ADIRONDACK BENCH 2
This variation has a straight back, because it seemed to me that a single curved back or two individual curved backs (think of bucket seats in a car) wouldn't provide optimal comfort — the latter might constrain two people who want to sit close.
1 This is a fun variation on the classic Adirondack chair. Because it is wider, it will need a seat support in the middle, as well, so you'll need to make three instead of two.
2 The nuances of the basic pattern found on page 10 are easy to modify to suit your personal preferences. In this case, I decided to “roll” the seat slats around the front edge.
ADIRONDACK BENCH • INCHES (MILLIMETERS)
3 Test fit the slats and trim as necessary so they will follow the curve of the supports
4 To avoid splitting the slats at their ends, attach them with screws inserted into predrilled screw holes.
5 For the bench, I chose to attach the arms to the front legs right away, locating the front edge of the leg at the highest point of the seat curve.
6 I next attached the two arms to the front legs, keeping them parallel to the seat supports. I allowed about an inch overhang at the front, and held the insides of the arms flush to the legs.
7 As an alternate way of supporting the back slats, I joined the arms together with a long rail across the back. I held it in place with a spring clamp while I checked the alignment.
8 When all fit well, I used four screws per side just to make sure the rail was quite securely attached.
9 The bottom edges of the back slats will nestle snugly into the gap between the seat slats. I set a few in place to get a feel for how the whole thing would shape up.
10 I used a trim router to chamfer the bottom edge of the back slats …
11 … this allowed them to press more deeply into the gap.
12 With all of the back slats in place, I used a French curve to lay out a curve in the upper corner of the back.
13 Once I had cut out one side, I traced the offcuts on the other side so that the two sides were consistent.
14 Any irregularities in the profile were easy to sand out with a hand-held belt sander.
15 Even though I chose the straightest lumber that I could, there were still some small deviations that were pretty evident at this point. Fortunately, there is an easy fix for this.
16 I clamped a 1×6 along the back of the bench and traced the profile of the curve.
17 Once the ends were cut on the 1×6, I clamped it in place and screwed it to the slats. This served to keep the slats flat and also to add some extra strength and rigidity to the back.