Steamed fresh vegetables, a handful of pasta, a drizzle of fragrant olive oil, and a sprinkling of fresh herbs is all you need for a quick, delicious meal any night of the week, any time of the year. Spring, summer, and fall are my favorite seasons for making a meal of vegetables and pasta because that’s when the vegetables are at their peak. However, there are quick-cooking methods even for winter vegetables, resulting in hearty dishes for the coldest nights.
When I pass a produce store and the vegetables look particularly appealing, I’ll buy some, often without a specific recipe in mind. When I get home, I plan menus so that the most perishable vegetables are eaten within the first couple of days, leaving the longer-lasting ones for the end of the week. And because I make it a habit never to be without my pantry staples—onions, carrots, and bell peppers—there are always dinner possibilities in the vegetable crisper; even on the most harried evenings.
In this chapter, I give a range of recipes for the most commonly used fresh vegetables—with enough variations and suggestions so that you can devise a pasta recipe for almost any vegetable you can get your hands on.
PASTA: Thin ribbons or strands
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 25 minutes
............................
I grate the beets for this light and delicious springtime dish, so they cook in record time. They aren’t as sweet this way as when they are baked or boiled—you may want to add a jot of sugar.
If you like, follow this with a meat dish—perhaps veal scallopine or broiled lamb chops.
Salt
1 pound fedelini, linguine fine, vermicelli, or fine egg noodles
6 medium-size beets, green tops removed
½ cup fresh dill, or 2 tablespoons dried dill weed
2 small bunches fresh chives, or 4 scallions (green onions)
½ cup shelled walnuts
3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons chicken broth
Freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon sugar (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 8 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, peel the beets and grate them in a food processor. Rinse, pat dry, and mince the dill and the chives or finely slice the scallions (you should have ½ cup) and chop the walnuts. In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the butter, lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of the chicken broth, and the minced dill; set it aside.
3. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the grated beets and sauté just to heat them through, about 1 minute. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons chicken broth, cover the skillet, and simmer until the beets are almost tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the walnuts and chives, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Taste the beets; if they are not sweet enough, stir in the sugar. Remove the skillet from the heat and keep warm, covered, off the heat.
4. Drain the pasta and toss it in the bowl with the dill mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Using tongs, arrange a wreath of pasta around the outside edge of individual shallow bowls. Spoon the beets and walnuts in the middle, and serve immediately.
• Other vegetables: This is also delicious when made with grated carrots, celery root, or parsnips.
Baked Beets with Fedelini: If you have baked whole beets on hand, use them instead of the fresh beets. Peel the baked beets, cut them into ½-inch dice, and proceed with the recipe.
Canned Beets with Fedelini: If you substitute canned beets, you don’t even have to cook them. Dice the beets, and in step 2, combine them with all of the butter, lemon juice, chicken broth, dill, chives, and walnuts in the mixing bowl. Toss this with the cooked pasta—the heat of the noodles will melt the butter and warm the other ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR DIETERS
Omit the walnuts and butter. In step 2, combine the lemon juice and dill with chicken broth. And in step 3, cook the beets in 4 tablespoons chicken broth in a nonstick skillet.
PASTA: Rice or mung bean noodles, thin strands or ribbons
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 30 minutes
............................
If you have trouble finding any of the slightly exotic ingredients, take a look at the variations that follow to create your own version of broccoli and pasta. If you decide to give the broccoli a Western-style presentation, serve it with linguine instead of glass noodles.
Serve a dessert containing pineapple or another tropical fruit.
¼ pound rice noodles (rice sticks) or vermicelli
1 small head broccoli
3 small cloves garlic
½ cup unsalted roasted peanuts (optional)
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
¼ cup lime juice
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup chicken broth
⅓ cup vegetable oil
Salt
1. Bring the water to a boil. Place the rice noodles in a large mixing bowl, pour the hot water over them, and let them soften, about 15 minutes. (If using vermicelli, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 6 minutes.)
2. Meanwhile, trim the broccoli, removing about 4 inches of stem. Slice the remaining stems into ⅛-inch-thick rounds, and finely chop the florets (you need about 6 cups). Peel and mince the garlic. Finely chop the peanuts if you will be using them. Rinse, pat dry, and mince the cilantro. In a bowl or measuring cup, combine the ketchup, oyster sauce, lime juice, red pepper flakes, sugar, and chicken broth.
3. When the noodles are soft, drain them and cut them with kitchen scissors into 2-inch lengths.
4. Heat the oil in a large skillet (or wok) over high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until you get a whiff of its aroma, about 10 seconds. Add the broccoli and stir-fry until it turns bright green, about 1 minute. Add the ketchup mixture, and stir with a wooden spoon until well blended.
