KEY WEST

The Calusa people were the earliest inhabitants of Key West, but the island remained undiscovered until 1521, when Juan Ponce de León arrived, establishing a fishing and salvage village. Visited mainly by Spanish explorers, the island was first deeded to Cuba and called Cayo Hueso, meaning “Bone Island,” and in 1815 the governor of Cuba transferred the island to the United States. Because Key West was so remote, townies refused to recognize any nation and became a bit unruly. So, John Simonton, a large landowner, lobbied the U.S. government for a new naval base, hoping its presence would provide some order to the town. In 1823 Commodore David Porter of the U.S. Navy took charge and ran any rowdy residents out of town.

Today, Key West is home to a wealth of exemplary cuisine and charming guest houses with luxuriously appointed rooms. Duval Street is lined with pubs busy from early in the day to late into the night. The creative community welcomes gay and lesbian members, and many businesses and activities cater to gays, such as WomenFest and Fantasy Fest, celebrations held in September and October. Drag shows provide exceptional entertainment for all persuasions, and an easygoing atmosphere ensures fun for all. Key West ascribes to a philosophy dubbed One Human Family, a public declaration adopted on October 17, 2000, that all people everywhere are entitled to equal rights, respect, and dignity and lives free from violence, prejudice, and harassment.

Key West is one of the most unusual cities in the country and one of the most visited, although a high proportion of visitors spend a very limited time in town—just long enough to hike from one end of legendary Duval Street to the other, buy a T-shirt, and have a beer at Sloppy Joe’s before jumping back aboard their cruise ship.

This cruise-ship tourism was denounced by former mayor Shirley Freeman as a costly exploitation of the island, and indeed, the ambient spirit that has drawn artists and writers here since before the days when Hemingway made Key West his home in the 1930s does seem to be dwindling at the expense of a hustle to survive. The intense proliferation of hotels, guest houses, and restaurants catering to a well-heeled crowd with pockets full of money is driving real estate prices through the roof, displacing local residents to other islands. Paradise runs the risk of losing its artistic cultural backbone, giving way to carbon-copied galleries, chain restaurants, and hotels.

BOAT LAUNCH AND MARINA, KEY WEST

Courtesy Sunset Key Resort

LOTUS BLOSSOM IN HEMINGWAY’S GARDEN, KEY WEST

Trish Riley

Although Key West has a long history of attracting artistic types and those of non-traditional sexual persuasion, I was surprised to note on a recent visit a high proportion of middle-aged middle Americans; a decidedly different crowd than I’d ever seen here before. It’s as if those who chose more conventional lifestyles enjoy the chance to visit a paradise where anything goes—a place where you can sample, if only for a few days, the decadence you turned away from when opting for a more mundane life.

I encourage you to take the time to find and enjoy the flavors of Key West that can’t be found anywhere else in the world. Spend time musing, writing, painting, and nourishing your own artistic soul while visiting, enjoying, and at the same time replenishing the spirit that makes the place special. Come drink a toast to Ernest Hemingway with thousands of white-bearded men during Hemingway Days in July, or don (or should I say remove?) your Mardi Gras garb for the wildest Halloween masquerade you’ve ever seen during Fantasy Fest in October.

Perhaps you’ve heard of the Conch Republic, noticed the blue and yellow flags flying, or spotted the unique passports available in gift shops. All of these are inspired by the week of independence declared in 1982, creating an independent island nation for a few days. It all started when the U.S. Border Patrol set up a roadblock on US 1 as it exited the Keys in Florida City, searching all cars as they left the islands on a Sunday afternoon. The federal agency said the goal of the roadblock was to apprehend illegal aliens entering the country, yet in four days only 4 illegals were found, while 3,000 were recorded coming into Miami Beach. The car searches also turned up about 3 pounds of pot, which turned out to be another of the Border Patrol’s objectives.

POOCHIE’S WILD RIDE, KEY WEST

Trish Riley

But the fiasco had a greater impact on the Keys. A traffic jam 19 miles long greeted those returning from Keys vacations and discouraged potential visitors. The negative effect on the Keys biggest industry, tourism, was significant. When U.S. citizens were stopped and asked for proof of citizenship before being allowed to pass onto the mainland, Key West officials became angry. Then the mayor decided to take action: since the Keys were being treated like a foreign country, the islands would secede from the nation. A mock ceremony was held at Mallory Square, drawing international attention to the border fiasco.

Called a creative approach to a serious problem, the publicity stunt worked, and the roadblock was removed after five days. The event is commemorated each year in April at the ten-day Conch Republic Independence Celebration. Its motto: “We seceded where others failed.”

All over Key West you’ll hear residents referred to as “Conchs” (pronounced “Konks”). The label began with early Bahamian immigrants and was adopted by all residents during the 20th century. Today a “Salt Water Conch” is a person born on the island; a “Fresh Water Conch” is born elsewhere but has been on the island so long they are considered a native.

GUIDANCE The official contact for visitors to the Keys is The Florida Keys & Key West (305-296-1552 or 1-800-FLA-KEYS; www.fla-keys.com), 1201 White St., Ste. 102, Key West 33040, where you will find information on all the Keys. The Key West Chamber of Commerce (305-294-2587; www.keywestchamber.org), 402 Wall St., is another resource once you get to Key West.

GETTING THERE By car: Once you enter the Keys, one road links the islands—the Overseas Highway, US 1.

By air: To reach the Lower Keys, use Miami International Airport (see The Gables, the Grove, and Downtown Miami section); Marathon Airport (305-289-6060), 9400 Overseas Hwy., Ste. 200; or Key West International Airport (305-296-5439; www.keywestinternationalairport.com).

By bus: Greyhound (305-296-9072, 305-871-1810, or 1-800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com) stops all along the islands. Call for specific pickup locations and rates.

By shuttle: Call 24 hours ahead for the Florida Keys Shuttle (305-289-9997 or 1-888-765-9997; www.floridakeysshuttle.com), which offers door-to-door service from Miami International Airport to numerous points in the Keys.

GETTING AROUND By foot: The best mode of transportation in Key West is by foot. Everything is close by and parking is limited, so stretch your legs and work off all that Key lime pie.

By two wheels: Rent a bicycle or motorized scooter to ease your weary feet, especially on hot days. Vendors are located on almost every corner, and many lodgings provide these for free or for a nominal fee. Pick up a free copy of Sharon Wells’ Walking and Biking Guide to Historic Key West at many shops, restaurants, and hotels around town for maps and information about local sights.

By car: US 1 connects the islands; destinations along the road are designated by mile markers, shown as “MM.” The hub of Key West’s Old Town historic district is found around Duval, Eaton, Simonton, Green, Caroline, and Front Streets.

By bus: Since Greyhound links the islands, it’s possible to use the bus to island-hop. Once in Key West, the City Bus for Key West and Stock Island (305-292-8165; www.keywestcity.com) and City of Key West Transit (305-292-8160) take you around the island. A shuttle service to Key West’s Old Town/ Historic District (305-293-6426) has stops along the entire route.

By taxi: You can get anywhere you’re going with Friendly Cab Co. (305-292-0000).

PARKING Metered parking is free all over town for guests with handicapped tags.

Park and Ride Garages are at the corner of Caroline and Grinnell Sts. Get reduced rates with a validated shuttle ticket ($1 per hour with a $10 maximum). The open lot at Mallory Square ($3 per hour) has no maximum, so it can add up if you leave your car overnight. The lot at the Schooner Wharf ($2 per hour) on William Street is another option if you’re heading out on one of the sailing tours.

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES For general emergencies head to Lower Keys Medical Center (305-294-5531; www.lkmc.com), 5900 Junior College Rd., Key West. The Key Largo Recompression Chamber (911 if emergency, 1-800-NO-BENDS for information) is the closest resource for divers experiencing the life-threatening “bends.”

To See

AQUARIUM The Key West Aquarium (305-296-2051; www.keywestaquarium.com), One Whitehead St. at Mallory Square, provides an opportunity to see “goliath grouper,” a docile native species that lives under piers and around the reefs. The aquarium opened in 1934 as the city’s first tourist attraction. It’s a must-see for its classic interior, including the vero fresco murals originally painted by Alfred Crimi in 1934 and retouched by local artists Gualberto Alfaro and David Laughlin in 1998. Historic photos of the aquarium and docks are suspended around the central room, which is ringed with tanks of native sea creatures, such as brilliant purple and yellow cheek wrasse, chalk bass, and sergeant major. Staff members feed the stingrays and sea turtles and show off sharks that you’re allowed to touch. The touch tank up-front contains conchs, horseshoe crabs, and starfish. A pool rimmed with red mangroves shimmers with tarpon, rainbow parrot fish (who eat coral and excrete the beach sand you see in the Keys), bonnet head sharks, barracuda, and other common denizens of the deep. Open daily 10 AM–6 PM. Adults $11, ages 9–12 $5.

ART GALLERIES A bevy of art galleries can be found on Duval Street, but you will also want to seek out other galleries sporadically located around town, such as The Lemonade Stand Art Studio (305-295-6873; www.lemonadestandartstudio.com), 227 Petronia St. in Bahama Village; the Harrison Gallery (305-294-0609; www.harrisongallery.com), 825 White St., which represents sculptor Helen Harrison along with other talented artists; the Haitian Art Co. (305-296-8932;), 600 Frances St., which has been exhibiting a diverse collection of Haitian art since 1977; and Mary O’Shea’s Glass Garden (305-293-8822; www.keywestglass.com), 613 Eaton St., the largest glass studio in the Florida Keys. Glass Reunions (305294-1720; www.glassreunions.com), 825 Duval St., is a contemporary gallery with a stunning collection of work by more than 200 glass artists from around the country.

Back on Duval Street you’ll find Alan S. Maltz Gallery (305-294-0005; www.alanmaltz.com), 1210 Duval St., which showcases the fine-art photography of this renowned artist; and you won’t want to miss the infamous Wyland Gallery (305-292-4998; www.wyland.com), 719 and 102 Duval St., featuring the works of marine-life artist Wyland, along with other environmental artists. Wyland has painted more than 25,000 works since 1971, and his art is cherished by collectors in 30 countries around the world. Globally famous for his colorful large-scale Whaling Walls (see Murals), he has worked diligently to educate the world on environmental issues. You’ll want to explore the “Wyland Kids, Save Our Blue Planet” section of his Web site, where you can view illustrations of marine animals with your little ones. And kids of all ages will fall in love with his new children’s book, Spouty and Friends.

