Chapter 2 CHUTNEYS AND ACCOMPANIMENTS
Similar in preparation and usage to pickles, simple spiced chutneys, as they are referred to in India, can be dated as far back as 500 BCE. Originating in Northern Europe, this method of preserving food was subsequently adopted by the Romans and later by the British empire which exported this technique to its colonies, Australia and America. The first chutneys that arrived in India would have been sticky, fruit-based preserves. Chutneys add that little “something extra” to every bite of a meal. A different word achar (pickle) applies to preserves that often contain oil and are rarely sweet. Vinegar or citrus juice may be added as natural preservatives, or fermentation in the presence of salt may be used to create acid. Traditionally, chutneys are ground with a mortar and pestle made of stone. Spices are added and ground, usually in a particular order; the resulting wet paste is sautéed in vegetable oil.
There are also raitas—the most common and popular Indian accompaniment—which act as a coolant for curries and other fiery-hot Indian dishes. A raita is a simple preparation made by adding fruits, vegetables, or any other thing to beaten curds. Most Indian families enjoy curds either plain or in the form of delicious raitas as an accompaniment with lunch or dinner. Raitas are unique because they are cool and spicy at the same time. A delectable cross between a sauce and a dip, they act as a digestive element. Some are even cooked and tempered to give them a different dimension.
No Indian meal is complete without at least one accompaniment, and fancy meals may have five or more. Additionally, this is one element that can be played around with, without any remorse or regret. You can use regular vegetables like peas or carrots; use readily available dips like mayonnaise to flavor; or add a twist of magic into a raita with a dash of any Indian spice, for example, mustard or fenugreek. Although I have suggested a few sample dishes where these accompaniments can be used, I urge you to trust your culinary instincts wherever possible and try experimenting with seasonal fresh fruit or other produce, basic spices, and herbs that are readily available at the market.
In India, chutneys are usually freshly made each day. However, they preserve well. I often make them in batches and save them up for when I need that extra zing of flavor.
Spiced Pear Chutney Nasapati Ki Chutney
Chutneys made with fruits are becoming popular in markets in the West as well as in boutique organic food stores. The sweet fruits of summer—peaches, plums, apples, and pears—are simmered with tangy vinegar, sugar, and spices to make this delicious version of chutney. Once you make a big batch of this, it is one of the finest preserves to keep in your cupboard year round. The chutney adds its mildly piquant and exotic note to creamy cheese on bread and crackers or to cold meats and curries. Another exciting idea is to store them in pretty bottles and give them as gifts on holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Makes about 2 cups (500 g)
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 35 minutes
3 tablespoons oil
5 dried red chili peppers, broken into pieces
1½ teaspoons fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ cup (25 g) dried fenugreek leaves (optional)
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon asafetida (optional)
6 Bartlett or Anjou pears (about 3½ lbs/1.5 kg), peeled, cored, quartered, and diced
1½ teaspoons kosher salt ¼ cup (50 g) sugar
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chilies, fennel seeds, and cumin seeds, stirring until the spices are slightly roasted and aromatic. Stir in the fenugreek leaves (if using), paprika, and asafetida (if using) and cook for another 30 seconds. Add the pears and cook until the they get juicy, about 3–4 minutes.
Stir in the salt, sugar, and vinegar. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the pears are soft, sticky, and deeply golden and caramelized, 30–40 minutes. Once cooled, transfer to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or ladle into dry and sterilized jars.
This is one of the signature collection in the Café Spice repertoire. It is an immense hit and among the most popular accompaniments. We make it fresh every day and serve it to our delighted customers, who often ask us how it is made so tasty! Here is the closest version of the secret recipe—just for you! This versatile chutney can be used as a condiment, dip, or even as a spread. When buying fresh mint, look for bright green sturdy stems and leaves with a characteristic mint fragrance.
Makes 1 cup (250 g)
Prep time: 10 minutes
2–4 medium fresh green chili peppers
2 cups (80 g) packed fresh mint leaves
1 cup (40 g) packed fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
¼ cup (65 ml) water
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt, to taste
In a food processor or a blender, process the chili peppers, mint, and coriander leaves until minced. Scrape the sides with a spatula. As you process, drizzle in the fresh lime juice and water and process until the chutney is smooth. Add the sugar and salt. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Transfer to a bowl and serve immediately or refrigerate for future use.
