HOMEMADE NATURAL DIETS HOMEMADE NATURAL DIETSMany holistic pet owners choose to prepare food for their pets at home. The following information will help you prepare the best diet possible for your pet. As is true with the selection of processed diets, you should work with your veterinarian to make sure that any homemade diet you prepare is best for your pet.
The idea behind the homemade diets is that the owner will use fresh, minimally processed ingredients. By offering fresh food, you include more nutrients in the diet that would otherwise be removed as a result of processing. Homemade diets seek to emphasize freshness and wholesomeness of ingredients. These homemade diets seek to mimic the diet the pet would encounter in the wild. The diets avoid the harmful chemical preservatives, additives, and artificial colorings and flavors that may occur in some commercially prepared diets. Homemade diets address common concerns owners may express concerning commercial pet foods, such as these:
By-products that may lack nutritional value and may be toxic
Food additives, flavoring, and colors that are added for the benefit of the consumer but which are of no nutritional value to pets (and may be harmful)
Failure to include fresh, wholesome ingredients which could benefit the pet by providing a readily and easily digestible and absorbable source of vitamins, minerals, and enzymes
Fillers such as animal and plant by-products that are of questionable nutritional value yet are often added to generic diets so the manufacturer can meet the minimum nutrient values required to be in the food
While owners have often been told “Don’t feed your pet people food,” this advice is erroneous for two reasons. First, processed dog food and cat food is nothing more than “people food” processed into pellets and put in a bag for pets (although many manufacturers do use ingredients not fit for human consumption). Second, prior to the origin of processed foods in the early 1900s, our dogs and cats ate nothing but people food (unless the dog or cat hunted its own meals). Many holistic veterinarians think that the diseases we now see (such as immune disorders, allergies, and arthritis that were rare in past years) are a direct result of processed foods.
Fresh foods prepared at home with minimal processing provide phytonutrients (nutrients found in plants) such as bioflavonoids and many nutrients not yet discovered. This is why studies showing the use of vitamins and minerals from food sources often show positive results whereas studies using selected chemically synthesized vitamins and minerals do not show the same positive results and often show negative results. Obviously, the whole food sources contain as yet undiscovered nutrients (not found in most vitamin pills) that are helping the pet. This is another good reason to consider preparing food for your dog or cat at home.
If you choose to feed a homemade diet, you will need to make the distinction between feeding a diet containing cooked ingredients (meat) or a diet where the protein source (meat) is fed raw. The following discussion will take a look at a popular and often recommended raw diet, and will present an objective overview of some of the debate both for and against feeding raw diets.
As a pet owner, you may have heard a lot of arguments for or against feeding your dog or cat a diet in a raw, fresh, uncooked state. Many owners feel that feeding a raw diet is the only way to offer a truly healthful diet, and that cooking somehow destroys many of the nutrients in the diet.
Because this topic is so controversial and there is so little science to back up many of the arguments on both sides, it is important that we address both the pros and the cons concerning feeding raw foods.
The argument really concerns what has become known as the BARF diet, also called the Billinghurst diet after Dr. Ian Billinghurst, the doctor who came up with this concept. BARF is an acronym which stands for “Bones and Raw Food.” In this diet, the pet is fed raw bones, raw meat, raw vegetables, and a carbohydrate source such as rice. The concept is simple: Since the wild relatives of our pets eat raw meat, and they seemed to be “healthier” than our domesticated dogs and cats, that is what our pets should eat. This diet has been fed to many pets with little harm, produces great-looking animals, and results in very few problems. Let’s take an objective look at many of the claims made by proponents of this diet.
Our pets should eat what their wild ancestors eat. While it is true that the wild ancestors eat raw, freshly killed foods, our pets are not wild animals but rather domestic relatives of wild animals. That doesn’t mean we can’t feed them a similar diet, only that we keep in mind that we are talking about totally different groups of animals with different lifestyles, exercise patterns, and health concerns.
Raw meat is safe for our pets; wild animals suffer no ill effects from raw meat. Whether or not raw meat is safe is debatable, although most pet owners and holistic veterinarians report no obvious health problems in pets fed raw meat. Conversely, many owners and doctors report healthier-looking coats and skin, less itching, less arthritis, and general overall health improvement once pets are slowly switched from processed food to raw food in homemade diets. Health concerns with feeding raw meat, including parasites and bacterial contamination, are discussed at length further along in this discussion.
To say that wild animals suffer no ill effects from eating raw meat is ignorant and presupposes we know everything that happens to every wild animal. While most wild animals thrive on their diets (as would be expected), we also know that wild prey (such as rabbits and rodents) carry parasites (which are obviously transmitted to wild animal predator relatives of our pets who eat the infected prey) and that any infected meat could certainly cause illness in a wild animal. Unfortunately we don’t have any studies showing the effects of what happens when this infected prey is eaten by wild relatives of our dogs and cats.
Animals are more acidic compared to people. That is why they don’t get sick eating raw meat. It isn’t clear what this statement means, or how someone could even measure a pet’s “acidity.” We can only assume that those who make this statement somehow assume that the “acid” in the pet’s body or stomach in some way can detoxify anything bad in the diet. While it is true that wild animals have adapted to their diets, this in no way means that they are immune to problems associated with the diet. For example, if a wild animal were only able to eat the muscle meat on the prey as the sole dietary ingredient, that animal would develop calcium deficiency. If the meat were rancid and infected with bacteria, the animal could certainly develop food poisoning (as often happens with our own pets who get into and eat garbage). Meat infected with parasites can be eaten by animals and will result in the animal becoming infected with the parasites. So this statement about acidity just doesn’t hold up.
