CHAPTER TWELVE

Trekking Poles

More and more hikers are toting trekking poles, and with good reason: They absorb shock with each step, improve your balance, and help you safely cross streams and snowfields. Plus, they come in handy around camp for tarp pitching and bear-bag hanging. A good pair of trekking poles is a fairly big investment these days, but the good news is that they’re almost entirely fixable, with affordable replacement parts. This chapter will explain all the fix-it techniques for the two main types of today’s collapsible trekking poles: twist-lock and snap-lock.

Collapsing Sections

Have you ever planted your pole only to stumble or fall when it collapses? Man, I hate when that happens! The cause? The sections slip due to wear, tear, dirt, and grit inside the pole sections, all of which can be minimized and solved with some easy tricks.

TWIST-LOCK POLES

Understanding how this type of pole works will help you avoid problems, which often result from frantic twisting that gets you nowhere. Inside the end of each section is a screw that feeds into an expander plug. Twist the shaft, and it forces that expander open so that it locks firmly against the inside of the pole shaft. Frantic twisting can cause overloosening, and it might seem like the pole is shot. Chances are it’s not: Just pull the bottom pole section out so that just the end of the expander is revealed, and carefully rescrew it back in place.

With this type of pole, problems generally arise from one of two things: Either the inside of the shaft is dirty (see “Care and Maintenance”) or the expander is lacking in friction or otherwise worn down.

This expander plug widens as you twist the pole sections, creating a friction lock against the inside of the other pole section.

Pull the pole section apart and inspect the expander. If you can see that it’s worn down around the edges, a replacement will do the trick. Order a pair from the manufacturer (a lot less money than new poles) and snap it into place. Or try creating a little extra friction: Lightly sand the circumference of the expander, creating horizontal striations. Wipe it clean and reinstall to see if that did the trick.

Try lightly sanding a slipping expander plug to boost friction.

SNAP-LOCK POLES

I’m a big fan of this type of pole because the mechanism is on the outside, so there’s nothing mysterious. Snap-lock poles feature a plastic clamp that tensions around the pole section with a simple screw adjustment. Over time that screw can loosen, so just be sure to have a multitool in your pocket. A quick half turn usually does the trick!

Keep this screw snug, but not overly tight, or the clamp won’t snap.

REAL PEOPLE, REAL PROBLEMS: BENT TREKKING POLES

Mike Browning, of Franklin Park, New Jersey, was in the middle of a 20-mile weekend loop hike in the Catskills when the tip of one of his two-year-old REI Shocklite poles became lodged between two boulders. “I couldn’t get my hands free in time, so I fell over and my pole paid the price. The bottom section was good and bent and the pole would no longer collapse completely.”

Mike Browning crosses Sugarloaf Creek in Kings Canyon National Park in California.

The Fix: Lucky for Mike, his pole was bent in a nice, clean arc, so the prognosis was good. (If it bends abruptly or if the aluminum kinks even a tiny bit, that pole section is toast.) The key is to gently, ever-so-gently, try to reshape the pole. I tried a bunch of different techniques. What worked best was a combination of lightly tapping the bend with a large rock and prying it back between two rocks. I succeeded in getting the pole almost completely straight again—certainly straight enough to hike with. The bottom section is about 4 inches shy of being able to collapse completely, but it’s totally serviceable and I didn’t want to risk breaking it by working on it anymore.

First, try using a big rock to gently tap-tap-tap the bulging section.

Next, try jamming the end of the bent section between two rocks or in the crook of a tree and gently pull back to straighten.

Replacement Parts

POLE SECTIONS

If you bend a section beyond repair (if it’s kinked or if your attempts at rebending it don’t work), don’t ditch the whole pole: Order a replacement section from the manufacturer. It will take all of two minutes to replace and won’t cost a lot.

TIPS

Hiking pole tips are generally made of carbide, a super-tough compound of carbon and heavy metals designed to stand up to constant scraping on rocks. Eventually, though, carbide wears down. Pole tips have a convex shape—the edges around the circle help provide grip to keep the poles from skidding out from under you. When the edges wear down and the tip becomes concave, it’s time for replacement (around $20 per pair).