Tamarind Chutney Imli Chutney
This basic chutney is readily available in most kitchens in the Indian home. It is served with chaats and samosas, and closer to home, you can serve it with a huge bowl of French fries or with various fritters. The addition of dates makes it thicker and gives it some coarse texture, rather than leaving it as a smooth sauce. The shelf life of this chutney is very long, so make a big batch and store it in bottles in your pantry.
Makes about 1¼ cups (300 g)
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 35 minutes
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon asafetida (optional)
½ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
2½ cups (625 ml) water
1¼ cups (250 g) sugar
Salt, to taste
½ cup (60 g) dates, pitted chopped
3 tablespoons tamarind paste
In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds, fennel seeds, chili powder, asafetida, and Garam Masala. Cook until the spices are fragrant and lightly toasted, about 30–40 seconds.
Whisk in the water, sugar, salt, dates, and tamarind paste until completely dissolved and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium and simmer until the sauce turns thick enough to leave a trail on the back of a spoon, 20–30 minutes.
Take it off the flame, cool slightly, and use a hand blender to blend it to a smooth purée.
When it’s cold, transfer to a covered plastic container and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or ladle into dry and sterilized jars and can according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Peanut and Garlic Chutney Moong-Phali aur Lassan Ki Chutney
This chutney is usually served with wholesome meals called thalis in southern India. A thali contains several small portions of various dishes, complete with relishes and sweets. The thalis of south India use this chutney as part of their meal. For a more contemporary usage, you can also make this and serve it as a topping or dip with grilled chicken/meat skewers or any appetizers. The peanuts create a very crunchy texture that makes it delicious. The coconut, an optional ingredient, adds to the creaminess of the finished chutney.
Serves 4
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1¾ cups (180 g) skinned peanuts
½ teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
½-in (1.25-cm) piece fresh ginger, roughly chopped
2 dried red chili peppers, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons coconut milk (optional) or 2 tablespoons shredded unsweetened coconut (frozen, reconstituted, or freshly grated)
Juice of 1 lemon
Heat the oil in a skillet, add the peanuts, and fry until golden.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Put all the ingredients in a food processor and blend to a paste.
Check the seasoning and serve at room temperature.
Spinach and Tomato Raita Palak aur Tamatar Raita
This raita makes for a great table accompaniment. It can be served with chapati or a dry chicken or meat preparation for a meal. Spinach is not only a good source of iron, which is where much of its health benefit lies, but is also quick to prepare and makes the dish fresh, green, and ideal for a weekday summer meal spread that balances out any spicy main course dish.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
½ lb (250 g) fresh spinach leaves
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 cups (500 g), plain yogurt, whisked until smooth
1 small tomato (about 4 oz/125 g), chopped
½ teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, add the spinach and blanch for 30–40 seconds. Drain through a colander and refresh under running cold water. With the spinach still in the colander, press down the back of a large spoon or ladle to squeeze out the excess moisture. Pat the spinach dry with paper towels, then lay the leaves out on a chopping board and chop finely.
Heat the oil in a small skillet and place over medium heat. Add the cumin and mustard seeds and fry for 20 seconds or until the seeds begin to pop and splutter. Pour the oil and seeds into a small bowl and leave to cool.
Add the chopped spinach, cumin, mustard seeds, and chili powder into the whisked yogurt. Season with salt, black pepper, and lemon juice and keep chilled until ready to serve.
Green Pea Relish Matar Ki Chutney
Green pea is quite an unconventional ingredient to use in a relish, particularly in light of the belief that green chutney can only be made with mint and coriander leaves. But this recipe will convert you! You will find verdant pods of fresh peas in farmers’ markets all through spring and summer. Buy them in bulk and you can even store the shelled peas for later. This chutney can be used as a table accompaniment for any meal or even used as a seafood or pasta sauce as a substitute for the traditional salsa verde. Keep it chunkier and it marries very well with any white fish preparation.
