CHAPTER THREE

Zippers

Talk to any warranty department or any gear fix-it shop, and they’ll tell you that, without any shred of a doubt, zipper failures are the most common problem that befalls hiking gear and apparel. It’s not surprising when you think about all the times you’ve probably yanked mercilessly at your various zippers: like trying to get out of your bag at 3 a.m. with a bursting bladder … or desperate to get the tent door closed quickly after diving through a cloud of mosquitoes … or forcing a zipper on an overloaded pack pocket. These scenarios usually happen when a tiny flap of fabric gets caught in the slider’s path. Modern day zippers are tough, but they’re not immune to repeated yanking.

On jackets, zippers provide critical venting options.

With every tug the slider gets slightly misshapen: The top and bottom pieces begin to open slightly so they don’t mesh the coils when they pass over them, and the little separator bar in the bowels of the slider also takes some wear. Many times worn sliders can be pinched back into place using needle-nose pliers (see “Real People, Real Problems,” this chapter). But this is generally a temporary fix and a sign that the slider will eventually need to be replaced.

Zippers 101

Learn these terms to help you troubleshoot your own zipper problems.

COIL ZIPPER

Coil Zipper

These have a continuous wrap of nylon filament, which interlock as the slider is passed over. Coil zips are generally more lightweight than tooth zips, and are available in waterproof versions. Coil zips also wear more gradually than tooth zips, so you’re less likely to have catastrophic failure in the field.

TOOTH ZIPPER

Tooth Zipper

Also called Vislon zippers, these have individual blocks of nylon that interlock as the slider is passed over. Tooth zippers are extremely rugged, but slightly bulkier and heavier than coils. And if a tooth does crack off, the zipper is immediately shot, with no hope for repair—only replacement.

ZIPPER ANATOMY

• Separating zipper: Zippers that come apart at both ends (like on a jacket)
• Nonseparating zipper: Zippers that are fused on each end (like on a pack pocket or duffle bag)
• Slider: The small mechanism that passes over the zipper to align and join the two sides
• Tape: The fabric on either side of the zipper
• Pull: The grab-tab that attaches to the slider
• Stop: Small plastic blocks at each end of the zipper that prevent the slider from coming off the tape
• Retainer box: On separating zippers only; the box at the bottom of the slider side that accepts the insertion pin
• Insertion pin: On separating zippers only; the squarish pin at the bottom of the non-slider side that fits into the retainer box

FOR TRIVIA GEEKS

Zippers were first invented in 1851 by Elias Howe, the same guy who invented the sewing machine. On the patent he filed, he called it the “Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure.” But so preoccupied was he with marketing his sewing machine that he failed to take his closure public. Fast forward forty years: A gadget freak named Whitcomb Judson came up with his own version of the zipper, which he called the “Clasp Locker.” Judson launched his invention at the 1893 Chicago World Fair. Flash forward another thirty-two years: The term “zipper” was born, thanks to the B.F. Goodrich Company, which used them in rubber galoshes.

Prevention

We’ve all been there: A piece of fabric or grit gets caught in the slider and we’re rushing to move on so we yank, maybe gently at first, but eventually with more force until the slider succumbs and the zipper is zipped. You may think this is a small victory, but keep it up and the slider will get its revenge in the end.

The best thing you can do for your zippers is not yank! If it gets jammed, stop manhandling it. Inspect it to determine the problem. Then remove the problem—in many cases this means gently pulling the fabric out of the slider, not the other way around.

A note on waterproof zippers: These have become very popular on lightweight jackets and pants and backpacks. It’s easy to see why: Since the zipper tape is coated with waterproofing, designers can forgo using storm flaps, which saves weight and makes for a very clean look—both of which are great selling points. But sliders don’t always play well with waterproof coatings. They tend to grab more frequently, which usually results in the frustrating tug-of-war described on page 25.

Your best bet is to keep waterproof zippers well lubed, using a purpose-built product like McNett Zip Care. It’s a liquid lubricant and cleaner in one. First, use a dry toothbrush to remove any visible debris. Then lightly brush the lubricant onto both sides of the zipper and make a few passes with the slider—you should immediately notice less friction and a smoother slide.

Apply a light coat of lubricant to the zipper, then wipe off any excess.

REAL PEOPLE, REAL PROBLEMS: PINCHING A WORN SLIDER

Scott Rohrig, from Centennial, Colorado, had been using his Mountainsmith fanny pack for a good ten years before the burly front pocket zipper finally gave way to a decade of yanking. “I was headed for the summit of Wheeler Peak (13,161 feet) in New Mexico. I unzipped it to grab my camera and it never closed again. Six years have passed and this little workhorse has languished in my basement. If I’d known it was such an easy fix, I would have done it a long time ago!”