5. Add the cut rice noodles. Stir, tossing the noodles and broccoli together (use two forks, chopsticks, or two spoons, if needed) until the ingredients are combined and the noodles have taken on an even reddish color. Cover and simmer until the broccoli is barely tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and serve immediately. Sprinkle some of the cilantro and peanuts over each portion.
Thai-Style Broccoli and Beef: Use only half the amount of broccoli. Cut ½ pound of sirloin beef into strips (“stroganoff pieces”). In step 4, stir-fry the beef for about 1 minute before you add the garlic; then proceed with the recipe.
Italian-Style Broccoli with Fedelini: Cook ¾ pound fedelini instead of the rice noodles. Drain a small can (2 ounces) anchovies, mince them, and add with the broccoli in step 4. Omit the peanuts, and substitute parsley for the cilantro. Substitute olive oil for the vegetable oil, and ¼ cup white wine for the oyster sauce, lime juice, and sugar. Serve the sauced broccoli over the fedelini.
French-Style Broccoli with Linguine: Cook ¾ pound linguine instead of the rice noodles. Substitute olive oil for the vegetable oil, parsley for the cilantro, and ¼ cup white wine plus 1 teaspoon dried thyme for the chicken broth. Omit the peanuts, ketchup, oyster sauce, lime juice, dried red pepper flakes, and sugar.
Mediterranean-Style Broccoli with Spaghetti: Cook ¾ pound spaghetti instead of the rice noodles. Omit the peanuts, and substitute fresh mint or parsley for the cilantro. Omit the ketchup, oyster sauce, and lime juice. Substitute ¼ cup lemon juice for the lime juice, and add ¼ teaspoon each of ground cumin and cinnamon to the chicken broth. Serve the broccoli and spaghetti topped with plain yogurt, if you wish.
SECOND TlME AROUND
This is fantastic served chilled the next day. Although the lime juice will turn the broccoli dark, the flavor won’t be compromised.
PASTA: Fancy or plain strands
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 30 minutes
............................
This is a lovely vegetarian dish of shredded carrots seasoned with cardamom, ginger, and garlic and creamed with yogurt. Try it over lentils, rice, or baked potatoes as well as pasta.
A salad of tropical fruits would be in keeping with the character of this recipe.
Salt
¾ pound spaghetti twists (gemelli) or spaghettini
3 small cloves garlic
3 quarter-size slices of fresh ginger
1 pound carrots
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ cup chicken broth
½ cup plain nonfat yogurt
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, peel and mince the garlic and ginger. Peel the carrots, and grate them in a food processor.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger, and stir-fry just until you get a whiff of the garlic aroma, about 10 seconds. Then add the carrots, cardamom, cumin, and chicken broth. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook gently over low heat until the carrots are just tender, about 4 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the yogurt. Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm, off the heat, until the pasta is done.
4. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot, off the heat. Mix in the carrots and sauce, and serve immediately.
• The seasoning for the carrots is also good with boiled or steamed green beans, cauliflower, or parsnips (you’ll need 4 cups, chopped).
• I like this also served chilled and tossed with a yogurt salad dressing.
PASTA: Medium-size or small tubes or medium-size fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 25 to 30 minutes
............................
When you’ve read over this recipe and its many variations, you’ll know how to make a meal out of pasta and steamed vegetables. It is a terrific dinnertime solution for all seasons and all types of vegetables. The flavors are simple and straightforward, yet with a well-stocked pantry you can create more complex dishes too.
Here I have broken my own Monday-to-Friday rule of never using more than two pots to make dinner. I steam the cauliflower before reheating it in the olive oil because I don’t want the cauliflower to have that “fried” taste.
I prefer steaming vegetables to boiling them because the method is quicker and the vegetables do not become waterlogged. (If you do not own a steamer, however, then go ahead and boil the vegetables. But remember that boiling will take longer than steaming.)
1 head cauliflower
3 cups pipe rigate (elbow twists), elbow macaroni, radiatore, rotelle (wagon wheels), or fusilli
1 clove garlic
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
2. While the water is heating, cut the cauliflower into florets (you should have 5 to 6 cups). In a large saucepan, bring 2 inches of water to a boil. Place a vegetable steamer in the pot, add the cauliflower to the steamer, cover, and steam until barely cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. While the pasta is cooking, peel and mince the garlic. Cut the steamed cauliflower into small pieces.
5. About 5 minutes before the pasta will be done, heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes, and stir-fry until the garlic and pepper are evenly dispersed in the oil, about 10 seconds. Add the cauliflower and cook, stirring frequently, until it is well coated with the oil. Cover, and simmer over low heat until the cauliflower is heated through, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt. Keep warm in the skillet, covered, off the heat.
