In terms of technique, there are a few pointers I can offer. As you climb, use your gears to retain the same cadence and avoid over-straining, keep your body relaxed and pedal stroke smooth. In training, I would do some sections of climbs in the TT position (or on the drops of a road bike) to really work my hamstrings and glutes. I would also get out of the saddle intermittently to vary the position and to increase the power I could exert on steeper sections. When you stand, you should feel like you’re running on the pedals, allowing the bike to move, but not rock from side to side. Try to pace your effort, rather than smashing yourself at the start only to be crawling as you near the top. Remember that what goes up must come down, so even if you suffer on the ascent hopefully you’ll enjoy the return trip!
INDOOR CYCLING
Indoor cycling can be a friend with benefits for the following reasons:
It’s a highly controlled environment.
There’s no opportunity for drafting or free-wheeling.
It’s time efficient.
Inclement weather won’t stop play given that the likelihood of rain or snow in your garage is low.
You don’t have to navigate potholes, cope with corners or stop, whether that be for traffic lights, flat tyres or cafés with cake.
It makes simultaneously cycling while watching a video or listening to music possible.
It helps to train the brain to endure monotony and boredom.
It also comes into its own if (like me) you have a tendency to break bones and can’t ride outside.
There are several different devices that enable you to cycle on your normal bike indoors: stationary bikes, such as those you would find in a gym (includes watt bikes); a turbo trainer or rollers. Unless you have a lot of cash to spare, you probably can’t afford your own stationary bike. A turbo trainer is, however, well worth the investment, especially if you live in a country where rain/sleet/snow features heavily on the forecast, you have broken your arm/wrist/hand/finger/rib Wellington style, and/or you don’t like cycling in the dark. It consists of a frame, a clamp to hold the bicycle securely, a roller that presses up against the rear wheel, and a mechanism to create resistance when the pedals are turned. There are different types of turbo trainer depending on the latter mechanism. In a wind trainer, the roller drives a fan to create air resistance. You change the resistance using your gears. These are typically the least expensive and noisiest. Magnetic trainers have magnets that resist each other, and are moderately expensive and moderately noisy. Some magnetic trainers have handlebar-mounted devices to change the resistance during a session. Fluid trainers use liquid-filled chambers to create resistance and are the most expensive and quietest trainers. Some trainers are equipped with sensors that monitor power output, cadence, virtual speed and heart rate. You might want to put an old/hard-wearing tyre on your rear wheel—or use a different wheel altogether—to avoid shredding a good tyre.
Bicycle rollers are another option for indoor training. They stay static while you ride, essentially by balancing your bike on top of them. They require the rider to have good stability, focus and a dose of patience in order to master the technique, but they do help improve core strength, your connection with the bike, pedalling efficiency (a more complete, smooth pedal stroke) and bike-handling skills (if you can remain upright!).
DRAFTING
Drafting in the cycling context is when a cyclist rides directly behind another, sitting in the front rider’s slipstream. It can help the rear rider save a considerable amount of energy. Triathlons can be drafting (also known as draft-legal) or non-drafting, where drafting is not permitted. In the latter, the race rules will stipulate the size of the draft zone. This is an imaginary rectangular area surrounding each bike, which you must not enter unless overtaking (the manoeuvre must also be completed within a specified time frame). The zones vary in size depending on the race, and there are often “draft busters” on the course to enforce the rules. It pays to be aware of the rules given that any infringement will likely incur a penalty, which is usually time spent by the side of the road, or even a disqualification.
GROUP RIDING TIPS
Although it’s beneficial to do some of your riding alone, especially given the non-drafting nature of most triathlons, there are advantages to group riding, including motivation, camaraderie, skill development and communal cake stops. If you can, find a small group of cyclists to ride with, preferably those who are more practised. More experienced cyclists will also be able to explain hand signals and etiquette so that you don’t commit cardinal cycling sins. Some quick tips:
Communication is key. Obvious warnings include “slowing” or “braking.” Others to be aware of are: “car up,” meaning there’s a car ahead to be aware of; “car back,” meaning there’s a car behind that might be trying to overtake; and “single out,” meaning to adopt single file. Use vocal cords or your hand to point out any obstacles, such as potholes or oil.
Try to match your ability with that of the group. If you’ve any doubts about your fitness or handling skills, always opt for a slower group. Ride consistently and don’t yo-yo your pace, brake suddenly or swerve, unless absolutely necessary.
“Cycling groups are, for the most part, relaxed, fun and friendly places to be and you’ll be made welcome, even as a bumbag-wearing novice.”
Ride as closely as you can to the person in front, both to get the slipstream effect and to ensure that the group doesn’t get strung out. Horse-play is best avoided at all times. If road conditions allow, you can ride two abreast, but make sure you maintain an even pace and stay level with the person next to you rather than what’s known as “half wheeling.” If possible, “do a turn” at the front of the group even if it’s just for a few minutes. Conversely, if you’re finding the pace easy don’t get to the front and put the hammer down. If this all sounds a bit draconian, believe me, it isn’t. Cycling groups are, for the most part, relaxed, fun and friendly places to be and you’ll be made welcome, even as a bumbag-wearing novice.
PRE-RACE BIKE PREPARATION
As with the swim, there are cycle-specific things to be aware of before a race, which can usually be found on the event website and/or from other athletes:
the distance you need to cycle;
the bike cut-off time;
the race rules, including littering, drafting, whether you need to wear your race number on the bike and the use of disc wheels;
the bike course: bike exit, mount and dismount lines and bike entry;
the terrain (e.g. hills, corners, type of road/off-road surface);
whether there are distance markers and, if so, how often they appear;
location of any aid stations and their provision;
whether mechanical support is provided and in what form;
location of any penalty tents;
when you need to rack your bike and, if the day before the race, what you need to bring to bike check-in (e.g. bike, helmet, race number/s).