Raw meat is safe for our pets. Their systems are designed to handle any problems with the meat. This all depends what is meant by “safe.” Certainly raw meat that was raised free of chemicals and hormones, and that isn’t infected with bacteria or parasites, is safe. Many strains of resistant bacteria have become more prevalent today; food safety should be a major concern among pet owners. A recent report mentioned a resistant strain of Camphylobacter jejuni bacterium that was highly prevalent in chicken, which is the main recommended raw food. While many dogs and cats may be able to handle the bacterial load of the BARF program, some, especially those not already in good health, may not, which can lead to potentially serious consequences. There are reports of supposedly healthy pets doing fine on diets like the BARF diet who then develop illness (such as Salmonella-induced diarrhea) when the owner feeds raw chicken from another supplier or from a contaminated source. Switching the pet to a better source (non-contaminated source) of meat then clears up the problem. Most holistic veterinarians believe that some dogs and cats can tolerate exposure to the pathogens in uncooked meat (and in today’s world there will probably always be some) and others cannot, depending on their own health status.
One area of disagreement concerns the feeding of raw meat to pets with illness (such as immune problems like cancer). While some people feel that these severely ill pets are most likely the ones who need the additional nutrition found in raw food, others prefer not to feed raw food to these pets as their immune systems are suppressed and are less likely to fight off any infectious organisms that may be found in the food. This issue should be thoroughly discussed with your veterinarian before feeding raw meat diets to any ill pet.
Owners who choose to feed raw meat must do all they can to ensure that this meat is “safe” and free from pesticide, chemical, and hormonal residues as well as parasite ova (eggs). Proper handling of the meat is needed to ensure that it stays “safe” at home. Most food poisoning results from improper handling at home rather than a problem with the actual source of the meat itself.
When pet owners say that animals can handle problems with raw meat, they seem to mean that the digestive tracts and immune systems of our pets (and wild animals) can eliminate any infections or parasites before they cause problems for the animals. While it is true that a healthy pet is less likely to become ill, and is less likely to develop disease when infected with parasites (although this depends upon the parasite and the number of parasites infecting the animal), raw meat can still make an animal sick. When following the guidelines listed to follow, however, this is highly unlikely and may be a risk you are willing to assume.
What seems interesting is that proponents of feeding raw meat state that it is acceptable to feed pets raw meat except raw pork or raw wild meat (such as venison or rabbit). The reason for this warning (which, by the way, many veterinarians do agree with) is that these meats are more likely than beef or lamb to harbor parasites. However, this warning seems contradictory: If our pets “can handle” raw meat because of their “acidity” and their immune systems, why couldn’t they “handle” the parasites present in any raw meat? To many doctors, this is an obvious discrepancy that discredits the argument about raw meat being “totally safe” for pets.
Feeding bones is safe for pets. Once again we need to define safe. Most pets eating raw bones do not die, develop impactions of the digestive tract, fracture teeth, or develop any other problems. Still, some do, as most veterinarians will attest. Some proponents state that only cooked bones, which are softer than raw uncooked bones, are likely to splinter and cause problems. Other suggestions include smashing them with a hammer first, so they are in smaller pieces that should pass easily. (Of course, even small pieces can potentially cut intestinal mucosa or become lodged somewhere, unless the pieces are ground into a bone powder.) Another suggestion is to grind up chicken and bones into a homemade meal for the pet. While this loses some of the dental benefits seen in pets who eat whole bones, it gains some safety and adds usefulness for toothless patients.
Once again, the choice about feeding any bones is left up to your discretion after a thorough discussion with your holistic veterinarian.
The BARF diet, since it is the same food wild animals eat, is balanced for a pet’s nutritional needs. While a properly balanced diet is the basis of any health program for pets, some concern has been expressed about using the basic BARF diet for each and every pet. Each pet is different, and each pet has his own nutritional needs in times of health as well as times of illness. Regarding the basic BARF diet, the daily ration has about 6,900 kcals/kg on a dry basis, has higher levels of calcium and phosphorus recommended by most nutritionists for growth and not maintenance, and contains high levels of fat. In addition, some question exists regarding levels and bioavailability of essential vitamins and minerals.
Still, many pets do well on this diet. Working with your veterinarian to properly supplement and formulate the diet for your pet’s needs can be a viable alternative to most commercial processed foods.
Here are some additional concerns and problems expressed by holistic veterinarians who have seen some problems with the BARF diet.
Fractured teeth have been seen in dogs eating bones. Commonly, the fourth premolars, the large upper cheek teeth that do a lot of the grinding of food, are the ones most commonly broken. The fractures occur more frequently when pets eat bones that have the shaft chewed or broken longitudinally; this broken piece of bone can act as a wedge and causes a lateral slab fracture of the fourth premolar. In addition, broken bones can lodge into the hard palate between the teeth. Removal of this piece of bone would require anesthesia. One suggestion to minimize fractured teeth and lodged bones is to supervise bone chewing by the pet, discarding the bone after the “knuckle” part (the soft part) is chewed off.
