CHAPTER ELEVEN

Hydration

Few things are more important to outdoorspeople than staying hydrated. And, alas, gone are the days when we can cavalierly cup our hands into a running river and slurp away. It might be flowing with microcooties that will set up shop in your intestines and wreak havoc on your digestive system. Why take that risk?

This chapter will solve all your drinking problems: Not only will it teach you how to keep your filter running smoothly (as you’ll see from the chart below on water treatment options, filters are really the only ones that require maintenance), you’ll also learn how to take care of your water bottles and hydration systems, so they don’t turn into smelly, funky breeding grounds.

To render backcountry water safe, you’ve got several options, each with pros and cons.

TYPE	PROS	CONS
Boiling	Foolproof; kills everything	Time- and fuel-consuming
Chemicals	Ultralight	Needs three to four hours to be effective; some chemicals (iodine) don’t kill cryptosporidium; leaves aftertaste
Pump filters	Fast; good for silty water	Heavy; needs regular cleaning and maintenance
Gravity filters	Ideal for large groups, silty water	Slow; for in-camp use only
UV treatment	Fast; light; kills everything	Requires batteries; works only in relatively clear water

Filters

Of all the water treatment methods, filters are certainly the fussiest to deal with, but once you learn the proper techniques, they make a lot of sense.

CLEANING GLASS FIBER

Some filters use pleated glass fiber filter cartridges. The vast surface area inside all those pleats traps both silt (making the water pleasant to drink) and bugs (so you don’t get sick). Glass fiber cartridge life varies from brand to brand, but you can extend the life of your cartridge by keeping it clean. When you start to notice that the filter becomes difficult to pump, simply remove the cartridge from the housing and swish it around in a body of water. This loosens the surface debris trapped in the pleats and restores the flow rate.

CLEANING CERAMIC

Some filters use ceramic cartridges. They’re heavier, but they last considerably longer than glass fiber ones, and they’re also easy to clean. Simply remove the cartridge and give it a good scrub with one of those coarse green kitchen pads (the same ones you use to clean your lasagna pans).

Scrubbing ceramic filters restores the flow rate.

Every so often it’s a good idea to fully sterilize your ceramic cartridge, beyond the normal cleaning described above. Read your instruction manual for specific recommendations. Some companies recommend a boiling technique: Remove any O-rings, plop the cartridge into a pot of water, and bring it to a boil. Let it roll for five minutes, then remove the filter and let it dry very thoroughly (three to five days). Other companies recommend pumping a chlorine bleach solution (one capful of bleach per liter of water) through the filter.

BACKFLUSHING

Some filters can be backflushed (check your owner’s manual). Essentially, this is running water back through the filter element (opposite from its usual direction) to loosen any sediment. If your filter is backflushable, you’ll want to do this anytime the flow rate drops. It’s easily done in the field. Just make sure to have your owner’s manual with you (or memorized) so you know the drill, which varies from model to model.

LUBRICATING O-RINGS

All filters rely on rubber O-rings to provide tight seals in the piston. Over time O-rings can become gritty, dried out, or cracked. Periodically inspect your O-rings to make sure they’re in tiptop shape. Remove them and wipe them free of any dirt. Then rub them with silicone grease or lip balm (saliva even works if you’re in a pinch in the field), and reinstall.

FIXING DAMAGED HOSES

Intake and output hoses sometimes sustain injury. If you find a puncture or crack in the hose (you’ll know because water will leak out), a few turns of duct tape will solve the problem. If the hose happens to split near the end, simply snip off the damaged part with some scissors and you’re back in business.

STORING

Before any long-term storage, take the time to sterilize your filter (all types) by flushing it with a bleach solution. Just mix one capful of bleach with one liter of clean water and pump it through the filter. Then disassemble the filter and let it air-dry thoroughly on a towel for three to five days before storing.

Tips from The Field: Filters

DUCT TAPE DISPENSER

Wrap your water bottle with a few feet of duct tape, so you’ll always have some handy.

The perfect duct tape holder.

• Keep it warm: Extremely cold temps can damage the filter element when residual water freezes inside. When you’re expecting cold nights, pack your filter in a zip-top bag (to prevent leaking) and store it in the foot of your sleeping bag.
• Don’t drop it: A good hard rap on a sharp rock can crack the filter element (especially ceramic), so try to avoid any major fumbles.
• Start with clean water: Seek out calm, clear pools rather than roiling streams (where sediment gets stirred up). Don’t let the intake hose rest on the bottom of a lake or river. Most filters have an adjustable float on the end of the hose that lets you determine the position of the intake.
• Let it settle: If your water source is particularly turbid, you can save your filter some wear and tear by letting it settle. Just scoop up a potful of water and set it aside—even fifteen minutes helps a lot, but wait up to an hour if you’re in camp. Then adjust the float so the intake is away from the sediment that has fallen to the bottom, and pump.
• Don’t overuse it: Remember, all filters have a finite life. There’s no need to tax yours by filtering the water that you plan on boiling for your spaghetti dinner.
• Use a prefilter: Most filters come with prefilters on the end of the intake hose. If yours doesn’t, or if it mysteriously disappeared in the drink, you can build a makeshift one (see photos) by wrapping a coffee filter or piece of bandanna around the intake hose and securing with a rubber band.

I used a mini paper coffee filter here to jury-rig a pre-filter, but you can cut a section from a standard-size filter or even cut a small piece of fabric from a bandanna or cotton T-shirt.

Just cover the end of the intake hose and secure the material with a rubber band. Then pump away.