6. Drain the pasta and return it to the cooking pot, off the heat. Toss it with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the cauliflower, and toss all the ingredients together until well blended. Season to taste with salt. Serve immediately, and pass the Parmesan on the side.
Seasoning Additions:
• In step 5, right after the garlic and red pepper flakes, add 1 tablespoon prepared mustard or 1 to 2 tablespoons anchovy paste or tomato paste. Or omit the garlic and add pesto, olive paste, or sun-dried tomato tapenade (which already contain garlic).
If you don’t have these seasonings in paste form, add 2 tablespoons minced sun-dried tomatoes, ¼ cup minced pitted imported black olives, or a 2-ounce can of anchovies, drained and minced.
• In step 5, add 2 tablespoons minced capers when you add the garlic. (You can add the capers in addition to the seasonings listed above.)
• In step 6, toss the pasta with ¼ cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.
• In step 6, toss the pasta with ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ cup minced fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, or mint.
Vegetable and Seasoning Combinations:
• Asparagus and artichoke hearts: Season additionally with black olive paste or fresh basil.
• Broccoli and cauliflower: Season additionally with anchovy paste, capers, or fresh parsley or basil.
• Brussels sprouts, green beans, and petite peas: Season additionally with tomato paste or fresh mint.
• Lima beans, corn kernels, and carrots: Season additionally with sun-dried tomatoes and fresh parsley.
Other Cheeses:
• Pecorino Romano, ½ cup grated; good with green beans and carrots
• Dry chèvre or feta cheese, ½ cup crumbled, good with asparagus, artichokes, and peas
• Sharp Cheddar, ¾ cup grated; good with corn and lima beans
• Ricotta, ½ to ¾ cup; good with carrots and Brussels sprouts
• Blue cheese, ½ cup crumbled; good with cauliflower and broccoli
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR CHILDREN
If your kids like vegetables with pasta, they’ll love the Spicy Hot Cauliflower recipe if you omit the dried red pepper flakes.
PASTA: Stuffed pasta
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
............................
This recipe, full of heady aromas and spicy flavors, will delight lovers of Indian food. I often serve a meat-filled ravioli, so I include a vegetable in the sauce for a dinner-in-one-dish. However, you could make the sauce without the cauliflower and serve a vegetable course either after or alongside the pasta.
This sauce is also useful for reheating leftover poultry or meat and then serving over plain linguine or macaroni.
1 head cauliflower
1 medium-size onion
4 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon curry powder or ground turmeric
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 can (14 ounces) crushed red tomatoes
1 pound ravioli stuffed with meat or vegetables
Freshly ground black pepper
Plain yogurt (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, cut the cauliflower into small pieces. Peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and mince the garlic. Measure the spices and mix them together in a small bowl; set it aside.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onions and garlic, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the spices, tomatoes, and cauliflower. Mix well, cover, and simmer over medium heat until the cauliflower is just tender, about 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook until they are tender, 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon the size and freshness of the ravioli.
5. Drain the ravioli and return them to the pot, off the heat. Mix in the cauliflower sauce, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, topping each portion with a small spoonful of yogurt if you wish.
You can vary this recipe endlessly by changing the vegetables. Select ones that go well with these particular spices, such as green beans, okra, or carrots. (When making the substitution, figure that you’ll need about 3 cups of diced fresh vegetables.)
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR CHILDREN
This recipe is just terrific for families with picky eaters. After the ravioli are cooked, separate out the children’s portions; toss them with olive oil and sprinkle with Parmesan. Serve the sophisticated vegetable sauce with the adult’s servings.
PASTA: Medium-size tubes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
............................
As illustrated by this quick recipe for eggplant with pasta, a well-stocked pantry makes a huge difference in cooking dinner. I prefer to offer this as a main course with steamed broccoli or a quick sauté of carrots and mushrooms, but it would also work well as a side dish (by itself or mixed with the pasta) with full-flavored meats and poultry, such as lamb, pork, or turkey.
2 medium-size eggplants (2 pounds total) Salt
4 cloves garlic
¼ cup hoisin sauce
¼ cup water
¼ cup lemon juice
1 pound penne
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
1. Cut the eggplants in half, then into ½-inch dice. Toss them in a colander with 2 teaspoons salt, and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, peel and mince the garlic. Combine the hoisin sauce, water, and lemon juice in a small mixing bowl, and set aside.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat the sesame and vegetable oils in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and immediately start to add the eggplant, taking it by the handful and squeezing out as much water as possible, then stirring it into the oil and garlic. (This will require about four batches.)