BUTTERFLY CONSERVATORY Known for his Wings of Imagination gallery on Duval Street, artist Sam Trophia dreamed of a Victorian flower garden that evoked the sensory magic of stepping into an animated scene from a classic Disney movie. After many years of hard work with partner George Fernandez, the dream is now alive as the Key West Butterfly Conservatory (305-296-2988 or 1-800-839-4647; www.keywestbutterfly.com), 1316 Duval St., a half-acre tropical forest under glass where clouds of butterflies drift past as you stand mesmerized. Music adds a touch of magic as you watch blue morphos, giant swallowtails, and heliconias settle down and feast on slices of fruit. Tiny colorful birds—honeycreepers, speckled tan-agers, and paradise tanagers—flit about in search of fruit. In the Wings of Imagination Gift Shop (www.wingsofimagination.com), one room is devoted to the art of butterflies, where Trophia’s creations include mounted butterflies that swirl like luminescent galaxies (see Selective Shopping). Open daily 9 AM–5 PM. Adults $10, senior citizens and military $8.50, ages 4–12 $7.50.

HISTORIC SITES Relive the building of the Key West extension of the Florida East Coast Railway at Flagler Station (305-295-3562), 901 Caroline St. While naysayers shook their heads, Henry Flagler started construction in 1905 on the first overseas railroad. Spanning 130 miles from the Florida mainland to Key West, “Flagler’s Folly” was successfully completed seven years later, allowing the 84-year-old Flagler just long enough to see the first train arrive in Key West. Flagler fell down a flight of stairs at his home in Palm Beach, passing away May 20, 1913 (see Whitehall in Central Palm Beach County). Open daily 9 AM–5 PM. Fee.

At Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park (305-295-00376713; www.floridastateparks.org/forttaylor), end of Southard St. on Truman Annex, explore one of the United States’s largest fortresses, built to protect the shipping lanes passing Key West. Construction of this massive masonry structure began in 1850. During the Civil War, Federal soldiers occupied the fort, forcing Key West into Union hands. By the time construction was completed in 1866, the fort included a desalination plant and a row of latrines flushed out by the tides. During the Spanish-American War, the top levels of Fort Taylor were cut down to install modern weaponry; only in recent times has it been discovered that in doing so, the soldiers encased the largest known cache of Civil War–era cannons in concrete. As you tour the fort, notice the gothic styling within the various chambers. Fee.

East Martello Fort and Museum (305-296-39131; www.kwahs.com), 3501 S Roosevelt Blvd., was built in 1862 for protection during the Civil War, but the East Martello battery was never used for battle because of obsolete construction methods, although it has been used to house and train soldiers. Today it serves as a suitable repository for historical artifacts, including those from Native American times, from shipwrecking, from the Keys’ wealthy days as a U.S. port of entry, from sponging and fishing, and more, through the past few decades of island history. Open 9:30–4:30 daily (except Christmas). Small fee.Take a few moments to wander through the Key West Cemetery, where all the graves are aboveground, and many have inscriptions such as I TOLD YOU I WAS SICK engraved on headstones. The 1847 historic cemetery is located in Old Town, bounded by Passover Lane and Frances, Olivia, Angela, and Margaret Streets, with the main entry gates open at the corner of Margaret and Angela. Several tours take you through or past the cemetery, or you can self-tour during the daylight hours.

Open since 1997, the Key West Historical Sculpture Garden is located in front of the Waterfront Playhouse (see Entertainment) near Mallory Square. The garden displays 36 bronze busts of men and women who were instrumental in the development and evolution of Key West. Plans to add an additional 36 busts are slated for the coming years. The Wreckers, by Miami sculptor James Mastin, rises 25 feet at the entrance to the garden and depicts the lives of these early pioneers.

The Sunset Celebration at Mallory Square is known the world over. Beginning in the 1800s as a raucous port for pirates, the harbor was next a place for antipirate demonstrations, and then the location from where American forces convened for the Civil War, the Spanish-American War, and World Wars I and II. In the 1960s, hippies took to the docks to watch the sunset, and a carnival atmosphere began. By the 1980s, the town felt they needed to regulate the somewhat lawless partying, so in 1984 Key West Cultural Preservation Society, Inc. was formed to manage the nightly event. Today you can join in the nightly festivities where residents and tourists alike gather to watch the sun set to the west. Preceding sunset, the square comes alive with a unique collection of performing artists, including fire eaters, jugglers, and magicians, while arts and crafts created by local artisans are sold. The square is named for Key West resident Stephen Russell Mallory (1812–73), who held a variety of governmental positions in Key West in the 1800s. Having particular knowledge about naval affairs, he was the Confederate secretary of the navy during the Civil War and one of President Jefferson Davis’s most valuable cabinet members.

Mile Marker Zero (0) is located at the corner of Whitehead and South Streets, designating the beginning of US 1. The highway stretches 2,390 miles from here along the U.S. eastern seaboard to Fort Kent, Maine. The marker provides a popular photo spot, as does the Southernmost Point. The site is marked by a huge red, yellow, green, and white buoy (circa 1983). Standing 12 feet tall with a reach of 7 feet wide, the buoy received a face-lift in 2005 only to be hammered later that year with Hurricane Wilma. Still standing, it marks the southernmost point in the continental United States that is accessible to the general public, and it is a mere 90 miles from Havana, Cuba. The true southernmost point, on dry land anyway, is within the U.S. Naval Base boundary, just a bit west of the buoy. The actual southernmost point in the United States is on tiny Ballast Key, a federally protected wildlife preserve with no public access. It is located a few miles southwest between Key West and the Marquesas Keys. While you can’t step on the southernmost island, you can fly over it on a tour (see Airplane Tours).

At 322 Duval St., the Oldest House in South Florida is now the Wrecker’s Museum (see Museums). Built in 1829 as a residence for Capt. Francis Watlington and his family, this six-room house with courtyard and outbuildings remained a residence until 1973 and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

The stained-glass windows at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, 401 Duval St., are a glorious sight to behold; so much so that Lloyd’s of London insures them. You’ll want to be sure to visit this spectacular church (circa 1838), but you may not be alone when you do. It’s said that the ghost of John Fleming, who donated the land the church rests on, wanders the grounds. When not on his ghostly rounds, Mr. Fleming’s earthly remains reside in the churchyard.

MURALS The Coral Reef wall at the Historic Seaport wraps around much of the building housing Waterfront Market and Reef Relief on William Street. The mural, which showcases an impressive view of the Florida Keys’s coral reef ecosystem, is one of Wyland’s Whaling Wall projects (see Art Galleries). He was joined by artist Guy Harvey, best known for his painting of sport fish. Make sure to stop in at Reef Relief’s Environmental Center & Gift Store.

You’ll need to check in at the office at Glynn Archer Elementary School, 1302 White St., before viewing the mural painted by artist William Hoffman. The mural depicts the early years of Key West with Spanish explorers and the construction of the Overseas Railroad.

MUSEUMS At the Audubon House & Tropical Gardens (305-294-2116; www.audubonhouse.com), 205 Whitehead St., you’ll experience the artistic works of John James Audubon. You’ll see 28 first-edition pieces created by the world-famous ornithologist, along with an audio tour of the 1840s home, furnished with period pieces from the 1800s and built with architectural elements identified with wreckers and salvagers of the time. Enjoy a peaceful walk through the 1-acre tropical garden to calm your mind or enliven your spirits. Don’t forget to browse through the gallery and gift shop for inspired and imaginative items. Open daily 9:30 AM–5 PM. Adults $10, students $6.50, children $5.

MURAL OF THE EARLY KEYS, LOWER KEYS

Trish Riley

POOLSIDE DECOR IN THE COURTYARD AT CASA ANTIGUA, KEY WEST

Trish Riley

Casa Antigua, 314 Simonton St., is a little-known hideaway where Hemingway whiled away a few weeks waiting for his new Ford motor car to be delivered in 1928 . . . and wrote A Farewell to Arms in the meantime. Tours of the tropical courtyard are $2, or free with a $10 purchase in the adjoining Pelican Poop gift shop. Open 10 AM–6 PM daily.

The Curry Mansion Museum (305-294-5349 or 1-800-253-3466; www.currymansion.com), 511 Caroline St., built in 1899 by William Curry, a Bahamian immigrant who worked the shores of Key West as a salvager, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Curry started construction of the 25-room mansion in 1855, incorporating many design elements common to wreckers. Take particular note of the widow’s walk and Tiffany glass door entry. Make your way up the stairs to the attic, where you’ll find an array of antique toys and garments from the era. Throughout the mansion, each room is staged in Victorian elegance. You can rest your head at the Curry Mansion Inn (see Lodging), which offers guest rooms and suites. Open 10 AM–5 PM daily. Fee.

Eco-Discovery Center (305-809-4750; www.floridakeys.noaa.gov), 35 East Quay Rd., provides opportunities to learn about the Keys ecosystem with virtual dives, videos, displays, and gift shop. Open 9 AM–4 PM Tues.–Sat. except Thanksgiving and Christmas.

The Spanish colonial–style Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum (305-294-1136; www.hemingwayhome.com), 907 Whitehead St., is a National Historic Landmark. Built in 1851 by salvage wrecker Asa Tift, the home displays items collected by Hemingway during his world travels. A calm and creative environment, this is where Hemingway wrote most of his greatest novels and where you’ll find more than 60 descendants of his famous polydactyl cats, who lounge throughout the elegant garden and stately home. Open daily 9 AM–5 PM for tours. Adults $12, children $6, under six free.

At the Heritage House Museum & Robert Frost Cottage (305-296-3573; www.heritagehousemuseum.org), 410 Caroline St., you’ll view a grand Caribbean colonial house (circa 1830s) with a variety of rare antiques and maritime memorabilia. The Robert Frost Cottage, located at the rear of the home, is often used for poetry conferences and can be viewed only from the outside during the tour. Open 10 AM–4 PM Mon.–Sat., with tours every half hour. The $15 admission also includes admission to the Oldest House and the Audubon House.

Key West Shipwreck Historeum (305-292-8990; www.shipwreckhistoreum.com), One Whitehead St. Your costumed guide, master wrecker Asa Tift, takes you on an engaging tour of the 1800s, when shipwreck salvaging was the means to untold wealth, albeit a perilous livelihood. Learn about the world of wreckers as he spins a tale of the 1856 sinking and recovery of the Isaac Allerton, the richest shipwreck in Key West history. See artifacts from this rich and colorful historical period, when wrecking was Key West’s main occupation. Open daily 9 AM–5 PM. Adults $11, ages 4–12 $4.50, under 4 free.

