This section covers just the basics on traveling in Iceland (for much more information, see Rick Steves Iceland). You’ll find free advice on specific topics at www.ricksteves.com/tips.
Icelanders rarely use cash; they pay with plastic even for small purchases such as parking meters and hot dogs. In Iceland, I use my credit card nearly exclusively, for everything from hotel reservations and car rentals to everyday expenses such as meals and sightseeing.
If you need cash, Iceland uses the króna (meaning “crown”; plural krónur): 100 ISK = about $1. To very roughly convert prices in Icelandic krónur to dollars, simply lop off the last two zeros: 2,000 ISK = about $20, 6,000 ISK = about $60. (Check www.oanda.com for the latest exchange rates.)
The standard way for travelers to get krónur is to withdraw money from an ATM (labeled Hraðbanki) using a debit card, ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo. Don’t withdraw more Icelandic currency than you need. Most merchants prefer plastic, and you’ll scramble to spend unused krónur at the end of your trip. To keep your cash, cards, and valuables safe, wear a money belt.
Before departing, call your bank or credit-card company: Confirm that your card(s) will work overseas, ask about international transaction fees, and alert them that you’ll be making withdrawals in Europe. Also ask for the PIN number for your credit card—you may need it for Europe’s “chip-and-PIN” payment machines (see below; allow time for your bank to mail your PIN to you).
Dealing with “Chip and PIN”: Most credit and debit cards now have chips that authenticate and secure transactions. European cardholders insert their chip card into the payment slot, then enter a PIN. (Until recently, most US cards required a signature.) Any American card with a chip will work at Europe’s hotels, restaurants, and shops—although sometimes the clerk may ask for a signature.
Drivers Beware: Note that your US credit and debit cards may not work at some Icelandic gas pumps, even with a chip. Know your credit card’s PIN, and be prepared to move on to another gas station. Especially in rural areas, don’t let your tank get too low. If you have trouble buying gas at the pump, try asking inside the gas station for a prepaid gas card, which you should be able to purchase with any US card.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants or hoteliers offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for krónur.” Always choose the local currency.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible).
To call Iceland from a US or Canadian number: Whether you’re phoning from a landline, your own mobile phone, or a Skype account, you’re making an international call. Dial 011-354 and then the local number. (The 011 is our international access code, and 354 is Iceland’s country code.) If dialing from a mobile phone, you can enter + in place of the international access code—press and hold the 0 key.
To call Iceland from a European country: Dial 00-354 followed by the local number. (The 00 is Europe’s international access code.)
To call within Iceland: Just dial the seven-digit phone number.
To call from Iceland to another country: Dial 00 followed by the country code (for example, 1 for the US or Canada), then the area code and number. If you’re calling European countries whose phone numbers begin with 0, you’ll usually have to omit that 0 when you dial.
Tips: If you bring your own mobile phone, consider signing up for an international plan; most providers offer a global calling plan that cuts the per-minute cost of phone calls and texts, and a flat-fee data plan.
Use Wi-Fi whenever possible. Most hotels and many cafés offer free Wi-Fi, and you’ll likely also find it at tourist information offices (TIs), major museums, and public-transit hubs. With Wi-Fi you make free or inexpensive domestic and international calls via a calling app such as Skype, FaceTime, or Google+ Hangouts. When you can’t find Wi-Fi, you can use your cellular network to connect to the Internet, send texts, or make voice calls. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually switching off “data roaming” or “cellular data.”
Without a mobile device, you can make calls from your hotel and get online using public computers (there’s usually one in your hotel lobby or at local libraries). Most hotels charge a high fee for international calls—ask for rates before you dial. Or you can use a prepaid international phone card (one brand in Iceland is called AtlasFrelsi).