5. When all the eggplant has been added, stir in the hoisin mixture. Cover, and simmer over medium heat until the eggplant is soft and tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with the dried red pepper flakes and salt to taste.
6. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot, off the heat. Add the braised eggplant and toss it with the pasta until thoroughly combined. Check the seasonings, adding more salt and red pepper flakes if necessary.
• Instead of the eggplant substitute 1½ pounds mushrooms (caps only, sliced), 1 pound diced French haricots verts, or 1 pound sliced carrots.
Eggplant and Shrimp with Penne: In step 5, after you add the hoisin mixture, stir in ½ pound chopped, peeled, deveined shrimp.
To recycle this recipe, just add lemon juice and a sprinkling of chopped fresh cilantro or mint leaves, and serve chilled or at room temperature.
PASTA: Small or medium-size fancy shapes or tubes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
............................
Eggplants come in all sizes and shapes. In my neighborhood in early summer, I can find my favorites, a non-bitter variety, small and roundish, about 5 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. Although harder to find, there are also the skinny long “Chinese” eggplants. And finally there is the common eggplant, usually large and weighing a pound at least. Stay away from the truly gigantic ones—their flavor can be a bit acrid.
Eggplant is flavorful and aromatic enough so that you don’t need a lot of other ingredients to make it taste good. That, of course, means less work for you!
Although I serve this pasta dish alone, as a one-dish meal, I could see serving an additional course such as a watercress, romaine, and cucumber salad in summer, or a light seafood soup in fall and winter.
This way of preparing eggplant is also a terrific Monday-to-Friday way of making a vegetable side dish, without the pasta, to serve with meat or poultry.
1 medium or 6 small eggplants (1¼ pounds total)
Salt
2 cloves garlic
1 can (14½ ounces) “pasta-style chunky” or “Italian-style” stewed tomatoes, drained
¾ pound (3 cups) medium-size shells, elbow macaroni, or penne
¼ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes, or more to taste
⅓ to ½ cup (loosely packed) grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese
¼ cup part-skim ricotta cheese (optional)
1. Cut the eggplants in half, then into ½-inch dice. Toss them in a colander with 1 teaspoon salt, and set aside.
2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
3. While the water is heating, peel and mince the garlic, and chop the tomatoes.
4. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the eggplant, taking it by the handful and squeezing out as much moisture as possible, then stirring it into the oil. (This will require about four batches.) When all the eggplant has been added, stir in the garlic and sauté until you can smell its aroma, about 15 seconds. Add the tomatoes, cover, and simmer over low heat until the eggplant is just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Season to taste with red pepper flakes and salt.
6. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot, off the heat. Add the tomato-eggplant sauce along with the grated cheese, and toss until thoroughly combined. Season with more salt and red pepper flakes if necessary. Serve immediately, topping each portion with a small spoonful of ricotta cheese if you like.
Middle Eastern Eggplant with Shells: Omit the Parmesan cheese. Instead, core, seed, and finely dice 1 green or red bell pepper. In step 5, after you have added the eggplant and garlic, add the diced pepper, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, and ¼ teaspoon ground allspice or nutmeg. Then, after you add the tomatoes, add ½ cup raisins. Serve with ricotta cheese.
Asian Eggplant: Omit the tomatoes, Parmesan, and ricotta. Peel, seed, and cut into ½-inch dice either 4 Kirby cucumbers or 2 medium-size standard cucumbers. Substitute 2 tablespoons each of sesame oil and vegetable oil for the olive oil. In step 5, after you have added the eggplant and garlic, stir in 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, and 1 teaspoon sugar. In step 6, when you toss the pasta with the eggplant, add the cucumbers.
Asian Eggplant Noodle Salad: Cook ½, pound rice or mung bean noodles and let them cool to room temperature. Cut the noodles into 2-inch lengths. Prepare the Asian eggplant (above) and let the sauce cool to room temperature. Toss the sauce with the noodles, and if you like, drizzle the salad with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice or add a sprinkling of minced fresh cilantro.
SECOND TIME AROUND
If you plan to save some of this eggplant dish for the following day, set aside a portion in step 6 and don’t add the cheeses to it. Instead add some olive oil, lemon juice, and fresh parsley to the cheese free leftovers.
PASTA: Thin strands or ribbons
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 25 to 30 minutes
............................
Versatility could be this recipe’s middle name. On its own, it is a perfectly flavorful vegetarian main course. Served in smaller portions, it becomes an ideal side dish to poultry and beef. What’s more, this is just as delicious at room temperature or chilled as it is when eaten hot. This flexibility means the dish is an ideal choice for nights when everyone’s eating at a different time, what I call eating “seriatimly.”