Florida’s only presidential museum is—the Little White House (305-294-9911; www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.com), 111 Front St., at the Truman Naval Station. Walk through rooms filled with history to see where President Harry S. Truman spent 175 days at Quarters A while you listen to stories of historical meetings, elegant soirees, and how he kept the Secret Service on their toes. Modern moguls and CEOs should take note of the tiny desk where Truman signed important documents. Open daily 9 AM–5 PM. Adults $15, senior $13, ages 5–12 $5, under 5 free.

At the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Museum (305-294-2633; www.melfisher.org), 200 Greene St., you’ll see an outstanding collection of shipwreck salvage. Donated in large part (more than $20 million in treasure and historical artifacts) by the man who “saw the ocean paved with coin,” founder Mel Fisher established an incredible exhibit. You’ll see such items as the “poison cup” gold chalice, an emerald-studded gold cross, gold and silver bars, thousands of silver coins, and other treasures from the 1622 shipwreck of the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha. Check out the second floor, where you’ll learn more about pirates and life at sea. The Trade Goods museum store features authentic Spanish “cob” coins made into jewelry pieces, and replicas of doubloons and ancient weaponry. Free.

Inside the Oldest House Wrecker’s Museum (305-294-9501; www.oirf.org/museums/oldesthouse.htm), 322 Duval St., enjoy a tour of the Watlington house (see Historic Sites), built in 1829. Each room is decked out with period paintings, furnishings, and extensive exhibits that evoke the age of the wrecker, an old and storied career in the Conch Republic. In the back of the home, the office of Capt. Francis Watlington (circa 1870) features a “landlubber’s tilt,” with the windows and boards at a slant. Step out into the shaded courtyard and explore the outbuildings, the kitchen, and a former carriage house with exhibits on the wreckers of the Keys. Artifacts include a book from 1836, fragments of a china doll tea set, and a giant turnbuckle for the iron struts supporting the 1853 Sand Key lighthouse. Open 10 AM–2 PM daily for self-guided tours. Fee.

The bizarre and unnatural can be found at Ripley’s Believe It or Not (305-293-9939; www.ripleyskeywest.com), 108 Duval St., where more than 500 exhibits in 13 themed galleries include everything from a prehistoric mastodon skeleton to a shrunken torso reputed to have belonged to Ernest Hemingway. Open daily 9:30 AM–11 PM. Adults $15, ages 5–12 $12, under 5 free.

By far one of the most famous homes in Key West is the 1896 Southernmost House Grand Hotel & Museum (305-296-3141; www.southernmosthouse.com), 1400 Duval St. Tours take you through the former home of Judge J. Vining Harris, where you’ll see 43 original U.S. Presidential signatures, along with other documents dating from 1486. The tour provides you with the rich history of the home and the politics of the time. When Truman snuck out of the Little White House, this is where the Secret Service would find him. The home is also a bed & breakfast (see Lodging). Open for tours 10–6 daily. Adults $8, children under 12 free.

At the Turtle Kraals Museum (305-294-0209), 200 Margaret St., you’ll learn about the turtle rehabilitation program of this former turtle canning facility. Open daily 11:15 AM–4:15 PM. Donation.

RAILROADIANA At the Flagler Station Overseas Railroad Historeum (305-295-3562; www.flaglerstation.net), 901 Caroline St., in the historic Key West Seaport, take a journey into the past through the movie The Day the Train Arrived, commemorating Flagler’s disembarkation on the first train to Key West on January 22, 1912. Walk through a Florida East Coast railroad car with photographs and artifacts, and listen to storytellers describe one of the most awesome engineering feats of the last century. Fee.

WILDLIFE REHABILITATION The Reef World Educational Facility and Environmental Center, a nonprofit organization dedicated to protecting coral reefs (305-294-3100; www.reefrelief.org), 201 William St., at the historic seaport, offers free activities about reefs, turtles, dolphins, and sharks, and what you can do to help protect living coral reef ecosystems. At their gift shop there is a great variety of educational materials and books for young and old on this fragile marine environment, and there is also a selection of ecorelevant clothes, gifts, and posters. This is an interesting place to visit and an important stop where the family can learn about the need to protect the fragile environment of the Keys. Free.

Housed in a corner of the Sonny McCoy Indigenous Park (see Parks), Wildlife Rescue of the Keys (305-294-1441; www.floridakeyswildliferescue.org/fkwr), 1388 Ave. B, cares for sick and injured wildlife in the Lower Keys, particularly shorebirds, with an emphasis on rehabilitation and release. Dedicated volunteers have rescued crocodiles and assisted with whale strandings. Wander through the enclosures to visit with permanent residents such as pelicans, seagulls, and osprey that cannot be returned to the wild. Open 9 AM–5 PM daily. Donation.

To Do

AIRPLANE TOURS Let the wind blow through your hair as you and one other person share the adventure of a lifetime on Key West Biplane Rides (305-294-8687; www.keywestairtours.com), 3469 S Roosevelt Blvd., located at the Key West Airport. You’ll fly in a 1941 open cockpit WACO UPF-7 biplane as you soar only 500 feet off the ground and over the water. Different tours show you the sites of Key West and nearby islands. For a quick tour take the 18-minute Island Shipwreck Tour ($140) to see the Old Town District and shipwrecks in the Fleming Key Channel. You’ll spot sharks and stingrays swimming below in the 30-minute Coral Reef/Boca Grande Key Tour ($295), which covers 34 nautical miles over Key West and nearby uninhabited islands. The 50- to 55-minute Hour Tour ($325) takes in all the sites from Hemingway’s famous Stilt House to Cotrell Key to look at the coral. All prices are per plane for two people. Call for reservations.

SOUTHERNMOST HOUSE

Courtesy Southernmost House

BIRDING Visit the Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden (see Botanical Gardens) during the month of September for “Migration Mania,” as migratory birds stop en masse at freshwater Desbiens Pond to drink deeply before setting off to Central and South America. Our feathered friends also flock to the freshwater pond near the White Street Pier at Sonny McCoy Indigenous Park (see Parks). Dry Tortugas National Park (305-242-7700; www.nps.gov/drto/), P.O. Box 6208, Key West, offers some of the most spectacular birding opportunities in the U.S. Visitors can camp on the virtually unoccupied islands or just visit for the day. Travel there by ferry, seaplane, or private boat ($40 and up). Park admission fee.

CRUISING You’ll find golf cart–type electric cars for rent at Key West Cruisers (305-294-4724 500 Truman Ave. (at the intersection of Truman and Duval). These two- and four-seaters range from $60 to 80, starting from two hours to three or more days.

ECOTOURS Kayak Eco-Tours (305-294-8087; www.blue-planet-kayak.com) will take you paddling through a wildlife refuge or under the full moon. Guided tours are two and a half hours long ($50). Private tours are also available. Or you can rent a single or tandem kayak for a full day ($40–50) or a half day ($30–40) and explore on your own.

Lazy Dog Island Outfitters & Adventure Company (305-295-9898; www.mosquitocoast.net), 5114 Overseas Hwy., located at the Hurricane Hole Marina at MM 4.2. Lazy Dog takes you on sea kayaks through the backcountry on wildlife and snorkel tours. Rate is $60 per person and includes snacks, bottled water, and mask and snorkel sets. Lazy Dog also offers two-hour kayak tours with your dog ($35).

GHOST TOURS You’ll have a spooktacular time with The Ghosts & Legends of Key West (305-294-1713 or 1-866-622-4467; www.keywestghosts.com), where you’ll learn about the ghouls that inhabit Victorian mansions and secret voodoo rituals. Ninety-minute tours are at 7 PM and 9 PM nightly, starting at the Porter Mansion at the corner of Duval and Caroline Streets. Ages 8 and up $18.

You’ll be led by lantern through the dark and narrow streets of historic Old Town for about 90 minutes with Ghost Tours of Key West (305-294-9255; www.hauntedtours.com), 423 Fleming St., where you’ll learn about the legends of pirates, wreckers, and former Key West inhabitants. The nightly 0.5-mile tour begins in the lobby of the Crowne Plaza La Concha Hotel at 430 Duval Street and covers such sites as St. Paul’s Episcopal Church and cemetery (see Historic Sites) and Captain Tony’s Saloon (see Eating Out). Founded in 1996 by the author of Ghosts of Key West, David L. Sloan, this nightly haunt has been featured on numerous television shows, including the History and Discovery channels. Two tours leave at 8 and 9 PM. Adults $15, ages 4–12 $10, under 4 free.

HOCKEY Families skate free at the Southernmost Hockey Club (www.keywesthockey.com) on Friday night. Bring your own inline skates to the corner of Bertha St. and Atlantic Blvd. Call the YMCA of Key West at 305-296-YMCA for more information.

SAILING TOURS The 80-foot Schooner Liberty and 125-foot Schooner Liberty Clipper set sail morning, afternoon, and sunset for two hours on the Liberty Fleet of Tall Ships (305-292-0332; www.libertyfleet.com), 245 Front St. You’ll enjoy the festive Caribbean barbecue during the season on the Schooner Liberty Clipper. Ships depart from Schooner Wharf at the historic seaport. Morning and afternoon sails: adults $40, children 12 and under $20; drinks available for purchase. Sunset sails: adults $65, children $40; includes complimentary drinks. Two- and-a-half-hour-long Caribbean barbecue dinner cruise: adults $85, children $55.

On Sunny Days Catamarans (305-292-6100 or 1-800-236-7937; www.sunnydayskeywest.com), at the foot of Elizabeth and Greene Sts., you can choose from a variety of catamaran tours, from snorkeling tours ($35–45) to a full-day excursion to Dry Tortugas National Park (see Parks) on their Fast Cat ($135) (reduced prices for children and seniors). Rates include a continental breakfast, buffet lunch, soft drinks, water, snorkeling gear, and a guided tour of the fort.

The 130-foot Western Union (305-292-1766; www.keyweststargazer.com), 202 William St., at Schooner Wharf, is the last tall ship constructed in Key West and is the last sailing cable ship found anywhere. The Western Union, launched in 1939, spent the next 35 years laying cable off the shores of the Keys before being used in the Mariel Boatlift and in a program for troubled teens. Now back home, it is heralded as the “Flagship of Key West.” On two-hour, fully narrated afternoon and sunset tours, you’ll enjoy sailing on one of the few authentic coasting schooners still in sailing condition. Step aboard the varnished mahogany decks, and relax as the ship moves gently out through the shipping lanes while soft music plays. On their 90-minute Stargazer Cruise, you’ll discover the mystery of the night sky as astronomer Joe Universe provides you a bit of history and folklore, then uses a green laser beam to show you the stars and constellations overhead. Use your binoculars for a closer inspection of the band of animals that makes up the zodiac. Now owned by Historic Tours of America, the Western Union is on the National Register of Historic Places. Sunset and stargazing sails $55 with reduced prices for children.

