ALONG THE RÍO EBRO
Follow the mighty Río Ebro on a journey that reveals something of almost everything that Spain has to offer.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
ESSENTIAL PHOTO
BEST FOR KNIGHTS IN ARMOUR
GONZALO AZUMENDI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Stand at the top of a castle turret in Olite and think back over everything you have, and will, see on this stunning drive and you’ll probably end up agreeing with us that this is perhaps the single most diverse and fascinating drive you can cover in northern Spain. Just look at what there is: dinosaurs and deserts, wine and Romanesque churches, Islamic palaces and superb tapas. This is a drive you won’t forget.
1 Reinosa
Southern Cantabria’s main town is an unexceptional place, but it is the closest centre to the start of the Río Ebro, which begins life approximately 6km east at Fontibre. While there’s not much to the town itself you can head 5km south to the Colegiata de San Pedro in Cervatos, which is one of Cantabria’s finest Romanesque churches, with rare erotic carvings on its corbels.
The Drive » To Retortillo is just a 5km meander (10 minutes) along the CA730 and CA732.
2 Retortillo
In tiny Retortillo you’ll discover the remains of Cantabria’s most significant Roman town, Julióbriga (
942 59 84 25; centros.culturadecantabria.com; adult/child €3/1.50; 
9.30am-2.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, shorter hours rest of year; 
). The guided visit at Julióbriga includes dropping into the Museo Domus, a full-scale re-creation of a Roman house.
The Drive » It’s a 10km drive along the banks of the impressive Embalse del Ebro reservoir, where the Río Ebro first makes its presence felt, to Arroyo, where you turn south down the SV6427 following signs 6km to the Monasterio de Montesclaros in Montes Claros.
3 Monasterio de Montesclaros
The Monasterio de Montesclaros has a fine site overlooking the Ebro valley. The monastery, which sits atop a cave, dates from at least the 12th century, but the site itself is thought to have provided a refuge for Christian monks and spiritual hermits from as far back as the 4th century.
The Drive » Return to Arroyo and continue east on the CA730 along the southern edge of the Embalse del Ebro reservoir. If it’s hot you might want to unpack your swimming things somewhere along the pretty lake shore. Hook up with the N232 and follow it for 118km to Briones in the La Rioja region. The scenery all the way is gentle, green and intensely rural. Allow 2¼ hours.
LINK YOUR TRIP
8 Roving La Rioja Wine Region
Once you hit Logroño, take a few days to enjoy the gift of the grape on our La Rioja Wine Region drive.
4 Spain’s Interior Heartland
Cross half the breadth of Spain – and probably more than half the diversity.
4 Briones
Even without the marvel that is the Dinastía Vivanco (Museo de la Cultura del Vino; www.dinastiavivanco.com; adult/child €8/free; 11am-6pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 10am-8pm Sat Jul-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) wine museum, pretty Briones, in the heart of La Rioja’s world-renowned wine-growing country, would be worth a stop. The tiny village sits commandingly atop a hill with views to the vine-striped plains. There’s a cute little church and a small park built around the remains of a castle. For more on the museum see Click here.
The Drive » Seeing as the navigator is likely to have tried to satisfy their wine cravings in Briones, you’ll be pleased to know that it’s just a 30-minute straight-line dash down the N232 to the wine capital of Spain: Logroño. Lucky navigator!
5 Logroño
Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, is one of those towns that on the surface doesn’t have much to attract tourists, yet everyone who comes here seems to end up having a good time. The food and, of course, the wine is exceptional, and there’s a superb museum and attractive old town. For more on the city’s sights, see Click here.
54 Click here
The Drive » With the navigator now likely singing songs about wine in the seat next to you, it’s time to see what life was like here in the days before wine. Take the N232 southeast for 33km to El Villar and turn south onto the LR123 to drive another 32km to pretty Enciso. The road leads through some stunning semidesert countryside riven by red-tinged gorges.
6 Enciso
Today eagles and vultures are commonly seen prowling the skies above Enciso, but if you had been travelling around these parts some 120 million years ago, it wouldn’t have been prowling vultures you’d need to keep an eye out for but prowling tyrannosauruses. Perhaps a little disappointingly, the dinosaurs are long gone. But if you know where to look, you can still find clues to their passing. Enciso is the centre of Jurrasic activity in these parts. The El Barranco Perdido (941 39 60 80; www.barrancoperdido.com; over 12yr/4-12yr €24/18; 11am-8pm) is a dino theme park containing a museum with complete dinosaur skeletons and an outdoor swimming pool complex. The real highlight of a visit to Enciso, though, is the chance to see some real-life dinosaur footprints scattered across former mudflats (now rock slopes) in the surrounding countryside. The nearest prints can be found just a kilometre or so east of the village – look for the terrifying T-Rex and dippy diplodocus on the hillside and you’re in the right place.
The Drive » With the navigator now scared into a sober state they can direct you back up the LR123 and, just past Arnedo, onto the LR134, which takes you through Calahorra and onto the NA653, the NA624 and, finally, a brief zoom up the AP15 and into the medieval fantasy of Olite. Total distance 78km (1¼ hours).
DETOUR:
IGLESIA RUPESTRE DE SANTA MARíA DE VALVERDE
Start: 3 Monasterio de Montesclaros
Follow the CA741 down to Arroyal de los Carabeos, then head south on the CA272 to a roundabout where it meets the CA273. Nine kilometres west on the CA273 is the remarkable Iglesia Rupestre de Santa María de Valverde. This beautiful, multiarched church, hewn from the living rock, is the most impressive of several iglesias rupestres (rock-cut churches) in this area, dating from probably the 7th to 10th centuries, the early days of Christianity in the region. Santa María church itself is often locked outside July and August, but you can arrange visits in advance through the tourist office (942 77 61 46; www.valderredible.es; Avenida Cantabria; 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) in Polientes, the area’s biggest village. Next to the church, the Centro de Interpretación del Rupestre (942 776 146; adult/child €1/free; 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, shorter hours rest of year) tells the story of the area’s curious rock-church phenomenon through photos, maps, video and multimedia – well worth a visit even if you don’t understand Spanish – and can provide plenty of useful information.
