Amada
Old City
217–219 Chestnut Street
(215) 625-2450
Amada was Philadelphia’s first taste of what was to come from chef-turned-restaurateur Jose Garces. Later there would be the rapid-fire openings (Distrito, page 17), the James Beard award, The Next Iron Chef victory, an expansion to other markets near (Atlantic City) and far (Palm Springs), a rash of closings, and an acquisition of the Garces Group. But before all those highs and lows, there was tortilla Española with saffron aioli, piquillos rellenos stuffed with tender crab, tender calamari seared a la plancha, and spicy patatas bravas, a luxe version of the equally addictive Tater Tot.
Amada, which opened in 2005, was the restaurant Garces had wanted to open since his days in culinary school, when he wrote a strikingly similar business plan for a class: a Spanish tapas restaurant that captured both traditional Iberian flavors—serrano ham, manchego, chorizo, spiked with olives, vinegars, citrus—and the vibe of the country’s tapas bars. In Barcelona, tapeo is more than a culinary phenomenon; it’s also a cultural one. In those crowded environs, tapas is as much about conversation as it is about charcuteria.
Garces’s dream restaurant took on more details during a stint cooking in Andalusia, Spain. “The sangria barrels behind the bar, the hanging hams, the charcuterie slicer—all those elements transport me back to my days in Spain,” says Garces, mentally walking through the stylish, evocative dining rooms.
“I want to transport Philadelphians. I want to give them a true, authentic Spanish experience, to give them that true festive feel of Spain,” says Garces.
PAELLA VALENCIANA
“Start to finish the cook makes the paella at Amada to order,” says Amada chef-owner Jose Garces. “I want it to be an authentic food experience for our customer. There are a few things here you wouldn’t see in Spain, like the herb salad on top of the paella. It’s not traditional, but it cuts the richness and gives the dish a freshness.”
(SERVES 2)
3½ cups chicken broth
Pinch of saffron
Kosher salt and black pepper, as needed
1¼ cups Spanish onion, diced, divided
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ cups bomba rice
½ cup frozen peas
¼ cup piquillo peppers, julienned
3 ounces chorizo, diced
© GETTY IMAGES
10 mussels
8 cherrystone clams or cockles
5 shrimp
2 tablespoons black olives, julienned
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped, plus ¼ cup whole flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 large shallot, minced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
¼ cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 boneless, skinless chicken breast
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Preheat oven to 350°F.
In a saucepan over high heat, bring chicken broth to a boil. Add pinch of saffron and season with salt. Reduce heat and simmer until reduced to 1½ cups, about 30 minutes.
In a paella pan or large cast-iron pan over medium-high heat, sauté 1 cup onion in 2 tablespoons olive oil and butter. In a large bowl, combine rice, saffron chicken broth, peas, piquillo peppers, chorizo, mussels, clams or cockles, shrimp, black olives, and chopped parsley. Season with salt. Transfer mixture to pan. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and cook in the oven for 25 minutes.
To prepare a vinaigrette, combine shallot, lemon juice, olive oil, and sugar and whisk until sugar is dissolved. Season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine whole parsley leaves, tomatoes, and remaining ¼ cup onion. Toss with vinaigrette. Place salad on top of paella.
Sear or grill chicken breast until cooked through. Slice and place on top of paella. Squeeze 2 lemon wedges over paella. Garnish with remaining lemon wedges.