Devil’s-in-the-Details EggsDevil’s-in-the-Details Eggs

Makes 24

Deviled eggs are always the first thing to disappear off the Southern buffet table. At our family gatherings, they were differentiated by garnish—bits of sweet pickle or olive, or a dash of paprika—and always displayed on a deviled egg plate made by Mama Faye at one of her ceramics classes.

This recipe is straightforward; the key is balanced flavor and a perfectly smooth filling. Be sure to taste and adjust the seasoning accordingly. Rice vinegar is smoother-tasting than other vinegars, and dusting the eggs with dry rub just before serving adds another flavor note.

Place the eggs in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and let sit for 5 minutes. Drain the hot water and add cold tap water to cover. Let the eggs cool completely, about 30 minutes.

Peel the eggs and halve lengthwise. Gently remove and reserve the yolks, taking care not to tear the whites. Arrange the egg whites on a baking sheet or platter and set aside.

Place the yolks in a food processor. Pulse the yolks until they completely crumble and are a fine, powder-like consistency. Add the sugar, salt, pepper, vinegar, mustard, and wing sauce. Pulse to combine. Add half the mayonnaise and blend until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Test the consistency and add more mayonnaise to achieve the desired level of creaminess. Taste for seasoning, but don’t oversalt. (The dry rub you sprinkle on at the end will add more salt flavor.) Alternatively, mix by hand: Place the yolks in a medium bowl and use a fork to crumble them. Use a whisk to blend in the remaining ingredients and add some air.

Fill a pastry bag with the filling and carefully pipe into each egg white half. Chill for 1 hour prior to serving. Sprinkle with dry rub just before serving.