CHAPTER EIGHT
Sleeping Pads
I remember my first sleeping pad—a thin, closed-cell foam pad that cost only 15 bucks. It did the job when I was young and foolish, but then someone lent me a standard Therm-a-Rest. The difference was pretty profound. That was twenty years ago, and sleeping pads have come a long way since then. I now sleep on supremely cushioned air mats (with insulation in cold weather), and I’ll never go back. In my opinion, a comfy pad is one of the most critical pieces of gear on any trip.
Air Mattresses
One of the best gear investments you can make, an air mat can also lead to utter frustration if it springs a leak in the field. This section will teach you how to cope.
FINDING HOLES
Follow the trail of bubbles to find itty-bitty pinhole leaks.
Mark the spot immediately so you don’t forget where it is.
Sometimes the leak is apparent. Sometimes it’s not. If you can’t find the source of the escaping air, try this: fully inflate the pad. Then find a puddle, creek, or some other body of clear water (the stiller the better; a roiling river makes it tough to spot the problem). Submerge one end of the pad and fold it over to increase pressure. Carefully inspect the submerged portion. You’re looking for tiny bubbles that will lead you to the leak. Work your way down the pad methodically, submerging and refolding each section until you spot it. Have a pen or piece of duct tape handy. When you spot the leak, you’ll want to mark it clearly so that you don’t have to perform this step again. Once you’ve marked the spot, set the pad out to dry before proceeding.
Especially if you use your pad as a camp chair, treat it carefully to prevent abrasion and holes.
REAL PEOPLE, REAL PROBLEMS: PINHOLE IN MATTRESS
Max Katzmartsic, from St. Helena, California, has a good war story about his Therm-a-Rest pad. “We had rented a houseboat on Lake Berryessa for my buddy’s bachelor party. But the party lasted longer than me, so I left my friends on the boat and found a quiet spot on the little island where we were anchored. The star thistle was everywhere, unavoidable. Come morning, I had a deflated pad to go along with my headache.”
Max katzmartsic posing for a self-portrait on top of Half Dome in Yosemite.
The Fix: After I located the tiny pinhole by submerging it in my pool (a bathtub or mellow creek also works), I marked the spot, let the pad dry, and cleaned the area with an alcohol prep pad. Then I opened the valve (this is important because you want to release the pressure inside the pad so it doesn’t force the adhesive to bubble), squirted a dollop of Seam Grip over the hole, and let it dry overnight.
FIXING LARGER HOLES OR TEARS
Murphy’s Law states that most pad problems happen in the middle of a backcountry trip, so the fix needs to happen fast and out there. Here’s how to handle it: When you rise and shine after a grueling night of sleeping on your flat pad, get to work while everyone else has breakfast. You need to accelerate the curing process so you can sleep on your pad that night. Follow these steps:
This little tear can spell big trouble if you don’t know the fix.
Step 1: Have a round adhesive patch at the ready (either Tenacious Tape or Tear-Aid). Remove the backer and mix a dollop of Seam Grip and a few drops of water using the backer as a palette (the water will speed cure time).
Step 2: Apply the mixture to the hole.
Step 3: Apply the patch with firm pressure.
Step 4: Weight it down with the heaviest rock you can find and go hiking for the day. When you come back, it should be good to go!
Washing Your Pad
You could go years and years without washing your pad, but why not give it a bath every season when you’re already washing your tent or pack? It’s super easy. Just inflate the pad and scrub it down with a brush and soapy water. Then let it dry. If nothing else, it will smell better.
Preventing Slippage
Sometimes the nylon shell of your sleeping bag and the nylon shell of your pad are like butter on a pancake griddle. If you’ve ever had that unsettling feeling of constantly slipping off your pad at night when you’re camped on sloping or less-than-flat tent sites, try this simple trick to add a little friction to your pad: Add small dots of Seam Grip (or you can use silicone caulking from the home improvement store) to the pad’s surface. Once it dries, the adhesive acts kind of like a boot sole—giving your pad some traction when it meets the slick nylon of your sleeping bag shell. If your pad tends to slip around on your tent floor, you can also apply some dots to the pad’s underside.
No need to cover the entire pad with dots—just focus on the key points of contact: the head, shoulders, and hips.
Storing Your Pad
Uninsulated air mats can be stored rolled into their little stuff sacks. Just be sure to leave the valve open to allow any built-up moisture (from your breath) to escape. If your pad is insulated, store it flat or folded in half with the valve open—under a bed or behind a sofa works great. This is particularly important with pads that have open-cell foam inside (like standard Therm-a-Rest pads). By keeping the foam inflated, you’re preserving its integrity over the long haul. Open-cell foam has a memory: If its regular state of rest is in its expanded state, it will bounce back more easily when it comes time to inflate it in the field.
Splurge! When you’ve exhausted all efforts and it’s time to buy a new pad, consider these features, as well as the pros and cons of each to help you make the best purchase.
| TYPE | PROS | CONS |
| Self-inflating: Open-cell foam sandwiched between nylon | Puffs up (almost completely) by itself; foam adds insulation | Heavy; must be stored flat; sometimes requires field repairs; can be pricey |
| Air mat: Nylon-encased air chambers | Super light and packable; most cushion for the least weight and bulk | Patience and strong lungs needed to inflate; sometimes requires field repairs; not for cold-weather use |
| Insulated air mat: Nylon-encased air chambers with added down or synthetic insulation | Comfortable; warm; packable | Expensive |
| Closed-cell foam: Thin, dense sheet of basic foam | Cheapest, toughest, and lightest; never deflates | No inflation, so it provides the bare minimum of cushion |
Tips from the Field: Sleeping Pads
- Double up in winter: In deep cold, you need extra insulation underneath. Get a cheap closed-cell foam pad (it has great insulative properties) and layer it under your air mattress to prevent cold from seeping through.
- Ground check: Before unfurling your pad, do a quick check of the ground to make sure it’s smooth and free of anything that could cause a puncture.
- Pack it inside: Always store your air mattress inside your pack, where it’s protected from abrasion.
- Easy inflating: Some air mattresses will tax your lungs (especially when you’re at altitude). Consider investing in a little hand pump. You attach it to the valve and compress over and over to inflate your pad. Some pads come with integrated pumps.
- Deflating: Open the valve and start rolling from the opposite end, using your knees to compress the pad with each new roll. When you reach the end, close the valve and fold the pad in half lengthwise. Then reopen the valve and roll it toward the valve again, squeezing out the last remnants of air. Close the valve and store the pad in your pack.
REPURPOSE OLD CLOSED-CELL FOAM
Even if you’ve graduated from a closed-cell foam pad to a plusher one, there are lots of useful things you can do with your old pad.
- If you camp in winter, save it intact and use it underneath your air mat for added insulation.
- If you’re tired of your dog pushing you off your pad, cut out a pooch-size portion and give him his own bed.
- Cut a small, butt-size square to use as a sit pad. I’ve used mine hundreds of times—during lunch breaks on ski trips or high in the mountains, at football games, or sitting around camp at night. Or cut it to fit the inside of your pack bag; you can pull it out to use as a butt pad, and it will give you additional protection and cushion when wearing the pack (great for ultralight frameless packs).
- Turn your regular water bottle into a thermos for tea or soup—sweet for winter trips.
- Cut a small square and cover it in duct tape. Use it as a lightweight cutting board or a stove platform on winter trips—it will prevent your stove from sinking into the snow.
Perfect for preparing your feast!
Custom-cut and tape the old foam around your favorite bottle. Add a circular top and bottom piece, using duct tape, and make a hinge for the top circle.
