Lucy Mercer of Atlanta, Georgia, says the nice things she received for wedding gifts—crystal, silver, and china—languish unused in storage now. She still likes to entertain, because making people feel comfortable and welcome never goes out of fashion. Mercer seats guests at round tables (for better conversation) on a big, deep porch and offers big bowls and pots of good things, like Seafood Creole, that people can serve themselves to keep it simple for the cook and easy for guests. When company’s coming, Lucy recommends using good-quality Gulf Coast seafood and really taking your time with the roux for the richest, deepest flavor.

SEAFOOD CREOLE

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 large onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 celery stalks, diced

1 medium red bell pepper, diced

½ cup white wine

2 (16-ounce) cans whole tomatoes, undrained

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon paprika

1 dried bay leaf

½ teaspoon dried thyme or 1 teaspoon chopped fresh

¼ teaspoon Creole seasoning (such as Tony Chachère’s)

½ teaspoon hot pepper sauce, or to taste

2 pounds of a combination of mild fish (such as flounder); peeled, deveined shrimp; and bay scallops

4 to 6 cups hot cooked rice

In a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the butter and cook until foamy. Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until dark brown, about 20 minutes. The smell will be like nearly burned buttered popcorn and the color will be like milk chocolate.

Add the onion, garlic, celery, bell pepper, wine, tomatoes with liquid, salt, black pepper, paprika, bay leaf, and thyme. Stir well. Bring to a low boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover and continue simmering until the celery and bell pepper are tender.

Remove the bay leaf. Season to taste with Creole seasoning and hot pepper sauce. Add the fish, shrimp, and scallops, and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes until the fish is opaque and shrimp are pink. Remember that the seafood will continue to cook after being removed from the heat from the residual heat of the stew. Serve over a bed of hot rice.

97814016054_0011_005.jpg Makes 6 to 8 servings

Note: When the vegetables are tender, you can continue cooking the base, either on the stovetop or covered in a 300-degree oven. Check frequently to make sure the liquid level doesn’t get too low. Remove the bay leaf and add the Creole seasoning, hot pepper sauce, fish, shrimp and scallops 3 to 5 minutes before serving time.