It is suggested that raw bones (rather than cooked bones) be fed to dogs and cats. The raw bones are softer than cooked bones and less likely to break apart. While raw bones are not as hard as dry bones or cow hooves, dogs who were fed a raw diet similar to the BARF diet are reported to have a significantly higher level of tooth fractures than are dogs on a “normal” diet.
Other reported problems seen in dogs eating the BARF diet include eclampsia (low blood calcium following delivery of puppies); pancreatitis (from eating a lot of marrow); intestinal perforations (punctured holes in the intestines from the sharp edges of the bones); iron-deficiency anemia associated with puppy deaths; “rage” syndrome in dogs whose rectum was impacted with small, sharp pieces of bone (the “rage” resolved after the bone pieces were removed and bones were eliminated from the diet); straining to defecate due to obstruction by bones; fever and toxemia; and death in pets with deficient immune systems (possibly due to bacterial contamination and toxemia).
While some of these concerns are obviously serious health problems, most pet owners report no problems when feeding their pets raw bones and raw diets. It appears that the following cautions are in order to minimize the possibility of any side effects that can occur when feeding bones as part of the BARF diet:
Give bones in moderation. Bones should be a small part of the diet, and veterinary supervision is critical in converting a pet to the BARF diet or any diet that is new to the pet.
Use raw, meaty smaller bones. Bones such as chicken wings and necks are less likely to cause problems than larger, cooked bones. It appears that most problems occur when meaty bones are not used or when mainly beef bones are used.
Balance the diet with fibrous vegetables. This will increase bulk and encourage movement of the bones through the intestinal tract.
While it may seem that the evidence suggests pets should not eat raw meat or bones, that is not necessarily the case. Anecdotal reports (and some “feeling” among pet owners and holistic veterinarians) supports the idea that pets eating raw foods look better and are healthier than pets eating cooked foods. Unfortunately, no good current studies compare the “health” of pets eating raw versus cooked foods, nor do we have any studies comparing the safety of either diet. Based on personal experiences, most doctors would say that many pet owners feed raw meat and bones and have not reported problems in their pets.
The final choice will be left to the owner. Regardless of how you choose to feed your pet, properly supplementing your pet’s diet to prevent deficiencies and ensure maximum health is important. For a complete discussion of supplements, see Part Two.
For now, here are some helpful hints (followed by a number of recipes) for those who choose homemade natural diets.
Proceed with caution! While holistic purists often recommend feeding the uncooked diets and have not had problems with food poisoning as a result of this recommendation, owners would be wise to be concerned about the possibility of infection from raw meat. The bacteria of immediate concern are E. coli and Salmonella. Stories exist in the media about human illness and death from both of these organisms. E. coli seems to be of most concern from beef, whereas Salmonella seems to occur mostly as a result of ingestion of poultry products (raw chicken, turkey, and eggs). Most homemade diets use beef or poultry as the main protein source. Although lamb, venison, or rabbit can be used, it is preferable to reserve these protein sources for pets who have medically confirmed food allergies. Pork, venison, and rabbit should definitely be cooked (I’d would be inclined to cook any meat in a pet’s diet). For owners who choose to feed raw meat, it would be wise to choose only animal meat that was raised “naturally” (without antibiotics or hormones), thoroughly wash the meat at home, and maybe even prepare the meat by grinding it at home (to prevent cross-contamination with other foods at the local grocery or butcher shop). Any signs of illness as a result of feeding raw meat diets should be evaluated by a veterinarian at once.
Cook foods to ensure safety. A better alternative would be to feed the meat cooked and the other dietary constituents (vegetables) raw or lightly cooked.
Beware of dietary deficiencies. Dietary deficiencies (mainly vitamins and minerals) are more common with homemade diets. Careful attention to proper preparation is critical to prevent both vitamin and mineral deficiencies and excesses. Multivitamin and mineral preparations designed for kittens or adult cats should be used. Some holistic practitioners also recommend the addition of colloidal minerals, which may be a better vehicle in which to deliver minerals to the pet. Child dosages (for puppies) and adult human dosages (for dogs) of human vitamin C and E preparations can also be added for their antioxidant effects. Calcium can be added in the form of bonemeal or calcium tablets (gluconate, carbonate, or the lactate forms are acceptable).
Read the labels. For owners who choose not to prepare a diet at home but prefer a commercially prepared diet that is close to natural, read the label to check for quality of ingredients (fresh meat or animal by-products) and lack of additives (look for natural antioxidants such as vitamin E and vitamin C and a lack of artificial coloring and flavoring). Supplementation with natural products such as brewer’s yeast, fatty acids, kelp, barley grass, cooked liver, enzyme products, and sprouted beans or seeds are often helpful to replace ingredients that may be lost during processing.
SAFETYEndotoxins and Mycotoxins
Cooking food improves digestibility and kills many of the bacteria that might cause illness. Since many commercial pet foods use low-quality protein sources (such as meat and bone-meal that are easily contaminated with bacteria), cooking is essential.
However, cooking cannot kill endotoxins, a bacterial by-product. When certain bacteria (E. coli) are cooked and killed, they can release endotoxins. The level of endotoxins in the food reflects the amount of bacterial contamination and the quality of the meat (meal) used in the diet. Nothing can be done to remove endotoxins from the contaminated pet food. Endotoxins can cause illness in pets.
