With stunning landscapes, superb highways and one of the world’s most scenic and comprehensive secondary road networks, France is a road-tripper’s dream come true.
ROAD TRIP WEBSITES
AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATIONS
RAC (www.rac.co.uk/driving-abroad/france) Info for British drivers on driving in France.
CONDITIONS & TRAFFIC
Bison Futé (www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr)
Les Sociétés d’Autoroutes (www.autoroutes.fr)
ROUTE MAPPING
Mappy (www.mappy.fr)
Via Michelin (www.viamichelin.com)
DRIVING LICENCE & DOCUMENTS
Drivers must carry the following at all times:
A passport or an EU national ID card
A valid driving licence (permis de conduire; most foreign licences can be used in France for up to a year)
A car-ownership papers, known as a carte grise (grey card)
A proof of third-party liability assurance (insurance)
An International Driving Permit (IDP) is not required when renting a car but can be useful in the event of an accident or police stop, as it translates and vouches for the authenticity of your home licence.
DRIVING FAST FACTS
Right or left? Drive on the right
Legal driving age 18
Top speed limit 130km/h on autoroutes (highways, motorways)
Signature car Citroën 2CV
INSURANCE
Third-party liability insurance (assurance au tiers) is compulsory for all vehicles in France, including cars brought in from abroad. Normally, cars registered and insured in other European countries can circulate freely in France, but it’s a good idea to contact your insurance company before you leave home to make sure you have coverage – and to check whom to contact in case of a breakdown or accident.
If you get into a minor accident with no injuries, the easiest way for drivers to sort things out with their insurance companies is to fill out a Constat Aimable d’Accident Automobile (European Accident Statement), a standardised way of recording important details about what happened. In rental cars it’s usually in the packet of documents in the glove compartment. Make sure the report includes any information that will help you prove that the accident was not your fault. Remember, if it was your fault you may be liable for a hefty insurance deductible/excess. Don’t sign anything you don’t fully understand.
If problems crop up, call the police (
17).
French-registered cars have details of their insurance company printed on a little green square affixed to the windscreen.
LOCAL EXPERT: DRIVING TIPS
Driving tips for France from Bert Morris, research consultant for IAM (www.iam.org.uk) and former motoring policy director for the AA:
AFirst thing if you’re British: watch your instinct to drive on the left. Once I was leaving a supermarket using the left-turn exit lane. I turned by instinct into the left lane of the street and nearly had a head-on collision. My golden rule: when leaving a parking lot, petrol station or motorway off-ramp, do it on the right and your instinct to stay right will kick in.
AFrench law says to give way to traffic on the right, even when you’re on a main road. So I advise people to ease off on the foot whenever you get to a junction.
ANever go below a third of a tank, even if you think there’s cheaper petrol further down the road; sometimes the next station’s a long way off. My approach is, don’t fret about cost; you’re on holiday!
HIRING A CAR
To hire a car in France, you’ll generally need to be over 21 years old, have had a driving licence for at least a year, and have an international credit card. Drivers under 25 usually have to pay a surcharge (frais jeune conducteur) of €25 to €35 per day.
Car-hire companies provide mandatory third-party liability insurance, but things such as collision-damage waivers (CDW, or assurance tous risques) vary greatly between companies. When comparing rates and conditions, the most important thing to check is the franchise (deductible/excess), which for a small car is usually around €600 for damage and €800 for theft. With many companies, you can reduce the excess by half, and perhaps to zero, by paying a daily insurance supplement of up to €20. Your credit card may cover CDW if you use it to pay for the rental, but the car-hire company won’t know anything about this – verify conditions and details with your credit-card issuer to be sure.
Arranging your car hire or fly/drive package before you leave home is usually considerably cheaper than a walk-in rental, but beware of website offers that don’t include a CDW or you may be liable for up to 100% of the car’s value.
International car-hire companies:
Avis (www.avis.com)
Budget (www.budget.fr)
EasyCar (www.easycar.com)
Europcar (www.europcar.com)
Hertz (www.hertz.com)
Sixt (www.sixt.fr)
French car-hire companies:
ADA (www.ada.fr)
DLM (www.dlm.fr)
France Cars (www.francecars.fr)
Locauto (www.locauto.fr)
Renault Rent (www.renault-rent.com)
Rent a Car (www.rentacar.fr)
Deals can be found on the internet and through companies such as the following:
Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com)
DriveAway Holidays (www.driveaway.com.au)
Holiday Autos (www.holidayautos.co.uk)
Rental cars with automatic transmission are rare in France; book well ahead for these.
For insurance reasons, it is usually forbidden to take rental cars on ferries, eg to Corsica.
BRINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE
A right-hand-drive vehicle brought to France from the UK or Ireland must have deflectors affixed to the headlights to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic. In the UK, information on driving in France is available from the RAC (www.rac.co.uk/driving-abroad/france) and the AA (www.theaa.com).
A foreign motor vehicle entering France must display a sticker or licence plate identifying its country of registration.
Michelin’s excellent, detailed regional driving maps are highly recommended as a companion to this book, as they will help you navigate back roads and explore alternative routes; IGN’s maps are ideal for more specialised activities such as hiking and cycling. Look for both at newsagents, bookshops, airports, supermarkets, tourist offices and service stations along the autoroute.
Institut Géographique National (IGN; www.ign.fr) Publishes regional fold-out maps as well as an all-France volume, France – Routes, Autoroutes. Has a great variety of 1:50,000-scale hiking maps, specialised cyclocartes (cycling maps) and themed maps showing wine regions, museums etc.
Michelin (boutiquecartesetguides.michelin.fr) Sells excellent, tear-proof yellow-orange 1:200,000-scale regional maps tailor-made for cross-country driving, with precise coverage of smaller back roads.
ROADS & CONDITIONS
France (along with Belgium) has the densest highway network in Europe. There are four types of intercity roads:
Autoroutes (highway names beginning with A) Multilane divided highways, usually (except near Calais and Lille) with tolls (péages). Generously outfitted with rest stops.
Routes Nationales (N, RN) National highways. Some sections have divider strips.
Routes Départementales (D) Local highways and roads.
Routes Communales (C, V) Minor rural roads.
The last two categories, while slower, offer some of France’s most enjoyable driving experiences.
PRIORITY TO THE RIGHT
Under the priorité à droite (‘priority to the right’) rule, any car entering an intersection (including a T-junction) from a road (including a tiny village backstreet) on your right has the right of way. Locals assume every driver knows this, so don’t be surprised if they courteously cede the right of way when you’re about to turn from an alley onto a highway – and boldly assert their rights when you’re the one zipping down a main road.
Priorité à droite is suspended (eg on arterial roads) when you pass a sign showing an upended yellow square with a black square in the middle. The same sign with a horizontal bar through the square lozenge reinstates the priorité à droite rule.
When you arrive at a roundabout at which you do not have the right of way (ie the cars already in the roundabout do), you’ll often see signs reading vous n’avez pas la priorité (you do not have right of way) or cédez le passage (give way).
ROAD RULES
Enforcement of French traffic laws (see www.securiteroutiere.gouv.fr) has been stepped up considerably in recent years. Speed cameras are common, as are radar traps and unmarked police vehicles. Fines for many infractions are given on the spot, and serious violations can lead to the confiscation of your driving licence and car.
Speed Limits
Speed limits outside built-up areas (except where signposted otherwise):
Undivided N and D highways 80km/h (70km/h when raining)
Non-autoroute divided highways 110km/h (100km/h when raining)
Autoroutes 130km/h (110km/h when raining, 60km/h in icy conditions)
To reduce carbon emissions, autoroute speed limits have recently been reduced to 110km/h in some areas.
Unless otherwise signposted, a limit of 50km/h applies in all areas designated as built up, no matter how rural they may appear. You must slow to 50km/h the moment you come to a white sign with a red border and a place name written on it; the speed limit applies until you pass an identical sign with a horizontal bar through it.
Alcohol
A Blood-alcohol limit is 0.05% (0.5g per litre of blood) – the equivalent of two glasses of wine for a 75kg adult.
A Police often conduct random breathalyser tests and penalties can be severe, including imprisonment.
Motorcycles
A Riders of any type of two-wheeled vehicle with a motor (except motor-assisted bicycles) must wear a helmet.
A No special licence is required to ride a motorbike whose engine is smaller than 50cc, which is why rental scooters are often rated at 49.9cc.
A All riders of motorcycles 125cc or larger must wear high-visibility reflective clothing measuring at least 150 sq cm on their upper bodies.
Child Seat
A Children under 10 are not permitted to ride in the front seat (unless the back is already occupied by other children under 10).
A A child under 13kg must travel in a backward-facing child seat (permitted in the front seat only for babies under 9kg and if the airbag is deactivated).
A Up to age 10 and/or a minimum height of 140cm, children must use a size-appropriate type of front-facing child seat or booster.
DRIVING PROBLEM-BUSTER
I can’t speak French; will that be a problem? While it’s preferable to learn some French before travelling, French road signs are mostly of the ‘international symbol’ variety, and English is increasingly spoken among the younger generation. Our Language chapter can help you navigate some common roadside emergency situations; in a worst-case scenario, a good attitude and sign language can go a long way.