The Fix: After years of use the slider was slightly misshapen—the top and bottom had opened up enough so that they didn’t weave the coils together. A simple (but strong) squeeze with needle-nose pliers had it back in the race. (Tip: Back the zipper all the way up into the open position, then squeeze one side at a time, gently at first. Keep trying the zipper to see if it closes, and then apply increasing pressure as needed. Be sure to apply equal pressure to both sides of the slider, and be gentle with it from here on out: Eventually that slider will need replacement, but this trick can eke some more life out of it.)

A common problem with an easy, albeit temporary fix.

Worn or stretched-out sliders can often be coerced back into shape with needle-nose pliers.

Scott Rohrig poses with his fanny pack in Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado.

Replacing a Slider

If a slider is toast—meaning that you can’t fix it by pinching it closed—you’ll have to remove it from the zipper track before replacing it, and removing it is sometimes the trickiest part.

Before you remove a slider, make a note of the size, so you can get the proper replacement. Zippers come in many different brands and sizes; the size is usually engraved on the back of the slider. The most common sizes for outdoor gear and apparel range from 3 (smaller zippers found on lightweight jackets, for instance) up to 10 (big, beefy ones found on packs and sleeping bags).

This is a #5 tooth—or Vislon—slider.

PRO FIX

Sometimes you’re better off sending your zipper repair off to expert sewers (see the appendix) rather than risk botching it.

• If teeth are broken off or coils are completely trashed, the whole zipper tape needs to be replaced.
• If the zipper tape has come away from the fabric and requires more than a few hand stitches, you’re better off having the whole zipper replaced.
• If you don’t like the looks of the utilitarian Flip an Zip and want a new color-matched slider, send it off to the pros.

SEPARATING ZIPPERS

It’s fairly straightforward to replace a slider on a separating zipper (like those found on jackets or sleeping bags), because you have easy access to the top of the zipper tape and don’t need to rip any seams to extricate the bad slider. All you need are a few tools (wire cutters and needle-nose pliers) and a new top stop (you can find them at any sewing shop for pennies).

Step 1: Using a pair of wire cutters, crack off the top stop.

Step 2: Slide the damaged slider off the track.

Step 3: Slip the new slider onto the track.

Step 4: Finish the repair by crimping on a new top stop with your needle-nose pliers.

NONSEPARATING ZIPPERS

It’s trickier to remove a slider on a nonseparating zipper because the ends are sewn into the item and often covered with binding tape. But it’s still possible to remove and replace a slider on a nonseparating zipper without creating a pesky sewing job.

Smaller zippers can often be easily pried off with a flat-head screwdriver. Just work the head of the screwdriver under one of the “wings” or into the rear opening and try to pop it off. Be careful not to gouge yourself—it sometimes takes a little force. If it doesn’t want to give using just a screwdriver, don’t risk damaging the zipper’s coils or teeth; move on to the next option.

Medium-size to large zippers require specialized tools. The best option is a pair of carpenter’s pincers, which can easily bite through even the beefiest zippers.

A super-simple method for replacing a slider on a nonseparating zipper entails using a smart device called a Flip an Zip (flipanzip.com), which comes in a variety of sizes to fit most any zipper. It’s a two-piece metal slider that thumbscrews into place on the zipper track—coil or tooth. You simply place the Flip an Zip slider over the two sides of the zipper and tighten the thumbscrew. Then attach the included zipper pull and you’re back in business.

Tip: Many modern zippers are reversed, so the coils are less exposed to the elements and the backside of the zipper faces outward. In these cases the Flip an Zip can be installed with the thumbscrew on the inside—it’s a bit trickier to manage, but totally doable with a touch of patience.

The only downsides to the Flip an Zip solution are that it’s a tad heavier than normal sliders and it’s not as aesthetically pleasing as they only come in a no-nonsense metal finish.

You can often just pry off a bad slider on smaller-size zippers.

For larger zippers cut through the center post of the slider using a pincer tool.

Install the Flip an Zip slider.

Fixing a Misaligned Tooth

If a tooth on a Vislon zipper cracks off in the field, you’re out of luck, and it’s time to get creative to come up with a way to keep your jacket fastened for the remainder of the trip. But sometimes a tooth just becomes misaligned a bit, like it did on my son’s favorite fleece jacket. In cases like this all it takes is a gentle pinch with the pliers to realign the teeth. If the tooth cracks off during your attempt, well, you gave it a shot. But now you’ll need to have the whole zipper replaced.

Sometimes an individual tooth will not mesh properly with its mate on the other side. When that happens, you can’t move the slider beyond that spot.

Lightly pinch the crooked tooth back into place.