TRAIN & TROLLEY TOURS Get your ticket for The Conch Tour Train (305-294-5161; www.conchtourtrain.com), 201 Front St. in Mallory Square, and then board from Mallory Square or from Flagler Station, 901 Caroline St. Narrated tours depart every half hour and are 90 minutes long. This tour is one way to learn about Key West before you explore on your own. Adults $29, ages 4–12 $14. Old Town Trolley Tours (305-296-6688 or 1-800-868-7482; www.historictours.com) is operated by the same company, but this one gives you the option of hopping on and off at 12 locations around town to spend a few minutes or hours at each location. Adults $26, ages 4–12 $13. Those with longer legs may be more comfortable on the trolley.

The Gay & Lesbian Trolley Tour (305-294-4603; www.gaykeywestfl.com), 513 Truman Ave., operated by Key West Business Guild and Historic Tours of America, bears the rainbow flag during the 70-minute tour each Sat at 11 AM. You’ll learn about the influence the gay and lesbian culture has had on the politics and economy of Key West, along with historical sites of specific interest to gay travelers. Call for departure location. Rates are $20 per person.

WALKING TOURS Duval, the main street of historic Old Town, stretches for 1 mile from the Atlantic Ocean (on the quiet side) to the Gulf of Mexico (on the spirited side), ending at Mallory Square (see Historic Sites). You’ll find many art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, pubs, and lively music along this well-populated boulevard. Those attempting the “Duval Crawl” (one drink in every bar on Duval St.) should have a designated driver, or at least someone who can carry you home.

Historian and artist Sharon Wells arrived in Key West in 1976 and has been charting the territory ever since. She provides personalized walking or bike tours through her company Island City Strolls and is also author of Sharon Wells’ Walking and Biking Guide to Historic Key West, available free at locations all around town for those who prefer to make their own way. Either way, if you’ve taken a liking to Keys architecture or are interested in the old cemetery, literary sites, grand homes and gardens, or gay highlights of Key West, Wells will help you find them. Wells’s paintings and photographs of Key West and beyond are displayed at her gallery, KW Light Gallery, at 534 Fleming Street. Island City Strolls (305-294-8380; www.seekeywest.com), 534 Fleming St., Key West. Go GPS Tours (305-293-8891; www.gogpstours.com), 218 Whitehead St., provide GPS devices with audiovisual tour guides in four languages for your independent explorations.

Green Space

BEACHES Fort Zachary Taylor (see Historic Sites), is a popular destination for watching the sunset and the cruise ships sailing past. Enjoy snorkeling or sunbathing on the coral rock sand; amenities include picnic tables, a bathhouse, and a light refreshment stand. Fee. On the Atlantic, Smathers Beach, on S Roosevelt Blvd., has shallow water great for the kids, and water sports including parasailing, Jet Skiing, and windsurfing. Free. At the White Street Pier, Higgs Beach is a popular family destination for its picnic tables and grills under the coconut palms. Gable Beach, at Vernon St. and Waddell Ave., is the one dog-friendly beach on the island. And for those who let it all hang out, Atlantic Shores Resort, 510 South St., features a private nude beach.

BOTANICAL GARDENS In 1936 the Works Progress Administration created a 55-acre botanical garden on Stock Island. But during World War II, pieces of the garden were sacrificed for an army hospital and other public works until the forest was whittled down to 8 acres and eventually abandoned. Thankfully, a group of dedicated volunteers has brought this botanical wonder back to life as the Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden (305-296-1504; www.keywestbotanicalgarden.org), 5210 College Rd., MM 4.25. Start your tour at the visitors center, which has a film about the biodiversity of the Keys, and pick up a map to walk any of the three self-guided tours through what is one of the top 25 biological hot spots of the world. Duke University students documented the flora of the forest, which includes a dwarf lignum vitae tree, the National Champion Cuban lignumvitae tree, thrinax palms more than a century old, and the oldest wild cinnamon tree in the Keys. Endangered white-crowned pigeons nest in the canopy, and thousands of migratory birds drop in for fresh water from Desbiens Pond, where the endangered mud-striped turtle lives. “The pond is like a turnpike stop on the flyway,” said Carol Ann Sharkey, president of the nonprofit. At least 30 endangered species live in this last remnant of truly tropical forest on Key West. Plans are to finish removing invasive plants from the existing 8 acres and restore a new 8-acre tract (the former site of the army hospital) back to a formal botanical garden, and establish a medicinal plants research center on the site. The forest and gardens are open 10–5, closed Wednesday and during September. Donation.

For a relaxing break from Duval Street, seek out Nancy Forrester’s Secret Garden (305-294-0015; www.nfsgarden.com), One Free School Ln. (off the 500 block of Simonton St.). This private paradise features lush tropical landscaping with orchids and an art gallery hides deep in the forest. Nancy Forrester, owner and curator of this last acre of undeveloped land in Key West, works hard to protect the status of her land. Enjoy a walk through the wild jungle paths and chat with resident parrots for a precious reminder of the importance of preserving nature and learning to live harmoniously with our environment. She also offers her property as an artists’ retreat, and sometimes she rents out the small Bahamian cottage in the garden—it’s lovely, with a porch and kitchenette. Open 10 AM–5 PM daily. Fee.

PARKS Seventy miles off the coast of Key West sits the Dry Tortugas National Park (www.nps.gov/drto). It’s clear the Florida Keys have been providing happy days for anglers and tourists for more than a century, and the population and plethora of commercial enterprises are the evidence. If you’re wondering what the Keys looked like in days past, consider a tour of the Dry Tortugas National Park, seven islands about 70 miles west of Key West. Named after its abundance of sea turtles (tortugas is Spanish for “turtles”), the area is a great location for snorkeling and birding, but it is best known for the largest fort in coastal America, Florida’s own Alcatraz, Fort Jefferson, which served insufficiently as both fort and prison before being abandoned and consigned to the park service. Several tour boats and seaplanes offer transportation to the area with tours of the fort. Park entrance fee; primitive camping is available on Garden Key for a nightly fee. Call the campground at 305-242-7700.

Protecting 5.5 acres of natural Key West, Sonny McCoy Indigenous Park (305-293-6418), 1801 White St., encompasses the largest freshwater pond on the island and is home to Wildlife Rescue of the Keys (see Wildlife Rehabilitation). This is a hot spot for birders, as you can see warblers in migration and various raptors, including swallow-tailed kites. A boardwalk leads to natural surface trails that take you through a forest of silver buttonwoods and thatch palms and a grove of gumbo limbo to an observation deck on the pond. There is a shaded picnic pavilion and restrooms. Open 7 AM–5 PM Mon.–Fri.; tours by arrangement. Free.

PRESERVES Key West Nature Preserve (305-809-3700), Atlantic Blvd. Meander the trail through this strip of natural coastal hammock, where sea grapes crowd the edge of a mangrove swamp and giant land crabs dig holes in the footpath. A boardwalk leads through a bower of nickerbean to an observation deck with a view of the pier and the wrack line on the beach. Open sunrise–sunset daily; no swimming. Free.

Lodging

The zip code for all Key West accommodations is 33040. Key West offers a wide range of accommodations, from single rooms to hotel suites, homes, and cottages, but the majority of lodgings are in restored Victorian and cracker houses scattered throughout Old Town, and they’re loaded with charm and amenities. Pets are particularly welcome in Key West, and many lodgings and restaurants welcome them.

BED & BREAKFASTS, GUEST HOUSES, HOMES, AND COTTAGES Ambrosia House (305-296-9838 or 1-800-535-9838; www.ambrosiakeywest.com), 615, 618, and 622 Fleming St., is smartly decorated in cool, island styles. Ambrosia House and Ambrosia Too offer suites, town houses, and a cottage clustered around tropical pools set in tropical gardens. It’s close to Old Town, yet just far enough away to be nicely secluded in its own lush ambiance. Pet friendly. And complimentary breakfast. $179–639.

AMBROSIA HOUSE, KEY WEST

Trish Riley

Artist House Key West (305-296-3977 or 1-800-582-7882; www.artisthousekeywest.com), 534 Eaton St. Stepping into the Artist House, said to be one of the most authentically restored Victorian guest houses in Old Town, is like stepping back in time. And some say that not everyone has left the premises from days gone by—is the turret room haunted? $115–265.

Authors of Key West Guesthouse (305-294-7381 or 1-800-898-6909; www.authorskeywest.com), 725 White St. This private compound of conch-style cottages, suites, and rooms is reminiscent of the many writers who have made Key West home. Bring pen and notebook and settle into the quiet atmosphere and peaceful gardens to craft your masterpiece, or just enjoy a few nights in style. Rooms and cottages; no pets. $100–155.

Avalon Bed and Breakfast (305-294-8233 or 1-800-848-1317; www.avalonbnb.com), 317 Duval St. Once a Cuban club at the quiet end of Duval Street, this bed & breakfast offers clean, quiet rooms with cool wood floors and net-canopied beds for guests seeking privacy and perhaps a little romance. Built in 1895, the Avalon is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Pets welcome. $89–329.

Center Court Inn and Cottages (305-296-9292 or 1-800-797-8787; www.centercourtkw.com) 915 Center St. A collection of several historic properties scattered through Old Town; each has been renovated to sleek perfection. Most include gardens, hot tubs, pools, and kitchens, and many are pet friendly. Rooms and cottages; breakfast included with some accommodations. $178–8,000.

The Curry Mansion House (305-294-6777 or 1-800-633-7439; www.curryhousekeywest.com), 806 Fleming St. Romantic rooms are clustered around the pool of this restored historic Victorian mansion and offer a relaxing vacation reminiscent of a nearly forgotten era. European breakfasts, pool, hot tub, and daily cocktail parties enhance the romance. If you should happen to hear a sad-sounding trombone blaring into the night—that would be the ghost of Miss Petunia, who whiled the hours waiting for her captain to come home from sea by playing her instrument from the Curry House widow’s walk. Rumor has it she was felled by a stray cannon blast, but everyone wonders, was it the miserable horn that cost her her life? Very reasonable rates in Key West terms. $109–259.

