Scientists here explore the seas, discovering applications for medicine and studying environmental impacts on reefs and sea life. Exhibits are throughout the campus; call ahead for lecture and tour information.
At the Manatee Observation & Education Center (772-466-1600; www.manateecenter.com), 480 N Indian River Dr., see manatees up close along Moore’s Creek, a favored gathering spot. An observation tower provides a view from above, and the exhibition hall, complete with movies, will further your knowledge of these gentle giants. Open 10 AM–5 PM Tues.–Sat., noon–4 PM Sun. (Oct.–June); 10 AM–5 PM Thurs.–Sat. (July–Sept.). Fee.
Adjacent to the St. Lucie County Historical Museum (see Museums), the Smithsonian Marine Ecosystems Exhibit at the St. Lucie County Marine Center (772-462-FISH; www.sms.si.edu/SMEE/smeehome.htm), 420 Seaway Dr., shows off a 3,300-gallon living coral reef and other living exhibits of Florida’s coastal habitats, including mangrove forests and seagrass communities. These are not your typical aquarium exhibits—they are working models of the habitats, with interaction between all organisms living in each community. Open 10 AM–4 PM Tues.–Sat., noon–4 PM Sun. Fee. Free on Tues.
Green SpaceSurf’s up at Fort Pierce Inlet State Park (772-468-3985), 905 Shorewinds Dr., one of the best places to hang 10 along this stretch of coastline. The 0.5-mile beach is popular for swimming, snorkeling, and sunbathing, and Dynamite Point was a training site for navy frogmen during World War II. Add picnic tables and nature trails, and it’s a great family destination. Open 8 AM–sunset daily; fee. Nearby Pepper Park, north on SR A1A, provides a launch point north of the inlet for snorkelers and scuba divers to explore Spanish galleons wrecked in the 1700s, just yards offshore; free.
Driving south from Fort Pierce down SR A1A, you’ll find many beach access points provided by St. Lucie Parks & Recreation (561-462-1521). Just 4 miles south is Frederick Douglass Memorial Park, 3500 S SR A1A, with picnic pavilions, bathrooms and showers, lifeguards, and a wheelchair-accessible beach crossover. Enjoy more of a wilderness feel at Blind Creek Beach, 5500 S SR A1A, just north of the nuclear power plant. South of the plant is Walton Rocks Beach, 6501 S SR A1A, with restrooms and picnic tables and a rocky reef exposed at low tide. Herman’s Bay, 7800 S SR A1A, has paved parking and dune crossovers. Finally, Waveland Beach, 10350 S SR A1A, offers another large oceanfront park with lifeguards, restrooms and showers, a concession stand, and a boardwalk. One thing to be aware of is that a nuclear power plant sits on the waterfront here. Some families may prefer to explore beaches farther north or south along the coast.
BOTANICAL GARDENS Wander the garden rooms at Heathcote Botanical Gardens (772-464-4672; www.heathcotebotanicalgardens.org), 210 Savannah Rd., Fort Pierce, a collection of formal specialty gardens including an herb garden, a reflection garden, a palm and cycad walk, and more. Their gift shop offers local art, Florida gardening and plant books, and children’s toys and trinkets. The gardens and shop are open 9 AM–5 PM Tues.–Sat. year-round and 1 PM–5 PM Sun. Nov.–Apr. Admission $6 for adults, $5 for seniors, and $2 for children. Guided tours available.
NATURE CENTER 
The Oxbow Eco-Center (772-785-5833; www.stlucieco.gov/erd/oxbow), 5400 NE St. James Dr., Port St. Lucie, is a 225-acre preserve along the North Fork of the St. Lucie River with trails radiating out from the nature center. Some of the trails are wheelchair-accessible boardwalks, but most take you out into the wilds of pine flatwoods, scrub, hardwood hammocks, and tall bluffs and swamps along the river. Wildlife is abundant; bring your camera! Guided walks available. Open dawn–dusk daily. Free.
Offering a large campground with a view of the massive freshwater savannas along St. Lucie’s coast, Savannas Recreation Area (772-464-1765 or 1-800-789-5776; www.stlucieco.gov/parks), 1400 Midway Rd., has freshwater fishing, nature trails, canoe rentals, and boat ramps. Fee.