Mycotoxins, toxins from molds, may also contaminate pet foods. This is most commonly a problem when the raw grain (especially peanut and cottonseed meals) used in the food persists during processing. As can endotoxins, mycotoxins can cause illness in pets.
Be cautious when supplementing. Keep in mind when formulating homemade diets that the AAFCO standards mentioned earlier in the chapter are intended for use in manufacturing, not supplementing at home.
When switching from a lower quality food to a more natural diet (either cooked or, especially, raw), you may need some time to get your pet to accept the new diet. Additionally, it will take some time (usually 4 to 8 weeks) for the new diet to work so you can see any positive effects in your pet (more energy, brighter skin and hair-coat, healthier skin, decreased allergies or arthritis) as the body detoxifies itself. There is a secret to switching your dog or cat to a new, more healthful diet. Switching to the new food overnight may cause vomiting or diarrhea in a few dogs or cats; some pets are finicky and may not eat a new diet that is suddenly introduced.
The best way to offer your pet a new diet is by gradually introducing it to the pet. When you have about a week’s worth of the old diet remaining, purchase or prepare the new, more healthful diet. Add about 10% of the new diet each day, gradually adding more until you run out of the old food and the pet is eating only the new diet. This trick usually prevents upset tummies and eases the transition to the new food.
While several quality natural prepared foods are on the market, there is no question that the freshest, most wholesome diet, over which you have most control, is a homemade diet. Only by preparing your pet’s food at home can you exercise complete control over the quality and the type of ingredients that your pet will eat.
Many owners have heard that “pets shouldn’t eat people food.” However, even “dog food” and “cat food” is basically “people food” (although many diets use such poor-quality ingredients that most people would not want to eat those foods). All dog food and cat food starts out with similar (although usually poorer quality) ingredients, the same types of foods that you will use in formulating your pet’s diet. However, these ingredients, after being mixed together, are usually heated and pressurized to force the basic mix into extruded pellets that then go into a bag called “dog food” or “cat food.”
The homemade diet uses higher quality protein and carbohydrate sources and does not require heating to extremely high temperatures. Also, the homemade food is not extruded into pellets under high pressure. This heating and pressurizing of food destroys most of the nutrients—enzymes, healthy bacteria (probiotics) and vitamins and minerals—that your pet requires. This extensive processing forces pet food manufacturers to add extra vitamins and minerals to the food. Most manufacturers, however, do not add back probiotics or enzymes; supplementation with these ingredients is still necessary to achieve levels found in homemade diets. By making your pet’s diet at home, you can achieve minimal destruction of enzymes, probiotics, and vitamins and minerals, ensuring your pet a maximum amount of these important nutrients.
An important advantage to preparing diets for your pet yourself at home is that you can choose the best ingredients available. Many clients prefer to use organically raised plant and animal tissues, which are raised without hormones and chemicals, pesticides, and chemical fertilizers. According to information from the Organic View 1:17 (www.purefood.org/organicview.htm), the nutrient contents of foods raised by industrial agricultural practices differs greatly from the nutrients of organically raised foods. For example, Organic View reported that in an analysis of USDA nutrient data from 1975 to 1997, the Kushi Institute of Becket, Massachusetts, found that the average calcium levels in 12 fresh vegetables declined 27%; iron levels dropped 37%; vitamin A levels 21%; and vitamin C levels 30%.
They also report that a similar analysis of British nutrient data from 1930 to 1980 published in the British Food Journal found that in 20 vegetables, the average calcium content had declined 19%; iron 22%; and potassium 14%. In addition, a 1999 study out of the University of Wisconsin found that three decades of the overuse of nitrogen in U.S. farming has destroyed much of the soil’s fertility, causing it to age the equivalent of 5,000 years. Finally, a new U.S. Geological Survey report indicates that acid rain is depleting soil calcium levels in at least ten eastern states, interfering with forest growth and weakening trees’ resistance to insects. Findings such as those reported here prompt many owners to search for the most wholesome produce available for including in diets fed to their pets.
Check with stores in your area to see whether they offer organically raised vegetables and animal meats. Also, ask them what they mean by the term “organically raised,” as many producers may make this claim but still use conventional agricultural practices. Find out everything you can about the farmers who supply the stores where you shop.
Since every pet is an individual, homemade diets are easily supplemented with additional nutritional supplements as recommended by your veterinarian.
The main drawback to preparing diets at home is that unless you follow properly formulated recipes, it is easy to create nutrient deficiencies or excesses that could cause illness in your pet. Many of the diets listed here are adapted from Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets by leading gastroenterologist Donald Strombeck. Dr. Strombeck has gone to great lengths to ensure that all of the diets are complete and balanced. He has used these diets for many years with his clinical patients at the University of California at Davis with excellent results.
A homemade diet can be used occasionally to supplement one of the better natural prepared diets, or as the sole diet for the pet. For pets with various medical problems such as heart disease or kidney disease, a homemade diet is probably the best way to go, as no “natural” prepared diets at this time serve the needs of pets with medical disorders. There are medical-type “prescription” diets for pets with various diseases, but these do not always contain wholesome ingredients and may contain by-products and chemicals not desired by owners who opt for holistic care for their pets.