Curl up in a romantic atmosphere at the Curry Mansion Inn (305-294-5349 or 1-800-253-3466; www.currymansion.com), 511 Caroline St. The elegant 22-room mansion, built in 1899 by Florida’s first millionaire family, is open daily for historical tours (see Museums), which are free to guests. Rooms and suites are decorated with wicker or antiques from the period, such as graceful canopy beds, and have private baths, wet bars, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, and cable television. You’ll enjoy the close proximity to Duval Street for shopping and dining, or relax any time of day at the swimming pool and hot tub, open 24 hours. Accommodations include a full deluxe breakfast and daily open bar. Rooms and suites range from $195 to 365.

Cypress House and Guest Studios (305-294-6969 or 1-800-525-2488; www.cypresshousekw.com), 601 Caroline St. A wide variety of room options is available among two homes and a cottage nestled amid the lush flora that characterizes Old Town Key West. Whether you’re looking for luxury or are on a tight budget, you’ll find garden and courtyard rooms, a suite with kitchenette and a front porch, master suite with beautiful tiled bath and jacuzzi and hand-painted ceiling mural over the four-poster bed. A rich complimentary breakfast buffet features fresh home-baked breads, fruit, cereal, juices, and more each morning, and a poolside happy hour provides appetizers and a full bar for guests to get a head start on their Key West nights of delight. $165–450.

Duval House Key West (305-294-1666 or 1-800-223-8825; www.duvalhousekeywest.com), 815 Duval St. Put yourself on the edge of the middle of the action. Duval Street, lined with all the shops and pubs of Key West, is the strip to stroll when twilight fades and the lights take over the night. If you like to be in the thick of things, yet shielded by a white picket fence with a pool in a hidden garden for respite from the excitement of the city, this is the place for you. Small rooms to two-bedroom suites in this collection of 7 Victorian houses with balconies and a gazebo. $125–350.

The Eden House (305-296-6868 or 1-800-533-KEYS; www.edenhouse.com), 1015 Fleming St., is nestled on a side street within a short walk to all the activities on Duval. Built in 1924, the art deco–style inn is Key West’s oldest hotel and has been lovingly cared for by owner Mike Eden since 1975. The attention to detail is everywhere, from the warm greeting and cool beverage you’ll receive on your arrival to the lush tropical gardens, boardwalks, and hammocks found throughout the property. The fun and funky guest house feels like a beach house at times, and at others a quaint country inn. One thing is for sure—their knowledgeable staff knows the best places to eat and play on the island. But you’ll want to spend some time right here on-site. Sun lovers will want to bask by the heated pool and Jacuzzi, or up on the elevated sundeck, while those with delicate skin will want to curl up under a canopy of palms in one of the property’s eight hammocks, while listening only to the sounds of a waterfall. Enjoy a glass of wine or a chilled drink at the complimentary happy hour from 4 to 5. The comfortable rooms are very clean and efficient, with French doors leading out onto your own porch, some with swing. As this is a guest house, not a bed & breakfast, you’ll have to venture out for breakfast; however, an on-site restaurant, Café Med, offers convenient dinners with Mediterranean flavor. Coffee and tea are available in the lobby at all times. Rates range from those for rooms with shared bath ($95–175) to the deluxe conch house with full kitchen ($260–440) and every imaginable configuration in between, with prices going up incrementally with enhancements such as private bath, TV, refrigerator, kitchenette, porch, Jacuzzi, and extra bedroom. Free parking available on-site.

Settle into romance at The Frances Street Bottle Inn (305-294-8530 or 1-800-294-8530; www.bottleinn.com), 535 Frances St., where colorful antique bottles adorn the windows and walls of this 1879 home. Innkeepers Mary Beth, Dennis, and Marketa create a comfortable atmosphere with bright pastels and wicker, bookshelves lined with books in the common areas, a quiet garden with a hot tub, and a wraparound veranda on both floors under the poinciana and palms. Over the years, the inn has worn many cloaks—from a private home to a general store, a Presbyterian church, and the starring role in the Fox TV series Key West in the 1990s. Each of the seven units ($125–295) has private baths and televisions; there is a phone and data port hookup in the lobby, where breakfast is served from 8 to 10. I especially appreciate their Green policy, which includes recycling, low-flow toilets, and third-day bed linen changes on your longer stays.

Gardens Hotel (305-294-2661 or 1-800-526-2664; www.gardenshotel.com), 526 Angela St. Possibly the most luxurious Old Town guest house in Key West, the Gardens Hotel has rated inclusion in Condé Nast Traveler’s list of the world’s best places to stay for several years and was rated a readers choice by Trip Advisor in 2006. Gardens was the first hotel in Key West to GoGreen, and general manager Cindy DeRocher says it’s one of the best things they’ve done for hotel management, cost control, and guest satisfaction. “Not only is it good to be a good steward of the environment, it just makes sense,” says DeRocher. “Luxury isn’t a waste; luxury is the tranquility our guests get to experience here. It’s all about service and that’s what we do best.” For more than 30 years the Gardens Hotel was a private mansion with a carefully cultivated botanical garden, and in the 1990s the property was purchased and renovated into a hotel. Kate Miane, owner of Ambrosia and Ambrosia Too, bought the property for an unprecedented multimillion-dollar price tag, and neighbors waited with bated breath to see whether Ms. Miane could be as successful with this expansive and beautiful property as she has been with Ambrosia. She did not disappoint. Confidence was inspired by her first order of business—refreshing the gardens and bringing back the butterflies. Fresh, elegant, modern rooms and suites. $195–710.

The Grand Key West (305-294-0590 or 1-888-947-2630; www.thegrandguesthouse.com), 1116 Grinnell St., has been called one of the best deals in Key West. The Grand offers clean, simple rooms with refrigerators in a nontouristy residential neighborhood. Five blocks from Duval Street in historic Old Town, the Grand had been a private home and rooming house before its current incarnation as a small hotel. Continental breakfast. $98–268.

Heron House (305-294-9227 or 1-800-294-1644; www.heronhouse.com), 512 Simonton St., is lush, charming, and exclusive. Heron House has a private, sheltered atmosphere, as if complicit in sharing your secrets. Once inside its stone privacy wall, guests can gather around the pool or retreat on a private sundeck. A four-crown, four-diamond inn, Heron House is just a block off Duval Street. Rooms and suites available. $120–289.

Hog’s Breath Guesthouse (305-296-4222; www.hogsbreath.com/guesthouse.htm), 310 Elizabeth St. In need of a full house for a large group? The Hog’s Breath Guesthouse is often used to provide housing for entertainers at the popular nightclub. The 150-year old, two-story house has three bedrooms plus two-bedroom lofts and is fully furnished with washer and dryer, kitchen, private garden, and pool. It’s located near the waterfront and Mallory Square, just a few blocks from Duval Street. Three-night minimum, call for current rates.

La Mer Hotel & Dewey House (305-296-6577 or 1-800-354-4455; www.lamerhotel.com), 506 South St. One of the few beachfront historic properties in Key West, La Mer and Dewey House, built as a turn-of-the-20th-century guest house and private home, have been meticulously renovated by Southernmost Resorts. Both include continental breakfast and afternoon tea served on the oceanfront veranda and a morning paper. The Southernmost Hotel collection has been recognized by the state as the largest independently owned Green Lodging in the Florida Keys. $298–418.

LaTeDa Hotel and Bar (305-296-6706 or 1-877-528-3320; www.lateda.com), 1125 Duval St. The sultry and sophisticated nightclub here has a 30-year tradition of fame and is said to have the best drag show in town. The decor of the standard, deluxe, and luxury rooms includes traditional home-style furnishing and sleek wood floors, tile, mahogany furnishings, French doors that open onto the garden, Roman tubs (in the luxury rooms), data ports, and refrigerators. $100–375.

Marquesa Hotel (305-292-1919 or 1-800-869-4631; www.marquesa.com), 600 Fleming St. This complex of conch houses in Old Town has been transformed into award-winning luxurious rooms and suites with the finest amenities, from elegant marble baths to plush bathrobes. Lush gardens surround two refreshing pools, and a notable restaurant serves dinner on the premises if walking a block to Duval has lost its appeal. $345–520.

Old Customs House Inn (305-294-8507; www.oldcustomshouse.com), 124 Duval St. This historic home is set off from the street through a gate right on Duval, yet it’s private and charming thanks to gardens and trees that shade the porches and balconies. White wicker offsets the white picket fencing around the balconies, and rooms gleam with hardwood floors, tile accents, and Dade County pine furnishings. Studios and suites feature kitchenettes. Pets welcome, but call first. $90 and up.

HERON HOUSE

Trish Riley

Old Town Manor (305-292-2170 or 1-800-294-2170; www.oldtownmanor.com), 511 Eaton St. A blend of Victorian restoration and modern comfort, the Main House, built in 1886, and the William Skelton House, built in 1832, offer plush beds in fresh, sunny rooms, many with verandas overlooking lush historic gardens. Old Town Manor, formerly Eaton Lodge, was among the first lodgings to GoGreen in Key West.The private tropical garden offers a restful escape from the heart of Duval Street, just a block away. Old Town Manor offers some of the most affordable options for overnight travelers. Rooms and the two-bedroom Suite William are available. Pets welcome. $115–335.

Old Town Suites (305-296-5169 or 1-800-413-1978; www.oldtownsuites.com), two cottages, one on Petronia and the other on Center Street, with suites or rent the whole place. Some rooms have kitchens; others have coffeemakers, refrigerators, and microwaves; some have multiple beds for families, jacuzzi, or pool. $129–258.

Pearl’s Rainbow (305-292-1450; www.pearlsrainbow.com); 525 United St., is a resort exclusively for women with a range of rooms, two pools, and jacuzzis. Pearl’s Patio offers a lesbian happy hour daily. Pet friendly. Rooms $89–379.

Simonton Court Historic Inns and Cottages (305-294-6386 or 1-800-944-2687; www.simontoncourt.com), 320 Simonton St. A wide range of accommodations make up Simonton Court, from sleeping rooms in a manor or mansion to quaint cottages and elegant town houses, the largest with four bedrooms. Attention to details, decor, ambience, and atmosphere shows through such touches as tropical gardens, white linens, and natural wood floors. Hot tubs, pools, continental breakfast included. $150–400.