Salt
¼ pound fresh mushrooms, preferably shiitake
2 medium-size carrots
2 cloves garlic
1 quarter-size slice of fresh ginger
½ pound spaghettini or linguine
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably low-sodium
2 tablespoons rice or white wine vinegar
½ cup chicken broth
2 cups (loosely packed) bean sprouts
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, stem the mushrooms (reserve the stems for another use) and thinly slice the caps. Peel the carrots and cut them into ⅛-inch-thick rounds. Peel and mince the garlic and ginger.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 8 minutes.
4. Meanwhile heat the sesame and vegetable oils in a large skillet over high heat. Add the carrots, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry until you can smell the garlic, about 15 seconds. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for a few more seconds, until they are coated with the oil. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, and chicken broth. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 4 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and continue to simmer, uncovered, until they are heated, about 1 minute longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. When the pasta is done, drain it and divide it among four shallow bowls. Top each portion with vegetables and sauce. Serve immediately or at room temperature. Or chill to serve later.
Note: If you know in advance that you are not going to eat the pasta right away, rinse it under cold water and drain it before you add the vegetables and sauce. This keeps the noodles from continuing to cook and becoming too soft.
• Other vegetables that work with these seasonings are peas, asparagus, broccoli, green beans, and carrots.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Any leftovers can be tossed with a dressing made by combining a spoonful of mayonnaise, a tad of lemon juice, a touch of hoisin sauce, a touch of Chinese chili paste. Sliced Kirby cucumbers would be lovely with this salad.
PASTA: Small or medium-size fancy shapes or tubes
MAKES: 6 servings
TIME: 30 minutes
............................
Pasta Primavera is an elegant dish, one that usually consists of linguine tossed with a sauce of minuscule cubed vegetables bound with a touch of tomato and cream. As it is done in restaurants, it takes a lot of work because each vegetable is cooked separately.
In the Monday-to-Friday Cookbook, I offered a simplified version of Pasta Primavera that involved sautéing the vegetables in sequence, beginning with the ones that take the longest to cook and ending with the quicker-cooking ones.
In this book, I am giving more versions of this dish because it is such a superb way to match vegetables with pasta, at any time of the year.
Because the sauce is replete with small pieces of vegetables, I think a short curly pasta is a better choice than linguine. This Pasta Primavera combines fusilli with an abundance of asparagus, that hallmark of spring, along with carrots and corn.
Salt
1 medium-size onion
3 carrots
16 asparagus spears
1 pound short pasta such as fusilli, penne, elbow macaroni, or cavatappi
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup dry white wine
1 can (14½ ounces) crushed tomatoes
1 package (10 ounces) frozen corn kernels, thawed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. Meanwhile, peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and cut the carrots into ¼-inch cubes. Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus stems (about 3 inches from the bottom), and cut the spears into ¼-inch-thick rounds.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
4. While the pasta is cooking, heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine, cover, and simmer over low heat until the vegetables start to become tender, about 3 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add the asparagus, cover, and simmer over medium heat until the asparagus are barely tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Then add the corn kernels, cover, and simmer just until the corn is heated through, about 1 minute.
5. Drain the pasta and toss it with the olive oil in a mixing bowl. Ladle a portion onto each plate, and spoon some vegetables and sauce in the center. (Or return the pasta to the cooking pot, off the heat, and toss it with the oil and sauce until well mixed.) Serve the grated Parmesan on the side.
Herbed Pasta Primavera: In step 2, mince ½ cup (packed) herbs such as dill, basil, or parsley leaves. In step 5, toss the pasta, sauce, and oil with the minced herbs.
Creamy Pasta Primavera (especially good for company): In step 4, after you have added the corn, add either 4 tablespoons butter or ½ cup heavy cream, and simmer the sauce until the butter has melted in or the cream is heated up, about 1 minute. Omit the olive oil in step 5.
Low-Fat Creamy Pasta Primavera: In step 4, after you have added the corn, finish the sauce with ¾ cup evaporated skim milk. Simmer until it is heated through, about 1 minute. Omit the olive oil in step 5.
No-Tomato Pasta Primavera: Omit the crushed tomatoes and substitute 1 cup chicken broth. In step 5, toss the pasta with 2 tablespoons softened butter instead of the olive oil. You could also add ½ cup minced fresh herbs or ½ cup finely diced red bell pepper when you add the butter.
SECOND TIME AROUND
If you’re cooking for two people, cook just enough pasta for two but make the entire amount of vegetable sauce, reserving half of it for the following day. The next day, combine the reserved sauce and some water or chicken broth in a food processor or blender, and create a fresh-tasting vegetable soup in an instant.