What should I do if my car breaks down? Safety first: turn on your flashers, put on a safety vest (legally required, and provided in rental-car glove compartments) and place a reflective triangle (also legally required) 30m to 100m behind your car to warn approaching motorists. Call for emergency assistance (112) or walk to the nearest orange roadside call box (placed every 2km along French autoroutes). If renting a vehicle, your car-hire company’s service number may help expedite matters. If travelling in your own car, verify before leaving home whether your local auto club has reciprocal roadside-assistance arrangements in France.
What if I have an accident? For minor accidents you’ll need to fill out a Constat Amiable d’Accident Automobile (accident statement, typically provided in rental-car glove compartments) and report the accident to your insurance and/or rental-car company. If necessary, contact the police (17).
What should I do if I get stopped by the police? Show your passport (or EU national ID card), licence and proof of insurance. See our Language chapter for some handy phrases.
What’s the speed limit in France and how is it enforced? Speed limits (indicated by a black-on-white number inside a red circle) range from 30km/h in small towns to 130km/h on the fastest autoroutes. If the motorbike police pull you over, they’ll fine you on the spot or direct you to the nearest gendarmerie (police station) to pay. If you’re caught by a speed camera (placed at random intervals along French highways), the ticket will be sent to your rental-car agency, which will bill your credit card, or to your home address if you’re driving your own vehicle. Fines depend on how much you’re over the limit.
How do French tolls work? Many French autoroutes charge tolls. Take a ticket from the machine upon entering the highway and pay as you exit. Some exit booths are staffed by people; others are automated and will accept only chip-and-PIN credit cards or coins.
What if I can’t find anywhere to stay? During summer and holiday periods, book accommodation in advance whenever possible. Local tourist offices can sometimes help find you a bed during normal business hours. Otherwise, try your luck at national chain hotels such as Etap and Formule 1, which are typically clustered at autoroute exits outside urban areas.
Other Rules
A All passengers, including those in the back seat, must wear seat belts.
A Mobile phones may be used only if they are equipped with a hands-free kit or speakerphone.
A Turning right on a red light is illegal.
A All vehicles driven in France must carry a high-visibility reflective safety vest (stored inside the vehicle, not in the trunk/boot), a reflective triangle, and a portable, single-use breathalyser kit.
A If you’ll be driving on snowy roads, make sure you have snow chains (chaînes neige), required by law whenever and wherever the police post signs.
PARKING
In city centres, most on-street parking places are payant (metered) from about 9am to 7pm (sometimes with a break from noon to 2pm) Monday to Saturday, except bank holidays.
FUEL
Essence (petrol), also known as carburant (fuel), costs between €1.48 and €1.65 per litre for 95 unleaded (Sans Plomb 95 or SP95, usually available from a green pump) and €1.35 to €1.60 for diesel (diesel, gazole or gasoil, usually available from a yellow pump). Check and compare current prices countrywide at www.prix-carburants.gouv.fr.
Filling up (faire le plein) is most expensive at autoroute rest stops, and usually cheapest at hypermarkets.
Many small petrol stations close on Sunday afternoons and, even in cities, it can be hard to find a staffed station open late at night. In general, after-hours purchases (eg at hypermarkets’ fully automatic, 24-hour stations) can only be made with a credit card that has an embedded PIN chip, so if all you’ve got is cash or a magnetic-strip credit card, you could be stuck.
SATELLITE NAVIGATION SYSTEMS
Sat-nav devices can be helpful in navigating your way around France. They’re commonly available at car-rental agencies, or you can bring your own from home. Accuracy is more dependable on main highways than in small villages or on back roads; in rural areas, don’t hesitate to fall back on common sense, road signs and a good Michelin map if your sat nav seems to be leading you astray.
SAFETY
Never leave anything valuable inside your car, even in the boot trunk. Note that thieves can easily identify rental cars, as they have a distinctive number on the licence plate.
Theft is especially prevalent in the south. In cities such as Marseille and Nice, occasional aggressive theft from cars stopped at red lights is also an issue.
RADIO
For news, tune in to the French-language France Info (105.5MHz; www.franceinfo.fr) and multilanguage RFI (738kHz or 89MHz in Paris; www.rfi.fr). Popular national FM music stations include NRJ (www.nrj.fr), Virgin (www.virginradio.fr), La Radio Plus (www.laradioplus.com) and Nostalgie (www.nostalgie.fr).
In many areas, Autoroute Info (107.7MHz; www.autorouteinfo.fr) has round-the-clock traffic information.