As much as my apartment balcony may be a great place to urban-farm, I’m pretty sure my landlord (and neighbors, and husband) wouldn’t be happy if I extended that idea to include chickens. The best I can do is to get my eggs at the farmers’ market. There I can actually talk to the farmer who raised the chickens (and even go see them at the farm!). I’m blessed to live in Portland, where my local Saturday market has many egg vendors, including those that sell duck eggs and even quail eggs. If that’s not an option for you, you’ll have to brave the grocery aisle.
I’ve been known to stand in the grocery store for many minutes staring at the egg display. It’s frustrating; some eggs are free-range but come from hundreds of miles away; some are local, but there’s no indication of how the birds were raised. How do you choose?
If possible, I try to buy local, pasture-raised, organic eggs. If I have to compromise, I’ll get local, pasture-raised, nonorganic ones, as many times the lack of organic status is more bureaucratic than anything. Local farmers humanely raising their chickens aren’t likely pumping them full of nasty chemicals. If I can’t find local eggs, then I try to find the closest I can that are still humanely raised. However, don’t put too much faith in claims like “natural”—or even, unfortunately, “cage-free.” Those terms don’t necessarily mean happy chickens.
Brown, white, or blue? It really doesn’t matter! The eggs will all taste the same and have the same nutritional content if the chickens are raised in the same conditions. If the same brand offers both white and brown, there’s really no reason to spend the extra money on the brown.
Eggs are sized by weight. A large chicken egg weighs approximately 2 ounces, with 2 tablespoons white and 1 tablespoon yolk. However, eggs are typically not individually measured, but weighed per dozen, so there may be some size variance in any particular batch. A small difference in egg weight won’t make much difference in most of your cooking, but for the most consistent baking results, you may want to weigh your eggs.
On the large end, jumbo eggs weigh approximately 2.5 ounces each (30 ounces per dozen). Medium eggs (I’ve never seen small eggs in a store) are typically the smallest, about 1.75 ounces per egg (21 ounces per dozen). Most recipes are just fine if you use a different-size egg, but if they call for three or more, you’ll need to make adjustments: use two jumbo or four medium eggs in place of three large ones. All the recipes in this book assume using large eggs, unless otherwise specified.
Typical duck eggs sold at stores are just a little larger than jumbo eggs, so feel free to substitute a jumbo chicken egg in recipes that call for duck eggs. However, since duck eggs are slightly higher in fat and protein, it’s best to use very fresh, free-range chicken eggs in their place.
There’s no great chicken egg substitute for quail eggs, since typically you’ll use them when only a teeny-tiny egg will do. Quail eggs usually weigh about ½ ounce. However, if you do need to substitute a chicken egg, start with the smallest eggs you can find and drain off some of the white by placing the whole egg in a slotted spoon.
The grade of the egg, either AA, A, or B, is not an indication of size, but rather of exterior and interior quality. Inspectors judge the shell by cleanliness, texture, shape, and strength, and examine the interior by backlighting, which shows the size of the air pocket (smaller in higher-quality eggs) and the distinctness of the yolk.
Most eggs you purchase in the store are stamped with a date, but the meaning of that date can vary. USDA eggs are stamped with the date on which the eggs were packed (known as the Julian date, a three-digit code for the day of the year: 001 for January 1, 365 for December 31). This is the date the eggs were washed, graded, and put in the carton, not when they were laid and collected. Non-USDA-graded eggs will be labeled as required by the state, typically also with the Julian date.
Egg cartons may also have a “purchase-by” or “use-by” date. The purchase-by date on USDA eggs must be no more than thirty days after the pack date, while the use-by date must be no more than forty-five days after the pack date. Whether or not your eggs have an expiration date, it’s a good idea to use them within three weeks of the Julian date.
As an egg ages, its air pocket can grow, so you can try floating an egg in a glass of salted water to test its freshness (older eggs will float). However, since air pockets can vary by egg grade and not just egg age, this test isn’t foolproof. The best test is to crack the egg: a slightly cloudy white is a sign the egg is very fresh. A clear egg white is an indication the egg is aging. Easily broken or flat yolks are a sign of older eggs (or of poor nutrition in the hens). They should still be fine to eat but are best used in scrambles or in baking.
The risk of getting a foodborne illness from eggs is quite low, but it does happen. It’s almost impossible for anyone to eat a rotten egg; if you opened one that was bad, you’d know it immediately by its smell.
However, eggs’ moisture and nutrient richness make them a tasty breeding ground for bacteria, so safe handling is important. The bacteria of greatest concern is salmonella, which is found inside about 1 in 20,000 eggs (although it’s more prevalent on eggshells). Refrigerating eggs prevents the bacteria from growing, and cooking them kills the bacteria. But in the very rare case of contamination, or eating undercooked or raw eggs, salmonellosis can occur—and it’s pretty icky. Abdominal cramps, nausea, fever, and other symptoms can start as early as six hours after consuming contaminated food and last for a couple of days. Although salmonellosis is rarely fatal, serious complications can occur in those with delicate or compromised immune systems. And salmonella isn’t the only thing to worry about: eggs can also be infected with other disease organisms, including campylobacter, listeria, yeasts, and molds.