PASTA: Fresh ribbons
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 30 minutes
............................
My basic recipe for pasta with summer vegetables is nothing more than a selection of vegetables—cucumbers, radishes, and squash—bound with an uncooked sauce of diced fresh ripe tomatoes, olive oil, and chives. I don’t think this dish needs cheese, but if you want some, crumble in a dry goat cheese, or add a dice of fresh mozzarella to the tomatoes before tossing the noodles with the steamed vegetables.
Although the dice of vegetables is easier to eat when served with short pasta, I prefer the tender chewiness of fresh linguine.
Salt
1 medium-size (8 ounces) zucchini
1 medium-size (8 ounces) yellow squash
4 Kirby or 2 medium-size cucumbers
8 radishes
2 ripe tomatoes
2 small bunches fresh chives or 4 scallions (green onions), with green tops
¼ cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup water
1 pound fresh linguine (green spinach or squid-ink linguine are attractive here)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, cut the zucchini and yellow squash in half lengthwise. Using a small spoon, scrape out the seeds. Cut the squash into ¼-inch dice. Peel, seed, and cut the cucumbers into ¼-inch cubes. Trim the radishes and cut them into cubes.
3. Halve the tomatoes, scoop out the seeds with a spoon, and cut the tomatoes into a fine dice (or blend briefly in a food processor to finely chop them). Place the tomatoes in a large serving bowl. Rinse, pat dry, and mince the chives or finely slice the scallions; add them to the tomatoes along with the olive oil. Season the tomatoes with salt and pepper, and set aside.
4. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 3 to 5 minutes for fresh pasta, longer for dry.
5. Meanwhile, bring the 1 cup water to a boil in a large skillet. Add the diced vegetables, cover, and boil hard until they are barely tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and add them to the tomatoes in the serving bowl.
6. Drain the pasta, add it to the bowl, and toss with the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.
• Vary the vegetables: All you need is about 3 cups of fresh vegetables, cut into small dice so they cook 2 to 3 minutes.
• Change the sauce: Omit the tomatoes and create a sauce with ⅓ cup olive oil mixed with fresh herbs and a splash of lemon juice; or simply mix the herbs with 2 to 3 tablespoons softened plain or seasoned butter (see page 39).
Or thin a couple of tablespoons of pesto or black olive paste with lemon juice. Reserve ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water and add it to the cooked pasta and vegetables to make the ingredients spread more evenly over the pasta.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Leftovers lend themselves to a couple of recycling possibilities. In keeping with the season, it makes sense to create a salad: Toss 2 cups of leftover pasta and vegetables with 2 tablespoons yogurt dressing, curry mayonnaise, or basic vinaigrette. You can add a fresh ingredient or two, such as cooked chick-peas, grilled vegetables, baked ham, smoked turkey, or leftover grilled fish.
Or recycle the leftovers into a soup: Heat 2 cups of leftovers with 1 cup chicken broth and 1 cup tomato or vegetable juice. Presto!
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 30 minutes
............................
This recipe marries pasta with fall vegetables—here, green beans and fresh mushrooms. I love a touch of goat cheese crumbled over the finished dish, but the mix also works well with Parmesan, Romano, and aged Gouda cheeses.
Baked apples, poached pears, or bananas and grapes would be a good dessert choice, in keeping with the fall season.
1 onion
2 red bell peppers
½ pound fresh mushrooms, preferably shiitake or wild mushrooms
¾ pound medium-size shells
¼ cup olive oil
½ pound green beans
10 fresh sage leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried sage
1 cup chicken or vegetable broth
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup dry goat cheese (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, peel and finely chop the onion. Core, seed, and chop the red peppers. Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel, remove the stems (reserve them for another use), and thinly slice the caps.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the onions and peppers, cover, and reduce the heat. Simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. While this is cooking, trim the green beans and cut them into ½-inch pieces. Rinse, pat dry, and mince the sage leaves.
5. Add the chicken broth, mushrooms, green beans, and sage to the skillet. Cover and simmer over low heat until all the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
6. Drain the pasta and portion it out. Ladle some of the vegetables and sauce over each portion, and crumble the goat cheese on top if you wish. Serve immediately.
• Vary this recipe by substituting another vegetable for the green beans—perhaps 1 cup of finely diced Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, or cooked winter squash, such as acorn squash or pumpkin. (You could omit the mushrooms if the sauce feels too vegetable-heavy, but I think they add a characteristic autumnal touch.)
• To turn this into a meal that would also appeal to meat eaters, toss in 1 cup diced smoked turkey, ham, or roasted veal or chicken when you add the green beans. You could even add 1 cup diced fresh seafood, in which case you should substitute clam juice for the chicken broth.
