CHAPTER TWO

Fabrics

Nylon. Cordura. Polyester. Silnylon. Gore-Tex. Wool. Polartec. Pertex. Where would the outdoor adventurer be without these (and so many other) wonder fabrics? We’d be cold, wet, and miserable, that’s where.

And here’s the reality: These technical fabrics that are so omnipresent in our clothing, shelters, sleeping bags, and packs are not invincible. Rips happen, and so do holes, seam failures, and leaks, even in the most expensive items.

This chapter will show you how to repair all the major types of fabric found in outdoor gear. The majority of the fixes I’ll cover will rely on adhesives of some sort. Why? Because I have minimal patience for sewing and I have no time or desire to add it to my skill set. I only break out the needle and thread for straightforward patch jobs or small, simple repairs on soft items—like fleece, wool, and polyester baselayers (adhesives won’t work on these because they need a hard surface on which to stick). If something requires serious needle-and-thread work, I’m sending it off to the pros for a perfect repair.

Waterproof and Smooth-Faced Fabrics

TINY HOLES

These fixes will work on apparel, gaiters, tents, sleeping bag shells, and a whole slew of other items—essentially any synthetic fabric that has a smooth surface.

If a campfire ember lands on your sleeve and burns a hole right through, don’t sweat it, just perform this ten-second fix.

This hole is about as big as the tip of a pencil.

Step 1: Clean the area with an alcohol prep pad.

Step 2: Hold a small piece of paper or tape on the backside of the hole to prevent adhesive from seeping through the hole.

Step 3: Smear a dollop of Seam Grip over the hole, smoothing it out with a Popsicle stick, toothpick, or the brush provided (see “Seam Grip Tip” sidebar).

Let the Seam Grip settle into the hole, then smooth it over the fabric so it extends about ¼ inch on all sides.

Step 4: Let it cure for at about eight hours, then remove the backing.

BEFORE YOU START

The first step to any repair involving adhesives is to clean any gunk off the face of the fabric. Those little alcohol prep pads in your first-aid kit work great, or you can use a cotton ball and a bottle of alcohol from your medicine cabinet.

SEAM GRIP TIP

Save the brush that came with your Seam Grip for bigger jobs, like seam-sealing tents and painting along long seams. The reason? Once used, the brush is shot—nothing I’ve tried (rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, mineral spirits, etc.) will remove the sticky stuff from the bristles. For small jobs where minimal spreading is required, opt for a Popsicle stick, toothpick, or plastic take-out knife, which do the job just fine and can be wiped clean more easily or tossed in the bin without guilt.

MEDIUM HOLES AND TEARS

Got a hole in your jacket, rain pants, tent, or gaiters? This sew-free technique is so easy it can be done in a matter of minutes in the field.

Step 1: Trim any loose or fraying threads.

It’s much easier and cleaner in the end if you take the time to remove little threads.

Step 2: Cut a patch of Tear-Aid or Tenacious Tape that extends at least ¼ inch beyond the edges of the hole. Round the edges of the patch (so they’re less prone to peeling). Apply the patch to the inside of the fabric, smoothing it from the center outward to release any air bubbles.

Before applying the patch, wipe the surface clean with an alcohol prep pad.

PATCHING INSULATED GARMENTS

This is such an easy repair, you’ll feel like you’re cheating. The technique is identical to patching a hole in a sleeping bag shell, so refer to Chapter 7 for the full scoop.

Step 3: Paint the exterior side of the hole with Seam Grip, extending the requisite ¼ to ½ inch beyond the problem area. Let it cure thoroughly. The only drawback of this technique is that when the Seam Grip dries, it’s fairly visible—in the form of a slick-looking smear. Personally, I don’t mind this.

Run a generous bead of Seam Grip along the tear, then gently smooth it flat.

Step 4: But if you do, consider skipping the Seam Grip and instead using an identical Tenacious Tape or Tear-Aid patch on the front side. Make sure that the centers of each patch bond to each other for maximum durability. This is a great, clean-looking solution for clothing, because both tapes are clear and blend right in with any fabric color.

The clear patch is barely visible on the sleeve of this rain shell.

LINED GARMENTS

Some jackets and pants have free-hanging inner liners that can foil your sewing attempts because you can’t flip the fabric over and gain access to the back. But I’ve recently had luck with this no-sew technique on an old pair of lined rain pants belonging to my husband.

Step 1: Lay the garment out flat (no wrinkles in either the face or the liner fabric!) and trim any fraying threads. Cut a swath of Tenacious Tape or Tear-Aid that will handle the wound, and peel off the backing.

Nylon often tears in an L shape, which makes the repair simple because you just position the flap back in place.