Suite Dreams (305-292-4713 or 1-800-730-2483; www.oldtownsuites.com), 1001 Von Phister St. Part of the luxury accommodations offered by Old Town Suites, which also owns Olivia by Duval, Suite Dreams is a gated home far removed from the hustle of Duval Street, in a suburban setting several blocks away from the tourist crowds. There’s a small pool and fishpond on the shared patio and a private pool and gourmet kitchen for the three-bedroom Super Suite. The beach is just a few blocks away. $100–500.

HOSTEL Seasoned hostelers will find comfort at the Key West Youth Hostel (305-296-5719 or 1-800-468-5516; www.keywesthostel.com), Seashell Motel, 718 South St. Strict rules make this a no-party place. Only 2 blocks from the beach, in Old Town, the hostel is never closed and offers 92 beds, free wireless Internet, kitchen facilities, and a courtyard. Rates $28 per night for hostel members; $31 for nonmembers. Bikes are available for rent.

HOTELS, MOTELS, AND RESORTS Banana Bay Resort Key West (305-296-6925; www.bananabay.com), 2319 N. Roosevelt Blvd. Set apart from the action at Sloppy Joe’s, but close enough to walk or bike into town, this resort caters to adults, with romantic rooms, a tropical pool, and fitness and business centers. A beachside gazebo is standing by for weddings, snorkel guides and wild dolphin charters are available, and if you bring your own boat (less than 25 feet), you can dock here for a daily fee. Fully equipped rooms; no kids under 16 or pets allowed. $90 and up.

Casa Marina Resort and Beach Club (305-296-3535 or 1-800-626-0777; www.casamarinakeywest.com), 1500 Reynolds St. Originally built by Henry Morrison Flagler for the tourists his train brought to town, this hotel now offers 311 rooms on the oceanfront, with a wide amount of beachfront set aside for guests’ use. Rooms are carefully maintained to ensure that guests can enjoy privilege and service. $359 and up.

Crowne Plaza La Concha (305-296-2991 or 1-800-745-2191; www.laconchakeywest.com), 430 Duval St. Built in 1925 during Key West’s heyday as the wealthiest city in the nation, La Concha is the tallest building on the island, with seven stories. The rooftop offers a popular public lookout over Duval Street at the Top of La Concha Bar, especially great for sunset viewing. With all the extra amenities you’d expect from Crowne Plaza resorts, rooms are standard issue with fine appointments, data ports, and room service at the push of a button. La Concha provides for those whose trust relies on familiar service. Pet friendly. $248–429.

Stay in style on an 1830s estate at the Key Lime Inn (305-294-5229 or 1-800-549-4430; www.keylimeinn.com), 725 Truman Ave., vintage motor-court cottages arranged around a central treed courtyard and swimming pool, with a grand 1854 Bahamian British colonial–style home of Walter C. Mahoney. The units include the fully renovated and comfortable cottages, built in 1939 by a former circus performer, and a handful of units in the historic home; Rooms 10 and 12 have access to the upper-story porch. There are 37 one-bedroom units and king rooms with a porch or patio and a country bed. Rates run $109 and up in the off-season, $189–309 during the high season, with surcharges for special events.

SUNSET VIEW OF KEY WEST FROM THE ROOF AT CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL

Trish Riley

Southernmost Hotel (305-296-6577 or 1-800-354-4455; www.southernmostresorts.com), 1319 Duval St., is indeed the southernmost hotel in the United States. Built in the 1950s, the hotel has been through major renovations to keep up with the fast-growing tourist industry on the island, so guests get a blended feeling of 1950s motel with 21st-century style. Some people prefer the group atmosphere, reliability, and service that’s professional, yet maintains the guests’ privacy and anonymity. The Southernmost Hotel provides a fine alternative to the many similarly priced guest houses, and it’s across the street from the beach. This hotel is part of the Southernmost Hotel Collection, a group of properties that make up the largest Green lodging in Key West and includes an oceanfront extension opened in December 2008. $89 and up.

The Southernmost House Grand Hotel and Museum (305-296-3141 or 1-866-764-6633; www.southernmosthouse.com), 1400 Duval St. Built in 1896, the Southernmost House is a stunning piece of Victorian architecture on the beach, saved from disintegration by a 1996 restoration costing $3 million. The house has hosted five presidents of the United States and has many museum pieces that reflect that history. Today guests can stay at the hotel, tour the museum, or spend the day enjoying the beachfront pool and bar. An all-day pass (fee) includes museum tour, use of the pool, beach, and a drink. Tours are held daily. Rooms are decorated in period antiques and offer oceanfront or garden views. $225–545.

Sunset Key Guest Cottages (305-292-5300 or 1-888-477-7786; www.sunsetkeyisland.com/resortmain.htm), 245 Front St. Relieve yourself of the congested pubs, restaurants, and shops clustered along Duval Street by staying a boat ride away. Ocean Properties Ltd. of Delray Beach bought what was once known as Tank Island and built a modern island-style village for your private retreat. Now called Sunset Key and franchised by Westin Hotels, the island offers clusters of cottages, all freshly appointed to ensure your comfort, even including a shopping service to stock your cottage with your favorite foods. Some are beachfront, others have views, and some look upon the pool instead, giving parents a nice chance to remain close while their children play. Tennis and basketball courts are on the grounds, in addition to a spa, and there are water sports and other activities. Guests may utilize the launch day and night to partake of city pleasures and then return to quiet island life. Guests may also request the services of a private chef to cook in their cottage, or the Latitudes Beach Café provides oceanside Caribbean dining for guests as well as visitors. If you like Sunset Key so much you don’t want to leave, you don’t have to. Single-family residences are available for sale. Sunset Key has been rated as the second best place to stay in the United States and Canada by Travel + Leisure. Minimum stays may apply. $595–2,295.

SUNSET KEY RESORT

Courtesy Sunset Key Resort

Where to Eat

Key West is a great place to eat. Excellent fresh seafood abounds and chefs make a point to treat it right. Many hotels and guest houses offer complimentary breakfasts to start your day, delectable lunches and appetizers tide you through the afternoon; but save your appetite and your pocketbook for an investment in a rich dinner—you’ll find plenty to satisfy your palate.

SUNSET KEY RESORT

Courtesy Sunset Key Resort

DINING OUT Alice’s at LaTeDa (305-296-5733; www.aliceskeywest.com), 1125 Duval St. Called New World Fusion Confusion by Bon Appétit, Alice Weingarten’s cuisine has won a long list of awards. Alice creates an always beautiful blend of Mediterranean, tropical, and traditional flavors and styles for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Try a seviche martini with gazpacho sidecar for a pair of flavors that are hard to choose between, or a pure passion salad with mango, goat cheese, almonds, and berries over fresh baby greens and topped with passion-fruit vinaigrette. Desserts are not to be bypassed, and don’t forget the after-dinner show in the Crystal Room—it’s the hottest drag show in the city. Entrées $15 and up.

Azur Restaurant (305-292-2987; www.azurkeywest.com), 425 Grinnell St. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner in the dining room or on the patio, all dishes promise a Mediterranean flair for culinary delight. From the charred octopus salad served with red peppers and lemon zest to grilled flatbread pizza or seared breast of duck served with wild mushrooms and artichokes, meals here seem to live up to the promise. Entrées $12 and up.

Blue Heaven (305-296-8666; www.blueheavenkw.com), 305 Petronia St. Blue Heaven is mostly outdoors, with chickens running underfoot and a hanging rope swing to entertain diners awaiting their brunch, lunch, or dinner. A rooftop dining area gets a breeze from surrounding trees, while those below benefit from shade provided by sails spread from the tree limbs. Caribbean flavors spice up the fare, reflecting perhaps this restaurant’s location in Bahama Village. Its popularity came like wildfire, netting national acclaim from all angles, but the fame hasn’t changed the atmosphere or spawned a chain. You can still enjoy a refreshing drink while watching the kids chase chickens and swing in the trees. Entrées $12 and up.

Café Marquesa (305-292-1919 or 1-800-869-4631; www.marquesa.com), 600 Fleming St. Chef Susan Ferry has made a name for herself and Café Marquesa that permeates the city like the fine sauces she creates to accompany the creative dishes she concocts. The small restaurant exudes its charm even when closed and empty, beckoning passersby to come in and enjoy such treats as heirloom eggplant, corn, and tomato salad with Brie or goat cheese, walnut-crusted rack of lamb, and Key lime napoleon with fruits and berries. Open for dinner only–reservations recommended. Entrées $21 and up.

DELICACIES FROM ALICE’S, KEY WEST

Courtesy Alice’s, Key West

Crabby Dick’s (305-294-7229; www.crabbydickskeywest.com), 712 Duval St. You can while away the afternoon here downing inexpensive draughts and nibbling cheap chicken wings, enjoying the breeze on the outdoor patio or the cool bar. Entrées $13.50 and up.

Kelly’s Caribbean Bar and Grill (305-293-8484; www.kellyskeywest.com), 301 Whitehead St. After rocketing to celebrity fame in Top Gun, actress Kelly McGillis came back to her hometown of Key West and opened a top-flight restaurant, where in the early days she could often be found serving as hostess. With a local writers’ library and its own brewery, Kelly’s provides a relaxing atmosphere for those seeking a higher plane. Impressive gourmet fare includes seafood dishes with Caribbean flair, such as sesame seared tuna and yellow-tail snapper served with tropical fruit, or keep it simple with chicken fettuccine or prime rib. Entrées start at $15.95.

La Trattoria (305-296-1075; www.latrattoria.us), 524 Duval St., is considered by many to be Key West’s best restaurant, with a basketful of People’s Choice Awards. La Trattoria seduces diners with a sophisticated atmosphere and then fattens them with stunningly delicious treats. And it’s not your standard issue Italian: here you’ll find superb blends of garlic, olive oil, tomato, and basil with ravioli, tortellini, penne, and gnocchi. After dinner be sure to make your way to the back of the restaurant, where you’ll be delighted to find a hidden little jazz bar, Virgilio’s, famous for its chocolate martinis. Entrées $13 and up.

Louie’s Backyard (305-294-1016; www.louiesbackyard.com), 700 Wad-dell Ave. The elegant indoor dining room looks out at the ocean, or dine outside, which is a bit more casual. It’s even more relaxed at the on-site After-deck Bar, where well-behaved, leashed dogs are welcome. Sandwiched between Dog Beach and an apartment once rented by Jimmy Buffett, this mansion, built at the turn of the 20th century by a wealthy wrecker, now offers inspired cuisine. Try the cracked conch roll with horseradish aioli or grilled scallops with spicy mango ketchup—you won’t soon forget it. Entrées $18 and up.