So really, why take chances? Unless of course you’re jonesing for Steak Tartare, as sometimes we all do (see the recipe on this page). If you’re willing to roll the dice and eat an undercooked or raw egg, these tips will minimize (but not eliminate!) your risk of getting sick:
›› Refrigerate your eggs to prevent bacterial growth.
›› Throw away any cracked eggs, even if the crack is small.
›› Avoid eggs from large-scale industrial producers that keep chickens in unsanitary conditions. Sick chickens are more likely to have sick eggs.
Commercially produced U.S. eggs are required to undergo a power-washing process to remove bacteria—which, ironically, can potentially weaken the porous shells and introduce bacteria. Therefore, although most of the world doesn’t refrigerate their eggs, it’s necessary to refrigerate eggs in North America.
If you buy your eggs directly from a farm and they aren’t power-washed, you may be able to store them at room temperature. Ask the farmer what he or she recommends. However, be aware that unwashed eggs may have more bacteria on the shell than those that have been washed. You can give them a bath yourself in warm (not hot) water and a mild, unscented soap. Rinse them in cold water and store them in a clean container (not the same one the unwashed eggs came in).
Cooked eggs should be eaten immediately or be kept refrigerated. Never leave cooked (in the shell or out) eggs out at room temperature for more than an hour.
The best way I’ve found to crack an egg is to hold it by the ends (thumb on the wider end, index finger on the pointy end) and firmly but carefully bang it straight down on a flat surface. The egg will remain intact but have a significant dent. Then use two thumbs to pull the dent apart: the egg should fall right out without any bits of shell falling along with it. Some folks like the one-handed technique. Other than looking a bit fancy, there’s not a whole lot of benefit to it, and I’ve found you’re far more likely to get flecks of shell in your bowl.
To separate the white from the yolk, follow the same steps, but instead of letting the egg fall straight into your bowl, tilt it to the side and let the white ooze out over the top, then move it from shell to shell until most of the white is in the bowl. Don’t get too greedy—it’s better to keep a bit of egg white with the yolk than to accidentally puncture your egg yolk. If you aren’t cooking your whites, it’s better to go ahead and pour them out into your (very clean) hands, letting them fall through your fingers. While this is messier, it minimizes the chance of getting any bacteria from the outside of the shell.
Another egg-separating tip: I always separate my eggs one at a time into small ramekins: yolks in one, white in the other. Then I dump, one at a time, the individual and yolk-free white into the bowl with the other whites. That way, if the last yolk breaks, I don’t end up having to throw out the entire batch of whites!
If you want to get really fancy, try this egg-separating technique that made the rounds on YouTube: hold a small cleaned and dried water bottle with its neck over the yolk of a whole egg, and give it a little squeeze. The yolk will pop right out of the egg white and up into the bottle, where it can be easily squirted out into a separate bowl. Neat!
If you do end up with a bit of shell in the bowl, it’s best not to use your fingers to pull it out, particularly out of the whites. You’ll get a bit of oil into the egg that can slightly change its ability to whip. And although it’s one of the easiest techniques, I don’t recommend using another piece of egg shell to retrieve it, unless you’re cooking your eggs, lest you introduce shell bacteria. Instead, use a clean spoon to fish it out.
There are several different methods for making boiled eggs, but I like steaming them since the eggs are less likely to get jostled around and crack, and are much easier to peel.
Bring a pot of water to a rapid boil over medium-high heat, place your eggs in a vegetable steamer above the water, and cover. Cook 5 minutes for soft-boiled eggs, 8 minutes for medium, and 12 minutes for hard. It’s best to peel the eggs immediately to avoid the yolks turning an icky gray color around the edges, so dunk them immediately into an ice bath until they’re cool enough to handle.
If you don’t have a steamer, try this boiling method: place the eggs in a heavy-bottomed pot and cover them with cold water. Over medium heat, bring the water to a boil. As soon as it boils, turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the eggs continue to cook to the desired doneness: 5 minutes for soft, 8 minutes for medium, 12 minutes for hard.
Living at high altitude? Since water boils at a much lower temperature up there, your eggs will take a bit longer. Let them sit in the just-boiled water 8 minutes for soft, 12 minutes for medium, and 17 minutes for hard. The higher you are, the longer you’ll need to wait. Above 10,000 feet, you’ll need to use a pressure cooker to make hard-boiled eggs.
Contrary to what you might think, slightly older eggs are better for boiling than fresh ones; an egg that is three to five days old will peel much more satisfyingly than one just pulled from the chicken’s nest, whether boiled or steamed.
Unpeeled hard-boiled eggs can be refrigerated (store them as soon as they have cooled) for up to a week.
