Makes about 30 patties, 6 to serve and 24 to freeze
Pleasingly porky and juicy, with a milder flavor than a hamburger, a grilled pork burger is a great alternative to beef. What began as our way to use unevenly cut pork steaks has become a favorite both as a menu item at 17th Street and at our family cookouts. As with hamburgers, it is crucial to use good-quality, whole cuts of meat (no trimmings!), and the meat-to-fat ratio is important. The natural fat and marbling in pork shoulder is just the right amount. If you don’t want to grind the meat yourself, you can have the meat ground to order when you purchase it.
This recipe makes a bulk amount of burgers, so that you can have them on hand to enjoy anytime.
Grind the pork into a very cold large bowl. Use your hands to lightly fluff the ground meat just enough to distribute any pockets of fat; do not overwork. Cover the bowl and refrigerate until you are ready form the patties.
Lightly form 6 patties, each about ⅓ pound and ½ inch thick, being careful not to pack or overwork the meat (see page 137). Set the patties on a plate and refrigerate them, loosely covered, until you’re ready to grill.
Form about 24 more patties. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Arrange as many patties as can fit without touching on one baking sheet and slide the sheet into the freezer. Put the remaining patties on the other sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and put it in the refrigerator. Once the first round of patties has frozen solid, which can take 2 to 3 hours, layer them with squares of waxed paper, transfer them to a freezer bag, press out all the air before sealing, and put them back in the freezer. Repeat the process in as many batches as needed to freeze the rest of the patties. Store in the freezer for up to 2 months. Thaw in the refrigerator before grilling.
Set up the cooker for direct cooking: Open the top and bottom vents. Pile 2 pounds of the charcoal in the bottom. Load a charcoal chimney one-quarter full of charcoal and light it. When the coals in the chimney are glowing, dump them on top of the pile of charcoal already in the cooker and close the lid. Adjust the vents as necessary to establish a steady temperature between 400° and 450° for direct grilling (See pages 84 and 77 for how best to assess and monitor cooker temperature, and how to determine your target temperature).
Season the patties one by one as you put them on the cooker: Hold each patty in one hand and generously sprinkle the top with shake, then set the patty, seasoned side down, on the cooker. Press your thumb into the middle of each patty to make a deep indentation. Season the tops and close the lid. Wait for about 5 minutes, then open the lid. Moisture should have pooled on the tops of the patties, and the sides should be beginning to sizzle; if this isn’t happening yet, close the lid again for 1 minute more.
Flip the burgers and cook for 4 to 5 minutes more, until the internal temperature reaches 160°.
If you prefer toasted buns, about 2 minutes after you’ve flipped the burgers, put the buns, cut side down, along the outer edge of the cooker. Watch carefully to make sure they don’t burn; toasting them should only take about 1 minute. As soon as the edges begin to brown, use tongs to pull the buns off the cooker and set them on a platter.
Use a spatula to transfer the patties to the bottom buns. Top as desired and serve.