Food and art meet at Mangoes (352-292-4606; www.mangoeskeywest.com), 700 Duval St., an upscale restaurant featuring floral art from Piero Aversa, sculptures by John Martini, and plaster art from Sergio deVecchi. Infused with music, light, and the aromas from the kitchen, this is a delightful place for a meal. Executive Chef Paul Orchard oversees creations such as passion yellowtail snapper, which came dusted with toasted coconut and drizzled with a sour spicy mango passion-fruit sauce. The white conch chowder was luscious and creamy, and the tomato bisque tart had a hint of cheese. Choose from a tempting selection of desserts, including a crème brûlée, delicate and silky with a lingering cappuccino taste, a perfect accompaniment to that after-dinner coffee. Perfection doesn’t come cheap—expect to drop $75 for a meal for two. Pets welcome.

Pisces “A Seafood Place” presented by Café Des Artistes (305-294-7100; www.pisceskeywest.com), 1007 Simonton St. Same owner, same chef—different name. Café Des Artistes began in 1982 and underwent renovation in 2002. Much of the architecture of the original building (circa 1892) was restored, setting the stage for an incredible meal. Owner Timothy Ryan thought that with a fresh new look, the restaurant needed a new name, and Pisces was chosen to reflect the “fruits from the sea” concept. Buttery walls accented with plum drapes surround tables set with crisp white linens placed with half wall dividers, so intimate conversations can be held in private. Walls are decorated with original signed Andy Warhol prints, from owner Timothy Ryan’s personal collection, framed within architectural arches. You’ll especially enjoy the portraits of Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jagger, along with the famous Campbell’s Tomato Soup and Cow 1971. Chef Andrew Berman creates magic with seafood, and his famous Lobster Tango Mango—shelled Maine lobster flambéed in cognac with shrimp in saffron butter, mango, and basil is a winner. You’ll also want to try the Aphrodite Pisces, lobster, shrimp, and sea scallops baked in puff pastry with lemon tarragon butter; Yellowtail Snapper Atocha, with lemon brown butter, avocadoes, mint, and peas; and house favorite Raspberry Duck. Save room for the flambéed Rhum Baba, with white chocolate mousse, fresh berries, and mango sauce ($9) or chocolate fondant, an upside-down chocolate soufflé with pistachio and warm Valrhona chocolate sauce ($9). A glass of late harvest dessert wine ($9–15) is a great way to finish it all off. Appetizers $8–24; entrées $27–44. Reservations strongly recommended.

EATING OUT Savor a glass of cabernet while Dino croons at Abbondanza (305-292-1199), 1208 Simonton St., a comfortable Italian restaurant that offers all the classic dishes—including spaghetti Calabrese, with peppers, onions, and spicy sausage, and linguine pescatore, with shrimp, scallops, clams, and mussels. Entrées $9–18.

At Alonzo’s Oyster Bar (305-294-5880; www.alonzosoysterbar.com), 700 Front St., oysters are the thing—brought in fresh and prepared fresh. Try the Dixie Oyster Spinach Salad, with fried oysters, bacon, hard-boiled egg, and mango touched with passion-fruit vinaigrette atop a bed of baby spinach, or oysters prepared with spinach Parmesan, andouille, or Key lime garlic. The oysters come from around the country; daily raw selections are listed on the chalkboard. Entrées $14–19.

Since 1851, Captain Tony’s Saloon (305-294-1838; www.capttonyssaloon.com), 428 Greene St., has been the favorite watering hole of thirsty souls, from wreckers to writers. In the early 1900s it was a cigar factory, bordello, and favorite speakeasy. From 1928 to 1939, Ernest Hemingway met his friends here faithfully every afternoon at 3:30 for a scotch and soda while he was working on such books as Death in the Afternoon and To Have and Have Not. Hemingway’s bar stool is still on view. The 1970s brought Jimmy Buffett and the Coral Reefer Band to the pub for impromptu sessions, and today you’ll find a variety of talent, with music and a bit of mayhem nightly.

For the best Cuban con leche, head over to The Five Brothers Grocery (305-296-5205), 930 Southard St., at the corner of Grinnell. This tiny corner grocery store goes through 24 pounds of authentic Cuban coffee a day and is a great place for Cuban sandwiches.

You come to the Green Parrot (1-800-901-9552; www.greenparrot.com), corner of Whitehead and Southard Sts., to drink, not eat. With lots of ice-cold beer and tropical concoctions, you won’t go thirsty. This legendary landmark, the last bar on US 1, pumps out great music all the time, and the must-see, one-of-a-kind watering hole has been serving great drinks, darts, and pool since 1890. The bar bills itself as “a sunny place for shady people,” but don’t be hesitant to scope it out—it really isn’t as scary as it looks. Can’t wait to see it? There’s a live Web cam on their Web site. For those who want to poke their heads in just to say they were there, there’s a great gift shop on-site for souvenirs.

Hog’s Breath Saloon (305-292-2032; www.hogsbreath.com), 400 Front St. How about a Hog’s Breath T-shirt, hat, or beer cup? This Keys club has become a famous brand. It’s a fine place for a semi-outdoor evening drink and a little admirable live music. (It’s the home of the Key West Songwriters Festival each May; www.keywestsongwritersfestival.com.) Enjoy fine wings and fish dip—spiced up with Hog’s Breath own hot sauce—burgers, or fish of all kinds. Remember, Hog’s Breath is better than no breath at all! Entrées $12 and up.

Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville Café (305-292-1435; www.margaritaville.com), 500 Duval St., is a must-stop for the infamous Cheeseburger in Paradise ($9), served just like the song says, or the broiled yellowtail snapper sandwich ($10). Wash it all down with one of seven fresh fruit margaritas ($6), such as passion fruit or banana, or order up the original Margaritaville Gold Margarita ($6).

At Sloppy Joe’s (305-294-5717; www.sloppyjoes.com), 201 Duval St., their namesake sandwich is big, drippy, and sweet, and the chili comes tomato-thick with a bit of a kick. The sliced potato salad is something right out of my childhood. But most folks don’t come here for the food; they’re here for the legendary drink, from margaritas and Rum Runners to a one-and-a-half-ounce pour on your favorite liquor. Touting themselves as Hemingway’s favorite bar, they’ve been here since 1937.

Turtle Kraals Bar and Restaurant (305-294-2640; www.turtlekraals.com), 1 Lands End Village. It’s hard to eat here without reflecting on the fact that this was once a turtle cannery, but just remind yourself that those days are over now. Order a salad, gazpacho, or spinach and artichoke dip if it makes you feel better. Enjoy the open-air view of the waterfront and seaport, and relish the historic charm that emanates from the walls. Or go ahead and indulge in the Cuban- and Southwest-flavored seafood that’s famous here, like lobster chile rellenos or mojo grilled shrimp. Wash it down with a bottle of Key West Sunset Ale, and relax in the salty breeze. Entrées $10 and up.

ICE CREAM PARLORS If you love ice cream, you must not miss Flamingo Crossing (305-296-6124), 1105 Duval St., where their homemade gelato flavors range into the tropical, including soursop, guava, papaya, mango, and passion fruit. Their Rum Runner sorbet is like a water ice, satisfying and light; the coconut gelato is a thick sweet cream bursting with flavor. Also available are Floridian favorites: Cuban coffee and, of course, Key lime.

At the Key West Ice Cream Factory (305-295-3011; www.keywesticecreamfactory.com), 201 William St., enjoy homemade ice cream flavors packed with fresh tropical fruit, premium tropical smoothies, and their original-recipe Key lime pie ice cream.

Entertainment

THEATER Professional theater, live comedy, drama, music, and cabaret shows are presented November through July at the Red Barn Theatre (305-296-9911 or 1-866-870-9911; www.redbarntheatre.com), 319 Duval St. Main-stage shows run Tues.–Sat. at 8 PM. Advanced tickets $25, opening night $29; senior citizens, military, and students receive a 10 percent discount.

At the Tennessee Williams Theatre (305-296-1520; www.twstages.com), 5901 College Rd., you’ll enjoy great theatrical performances along with art exhibitions, festivals, fund-raisers, and community events. Indoors, the 480-seat theater has added 250 seats in their new Grand Foyer, allowing for intimate recitals and poetry readings. The Grand Foyer can also be converted to bistro seating for cabaret shows. Outdoors overlooking the water, performances can accommodate 2,500 guests.

You’ll find Florida’s oldest continuously running theater over at Mallory Square. The Waterfront Playhouse (305-294-5015; www.waterfrontplayhouse.com), 310 Wall St., has been presenting live theater since 1940, with an array of productions. You may see such musical productions as Little Shop of Horrors, dramas such as A Streetcar Named Desire, and innovative works such as Naked Boys Singing. Tickets $30–35.

Selective Shopping

When traveling in and out of Key West, make sure to pull over at MM 15 to Baby’s Coffee (305-744-9866 or 1-800-523-2326; www.babyscoffee.com), 3178 US 1 (oceanside), Saddlebunch Key, for a great cup of coffee and bakery snacks. (See Eating Out in Lower Keys.)

The best Key lime pie is found at Blond Giraffe (www.blondgiraffe.com), where owners Roberto and Tania Madeira serve a variety of edible Key lime delights, such as the incredible Key lime pie wrapped in chocolate served on a stick. You’ll also find a nice selection of bath products, such as their Key Lime Goat Soap. Three locations: 629 Duval St. (305-293-6998); 1209 Truman Ave. (305-295-6776); and their factory store at 107 Simonton St. (305-296-9174). Watch the pies being made!

You’ll find an elegant and sophisticated, but not stuffy, boutique at Blue (305-292-5172; www.blueislandstore.com), 718 Caroline St. It has a great mix of casual and dressy wear, and I was able to find the neatest, super-soft T-shirts, along with some elegant cocktail outfits. The shop specializes in smart, wearable women’s clothing, shoes, purses, and hats. Open daily.

Playful and satirical chicken-related gifts line the shelves at The Chicken Store (305-394-3542; www.theChickenStore.com), 1227 Duval St., which is home to the Rooster Rescue Team. For a donation, you can slip into a cottage filled with rescued gypsy chickens, part of Key West’s long legacy of foraging fowl. Open 10 AM–5 PM daily.

Cigar aficionados will want to check out Conch Republic Cigar Factory (1-800-317-2167; www.conch-cigars.com), 512 Greene Stand Key West Havana Cigar Company (305-296-2680; www.keywestcigar.com), 1121 Duval St.

