Zahav
Society Hill
237 St. James Place
(215) 625-8800
Chef-owner Michael Solomonov struggles with how to define Zahav, his exuberant Society Hill restaurant: “I guess most people would call it modern Israeli. The irony is, there’s nothing like this is Israel.” Instead, the chef borrows from Israel’s exotic pantry—filled with flavors from each culture that has called the region home—to create dishes that might more properly be called “modern Solomonov.”
This is Israel through the eyes of an Israeli-born, Pittsburgh-raised, James Beard award–winning chef with an affection for culinary history and Korean fried chicken (the latter indulged by his more recent project, Federal Donuts). That Solo—as he is widely known—is cooking for an audience that may have never heard of labneh, kibbe, or mujadara hasn’t dampened his enthusiasm or the restaurant’s popularity: “Ten years ago, there wouldn’t have been a Zahav, but people are more willing to try things now. We go through fifteen pounds of duck hearts a week.” (Grilled with a carrot-turnip salad and onion puree.)
© ALEXANDRA HAWKINS
Solomonov and his business partner Steven Cook are also behind the all-day cafe K’Far (page 5), run by James Beard Rising Star award-winning Camille Cogswell, plus Abe Fisher, Goldie, Dizengoff, Laser Wolf, Merkaz, and Federal Donuts, but even with such a busy schedule you’ll often find the chef at the bread station at Zahav, shoveling dimpled loaves of laffa in and out of the taboon while eyeballing the dining room. His and Cook’s careful shepherding of Zahav is a main reason it won the James Beard Foundation’s highest honors in 2019: best restaurant in the country.
© OLIVIA CACERES
CHICKEN FREEKEH
“I always start with the ingredient here and pick a culture there,” says Zahav chef-owner Michael Solomonov. “This is a pretty simple rice pilaf with Amish chicken and flavors from Jordan and Egypt. The secret is the cinnamon.”
(SERVES 4)
2 cups chicken stock
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
3 sprigs cilantro, stems and leaves separated
2 sticks cinnamon
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Kosher salt and black pepper, as needed
2 tablespoons chicken fat or olive oil
2 tablespoons Spanish onion, diced
⅔ cup freekeh (available at Middle Eastern markets)
4 tablespoon slivered almonds, toasted
In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring chicken stock with peppercorns, cilantro stems, and cinnamon to a simmer. Season chicken breasts with salt and poach in simmering broth until cooked through, approximately 15 minutes. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Strain and reserve broth.
Warm chicken fat or olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until translucent, approximately 5 minutes. Season with salt. Add freekeh and cook over medium heat until the freekeh is fragrant and well-coated with the chicken fat or olive oil. Add half of reserved broth and continue to cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the liquid is fully absorbed. Repeat with remaining broth and cook until freekeh is al dente but not dry. Using two forks, shred chicken and fold into the freekeh, with toasted almonds and cilantro leaves. Season with salt and pepper.
WHOLE ROASTED LAMB SHOULDER WITH POMEGRANATE
“This was the first thing we ever made at Zahav. When it was still under construction, we had a seder at the restaurant,” says Zahav chef-owner Michael Solomonov. “I had lamb shoulder around, and lamb and pomegranate are a classic. When we tried it, it was, ‘Dude, we have to have this on the menu.’” Note: Lamb shoulder must be marinated for 2 days. Chickpeas must be soaked overnight.
(SERVES 4)
For the brine:
3 gallons water
6 cups kosher salt
1½ cups granulated sugar
1 pound garlic bulbs, bulbs cut in half
½ cup whole allspice
½ cup black peppercorns
½ cup fennel seeds
12 stems parsley
12 stems savory
For the lamb shoulder:
1 bone-in lamb shoulder (about 6 pounds)
4 cups dried chickpeas
1 teaspoon baking soda
4 cups pomegranate juice
4 cups water
2 sprigs mint
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
Special equipment: Charcoal grill
To prepare the brine: Combine all ingredients for the brine in a large saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Chill thoroughly before using.
To prepare the lamb shoulder: Using a fork, puncture lamb shoulder on all sides. Submerge lamb in brine for 48 hours, using a weight if necessary to keep lamb completely submerged.
Soak chickpeas in water with baking soda overnight.
Prepare a charcoal fire. Remove lamb from brine and pat dry. Grill lamb over indirect heat for about 45 minutes, being careful to avoid flare-ups from dripping fat.
Preheat oven to 350˚F. Remove lamb from grill and place in a deep roasting pan. Drain chickpeas and rinse in cold water. Add chickpeas and pomegranate juice to roasting pan. Add water to just cover lamb. Cover roasting pan with a double layer of aluminum foil and place in oven. Braise lamb, basting meat with braising liquid once each hour until meat easily separates from the bone, about 5 hours.
Remove from oven and allow lamb to rest in braising liquid for 1 hour. Remove lamb from roasting pan and transfer braising liquid to a large saucepan. Simmer liquid over medium-high heat, skimming regularly to remove fat. When the braising liquid coats the back of a spoon and is reduced to about 4 cups, remove from heat. Add mint and parsley.
Preheat oven to 450˚F. Return lamb to roasting pan and top with 1 cup braising liquid. Roast lamb until caramelized, about 5 minutes.
To serve: Remove lamb to a warm platter. Spoon reduced braising liquid and chickpeas on top of lamb. Serve immediately.
© ALEXANDRA HAWKINS