Step 2: Carefully work the patch into the hole/tear with the sticky side up. Though this patch is destined to live between the liner fabric and the face fabric, it will only adhere to the inner surface of the face fabric.

Inserting the patch can be a bit tricky, but the key is to make sure everything is smooth and bubble-and wrinkle-free.

Step 3: When the patch is situated perfectly, press the face fabric into the patch so it adheres. If it’s a tear you’re working on (as opposed to a hole with fabric missing in the center), rejoin the edges of the tear as closely as possible against the patch.

Try to avoid wrinkles in the fabric as shown here, because once the tape is in place, it’s very difficult to move. Wrinkles don’t affect performance, only cosmetics. In the case of these twenty-year-old rain pants, cosmetics were of little concern.

Step 4: Paint the area with Seam Grip and let it cure overnight.

When Seam Grip dries, it will have a glossy sheen.

NOW OR LATER?

When your Gore-Tex jacket or tent rainfly gets gashed in the field, it almost never happens at a time when you can immediately stop what you’re doing, pull out your repair kit, and make a really solid, permanent repair. (The adhesives required take at least four hours to cure properly.) So don’t rush it. You’re way better off making a quick, temporary repair that will get you through the trip, and then doing it right back home.

Unless you really have no other option, resist the urge to slap a piece of duct tape over a rip or hole. Yes, it will likely stick for a good long while, but when you peel it off to make the “real” fix, it leaves behind residue that’s tough to get off. Instead, patch it with Tear-Aid or Tenacious Tape, which sticks just as well, is equally waterproof, and is a cinch to peel off.

Soft Fabrics

Adhesives don’t stick to fuzzy fleeces and wools or stretchy polyester baselayers, which is why good repair gurus need to know a couple of very basic stitches.

STITCHES TO KNOW

Whip Stitch

This no-brainer stitch works well anytime you want to join two edges together or sew on a patch, and it’s what I use about 95 percent of the time because it’s easy and strong. Just make continuous loops in a tight, uniform line. (Tip: Run the stitches diagonally across the seam for a better hold, and work with the garment inside out for the most invisible stitch line.)

Running Stitch

This one works well in areas that are not typically stressed or tensioned, like on the hem of your hiking pants. You simply swoop the threaded needle in and out of the fabric (picture a dolphin jumping in and out of the water). The key: Stitches should be evenly spaced (no more than ¼ inch) and both the underside and the topside should look identical.

Back Stitch

This is one of the strongest stitches you can make without a sewing machine. It’s ideal for patches that might see some stress (think elbow or knee).

Step 1: Starting at the backside of the fabric, bring the needle down to the front side. Make a small stitch forward (¼ to ½ inch) up through to the backside.

Step 2: For the next move, double halfway back into the first stitch, and come through to the front.

Step 3: Moving up toward the back again, step the next stitch forward. (Tip: Make sure each stitch is equal in size. I typically try to make each one about the size of a piece of long-grain rice.)

Step 4: Again, double halfway back through the previous stitch and come down to the front. Continue this way throughout your repair, so that each new stitch you make reinforces the last one.

TYING OFF/FINISHING A SEWING JOB

I’ve already admitted that I’m sewing-challenged, mostly from a lack of patience, but also, largely, because finishing or tying off even a simple seam has always befuddled me. Then I learned these key tips:

• If using a whip stitch (like I do most of the time), make sure to start to decrease the size of your stitches as you reach the end of the tear. Your new seam should extend about ¼ inch beyond the actual tear and taper down to the tiniest of stitches. This prevents any puckering or bulging at the end of your new seam.
• To tie off any sewing job, just pull the needle through to the back and take a tiny in-and-out stitch of fabric. Pull the needle through ’til you have a loop of thread remaining and place the needle through that loop. Gently pull until a knot forms against the fabric. Then repeat another loop and knot right next to it. Pull to tighten, and snip the thread.

REAL PEOPLE, REAL PROBLEMS: SEWING A TEAR

Bill Brown, a freelance writer from Redding, California, was making a snowboard descent of Mount Shasta on a warm June day while wearing his beloved midweight zip-turtleneck from Icebreaker (pictured). “It was an amazing ride in the summer slush until about halfway to the trailhead when I caught an edge and took a dive down the mountain’s face. No major bodily harm done, but while I was cartwheeling, my forearm managed to whack the edge of my board, which resulted in a 1½-inch gash in my sleeve and my arm.”

This whip stitch may be crude, but it’s effective.

The Fix: A nice, tight whip stitch seam. It doesn’t have to be picture-perfect, just functional. In this case, because the fabric had a loose, stretchy weave, I wanted to make sure the seam held, so I doubled back over it, essentially giving it a seam on top of a seam.