UV Water Treatment

I’ve tried most every water-treatment method and device on the market, and for most trips and most conditions, UV treatments (like those made by Steripen) are great. Why? They’re super light, they’re much faster than chemical treatments (ninety seconds for a liter, compared to thirty minutes to four hours), they don’t change the taste of delicious alpine water, and they eliminate all microorganisms (bacteria, protozoa, and viruses), making them a great choice for North American wilderness and developing countries alike.

But there are a few key things to know about keeping a UV pen working properly:

• If your backcountry water is turbid, silty, or otherwise thick with debris, the UV light has trouble penetrating the water. In these cases you have to either prefilter the water (pour it through a bandanna, T-shirt, or coffee filter) or let it settle in a container before pouring off the cleared water and then treating it.
• In cold weather store the device close to your body so the batteries don’t get sluggish.

UV light is a fast, easy way to zap your water clean.

• Remember to pack a wide-mouth water bottle because you need to be able to submerge the pen deeply enough so that both sensors are underwater. Otherwise, you’ll get a red light/error message. (Note: UV pens only treat small quantities [one to two liters] at a time, so if you need a treatment method for a large group, this may not be it.)
• Handle with care. If you fumble it without the protective lid in place or otherwise pack it carelessly, the glass wand will shatter and you’re screwed.
• Pack spare batteries.
• Pack some chemical tablets as a backup.

Hydration Systems

In the world of backpacking, water bottles are like fax machines and hydration systems are like e-mail. Once you start using e-mail, faxing seems inefficient and laborious. It took me a while to jump on the hydration system wagon, but now I’m a firm believer, mainly because with a tube resting handily on my pack’s shoulder strap, I drink more regularly, and I can sip in the middle of a huge climb without having to stop and fish out my bottle.

Using a hydration system forces you to drink more, which is always a good thing.

LEAKY BLADDER

Should your bladder bust a seam or get punctured by something sharp, you can seal it back up permanently using Seam Grip. Just make sure the bladder is completely clean and dry, then apply the adhesive (if it’s a seam you’re fixing, be sure to weight it down with something flat and heavy), and let it cure for twenty-four hours.

CLEANING YOUR SYSTEM

A bleach solution can quickly evict mildew and gunk from bladders, hoses, and bite valves. Fill your system with a half teaspoon of bleach and warm water, then shake. If the smell is particularly bad, let it soak overnight. Then squeeze the bite valve (while holding the bladder high) to flush the hose. If you have a long-handled skinny brush (like a gun-barrel cleaner), give the whole thing a good scrubbing. Then remove the bleach taste with a baking soda rinse (one teaspoon of baking soda per liter of water) and flush once more with water.

DRYING YOUR SYSTEM

Complete drying of your system’s innards is key to preventing that stink from coming back. Convert a plastic coat hanger into the perfect drying rack: Saw off one arm and wrap the rough edges in duct tape. Then stuff a few paper towels inside the reservoir to keep it propped open and hang it to dry.

A homemade contraption like this is great for drying out a hydration bladder. The key is keeping the mouth open so air can circulate.

Tips from the Field: Hydration Systems

Note how the hose is looped through a tab on this mom’s shoulder strap (upper right). This keeps it from flopping into the dirt when she takes off the pack, which is particularly key when your bite valve doubles as a teething toy.

• In below-freezing weather, hydration systems tend to freeze up either in the hose or in the bite valve, but there are several preventative tips: Start the day with warm water, buy an insulation kit (it includes a neoprene tube sleeve and bite-valve protector), and remember to push the water back into the reservoir after each sip. You can do this by either blowing into the bite valve until you feel the water exit the hose or holding the bite valve above your head and pinching it open so that gravity forces the water back through the tube.
• When loading your reservoir, place the end with the hose attachment toward the bottom of the pack so gravity lends a hand as you get toward the bottom of your supply.
• Make sure to rig an attachment for your bite valve onto your pack’s shoulder strap. This way your bite valve doesn’t end up in the dirt every time you take off your pack. If your pack doesn’t come equipped with a usable loop, rig one using a carabiner, some duct tape, or a loop of cord or webbing.
• Reservoirs close via several different mechanisms: Some are screw-tops, some are zip-tops, and some are fold-over, dry-bag-style tops. No matter what way yours seals, always check it—and then check it again—before loading a full bladder into your pack. Once the system is pressurized between your back and all your other gear, a sloppy seal could spell a disastrous leak—all over your sleeping bag.

Hydration systems are great, but we all still need water bottles, for situations like this!

De-Funking Your Water Bottles

Especially if you use your bottles for energy drinks, whiskey, or wine, they can get stinky and stained. Here are a few tips to restore them to their former glory.

• Remove musty smells and tastes with this solution: the juice of one lemon, a few tablespoons of white vinegar, and a few tablespoons of baking soda. Let the solution soak overnight, then run your bottle through the dishwasher.
• For really pesky smells try wrapping a charcoal briquette in newspaper. Insert it into your bottle, screw on the cap, and let it sit for a few days. The charcoal should absorb any remaining odor.
• Most bottles are dishwasher safe. Just be sure to place them far away from the heating element, which can melt the plastic parts.
• To remove wine stains, fill the bottle with a cup of liquid bleach and water, and let it sit overnight.
• Always store bottles (and bladders) with tops off to promote airflow.
• For extra mildew protection, store your bottles or bladders in the freezer, where nothing can grow.

Kids of all ages—including my son Joey, pictured here—love hydration systems, and moms do too, because it encourages frequent slurping to keep them well hydrated.