AGE FOTOSTOCK / ALAMY ©
7 Olite
The turrets and spires of Olite are filled with stories of kings and queens, brave knights and beautiful princesses – it’s as if it has burst off the pages of a fairy tale. Though it might seem a little hard to believe today, this insignificant, honey-coloured village was once the home of the royal families of Navarra, and the walled old quarter is crowded with their memories. It’s Carlos III that we must thank for the exceptional Palacio Real (Castillo de Olite; www.guiartenavarra.com; adult/child €3.50/2; 10am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun May-Jun & Sep, shorter hours Oct-Apr), which towers over the village. Back in Carlos’ day, the inhabitants of the castle included not just princes and jesters but also lions, giraffes and other exotic pets, as well as Babylon-inspired hanging gardens. Your navigator won’t want to miss the Museo de la Viña y el Vino de Navarra (www.guiartenavarra.com; Plaza de los Teobaldos 10; adult/child €3.50/2; 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Mar-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Feb), which is a fascinating journey through wine and wine culture.
The Drive » Start dressing like Lawrence of Arabia as you head south along the N121 to Arguedas on the edge of the semidesert Parque Natural de las Bárdenas Reales. It’s a pleasant 40-minute drive (47km).
8 Parque Natural de las Bárdenas Reales
In a region largely dominated by wet mountain slopes, the last thing you’d expect to find is a sunburnt desert, but in the Parque Natural de las Bárdenas Reales a desert is exactly what you’ll find. As well as spectacular scenery, the park plays host to numerous birds and animals, including the great bustard, golden eagles, vultures, mountain cats and wild boar. This may look like an almost pristine wilderness, but it is, in fact, totally artificial. Where now there is desert there was once forest, but humans, being quite dumb, chopped it all down, let his livestock eat all the lower growth, and suddenly found himself living in a desert. There are a couple of dirt motor tracks and numerous hiking and cycling trails, all of which are only vaguely signposted. There’s a park information office (948 83 03 08; www.bardenasreales.es; Km 6 military zone rd; 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Apr-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) on the main route into the park from Arguedas, which can supply information on routes.
The Drive » Head south to Tudela (its old quarter is worth a quick stop if time allows) and join the A68 for the dash to Zaragoza. Total distance 100km (1¼ hours).
9 Zaragoza
Most tourists to Spain tend to overlook Zaragoza, which is a real pity for them but a bonus for those sensible enough to visit, because this is truly one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in northern Spain. For more on the city and it’s melange of sights that include Christian and Islamic wonders, see Click here.
54 Click here
JOANOT / GETTY IMAGES ©
EATING & SLEEPING
Logroño 5
5 Marinée Restaurante Seafood €€
(941 24 39 10; Plaza de Mercardo 2-3; mains €15-20; 1.45-3.45pm Tue & Wed, 1.45-3.45pm & 9-11.30pm Thu-Sun) It’s the seafood that really garners all the attention at this resturant on the main square, and that’s no surprise: the prawns, cod, seabass and shellfish are all perfectly executed. But don’t limit yourself to the fruits of the sea: the landlubber dishes are decent too. The €22 lunch menu is the deal of the day.
4 Hotel Calle Mayor Boutique Hotel €€€
(941 23 23 68; www.hotelcallemayor.com; Calle Marqués de San Nicolás 71; r incl breakfast €120-160; 
) This delicious hotel is the place to stay in Logroño. It has huge rooms with cheeky touches such as modern lamps atop ancient columns, it’s bathed in light and simply oozes class. The staff are highly efficient.
Olite 7
4 Principe de Viana Historic Hotel €€
(948 74 00 00; www.parador.es; Plaza de los Teobaldos 2; r from €120; 
) Situated in a wing of the castle (though the cheaper rooms are in a newer extension), this offering from the Parador chain is in a sumptuous, atmospheric class of its own. Though there might be good rooms available elsewhere in town for considerably fewer euros, they don’t come with a castle attached.
4 Hotel Merindad de Olite Historic Hotel €€
(948 74 07 35; www.merindaddeolitehoteles.com; Rúa de la Judería 11; s €58-68, d €68-78; ) Built almost into the old town walls, this charming place has small but comfortable rooms and masses of medieval style. Get in fast because it fills quickly.
Zaragoza 9
5 El Ciclón Contemporary Spanish €€
(Plaza del Pilar 10; raciones €7-8.50, set menus €15-20; 11am-11.30pm) Opened in November 2013 by three acclaimed Spanish chefs (all with Michelin-star restaurant experience), the dishes here are superbly prepared. Choose between set menus and tapas and raciones (large-size tapas) such as the Canary Island favourite, papas arrugadas (new potatoes with a spicy coriander sauce), noodles with mussels, and artichokes with migas (breadcrumbs) and cauliflower cream.
4 Hotel Sauce Boutique Hotel €€
(976 20 50 50; www.hotelsauce.com; Calle de Espoz y Mina 33; s from €45, d €51-66; ) This chic, small hotel has a great central location and a light and airy look, with white wicker, painted furniture, stripy fabrics and tasteful watercolours on the walls. The superior rooms are well worth the few euros extra. Breakfast (€8) includes homemade cakes and a much-lauded tortilla de patatas (potato omelette).