Bill Brown loves his wool midlayer from Icebreaker.

Splurge! Need to amp up the warmth on your next camping trip? Buy a new insulating layer. Consider these pros and cons to find the materials right for you.

INSULATION	PROS	CONS
Down puffy	Maximum warmth-to-weight ratio; supreme packability; super durable	Wet = useless because feathers flatten and clump; expensive
Synthetic puffy	Still functions when wet (doesn’t lose loft, like down); less expensive than down	Not as warm or packable as down
Fleece	Ideal for warmer-weather insulation or cold-weather midlayer while on the move (it breathes); dries fast	Bulky when packed
Wool	Looks great; sustainably sourced; provides a lot of warmth in a thin layer	Heavyish

FEATURES TO LOOK FOR:

• Well-placed pockets that won’t be blocked when you wear your backpack
• Smooth-running zippers
• A tapered, thermally efficient cut that works well with your other layers
• A long, butt-length hem
• A hood (or not, depending on your preference)
• Cuffs that fit your wrist snugly, but without pinching, to prevent drafts
• A hem drawcord so you can stymie drafts from below
• A cozy, snug-fitting neckline with a soft lining that feels good under your chin

Cleaning and Storing

Dirt, sweat, campfire smoke, sunscreen, bug repellent, single malt scotch, and beef stroganoff. These are just a few of the things that inevitably build up on our outdoor clothing. And while proper, regular cleaning is key to making your clothes last and perform their best, here’s the rub: Excessive washing will cause premature wear. The key is knowing when a wash is due. If your fleece jacket smells like armpits, or your rain pants are caked with mud from the knee down, it’s pretty obvious. Assuming typical, regular usage, consider these guidelines for when to wash. (Of course, if you’re an uber-user, you’ll have to do it more frequently; if you’re an occasional user, dial it back.)

ONCE PER SEASON

• Shell gear (Note: Shell gear should also be washed—and treated with a DWR—whenever you discover that it’s no longer beading water.)
• Synthetic or down insulated jackets
• Fleece or wool midlayers
• Gloves, hats, and gaiters

AFTER EACH TRIP

• Baselayers
• Socks
• Hiking pants, shorts, and T-shirts

WARRANTIES: AM I COVERED?

Most outdoor gear companies have excellent warranty departments—they want you to be satisfied with your purchases so you’ll become a repeat customer. Companies generally won’t replace or repair items that are just plain worn out or stuff that has been obviously abused or used improperly. But for fluky stuff that shouldn’t happen during normal use—if a fabric delaminates or a tent pole hub cracks or a shoulder strap pops off, for example—they will often fix or replace the item at no cost (aside from shipping). Bottom line: For big problems, it can’t hurt to ask.

Washing Outdoor Apparel

For starters, invest in a gear-specific cleaner (many are suggested in this chapter). Household detergents are okay in a pinch, but they leave behind residues that can hinder a shell’s breathability, a baselayer’s wicking ability, or, in the case of wool, make it scratchier. It’s not something you’ll notice right away, but you’re shortchanging yourself over the life of the garment. Follow these tips to get the most out of each wash:

These cleaners only end up costing a few bucks per washing.

• Make a trip to the laundromat. Big commercial washers and dryers have the volume required to give your gear plenty of breathing room, plus the front-loading washers lack center agitators that can damage garments.
• Check the directions on the label. Typically, you’ll want to wash gear with warm or cold water on the gentle cycle, and dry in medium heat.
• Zip all zippers and fasten all Velcro and snaps to prevent any undue abrasion.
• Pretreat any stains with your purpose-built cleaner and let it soak in for a few minutes before beginning the cycle.
• Run the washer through an extra rinse cycle (to remove any residue) and spin cycle (to extract water).
• Before you toss any shell gear into the dryer, give it a spray with a DWR treatment (I like ReviveX Spray-On Water Repellent). Pay particular attention to key spots: on the shoulders, along the front zipper, and at the cuffs. These areas tend to wet out faster than others.
• Dry on medium heat until gear is dry to the touch. Any puffy insulated items should also be hung or laid out to air-dry overnight.

PRO FIX

If your garment suffers any of the following afflictions, it’s time to call in the big guns. Send it back to the manufacturer or to one of the specialists listed in the appendix at the end of this book.