Use the freshest eggs for frying. Older eggs will have flat yolks that are likely to break while cooking. For the neatest-looking fried eggs, drain off the thinner part of the white by placing the whole egg in a slotted spoon, then place it in a ramekin to pour.
The most delicious sunny-side up egg I’ve found is one that follows the French method of slow cooking in butter. Place 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter (or oil if you prefer) in a well-seasoned carbon steel or cast-iron skillet over low heat, and crack your egg onto a saucer. When the butter has just melted (don’t brown it!), slide in the egg. Cover the skillet and cook the egg for 5 minutes, until the white has set but the yolk is still runny.
Follow the same basic method as for sunny-side up eggs—but you’ll want to make sure the egg doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan, so that it’s easy to flip. You might find it easier to use a non-stick pan. Give the pan a little shake after about 30 seconds to loosen the egg. Once the white closest to the yolk has set, it’s time to flip it. If you want to impress someone, learn this method: lift the skillet a little above the burner, handle toward you. Quickly push the pan away from you, and snap up at the same time—the eggs should do a little back roll. A few tries, and you’ll get the swing of it.
If egg acrobatics aren’t your thing, feel free to use a spatula: push it carefully under about three quarters of the egg, then carefully lift slightly, pull toward you, and roll the egg over. Cook for just another 20 seconds for over easy and up to 2 minutes for over hard.
The basting method of frying requires a bit more fat, but also makes what I think are the best-tasting eggs. Plus it gives you the over-easy look without the scary flip.
Place about ¼ inch of oil in a cast-iron skillet, along with 1 tablespoon butter (or lard or duck fat). Heat over medium-high heat until the butter’s melted and the oil’s just shimmering. Then slide in your eggs. As they cook, use a spoon to push the fat in the pan up on top of the egg white, to help it cook evenly all over. Remove the eggs from the pan when the whites are solid, about 2 to 3 minutes, for a perfectly cooked egg with a runny yolk. For firmer yolks, cook a little longer.
I won’t go so far as to say there’s a right way to scramble eggs. I grew up eating small-curd and slightly dry egg scrambles, but it seems that most folks out there like larger curds and eggs that are rather moist.
For firmer, drier scrambled eggs, lightly whisk them with a fork, then pour them into a lightly oiled pan (nonstick works best, but a well-seasoned carbon steel pan is also good) over medium-low heat. Keep scrambling them with the fork as they cook until they have set.
For super silky eggs, two tools come in handy: an immersion blender and a rubber spatula. Put your eggs in a tall, wide-mouthed jar and pulse them with the blender until they’re very well blended—even a bit foamy. Pour them into a lightly oiled or nonstick pan over medium-low heat. Use the spatula to push the eggs in slow, wide sweeps around the pan’s edge until they’re set. Use this method for quiches or omelets too.
The fresher the eggs, the easier they’ll be to poach.
Start by bringing 4 inches of water to a simmer in a pot over medium heat.
Crack an egg into a ramekin, along with a drop of vinegar (which will help the white contract). For the neatest-looking poached eggs, drain off the thinner part of the white by placing the whole egg in a slotted spoon, then return it to the ramekin.
Now grab a whisk with your stirring hand and the ramekin in the other. Whisk the water in a circle to create a bit of a whirlpool and, in as much of a single movement as you can, remove the whisk and drop the egg into the center. The moving water should push the white around the yolk evenly. Don’t worry if there are a few stray bits floating about.
Cook for 2 minutes, then use a slotted spoon to gently lift the egg and test for doneness. If you like your poached eggs a little firmer, cook for about 4 minutes total.
Remove the egg from the water with a slotted spoon set it on a paper towel for about 1 minute to drain before serving. If you’re making several eggs, make them all up to this point, then reheat them in a pot of warm water for a minute before redraining and serving.
For simple, baked eggs, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F and place ramekins (one per egg), with a bit of butter or oil in the bottom of each, on a baking sheet in the oven for about 3 minutes to warm. Remove the sheet from the oven, add an egg to each ramekin, and bake for about 12 minutes, or until the whites are fully set.
Another technique, coddling, is similar to baking, but instead of putting the eggs in buttered ramekins on a baking sheet, cool and empty ramekins are placed in a heated water bath and baked for about 15 minutes. This approach cooks the egg more evenly, so the whites will be a bit creamier even when fully set.
Both are delicious and easy!
Pickling adds huge flavor to boiled eggs used in salads. To pickle eggs, start by hard-boiling them. You want to make sure they’re completely hard throughout, so don’t shortcut the time. Let the eggs cool completely and peel them.
There are many different brines in which to pickle your eggs. The most basic is a combination of vinegar, water, and salt. Once you’ve got the basics down, start adding aromatics and spices for flavor. Dill, mustard seeds, and whole garlic cloves are a great combination. Curry powder and cumin are also great choices, or try star anise, green onion, ginger, and soy sauce. A wedge or two of red beet immersed in the brine will create the most gorgeous jewel-toned eggs.
Pickled eggs should always be stored in the refrigerator, and any leftover brine should be discarded after 3 months.
