Makes 8 to 10 servings
John Delpha of Rosebud American Kitchen & Bar in Somerville, Massachusetts, is the brains behind this dish, and he was kind enough to share the recipe, to which we’ve added our own twists. John’s secret is that he uses duck fat, left over from the duck confit that he makes in his restaurant. You can buy duck fat at specialty grocery stores, or just use another type of fat. We’re partial to brisket fat, and this is another use for the leftover pieces of seasoned fat and meat from brisket, pastrami, pork butts, or pork shoulder. (The rub and smoke season the fat as it renders.) Put all of those leftovers in the freezer, well wrapped in plastic and in a freezer bag. Then thaw, chop, and sauté when you’re ready to use them. You can also use rendered chicken or pork fat with delicious results.
Cook the trimmings or bacon in a large heavy-bottom pot over medium heat to render the fat and get the trimmings or bacon brown and crispy. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the collards, brown sugar, cane syrup, and a pinch of salt and pepper and stir to combine.
Continue cooking over medium-low heat until the collards release their juices and the liquid has almost completely evaporated, about 30 minutes. Add the vinegar, red pepper flakes, and 1 quart water. Raise the heat to medium-high. Continue cooking, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the collards are tender, about 1 hour. There should be about 1 cup of potlikker (the collards’ juices) when finished. Season to taste with additional salt, pepper, and a touch more vinegar.