Balancing the following diets is quite simple and only requires a few supplements; a balanced diet using fresh, wholesome ingredients ensures optimal proportions of nutrients and may prevent disease as well as help treat pets with diseases. The optimum amount of any specific nutrient is not always well known; the following diets are formulated with nutrient ranges that can be adjusted under veterinary supervision as needed. Pets are individuals with specific individual nutritional needs. There is no one specific requirement for each nutrient for every pet, despite commercial foods claim to include the “correct” level of nutrients. Depending upon an animal’s needs, nutrient levels will vary; owners preparing diets at home for their pets can easily adjust nutrient levels as well as the composition of the diet to meet the pet’s changing needs.
For owners who desire to feed a more natural, chemical-free diet, preparing diets at home is easy and cost-effective. Select the freshest ingredients; ideally the vegetables and meats should be from plants and animals raised without chemicals, hormones, or pesticides.
While many veterinarians suggest that feeding raw meat is best, there is always the concern about bacterial contamination and infestation with microscopic parasites. For these reasons, owners should take every precaution when preparing the meat part of the diet. Ideally, the meat should be thoroughly cooked. For those owners who prefer to feed raw meat, the following tips can be helpful (but are not foolproof):
Only chicken, turkey, lamb, or beef should be fed raw; it is best to cook rabbit, venison, wild game, and pork.
Ground meats should ideally be cooked unless the owner grinds the meat at home. (This prevents illnesses from cross-contamination that might have occurred at the store.)
Freeze all meats for at least one week prior to feeding.
Thoroughly wash all meat in clean water prior to feeding; only prepare the amount that will be fed at that meal, keeping the remaining meat frozen.
For pets with illness, especially chronic diseases in which the immune system may not be functioning properly, it may be best to cook the meat and thoroughly clean the vegetables before feeding them to your pet.
Thoroughly clean all utensils used at home in the preparation of raw foods. Do not use utensils that have touched raw foods on cooked foods; clean the utensil or get a new utensil to use on the cooked foods.
Wash your hands thoroughly after handling raw foods.
Use only high quality brand-name supplements recommended by your veterinarian. A discussion of common supplements that can be added to the diet of most pets can be found.
Note: See the section on Raw Versus Cooked Food including the discussion of the BARF diet.
Here are some additional tips on preparing the following diets:
Follow the recommendations made on the label of the specific products unless noted otherwise in the diet recipe. Most diets call for chicken fat or canola oil. Chicken fat is best obtained by cooking a whole chicken and reserving the fat (which floats on the top of the water). Many doctors like to add additional omega-3 fatty acids to the diets of dogs and cats to take advantage of the health benefits found in fish oil. (For a thorough discussion of the benefits of fish oil, see Part Two).
Use a calcium/phosphorus source, usually bonemeal, as called for in diets. Use either bonemeal or bonemeal tablets. Alternatively, use a natural product from Standard Process called Calcifood Wafers (calcium/phosphorus) or Calcium Lactate (calcium only). Use 1 Calcifood Wafer or 2 Calcium Lactate tablets for each ½ teaspoon of powdered bonemeal or 2 bonemeal tablets recommended in the diet, unless otherwise noted.
Consider supplementing with a multivitamin/mineral supplement as recommended. You can use a natural, raw human supplement (follow your veterinarian’s recommendation if you choose to do this), although a better suggestion is to use a natural product made for pets such as Canine Plus for dogs (VetriScience) or Nu-Cat for cats (VetriScience) following the label dose. Another product that can be used synergistically with the Canine Plus and Nu-Cat is called Catalyn (from Standard Process). The Catalyn is dosed as follows: 1 Catalyn tablet per cat per day; for dogs, use 1 pill per 25 pounds. Follow your veterinarian’s advice regarding vitamin-mineral supplementation, as other products are coming onto the market regularly.
Include plant enzymes, which can help improve the digestive efficiency of all diets. This is especially true of processed foods that do not contain natural digestive enzymes. Prozyme and Shake-N-Zyme are two recommended plant enzyme supplements that have proven beneficial for dogs and cats (other products are coming onto the market daily). Follow label directions.
Obtain additional phytonutrients and antioxidants by using green food products containing barley grass and spirulina. Use either Granular Greens from Ark Naturals, which contains spirulina and other green foods, or use Barley Dog or Barley Cat, which only contain barley grass. Other products are coming onto the market; check with your veterinarian for his recommendations.
Add a top dressing of raw or steamed shredded vegetables, which many pets will appreciate. Vegetables including kale, brussels sprouts, broccoli, and carrots will provide additional phytonutrients.
Consider feeding a health blend formula. Missing Link, for example, is quite popular with pet owners and provides vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, enzymes, and probiotics. Check with your veterinarian for her recommendations on using health blend formulas.
A number of nutritional supplements (some were mentioned previously) are available for your pet. Is there such a thing as the perfect or best supplement? Probably no one supplement is perfect for every pet or every condition. However, the best supplement should meet the following conditions:
It must be cost-effective. This does not necessarily mean the supplement should be cheap or the least expensive one available. Several factors influence the cost of a supplement. These include the quality of the ingredients, patents on the product, and advertising costs. Regarding ingredient quality, you should expect that, in general, the more expensive supplements should be expected to contain “better” or larger amounts of ingredients than a lower-priced alternative. Some supplements may be higher priced because a manufacturer holds a patent on a product. A patent only lasts a few years, and manufacturers must try to recoup the cost of the research, development, and advertisement of the product. Usually, the higher-priced supplements are of better quality than the least expensive, generic supplements. While there is not a large amount of research on many products on the market, it may be wise to select supplements that have proven effectiveness in well-designed research trials when possible.
