Italian Market
1009 South 8th Street
(215) 965-8290
There used to be a vaunted French bistro in this tiny, unexpected space, slipped in between the Italian butchers and Mexican markets of 9th Street and the Vietnamese flavors of Washington Avenue. It was called Pif, and diners mourned its closing in 2007.
Now there is an even more celebrated French bistro—just thirty-two seats and a peekaboo kitchen—in the same small space, making an escargot and bone marrow statement in a neighborhood better known for ravioli, tacos al pastor, and pho. Bienvenue a Bibou.
Charlotte Calmels gracefully runs Bibou’s simple peach-and-gray dining room, managing eager diners and a constantly ringing phone. In the small kitchen, her husband, Pierre, a Le Bec-Fin alum, turns out a menu of uncomplicated French dishes that remind diners not so much of the still-missed Pif as the ideal mom-and-pop bistro somewhere in France.
Calmels’s confident flavors—foie gras-stuffed pig foot, juniper-scented sweet breads, crisp-skinned roasted duck—are a favorite among the city’s wine lovers, who tote trophy wines for joyful dinners at the unfussy BYOB and make standing weekly reservations for the tough-to-get tables. Well-known wine expert Robert Parker is a fan, writing that Bibou “might be the best French bistro in the entire country,” and, perhaps an even greater compliment, opening more than a dozen cellared wines at one dinner. And the warm, welcoming restaurant has earned raves from local and national food critics, including a spot on GQ’s 10 Best New Restaurants of the Year and a Best New Restaurant nomination from the James Beard Foundation.
“There is texture and color on this plate,” says Bibou chef-owner Pierre Calmels. “We use a beautiful, tender duck. The sauce is rich and smooth. The asparagus brings freshness and crispness. And I love potatoes.”
(SERVES 4)
2 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and grated
Kosher salt and black pepper, as needed
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 teaspoons unsalted butter, divided
1 pound asparagus
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Kosher salt, as needed
1 shallot, chopped
Chopped parsley, as needed
4 duck breasts, skin on
2 shallots, sliced
2 sprigs thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed
1 cup red wine
1 cup veal demi-glace (available at gourmet stores)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Kosher salt and black pepper, as needed
To prepare the potato crique: Preheat oven to 350°F.
Season potatoes with salt and pepper. In a 4-inch cast-iron pan over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. When hot, add one-quarter of potatoes, pressing to extract as much moisture as possible. Cook 30 seconds. Add 3¼-teaspoon pieces of butter to top of potatoes. Continue to cook until butter melts and potatoes start to brown. Flip potato and transfer to oven, cooking for 4–5 minutes.
Repeat with remaining ingredients.
To prepare the asparagus: Trim asparagus stems to remove the woody base. Cut asparagus tips, about 1½ inches long. Chop remaining asparagus.
In a sauté pan over medium heat, melt butter. Sauté asparagus tips for 2 minutes. Season with salt. Add chopped asparagus and shallots and continue cooking for 1 minute. Remove from heat and add parsley.
To prepare the duck: Sear duck breasts in a sauté pan over medium heat, skin side down, until crispy. Flip duck breast and cook 3–4 minutes. Remove duck breasts to a rack, skin side down. Discard all but 1 teaspoon duck fat from pan.
Using the same pan, over medium heat, sauté shal-lots until lightly browned. Add thyme and pepper-corns. Cook for 2 minutes. Deglaze with wine and cook until wine reduces by one-third. Add demi-glace and bring to a simmer. Add butter. Strain sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve: In a separate sauté pan, re-sear duck breast, skin side down, to crisp. Flip duck breast and reheat, if necessary. Slice duck breasts. Divide duck breast between four plates. Serve with potato crique and asparagus. Top with sauce.