Basics

Balsamic vinaigrette

Place 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, 1 tablespoon chopped basil, 1 tablespoon water, a pinch of caster (superfine) sugar and 1 teaspoon dijon mustard in a mini food processor and pulse until blended. This dressing is especially good with tomatoes and roasted Mediterranean vegetables. For variation, you could also add a whisper of garlic before blending. Makes about 120ml (4floz).

Gomashio

Toast 3 tablespoons sea salt in a dry frying pan, stirring often, until it turns grey. Tip into a pestle and mortar, food processor or spice grinder. Toast 400g (14oz) sesame seeds in the same pan until they smell fragrant. Grind the salt and seeds together, by hand or by machine, until broken down but not too smooth or the mixture will become oily. Store in a tightly sealed jar and use within 2 months. Makes 1 large jar.

Vegetable stock

Heat 1 tablespoon sunflower oil in a large saucepan. Slowly brown 2 large sliced carrots and 2 large sliced onions, stirring, for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are golden and caramelised. Add 10 sliced celery sticks, 4 sliced silverbeet (Swiss chard) stalks, 6 bruised garlic cloves, 60g (2¼oz) brown lentils, 3 bay leaves, a small bunch of parsley stalks, 1 teaspoon sea salt and 1 teaspoon peppercorns. Pour in 2 litres (70floz) cold water, bring to a simmer and bubble gently for 1 hour. Strain and discard the vegetables. Return the stock to the pan on the heat and reduce to the desired strength. Makes about 1.8 litres (62floz).

Mayonnaise

Blend or beat 2 egg yolks with 1 teaspoon dijon mustard and a generous seasoning of salt and pepper. As you blend or beat, start to add 275ml (9½floz) very mild olive oil, drop by slow drop. Increase the drops to a thin trickle as you continue to blend. Add half the oil then beat in a good squeeze of lemon juice. Continue adding the oil as before until it has all gone and the mayonnaise is thick and glossy. Taste and add a touch more salt, pepper or lemon juice if needed. To make herb mayonnaise, stir in 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs at the end. To make aïoli, crush 2–3 large garlic cloves and add them with the egg yolks. Makes 250g (9oz).

Pesto

Roughly chop 1 large garlic clove and add it to a food processor with 60g (2¼oz) pine nuts, a large handful of basil leaves and a pinch of sea salt. Pulse together, scraping down the sides now and then. Add 70g (2½oz) finely grated parmesan cheese and drizzle in 100ml (3½floz) extra virgin olive oil until blended. To make parsley, rocket (arugula) or watercress pesto, replace the basil with your herb of choice and swap the pine nuts with roughly chopped, blanched almonds. To make sun-dried tomato pesto, simply add 5 drained and chopped sun-dried tomato halves with the basil. To make vegan pesto, omit the cheese and increase the pine nuts or almonds to 3 tablespoons. Makes 1 jar.

Sweet lemon dressing

Combine 90ml (3floz) olive oil, 1 tablespoon mild honey, the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon wholegrain mustard and ½ crushed garlic clove in a screw-top jar with salt and pepper. Shake until thoroughly blended. Robust leaves – witlof (chicory), radicchio, watercress and rocket (arugula) – all bring out the best in this dressing. If you’d rather use a milder leaf, replace the honey with 2 tablespoons finely grated parmesan cheese to pep it up and balance the flavours. Makes about 100ml (3½floz).

Blender hollandaise

Melt 120g (4¼oz) butter in a small saucepan. Whizz 2 egg yolks in a small blender with 2 tablespoons boiling water and season with a pinch of salt and a little pepper. With the motor on, very gradually trickle in the hot butter until a thick sauce forms. Add a couple of tablespoons of lemon juice and blend again. Taste and add a little more lemon or seasoning before serving if needed.

Fig tapenade

Place 100g (3½oz) chopped dried figs in a pan with 100ml (3½floz) water and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring, until tender. Remove from the heat and cool. Use a pestle and mortar or food processor to crush the figs and liquid with 150g (5½oz) pitted kalamata olives, ½ garlic clove, 2 tablespoons thyme leaves, 2 tablespoons rinsed and drained capers and a twist of black pepper. Pulse and loosen with extra virgin olive oil.