It must be easy to administer. Supplements are available as powders, capsules, tablets, and liquids. Some pets are notorious for being difficult to medicate. Therefore, the easier it is to administer the product, the more likely it will be used. Supplements such as powders or liquids, which can be easily mixed with the pet’s diet, are often the most effective. Products that are designed to be mixed with the food must be palatable or the pet won’t eat them. Supplements are more easily mixed with natural canned foods or homemade diets than commercially prepared dry foods.
It must be effective and work, especially when it is used in the course of treating a specific illness. No supplement works all the time. Just because your friend’s dog or cat recovered from his disease after supplementation with oral fatty acids doesn’t mean that your pet would benefit from this choice of supplement. While working with your doctor, it may be necessary to try several different supplements before finding one that is effective (sometimes, no supplement seems to help the pet). While there are “bogus” products that don’t work despite their outrageous claims, by working with your doctor, you can choose supplements that have the most chance for success.
It must be free of side effects. Only rarely do any nutritional supplements cause side effects. The most common side effects are vomiting and diarrhea if the pet does not tolerate the supplement, or if too many supplements are given at one time. Some pets may refuse to eat the diet containing the supplement because of taste. Starting with just a pinch of powdered supplement or a few drops of the liquid form and gradually working up to the recommended amount usually solves this problem.
Numerous supplements are available for maintaining health and improving your dog or cat’s nutritional status. Using these supplements will benefit pets whether they eat processed diets (especially if they eat processed diets!) or foods prepared at home. Here is a brief overview of supplements most commonly recommended for augmenting the diets of healthy dogs and cats (many more supplements are discussed in Part Two). For supplements that you may be considering using in your dog or cat’s diet that are not mentioned in the text, consult with your holistic veterinarian for advice.
Every pet can benefit from a good natural vitamin-mineral supplement. No diet is perfect, and using a natural vitamin-mineral preparation assures us that the pet has at least obtained the essential macro and micronutrients each day.
A number of vitamin-mineral preparations are available. The best preparations are whole food preparations rather than synthetic, chemically processed multivitamins. These whole food products provide proper nutrition for your pet, as they provide vitamins and minerals in their natural raw states, similar to those your dog or cat would acquire by eating a natural, raw diet. By providing nutrients in this form, your pet is assured of receiving vitamins and minerals as well as all the extra nutrients and cofactors not found in processed, synthetic vitamins. These supplements should be the basic supplements for your pet, and then you can build on your pet’s individual needs from this point. See the more extensive discussion of vitamins and minerals in Part Two.
Green foods, often referred to as super green foods, contain a variety of nutrients that can supplement your pet’s diet. The most popular green foods contain barley grass, spirulina, blue-green algae, or wheat grass. These supplements are basically processed green plants, rich in chlorophyll, which serves as the lifeblood of the plant and is similar in composition to hemoglobin in the pet’s blood.
Green foods contain phytonutrients, which are chemicals derived from plant sources that exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. The method of action for these phytochemicals appears to be their ability to decrease oxidative stress by strengthening the powerful antioxidant glutathione, located in the liver. Carotenoid and indole compounds found in spinach, broccoli, and tomatoes have been shown to modify liver detoxification enzymes and inhibit tumor cell growth. Antioxidant-rich phytonutrients have been well researched and can help forestall cell death and help reduce the aging process due to oxidative damage. A greater discussion of super green foods can be found.
Health Blend Formulas are products that combine a number of plant and animal tissues in one easy-to-use powdered formula. The powder formulation allows easy administration of the product. Most products are palatable, which makes their acceptance by pets quite high.
The idea behind health blend formulas is that the heat and pressure used when preparing commercially processed foods may alter some of the nutrients contained in the foods. Providing a health blend formula gives back to the pet those nutrients that may be lacking in processed foods, including enzymes, protein and amino acids, fiber, beneficial bacteria (probiotics), phytochemicals (plant chemicals that may prove beneficial in helping your pet maintain good health and assist in fighting disease), and vitamins and minerals.
Fatty acids are important parts of your pet’s diet. In large amounts, they are useful not just as dietary supplements but as the sole or complementary therapy for several pet diseases, most commonly skin allergies.
The major fatty acids belong to the omega-3 or omega-6 series. Omega-3 and omega-6 simply refer to the chemical structure of the fatty acid. In general, omega-3 fatty acids combat inflammation (are anti-inflammatory), whereas the omega-6 series promotes inflammation (pro-inflammatory). The omega-3 fatty acids, supplied by several plants (such as flax) and some coldwater fish (salmon), are often recommended to add to the diets of pets. However, while flaxseed oil can improve the skin and coat of pets, only the omega-3 fatty acids in fish oil have been shown to act to reduce inflammation and provide other health benefits within the body. A greater discussion of fatty acids can be found in Part Two under Oral Fatty Acids.
