Cheesy Shrimp and Grits

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SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most versions of this Southern classic offer intense richness but are light on flavor. We wanted the best of both worlds, and started out building a potent flavor base by adding scallions, garlic, and hot sauce to our grits. We were on the right track, but realized we could swap two ingredients for one—the garlic and hot sauce for Asian chili-garlic sauce—to achieve the same bright, spicy flavor. Instead of the usual heavy cream, we opted for whole milk, which gave our grits a rich creaminess without making them too heavy. When it came to the cheese, cheddar won out for the tangy, savory notes it added to the grits; we also sprinkled more cheese on top. As for the shrimp, we simply assembled the grits in a casserole dish and nestled in the shellfish so it could cook through while the cheesy topping browned, eliminating the need for another dish (or an extra step to sauté the shrimp). Do not substitute instant grits here. See the Test Kitchen Tip that follows the recipe.

3	scallions
2	teaspoons Asian chili-garlic sauce
½	cup whole milk
1	cup old-fashioned grits
1	pound extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound)
1	cup (4 ounces) shredded cheddar cheese

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Thinly slice scallion whites and scallion greens; keep whites and greens separate. Cook scallion whites and 2 tablespoons water together in medium saucepan over medium heat until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in chili-garlic sauce, 4 cups water, and milk; bring to boil. Slowly whisk in grits. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring often, until grits are thick and creamy, about 15 minutes.

2. Peel and devein shrimp. Off heat, stir ½ cup cheddar into grits, season with salt and pepper to taste, and transfer to 4½-cup gratin dish. Nestle shrimp into grits, leaving tails exposed. Sprinkle with remaining ½ cup cheddar. Bake until shrimp are cooked through, about 15 minutes. Let cool slightly, sprinkle with scallion greens, and serve.