An otherworldly gift shop awaits you at Ghost Tours of Key West (305-294-9255; www.hauntedtours.com), 423 Duval St., located at the Crowne Plaza La Concha Hotel. (See To Do for more information about the ghost tours.)

At the Helio Gallery Store (305-294-7901; www.heliographics.com), 814 Fleming St., you’ll find great designs inspired by nature, such as botanical prints, pillows, table runners, totes, and textiles decorated with large banana leaves, coconut palms, butterflies, and more. Open 10 AM–6 PM daily.

From doorstops and footstools to pillows and purses, you’ll find great stitchery over at Julie Pischke Needlepoint Designs (305-296-6091; www.islandneedlepoint.com), 527 Fleming St., where owner and designer Julie Pischke features her award-winning tropical needlepoint designs. Open Tues.–Sat.

Mary O’Shea’s Glass Garden (305-293-8822; www.keywestglass.com), 613 Eaton St. Visit Mary for a friendly chat and to view her glass creations of jewelry, dishes, artwork, and more. Open 10 AM–5 PM Mon.–Sat.

COCKS RULE IN KEY WEST

Trish Riley

Don’t leave Key West without something from Key West Handprint Fabrics (305-294-9535 or 1-800-866-0333; www.keywestfashions.com), 201 Simonton St., where you’ll find colorful, original hand-print fabrics by local Key West artists. Ladies can select from dresses, skirts, capris, shorts, and assorted jewelry, and men will go wild for their tropical parrot shirts. Girls will want an outfit from their “Mommy & Me” collection. For those who love to sew, fabrics by the yard are $16–26, with quilting squares also available to commemorate your trip.

Since 1976, the Key West Kite Company (305-296-2535; www.keywestkites.com), 408 Green St., has made the skies more colorful with their large selection of kites, windsocks, banners, flags, and more. You find an array of single lines, deltas, and parafoils, along with radical frameless stunt kites for kite surfing.

Enjoy unique, tropical wines at The Key West Winery (305-292-1717; www.thekeywestwinery.com), 103 Simonton St. The Key Limen wine tastes like a margarita, while the Category 5 white sangria honors hurricanes with a blend of their Key Limen, pineapple, mango, watermelon, and passion fruit wines. You’ll also find edible Key lime treats and wine accessories. Open daily, with free wine tastings.

Everyone on land and sea seems to be wearing Kinos Sandals (305-294-5044; www.kinosandalfactory.com), 107 Fitzpatrick St. Walk into the small factory shop and you’ll see busy shoemakers assembling these comfortable and durable flip-flops. It all began in 1966 with Cuban refugees Roberto “Kino” and Margarita Lopez. Roberto had a shoe factory back in Cuba, and he longed to continue his business, but first he needed to save for it. After years as a handyman, he finally had enough to open his factory, and it has been a local favorite ever since. These affordable sandals never seem to wear out. I’ve had my “Chain” ($11) sandal for three years, and they still look like the day I bought them, despite traipsing through South Florida storms. The “Lili” is the most common style seen on the docks, and it comes in a half dozen colors and in both women’s ($11) and men’s ($13) sizes. They also have one style for kids ($8). You’ll need to check back often, as not all styles and sizes are on hand all the time.

Nellie & Joe’s Key Lime Juice (1-800-LIME-PIE; www.keylimejuice.com) is the maker of the original Key West Lime Juice. Beginning 30 years ago in their kitchen, Nellie & Joe’s can now be ordered through the Internet or picked up at a variety of stores throughout the United States. You’ll find a great selection of their products at Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe (305-296-0806; www.keylimeshop.com), 200A Elizabeth St., where you can also enjoy a hot cup of coffee and a fresh slice of Key lime pie outside in the beautiful garden. Make sure to stop by during the holidays, as Kermit festively decorates the outside of the store into an award-winning gingerbread house. Kermit is also known for his support of local organizations in the area, such as the Monroe Association for Retarded Citizens, Inc (www.marchouse.org). He pays his staff a fair wage, so they donate 90 percent of all tips received toward this worthwhile organization. Whitehead Street Pottery (305-294-5067; www.whiteheadstreetpottery.com), 322 Julia St., specializes in stoneware, porcelain, and raku-fired containers. Open 10 AM–5 PM; closed Tues.

TEDDI ADMIRES MARY O’SHEA’S GLASS GARDEN IN KEY WEST

Trish Riley

Special Events

For information on the following events, contact the Key West Chamber of Commerce (305-294-2587; www.keywestchamber.org) and check out www.fla-keys.com for additional contact numbers.

January: Big-name sailing skippers compete for five days in North America’s largest midwinter yachting races at the Acura Key West Regatta (www.premiere-racing.com).

Now more than 20 years old, the Key West Literary Seminar (1-888-293-9291; www.KeyWestLiterarySeminar.org), held midmonth, brings in authors from around the world who hold workshops and readings for the likes of you and me, aspiring novelists and fans alike. This two-week festival celebrates the island’s long-standing love affair with literature, from the plays of Tennessee Williams to the short stories of John Hershey—and, of course, the Hemingway classics.

You’ll see exquisite homes on the Old Island Days House and Garden Tour (www.oirf.org), also offered in February and March.

February: Over at Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park (www.floridastateparks.org/forttaylor), the Annual Civil War Heritage Festival (305-295-3033) re-creates the Civil War with a mock land and sea battle.

More than 100 artisans showcase their talents at the Annual Old Island Days Art Festival, held in the historic Old Town district along Whitehead Street from Greene to Caroline Streets.

You’ll get a chance to tour ginger-bread-style Victorians and contemporary homes on the Old Island Days House and Garden Tour (also offered Jan. and Mar.).

March: You won’t want to miss the Annual Conch Shell Blowing Contest (www.oirf.org/events), an island tradition. Contestants compete in an attempt to make music on the fluted conch shells.

Check out extraordinary architecture and gardens at the Old Island Days House and Garden Tour (also offered Jan. and Feb.).

April: Attend the poetry-writing workshop to hone up on your lyrical skills at the Annual Robert Frost Poetry Festival (www.robertfrostpoetryfestival.com), held at the Heritage House Museum (see Museums).

For more than two decades, the Conch Republic Independence Celebration (www.conchrepublic.com) has been held to commemorate the Conch Republic, which was founded in 1982 after response to the U.S. Border Patrol road-blocking traffic in and out of the Keys. Events include parades, drag races, and, of course, lots of partying.

The Taste of Key West presents the area’s best culinary delights for the annual benefit held at the Truman Waterfront.

May: Offshore captains will want to seek the $15,000 prize at the Annual Dolphin Masters Invitational.

Musical sounds are heard at the Key West Songwriters Festival (www.kwswf.com), where you can see some of America’s best songwriters performing in intimate surroundings.

June: Ladies get a chance to catch the big one at the Annual Conch Republic Ladies’ Dolphin Tournament, with prizes totaling $7,500.

From Jose Marti to conga lines, Hispanic customs and cultures are brought to life at the Annual Cuban American Heritage Festival (www.cubanfest.com).

Celebrating the island’s most loved and hated fowl, Chickenfest, held mid-month, is four days of fun that includes arts and crafts, food, the Poultry in Motion parade, and lots of crazy events, such as the Shake Your Feathers chicken show, Chicken Soup for the Conch Soul, Chicken Scratch Nine-Hole Miniature Golf Tournament, and the Fowl Follies.

The Key West Gator Club Dolphin Derby (www.keywest.gatorclub.com) chases down the colorful fish while raising money for college scholarships.

The annual Pridefest (www.pridefestkeywest.com) celebrates the gay community in Key West with parades and events throughout the city.

July: The Del Brown Permit Tournament celebrates the angling pioneer who fly-fished more than 500 of these hard-fighting fish. The most challenging fish in fly-fishing, fishers can be found in grass and sandy flats, searching for their favorite food—crabs.

Anglers fish in the tropical shallows at the Flats Slam Event of the Key West Fishing Tournament Series.

You’ll think you’re seeing double at the Hemingway Days Festival (www.fla-keys.com/hemingwaymedia), where “Papa” seemingly is spotted throughout town at this annual event celebrating the author and his lifestyle. Bearded men compete at the look-alike contest over at Sloppy Joe’s Bar on Duval Street. The festival also includes the Drambuie Key West Marlin Tournament, the top event for the mightiest of the offshore species, with $250,000 in prize money.

With a focus on preservation, the annual Reef Awareness Week offers a variety of ecotours and environmental education. Call Reef Relief at 305-294-3100 or log on to www.reefrelief.org to learn more about the delicate coral reefs just offshore.

September: The women take over the city at WomenFest (www.womenfest.com), a lesbian-oriented event, which presents a variety of art, music, comedy, parties, and fun in the sun.

October: The one, the only, not-to-be-missed event is Fantasy Fest (www.fantasyfest.net), where for 10 days the town is packed with costumed participants in the mother of all costume competitions. Features a lavish, and R-rated, parade.

The two-day Goombay Festival (www.goombay-keywest.org) pours into the streets of Key West’s historic Bahama Village with island-style food, fun, and frolic in Caribbean traditions.

November: “Go fast” powerboats race in the Key West Offshore World Championships. The annual event is described as the Indianapolis 500 of powerboat racing.

December: The Bahama Conch Community Land Trust presents the Annual Key West Island Kwanzaa festival the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Events include African-themed ceremonies, rituals, and feasts.

POLYDACTYL VERSUS POULTRY

Which came first in Key West, the chickens or the cats? According to historians, the cats arrived in the 1500s, escaping from anchored Spanish explorer ships, and later bred with a six-toed polydactyl (many-fingered) cat given to Ernest Hemingway by a visiting ship’s captain, possibly from Boston, where the largest population of polydactyl cats can be found. The ubiquitous roaming chickens came later, in the 1800s, when early pioneers brought them down through the Keys for a food source. Now protected, both run amok through the streets of Key West and are controlled to a certain extent through cat adoption clinics, spay/neuter programs, and “chicken lifts” that relocate some of the island’s more than 2,000 fowl to farms in central Florida. You’ll find more than 50 descendants of the famous writer’s cats lovingly cared for at Hemingway’s house (see Museums), while feral cats are equally adored and never have to venture too far for a free meal. Chicken lovers should make sure to stop at the Chicken Store on Duval Street (see Selective Shopping) and take part in the annual Chickenfest, a clucking good celebration held each June (see Special Events).