Customize your pole basket to the task at hand. Clockwise from top: a standard snow basket, a trekking basket, and a deep-powder basket.

Some tips are a simple pressure fit: Just pull it off with pliers and insert the new one. Others use adhesive and require you to heat up the joint (in boiling water) so you can pull it free. Then just apply hot-melt craft glue to the new tip and reinstall.

BASKETS

The nice thing about splurging for a good pair of collapsible poles is that you can use them all year round—for skiing and snowshoeing as well as hiking. Many poles come with a couple sets of baskets, but sometimes you have to buy them separately. They generally come in three varieties (see photo).

Care and Maintenance

Especially with twist-lock poles, where the mechanism is hidden inside the shaft, it’s really, really important to keep them dry, clean, and free of gunk. Don’t be afraid to pull your poles apart and clean them, especially after trips. Never use soap or water to clean your poles, and never use any sort of lubricant. Instead, try the methods shown in the following photos.

Use a dry toothbrush to clean the threads and the expander plug.

Clean the interior of the female pole ends with a coarse gun-barrel brush, a toothbrush, or a dry rag attached to a coat-hanger wire. Tape a plug of sandpaper to a dowel or coat hanger, and twist it horizontally to create striations that will improve friction.

Also, if you use your poles in hot weather, periodically wash the grips and straps with soap and water, so they don’t attract critters like an all-you-can-eat buffet.

This little pika found itself a tasty snack in this strap’s sweat deposits. Keep your straps salt-free by scrubbing them down with soap and water once a year or so.

Push-Button Staffs

Single hiking staffs often have a simple push-button mechanism. Keep them in good working order using the same methods you would use for twist-lock poles. One notable difference: Because there are no expander plugs inside, you can use a lubricant (like WD-40) if the buttons get sticky. Also, check the shaft regularly for cracks that can appear around the adjustment holes. If you find one, contact the manufacturer for a replacement section immediately.

Many single hiking staffs adjust via a simple push-button system.

Make a Low-Impact Pole Tip

Most times you want that reassuring bite that a carbide tip provides. But sometimes, like on my recent hike in Utah’s Capitol Reef National Park, pole tips can scar the gorgeous red rock, and it can tear up the delicate cryptobiotic soil. In situations like these it’s good hiking etiquette to put rubber feet on your poles. Some companies sell these accessories, but you can easily make your own, using duct tape and a pair of rubber cane tips (at any drug store).

Step 1: Put the cane tip over the pole tip to judge how far up you need to wrap the duct tape. Mark it.

Step 2: Split the tape and wrap it around the pole until you can get a solid pressure fit with the cane tip.

Step 3: Shove the cane tip firmly over the duct tape, as far up as it will go.

Step 4: Secure the tip with another wrap of tape, and twist it against the pole tip for maximum adhesion.

Step 5: Add a final wrap of tape around the pole tip.

Adjust your hiking pole length on the fly to suit the terrain.

Tips from the Field: Using Adjustable Trekking Poles

• For flat or rolling terrain: Adjust the poles so that your elbow is at a 45-degree angle to the ground. This allows for a natural stride, arm swing, and decent propulsion.
• For steep uphills: Shorten the poles—the more dramatic the incline, the shorter they should be. This allows for a natural arm position as you climb, so you’re not overreaching or overextending your arms and shoulders. Not only will you save energy, your pole plants will be more secure.
• For steep descents: Extend the poles to chest height, which allows you to reach down for secure pole placements while maintaining a balanced position.
• For sustained traverses: Shorten the uphill pole and lengthen the downhill pole. Again, this ensures that you’re not wasting precious energy by overextending, and it gives you the most stability for the slanty ground.

Splurge! Consider these factors when shopping for new trekking poles.

PICK THIS …	OR THAT
Aluminum: Durable and affordable	Carbon fiber: Ultralight but pricier
Plastic grips: Rugged and inexpensive but get slippery with sweat	Rubber or cork grips: More comfortable and secure but more expensive
Two sections: Less expensive and have one less potential failure point	Three sections: Pack down much smaller but usually cost more
Shock absorbers: Reduce impact and add comfort but increase price	Nonshock: Less expensive and slightly lighter