For more on phoning, see www.ricksteves.com/phoning. For a one-hour talk on “Traveling with a Mobile Device,” see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). I recommend reserving rooms in advance, particularly during peak season. Once your dates are set, check the specific price for your preferred stay at several hotels. You can do this either by comparing prices on sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com, or by checking the hotels’ own websites. To get the best deal, contact my family-run hotels directly by phone or email. When you go direct, the owner avoids any third-party commission, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or free breakfast. If you prefer to book online or are considering a hotel chain, it’s to your advantage to use the hotel’s website.
For complicated requests, send an email with the following information: number and type of rooms; number of nights; arrival date; departure date; and any special requests. Use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year. Hoteliers typically ask for your credit-card number as a deposit. In general, hotel prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or travel off-season.
In Iceland, hotels are usually large (big enough for groups), impersonal, and corporate-owned. If you want a more mom-and-pop feeling, look for guesthouses and farmstays. An ample breakfast buffet is generally included.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially in expensive Iceland. Aggregator websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse properties and correspond directly with Icelandic property owners or managers. Of these, Airbnb is definitely the biggest name in the Iceland short-term rental market.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar).
Traditional Icelandic cuisine isn’t too far removed from its Viking Age roots—relying heavily on anything hardy enough to survive the harsh landscape (lamb, potatoes), caught in or near the sea (fish, seabirds), or sturdy enough to withstand winter storage (dried and salted fish). Today’s chefs have built on this heritage, introducing international flavors and new approaches to old-style dishes. In recent years, Reykjavík has emerged as a foodie destination—with both high-end, experimental “New Icelandic” cuisine and a renewed appreciation for the country’s traditional, nose-to-tail “hardship” cuisines. The capital offers a wide variety of dining options, but even in the countryside, you’re never far from a satisfying meal.
Food and drink prices in Iceland are strikingly high, but it is possible to eat well here without going broke. There’s no tipping, taxes are built into prices, and restaurants cheerfully dispense free tap water, making eating out more reasonable than it might seem.
In Reykjavík, lunches are a particularly good value, as many eateries offer the same quality and similar selections for far less than at dinner. Make lunch your main meal, then have a lighter evening meal. Many places offer a lunch special—typically a plate of fish, vegetables, and a starch (rice or potatoes) for 2,000-3,000 ISK. An unlimited soup-and-bread buffet—typically available for less than 2,000 ISK—is another good budget lunch option, commonly offered at cafés, bakeries, touristy rest stops, and other basic eateries.
Picnicking is a good way to stretch a limited budget. Seek out the budget supermarket chains Krónan and Bónus. But be wary of grocery shopping at the omnipresent convenience stores, which are well-stocked but far more expensive.
If you drink alcohol, prices are high, especially for wine and spirits. If you plan to seriously imbibe during your visit, make a point of stopping at the airport duty-free store on your way into the country.
If you’re staying in Reykjavík and plan only a few brief forays outside the city, you can get by without a car. But most visitors find that renting a car gives them maximum flexibility for getting out into the Icelandic countryside—the highlight of any visit to this country. You won’t find convenient public transportation options for reaching some sights (including the Golden Circle); instead you’ll likely need to rely on pricey excursions, or rent a car (often the more cost-effective choice).
By Car: Two people splitting the cost of a rental car and gas will likely save a lot over the cost of bus excursions, while enjoying the flexibility of stopping whenever and wherever they want. It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US. For tips on your insurance options, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw, and for route planning, consult www.viamichelin.com. Bring your driver’s license. Many tourists think of a trip to Iceland as more of an “expedition” than it really is, and shell out for a high-clearance SUV when they would do just fine with a teeny two-wheel-drive car. You won’t need four-wheel drive for the itineraries in this book in summer, or even for a quick winter stopover if you stick to Reykjavík.
Local road etiquette is similar to that in the US. The website www.drive.is has a helpful (if overlong) video with tips for safely navigating the country’s many unpaved roads and one-lane bridges. The Icelandic Road Authority (Vegagerðin) website (www.road.is) shows up-to-date snow, ice, and wind conditions on all the major roads in the country. Visiting this site is a must before setting off on any car trip, even in summer. Ask your car-rental company about the rules of the road or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, select “International Travel,” then “Country Information,” then search for your destination and click “Travel and Transportation”).