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 2 minutes
2 cups (300 g) green peas, fresh or frozen
1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
2 fresh green chili peppers, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1½ tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
10 fresh curry leaves
Juice of ½ lime
Place the peas, ginger, garlic, green chilies, salt, sugar, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a food processor and blend it to a smooth purée.
Transfer to a bowl.
Heat the remaining olive oil in a small pan, add the mustard seeds and curry leaves, and let them crackle.
Remove from the heat and pour the mixture over the pea purée.
Check the seasoning and finish with the lime juice.
Lentil and Sprout Relish Dal aur Phooti Mung ka Salaad
Sprouting is a time-consuming process, but for most of us, it is worth every effort, just because of the health benefits. You need to soak the beans overnight, drain off all the water, rinse, and allow some air to circulate into the rinsed beans. Only then will the beans germinate or sprout. An easier alternative is to buy them already sprouted at the grocery store. This recipe uses green gram (mung beans), which is always the best option. This dish is a favorite among weight watchers. You can add a few more ingredients to convert it into a wholesome salad or make it a delicious, healthy meal by adding dried fruits, walnuts, apples, carrots, or even spinach leaves.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
½ cup (50 g) sprouted green gram (moong dal)
½ cup (100 g) split yellow peas (chana dal), soaked overnight and boiled until tender
2 cucumbers (about 8 oz/250 g), peeled, seeded, and chopped
¼ cup (10 g) fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), chopped
1 fresh green chili pepper, seeded and finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon oil
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
Mix together the sprouted green gram, split yellow peas, cucumber, fresh coriander leaves, lemon juice, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the mustard seeds. When they splutter, take the pan off the heat and stir in the yogurt. Add this mixture to the salad and toss well. Serve immediately.
Pumpkin Pickle Kaddu ka Achaar
This is one of those recipes that I produced from memory after I first had a taste of it at the Malhotra family’s house. It is Sushil’s mother-in-law, Durupadi Jagtiani’s recipe. I can still remember the first bite of this pickle: the tartness of a sour ingredient that was so well complemented by the sweetness of the red pumpkin and the heat of the red chilies. Although this recipe uses dried mango powder (popularly known as amchoor in India), lime juice can be an easy substitute.
Serves 4
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
4 dried red chili peppers, broken into 2–3 pieces each
1 lb 9 oz (700 g) peeled pumpkin flesh, cut into ½-in (1.25-cm) dice
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
5 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons dried green mango powder (amchoor, optional)
Heat the oil in a pan, add the fenugreek seeds and dried red chilies, and let them pop.
Add the pumpkin and stir over a high heat for 3–4 minutes.
Stir in the salt, chili powder, and turmeric. Then reduce the heat, cover, and cook until the pumpkin is soft and begins to break down.
Stir in the sugar—the sweetness balances the heat and spice and also makes the pickle glossy.
Finish with the dried mango powder, if using.
South Indian Cabbage Slaw Kosu Pachdhi
Coleslaw is one of the most common accompaniments and it is often used as a salad in American recipes. This version has a spice twist that gives it an Indian flavor. It can be used on sandwiches, hotdogs, or burgers and even served as an accompaniment to grilled and baked entrees. An interesting option that can be used instead of mayonnaise is yogurt, which gives an equivalent creamy texture, minus all the calories! Additionally, the yogurt and the Indian spices in this recipe go very well together.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 2 minutes
¼ head cabbage (about 4 oz/125 g), shredded
1 medium carrot, peeled and grated (about 1 cup/100 g)
¼ cup (25 g) shredded unsweetened coconut (frozen, reconstituted, or freshly grated)
Juice of 1 lime
1 fresh green chili pepper, minced
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons oil
¼ teaspoon mustard seeds
¼ teaspoon cumin seeds
8–10 curry leaves
½ cup (125 g) yogurt
Mix the shredded cabbage, carrots, and shredded coconut in a bowl.
Whisk the lime juice, green chili, sugar, and salt in a small bowl. Pour this dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss well.
Heat the oil in a small pan, add the mustard and cumin seeds, and when they pop, add the curry leaves and yogurt. Remove from the heat and mix with the cabbage and carrot mixture. Transfer to a serving dish and serve cold.