Pasta d’Autunno leftovers, if they have not been tossed with goat cheese, are best recycled as a soup. Combine 2 cups of leftovers with 1 cup chicken broth and 1 cup tomato or vegetable juice. And if you like, add shreds of romaine lettuce, diced meat or poultry, or 1 cup additional sliced mushrooms.
Leftovers with cheese should be placed in a greased casserole, topped with bread crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan cheese, and baked at 350°F until heated through.
PASTA: Thick strands or soba noodles
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
............................
This pasta is plain but supremely satisfying and just right for a cold winter night. The tender sweet cabbage acts as a foil for the luxurious cheeses that envelop the strands of pasta.
Ordinarily I wouldn’t indulge in such a rich sauce. However, the dish just would not taste as terrific with less cheese, so I reserve it for a special occasion or for a frigid night when I feel deserving of something particularly luscious.
Salt
2 onions
1 small head cabbage (1½ pounds)
¾ pound bucatini, perciatelli, spaghetti, or soba
⅓ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
¾ cup water
1 cup ricotta cheese (whole-milk or part-skim)
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, peel and finely chop the onions. Core and thinly slice the cabbage.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 1 minute. Add the cabbage, red pepper flakes, and water. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
5. While the vegetables are cooking, combine the ricotta and Parmesan in a large mixing bowl.
6. Drain the pasta and transfer it to the mixing bowl with the cheeses. Add the vegetables and their juices, and mix the ingredients thoroughly to combine. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.
• To keep this dish seasonal, substitute winter vegetables for the cabbage—such as 2 pints Brussels sprouts, cored and sliced into thin rounds, or 1 pound white turnips, rutabagas, carrots, or parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced or cut into matchstick strips.
• Keep the ricotta, but substitute crumbled feta, Kashkaval, or a dry goat cheese for the Parmesan.
PASTA: Medium-size flat shapes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 35 to 40 minutes
............................
This recipe takes a few more minutes than others in this book because of the potatoes, which add a bit to the cooking time. Here I take the trouble to pit and mince black olives instead of relying on black olive paste because there is precious little other preparation involved. The white wine sharpens the other flavors, but you could substitute 1 or 2 tablespoons cider or white wine vinegar if you prefer.
This is so good and filling that it is plenty for dinner. Still, you might want to complete the meal with a simple dessert. If you plan to make this a side dish, serve it with roasted veal or grilled chicken.
8 small (1 pound) new red potatoes
Salt
½ pound (about 4 cups) bow-ties (farfalle) or orecchiette
4 large romaine lettuce leaves
12 Kalamata or Spanish green olives, or 1 or 2 tablespoons black or green olive paste
3 scallions (green onions)
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup dry white wine
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Scrub the potatoes clean with a vegetable brush; then place them in a medium-size saucepan and cover them with 1 quart of water. (If any of the potatoes are substantially larger than the rest, cut them in half or even quarters.) Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, partially cover the saucepan, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Once the potatoes are cooking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, rinse the lettuce leaves, pat them dry, and cut them crosswise into shreds. Place the shredded romaine in a large mixing bowl. Pit and chop the olives, and add them to the mixing bowl. Trim the scallions and cut them into thin slices. Add them to the mixing bowl along with the Parmesan, olive oil, and white wine. Toss the ingredients together, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Drain the pasta, add it to the other ingredients in the bowl, and mix thoroughly.
5. Drain the potatoes, set them on a cutting board, and carefully (so you don’t burn yourself) cut each one into 8 to 12 chunks. Add these to the pasta, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Serve immediately or at room temperature.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Serve leftovers of this pasta as a salad. To each 2 cups of leftovers add a generous tablespoon of Basic Vinaigrette Dressing (see Index).
PASTA: Fancy strands or short shapes
MAKES: 2 servings
TIME: 20 to 25 minutes
............................
I make this dish only when I’m cooking for two, because who wants to wash volumes of fresh spinach? This recipe just doesn’t work with frozen spinach, so if you are even less inclined than I am to wash gritty greens, you might substitute watercress or romaine lettuce.
I usually serve this as a main course, and I round out the meal with an easy starter such as sliced tomatoes or cucumbers vinaigrette.