As pet foods are processed, many nutrients including enzymes are altered or destroyed. Therefore, many nutritionists recommend providing a source of enzymes to help dogs and cats liberate the nutrients contained in the food.
Certainly, without supplemental enzymes pets can still process nutrients in their diets. However, providing extra enzymes (that would normally be present in unprocessed food in its natural state) helps pets digest their food even further, resulting in optimum nutrition. Therefore, your dog or cat receives extra nutrition from his or her food rather than the nutrients being passed into the feces.
Keep in mind that enzymes work to free nutrients from the diet as a result of increased digestion. Therefore, feeding a premium natural diet or a homemade diet is essential in order to get the most out of enzyme supplementation.
Studies have shown that supplementation with plant enzymes results in increased absorption of vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, including zinc, selenium, vitamin B6, and linoleic acid. Through the absorption of these nutrients, many disease conditions (including excessive shedding, dry and scaly skin, hairballs, digestive disturbances including diarrhea, allergies, arthritis, and reduced energy levels) improve as a result of improved nutrition.
While enzymes are available as animal enzymes (pancreatic enzymes) or plant enzymes, most holistic doctors prefer plant enzymes rather than animal enzymes. Plant enzymes supply the specific enzyme cellulase, which is not found in animal enzymes. Cellulase helps break down the cell walls of plants, which allows even more nutrients to be released and absorbed for utilization by the pet’s body. For a greater discussion of enzymes.
Note: Before you start to feed your dog or cat a home-prepared diet, it is strongly recommended that you discuss your decision with your veterinarian or a holistic veterinarian in your area. It is essential that you follow any diet’s recommendations closely, including all ingredients and supplements. Failure to do so may result in serious health consequences for your pet.
Table 3.1 Daily caloric requirements for adult dog
Table 3.2 Daily caloric requirements for cats
The following diets have been adapted with permission from: Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets, by Donald R. Strombeck, Iowa State University Press, Ames, Iowa, 1999. Remember that these recipes are guidelines only. As a feeding guideline, see tables 3.1 and 3.2 on pages 345-346. The final actual diet, including the amounts to feed and the need for supplementation, should be determined after consultation with your veterinarian.
3 large hard-boiled eggs
2 cups of long grain cooked rice (brown rice is ideal)
2 tablespoons sardines (to provide vitamin B12 and flavor), in tomato sauce
2 tablespoons chicken fat or canola oil
¼ teaspoon potassium chloride (salt substitute)
This diet provides 964 kcal, 34.1 gm of protein, and 49.4 gm of fat. The diet supports the daily calorie needs of a 33- to 34-pound dog.
Substitute cottage cheese (1 cup of 2% fat cottage cheese), ¾ pound chicken, turkey, beef, or other meat (pre-cooking weight) for the eggs. Use lean meat. Occasionally, for variety, also substitute ½ to ⅔ cup of tofu or 1 cup of soybeans for the eggs. Since dogs are not designed to be vegetarians, most doctors prefer to use meat most of the time.
Substitute 2 to 3 cups of potato, cooked with the skin, or 2 cups of cooked macaroni for the rice.
If desired, supply vitamins and minerals as follows: 4 bonemeal tablets (10-grain or equivalent) or 1 teaspoon of bonemeal powder to supply calcium and phosphorus with a multivitamin/mineral supplement, using the label instructions. Alternatively, use a natural product from Standard Process (1 Calcifood Wafer or 2 Calcium Lactate tablets for each 2 bonemeal tablets). When possible, use natural vitamins made from raw whole foods, rather than synthetic vitamins (although both can be used in combination), as the natural vitamins also supply plant phytochemicals, enzymes, and other nutrients not found in chemically synthesized vitamins. Use either Catalyn from Standard Process (at a dose of 1 Catalyn per 25 pounds) or Canine Plus from VetriScience (following label dosages) for the natural vitamin in this recipe.
Fresh, raw or slightly steamed vegetables, such as carrots or broccoli (approximately ½ to 1 cup per recipe) can be used as a top dressing for the diet for extra nutrition and variety. Most vegetables provide approximately 25 kcal per ½ cup.
Keep in mind that the nutrient composition of the diet will vary depending upon which ingredients are used. In general, the previous recipe supplies the daily nutritional and calorie needs for a 25- to 35-pound dog. The actual amount to feed will vary based upon the pet’s weight (feed less if weight is gained, more if weight is lost).
As desired, add supplements that can be beneficial, such as omega-3 fatty acids, plant enzymes, and a super green food or health blend formula.
Puppies require greater amounts of proteins, calories, and vitamins and minerals than adult dogs. Diets for puppies are suitable for puppies up to 12 months of age for pets whose adult weight is 40 pounds or less, and up to 18 months of age for pets whose adult weight is estimated to be greater than 40 pounds.
Diets for puppies are similar to those for adult dogs, as long as the protein, calories, and vitamins and minerals are increased. The diet for adult dogs can be adapted by using 5 hard-boiled eggs (rather than 3) and slightly less carbohydrates (approximately 1 ½ cups of cooked long grain brown (prefered) or white rice.
The puppy diet will provide about 765 kcal, 44.5 gm of protein, and 32 gm of fat. As a feeding guideline, follow the guidelines in table 3.1. Confer with your veterinarian to help determine the ideal amount based upon your puppy’s growth.