• A huge gash or hole, bigger than, say, 3 × 3 inches, or any sewing job that will cause you angst or frustration
• A full-on zipper blowout, where the zipper tape pulls away from the fabric for a continuous stretch that’s longer than what you can hand-sew without losing your sanity
• A tricky sewing job that needs the meticulous stitches that can only come from a sewing machine. Examples: a pocket corner tear, a drawcord that rips out of its channel, a ripped-off Velcro patch

PURPOSE-BUILT SOAPS

For Shells

• ReviveX Synthetic Fabric Cleaner
• Nikwax Tech Wash
• Granger’s Performance Wash

For Baselayers

• Nikwax Base Wash (any synthetics)
• Nikwax Wool Wash
• ReviveX Wool, Silk, and Bamboo Cleaner
• Granger’s Performance Wash

For Down-filled Garments and Sleeping Bags

• Nikwax Down Wash
• ReviveX Down Cleaner
• Granger’s Performance Wash

For Synthetic-filled Garments and Sleeping Bags

• ReviveX Synthetic Fabric Cleaner
• Granger’s Performance Wash

Removing Pine Sap

Pine sap is one of those things that can be a total pain in the butt if you don’t have the right stuff to remove it. If you do have the right stuff and the right techniques, however, it’s like wiping up spilled milk. Here are some tips for different types of gear:

• For clothing or other small items: Wait ’til you get home and stick the item in the freezer for a couple of hours until the sap is very hard and crackly. Then crease the sap stain and roll the crease back and forth between your fingers. The sap should break away from the fabric. Gently scrape any residual sap off with a plastic spatula or knife.
• For a sleeping bag or tent (too big for the freezer): Soak a sponge with one of these household items: rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, or Goo Gone (found at all home improvement stores), and scrub away. Once the sap is gone, clean the fabric with hot water. (Tip: Always test a small, hidden area first, to make sure the fabric and/or fabric coatings don’t react.)
• For boot leather: Smear the sap with peanut butter (preferably smooth, not crunchy), work it in, and then wash away.

Removing Duct Tape Residue

Let’s face it: Sometimes duct tape is all we have on hand to patch a tear. It will do the trick and stick around for the duration of your trip and then some (especially if you round the edges). But when you peel it off, you’re left with a gunky residue that doesn’t just come out in the wash. I’ve tried just about everything and found the best results with Goo Gone Spray Gel, an oil-based cleaner found at most home improvement stores. Goo Gone doesn’t stain fabric and doesn’t seem to affect its performance. WD-40 works almost as well, while Goof-Off and Jigaloo stain fabric. But you be the judge.

I tried cleaning duct tape residue with four different products. As the photo above shows, the results vary considerably.

GUNKED-UP VELCRO

Have you ever looked really closely at Velcro? (If not, check it out on almost any shell jacket you have in your closet.) The generic name for this ubiquitous fastener is “hook and loop,” and a close inspection will show you why: The fuzzy (aka “loop”) side of the tape is made of a tangled nest of whorled fibers. The scratchy (aka “hook”) side has tight rows of miniature plastic fishhooks. When joined, the hooks grab onto the loops for dear life, and you’ve got the perfect seal for any type of cuff.

With serious use, the hook side of the Velcro can get clogged with lint, fibers, dirt, and other debris, which inhibits its ability to form a good seal. If your Velcro starts to look like a miniature lint tray, try these tricks to clean the gunk out:

• Carefully comb through the hooks using a needle or pin.
• Scrub the hooks using a dry toothbrush.
• When machine-washing any item with Velcro, make sure both sides are joined. Not only will this prevent stuff from accumulating, it will protect face fabrics from scratching on the hooks.

This is the loop side…

and these are the hooks.

Pluck debris from the hooks. (Debris doesn’t typically collect in the loops.)

Splurge! Ready for a shell upgrade? If so, consider these features.

CHOOSE THIS …	OR THAT
Hardshell: For the most absolute rain protection in the lightest possible package	Softshell: Generally more breathable and stretchier for more freedom of movement, but often heavier
Hooded: Key for hikers and backpackers or anyone who may be out in sustained rain; check for snug adjustments and good peripheral vision	Hoodless: Fine for runners and bikers
Full-zip style: Easy on and off; most versatile in terms of venting	Anorak: Great protection with a slight weight and packed size savings
Pit zips: Long underarm vents that let you dump heat during high-aerobic activities	Pocket vents: Mesh-lined pockets (when left open) aren’t as effective as pit zips, but they’ll save you a bit of money and pack weight
Pack-friendly pockets: Placed slightly high, so that they remain accessible when you’re wearing a pack hipbelt	Lower handwarmer pockets: More comfortable for casual, everyday use
Velcro wrist cuffs: Create a tight, weatherproof seal that is adjustable to fit over gloves and different types of layers	Elastic cuffs: Often on lighter, less expensive jackets; allow you to push sleeves up your arms for quick air-conditioning while on the move.