In Praise of Lard and Tallow

As more and more evidence points to the unhealthy qualities of canola and vegetable oils, pure animal fats are now back in fashion. Mike, of course, gets a huge kick out of this.

Hog Fat

Lard Packaged rendered lard is available on supermarket shelves, but be sure to read the label, since it’s likely hydrogenated and contains preservatives and chemicals. Lard purchased from a farmers’ market or a local butcher is a better choice. Or, better yet, render it yourself (see below).

Leaf lard is the pure fat from around the pig’s kidneys. This is the cleanest fat on the animal. In order to have a pure white, odorless leaf lard to use for baking, rendering it properly is critical.

Fatback is the layer of fat directly below the skin, along the back of the hog on its shoulder and rump. You can buy it in pieces, often with the skin still attached. Rendered fatback is excellent for frying or sautéing.

Beef Tallow

Excellent for frying, beef tallow is the rendered form of the nutrient-rich fat around the cow’s organs, particularly from the kidney region. This natural fat contains 55 percent saturated fats and 40 percent monounsaturated fats, which are both heat stable, and its 400° to 420° smoke point makes it excellent for frying.

Rendering Lard and Tallow

Start with at least 2 pounds of fat, enough to make the whole process worth your while. We process quite a bit of lard so we use a grinder, but if you don’t have a grinder you can simply cut the lard into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Put the ground or chopped fat in a saucepan over lowest heat. (Alternatively, put it in a heavy-bottom pot, cover, and set in a 200º oven.) As the fat melts, any pieces of meat or tissue will separate out and settle on the bottom of the pan. Occasionally remove them with a skimmer; if left in too long, those pieces of meat will begin to cook and burn, giving the fat an overly meaty smell and taste (this is especially crucial with leaf lard, which should have no porky aroma whatsoever). Reserve the meaty bits.

While the fat is melting, layer a piece of cheesecloth inside a colander and set it over a large heatproof bowl or another saucepan.

Depending upon how much fat you are working with, it will take at least an hour to render. Once all of the fat is visibly melted, carefully ladle or pour it through the cheesecloth-lined colander. Ladle the strained lard or tallow into mason jars (we like to use the 4-ounce jelly size for pre-portioned amounts of leaf lard for baking). Let it cool and solidify, then cover and store in the refrigerator indefinitely. Use leaf lard for baking and regular lard and tallow for frying.

You can return the bits of skimmed meat to the saucepan and fry them until crispy and brown. These cracklin’s can be used to garnish salads or baked potatoes, or as toppings on macaroni and cheese or other side dishes.