In a forest along the C-24 Canal, Oak Hammock Park, 1982 SW Villanova Rd., has two pleasant nature trails, with the Oak Trail meandering through a grove of ancient live oaks. There is a fishing boardwalk, picnic tables, and a playground as well. Free.
Just 1.5 miles north on SR A1A from Fort Pierce Inlet, Fort Pierce Inlet State Park (772-468-3985; www.floridastateparks.org/fortpierceinlet) offers a place for solitude and the opportunity to watch ospreys in graceful flight above the Indian River Lagoon. A narrow bridge connects the parking area with 5 miles of trails for hiking and bicycling through mangrove-lined impoundments; an observation tower provides a bird’s-eye view of surrounding islands. Open 8–sunset daily. Free.
An interpretive trail introduces you to the coastal dune habitat at Ocean Bay Natural Area, SR A1A, 4.5 miles north of Jensen Beach Blvd., where you’ll tunnel through dense sea grapes, gumbo limbo, and strangler fig on a 15-minute walk. Free.
Some of the area’s best bird-watching can be found at Indrio Savannas Natural Area (772-462-2526), Tozour Rd. and US 1, where marsh impoundments attract a variety of wading birds in this 423-acre preserve, and Florida scrub jays are commonly seen in the scrub forest. More than 5 miles of hiking trails meander through pine flatwoods, open prairies, and along the impoundments. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Free.
Stretching more than 10 miles from Fort Pierce to Jensen Beach, Savannas Preserve State Park (772-398-2779; www.floridastateparks.org/savannas), 9551 Gumbo Limbo Ln., protects the longest remaining freshwater savanna on Florida’s east coast. Teeming with wildlife, these marshes are less than 3 miles from the sea.
LodgingHang out on the wild side at Savannas Recreation Area (772-464-7855), 1400 Midway Rd., a county park on the western shore of Savannas Preserve State Park, where tent camping is available on unimproved sites, and there are improved sites for RVs and campers. Launch a kayak into the savannas, or walk along their edge on a nature trail to an observation tower.
The Port St. Lucie RV Resort (772-337-3340 or 1-877-405-2333; www.portstluciervresort.com), 3703 SE Jennings Rd., offers RV and camping spaces for $37 nightly. Most visitors are in for the season. Enjoy an air-conditioned clubhouse with big-screen TV, fax, and pool table, or lounge around the heated pool.
Kick back and relax in a pleasant island-themed room at the Fountain Hotel & Resort (772-466-7041; www.fountainresort.net), 4889 N US 1, an intimate hotel with a heated pool and spa as the centerpiece of the grounds. Each room, suite, or efficiency ($79–109 May 1–Dec. 15 and $119–159 Dec. 16–Apr. 30) offers wireless Internet, satellite TV, and DVD players. Guests also enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast.
Just 2 blocks from the beach at Fort Pierce Inlet, the Dockside Harbor Light Inn (772-468-3555 or 1-800-286-1745; www.docksideinn.com), 1160 Seaway Dr., offers a variety of well-kept rooms in a lush tropical setting. Guests have access to two heated pools and a whirlpool as well as fishing piers and dockage. Rates range from $70 off-season, $79 in-season for a standard room to $255 for the Presidential Waterfront Suite.
Where to EatKick back along the Indian River at the original Tiki Bar & Restaurant (772-461-0880; www.originaltikibar.com), 2 Ave. A, an open-air chickee overlooking the Indian River where the music draws a crowd, and despite the Jimmy Buffet casual atmosphere, the food is top-notch, from Florida lobster tail to Black Angus steaks. Dinner entrées $15 and up.
For a taste of the Caribbean, try The Calypso Pot (772-878-5044), 354 S Port St. Lucie Blvd., an authentic island restaurant serving curries and roti, with Trinidad specialties such as calypso rice, soursop, peanut punch, and homemade ginger beer. Entrées $3–12. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
The parking lot was packed at Norris’ Famous Place for Ribs (772-464-7000; www.norrisribs.com), 6598 S US 1, and from the aroma inside, it was no surprise, since they serve award-winning baby back ribs, prime rib, and more to satisfy every meat lover, with entrées starting at $8. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Special EventsFirst Friday: Held the first Friday of every month. Friday Fest (772-466-3880; www.MainStreetFortPierce.org), held in downtown Fort Pierce from 5:30 to 8:30 PM, is the biggest street festival along the Treasure Coast, attracting more than 5,000 people each month for live music, food and drinks, and the arts. Free.