For a special treat, cook a Snake River Farms Wagyu brisket, available via mail order (see page 324). Wagyu beef is butchered from Japanese cows whose breeding is carefully planned and tracked. These cows were originally bred for use in heavy work, and their intramuscular system is woven with extra ribbons of fat that provide the animal with a readily available energy source. This makes Wagyu meat exquisitely tender; even the flat is marbled, and the fat renders completely, leaving the meat with a buttery texture. There are different grades of Wagyu, based on the amount of marbling.