Hog & Hominy Old-Fashioned

Makes 1 cocktail

Every October, I travel down to Oxford, Mississippi, for the Southern Foodways Symposium. I go for the thoughtful programming that celebrates Southern food and culture, and I heartily enjoy the opportunity to feast upon amazing and inventive Southern fare. As I make my way down to Oxford, the first stop is Hog & Hominy, the Memphis restaurant owned by chefs Michael Hudman and Andy Ticer, and an unofficial clubhouse for those attending the symposium. Participants gather for sustenance and libations, and it’s not uncommon to see groups of people ordering everything off the menu and passing it around, family-style. The food is outstanding, and the cocktails are an important part of the experience. The Old-Fashioned, in particular, is one of the best I’ve tasted. Several techniques make their version a standout. The right ice is key—they serve their cocktail with a giant ice ball that melts slowly, so the drink doesn’t get watered down. Luckily, it’s easy to find oversized ice molds online or in specialty food stores. Also, high-quality orange bitters make all the difference. Hog & Hominy makes their own, but a good store-bought version like Regan’s will do the trick. Lastly, the order in which you add and mix the ingredients is important. —Amy

• 1 large strip orange zest
• 1 cube or ½ teaspoon Demerara sugar
• 3 drops high-quality orange bitters (such as Regan’s)
• 1 drop Angostura bitters
• ½ ounce club soda, plus more to taste
• 2 ounces bourbon (we use Maker’s Mark)
• 1 large round or square ice cube (see page 252)

Twist the zest to release its natural oils and rub it along the rim and inside of an old-fashioned glass. Place the sugar in the bottom of the glass, then add both bitters and a spritz of orange oil from the zest. Add a splash of club soda and muddle to dissolve the sugar and combine the ingredients. Pour in the bourbon and another splash of soda and stir. Add the ice and garnish with the orange zest.