I know it’s possible that you’ll see the word week in the instructions and immediately decide not to bother and use a store-bought pickled jalapeño or something. But that would be like substituting coffee for tea—also great, just not the same fucking thing. Fermentation takes time, but it will reward you in this case with not only intensely aromatic chilies to be minced into greatness, but also a complex and deeply flavorful pickling juice that can be added to just about anything that deserves a break. I use the pickling liquid quite a lot in sauces and marinades, but if I ever have leftover liquid after the chilies are gone, I just add it to a new batch of pickles.
Every time I buy red chilies, I wash them, pat them dry, and throw them into the freezer. I actually think frozen chilies break down faster than fresh ones, but use fresh chilies if you want.
MAKES 3 CUPS
½ cup (120 g) water
6 to 8 whole dried Thai bird’s eye red chilies
1 garlic clove, peeled and cracked
2 small fresh unpeeled ginger slices
½ cup (120 mL) white rice vinegar
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons vodka
1½ tablespoons table salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns
5 ounces (130 g) red cayenne chilies (less spicy) or Thai bird’s eye red chilies (very spicy), or a combination of both
1. To make the pickling juice, in a small saucepan over high heat, combine the water, dried chilies, garlic, and ginger and bring them to a boil and cook for 30 seconds. Turn off the heat. Add the vinegar, fish sauce, vodka, salt, sugar, and Sichuan peppercorns and stir until the salt has completely dissolved.
2. Combine the pickling juice with the chilies in an airtight jar and let it sit at room temperature for at least 1 week in a hot and humid climate, or up to 3 weeks in a cool and dry climate, then transfer to the fridge. The pickled chilies should keep for up to 3 months.