Roasted Salmon with Tangerine Relish

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SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For oven-roasted salmon with a nicely browned exterior and a silky, moist interior, we preheated the oven to 500 degrees with a baking sheet set on the lowest rack, then turned down the heat to 275 just before placing the fish on the hot sheet. The initial blast of heat firmed the exterior, while the slowly dropping temperature cooked the fish gently and kept it moist. Keeping the skin on the salmon prevented it from falling apart and losing moisture as it cooked, but we found it essential to score the skin to allow the fat to render. An easy tangerine relish contributed brightness. Use center-cut salmon fillets of similar thickness so that they cook at the same rate. The best way to ensure uniformity is to buy a 1½-pound whole center-cut fillet and cut it into 4 pieces. See the Test Kitchen Tip that follows the recipe.

4	tangerines
1	scallion
1	lemon
	Fresh ginger
4	teaspoons olive oil
4	(6-ounce) center-cut skin-on salmon fillets

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees.

2. Cut away peel and pith from tangerines, quarter, then slice each quarter crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Drain tangerines through strainer set over bowl for 15 minutes; reserve 2 tablespoons juice. Thinly slice scallion, squeeze lemon for 2 teaspoons juice, and grate 1½ teaspoons ginger; whisk together with reserved tangerine juice and 2 teaspoons oil in bowl. Add tangerines and season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Pat salmon dry with paper towels and cut several shallow slashes, about 1 inch apart, on diagonal through skin. Rub fish evenly with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees and remove baking sheet. Carefully lay salmon, skin side down, on hot baking sheet. Roast until center is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 9 to 13 minutes. Serve with tangerine relish.