A burger isn’t a burger without the fries or onion rings. But the sides don’t have to be deep-fried. If you’ve never had fries or rings baked from scratch, you’ll most likely be shocked by the fresh taste and incredible texture of these creations. And in my opinion, if these don’t stop your cravings, nothing will.
What Goes Into the Perfect Fries?
Russet Potatoes
Also known as baking potatoes, these spuds are the best variety to use for all of the french fries recipes in this book, not only because their large, uniform size makes for easier cutting, but also because they contain just the right amount of starch to yield a nice, fluffy fry every time. Waxy or creamy potatoes (like Yukon Gold and Red Bliss) are delicious in their own right but better used in mashed potatoes and potato salad.
A Perfectly Crisp Exterior
Personally, I love soft fries. But I know many people don’t think fries are fries unless they’re crisp. Restaurants often double-fry them: The first frying releases the moisture from the potatoes, and the second frying makes them nice and crisp just before serving. (That’s also the secret behind many of the frozen fries available at the grocery store—even if you bake them at home, they’re not likely to be as low in fat as the recipes in this chapter, because they’ve been fried before freezing.)
However, I’m pleased to report that it is possible to re-create the crispness of a perfectly fried fry (with far less fat) by boiling them for a few minutes before baking them. Just like that first frying step that restaurants use, boiling gives the potatoes a head start in the cooking process and releases some of the water, which helps them crisp during baking. Just be careful you don’t boil them too long, or they’ll break before you ever have a chance to get them on the baking sheet. If you, like me, prefer soft fries, you can skip the boiling altogether and simply bake them.
Olive Oil
The key to baked fries (fries without a lot of spices, anyway) is the olive oil. It’s important to use a high-quality extra virgin olive oil with a strong flavor in these recipes. If you do, you’ll be surprised that even the small amounts used here will mimic a subtle oil taste on the finished fries. Because good oils are relatively expensive, it’s often worthwhile to visit a specialty cooking store or health food store that serves samples—it’s a great way to find one you love.
If you find that your fries burn before they’re crisp, the problem could be one of two things.
1. You may be using a dark baking sheet. If you use one with a black surface, you’ll need to reduce the oven temperature by 25°F.
2. Your oven temperature might be off. Try reducing the temperature by 50°F if your fries are burning before crisping or increasing it by 50°F if they’re never crisping. With a little bit of experimentation, you’re bound to find the equation for creating the perfect fries at home time after time.
What Goes Into the Perfect Onion Rings?
A Perfect Coat of Breading
Unlike chicken, fish, etc., onions are relatively dry and nonporous, making them one of the toughest items to bread . . . unless you’re aware of the pitfalls. To ensure that the breading sticks, it’s best to dip the rings directly into the egg, skipping the flour step that’s called for in most of the chicken and fish recipes in this book. Also, it’s best to put the egg in a bowl that is just larger in diameter than the biggest ring you need to coat. This way, you’ll be able to dunk it without using a ton of egg, which will help in keeping it coated.
I’ve found through plenty of trial and error that after shaking the onion rings in a bag of crumbs, the best way to remove them is with a clean, dry fork (if you touch them with your fingers or a fork that already has a lot of egg and bread crumbs stuck to it, it will cause the bread crumbs to fall off). And keep in mind that though the recipes call for specific amounts of egg and bread crumbs, you may find breading easier if you use more.
In the front of this book, I have made promises to you. One of those promises is that the serving sizes will be at least as large as those of the originals. If you were to look at the recipes in this chapter side by side with the originals, you would see that they look the same. However, if you were to weigh them, too, you’d find mine would be lighter. That’s because the oil has weight. Though you’ll be consuming about the same amounts of carbohydrates, and the fries will stack up the same on your plate, I’m pleased to report that the fat and calories will be seriously reduced.