If your puppy does not like eggs, 1 ½ cup of cottage cheese or ½ pound of meat could be substituted. Vitamins and minerals can be supplied as follows:
4-6 bonemeal tablets (10 grain or equivalent) or 1-1 ½ teaspoons of bonemeal powder to supply calcium and phosphorus with a multi-vitamin mineral supplement using the label instructions. Alternatively, a natural product from Standard Process (Calcifood Wafers or Calcium Lactate) can be used (use 1 Calcifood Wafer or 2 Calcium Lactate tablets for each 2 bonemeal tablets.)
When possible, natural vitamins made from raw whole foods, rather than synthetic vitamins (although both can be used in combination) are preferred, as the natural vitamins also supply plant phytochemicals, enzymes, and other nutrients not found in chemically-synthesized vitamins. Catalyn from Standard Process can be used as the natural vitamin in this recipe, at a dose of 1 Catalyn per 25 pounds; Canine Plus (VetriScience) could also be used following label dosages.
Fresh, raw or slightly steamed vegetables (carrots, brocoli, etc.) can be used as a top dressing for the diet for extra nutrition, phytonutrients, and variety (approximately ½-1 cup per recipe.) Most vegetables provide approximately 25 kcal per ½ cup. Phytonutrients are chemicals derived from plant sources that exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. The method of action for these phytochemicals appears to be their ability to decrease oxidative stress by strenghtening the powerful antioxidant, glutathione, located in the liver. Carotenoid and indole compounds found in vegetables such as spinach, broccoli and tomatoes have been shown to modify liver detoxification enzymes and inhibit tumor cell growth. Antioxidant-rich phytonutrients may help forestall cell death and help reduce the aging process due to oxidative damage.
The nutrient composition of the diet will vary depending upon which ingredients are used. The actual amount to feed will vary based upon the pet’s weight (feed less if weight gain, more if weight loss.)
Added supplements which can be beneficial include omega-3 fatty acids, plant enzymes, and a super green food or health blend formula following your doctor’s recommendations.
One teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of chicken fat or canola oil should be added to the diet if a protein source (meat) other than eggs are used to provide additional fat.
Adding the chicken fat or canola oil to the diet if eggs are used as the protein source is not harmful but will add extra calories that may not be needed by many puppies.
The same diets can be used for both kittens and cats, the difference being the amount fed to meet the greater calorie requirements of the kittens. Adult cats are fed approximately 70 to 80 kcal/kg (1 kg = 2.2 pounds) of body weight each day. Since cats are not born finicky but are made that way, it is strongly recommended that kittens be offered a variety of ingredients and flavors in their diets. Taste preferences in kittens are generally set by 6 months of age. Since cats are true strict carnivores, a totally vegetarian diet will result in nutritional deficiencies.
¾ to ½ pound of ground meat (turkey, chicken, lamb, beef)
½ to 1 large hard-boiled egg
½ ounce of clams chopped in juice
4 teaspoons chicken fat or canola oil
¾ teaspoon potassium chloride (salt substitute)
100 mg taurine
If using ½ pound of chicken and ½ egg, the diet will provide 471 kcal, 53.1 gm of protein, and 27.4 gm of fat. An adult, indoor, 10-pound cat requires approximately 300 kcal of energy per day; an adult, outdoor, 10-pound cat requires approximately 360 kcal of energy per day; and a 5-pound kitten requires approximately 300 kcal of energy per day. See table 3.2 for more information and feeding guidelines.
Substitute tuna (4 ounces in water without salt), sardines (4 to 6 ounces in tomato sauce), or other fish (such as 5 ounces of salmon) for the meat protein. If desired, also occasionally substitute ½ to ⅔ cup of tofu for variety. Since cats are true carnivores, most doctors prefer to feed tofu on only an occasional basis.
Add ¾ cup of potato (cooked with the skin), rice, or macaroni, although kittens and cats do not have a defined dietary requirement for carbohydrates.
If desired, supply vitamins and minerals as follows: 3 to 4 bonemeal tablets (10-grain or equivalent) or ¾ to 1 teaspoon of bonemeal powder to supply calcium and phosphorus with a multivitamin/mineral supplement, using the label instructions. Alternatively, use a natural product from Standard Process (1 Calcifood Wafer or 2 Calcium Lactate tablets for each 2 bonemeal tablets). When possible, use natural vitamins made from raw whole foods, rather than synthetic vitamins (although both can be used in combination), as the natural vitamins also supply plant phytochemicals, enzymes, and other nutrients not found in chemically synthesized vitamins. Substitute either Catalyn from Standard Process (at a dose of one Catalyn per 10 pounds) or NuCat from VetriScience (following label dosages) for the natural vitamin in this recipe.
Use fresh, raw or slightly steamed vegetables, such as carrots or broccoli (approximately ½ to 1 cup per recipe) as a top dressing for the diet for extra nutrition and variety. Many cats, however, will not eat vegetables. Most vegetables provide approximately 25 kcal per ½ cup.
Keep in mind that the nutrient composition of the diet will vary depending upon which ingredients are used. See table 3.2 to determine how much to feed your kitten or adult cat. The actual amount to feed will vary based upon the pet’s weight (feed less if weight is gained, more if weight is lost).
If desired, add supplements that can be beneficial, such as omega-3 fatty acids, plant enzymes, and a super green food or health blend formula.