By Bus: You can select from a full menu of guided bus tours to get into the countryside. You’ll pay a premium for a guide and a carefully designed experience, but these excursions take the guesswork out of your trip. The dominant operators are Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) and Gray Line (www.grayline.is), while several smaller companies offer a more intimate experience. Guide to Iceland (www.guidetoiceland.is), a consortium of several travel outlets, can be a good one-stop source for tours; they have a desk inside the Reykjavík City Hall’s TI.
Iceland has a good network of scheduled public buses (painted yellow and blue and called strætó), run as a single system by city and local governments (www.straeto.is). Although the Strætó network is more geared to locals than visitors, it can be useful to those traveling from one town to another. However, these buses typically do not connect the big countryside sights (such as Þingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss on the Golden Circle). Reykjavík city buses are part of the Strætó network and use the same tickets and fare structure.
In summer months, several private companies offer direct, regularly scheduled, if still pricey bus transport to many popular outdoor destinations that are otherwise challenging to reach (even by car). Companies to consider include Reykjavík Excursions (under the name Iceland On Your Own, www.ioyo.is), Sterna Travel (www.icelandbybus.is), and Trex (www.trex.is).
Emergency Help: To summon the police or an ambulance, call 112. For passport problems, call the US Embassy in Reykjavík (tel. 595-2200, after-hours line for emergencies only—595-2248, http://is.usembassy.gov) or the Canadian Embassy in Reykjavík (tel. 575-6500, www.canadainternational.gc.ca/iceland-islande).
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see above). Cancel and replace your credit and debit cards by calling these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa: tel. 303/967-1096, MasterCard: tel. 636/722-7111, American Express: tel. 336/393-1111. In Iceland, to make a collect call to the US, dial 00-800-2225-5288; press zero or stay on the line for an operator. File a police report either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
Time: Iceland doesn’t observe Daylight Savings Time (due to its far-north location). In summer, Iceland is one hour behind Great Britain and four/seven hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US. In winter, Iceland is on par with Great Britain and five/eight hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US.
Climate: Summer or winter, be prepared to bundle up (pack gloves, sturdy boots, and a waterproof jacket). While conditions overall are surprisingly moderate for the latitude, frosty temperatures and bone-chilling wind can happen at any time of year.
Holidays and Festivals: Iceland celebrates many holidays, which can close sights and attract crowds (book hotel rooms ahead). For information on holidays and festivals, check Iceland’s tourism website: www.visiticeland.com. For a simple list showing major—though not all—events, see www.ricksteves.com/festivals.
Numbers and Stumblers: What Americans call the second floor of a building is the first floor in Europe. Europeans write dates as day/month/year, so Christmas 2020 is 25/12/20. For measurements, Iceland uses the metric system: A kilogram is 2.2 pounds; a liter is about a quart; and a kilometer is six-tenths of a mile.
This Snapshot guide is excerpted from my latest edition of Rick Steves Iceland, one of many titles in my ever-expanding series of guidebooks on European travel. I also produce a public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, and a public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves. My website, www.ricksteves.com, offers free travel information, a forum for travelers’ comments, guidebook updates, my travel blog, an online travel store, and information on European rail passes and our tours of Europe. If you’re bringing a mobile device on your trip, you can download my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, featuring dozens of self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe and travel interviews about Europe. You can get Rick Steves Audio Europe via Apple’s App Store, Google Play, or the Amazon Appstore. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope.
Tourist Information: www.visiticeland.com
Passports and Red Tape: www.travel.state.gov
Packing List: www.ricksteves.com/packing
Travel Insurance: www.ricksteves.com/insurance
Cheap Flights: www.kayak.com or www.google.com/flights
Airplane Carry-on Restrictions: www.tsa.gov
Updates for This Book: www.ricksteves.com/update
To share your tips, concerns, and discoveries after using this book, please fill out the survey at www.ricksteves.com/feedback. Thanks in advance—it helps a lot.