White asparagus with Champagne beurre blanc

White asparagus is grown in darkness below the soil surface to keep it blanched of colour, and the resulting spears are delicately flavoured. Some people add sugar to the cooking water to prevent bitterness, but simmering the asparagus in diluted milk has the same effect without the sweetness.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES

COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

20 white asparagus spears, about 600g (1lb5oz), trimmed

200ml (7floz) milk

15g (½oz) butter

For the beurre blanc

1 French shallot, finely chopped

4 black peppercorns

1 tarragon sprig

175ml (5½floz) Champagne or dry white wine

175g (6oz) butter, chilled and cubed

Start by making the beurre blanc reduction. Place the shallot, peppercorns, tarragon and Champagne or dry white wine in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer the liquid down slowly for a few minutes until reduced by two-thirds. Strain through a sieve into a heatproof bowl.

Carefully pare away the skin from the asparagus stalks (but not the tips) using a vegetable peeler, treating them gently so the spears don’t snap.

Using a frying pan large enough to hold the asparagus in a single layer, lay the spears out flat. Add the milk and 15g (½oz) butter with 200ml (7floz) water to cover the asparagus. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10–12 minutes, turning the spears over occasionally until they are tender. The cooking time will depend on how thick the spears are. Set aside in the pan.

Meanwhile, set the heatproof bowl containing the Champagne reduction over a pan of barely simmering water, being careful not to let the bowl come into contact with the water. Whisk in the cubes of butter, one by one, until emulsified into a smooth sauce. Season with a little salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat but leave the bowl over the pan to keep warm, stirring every now and then. The sauce will last for 10 minutes or so like this but any longer and it might split.

Serve the warm sauce spooned over the drained asparagus.