Salt
2 bunches (1¼ to 1½ pounds) fresh spinach, mustard greens, turnip greens, kale, broccoli rabe, or Swiss chard
¼ pound fresh mushrooms
2 cloves garlic
1 pound fusilli lunghi, Margherita, short fusilli, or rotini
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons water
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. Stem the spinach, place it in a large bowl, cover it with cold water, and set it aside. Remove the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Peel and mince the garlic. Then swish the spinach around in the water, lift the leaves out of the water, and using your hands, squeeze out the excess moisture. Chop the leaves coarsely.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. About 5 minutes before you think the pasta will be done, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Stir in the mushrooms. Add the water and reduce the heat to medium. Cover the skillet and simmer until the mushrooms are tender, about 2 minutes. Uncover, add the garlic, increase the heat to high again, and sauté just until you get a whiff of the garlic, about 30 seconds.
5. Add half the spinach and stir until it has wilted somewhat, about 15 seconds. Add the remaining spinach and continue to stir until it is wilted but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, season the spinach to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm, covered, off the heat, until the pasta is done.
6. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot, off the heat. Add the spinach mixture and mix thoroughly. Adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately.
Spinach, Pine Nuts, and Raisins with Fusilli: Substitute 2 tablespoons each of pine nuts and currants or raisins for the mushrooms. In step 4, sauté them just to heat, about 1 minute.
Spinach and Feta Cheese with Fusilli: In step 5, mix ¼ pound crumbled feta or dry goat cheese with the pasta and spinach mixture.
Spinach and Anchovy with Fusilli: In step 5, mix 1 tablespoon anchovy paste with the pasta and spinach mixture.
PASTA: Small or medium-size flat or fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 25 to 30 minutes
............................
This would be a terrific selection for a Labor Day picnic because it makes the most of the season’s tomatoes. You can serve this right after it is made, but it will taste even better if you allow it to cool a bit and serve it slightly warm or at room temperature. And it’s fine chilled, the day after the pasta’s been cooked.
Serve this with corn on the cob or steamed zucchini.
Salt
4 large vine-ripened tomatoes (2 to 2½ pounds)
4 cloves garlic
½ cup (packed) fresh basil leaves
1 pound orecchiette, bow-ties (farfelle), or gnocchi pasta
⅓ cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, halve the tomatoes and remove the seeds with a spoon. Finely chop the tomatoes by hand. (Don’t do this in a food processor because it will make them too watery.) Peel and mince the garlic. Rinse, pat dry, and cut the basil leaves crosswise into thin shreds.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 10 to 12 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the garlic and sauté for a few seconds, until it is about to turn golden. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring constantly, to heat them through, about 1 minute. Remove the skillet from the heat, add the basil, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Drain the pasta and toss it with the warm tomato mixture. Cool to room temperature before serving.
With one slight change you can create a dish that is more filling and higher in protein: Use half the amount of pasta. After you have tossed the tomatoes and pasta together in step 5, add ½ pound finely diced fresh mozzarella.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Leftovers are delicious mixed with shreds of fresh romaine lettuce and tossed with Basic Vinaigrette Dressing (see Index).
PASTA: Medium-size ribbons or stuffed pasta
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
............................
The tender bite of the barely cooked zucchini against the silkiness of the white sauce and the crunch of the walnuts makes this dish a study in subtle contrasts. I’d wager that meat eaters will revel in the deliciousness of this pasta dish as much as vegetarians will.
A bracing green salad or a crisp, tangy dice of fresh fruit would be lovely after this filling meal.
Salt
1 pound (2 medium-size) zucchini or yellow squash
4 scallions (green onions)
½ cup shelled walnuts or pecans
¾ pound fettuccine, or 1 pound cheese- or mushroom-stuffed pasta
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups low-fat milk
½ cup raisins, preferably golden
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, rinse the zucchini, trim off the ends, and grate it by hand or in a food processor. Trim and thinly slice the scallions. Finely chop the nuts.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a nonreactive medium-size saucepan over medium heat for a few seconds, until it is bubbly. Add the scallions and sauté for a few seconds; then whisk in the flour. Whisk just until the flour and butter are combined, about 10 seconds, making sure the whisk reaches all around the edge of the saucepan.
5. Slowly add the milk, by tablespoonfuls at first, whisking constantly to make sure the flour paste absorbs the milk without creating lumps. When about 1 cup of milk has been added and you have a smooth mass, you may add the milk at a faster rate, but continue to whisk constantly.
6. When all the milk has been added, increase the heat to bring it just to a boil. Whisk constantly, although not frantically, watching carefully so that the milk does not scorch on the bottom of the saucepan. Add the raisins and zucchini, cover the pan, and simmer over low heat until the zucchini is warmed through but still crunchy, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot, off the heat. Add the zucchini sauce, and toss until well combined. Spoon out the portions, and top each one with some of the chopped nuts.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Leftovers are easily turned into soup by adding 1 can (14½ ounces) stewed tomatoes for each 2 cups of “Delight.”