Gorgonzola sauce

Fry 2 finely chopped French shallots in a little butter until translucent. Add 150g (5½oz) chopped gorgonzola or roquefort cheese and stir gently until the cheese has melted. Stir in 100ml (3½floz) thick (double) cream and mix well. Season with black pepper. A little finely chopped parsley stirred in at the end makes a nice addition. Delicious stirred through pasta.

Walnut tarator

Pulse 200g (7oz) shelled walnuts in a food processor with 1 large crushed garlic clove and a good pinch of salt until quite finely ground. Gradually pour in 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 100ml (3½floz) water and 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil as you process again to form a creamy but not completely smooth sauce. This Turkish sauce is a bit like a nut pesto and is wonderful with roasted or grilled vegetables.

Béchamel sauce

Pour 1 litre (35floz) milk into a pan and add 1 small peeled and halved onion, 10 black peppercorns and 2 bay leaves. Bring to the boil then remove from the heat and infuse for 20 minutes or so. Melt 60g (2¼oz) butter in a pan and add 60g (2¼oz) plain (all-purpose) flour, stirring until a smooth paste forms. Cook gently for a minute or so, stirring, then gradually whisk in the strained milk, beating constantly. When all of the milk has been incorporated, bring to the boil then reduce the heat and gently simmer for a couple of minutes. Season and add a generous grating of nutmeg. Cover to prevent a skin from forming and set aside to cool.

Best tomato sauce

Peel and halve 1 small onion and lightly bash a whole, peeled garlic clove. Place in a saucepan with 2 x 400g (14oz) tins of good-quality roma (plum) tomatoes and 75g (2½oz) butter or 75ml (2¼oz) extra virgin olive oil. Place over a very gentle heat and slowly simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 40–50 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and discard the onion before using. The garlic will have melted away.

Horseradish dressing

Whisk 4 tablespoons walnut oil, 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh horseradish (or more to taste), the juice of 1 lemon and a pinch of caster (superfine) sugar together with 2 tablespoons cold water to loosen. Season to taste with salt and pepper. This is strictly for robustly flavoured vegetables and leaves, as it takes a certain strength to stand up to peppery horseradish. Makes 120ml (4floz).

Slow-roasted tomato sauce

Put 300g (10½oz) slow-roasted tomatoes in a food processor or blender with 500g (1lb2oz) tomato passata, a small handful of basil leaves and 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and blend until almost smooth. This is a deep and intense sauce that can be made almost instantly if you have a batch of slow-roasted tomatoes to hand. Add chopped red chilli or crushed garlic before blending for extra flavour. Makes about 720g (1lb9oz).

Salsa verde dressing

Chop 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley and ½ small bunch mint and place in a small bowl. Add 75ml (2¼floz) extra virgin olive oil or enough to cover the herbs. Crush 1 large garlic clove and stir into the herb mixture along with 2 tablespoons chopped capers, 1½ tablespoons dijon mustard and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. The sauce should have a spoonable consistency so add more olive oil if needed. Makes about 200ml (7floz).

Satay sauce

Gently fry 1 chopped garlic clove, 2 roughly chopped French shallots and 1–2 roughly chopped red chillies in 1 tablespoon peanut oil until soft but not coloured. Add 2 teaspoons caster (superfine) sugar and 150g (5½oz) toasted and roughly chopped peanuts and cook for 2 minutes until caramelised. Stir in 1 tablespoon soy sauce and 400 ml (14floz) coconut milk and simmer for 5 minutes. Keep the texture chunky, or blend briefly in a food processor. Add the juice of 1 lime and season with a little extra soy sauce if needed. Satay sauce will keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks or more. Makes about 500ml (17floz).

Chermoula dressing

Put 1 small bunch coriander (cilantro) and 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley in a food processor. Add 1 tablespoon toasted cumin seeds, 75ml (2¼floz) extra virgin olive oil, the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 teaspoon ras el hanout, ½ teaspoon paprika and ½ teaspoon salt. Pulse until finely chopped, adding a little more olive oil if it seems too thick. Season with black pepper. Keep covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Makes 1 jar.

Ginger and lime dipping sauce

Pour 3 tablespoons boiling water into a heatproof bowl and stir in 1½ tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar until dissolved. Finely chop a 4cm (1½in) piece fresh ginger and 1 large garlic clove and add to the bowl along with 1 seeded and finely chopped red chilli (optional), the juice of ½ lime, 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar and 2 tablespoons vegetarian fish sauce or soy sauce. Mix well and leave to stand for a few minutes before using. Makes 100ml (3½floz).